camera olympus trip 100

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Olympus Trip 100

Brand: Olympus
Name: Olympus Trip 100
Type: Snapshot camera
Type of Film: 35mm
Focal length: 35 mm
Maximum aperture: -
Focus: Fixed
Flash / Flash connection: Built-in flash
Release date: 1992
Age: Up to 32 years

The Olympus Trip 100 is a compact camera developed by Olympus for spontaneous photography. Its simple operating concept makes it ideal for newcomers to photography. It is characterised by its black plastic housing, manufactured in Malaysia.

Unlike many other compact cameras, the Trip 100 has a built-in lens, which makes it stand out from the crowd. A simple sliding door not only serves as protection for the lens, but also activates the camera when it is opened.

The fixed focal length of the lens is 35 mm, ideal for everyday use and spontaneous shots without the option of a zoom. The camera is “Focus Free”, which means that the focus cannot be adjusted.

However, the film speed can be adjusted. There is a slider on the underside for ISO 100/200 and ISO 400.

There is of course a built-in flash. There is no connection for a tripod on this camera, but there is a device for attaching a camera strap.

The Olympus Trip 100 does not offer a self-timer.

Power is supplied by two AA batteries ( eBay / Amazon * ), which also operate the automatic film transport.

Instead of a display, the model has a frame counter at the top and a small window at the back through which the inserted film can be seen.

Films for the Olympus Trip 100

The Olympus Trip 100 was designed for use with 35mm film, as described in its manual. The enduring popularity of the 35mm film format ensures that it continues to be offered by numerous producers.

Films such as the Ilford Delta 400 * for outstanding black and white photos and the Kodak Portra 400 * for vibrant colour images are available from many online suppliers. A wide range of film material is available for this format.

The colour film used is a negative film that is developed using the C-41 process. This development process is offered by the majority of photo labs, which means that development is possible in most drugstores.

The image format of the camera measures 24 mm x 36 mm, typically one roll of film can take around 36 pictures. After each shot, the camera automatically advances the film and rewinds it at the end of the film. Manual rewinding is possible using a switch.

Technical datasheet

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Olympus Trip 100

Edit source

The Trip 100 was a very basic 35mm compact camera , with motor drive and manufactured by Olympus in 1992. It was one of a series of cheap fixed focus models branded Olympus Trip . The original price was ¥17,000 (including the case and strap).

Specifications [ ]

Integral auto-flash
Integral sliding lens cover

Trip 100 in the Olympus Global History.

How To Use The Olympus Trip

April 28, 2023 By Cameras By Max

The Olympus Trip is a super popular camera among beginners to film, so here is our guide on how to use this awesome little camera, and some tips on how to get the most out of your Olympus Trip.

Olympus Trip 35mm film camera in wood covering in front of a plant

What is the Olympus Trip?

The Olympus Trip 35 was introduced in 1967, and discontinued in 1984, which is considered a long production run for a 35mm film camera. Over ten million Olympus Trip cameras were sold in this time.

Many people wrongly call the Olympus Trip a rangefinder camera, however we would classify it more as a point and shoot with zone focusing.

What features does the Olympus Trip have?

The Olympus Trip is really easy to use, and has some cool features that set it apart from other point and shoot 35mm film cameras.

Zuiko coated 40mm f/2.8 lens : this lens is sharp, and the wide aperture makes it versatile in a lot of situations.
Automatic settings : the Olympus Trip has two shutter speeds and aperture from f/2.8 to f/22.
No batteries needed : the Olympus Trip is powered by the selenium meter around the lens. This is also what receives light and tells the camera which aperture is needed.
Red flag feature : when the camera does not have enough light to take a photograph, a red flag appears in the viewfinder.
Zone focusing : the Olympus Trip has four focus settings depending on how far away your subject is from the camera.

What are the different parts of the Olympus Trip?

The top plate.

The Olympus Trip top plate is very simple. The camera features are easy to find, making it an ideal camera for beginners. Below is a labelled diagram of the camera.

Olympus Trip 35 35mm film camera top plate nomenclature

On the left of the top plate is the rewind knob (more on that later). In the middle is the flash hotshoe, used for mounting hotshoe flashes to the camera. The shutter button is the small black button on the top. On some models of Olympus Trip, this button can be silver. The small panel on the right is the shot counter that displays the number of shots you have taken.

The Olympus Trip lens holds most of the key settings for the camera , such as the ASA, focus, and aperture.

The ASA dial is set to match the roll of film that you put in the camera. For example, if you are using Portra 400, the ASA setting is set to 400.

The focus settings are simple, and known as zone focusing. There are four zones to choose from. We go through them in more depth later on in this article.

The aperture settings are only used if you are using flash. Otherwise, the camera is set to "A", which allows the camera to choose the aperture and shutter speed automatically.

The Bottom Plate

There is only one function on the bottom plate of the Olympus Trip 35: the rewind button. (And the tripod mount, technically.)

Rewind button on the bottom of the Olympus Trip 35mm film camera

The rewind button is pressed when you are ready to start rewinding your film.

How To Load Film In The Olympus Trip

Loading film takes some practice, but it is really easy when you get to grips with it.

To load a roll of film in the Olympus Trip, first you have to open the back of the camera. To open the back of the camera, pull down this small silver tab, shown below.

How to open the back of the Olympus Trip camera

Once you have the back of the camera open, you can load your roll of film. To load the roll of film, pull the rewind knob up. The roll of film goes in with the top of the canister (the part that sticks out) at the bottom of the camera. See the image below.

When the canister is in, as shown above, you can pull the film leader across the camera to reach the other side.

Pull the film leader across the length of the camera

The rewind knob being put back down will lock the canister in place as you pull the film across. In order to lock the film onto the film spool in the camera, it has to go partly into one of the slots, and the notches at the bottom of the spool have to go through the sprockets on the film (the holes).

In order to be able to advance the film across the camera, you have to fire the shutter . You can do this by pointing it at a bright light or by setting the aperture setting to one of the numbers.

I recommend firing the shutter, and advancing the film (with the advance thumb wheel) twice before closing the back, so that you can make sure the film is definitely loaded correctly. As you get more confident, you can fire the shutter less times and therefore get more photos on your roll of film.

How To Take Photos With The Olympus Trip

Now you have loaded your roll of film, and closed the back of the camera, you are ready to start taking photos!

The first thing to check is that your ASA is set to the same speed as your roll of film. For example, Portra 400 is ASA 400. Or Kodak Gold is ASA 200.

Close-up of the Olympus Trip 35mm film camera ASA dial

When looking through the viewfinder, you will be able to see your frame lines, and the focus setting that the camera is set to. The viewfinder of the Olympus Trip does not show you where the focus is set, just which symbol you have the lens set to.

View through the viewfinder of Olympus Trip 35mm film camera

When the lens is set to "A", the camera will choose the shutter speed and aperture for you manually. If the image you are trying to take is too dark, the red flag will come up.

You can override this by setting it to one of the numbers instead, but be aware that these are intended for a flash to be used with it. By setting the Olympus Trip to a number on the lens, it reduces the shutter speed to 1/30 - that's one thirtieth of a second. So you will need to have a steady hand when doing so.

How does the film counter on the Olympus Trip work?

When you first load your roll of film, it may look as though the film counter is not moving. It takes two or three shots for the shot counter to move to the number one.

The back of the camera needs to be closed in order for the shot counter to start working.

The counter shows the amount of images you have taken, not how many you have left.

How do I focus the Olympus Trip 35?

The Olympus Trip focus settings are simple, but take some getting used to. There are four settings on the camera. The symbols for these are found on the black part of the lens, as shown earlier in the article.

The symbols are as follows:

Symbols for the Olympus Trip 35 focus settings

The Olympus Trip has four focus settings . The viewfinder view does not change as you change the focus settings, so you need to know which setting is correct for how far away your subject is. Luckily, this is not hard.

The first setting has the symbol of one person. The first setting is used for close-up photographs , where the subject is less than 1 metre away.

The second setting is of two people, which is to be used for subjects from 1.5 to 3 metres away.

The third setting is a symbol of three people. This setting is used for subjects that are between 3 and 6 metres away.

The final setting is a symbol of a mountain, which is used for anything beyond 6 metres away.

If you ever forget these numbers, they are engraved on the underside of the lens (opposite to the symbols on the top).

How does the Olympus Trip 35 red flag feature work?

The purpose of this Olympus Trip feature is to stop you from taking a photograph that is not exposed enough and therefore will not be visible when developed.

When there is not enough light in your image, the red flag will pop up in the viewfinder. You will clearly be able to see it if you are looking through the viewfinder. It also blocks the shutter button from being pressed.

Red flag feature inside the Olympus Trip viewfinder

Can I use the Olympus Trip at night?

Yes, you can.

The easiest way to do this is to attach a flash to the top of the camera.

Attaching a flash to the top of the camera is easy and most flashes can be used on the Olympus Trip. It has a standard flash hotshoe on the top of the camera.

Here is an example of a flash that can be used on the Olympus Trip:

When using a flash on the Olympus Trip, there are different settings to use. These are the aperture numbers on the silver barrel of the lens closest to the camera.

The aperture you use needs to be read off of the meter table, which is usually displayed on the back of the flash unit.

How to use a flash on the Olympus Trip 35

You can read more about using the Olympus Trip at night here .

How To Rewind Your Film

Congratulations, you've finished your roll of film.

How can I tell if the roll of film is finished?

You will start to feel some resistance when trying to advance the camera. Do not force it, as you will snap part of the mechanism.

If you are using a 24 exposure roll of film, you will have reached the 24th shot. The shot counter should show the number 24, or near to that number. The same applies for a 36 exposure roll of film, as this will show the number 36. Sometimes you are lucky and get 37 or 38 shots out of a roll of film.

When the film will not advance any more, the film is finished.

How do I take the roll of film out?

On the bottom of the camera is your rewind button. Push this button in. It should stay in after you have pressed it once.

You can now use the rewind knob to rewind the film into the canister. Turn the knob clockwise.

Using the Olympus Trip 35 rewind knob to rewind film

Rewinding the film usually takes around thirty seconds of rewinding. You will feel when the film comes off of the spool at the end, because the rewind knob will have less resistance. Keep rewinding it until you feel certain that the film is back inside the canister.

You can now open the back and take the film out.

Back of the Olympus Trip 35mm film camera

That's just about everything you need to know about the Olympus Trip 35 35mm film camera! We really recommend this camera for beginners, so we hope you have a great time using it and create some lovely images.

I think my Olympus Trip is broken; what should I do?

A lot of Olympus Trip 35mm film cameras have never been serviced in their lifetime. Because they are holiday cameras, a lot of them have sand in the mechanisms.

We highly recommend getting your Olympus Trip serviced if it hasn't been used in a while.

Maintained, these cameras can last many years, however when they have been left for decades, they can develop a few issues, such as stuck aperture blades, stuck shutter, non-functioning light meter, etc.

All of our Olympus Trip services and repairs are very affordable, so definitely consider sending it to us before deciding that it doesn't work, or putting it back in a drawer.

Shop our full range of Olympus Trips and accessories here:

Find out more about the olympus trip here:.

Different colours of Olympus Trip cameras

Featured Camera: The Olympus Trip 35

Can You Use the Olympus Trip At Night?

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Article written by: Max

Max is the owner of Cameras By Max. They work full-time repairing and refurbishing all the 35mm film cameras you see on the website. Their favourite camera (at the moment) is the Olympus XA, and their favourite city in the world is Edinburgh.

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Vintage Refurbished [ℹ]

Olympus trip 100 35mm point and shoot film camera.

This Olympus Trip 100 35mm camera is a great choice for aspiring film photographers and camera connoisseurs alike.

This camera is tested and working, and a full CLA has been performed. These images are of the exact camera you will receive. Please view all photos for an accurate depiction of the camera's condition.

Their perfect blend of form and function may be ageless, but to make sure everything works like new, the team at Retrospekt carefully refurbishes every camera by hand from the inside out. Each camera is cleaned, serviced and tested to ensure complete functionality for another lifetime of use.

This is an authentic vintage piece guaranteed to work.

This camera has experienced decades of life before finding its way to Retrospekt. As such, it will show some signs of past use. However, we are extremely picky about the condition of the cameras we restore and the parts we select for the repair process. The end result is an excellent vintage restoration that is guaranteed to work properly. Should any questions arise, we have a team of friendly people ready to help you.

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Olympus Trip 100

35mm f/4.5 Olympus Lens
Automatic Film Advance Motor Winder
Built In Flash with Manual Control
Automatic Focusing/Exposing

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Olympus : Trip 100

1992-1993. 35mm compact camera.

35mm Lenses
Camera Reviews
Point and Shoot

Olympus Trip 35 – Camera Review

Josh solomon.

October 3, 2016

As enthralling as photography can be, long days, months, and years spent shooting can wear you out. In the worst case, it can lead to a photographic malaise that can dismantle even the most well-built minds from the inside out. It can render the best shooters incapable of even the simple task of pressing a shutter button. It’s shooter’s block, our equivalent to writer’s block, and it hit me hard over the summer.

I jumped out of bed one morning full of energy, ready to take on the world with my trusty Nikon F and Leica M2. But instead of plunging into a world filled with beauty, intrigue, and possibility, I found my surroundings cold, ugly, and indifferent. The images I tried to form seemed trite and overplayed, and I soon lost confidence in my ability to make a decent picture. Even the storied reputations of my F and M2 failed to inspire me. Every time I peered through their viewfinders I saw nothing but dust in the pentaprism and emptiness between the framelines.

Sufficiently depressed, I decided to stay home and put my cameras on the shelf. And it was while I was lying face down on a pillow listening to the opening lines of Chicago’s “Hard To Say I’m Sorry” that I realized I did, in fact, need a little time away. But I didn’t need a full-on vacation from the hobby itself – no, that would be too drastic. I just needed a change from the manual cameras that sat on my shelf. I needed an easier camera, and I had a feeling one camera in particular could fit the bill – the Olympus Trip 35.

The Olympus Trip 35 is a camera I’d heard a lot about but had never tried myself. Its reputation for ease of use and high quality seemed the perfect cure for my shooter’s block. And if the Trip 35 was the prescription, the Pasadena Camera Show was the pharmacy. There I found a beautiful Trip 35 for an absurdly low price, bought it, and quickly threw it in my bag.

One would think the Olympus Trip 35 would seem out of place next to legendary cameras like the aforementioned Nikon and Leica, but it actually fits right in. This camera, although not as capable as the other two, holds an equally lofty place in photographic history. Just as the F and the M defined the SLR and rangefinder genres respectively, the Trip 35 defined the point-and-shoot game. More impressive still, the Trip 35 actually outsold the Nikon F and the Leica M2 by millions. Take that, fanboys.

Olympus achieved these massive numbers by appealing to the casual shooter rather than pro photographers, specifically focusing on the new generation of moneyed vacationers. Racing from landmark to landmark and airport to airport, these sightseers simply lacked the time and interest needed to learn the boring particulars of photography required to operate a camera. Instead, they required a camera that was simple to use, but sophisticated enough to beautifully capture their memories.

Good design marries aesthetics to functionality, and the the camera gods couldn’t have picked a better company to bring the Trip 35 to life. Olympus’ design house, fresh off the ingenious half-frame Pen F, struck gold again with the Trip. The design is classic Olympus; clean-cut lines and an impossibly small form factor, the Trip wastes no time and gets straight to the point. It’s as well designed as any machine of its day, more impactful when we recall that the Trip came of age in an era where cameras were still fully mechanical, save for the occasional battery powered light meter. Automation seemed a distant (and expensive) fantasy, so when Olympus created a genuine auto-exposure camera out of primitive nuts and bolts, the world took notice. This was in no uncertain terms an engineering miracle.

The Trip 35 accomplishes this sorcery by determining the amount of light that enters a Selenium photo cell surrounding the lens, and choosing a correct aperture based on this reading. The camera then chooses a shutter speed of either a 1/200th or 1/40th of a second and we get a perfect exposure. When the camera’s incapable of making an acceptable exposure, a little red flag shows up in the viewfinder and the shutter locks out. The magic of this system is that it takes all exposure-related worry out of our minds. We don’t have to agonize about aperture, shutter speed, or even battery life, a godsend for vacationers and anxious photo geeks.

But before we experience it, it’s quite easy to question the Trip 35’s simplicity. After all, how accurate could a camera this old and primitive be? And could the lens be good enough for our 21st century eyes? As I drove home from the camera show, my new Trip in the passenger seat next to me, these questions rolled through my mind. I really needed this camera to be decent, if I was to pull out of my photographic death spiral.

Just then, I received a text message from my sister. Can you pick up some pork buns in chinatown? thx. With this, I had my mission; buy some pork buns, shoot the Trip, and see if this ancient camera could walk the walk.

The first thing I noticed was its build quality. Comprised of metal and plastic, the Trip 35 is solid, but never heavy; lightweight, but never flimsy. The only disappointing aspect of the camera’s feel is its film advance wheel. A dinky plastic affair reminiscent of disposable cameras, this lackluster cog is forgivable when we remember that the Trip was built to be a consumer-level camera.

Peering through the viewfinder showed bright frame-lines with tick marks both for up-close shots and for landscape shots. These are helpful in view of the Trip’s lack of automatic parallax correction. Having used fancy Leica , Nikon , and Contax rangefinders renowned for brightness and clarity, the Trip’s viewfinder beats most of them. Its relative simplicity is a nice change from the cluttered and overly complex viewfinders of other machines. The Trip 35 also features a small window in the bottom right of the VF (affectionately dubbed the “Judas Window” by Trip 35 disciples) which shows both the chosen aperture and exposure setting on the camera.

So far, so good. But how was I to determine focus? I quickly realized that the Trip’s a scale-focus camera, which is not ideal for accuracy. But before I started feeling like Olympus left me all alone and helpless, I realized that they were kind enough to provide some handy distance-measuring tools. Settings along the lens barrel show a picture of one person for portraits, two people for pictures of two people, three people for group pictures, and a mountain symbol for everything in the distance, including mountains. I stopped hyperventilating, and realized that, for a point-and-shoot camera, this is more than enough. And for all you nitpickers, Olympus also included precise distance measurements in both meters and feet on the underside of the lens. Phew.

Once shooting the Trip started to shine, and I was easily able to focus on exactly what matters most in photography – composition. From the first frame I found myself joyfully snapping away at whatever tickled my fancy, even though I didn’t know what aperture values and shutter speeds the Trip 35 was choosing. Frankly, I didn’t give a damn. All that mattered to me was finding different angles, new ways to play with light, and how to capture Chinatown’s unique charm. It felt like with each and every frame, the Trip was dissolving my shooter’s block more and more, and I wanted to just keep shooting.

So the little Olympus and I danced through Chinatown’s colorful landscape, happily snapping away. In no uncertain terms, it was the most fun I’d ever had with a camera. Even though the heat of the afternoon beat on my shoulders and the sweat sizzled on my brow, the Trip 35 and I ran through the city without a care in the world. The streets led us to the door of a steamy Chinese restaurant, then a pile of steaming pork buns, then back to the equally steamy interior of my car. I didn’t care how long the journey took or how much fluid I lost in that heatwave. It seemed like I sweated out my shooter’s block, and I eagerly raced home to deliver the buns, and develop the film.

But something was nagging me about the camera the entire way home; the focus issue. Had I gotten the focus correct for every shot? How was I to trust those markings? How could I possibly live without a focusing aid? Anxiety began to rear its head again and I had to stop myself from speeding over to a one-hour photo lab to assuage my fears. I gripped the steering wheel tight and told myself to trust the Trip. Besides, I still had a job to do. These pork buns weren’t going to deliver themselves.

After delivering and munching on said pork buns with my contented sibling, I decided to get the roll developed and scanned. My fears were partially founded. Some of the shots, especially photos of close subjects or darker scenes, came back fuzzy due to a combination of my poor distance estimation and the nature of the Trip’s exposure and focus systems. While the Trip automatically helps achieve sharp focus by selecting a smaller aperture for greater depth-of-field, this is only possible in bright light. As things get dark, the ability to shoot at a smaller aperture quickly disappears. In these situations it can be really difficult to nail correct focus. One minor consequence of this is that shooters with an affinity for portraiture and those sweet bokeh balls will probably be disappointed by this camera.

But expecting creamy bokeh and close range performance from the Trip 35 (or most point-and-shoots for that matter) is like expecting a ‘93 Honda Civic to outpace a Tesla Model S. It just won’t happen, and trying will lead to frustration. But just like that Honda, if you regard the Trip 35 as a reliable machine good for an occasional joyride, it will never disappoint. The Trip 35 is capable of a great many things , but we must be careful to recognize and respect its own limits.

When we get the focus right, the Trip’s fantastic 40mm F/2.8 Zuiko lens delivers in spades. The lens is a front-focusing Tessar type lens, which means that it’s very simple and very sharp, and it retains this sharpness edge to edge without chromatic aberration, spherical aberration, or any kind of distortion due to its simple optical formula and Olympus’s masterful execution. The lens’ quality even overcame the limitations of expired film, and ended up giving me some great results.

For whom is this camera best suited? First and foremost, the Trip 35 might just be the perfect camera for the casual photophile. Olympus built this camera to document the daily adventures of the everyman, and the Trip does this beautifully. And for experienced shooters, the Trip 35 can be a great way to break free of shooter’s block, or inject our shooting with something fun and carefree. It emphasizes the art of composition rather than the cold calculations of exposure, but even more importantly, it reminds us to relax, have a pork bun, and not take ourselves too seriously.

Want to try the Trip 35 for yourself?

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Camera Review
film camera
olympus Trip

Josh Solomon is a freelance writer and touring bassist living in Los Angeles. He has an affinity for all things analog. When not onstage, you can find him roaming around Southern California shooting film and humming a tune.

29 comments

Very nicely done.

Great review of the Trip! This is the camera that lured me away from Lomography and the whole low-fi aesthetic. While the metering system is somewhat primitive and the zone focusing can be imprecise, especially in low light, it’s obvious that all the money and work went into the lens. In the right circumstances it’s absolutely tack sharp. Once I started getting sharp images from my Trip, the Lomo LC-A+ and the Holga started looking a lot less appealing.

The Trip definitely has some big limitations but on its own terms it’s a great camera.

Here’s my Trip album on Flickr to get an idea.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/21156896@N07/sets/72157645739914959

Thanks for adding your Flickr album. It’s great for people to be able to see what these cameras can do in varied situations.

Thanks so much! Those images are fantastic; they really showcase what that lens can do. Funny you mention the LC-A+… ?

Thanks! The LC-A+ was the camera that got me back into using film after an extended dalliance with digital photography. I used it really heavily for about 2 years before becoming curious about other cameras. The fact that the Lomo is also a zone focuser made it very easy for me to switch to the Trip and the XA2.

Great write up Josh, and really nice album Neilson! I had to do a double take on some of those shots, especially the close up portraits, realizing that you had used a Trip.

I agree, what a great review and some fine shots on that flickr gallery. I’ve just bought my 50th Olympus Trip 35 and am steadily rebuilding them from head to toe. I’ve posted some reviews and other helpful reviews on my site https://trip35.co/

Great pictures from the Trip. You got to love these little cameras!

The Trip 35 was *made* for landscapes and group photos in good light outside. It’s really dang good for those things. For everything else, not so much! But like you, on a day when I’m just out and about shooting stuff, I find the Trip 35 to be big fun.

My last outing with my Trip 35: https://blog.jimgrey.net/2015/04/20/olympus-trip-35-revisited/

If I ever get on an airplane again I think I’ll be bringing this camera… We’ll see. Josh and your post have helped convince me. Thanks for sharing.

Great review of one of my favourite cameras and one of the best free cameras I’ve ever been given. The quality you can get from this little package has always astounded me, this is an example taken with just bog standard Poundland special film (Agfa Vista 200) https://the6millionpman.wordpress.com/2016/09/30/cardiff-bay-sunset-3/

And yet again I confess to being an Olympus fanboy.

Beautiful colors and range on that.

Great article Josh, and thanks for publishing it James. There wasn’t a link, but I started the Olympus Trip 35 users group on Facebook, here is the link. P.S. A few famous photogrpaphers in the group.

http://www.facebook.com/groups/OlympusTrip35

Hey my friend! Thanks for commenting. We did include a link there, it’s in the third to last paragraph where it says the Trip is “capable…” etc.

And for anyone down here in the comments, do check out the FB group. Amazing talent there shooting with all kinds of Trips.

The Trip Flickr group is worth checking out too. Lots of good stuff there.

https://flic.kr/g/5jsssh

Great write-up! I have three of these and, while I’m by no means a great photographer, I do love the pick-up-and-go nature of the Trip 35. For those who are interested, I spent an entire day refocusing the lens on one of mine;

https://teeritz.blogspot.com.au/2014/04/re-focusing-lens-on-olympus-trip.html

Almost drove me nuts!

That post is scary. You’re a brave man.

Bought a Trip after reading a recommendation by Ken Rockwell. At the time I thought I only ever needed one camera – an FE – and I had one. However, the Trip is great for other things. As you say, the pictures are so sharp. And its so easy to use.

I love my Trip 35. Fantastically sharp lens and incredibly easy to use! The zone focusing took a bit getting used to and I do still occasionally misfocus, but when that happens I embrace my inner William Klein. Also, my copy came with a lens cap and zipped up in a bag so the selenium is not at all worn out and the AE is spot-on. I actually trust shooting slide film in this camera more than any of my all-manual cameras!

Hi! Thank you so much. I am seriously considering to buy a Trip. I want to go traveling and bring a good camera. Do you think this one will do? And some people say it’s not really for taking photo’s in the dark/on parties. Are they right?

Thanks again 🙂

Hey Nikki! The Trip is the perfect camera for travel and casual outdoor shooting IMO, but it does suffer in low light without a flash. A little compact flash will help, and it does have a manual aperture override for accurate flash exposures.

If you’re going to be spending lots of time indoors I would suggest either picking up a cheap P&S with a built in flash, or upgrading entirely to a compact SLR/fixed-lens rangefinder with a fast (f/2 and under) lens for low-light shooting without a flash. Hope this helps!

Hello Nikki, I am the Admin of the Olympus Trips 35 Users Group, I recommend you join to get advice, and there are trustworthy sellers in the group.

See the website link below my comment

I’ve recently picked up aTrip 35 and have been very pleasantly surprised by the ease of use and picture quality. I even tried some low light close shots and had better results than I expected. Tip #1: use 400 speed film to increase versatility. You get more depth of field in any situation and therefore more focussing accuracy. You will also hold off the “red flag” for a stop or two. Tip #2: learn how to guesstimate the zone distances as accurately as possible. If you’re shooting close-up in lower light try to nail the actual distance e.g. set the lens on 1 meter and try to be 1 meter away. Use a tape measure at first so you can see what the distances look like. As the light falls or distances get closer then more accuracy is required from the photographer. Tip #3: remember that you can press the shutter button half way down to lock the exposure. Meter off a mid-tone then recompose and shoot. This will help with back lighting and other tricky light. Tip #4: try to shoot within the limits of the design and you will get good results. The Trip 35 was meant for family holidays and a whimsical approach to photography. If you require critical focussing or metering the Trip was never really designed for that. Enjoy!

Hi, Josh. Great writing. I enjoyed reading your review and laughed so much at the pork bun adventure! Thanks!

Thirty-seven years of shooting film and the Trip 35 was a camera I’d always ignored for being ‘too simple’. I spotted one in a local charity shop last week that was cased, boxed and in lovely condition and I got it for next to nothing. I ran half a roll of FT-12 ASA50 cinema film through and the results were far better than I expected. I started out on Olympus all those years ago (still use them) but I’m a bit ashamed of myself for ignoring this little gem. My 8 year old is just starting to take an interest in photography and this is going to be ideal for her.

Thanks for a great review and for pointing out a couple of little features I hadn’t spotted.

Quick pedantic note: In virtually everything I’ve seen online about the Trip 35, there’s one thing that nobody ever seems to say:

The Trip 35 is essentially the full-frame version of the earlier half-frame Pen EES and EES-2.

I had an EES-2 and it was a great shooter for an inexpensive camera. It worked exactly the same way as the Trip: the selenium meter around the lens chose one of two shutter speeds or raised a red flag if there wasn’t sufficient light; it had a four-icon zone focus lens; there was one manual speed for flash along with adjustable f-stops when not in Auto. Of course, the Trip had a different focal length lens to produce a full-frame image, but I suspect it’s of a very similar design to the EES-2’s. And note that the Trip 35’s top plate includes the EES-2’s hot shoe, along with the back cover/rewind knob from the Pen series (and frame counter from the Pen F series), and the viewfinder is essentially the same as the EES-2’s.

My point is: the Trip 35’s super-successful design wasn’t actually new, the camera was scaled up from the already successful Pen EES series.

Thank you… Now I’m on my way for fun an Mindfulness 🙂 A very brilliant text who give me interests and energy. Thank you 🙂

Just bought one, trying it out tomorrow. I would suggest to buy a tripod and a self-release cord, set it to A and just set for the distance. I used to carry a 110 film camera back in 1977 and was taught photography back in 1981 from a WW2 vet. Warhol used a Pentax 35afm because he could set a high iso without flash.

Olympus Trip 35 Review – A cult classic point & shoot

8 May, 2013

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I’m certainly not the first and I suspect I won’t be the last to write a little something about the Olympus Trip 35. I have read this camera had sales figures of around 10,000,000. Olympus used the ‘trip’ moniker on a lot of cameras subsequent to the one in question here, so who knows how many trip 35’s were sold? What is clear is that the number is vast! You only need to go on eBay and see how many are for sale at any one time. Just search for ‘Olympus trip’ on google and you will find entire websites dedicated to the things. This camera is a popular little snapper and has been since it hit the market in the late 60’s.

It’s production ran from 1967 through to 1984! It’s popularity was helped along by David Bailey and by the fact that the very simple 40mm lens is exceptionally high quality. It was touted as a camera that could take professional quality images yet is small and very easy to use … No wonder they sold so many!

The name “Trip” comes from the the idea that it was intended as a camera for taking on holiday. I guess this translates to a camera for everyone. And that it really is! This camera is a true point and shoot that even the most inexperienced photographer could use with little chance of failure. This is due to the slightly limited but very simple design and operation. The camera is almost entirely automated for all situations apart from shooting with a flash. Load the camera with a film between 25 and 400iso, set it as such on the dial around the front of the lens and you can let the camera do pretty much the rest.

The selenium cell based light meter effectively powers the cameras operation. With the camera set to ‘A’, based on the light hitting the meter it will choose the most appropriate aperture between f2.8 and f22. It will also choose either 1/40th or 1/200th for the shutter speed. If the amount of light isn’t adequate for at very least 1/40th and f2.8 it will simply prevent the photo from being taken. It tells you this is happening by popping up a little red flag in the viewfinder. If this happens it is intended that the user attach a flash.

If taken off ‘A’ and an aperture selected manually the meter and the flag are disabled and the camera set to shoot at 1/40th. The assumption is that a flash would be attached and that an appropriate aperture for the subjects distance would be selected. Of course it also means that as long as you are happy shooting a 1/40th you can just choose your own aperture and shoot without the little flag stopping you. This does lead to the camera being used more creatively and outside of the way it was intended but more on that later!

Focusing is achieved by selection of one of four possible preset distances which are denoted by four familiar pictures. A head and shoulders for the closest focusing and a picture of mountains for infinity. The second furthest focusing distance (denoted by three little people) is highlighted in red. The same red as the ‘A’. This is no accident, in daylight set the camera to ‘A’ the the three little red people and you can shoot away with little worry of out of focus images.

This simplicity does make for a very enjoyable shooting experience, but with a little imagination the camera can be used (as previously mentioned) outside of the intended way.

The first little trick is quite an obvious one really. The camera can be tricked into over or under exposing by changing the film speed. Eg 200 ISO film in camera and up to 1ev of under exposure can be achieved by setting it to 400iso. You could of course also dial in up to 3ev of over exposure. An example of where this might be useful would be shooting a backlit subject eg a person stood in front of a window.

Another trick is for low light shooting. When set to ‘A’ low light shooting is somewhat limited. That pesky red flag rears its little head and a 400iso limit is a little low. As mentioned before though, the little red flag can be disabled, and if not using the lightmeter there is no need to worry about what ISO the camera is set to. So as long as you are happy at 1/40th you can put whatever ISO film in you like and manually select exposure with the aperture control. There are in fact many people who do this some of whom post in the Flickr group. It’s not something I have tried since resurrecting the camera… But I’m going to … And will post some shots when I get around to it!

So what’s all the fuss about? Surly there are more highly specified cameras that allow shooting in more circumstances without such limitations. Well yes, but it’s the simplicity that is the charm, combined with a superb lens and the fact that they so rarely go wrong it’s hard not to love this camera!

So that’s the Trip 35, a cult classic, incredibly simple to use, hardy, cheap as chips and packed with charm … Basically, buy one! Use it, love it!

Additional – I have done a ‘Through the viewfinder’ article on this camera which can be found here Through the Viewfinder – Olympus Trip 35

Some useful links: Help with dating your trip Instructions for repairing your trip 35 A possibly useful modification

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Trip 35 and some very cheap film and Connie. on Olympus Trip 35 Review – A cult classic point & shoot

Comment posted: 23/05/2013

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Finding the Universe

Travel tales, photography and a dash of humor

Best Travel Camera - camera above Florence

The Best Travel Camera: Compact, DSLR, Mirrorless & Phone!

Last updated: June 14, 2024 . Written by Laurence Norah - 167 Comments

I’m a professional travel photographer, and one of the most popular questions I’m asked by readers and students on my travel photography course is what the best travel camera is.

With that in mind, I wanted to put together a definitive (and regularly updated) guide to the best travel camera out there.

This guide covers everything you need to know to help you choose the best camera for travel, based on your needs and budget, as well as a guide to all my favourite cameras.

This is a detailed post, in which I’m going to cover my top picks for the best camera across a range of categories, including smartphones, compact cameras, mirrorless cameras and DSLR cameras, to name just some of the options.

These travel camera picks will suit a wide range of budgets, needs, and expertise levels. Our picks are ordered in approximate order of budget, from lower budget models through to higher end models.

I’m also going to go through in detail what you need to look for when buying a camera for travelling, and why each specification is important, so you can make the best choice for you.

Remember, the best camera for travel is going to be very dependent on your needs and situation, but after reading this post you should be able to pick the right camera for you – even if it’s not one we suggest!

I also have a guide to the best cameras for hiking and backpacking which contains some different options specific to those requirements, as well as a guide to the best action cameras .

This guide will also work if you are looking to buy a camera for someone else, and I recommend taking a look at our photography gift guide for more ideas of what to buy a photographer too.

Now, before we dive into individual travel camera recommendations, let’s get started by looking at what you need to think about when picking a camera for travel.

I think this is essential reading, as understanding what you are looking for when buying a camera will help you make a truly informed decision.

Table of Contents:

What To Consider When Picking A Travel Camera

Budget – how much do you have to spend on a travel camera.

This is an important one. Cameras vary wildly in price, from a couple of hundred dollars up to thousands of dollars. So you definitely need to think about how much you want to spend.

Also, this is a travel camera. Whilst you want to get the best shots, travel can expose you to risks, from loss to theft. Obviously, these are things that can be mitigated against with insurance, but it’s something to bear in mind when making an investment – the more pricey the camera, the higher the insurance premium.

Finally, don’t forget that the camera is only a part of the puzzle. You will also need things like memory cards, spare batteries, lenses – as well as possibly a tripod and filters. Your needs will vary, but don’t forget to include them in your overall budget – I’ve written a post on travel photography accessories to give you some pointers, as well as a guide to picking the best lens for travel photography .

Weight – How much are you willing to carry around?

This is a really important question. If you’re the kind of person who likes to travel light, then you’re not going to want a bulky DSLR. Having the best travel camera that sits in your hotel room while you’re out having fun isn’t going to be much use.

Even a mirrorless system might be too much for you if you want something that will truly fit in your pocket or purse, and your best bet is probably a smartphone or compact camera.

On the other hand, if image quality and low-light performance are more important to you than weight, and you’re happy carrying spare lenses, filters, and other accessories, then you’ll likely be looking at a mirrorless or DSLR system.

Remember, as a general rule of thumb, the bigger the camera, the more room it has for a larger sensor. A larger sensor means the camera can capture more light, which means you’ll get sharper, cleaner images even when shooting in darker situations.

Use – What are you going to be taking pictures of?

The type of photography you’re going to be doing makes a big different to the type of travel camera you will be buying. If your main goal is to take nice travel photos for your albums, social media, and to post to friends and family online, then any of the camera types will likely do the job.

However, if you’re going to be doing a lot of action photography, or need the camera to be fully waterproof, then something like a GoPro is going to be the best option.

If you like astrophotography, you’re going to need a camera with a big sensor to let in plenty of light and you might want to invest in a DSLR. Conversely, if you just want a general purpose camera with plenty of flexibility for a variety of travel scenes, from food to landscapes to people, then something like a mirrorless system will most likely be best, offering the best performance for the weight.

Extra features to look for in a Travel Camera

A lot of cameras these days come with extra features that you may or may not care about. I’m talking about touchscreen interfaces, built-in GPS, WiFi, weather resistance, pivoting screens, and so on.

The main features you should be looking at in terms of actual image quality are the sensor size, aperture range, level of manual control, and, for cameras without an interchangeable lens, the optical zoom. Beyond that, which features you are interested in depend on your needs.

For example, you may also want to take videos with your camera. Some cameras are much better at video than others – notably Panasonic’s range of Lumix cameras are known for their video performance.

Personally, I love having a camera with GPS and WiFi capabilities so I can easily remember where my shots were taken, plus I can remote control my camera from my smartphone. On the other hand, a touchable, pivoting screen isn’t a deal breaker for me.

What works for me might not work for you though, so think about which features are important to you when making a purchasing decision. The best camera for travel photography definitely varies from person to person, but hopefully the information in this post will help you make the right decision.

Photography Terminology to Know When Buying a Camera for Travel

Like any subject, photography brings with it a raft of terminology – some of it is important to know about, other things are manufacturer buzzwords that don’t really make any difference to your photography. Here are the important terms to look for when buying a camera for travel, and what they mean.

Aperture. The aperture is the hole in the lens that lets light in, and is one side of the exposure triangle . Aperture is measured in numbers, with an “f” preceding the number, for example, f/1.8, f/2.2. The smaller the number after the “f”, the bigger the hole, and the more light that gets in. Look for smaller numbers, which will let you get better pictures even when there is less light available, and also allow you to better control depth of field .

Optical zoom. This represents the difference between the smallest and largest magnification that the camera’s lens can achieve. So a camera with a 10x optical zoom can make objects seem 10x bigger in the image compared to when the camera is zoomed out.

Digital zoom. A totally pointless feature that some manufacturers add to their cameras. It’s basically a software zoom – the same effect you get if you zoom in on your PC or smartphone when you have an image. Avoid using it.

Focal length. Focal length is the proper photography term for optical zoom, and is a standard across lenses and manufactures. Optical zoom is an easy to understand number that you will find in point and shoot cameras. Focal length, measured in mm, is the number you will find on cameras with interchangeable lenses. The bigger the focal length, the more magnification the lens offers.

EVF. An electronic viewfinder. This means that the camera has a viewfinder, but rather than being a glass based version that shows the scene in front of you as your eye sees it, instead there’s a small electronic screen which shows what the camera sensor is seeing – the same as the display on the back of the camera. You generally only find these on high end mirrorless cameras.

Megapixels. Megapixels just refers to the number of pixels the camera’s sensor has. Mega means million. So 12 megapixels is 12 million pixels, and would be an image 4000 pixels wide and 3000 pixels high. 4000 * 3000 = 12 million.

Thankfully, manufacturers are nearly over the megapixel war, which is a good thing, because as long as you have over about 12 megapixels, you’re good to go. In some cases, such as smartphones, less megapixels is actually better, as you’ll probably get better low-light performance as each pixel on the sensor might be bigger. But yes, unless you’re planning on printing out your images on billboard sized canvases, you can essentially ignore the megapixel marketing.

OIS / EIS. These are image stabilisation technologies, either Optical Image Stabilisation (OIS) or Electronic Image Stabilisation (EIS). OIS is found in a number of camera and lens systems, and a small number of smartphones, and is a mechanical system that compensates for small movements of the camera system, such as your hand. EIS is generally only found in smartphones, and is a software solution for motion compensation. OIS generally achieves better results.

Sensor size. The size of the sensor inside a camera is one of the most important specifications to be aware of. The bigger the sensor, the more light it can capture, and so the better it will perform in conditions where there is less light.

Sensor sizes range from tiny, such as those found in smartphones, and generally increase in size as the size of the camera increases. Here’s a diagram to show different sensor sizes, and you can read more about different formats here .

Do be aware that manufactures can be a bit sneaky when it comes to describing sensor sizes, particularly in compact cameras. They might for example, talk about having a “1-inch” sensor.

This refers to the type of sensor, rather than it’s physical size. So whilst a 1/2.3 inch sensor is smaller than a 1-inch sensor, neither sensor is actually close to 1/2.3 inch or 1 inch. See more on how physical sensor sizes map to actual sensor sizes here .

RAW. RAW is a file format that more advanced cameras use, allowing you to save the unmodified image data that the camera has captured, rather than the edited JPG version.

This gives you much greater control over the final look of your images, with the downside that file sizes are much bigger, and you have to edit them on your computer in an image editing program before you can use them anywhere.

Many cameras give you the option to shoot in RAW, JPEG/JPG, or to shoot in both. We recommend shooting in both even if you plan only to use the JPG version for now – in the future as your photography skills develop, you’ll be pleased to have the option to go back and edit the original RAW files. You can find out more about RAW in my guide to RAW in photography .

If you are interested in learning more about photography and understanding in detail all the terms above and how they affect your shots, check out my travel photography course , which has all the photography answers you need.

The Best Travel Camera

I’ve divided this list into the different types of camera for travel, with some information on what to look for in each category. I will keep this post updated with the latest travel camera options as they are released. You can see the last date of update at the top of the post.

Each section has a series of the best travel camera recommendations ordered approximately by price, from lowest to highest. Note that prices change and sales occur, which is why we link you to the relevant pages on Amazon and other camera retailers for up to date pricing information.

This should give you everything you need to know to help you make a decision on which would be the best travel camera for you to buy, based on your budget, usage scenario and luggage space.

Best Smartphones for Photography

Why pick a smartphone for travel photography.

If you care about portability, ease of use, and not having to carry another device around with you, then my advice is to get a smartphone with a decent camera, and just use that.

A smartphone can certainly make for a good travel camera, and the latest smartphones take excellent photos in a wide variety of situations.

They also have more features than your average small travel camera – you can share the images directly from the smartphone to your favourite social media platforms, plus have them automatically back up to the cloud as you go using something like the Google Photos app.

In addition, since a smartphone is a device that nearly all of us will be travelling with anyway, choosing one which takes good photos is a cost-effective way of buying a camera.

The main disadvantages are the lack of lens options, reduced manual controls, and generally poor performance in low-light due to the small sensor. But if you want something you’re always going to have on you, a smartphone is hard to beat.

Finally, I’d also add that it’s worth picking a smartphone with a good camera even if you plan on buying a standalone camera. It will serve as a good backup, and you are likely to always have it on you.

What to Look for When Buying a Smartphone for Travel Photography

Manufacturers are fairly inventive when it comes to squeezing tech into tiny smartphone bodies, but obviously there’s a limit to what can be achieved in such a small form factor.

Features to look out for include a wide aperture, which will let more light in, and let you capture shots in low light conditions. Another good feature is an optical zoom, which will let you capture images of further away subjects. This is usually achieved either with a clever nifty periscope zoom, or through the use of multiple cameras as different focal lengths.

Some smartphone manufacturers talk about having bigger pixel sizes. This relates to the physical size of the pixels on the sensor, a number measured in µm, or micrometers. Larger pixel sizes are good as they are more light sensitive and help low light performance.

Speaking of pixels, be wary of high megapixel numbers. In my opinion, anything above 16MP is a warning sign that the manufacturer is trying to win you over with high numbers – you really want less megapixels, as each pixel can then be bigger to capture more light.

Other features to look out for are some form of stabilisation, either optical or electronic, which will let you get photos in lower light and compensate for your hand movement. Better smartphones will have more manual controls to give you more options for your photos. There are different types of focusing system, but I’ve never found a lot of variation between them. Waterproofing can be a benefit, meaning you can get photos in the rain or at the beach.

Also if you plan to travel internationally with your phone a lot, try to choose an unlocked phone so you can put a foreign SIM card in, and that works on multiple frequencies so you still get 3G, LTE/4G and 5G (for more recent phones). That means you can still easily use it to call, text, and get online when travelling internationally. Here’s an excellent resource for finding out which phones work on which networks in which countries.

The Best Smartphone for Travel Photography

Here are five suggestions for current phones which I think are some of the best smartphones for travel photography and should definitely at least get you started in your search. Prices are for the unlocked version of the phones, you might be able to get a better deal through a carrier on a contract.

1. Google Pixel 8

Google Pixel 8 - Unlocked Android Smartphone with Advanced Pixel Camera, 24-Hour Battery, and Powerful Security - Obsidian - 128 GB

Launched in late 2023, the Google Pixel 8 and Pixel 8 Pro offer a combination of reasonable price and excellent camera performance. They can take great pictures in the majority of lighting situations, including in low light, when it switches into a low light mode.

Most users will likely be happy with the Pixel 8 version. This comes with a 50MP wide angle camera (which outputs 12.5MP images) and a 12MP ultrawide camera, as well as an 8MP front facing camera. It comes with a 1/1.31” sensor and a f/1.7 aperture. The wide-angle camera has 1.2µm pixels, whilst the ultrawide uses 1.25µm pixels

You also get 4K video support as well as built-in image stabilization. The standard Pixel has no optical zoom, but it does support shooting in RAW. Being a smartphone, it has a touchscreen, and it’s also water resistant.

You can also upgrade to the Pixel 8 Pro if you want an additional 5x telephoto lens, although it does cost a bit more.

This would be our pick for the best reasonably priced smartphone for travel photography.

Check latest price here .

2. Fairphone 5

Since 2013, Fairphone have been manufacturing smartphones that are fairly made. What does that mean? Well, the idea is that the production of their devices is made in a sustainable way, with practices that benefit everyone involved.

That includes the people involved in everything from the mining of the materials that go into the phone, through to you, the consumer. Over the years, smartphones have become increasingly hard for consumers to repair, with the industry moving towards a more disposable model.

Fairphone wants to change that, with phones that are user repairable and upgradeable, as well as relatively affordable.

Now, to be honest, the first few phones from FairPhone weren’t class leading. Building a device that meets all their requirements is tough. But they have continued, and the latest iteration, the Fairphone 5, is actually solid performer when it comes to general use, and also as a camera.

You get two main cameras. The first is a 50MP f/1.9 aperture camera with a 1/1.56″ sensor, 1 μm pixels and optical image stabilization. The second is an ultrawide 50MP with an f/2.2 aperture, 0.7um pixels and a 1/2.51″ sensor.

Now, the image quality from other phones on our list will be marginally better, but the green and environmental credentials of the Fairphone are world leading for smartphones.

3. Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra

Samsung’s flagship Galaxy phones are known for their superior photography capabilities, and the 2023 Galaxy S23 Ultra is no exception.

You get four rear mounted lenses, a boggling 200MP f/1.7 wide angle, a telephoto 10MP f/4.9, a second telephoto 10MP f/2.4 and an ultrawide 12MP f/2.2.

This range of lenses gives you a 10x optical zoom, as well as impressive digital zoom capabilities which go all the way up to 100x! The front facing camera is no slouch either, offering a 12MP f/2.2 wide angle.

Pair that with pixel sizes from 0.6µm-1.4µm pixels and OIS – all packaged in a water-resistant smartphone, it’s no wonder that it is usually found at the top of the pile when people review cameras for smartphones. This is the smartphone I currently own and use for my mobile travel photography needs. Check latest price here .

4. iPhone 15 Pro Max

The latest iPhone Max model offers a range of photography focused features that make it a worthwhile upgrade over previous iPhone models. You get 3 cameras in total.

There’s a main 48MP camera which also offers a 2x 12MP zoom. Then there are 2 12-megapixel cameras, one which offers an ultra-wide lens, and one with a 5x telephoto zoom. This latter is the biggest optical zoom of any iPhone to date.

There’s also a built in LIDAR scanner, which makes for wonderful night photos, as well as a RAW mode. A great choice if you’re an Apple person. Check latest price here .

Best Compact Camera for Travel Photography

Why pick a compact camera for travel photography.

A compact travel camera offers a number of advantages. First, they offer larger sensors than most smartphones, so image quality and performance is usually improved. They are pocketable, so easy to take with you.

Compact cameras also tend to be designed to be more user friendly (hence the nickname point-and-shoot cameras) and are generally much less expensive than mirrorless and DSLR camera systems. Many models offer manual controls, and having a separate device means you can keep on taking photos even if your smartphone battery is on the way out.

One of the biggest advantages though, and the reason to pick a compact travel camera over a smartphone, is the optical zoom. All the compact travel cameras we feature have an optical zoom (except the GoPros), letting you get shots of distant objects that you wouldn’t be able to get with a smartphone.

The main disadvantages are the smaller sensor sizes compared to a mirrorless or DSLR and the lack of interchangeable lenses.

If you’re interested in buying a compact camera, see our detailed guide to getting the most out of a compact camera here for some tips and advice.

What to look for when buying a Compact Travel Camera for Travel Photography

There are a variety of features that compact travel cameras offer for travel photography. Key features to look for are the optical zoom, and specifically, how much optical zoom the camera offers.

Other features include the size of the sensor – the bigger the sensor, the better the performance – the maximum aperture, and whether or not there is some form of image stabilisation technology built in.

Any camera with a long optical zoom needs excellent image stabilisation, as the more you zoom in, the more exacerbated tiny movements become.

Other features to consider depending on your needs include GPS, WiFi and touchscreen capabilities. Some more advanced compact travel cameras also include manual modes, which can really help you get the most out of them, and some even shoot in RAW. Let’s take a look at our pick of the best compact travel cameras.

The Best Compact Camera for Travel Photography

Here are a number of my top suggestions for compact travel cameras which I think are some of the best options for travel photography.

Note, many manufacturers have ramped down production of their compact cameras and new models are not being released. This is largely due to the popularity of smartphones.

The main impact is that many of the models I recommend are now older models.

This means stock and availability of some compact camera models can be very low. This is especially the case at the lower price points.

I’d suggest checking used camera sites like KEH or MPB if you are struggling to find a specific model.

1. Panasonic Lumix ZS70 / (TZ90 in UK)

With a 30x optical zoom lens, a 20.3MP 1/2.3 inch sensor, OIS, full manual controls and RAW support, this camera puts out some great shots at an excellent price for what you get. It even has an electronic viewfinder, which is rare in a compact camera and can make composing images in bright sunlight easier.

A newer model was released in 2019 – the ZS80 . This adds Bluetooth and a higher resolution EVF but not much else. We’re not sure that is a sufficient upgrade to justify the price difference, but it’s up to you. If you find them at the same price, then you might as well get the ZS80, otherwise the ZS70 remains our pick while it’s still available.

Check price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here

2. Sony RX100

It also has a fast f/1.8 aperture and a 3x optical zoom. It’s a little long in the tooth now, but you can pick one up for a great price, hence the inclusion in this list. You can also get newer models with newer features at increasing price points.

We use and love the RX100 version V , which offers a number of upgrades over this model and is available at a reasonable price. You can see the bottom of this section for the latest and greatest version as well.

Check price on Amazon here

3. Canon Powershot SX740

At 1/2.3in, the sensor is similar to other cameras at this price point. Also, as with other cameras with a long zoom, it comes with the tradeoff that the maximum aperture only goes to f3.3, and at maximum zoom, is all the way down at f/6.9.

Still, it’s one of the best zoom cameras in our list of point and shoot travel cameras, especially at this price point, and the price is excellent for what you get.

4. Olympus TG-7 Waterproof Camera

If you need a camera that will survive nearly everything you throw at it, including drops and being submerged in water, then this Olympus is a great option.

It’s particularly focused on those looking for underwater photography, and unlike the GoPro mentioned below, it features a 4x optical zoom lens. This is also optically stabilized.

This camera also has RAW shooting, 4K video support, a fast f/2 lens and built in GPS, as well as a variety of dust, shock and waterproof features. Of all the cameras in our list, this is probably the one with the most survivability!

5. Canon Powershot G9 X Mark II

It has more manual controls, allows for RAW shooting, and an aperture that starts at f/2. The optical zoom isn’t too impressive at 3x, but you definitely get improved image quality from that larger sensor.

6. Sony Cybershot HX99

With an excellent 28x optical zoom packed into a small body, the camera offers an 18.2-megapixel 1/2.3in sensor, flipping touch screen, 4K video support, electronic viewfinder, manual modes, RAW support, Bluetooth and 10fps shooting support.

It’s an excellent choice for a compact zoom camera, with good image quality and solid features. It’s also reasonably priced for what it offers.

Check price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here .

7. Panasonic Lumix ZS100 (TZ100 in UK)

Panasonic’s 1-inch sensor camera model is no slouch, with an f/2.8 aperture lens and an impressive 10x optical zoom. It also has full manual controls, a touchscreen interface, EVF, OIS and RAW shooting.

It’s a little more pricey than other options in our list, but that optical zoom is a definite bonus in the 1-inch sensor category. There is also a newer model, the ZS200 , which costs a bit more and also has a 15x optical lens, although it has a narrower aperture as a result.

8. Panasonic Lumix LX100 II

We’re moving up a price point now with the Panasonic Lumix LX100 II. This is unique amongst the compact cameras in our lineup, as it uses a micro four thirds sensor.

This larger sensor results in better low light performance, but does mean the camera is larger and heavier. The sensor offers 17MP of resolution in a 4:3 aspect ratio. The camera comes with a 24-75mm equivalent lens (approximately 3x optical zoom) which offers a variable aperture of f/1.7 – f/2.8.

You also get a touch screen, electronic viewfinder, optical image stabilization, full manual controls, and RAW support. The screen however doesn’t flip out.

Overall, this is an excellent option for those who don’t mind trading absolutely portability for improved image quality. If you fall within this category, you may also consider the Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark III , which has an even larger APS-C sized sensor in an even larger body.

9. Sony RX100 VII

There’s a big jump in price to Sony’s latest RX100 model, the RX100 VII. Released in August 2019, in our opinion this is one of the best compact travel cameras money can buy. If your budget can stretch to it then this would be our pick for the best compact camera for travel.

Like the previous model in the lineup, the VI, this camera is a leap over previous cameras in the RX100 lineup as it has a far more impressive optical zoom, equivalent to 8x, with a 24mm – 200mm lens.

This compares very favourably to the previous optical zoom of models in the range (versions I – V), at 3x.

It still retains the 1-inch sensor, so you get better image quality than your average compact camera. It’s also the first in the series to feature a variable aperture which is slightly slower – however we feel this is a reasonable trade-off due to the zoom capability. It also has image stabilisation, a tilting screen and an electronic viewfinder.

We would argue that this is the best small camera for travel photography, if you have the budget for it, although the improvements over the VI are not too significant, so if you can find that for a lower price, that might be the one to go for. We personally have the version V model which we got for a great price during a sale event.

The Best Action Camera for Travel Photography

Why pick an action camera for travel photography.

If you are going to be spending time doing any kind of adventure activities, from snorkelling and swimming to skiing or snowboarding, an action camera is likely going to be the best option for you.

These tiny cameras are designed for use in more extreme environments, including total water immersion, and are perfect for capturing moments that other cameras simply wouldn’t survive.

That survivability does come with a trade-off of course – most action cameras don’t have manual controls, optical zoom or the ability to change aperture settings. However, when you’re catching the perfect wave you are unlikely to be wanting to fiddle with that sort of thing anyway – you just want something that works.

We’d generally say that an action camera is going to be best as a secondary camera or if you plan on making a lot of video. It can work as your primary camera, if you are happy to live with the restrictions.

What to look for when buying an Action Camera for Travel Photography

Most action cameras are fairly similar in size and features, although there are a few things to look out for.

Obviously, the environments the camera can survive in are important to consider. Some action cameras are totally waterproof for example, whilst others will need a special housing.

The interface is also important. These cameras are very small, so having a simple interface is key so you aren’t fumbling with setting when trying to get the shot.

Other features to look out for are image or video stabilization, size of the screen, if it has a touchscreen for control, additional features like voice commands and the resolution of the video and photo files. Support for 4K video for example should be the default for any action camera you buy for travel.

It’s also worth checking to see what accessories the camera comes with, as this can add a lot to the price. Some cameras come with a lot of accessories out of the box, whilst others will require you to spend quite a bit on additional accessories to meet your needs.

Best Action Camera for Travel Photography

Here are some of our suggestions for the best action cameras for travel photography. We also have a more complete guide to the best action cameras if you want some more suggestions.

1. Akaso Brave 7 LE

Despite the lower price, this camera doesn’t skimp on features. It supports video at up to 4K at 30 frames per second, 20MP still image capture, voice commands, electronic image stabilization, a large touch screen for control, and a second front facing screen which is perfect for selfies. It’s even water resistant without the case down to a metre, or 40 metres with the case.

Check price on Amazon here .

2. GoPro Hero

The most well-known brand in action cameras has to be GoPro, and specifically the GoPro Hero range of action cameras. Whilst they tend to be the more expensive option, they excel at action photography and video.

If you need something that’s going to survive water and action, then the GoPro line is the best option out there.

Advantages of the GoPro are that it is waterproof without a housing down to 10 metres (with housings available deeper than this), and they have fantastic image stabilization. It also has voice activated commands.

The disadvantage is that to get the best shots you are going to need to buy a number of accessories so you can mount the GoPro wherever you want. These can add up a bit. You’re also likely to need additional batteries.

Still, if you want the best action camera out there for image quality and features, the GoPro series is the one to go for!

Check price on Amazon here and B&H here

3. Insta360 Go 3

If you can’t decide between an ultraportable action camera and one with a screen, then we’d highly recommend checking out the Insta360 Go 3, which offers the best of both worlds, and is one of the action cameras we currently use.

The camera itself is tiny, weighing around 35g (1.2oz). Despite the diminutive size it’s still fully featured though, supporting 2.7K video. It’s also waterproof without a housing and features a powerful magnet system which allows you to mount and attach it almost anywhere.

If you use the camera on its own then there’s no screen. However, pop it into the “action pod” and it turns into a more traditional looking action camera with a full size tiling touchscreen, control buttons and additional battery life.

4. Insta360 X3

Most cameras on the market today shoot what’s in front of you. However, if you want to capture all the action, then you might consider a 360-degree action camera.

If that’s the case, then the brand we recommend is Insta360. They’ve been making 360-degree cameras for a number of years, and we have used a number of their cameras on trips around the world.

Their latest 360 action camera is the Insta360 X3 . It comes with two cameras, meaning it can capture a 360-degree view of the world at 5.7K. It’s no slouch at photography either, able to capture a 72MP 360 degree photo.

That means that you can get the shot and then crop down as you wish to frame the exact action moment you want. Alternatively, you can shoot with a single lens if you want. Both front and rear facing cameras are equipped with a 1/2″ 48MP sensor. It also supports HDR mode and is waterproof to 33ft (10 metres).

Check price on Amazon here and B&H here

Best Mirrorless Camera for Travel Photography

Why pick a mirrorless travel camera for travel photography.

A mirrorless travel camera is a relatively new development in the travel camera space. They are similar to DSLR cameras; however they do not have an internal mirror to reflect light from the lens to the optical viewfinder.

This means that they can be smaller, lighter and more portable – making them a top contender for the best camera for travel.

Mirrorless cameras also have all the other benefits of a DSLR – larger sensors, manual controls, excellent image quality and interchangeable lenses.

In terms of disadvantages, they are of course larger and heavier than smartphones or compact travel cameras and are more expensive, especially when you factor in one or two good lenses.

Compared to DSLRs, they generally have poorer battery life, and less lens choice – although this latter is improving as mirrorless systems mature.

What to look for when buying a Mirrorless Travel Camera for Travel Photography

Mirrorless cameras come with different sensor sizes, from the micro 4/3 format up to full frame. All of these are larger than those you will find in compact travel cameras or smartphones, and again, the larger the sensor, the more light the camera can capture in any given situation.

Another key factor to consider is the lens selection. Different manufacturers offer different lens systems, so it’s worth investigating to be sure there are sufficient lens choices for the kind of photography you want to be doing. Also be aware that whilst most mirrorless cameras ship with a kit lens, you can also buy them without a kit lens and then buy a more suitable lens for your needs.

Other considerations include the screen type, if the camera has an EVF, WiFi, water resistance, type of focus system and so on.

Also be aware that all of the camera manufacturer’s below have a range of mirrorless options – I’ve done my best to highlight those that offer the best combination of price and features for travel photography.

Based on a few years of experience shooting with a variety of different mirrorless camera systems, and feedback from fellow travel photographers, we’re put together our list of the best mirrorless cameras for travel.

If you choose one of these, we also recommend reading our guide to how to use a mirrorless camera to get you started!

1. Canon EOS R100

With a large APS-C size sensor as found in their consumer DSLRs, the Canon EOS R100 is one of the best budget travel camera options to consider. It took Canon a while to get into the mirrorless camera game, but their “R” series is now a serious line-up of excellent cameras.

The R100 is the entry level model, launched in July 2023. You get an APS-C sized 24.1MP sensor, a superb autofocus system, support for a wide range of lenses as well as built in Wi-Fi, NFC and Bluetooth. The relatively large sensor offers good performance, and I’ve personally always found the Canon menu system to be the most intuitive to use.

There’s no touchscreen, which is a logical omission at this price point, but other than that you are looking at perhaps the best entry-level mirrorless camera for beginners.

Check price on Amazon here and B&H here .

2. Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV

The Olympus has an excellent in-camera stabilisation system, an EVF, a (fixed) touchscreen and WiFi connectivity. There’s also a wide range of micro 4/3 lenses available.

3. Sony a6100

Sony have been making mirrorless cameras for a long time, and the a6000 was our model of choice for a long time. However, the camera was released in 2014, and is now getting a bit long in the tooth.

Today, we recommend the a6100 which was released in 2019. This features an APS-C sized sensor (the same as you find in most DSLR’s), fast autofocus, a tilting touch screen, EVF, and a wide range of lenses, plus WiFi, and is an excellent bit of kit for the price. The main omission is weather sealing, for which you’d want to consider the a6400 or a6600 .

Sony have a number of models in the a6xxx range. These include the a6000 (2014, discontinued), a6300 (2016, discontinued), a6500 (2016, discontinued), a6600 (2019), a6400 (2019) our current recommendation, the a6100 (2019) and the a6700 (2023).

Each of these offers different features and capabilities over the a6100. Differences include battery life, autofocus, touch screen capabilities and image stabilization.

Depending on your budget, you might find one of these suits your needs better. The a6600 in particular is an excellent choice as it offers in camera image stabilization as well as a touch screen, weather sealing and much improved battery life.

However, as of writing we think the a6100 is one of the best budget mirrorless cameras for travel.

4. Nikon Z50

Nikon was late to the mirrorless camera game, but they’ve now released a number of mirrorless camera models including full frame and DX sensor models.

The Z50 is their more entry level mirrorless camera, which features a DX sized sensor, similar to the APS-C sensor in other cameras.

It has a 20.9MP sensor, 11fps burst shooting, 4K video support, a tilting touchscreen display and an OLED viewfinder. You also get Bluetooth and WiFi connectivity, with battery life rated to around 300 shots.

If you are an existing Nikon user looking to make the leap to mirrorless, this is an excellent option. It’s a great lightweight alternative to something like the D7500, and has compatibility with most of Nikon’s lenses via an adaptor.

If you’d prefer a full frame option, consider the Nikon Z6 II or Z7 II .

Price: Check price on Amazon here , B&H here , and Adorama here

5. Panasonic Lumix GX9

To start with, Panasonic cameras are known for excellent video performance, and if this was a round-up of the best travel video camera, it would have many more Panasonic cameras in!

The GX9 also has the advantages of a fully tilting touchscreen, 4K video, excellent sensor based optical stabilisation, a wide lens choice (most micro 4/3 lenses will work). Unfortunately, unlike the GX8, this doesn’t have a weather sealed body.

6. Fujifilm X-T30 II

The X-T30 II features an APS-C sized 26.1MP sensor, excellent build quality and a reputation for taking superb, sharp photos.

You also get an EVF, a tilting touch screen and WiFi.

If you want a more traditional mode dial interface, check out the Fuji X-S10 which offers similar specifications but with the addition of in-body stabilization.

7. Canon EOS RP

This is the first full frame option in our list. I wanted to include full frame cameras in this list, despite them being a little larger and often more expensive than cameras with smaller sensors.

A full frame camera has a sensor that is approximately equivalent to a frame of 35mm film, and they generally offer the best image quality and low-light performance, at the downside of a higher price and larger physical size.

Canon’s full frame mirrorless range launched in 2018 with the Canon EOS R , and the RP is the more budget friendly offering, which has an excellent feature set in a very compact offering.

For your money you get a full frame sensor in a lightweight, weather-resistant body. There’s a flipping touchscreen, WiFi and Bluetooth connectivity, and a 26.2-megapixel sensor.

The best news though is that if you are an existing Canon user, there’s a lens adaptor. This will let you use all your existing EF and EF-S Canon lenses with the camera, meaning you don’t have to re-invest in all new lenses.

There are a few omissions – there’s no in-body image stabilization, and burst rates max out at 5fps. However we think this is an excellent option, especially if you already have some Canon lenses.

If your budget stretches to it you might instead consider the more recent Canon EOS R8 , but for the money I think the RP is a bargain full frame option.

8. Canon EOS R7

Launched in 2022, this APS-C camera is packed with the latest technology. In fact, a lot of the technology in this camera, especially around autofocus, is borrowed from Canon’s high-end EOS R3, a camera which retails in excess of $6,000 USD.

At the heart of this camera is a 32.5MP APS-C sized sensor. That is fully image stabilized, and it supports shooting at 15 frames per second (mechanical) and a staggering 30 frames per second (electronic).

Perhaps the most impressive feature though is the autofocus. This can identify and track a range of subjects, including animals and birds. I have used this system extensively and it is amazing how well it can lock onto even a fast moving subject to enable you to get sharp shots every time.

You also get a touch-enabled flip screen, weather sealing, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity, and compatibility with a massive selection of Canon lenses. Battery life is reasonable at 660 shots, and the weight without a lens is also good at 612g/ 21.58oz.

If the price is a bit much, consider instead the Canon EOS R10 . The sensor has fewer megapixels and you lose image stabilization and weather sealing. However, it weighs a lot less and you still get a very powerful camera for your money.

Price on B&H here and Adorama here

9. Sony Alpha 7c II

If you like the look of the Sony A6xxx line but want something with a full frame sensor, look no further than the Sony A7C.

Somehow, Sony has managed to fit a full frame sensor into a body that is almost identical in size and weight to the A6600, making it one of the smallest full frame mirrorless cameras on the market today.

They haven’t cut corners in terms of features either. You get a 33MP sensor, 10fps shooting, in body image stabilization, 4K video, WiFi, bluetooth, vari-angle touchscreen and weather proofing.

It even manages 540 shots on a charge. A fantastic option if you want something with a full frame sensor but in a relatively compact size.

Check latest price on Amazon here , B&H here , and Adorama here

10. Canon EOS R6 Mark II

In 2020, Canon launched two spectacular mirrorless camera options, namely the Canon EOS R6 and the Canon EOS R5 .

These were the first full frame mirrorless cameras from Canon featuring in-body image stabilization, offering an amazing 8 stops of stabilization when used with a compatible lens.

In 2022, a new model of the R6 was released, the R6 Mark II. This features improved battery life, a slightly larger sensor, and a much faster burst shooting speed compared to the original R6. It also retails at the same original MSRP of the R6, so would be the camera we recommend.

Compared to the R5, the R6 Mark II is the lower priced version, and the one we would recommend for most travel photographers. The R5 is an amazing bit of kit, with 8K video support and a higher megapixel sensor. We personally use the R5 (see our full Canon EOS R5 review here ), and love it.

However, the R6 Mark II offers a very similar experience with a much-improved price point, so unless you really need the 8K video support or higher megapixel count, we think the R6 Mark II is a great option.

Specs wise the Canon EOS R6 gives you a 24.2MP full frame sensor, autofocus that can track people, animals, and vehicles, up to a staggering 40 frames per second burst shooting, Wi-Fi & Bluetooth, 4K video, as well as a flip-out touchscreen. It’s also dust and drip-proof.

As with the Canon EOS RP above, there’s a lens adaptor which will let you use all your existing EF and EF-S Canon lenses with the camera, meaning you don’t have to re-invest in all new lenses. If you have the budget, this would definitely be my camera of choice for travel photography.

You can see our full Canon EOS R5 review here , which covers a lot of the features of the R6 Mark II, to see if it might be the camera for you.

Check price on Amazon here , B&H here and Adorama here .

11. Sony Alpha a7 IV

Sony effectively started the mirrorless camera revolution, and the Sony a7 IV, as the name suggests, is the fourth iteration in the excellent a7 range.

It comes with a full frame 33MP back side illuminated sensor, flip out LCD display, a high refresh rate EVF, WiFi, 10fps burst shooting and a fast autofocus system that includes animal and people eye tracking.

It also has excellent battery life at 610 shots per full charge, and includes weather sealing.

Of course, all these features do mean the price is relatively high. The good news is that you can still pick up previous models in the range, including the A7 III and A7 II . You lose some of the latest technology, but you still get great performance at a much lower price.

Check price on B&H here and Adorama here .

Best DSLR Cameras for Travel Photography

Why pick a dslr travel camera for travel photography.

Honestly, if this is your first travel camera purchase, then I suggest that a mirrorless camera is a better choice for most travel photography use compared to a DSLR. They offer all the control you need in a smaller, lighter package, with an ideal balance of portability and image quality.

For a time DSLR’s had a better choice of lenses and improved battery life over their mirrorless counterparts, but those areas have been significantly improved with modern mirrorless cameras and so this is no longer a good reason.

The main disadvantage of a DSLR is the weight – the weight in particular, especially when you add in some high quality lenses, is a real issue for many users.

That said, at the entry level especially, you can pick up some real bargain DSLR cameras. So if you are just starting out and want something to learn photography with, a DSLR can be a solid budget option, giving you full manual control over your photography.

Just be aware that the main manufacturers are almost exclusively focusing on mirrorless cameras going forward, which would appear to be the future of photography.

What to look for when buying a DSLR Travel Camera for Travel Photography

DSLRs tend to be the largest type of camera, so one thing that is important to look for is that the camera is comfortable in your hand. My suggestion is to visit a store and try the camera in hand, with a variety of lenses attached, to see how they perform before making a purchase. Canon and Nikon still rule the cameras in this category.

Features are fairly similar across most DSLR’s in terms of capability. They’ll either offer an APS-C sized sensor, or, more expensively, a full frame sensor.

Other features to look for include the ISO range, lens selection, weather resistance, GPS, WiFi, touch screen, autofocus system and number of control dials. More dials can be a good thing – letting you quickly set the camera up for different needs without having to dive into menu options.

If you do purchase a DSLR camera, do also take a look at our guide to using a DSLR camera to help you get the most out of it.

Best DSLR Camera for Travel Photography

We personally travel with both mirrorless camera’s and DSLR’s – for our work as travel photographers we still love our full frame DSLR – the image quality and lens selection still make these a great choice for us. Based on our experiences, here are the top five DSLR travel cameras available at the moment:

1. Nikon D3500

For the money you get a 24.2 APS-C sized sensor, solid performance and an excellent selection of lenses. To be honest, there’s not much between this and the more expensive Canon below other than this doesn’t offer 4K video support. It really depends what works for you and your budget.

2. Canon Rebel SL3 (EOS 250D in Europe)

The Canon Rebel line is an excellent series of good value entry-level DSLR cameras (my first DSLR was a Rebel), and the SL3 is no exception.

It’s one of the smaller SLR cameras Canon has made, and offers great performance for an excellent price. Specs include a touchscreen, 24.2MP sensor, WiFi, 1070 shot battery capacity, 4K video support, and compatibility with all of Canon’s lenses (and a great many third party lenses.).

The SL3 was released in April 2019, and it’s predecessor (and our previous pick), the Rebel SL2 , is likely to be available at a good price as a result. It’s a very similar camera, featuring the same sensor, but has around half the battery life and doesn’t support 4K video.

3. Nikon D7500

Moving up into the “prosumer” category of DSLR camera’s, and Nikon’s version is the D7500. This is Nikon’s high end APS-C camera, with a 20.9MP sensor, fast autofocus, a weather sealed body, and Wi-Fi. It also has a tilting 3.2″ touchscreen.

If you’re looking to upgrade from an existing consumer focused Nikon to something a bit more professional from the Nikon range, this is a good choice. However, you might prefer the lighter and just as fully featured Nikon Z50 instead.

4. Canon EOS 90D

5. Canon EOS 6D Mark II

Compared to its predecessor, and our previous favourite travel camera the Canon EOS 6D, the Mark II adds a touchscreen which swivels.

It’s solidly built, and well priced, having seen some great discounts since it launched at $1800. For a full-frame travel DSLR, we think this is a great bit of kit.

Just be aware that it’s only compatible with “EF” mount lenses – any “EF-S” mount lenses from other Canon bodies won’t work. If it’s a bit pricey, do consider the original 6D, which is still a fantastic travel camera and is very competitively priced nowadays.

What is the Best Budget Travel Camera?

As a bonus section – this is one of the most popular questions I’m asked when people ask me to help them choose the best travel camera, so I thought a section to help those of you with a fixed budget would help.

My suggestion for the best budget travel camera is one of the following cameras. Note that some of these are older and may no longer be in stock. As a result, you might want to pick them up second hand, see my guide to buying used cameras for tips on how and where to do that.

1. Nikon D3500

It also comes with the advantage that you get access to all the Nikon and Nikon compatible lenses, which is a huge choice. If you’re keen on an SLR, this is a great option at a fantastic price point.

2. Olympus OM-D EM-M10 III

It’s also cheaper since the launch of the Mark 4, meaning you can pick it up with a lens and be right on budget!

3. Sony RX100

With full manual controls and the ability to shoot in RAW, plus a 1-inch sensor and excellent image quality, this is far more than “just” a point and shoot.

As mentioned in the compact camera section above, there are various iterations of this model available, and you can pick up one of the earlier versions for a great price.

If you’re looking for a quick summary of the best travel camera on the market today, these would be our picks, ordered by camera type.

Sony RX100 range : If you’re just looking for a point and shoot camera that will take great photos with minimal input, then I’d suggest this range as a great option.
Panasonic Lumix ZS70 : If you are constrained by budget but want a good zoom, this is the best budget compact travel camera with a decent zoom.
Sony a6600 : If you want a great compact mirrorless camera, the Sony a6xxx range is the one to go for. The entry level model is the Sony a6100 , (discontinued in late 2021 but stock is still available) but if you can stretch to the a6600 that’s a better option as it has image stabilization and a touch screen.
Sony Alpha 7c II – if you want all the benefits of a full frame camera but in a compact package, this is the camera to go for. I think it’s the ideal camera for hiking or backpacking .
Sony Alpha a7 II – for a budget full frame mirrorless camera, this would be our choice. It’s also fantastic value. Note this is a bit older now, so the A7 III or A7 IV might be a better option depending on your budget.
Nikon D3500 : If you are looking for a DSLR for travel photography, I’d recommend this Nikon at the entry level
Canon EOS 6D Mark II : This is our pick for our favourite high end DSLR for travel photography, although we’d recommend a mirrorless camera to most users
Canon EOS R6 Mark II – An excellent compact full frame mirrorless camera with all the features you need. If your budget will stretch to it, also consider the Canon EOS R5 which is the camera I currently use

Hopefully this summary helps with your purchasing decision! If I was purchasing a camera today with no previous lenses, I would likely go with the Sony Alpha 7c if I wanted something lightweight.

As a Canon user with lots of lenses though, I’d go with the Canon EOS R6 Mark II or Canon EOS R5 . If you are a Nikon user with existing lenses, then I’d suggest the Nikon Z50 , the Nikon Z6 II or Z7 II .

When upgrading, it’s often easier to stay with the same manufacturer as the menu systems are usually going to be familiar, and your existing lenses might carry over.

Accessories for your Travel Camera

When budgeting for your travel camera, don’t forget to think about any accessories you might need.

If you’re planning to buy an interchangeable lens camera like a mirrorless or DSLR system, then you will obviously need a lens. Check out our guide to the best travel lenses here for some recommendations across a range of systems.

We’d also recommend considering some of the following accessories.

Travel can be rough on your photography gear, and so I recommend investing in a good photography bag.

Camera bags are specially designed to provide padding and protection for your gear, and many of them also come with rain covers. This means that you have somewhere safe, protected and padded to put your gear.

Personally, I use Vanguard photography bags and I’ve been an ambassador for Vanguard for many years now. If you see something on their store that works for your equipment, you can save money using our exclusive Vanguard discount code. This will give you 20% off everything in the Vanguard store.

Just use the code FindingTheUniverse for your discount! This code works in the Vanguard USA, UK, Australia, Spain, and Germany stores.

There are of course a range of other camera bags available, you can see the options on Amazon here and B&H Photo here .

External Hard Drive

When you travel, it’s important to be able to store your photos somewhere safe. To do this, we recommend investing in an external SSD.

The price of external SSDs has come down in recent years, so we would recommend one of these over a mechanical version as they are much faster, smaller, as well as being far less prone to losing data.

The external SSD we currently use by Adata is ruggedized and dust and water resistant. It also supports both Mac and PC users.

Photo Editing Software

To get the best out of your photos you are going to want to edit them, and to do that you’ll need a photo editing application!

There are a number to choose from, including paid options like Adobe Lightroom Classic CC , Skylum Luminar AI , and ON1 Photo RAW , as well as free options like Darktable and Fotor .

Deciding which to go for is a whole other decision. To help you out, I’ve put together a guide to the best photo editing applications , which has both paid and free options.

Accident Protection

A camera is a significant investment, and as such you might want to protect yourself from accidental damage.

The price of this varies depending on the cost of your camera gear, but a relatively small investment can provide peace of mind against a variety of common accidents, from liquid spills, to accidentally dropping it.

For some examples, here’s a 3 year accident protection plan for electronics valued between $1500 and $1999.99, whilst this one covers products between $800 and $899.

Note that both of these are only valid for qualifying purchases from Amazon.com. If you are shopping elsewhere, or direct from the manufacturer, check what they have available before purchasing if this is important to you.

It’s also possible to take out separate insurance, or that your homeowners insurance for example covers such things.

Backup Software

If you aren’t already backing up your photos, now is the time to change that. There’s no point having an awesome laptop to edit your photos on if you lose them all!

We have a complete guide to how to back up photos , which has a range of options and covers what to look for.

However, if you want an easy to use option with unlimited backups, then we use and recommend Backblaze . It’s well priced and in our experience is just works. You can try it out for free here .

Further travel photography reading and resources

And that summarizes my guide to the best travel camera for travel photography! Hopefully you found it useful. I’ll be keeping it up to date as new camera models come out and prices change.

In the meantime, if you’re looking for more resources to help you make the most out of your travel photography, check out the following resources I’ve put together:

My guide to picking the best lens for travel photography , which will be useful if you have a camera with interchangeable lenses.
My always expanding series of Photography Location Guides , to help you get the best shot in locations around the world.
I have a review of the Peak Design camera strap system as well as the Peak Design travel tripod
Photos need editing to get the best out of them. See our guide to the best photo editing software for our suggestions. If you’re looking for something to edit your photos on, see our guide to the best laptops for photo editing
An overview of my Travel Photography Gear , in case you wondered what a professional photographer has in his bag
Our guide to what to buy a photographer , which has gift ideas at every price point and experience level. For more general gift ideas, see our gift guide for travelers , and our tech gift buying guide .
A Beginners’ Guide to Improving your Travel Photos
My series of Photography Tips , which I am always expanding and updating with posts like this one. See our guides to northern lights photography , lens compression , back button focus , fireworks photography , taking photos of stars , cold weather photography , long exposure photography , RAW in photography , use of ND filters , depth of field and photography composition , which should get you going
If you like the photos on this blog, you’ll be pleased to hear they are all available for sale. Head on over to our photography sales page to place an order.

Looking to Improve Your Photography?

If you found this post helpful, and you want to improve your photography overall, you might want to check out my online travel photography course .

Since launching the course in 2016, I’ve already helped over 2,000+ students learn how to take better photos. The course covers pretty much everything you need to know, from the basics of how a camera works, through to composition, light, and photo editing.

It also covers more advanced topics, including astrophotography, long exposure photography, flash photography and HDR photography.

You get feedback from me as you progress, access to webinars, interviews and videos, as well as exclusive membership of a facebook group where you can get feedback on your work and take part in regular challenges.

It’s available for an amazing one-off price for lifetime access, and I think you should check it out. Which you can do by clicking here .

And we’re done! Thanks for reading – if you’ve got any comments, feedback or suggestions, just let me know in the comments below.

Tips and advice on how to pick the best camera for travel, including what to look for, and suggestions in every category including the best smartphone, compact, mirrorless and DSLR cameras for travel photography!

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There are 167 comments on this post

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Ian Andersen says

28th January 2024 at 10:29 am

Thanks for great and thorough reviews. I did not read through all of them and I was wondering if you could say which travel (super zoom) camera WITH GPS is better.

Laurence Norah says

28th January 2024 at 5:58 pm

Unfortunately, the majority of newer cameras don’t come with built-in GPS tagging functionality on the camera. Instead, if you find a camera which has WiFi and a companion smartphone app, they tend to pull the GPS info from the companion app. So really what you want is one of the travel cameras which has this feature. The Sony cameras in this list such as the RX100 do support this, and I believe the Panasonic ones do. However I’d recommend doing a search for each camera to ensure it does meet your requirements. Do you have a short list of cameras you like already, and I can look at trying to help.

29th January 2024 at 6:29 am

Thanks Laurence, I was a satisfied Lumix TZ user for many years up to – was it TZ 60 or 70 that still had the GPS built in. The argument for losing it was saving battery power but I found that carrying extra batteries was way simpler than using their clunky iPhone app. My latest is a TZ 202. Great pictures but annoying not to gave them tagged. I tried to switch to the SONY DSC-HX90V hoping for easier operation of the phone connection. Again, great photos but clunky GPS solution. So I am really hoping for a small (belt-carried) camera with GPS so I can get away from almost exclusively using my iPhone 15 pro.

29th January 2024 at 4:05 pm

I assure you, I feel your pain. I shot on a Canon 6D for a very long time and one of the features I loved was the built-in GPS tagging. Now I have an R5, and I have to use the Canon companion smartphone app for GPS tagging. Whilst it works pretty well, it’s another step I have to remember to do. It also eats up my smartphone battery if I forget to shut it off after shooting. About the only system I know of that still has built in GPS on a relatively compact camera is the Olympus Tough TG6, but that doesn’t have much of a zoom and is more designed as a rugged camera. So I’m not sure it will meet your needs, but one to look at.

Happy shooting 🙂

Farhana Farid says

29th September 2023 at 6:22 am

This guide on the best travel cameras is a game-changer for wanderlust enthusiasts like me! The detailed reviews and recommendations provide a clear understanding of which cameras are most suitable for capturing those breathtaking moments on the go. The consideration of factors like portability, image quality, and versatility is spot on. Thanks for making my travel photography decisions so much easier!

1st October 2023 at 10:13 am

My pleasure Farhana, I hope you find a great camera for your travels 🙂

Kevin Nalty says

15th October 2023 at 1:43 am

Hi. Agree- this is really thorough and didn’t overwhelm me. I’m curious what you think of the Canon EOS R50. I did a review of it in my blog (Willvideoforfood) but I’m not even remotely as informed. -Kevin

15th October 2023 at 12:14 pm

Thanks very much! So I think Canon has been hitting it out of the park recently with their mirrorless camera options and to be honest it’s almost hard to go wrong with whatever recent mirrorless model you pick up. The R50 specifically offers tremendous value and you get a lot of features, especially the autofocus system, which has the same features as you would find on their super high-end models like the R5 (which is what I use). In the old days of Canon they arbitrarily kept some features for their higher end models only, but that approach seems to be changing for the better which is good news for us consumers. The main downside with the R50 as you note in your review is a lack of optical image stabilization. I would also add that I don’t create video, so those areas of a camera are something I don’t review or use.

For anyone else reading this, now is honestly a great time to be buying a camera. The vast majority of recent releases have been excellent, with superb image quality and a solid range of features. As I said, it’s almost hard to go wrong 🙂

Thanks for stopping by!

Gurshabad Bakshi says

9th September 2023 at 6:02 am

Hi, awesome post. Very thoughtful and comprehensive. I have been reading your bogs and planned a visit to Bali based on your suggestions. I want to carry a leisure photography budget camera, that can click good photos and underwater videos and stuff. I have some questions for that. For what all activities and where all do you use Akaso Brave 7 camera? Is its image quality good enough? And if you could share some sample pics and viseos, it would be so very wonderful and helpful.

10th September 2023 at 3:02 pm

Hi Gurshabad!

So we honestly only use the Akaso (and any other action camera for that matter) for specific situations like underwater photography. The reason is that we personally have other cameras that are better for things like landscapes, and wildlife photography, but the Akaso is the only camera we have for underwater photography. So whilst it definitely works for that, we wouldn’t personally use it for everything just because we have other camera gear. However, if you are happy with the limitations, like not being able to zoom or adjust many settings, it could certainly work. I’m on a trip right now so don’t have access to all my images, so I can’t share samples unfortunately.

Hopefully this helps a bit. Have a great time in Bali 🙂

William says

22nd August 2023 at 11:10 pm

Great review and suggestions!. Thank you.

23rd August 2023 at 10:35 am

Thanks William!

Rachel says

3rd June 2023 at 8:47 pm

Thank you for this great article! I’m going to be traveling for my honeymoon soon, and decided I should upgrade from using my smartphone for all my photos to using an actual camera so I can get some printable quality photos. I’ve read a few lists like this one, but yours is the only one I’ve read that doesn’t just feel like a paid advertisement. I appreciate all the tips and advice you listed here. I now have a camera on my wishlist, thank you!

4th June 2023 at 7:03 pm

Hey Rachel! I’m so glad you found my article helpful, and many thanks for taking the time to let me know. I hope you enjoy your new camera, and if you have any questions as you continue your photography adventure feel free to reach out!

Claude AYMARD says

31st January 2023 at 8:15 pm

Hello, for you which can be the best safari travel camera easy to used for good photo quality -canon sx70 hs -canon m200 with 55-200mm -lumix tz100 -Lumix GX9 with 14-140mm thank’s in advance

1st February 2023 at 10:40 am

I do have a guide to the best safari cameras here which might help. However, from your list I would probably lean towards the Canon SX70HS for ease of use and also the great zoom means you can get good shots of further away subjects. My dad actually has the SX60 and he really likes it, we’re on safari right now and he is using it with good results.

Let me know if you have any more questions and bon voyage 🙂

9th August 2022 at 2:04 pm

10th August 2022 at 12:38 pm

Thanks Tanis!

9th July 2022 at 8:13 pm

Hello! I am so happy that I stumbled upon your website when researching for a trip to Iceland. I fell in love with photography when I was on my high school’s yearbook staff, a long long time ago. I have collected many SLR cameras over the years, manual and digital along with lenses (Nikon and Canon). Sadly, none of them have been used for several years and when I recently pulled them out, I realized how outdated they are. So…I am looking to sell everything (thanks for your amazing article on how to do that!) and start fresh. If you were me, with a budget of $2k-$4k, looking for a very high quality, relatively light weight camera system with the latest and best technology, what would you recommend? I would like one camera with two lenses at the most. Light weight enough that it’s easy to carry and use, without sacrificing image quality. Something that I can ‘grow into’ as a I renew my love of photography. Many thanks for sharing your expertise. Cheers!

10th July 2022 at 9:59 am

It’s great to hear from you, and I’m so pleased you have been finding the site useful so far!

With your requirement for something lightweight but that also has great image quality (and within budget of course) I would probably suggest the Sony Alpha 7c . Excellent autofocus, in body image stabilization, a full frame sensor and a weather sealed design, somehow all in a body that weighs about a 1lb.

If you wanted lighter, the Canon EOS RP is another full frame option which is fractionally lighter and also significantly cheaper, however you lose in body image stabilization and the focus tracking system isn’t quite as accomplished as the Sony in this model. It’s also slightly larger, despite being less heavy.

Both cameras have an excellent selection of lenses to choose from depending on what you want to photograph 🙂

Let me know if I can help any more!

17th April 2022 at 12:56 am

Hello Laurence, First off let me say thank you for such great articles, guides, advice and overview for someone who’s never been to Scotland and interested in touring the NC500. With that said, there are many great choices concerning camera & lens combinations in your article. Getting specific addressing the NC500 route, just what would be your best advice for focal lengths in reference to 35mm full frame? I see many wide to ultra wide images in the article, so inquiring about specific needs. Want to pack a 1-2 lens kit for this specific trip, and of course I’m thinking a tripod will be handy also!

17th April 2022 at 10:21 am

It’s our pleasure, I am pleased to have been of help. So I primarily travel with two lenses, a 16-35mm and a 70-200mm. Most of the landscape shots I take are with the wide angle, although there are sometimes nice opportunities to use the longer lens for isolating a subject. But if I was going to only take one lens it would be the wide-angle all the way.

Hopefully this answers your question! Let me know if I can offer any further input, I’m happy to help.

Edward says

31st January 2021 at 9:50 am

Hi, I was happy to read where you wrote “Personally, I love having a camera with GPS”. So do I, or rather so would I, but I am having trouble finding one that I like the look of. All I want is a compact camera with GPS and a viewfinder, with a useable zoom (say up to 200mm equivalent) and good image quality (which today would imply a sensor of 1″ or bigger). There is no such unicorn.

So what do you use, please, that gives you GPS? Or do you use an “add-on later” method like recording a GPS track and geotagging your photos later? I personally am reluctant to do that for a number of reasons, mainly that I travel for 3-6 months at a time (or at least I did when I could) without carrying a computer, so I would not only have a lot of geotagging to do later, but the on-the-road backup to Dropbox would not be geotagged.

31st January 2021 at 2:11 pm

I currently use a Canon 6D, which is a full frame DSLR. For a while Canon added GPS units to a number of their cameras, but unfortunately this useful feature has been missing from their newer models. For me it’s one of the most useful features to have, so I don’t like the omission. The reasoning is to do with battery life I suspect. GPS units take up power, and newer mirrorless cameras are already battery hungry. So leaving off the GPS is done in an effort to conserve battery power I suspect.

The good news is that many cameras today include the ability to pair with a smartphone app over Bluetooth or Wifi. When the camera takes a picture, it polls the smartphone app for location data, and embeds that in the photo. This of course does require extra setup, remembering to connect the camera to the phone before every shoot, and can drain your smartphone battery too. So it’s not amazing as an alternative, but it does at least work.

I believe that the Sony Image link app supports this for the Sony RX100 series, so with your requirements of a 200mm zoom and a 1″ sensor, the Sony RX100 VI or higher would be an option. Another option I believe would be the Panasonic ZS200.

Finally, another option, as you mention, is to use a third party GPS logger, either a standalone device or an app on your phone, that records the data and saves it, which you can then manually sync later. Again, it’s more work.

Overall, I would much prefer that manufacturers just add the GPS device and let us as users decide for ourselves if we want to use it and use up battery life. Hopefully it makes a reappearance as a standard feature!

1st March 2021 at 5:06 pm

Hello, thanks for the well thought-out response. It gives me a lot to think about, and if I do have to give up one or more of my checkboxes (or at least half of one, by needing to use a separate app), I may rethink them all – take a step back and ask myself what I really want to do, rather than ask what equipment will satisfy what I think are my wants. I suspect that the RX100 VI plus the app would be the nearest I could get. Or the Panasonic SZ200/TZ200 (or SZ100) plus its app. It is ironic that it seems that 1-inch sensor compacts really took off in the mid-2010s, just as manufacturers were deciding to drop GPS.

2nd March 2021 at 4:37 pm

My pleasure Edward! I would say that one of those would be the best option. It is certainly disappointing that this is no longer a standard feature!

Kyle O'Donnell says

16th December 2020 at 8:30 am

awesome list, you put it together very well 🙂 i got a Sony A6400 from amazon, it’s absolutely amazing, it really show in my vlogs.

16th December 2020 at 11:12 am

Thanks Kyle!

Charles Haskins says

29th April 2020 at 10:19 am

I have been reading through your responses to questions and I am astonished by the detail and the thoughtfulness of your answers. Quite apart from the photography info, it is a great lesson in human decency – great “customer service” for people who aren’t even customers really. I will definitely be following you in the future! Thank you!

29th April 2020 at 10:21 am

Hi Charlie,

Thanks very much, that’s kind of you to say. We do our best to try and answer everyone’s questions, be it photography or travel related 🙂 If folks have taken the time to read and leave a comment, then we feel it’s only right to answer if we can!

Thanks again for your comment, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions of your own!

All the best

29th February 2020 at 11:15 pm

I am quite new to photography. I purchased the M50 last summer (my first non-compact). I don’t know if it is my skills, the camera, or that I need better lenses, but so far I haven’t had much success getting sharp images.

1st March 2020 at 10:52 am

Sorry to hear about your issues. There are so many variables that go into what could make an image less sharp, from incorrect focus through to a lens issue. It’s hard to diagnose without seeing an image – do you have one somewhere online you can link to that I can take a look and provide some more insight? It would be best if it also shows the camera settings at the time – usually a site like flickr will save this info.

1st March 2020 at 4:27 pm

These aren’t all from the M50, but several of them are. Also, these happen to be the better ones: https://www.flickr.com/photos/me77777 . I feel like I have to sort through so many that aren’t as sharp as these to find a good one, but even some of the ones I’ve posted could certainly be sharper.

1st March 2020 at 4:41 pm

Thanks for sharing. So, some initial thoughts:

On this image of the lighthouse: https://www.flickr.com/photos/me77777/49596740501/in/photostream/

The camera is set to f/29. This is a super narrow aperture. Most lenses produce their sharpest images at around f/8, with sharpness falling off towards the edges wider than f/8 (i.e. f/5.6, f/4 etc). Above f/16, sharpness dramatically reduces due to an effect known as diffraction. It’s generally not advisable to go above f/16 for this reason. Performance will vary by lens, but as a general rule, f/8 – f/12 is a good range.

Of course, this doesn’t consider depth of field for composition. For landscapes, a wider depth of field is usually preferable, so you’d be looking at f/8 – f/16 in most cases. For portraits, a shallow depth of field would be preferable. Softness in portraits is less of an issue as you wouldn’t normally have the subject on the edge of the shot, so the softness wouldn’t be too noticeable.

Now, here’s another image of a church in a city: https://www.flickr.com/photos/me77777/49503917028/in/photostream/

So this was shot a 1/40th of a second at 200mm focal length. The longer the zoom, the harder it is to hold a camera steady. As a general rule of thumb, shutter speed should not be lower than the inverse of the focal length. So if you are shooting at 200mm, you would not use a shutter speed slower than 1/200th of a second. A 50mm focal length would be 1/50th of a second.

The file format you are shooting in will also make a difference. If you’re shooting in JPG, then the compression setting and sharpness setting in camera will make a big difference to the final image sharpness. Ideally you’d want to shoot in RAW, so you can edit sharpness after the fact.

These are just some ideas to start with. Something like this shot looks wonderfully sharp to me: https://www.flickr.com/photos/me77777/49498974486/in/photostream/

Happy to provide any more feedback if you have more specific images of course 🙂

https://www.flickr.com/photos/me77777/49503917028/in/photostream/

2nd March 2020 at 4:34 am

Thanks for taking the time to give feedback. You have an amazing site.

2nd March 2020 at 11:19 am

Thanks Craig – my pleasure 🙂

Natalie says

24th December 2019 at 1:05 pm

Thank you very much for collating all this information together- I do not feel nearly as overwhelmed as I did before!

I am going away travelling to India and South East Asia, and would like to both take great pictures in low light, and film a short documentary (so stability is also key without lugging a tripod around (Oof).

I am looking into purchasing a DSLR, budget however is a concern. This will be my first time camera, however I have a little experience in film cameras (mostly SonyPMW200).

I am currently looking at the Nikon D750…can you recommend something cheaper and still great for filming? I guess the Nikon D5300?

Nikon also seems to be cheaper for lenses than Canon- what would you reccomend?

Any suggestions would be great. Thanks so much

24th December 2019 at 2:53 pm

Hi Natalie,

Thanks very much!

So I have to be honest, video is not an area of expertise for me. However, if you want to shoot stable video without a tripod, you are going to need to think about how you are going to stabilize your camera. Without a tripod, your best bet is going to be some kind of camera stabilization. Currently, the Canon and Nikon DSLR’s don’t offer this in camera, so you would need to rely on a lens with image stabilization built in.

Alternatively, you could look for a camera with image stabilization built in. I’m not sure what your budget is all in, but one of the micro four thirds cameras from Olympus or Panasonic might be a good option. These are notable for producing great video, have a wide choice of lenses, and most importantly, have built in image-stabilization in the camera body. The Olympus Om-D E-M10 Mark 3 is currently on sale all over the place with a lens. For video and low light, you will benefit from a wide aperture prime lens, such as the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 .

I appreciate this might not be the answer you were looking for, but if video is important, I think this might be a better direction to go in than a DSLR. All the capabilities are the same, the only disadvantages are a reduced battery life and a slightly smaller sensor. However, by using a wide aperture lens you can make up for the reduced low light performance.

I hope this helps – I’m happy to discuss further of course!

20th December 2019 at 1:17 am

Sorry I visited your site but couldn’t read a thing. Please fix the site. Best regards

20th December 2019 at 10:46 am

Thanks for your comment. Could you clarify perhaps what you couldn’t read and what i need to fix? The site loads ok on all our devices, but if you can let me know what device and browser you are using, and what specifically is not working, then I will be happy to take a look,

Martha Dobson says

3rd November 2021 at 4:02 pm

Website was beautiful, I think that this man is lying to you about the website not being legible.

3rd November 2021 at 6:07 pm

Thanks Martha!

Marije says

17th December 2019 at 8:47 am

Hi Laurence,

Thank you so much for this very insight- and helpful review. I’m looking to buy a compact camera with good optical zoom possibilities for photographing people, landscapes and wildlife during my holidays. As I’ll be visiting Swedish Lapland for a week of winterfun, I would like a camera that will also be Able to capture the northern light (autora). Which compact camera will be a good or even the best choice. Was Leaning towards a Sony Cybershot DSC-RX 100 series but found vi and vii quite expensive anD not shure about optical zoom of v. Love to hear your opinion.

17th December 2019 at 9:14 pm

So I would say probably the next best option after the RX100 would be the Panasonic Lumix ZS100 or ZS200. The Canon Powershot G3X is another good option as it has a 1 inch sensor and a 25x zoom lens. I have to say, northern lights photography is a challenge for any camera though, even a full frame DSLR. So while you will definitely be able to get photos with a compact camera, just be aware of its limitations. I have some tips on taking taking photos of the northern lights here , which might be worth a read.

Otherwise, let me know if you have any more questions – and have a great trip!

22nd October 2019 at 8:36 am

How about the Panasonic G90/95? It has all bells and whistles of GX9 and much more (like UHS-II support, stronger IS and focus stacking). It has a comfortable grip and a rugged body, a swivel touch screen, unlimited video shooting, mic and headphones port (hello vloggers!). Similar to GX9 it can be charged via usb but comes with an external charger and both can be charged via a powerbank with 2 ports! I’m almost happy with my gx9 but miss the weather sealing and the mic port. If Pana doesn’t release a gx10 with these 2 features I’ll go for the G90.

24th October 2019 at 12:51 pm

The G90/95 is certainly an excellent camera, although is at a bit of a price premium compared to the GX9 so isn’t directly comparable in my mind. However, if it fits what you are looking for you should definitely go for it – this list is by no means definitive (hence the long section at the beginning to help people decide).

Enjoy your new camera, whatever it turns out to be!

lalan kalansooriya says

15th September 2019 at 12:36 pm

Hi I am bigginer to the photography and i wish to buy a camera. I love to travel photography. My budjet is about 300$. So I would like to know what are the recomended cameras for me

15th September 2019 at 2:25 pm

At $300 you will definitely be looking at either a mid-range compact camera or a lower end DSLR. There aren’t many mirrorless cameras at that price point unfortunately, unless you go second hand. In terms of compact cameras, I’d suggest either the Lumix DC-ZS70 or the Sony RX100 .

For DSLRs, consider the Nikon D3400 or the EOS Rebel T6 .

10th August 2019 at 8:23 am

Hi Laurence and Jessica, Just a quick thank you message to say that this is the first article I read (and I ‘ve read quite a few!) that really explains things about cameras in a clear way! Im new to travel photography and was looking for info on how and where to start from. Thanks a lot!

11th August 2019 at 11:38 am

Our pleasure! We’re always happy to hear that we’ve been able to help people, and believe me, I know that photography is not the easiest topic to get to grips with 🙂 Let us know if you ever have any questions!

Stuart Svoboda says

21st July 2019 at 6:03 pm

Thanks for your thoughtful and comprehensive advice. Obviously, budget plays a big role in most people’s decisions and there are few aspects of photography that don’t involve some compromise. However, for those who are willing to part with a bit more cash in pursuit of a supremely capable yet practical alternative, you missed at least one significant choice and that’s the Lumix G9. My G9, battery grip, lenses (mostly Leica, covering the 35mm-eq range from 16-800mm), spare batteries, flash/soft box, filters, etc. (including an Olympus TG-5, which I agree is a great, bomb-proof, go-anywhere camera) all fit into a small pack that weighs 6400) ISO noise with moving subjects. Big deal (looks more like film anyway). A much more compact (although not pocket-sized) and far cheaper alternative that still produces great IQ (stills and 4K video–much better than a 1/2.3) is the Lumix FZ1000. The first-gen (which I got for c.US$600) is still available and a great bargain (IMHO, the best price/performance value currently available). The Mk II adds some nice features but has the same great 1″ sensor and 25-400mm-eq Leica lens. If you can’t get great images under most conditions with that, it’s not the camera… And no, I don’t work for Panny–they just make great cameras (performance and ergonomics). Bottom line: the IQ achievable in most conditions from even “mid level” cameras these days is more than enough for most purposes–much beyond that is overkill (but some of us like overkill on occasion).

Thanks for your blog.

21st July 2019 at 6:32 pm

Thanks Stuart! We also like the Panasonic gear, I’ve had a G6 and still use the GX8 on a regular basis. There just wasn’t room for every camera on the list, but we certainly appreciate your recommendation and no doubt folks reading the post will find your input useful as well 🙂

Sandra says

11th July 2019 at 7:50 pm

Thanks for such a great article! I am wondering what you think of the new Canon PowerShot G5 X Mark II which was announced July 9th and is due in stores August 1st. How do you think it compares to others in your compact camera list? I am taking a 3-week trip to China in September and want a great travel camera. Looked at the Sony RX100 VI but it felt very small in my 73-year-old hands and I missed it not having a grip. I am replacing a very old Canon G16. Thanks for any input you can share!

12th July 2019 at 4:19 am

I’ve been reading up on these two cameras and they both look very promising. I would say that they would probably be excellent, but I’ve not been able to personally try them out as yet. However, if you are used to Canon, it would be a logical step to buy one of these two, and I am confident you will be happy with the performance. I’ll be updating this post in the near future, but likely after your trip. In the meantime though, I am still happy to recommend them on spec as the price / specifications are great.

Candy Luong says

24th June 2019 at 8:45 pm

Thank you for the well-written review! I am on the market to purchase an upgrade from a 2011 Canon Rebel T3i with a couple of EF lens. I am conflicted between upgrading to a DSLR or mirrorless camera for travel and leisure photography. What I look for in an upgrade is WIFI, GPS, lightweight, adaptability to the canon lens, and does not break the bank (max $1500) for a full kit. Is there a mirrorless camera that has a proven adapter for canon lens? I’ve looked into the Canon EOS RP but the price point for a full kit is insanely expensive. What would you recommend?

25th June 2019 at 1:38 am

So the Canon EOS RP would be my recommendation – with the adaptor the body only should come in under your budget, and it will work great with the Canon lenses you have. If you move to another manufacturer, I think you will struggle to get a full frame camera for any less money, and the adaptors are not so good as they have to do a conversion between the electronic systems, which usually results in slower performance. The only thing missing from the EOS R is built in GPS, however the low energy bluetooth capabilities mean you can sync GPS from your phone without too much battery drain.

If it’s still too much, you might consider a second hand Canon 6D or 6D Mark 2, which are both great cameras. I still shoot full time with the original 6D and have no complaints. GPS is one of my favourite features on it, and I wish more cameras had it as a default!

I hope this helps!

Kathy Golden says

17th June 2019 at 11:27 pm

I just happened upon your website while researching DSLR cameras and I found a treasure-trove of information! Thank you so much for this thorough and informative blog. It is very helpful. I hope to compare mirrorless and DSLRs for both travel and “family” photography.

19th June 2019 at 4:18 pm

My pleasure, let me know if you have any questions!

6th June 2019 at 11:50 am

Really found this article useful – thanks!

Soon, I am quitting my job and going travelling for the ‘foreseeable future’ – yay fun!

I love taking pictures generally (e.g., smartphones or on friends cameras). But knowing I am going travelling, I would love to capture some great quality shots and edit them myself etc along the way. Although a ‘first purchase’, I need it to be high quality so that it is worthwhile over a smartphone, worth the financial investment, and worth carrying around. I am very likely to take a look into some of your courses too before I go (so that I actually CAN capture some good moments) – with this in mind, what would you recommend?

Many thanks in advance!! Flo

6th June 2019 at 12:02 pm

My pleasure! So it will depend on how much you want to carry with you. If it’s a minimal amount, then you’d be better off with a high end point and shoot, like the Lumix ZS200 or the Sony RX100 series. These both take excellent photos, have full manual controls and even shoot in RAW.

If you want to step up above that there are many choices. For travel, I’d recommend probably a mirrorless camera to keep the weight down, paired with one or two lenses. At this point it will come down to your budget – all the mirrorless cameras on this list will do a great job, but they are at different price points, starting with less expensive and then getting more expensive! At the higher end, I’d suggest perhaps the Canon EOS RP, whilst at the lower end, the Sony a6000 or Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III.

Let me know if I can help any more 🙂

6th June 2019 at 7:32 am

Hi thank you for such wonderful tips. Im no expert. I would really appreciate some guidance. I own iphone x and photos are great. But for travel I d also need a solid zoom for vast landscapes. I ve been looking into Panasonic, I like idea of Leica lens… what I d like is what can i get up to 1000 usd ( preferabbly less) that would make sense to get better photography then iphone x, a good zoom and still a nice looking not too big camera. Thank you 🙂

6th June 2019 at 11:40 am

So based on your requirements for a smaller camera, I’d say either the Sony RX 100 VI or the Lumix ZS200. They both offer a good zoom range and good image quality, as well as manual controls.

You could look into mirrorless cameras too, but to get a good zoom you’d need a larger lens, and it wouldn’t be so compact!

Let me know if you need any more information, I’m happy to help 🙂

12th May 2019 at 10:46 am

Hi .. I am a Nikon d5300 (with two lenses 18-55mm and 55-200mm lenses) user and I need to buy a compact camera with dslr quality lesser in weight .. please suggest

12th May 2019 at 7:16 pm

So if you want something really compact then the Sony RX100 range is a good option. The quality is great for a compact camera, and you also get full manual controls. If you just want something a bit smaller, then you might consider one of the mirrorless options, but they aren’t always a lot smaller, so a compact is likely to be a better option.

Thomas Mygind says

1st June 2019 at 7:38 am

If you want the smallest Full Frame option – then this basis option weighs 450 gram + EF-lenses. Cannon M100 + Viltrox 0.71x adapter makes your APS-C into a full frame eqvivalent.

Then add any EF-lens you like -for example: Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM Lens 33.5 oz (950g) 3.3 x 4.9″ (83 x 124mm) 77mm 2002 Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Lens 13.4 oz (380g) 2.9 x 2.8″ (73 x 70mm) 67mm 1996 Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM Lens 23.7 oz (670g) 3.3 x 4.2″ (83.5 x 107mm) 77mm 2005 Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM Lens 13.2 oz (375g) 2.8 x 3.0″ (72 x 75mm) 58mm 2000 Canon EF 28-105mm f/4.0-5.6 USM Lens 7.4 oz (210g) 2.6 x 2.7″ (67 x 68mm) 58mm 2002 Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Lens 19.1 oz (540g) 3.1 x 3.8″ (78 x 97mm) 72mm 1998 Canon EF 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6 USM Lens 17.6 oz (500g) 3.1 x 3.5″ (78 x 90mm) 72mm 2000

9th May 2019 at 11:20 am

Hi, I’m relatively new to serious photography, but I’ve long had an interest in photo editing and am now wanting to learn more about the actual photography part of it. As it is, you’ve pretty much sold me on the Nikon D3500 since it sounds like an excellent option to learn from without being too expensive, though I’m also considering the D5300 for its video capabilities (from what I’ve found) and the GPS option. Can you recommend a few additional lenses, ideally at least one for further away shots? Particularly for some darker areas.

Whatever the case, this guide has taught me quite a bit and given me a lot to think about. Thank you for that.

11th May 2019 at 9:03 pm

Delighted to have been of assistance. So my first recommendation would be to check out our guide to the best travel lenses, which has a number of options for Nikon. You can see that here:

https://www.findingtheuniverse.com/best-lenses-for-travel-photography/

The criteria you have (long lens that is good in low light) does unfortunately bring you into the more costly type of lens – you need a wide aperture to capture more light, and all the glass ends up costing more. I’d suggest looking for a lens with a f/4 or faster aperture (f/2.8 would be ideal), and 200mm to 400mm focal length.

Happy to provide some more specific suggestions if my linked post doesn’t do it for you 🙂

13th May 2019 at 9:39 am

Hey Laurence,

You make a compelling point, as did the price tags once I looked into what you suggested. I’ll add that to my “eventual” list once I’ve gotten good enough to justify the cash.

I ordered a D3500 bundle “w/AF-P DX 18-55mm & 70-300mm Zoom Lens” and “55mm Wide Angle & Telephoto Lens”. Seemed like a fair way to start (though I wish I’d have ordered it a few hours prior because I missed a nice sale, haha).

I’m keeping this page bookmarked, there’s so much to learn and I appreciate the help. I had to check out your guide on San Francisco since that’s part of why I wanted a new camera: I’m taking a trip up that way later this year and am planning on making the most of it – I live in California, but I’ve never spent much time that way since it gets expensive fast – including a few museums, Grace Cathedral, Chinatown, and several other areas. Now I’ve just got to practice a lot in the next 3 1/2 months so that I can manage something awesome by then.

Thanks again, this has been incredibly helpful.

13th May 2019 at 6:34 pm

It’s absolutely my pleasure, and please do reach out if you ever have any more questions about photography or travel, and I’ll do my best to help out. Enjoy your new gear, I’m sure you’ll be very happy with it!

4th May 2019 at 10:06 pm

Great website!

I will be going to Europe this summer and I intend to take many HDR pics. I currently have a Nikon D3400. (I prefer the APS-C cameras to the full frame cameras because I like the lighter weight, especially for travel.). I like the camera except for the fact that it has no exposure bracketing at all. This makes HDR photography, especially of tourist sites that might have people walking in the distance, slightly difficult. My question is: Should I take the D3400 to Europe or purchase the latest Canon Rebel, with which I can do 3 quick shots continuously?

Please consider: I have compared my Nikon to my old Canon T3i. Using the same settings for both, the Nikon seems to take better pictures when I compare the exact same shots side by side. Is that just my imagination or is that due to the very slightly larger sensor?

So, again, the choice is: 1) take the Nikon, which seems to take good pics, and be forced to take all my HDR shots manually? (The advantage there is that I could take 5 or more.); OR 2) buy a new Canon T7 or T7i and be able to take 3 quick shots at different exposures? (I don’t mind the extra cost if you find it is the best choice.)

I would appreciate any advice you can provide.

Thank you very much for your time and consideration to this matter.

5th May 2019 at 9:48 am

Thanks! So the sensor size probably doesn’t make that much difference, but the sensor technology likely will. The T3i was released in 2011, and it’s hard to really compare that against a much newer camera, as sensor technology moves on every year. I would say that the newer Canon would likely be comparable. It’s definitely frustrating that the Nikon cameras in the D3xxx range don’t have exposure bracketing, that’s a real omission by Nikon. I would say that if this is something that is important to you, and you don’t have a wide selection of Nikon lenses, that you might find the Canon more suited to your specific needs. I also can’t speak for the T7i, but on my Canon 6D, I can set it to take 3 or 5 shots for the exposure bracketing 🙂

Best of luck, and have a great trip!

22nd April 2019 at 7:03 am

Thank you for your great article. It is well-written and informative. I notice in your picture comparing sensor size, that Nikon’s aps-c is larger than the Canon aps-c. Is Nikon’s significantly better than Canon’s in terms of the final picture? What is the measurable difference between the two, in terms of pixels and/or quality? Should I base my decision on that? Thanks again

22nd April 2019 at 10:30 am

There is not a big difference between the two to be honest, the small size difference is not big enough to make a real world difference in my opinion, certainly not enough to make a purchase decision on 🙂

Mohit Chupra says

21st April 2019 at 9:57 am

Hi , after read the content i understand that there a lot of good value entry -level DSLR cammers .

21st April 2019 at 11:22 am

That is correct, DSLR cameras are great value for sure 🙂

20th April 2019 at 2:27 pm

Hi, I currently have galaxy s10 and thinking of buying Famon g7x for travelling. The main purpose of the trip is the northern lights. Would g7x worth buying? Or would s10 do the trick? Thanks

20th April 2019 at 3:25 pm

So the Canon G7x does have a larger sensor than a smartphone, and will therefore be better for northern lights photography. Smartphones are capable of taking pictures of the northern lights, but they won’t produce the best results. Either way, you will definitely want a tripod as otherwise you will get blurry pictures. I have a full guide to taking pictures of the northern lights you might want to check out too.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Sanjeev Rai says

12th April 2019 at 7:34 pm

I am going on a family trip to Europe covering Italy Switzerland and Paris . Looking into various videos of gopro I am inclined to buy go pro but not sure how much I will utilize as I am not into adventure sports. Although I feel a good family video covering mountains and beach will be cool. Also thinking of buying Nikon D3500 or May be both . Totally confused . I am not a photography enthusiast but regularly travel and wants to keep memories of my trips . Pleas guide

12th April 2019 at 7:44 pm

Hey Sanjeev,

So a GoPro is good as a general point and shoot action camera that will survive most situations. It’s also great for video. However, it has limitations – you can’t zoom, and it takes very wide angle photos. So things will seem further away. This is great for action sports and so on, but not really ideal for landscape photography.

If you want something pocketable that does great quality, I’d probably suggest one of the compact cameras on our list, or a mirrorless cameras. Most of these also do good video as well 🙂

Sanjeev says

13th April 2019 at 11:50 am

Thanks Laurence

I have budget of USD 500 . Will see which one fits the budget. Also may be GOPro + IPhone 7

13th April 2019 at 2:18 pm

Best of luck 😀

7th April 2019 at 7:18 pm

Hi – I’ve been a portrait photographer for too many years to say 🙂 and have always used Canon. At the moment we have 2 5d mark iii and one 7d at the studio with multiple lenses. I have finally made a decision to follow my passion and start traveling to shoot more landscapes and small towns. Weight is the biggest issue for me, however, quality of camera and lens is too. I’ll be headed for Europe then Asia this fall so I have some time but I’m trying to figure it out now. Any advice would greatly be appreciated.

7th April 2019 at 7:27 pm

Ah, the old conundrum – weight vs quality! Personally, we travel with a pair of Canon 6D’s and usually three lenses, a wide angle, a 70-200 (plus 2x convertor for wildlife) and a fast prime.

The key is a good strap for the camera (we love the Peak Design straps) and a good bag.

If I was you, and used to the Canon system (which I am), I would stay with it. I’d probably also suggest sticking with full frame. If size is the predominant issue, mirrorless cameras can help a bit, but not as much as folks might make out, because often so much of the weight is in the lens anyway.

I would probably be tempted by the Canon EOS RP. It’s a full frame mirrorless camera that, with a mount, will be compatible with all your EF (and even EF-S) lenses. It’s very compact for a full frame mirrorless camera.

If you want to just start over, and don’t mind investing in new lenses, then I might suggest something like the Fuji X-T30, which produces really lovely images. My only concern with shifting to a new system is that Canon is really great and colour, and other camera systems may not be as good as you used to (this is a reason many photographers I know have not shifted to the Sony mirrorless system for example).

I hope this response helps a bit! Let me know your thoughts 🙂

7th April 2019 at 10:04 pm

Hi Laurence, Thank you for your quick reply. I agree about the Sony, as we are so invested in all Canon lenses it makes it hard to change. I have, however, been very interested in the mirrorless camera and now with Canon’s out I have contemplated it but don’t see it being so much better than the 5diii except of course the weight, (which is what I need) I also worry that the battery doesn’t last long and even if I use an attachment won’t it slow down my lens? Deb

7th April 2019 at 11:38 pm

Canon has designed the mount adaptor so it just works like a passthrough. There’s no impact on the lenses. I know this has been an issue with other systems, like using the Canon lenses on Sony cameras, you lose autofocus speed and sometimes stops of light, but Canon didn’t want that to happen so the lenses should work just as well as if they are native.

To be honest, the performance won’t be massively improved over the 5D Mark III which is a great camera. If you are happy travelling with that, then go for it. But if size is a consideration, I’d say it’s the best option that would also let you use your existing lenses.

Carrie says

4th April 2019 at 9:16 pm

Thanks for the reply.

It’s a little difficult for me to describe how looking through a viewfinder on a non-DSLR camera affects my eyes. For many photos I prefer using the viewfinder, but for other photos I really like having the articulated screen.

I’m leaning toward the Canon EOS Rebel SL2 or one of the Nikon’s with an articulated screen (the good thing about a Nikon is my boyfriend has Nikon cameras and we might be able to share lenses). It’s just a matter of finding the right Nikon.

5th April 2019 at 12:04 pm

My pleasure. So it sounds like a DSLR is the right kind of camera for you. I would definitely recommend Nikon if your boyfriend has Nikon already, as this will save you the hassle of multiple lenses. When Jess and I got together, she had Nikon and I had Canon, and we just decided we’d merge everything to Canon to make life easier.

In terms of cameras, the Nikon D5600 is probably the best option as it comes with the tilting screen. You could also pick up the D5500 for a lower price if budget is a concern.

3rd April 2019 at 10:09 pm

The current camera I’m using is a Nikon B700, which I like for its small size, articulated screen, and super-zoom. However, the image quality seems to have deteriorated a lot in the two years I’ve had it and I now am having issues with using the viewfinder (my dry eyes are making it difficult to see what I’m trying to focus on because I’m looking at a tiny screen). So I think it’s time to switch to a DSLR or mirrorless camera. Mirrorless might be better because of the smaller size, but having never used one I don’t know how my eyes will handle it.

Any recommendations for a good, smaller DSLR or mirrorless with a good zoom and an articulated screen? My father has been using Panasonic Lumix cameras for years and has been very happy with his results.

4th April 2019 at 12:12 pm

So for DSLR and mirrorless cameras, these don’t come with a fixed lens, meaning you can change the lens to something that meets your requirements. However, there are not many lenses out there that would offer the sort of zoom you might be used to with the B700, that would also be smaller. So even if the camera body ends up being smaller, the overall package would be fairly large. Bridge cameras like the one you have are a fairly specific product and the main way they have been able to differentiate from all the other types of camera out there is by offering these pretty incredible zoom lenses.

I am a little confused though – the B700 has a screen, so I am wondering why you would not be using that for the focus? If the viewfinder is too small, this will be a similar problem with viewfinders on other cameras too I think.

I just don’t want to recommend a camera that doesn’t actually solve the problem!

2nd April 2019 at 6:52 pm

Hi, I have been looking into the Sony RX100 VÍ and the brand new Lumix FZ 1000 II. I want zoom, big sensor, tilting LCD, and low light capability. My only concern is size of the Lumix since my primary use will be for travel. Please help! What are your thoughts?

2nd April 2019 at 7:12 pm

So both cameras actually have the same size sensor, which is the 1″ sensor. The FZ1000 II definitely has more zoom, but it is much less compact. However, it also has a longer battery life and a tilting / swivel screen.

Personally if a compact camera is what you want, I would go for the Sony as it will slip into a pocket or purse. The Lumix definitely won’t. I don’t think image quality will be much different, although there are not many reviews on the FZ1000 II as it’s so new.

I hope this helps 🙂

2nd April 2019 at 7:24 pm

Thank you so much. It definitely helps.

Donna F. says

26th March 2019 at 1:43 am

This article is super! And, so is findingtheuniverse.com – I’ve learned so much as I am researching what camera to purchase. Any recommendations would be welcomed. I want a compact camera to travel with me on my motorcycle. It will need to endure a lot of vibration. I’d like for it to fit in a jacket pocket or tank bag. And, I’ll be taking pictures of landscapes, awesome views and interesting people.

26th March 2019 at 1:53 pm

Thanks very much Donna – delighted to be able to help!

So if you think the camera is going to be subjected to a pretty rough time, you might consider the Olympus TG-5 Waterproof Camera . It’s a good camera, although the 4x optical zoom, whilst good, may not be perfect for everything. It’s certainly the toughest camera in our list though.

If image quality and more zoom is more important, and you think you can trade off a bit of the survivability factor, I might consider either the Panasonic Lumix ZS100 or the Sony RX100 VI . These both have more manual controls as well as a larger image sensor, so the image quality will be higher. The Sony is at quite a premium price point though, so you would definitely want a good case to protect it!

I hope this helps a bit 🙂

Let me know if I can help out any further!

Nowshad Rahman says

24th March 2019 at 4:18 pm

I was looking for features the basic travel camera and this helped a lot. Thanks for the insightful article. Sony RX100 VI is good for travel?

24th March 2019 at 4:24 pm

It certainly is. It is definitely a premium compact camera, but the combination of image quality, manual controls, and the impressive zoom and autofocus performance make it probably the best compact camera for travel on the market today 🙂

Mallory J says

20th March 2019 at 4:42 am

Looking for some input… I have a Nikon D80. I used to do newborn photography some years ago. It worked fine for me then. Had my own kids, moved on in my career and on the side we travel a ton. The Nikon is clearly older and the whole set up is too heavy to travel with (I have 4 lenses total for it, however only use the my 24mm and 50mm. Rarely the 125 as I felt the quality was bad and never the telephoto that I bought with it. Anyhow, years later I know nothing about photography anymore and am looking for something other than my phone (iPhone xsmax). I want better, easier and more convenient than the D80. I like the blurry backgrounds (see I can’t even remember the correct terminology for this) and clear photos for nature and sports. My questions is, right off the bat, is there a camera that stands out? Do I go Nikon and continue to use my lenses and forgo the weight? Do I get something new, compact, same brand, different brand?

20th March 2019 at 10:22 am

Hi Mallory,

The word you are looking for is bokeh 😉

Ok, so this is a bit of a challenging question. SInce you already have lenses, my initial response would be to consider maybe the Nikon Z6 . Whilst this is pretty much identical in size to the D80, it’s a mirrorless camera with a full frame sensor, so you will be getting a marked step up in image quality and capability in a camera that is the same size. There’s also a Nikon adaptor so your existing lenses should work, although you’ll want to check compatibility. You should also find it easier to pick up as the menu system will be similar.

If size / cost is more of a consideration, then I think you would want to consider a mirrorless camera and look to invest in a couple of lenses. If you are happy with prime lenses then this is great because they tend to be cheaper and higher quality.

I’d say perhaps the Canon RP, or the Fujifilm X-T30 would be a great starting point, depending on budget 🙂

Happy to answer any follow up questions of course!

5th March 2019 at 9:33 am

Hi, thanks for you great article about various compact/travel cameras. I am planning to buy a new camera. I am trying to decide between Canon m50, Canon 200d, Nikon d5600 as well as Canon g3x. I live in humid area & that’s why I am concerned & also bit worried about that. I don’t have budget to buy expensive camera that have weather sealing. Canon g3x. does have weather sealing but then it have only 1 inch sensor (I do need camera which takes great quality images, video making is not my priority). Moreover, I also want to have a touchscreen. Kindly help me in this regard. Thanking you for the same

5th March 2019 at 12:09 pm

So based on your requirements and budget (I am assuming your budget based on the cameras you are looking at), I am going to suggest a totally different camera to those which you have been looking at.

My suggestion is either the Pentax KS-2, the Pentax K70 or the Pentax KP.

These are all APS-C sized sensor SLR camera which are weather sealed. They are also great value for a weather sealed camera.

The only disadvantage is that they do not come with touchscreens. I know this is something you want, but it might be a decision between weather sealing and a touchscreen at this price point. If the touchscreen is more important, I would suggest the Canon m50.

8th March 2019 at 11:35 am

Thanks for your reply. Kindly let me know why you suggested Canon m50 and also are mirrorless camera more sensitive to moisture/dust than DSLR? Thanks

8th March 2019 at 2:13 pm

So a mirrorless camera is more sensitive to dust than a DSLR. This is because there’s no mirror protecting the sensor, and every time you change lenses the sensor is exposed to the elements. In terms of moisture, I would not say there is a significant difference. A mirrorless camera has more electronic parts if you include the screen, so in theory more could go wrong, but I would say in the real world this isn’t likely to be a big issue.

I recommended the M50 as it’s a great compact mirrorless camera that is easy to use and produces quality results. However, a compact DSLR from Canon or Nikon would also be a good choice. Honestly, most cameras these days will take great photos in the right hands, the technology has come along very far. It’s just question of what has the specific specifications you need.

8th March 2019 at 2:26 pm

Thank you sooo much for your swift response. And thank you for clearing my doubts too. Actually I had almost decided to buy canon m50 but due to doubt about absence of mirror may make it more sensitive, I have narrowed down my choices to Nikon D5600 and Canon 200d. But still confused cause Nikon D5600 have 39 AF points whereas Canon 200d have just 9 and canon have dual pixal Autofocus. My priority is for stills. Kindly let me know if more Autofocus points are really that important. And please help me to decide between these two models. Thank you soo much for helping me out.

8th March 2019 at 7:49 pm

A lot of autofocus points can be useful if you are shooting fast action or wildlife photography. Otherwise it’s not too critical. I have a Canon 6D which is my primary camera, which I think has 9 autofocus points, and I’ve never found I needed more!

4th March 2019 at 8:24 pm

Hello, hope you’re doing well. I love your web page ❤️ I have some months suffering and searching information about a digital camera. I am interested for full frame & Mirrorless Camera for my work as a Aesthetician , and for travel also , I have considered Canon G7 X Mark II but im not pretty sure if it good for photography. Suggest me one good camera or good lenses for travel, fashion, makeup . Good bless you and thankful if you wanna respond

5th March 2019 at 3:03 pm

If you’re interested in a full frame mirrorless camera, I’d say that the Sony A7II would be a good option. The G7X Mark II is a lighter and more compact camera, but you can’t change the lenses, and it doesn’t have a full frame sensor.

Other options include the Canon EOS RP, Canon EOS R, Nikon Z series, and the more recent Sony A7 III, although this is somewhat more expensive now than the version 2.

For lenses, there’s a huge choice. I’d suggest a walk around lens for general travel photography, and then a fast prime lens for portrait work. A 50mm f/1.8 lens would be good for that. I have a guide to travel lenses you can see here:

Mick England says

3rd March 2019 at 3:53 pm

This may have been written before the D7500 came out as you state: “This is Nikon’s high end APS-C camera, with a 20.9MP sensor, fast autofocus, a weather sealed body, dual SD card slots and Wi-Fi.” In fact Nikon actually dropped the dual card slot that was present in the 7200 but the D7500 is nevertheless an excellent camera and I have never had a card fail on me.

3rd March 2019 at 4:05 pm

Hi Mick! Thanks for the catch 🙂 I’ve updated the description of the D7500. I too have never had an SD card fail on me in any camera, although I appreciate some folks like the peace of mind – especially for critical work like weddings and other event photography.

22nd February 2019 at 12:54 am

Hi, I have come across your website while I am searching for best travel camera. I am very limited knowledge about camera and planning to get my first ever camera. Thinking of getting either sony or canon. I am going to visit Euroup in 2 months and need travel camera for both photo and video capturing. May I request for your recommendation please? Thanks in advance ~

23rd February 2019 at 7:27 am

I would likely recommend a mirrorless camera like the EOS M100 as they are easy to pick up and use, and also easy to learn. However, I don’t know your budget – the M100 is at the low end of the budget (although it’s still a great choice). However, if you have more money to spend, there are other options too 🙂

12th February 2019 at 9:36 am

Hey there, I want to buy a travel system camera because my DSLR is just too heavy to carry around all the time. I‘m currently trying to decide between the sony a6000 and sony a63000. So far, from what i‘ve heard it seems like there‘s no big difference between the two cameras that justifies the much higher price of the newer model. However, since i‘m planning to go to south east asia, i‘m not sure how important it is for me to have a camera that‘s water and dust resistant (as the a6300 is). What‘s your experience? Is the a6000 likely to survive rainy season (pf course i‘m going to put my camera in the rain either way) or is worth investing 300€ more for that feature? Thank you!

12th February 2019 at 5:31 pm

I would probably lean towards the a6000 – it’s less costly, and weather sealing won’t make a camera waterproof unfortunately – you’re better off just trying to keep it dry 🙂 The a6300 is a decent camera, but I think for the price difference it’s not that much better.

Have a great trip!

11th February 2019 at 6:38 am

hi, thanks for your such informative blog. I am considering to purchase Fujifilm X-T20 with 18-55mm lens or Canon M50. And, my usage is more to photo shoots instead of video shoot.

I appreciate if you could give advise on this,

13th February 2019 at 9:17 pm

Both are excellent cameras, so it is hard to really decide between them. The Canon is slightly better for videos, and the Fuji might give slightly better photo performance, but the difference is very small. The main difference is the lens options – I would say there are more better value lenses for the Canon than the Fuji, but to be honest, both are really great cameras and I don’t think you will be disappointed with either choice!

Roxanne says

5th February 2019 at 6:58 am

What camera would you recommend for the following.. Indoor for a convention I will be attending Site seeing photos Novice photographer Selfies Price isn’t a deal breaker, so as long as it’s going to last me Captures my memories Ease of grab and shot Social posting Printing

Also considering a upgrade on cell too. To have both a camera and cell phone handy for just in case. I currently have a iPhone 7plus. But open to a smartphone that offers better photo capabilities.

Thanks in advance for your help!

5th February 2019 at 11:44 am

Hi Roxanne!

So the most challenging scene you’ll be looking at shooting will be the indoor scenes, which is where many cameras will struggle due to a lack of light.

If you wanted a capable smartphone, I currently use the Google Pixel 3 which is excellent for a wide range of shooting scenarios, including low light. I’ve not tried out the latest iPhone though.

In terms of a camera, for point and shoot I’d have to suggest either the ZS100 / ZS200, or one of the Sony RX100 options. However, the smaller sensor might not give the best results for indoor work.

So if you don’t mind a slightly bigger camera, I’d probably recommend the Fujifilm X-A5. This has a flipping screen for selfies, a large sensor that performs well in low light, and is still quite portable and easy to use.

I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any more questions 🙂

Ranjeet Kaur says

19th January 2019 at 6:47 pm

Hi guys, thanks so much for creating this page its an amazing read… i had a dslr camera for 10 years but it has now broken i also have a small canonn camera very small.brought in 2005 takes a card of 2gb but thats givent up as well. I i belive its time to up grade…. i use the camera for travling, gathering and amy social events. I also use it with work when i go and look at properties… so with this in mind im strugling to decide which camera to buy as i would like to get a small compact one…. what would you recommend?

19th January 2019 at 6:55 pm

Hi Ranjeet!

Our pleasure. So if it’s a small compact camera you are after, that is the section of the post to look at. We also have an expanded version of suggested compact cameras here . It’s hard to recommend without knowing your budget, but that page should give you lots more options!

4th January 2019 at 1:05 am

I’m hoping you can help as I am probably comparing apples to oranges. I’m looking for a travel camera for an amateur that is fairly compact, has an auto function, can take selfies, and takes bright, crisp pictures. Deciding between the Canon EOS M50 and the Sony RX100 iii. Any advice?

4th January 2019 at 9:47 am

Sure thing! So the RX100 will be more compact than the M50, but my personal preference would be the M50. It has a larger sensor, meaning images will be higher quality in a variety of shooting situations, has the full auto function, and also has a fully articulating screen for selfies. So that would be my preference of the two.

Another option is the EOS M100, which is a bit smaller, but has similar features. It’s also less expensive. It might be a good balance between the two options 🙂

26th December 2018 at 9:41 pm

What would your opinion be with getting the 200d with a 35mm prime and an ultrwide zoom? Do you have any suggestions as to which lenses I should look at? Total budget would only be around 700 I think at this stage. It would be used for travelling (cities and mountains) as well as a little bit of filming in the woods, but this is very much a secondary use

Many thanks

26th December 2018 at 10:01 pm

So that would be a great combination. Assuming a total budget of $700 to include the 200d, which is around $400 body only, then my suggestion would be the Canon 10-18 ultrawide angle , and the Canon 50mm f/1.8 , which is an amazing lens for the price.

That will take you to $794 all in, which is pretty decent for what you are getting 🙂

26th December 2018 at 10:06 pm

Sounds just about perfect, thanks for the speedy reply

If I remember I’ll try to post how I get on with them, such a good thread I’ll probably have a read over in a few months again XD

Thanks for the help, Flo

26th December 2018 at 10:17 pm

My pleasure 🙂 I’d love to hear how that combination works for you, so do pop back and let me know 🙂

We keep this post up to date as newer models come along, we also have a guide to travel lenses if you want another post to read 🙂 https://www.findingtheuniverse.com/best-lenses-for-travel-photography/

Have a wonderful 2019!

26th December 2018 at 7:23 am

Thanks for your article, it was really helpful. I was already considering the Nikon D3500 with an 18- 140mm lens as an alround in-expensive travel camera for an upcoming trip where we really only want to travel with the bare minimum. We can get this as a kit lens in Aus. However, I was wondering about the comparison between the D3500 and the D5600 with the 18-140 mm which is also available as a kit?

26th December 2018 at 11:09 am

Hi Helen, and thanks!

So there is not a great deal of difference between the two. They have pretty much the same specification, the main difference is that the D5600 has a moveable touchscreen and the D3500 has a fixed, non touch-screen. The D5600 is a bit heavier too, but they are otherwise dimensionally identical.

So really it comes down to whether or not the moving touchscreen is something you would want, as otherwise these two cameras are pretty much identical.

Hope this helps!

valina1981 says

11th December 2018 at 6:03 am

Absolutely love this post! Thank you. I’ve spent the last few weeks drowning in information and agonizing over which camera will be the best for me. As a complete beginner who wants to capture great images but wouldn’t have the slightest idea where to start with changeable lens this guide is ideal. Thank you

11th December 2018 at 10:06 am

My pleasure!

9th December 2018 at 7:21 am

I found this very helpful and an now as subscriber. I was going to sign up for your course, but got confused (my constant state) when I was about to pay and was greeted by a different instructor (‘Nomatic” Matt, or something like that). I now have a little over and hour experience reading your material and felt there was a good match, so didn’t sign up with Matt, if that is what I was doing. May be I missed something. Please let me know if you are in fact the instructor. Thanks

9th December 2018 at 10:31 am

Sorry about that confusion, I should probably try to make it clearer. So the course that you are talking about is my course, I wrote the whole thing, and all the homework / feedback comes to me. The course is just hosted at the Nomadic Matt site as he has a number of courses that compliment each other, plus it means I don’t have to worry about server hosting and the technology of the course – I just run it 🙂

But yes, that’s the one to sign up for to get to me 🙂

9th December 2018 at 5:06 pm

Thanks for the quick response and clarification. I will be signing up.

9th December 2018 at 7:11 pm

Thanks Steve, looking forward to helping you out 😀

Shirzad says

27th November 2018 at 1:13 am

You are a star!! Thank you, very informative.

27th November 2018 at 11:21 am

My pleasure! let us know which one you chose 🙂

David Stepenberg says

19th November 2018 at 1:56 am

Outstanding publication that was informative and easily understood. I appreciate your sharing your experience and expertise.

I’m interested in a digital camera that produces extremely high quality photos for canvas enlargement, has a large sensor, image stabilization, and is compatible with a high quality long range zoom lense. Based on this publication I’m assuming a DSLR is best, but I’m not sure which one and would appreciate your feedback.

19th November 2018 at 10:13 am

Thanks very much 🙂

So based on your requirements, you’d be looking at a fairly high end camera. You have a few options, depending on your budget:

The Canon 5D Mark IV The Sony A7r III The Nikon D850

These are all roughly the same price. For your specific needs, I would probably lean towards the Sony a7 rIII, which is a mirrorless full frame camera, with in body image stabilization and a high megapixel sensor which means you’ll be able to get those high quality images you’re after.

The 5D is a great camera, but the sensor doesn’t have so many megapixels. The Nikon is also excellent, with a fantastic (Sony made) sensor, but has no in body stablization.

Of course, both Nikon and Canon offer stabilised lenses, so you can get the same effect with a lens.

I hope this helps. There are other options at lower (and higher!) budgets, but this would me my starting point without knowing your exact budget 🙂

26th October 2018 at 4:13 pm

Nice article..! Any reason to choose D3300 over D3400?

26th October 2018 at 6:07 pm

In terms of the cameras under $500, I wanted to pick a great value camera, and the D3300 certainly fits that bill, especially since the D3400 and D3500 have since been released. However, if you have the budget, the newer models are definitely worth checking out 🙂

17th October 2018 at 9:22 pm

I feel you are missing a well known and loved travel camera. The Ricoh GR &/or GRii essentially the same, is ultra light, a somewhat fast 2.8 for low light, no AA filter that delivers sharp images and can be found used $350 or brand new $600. Yes, it has a fixed 28mm lens but it’s also so sharp with an aps-c sensor That cropping into a RAW image is still sharp after digital processing. Not the fastest auto focus but for those who focus on setting up their image or are patient for the scene to develop, it’s sufficient.

Great blog. Thanks for the work.

18th October 2018 at 5:43 pm

Thanks very much! There are a lot of great cameras out there for sure, and thanks for recommending your favourite. Hopefully someone finds your recommendation useful 😀

7th October 2018 at 2:10 pm

Absolutely brill article thankyou! I have a question for you . . . Im a land artist in the UK and currently looking to invest in a camera to capture my artwork. Been using a samsung galaxy phone up till now but seriously need to upgrade as Im being asked for large prints! Im good with light and composition but have very little tech knowledge! So looking for the smallest simplest camera that is not a phone! that shoots in RAW for high quality large prints that I can carry easily and not have to think about! Ive been looking at the Sony RX100 V and wondering if the image quality will be good enough . . friends saying Sony Alpha series is better! Help! Getting confused with so much choice! Would really appreciate your opinion or advice :)) *artwork ranges from small macro creations to much larger woodland or river work

10th October 2018 at 4:59 pm

So for something small the shoots in RAW, a higher end point and shoot should work fine for your specific needs 🙂 The Alpha series from Sony is a great choice too, but they are certainly bigger than a point and shoot, and also a bit more complicated to use. So I would advise something like the Panasonic or Sony in this post. We also have a more comprehensive Point and shoot camera guide here with even more choices 🙂 https://independenttravelcats.com/best-compact-camera-travel-point-and-shoot-cameras/

Let me know if you have any more questions!

Cecilia Lawrence says

11th September 2018 at 1:22 am

Hi there! Thank you for taking the time to write up this list! I was wondering if you could give me some camera recommendations. I’m an amateur photographer and I mostly use my camera for taking interior photos (like architecture or portraits) for art references. The things I’m looking for are:

1.) Long battery life (when traveling) 2.) Under $500 3.) Good in low-light settings

I’m trying to find either a good point-and-shoot or a mirrorless camera that fits in my budget. I was told that the Canon Rebel t6 is a good DSLR for what I’m looking for, but I’m wondering if it might not be a little too cumbersome when traveling. Any suggestions?

11th September 2018 at 10:34 am

Hi Cecilia!

My pleasure. So, your wishlist is quite a challenge I have to be honest 🙂

For a long battery life, your best option is going to be a DSLR, as mirrorless cameras use up more battery due to not having an optical viewfinder, which means you always need to be powering a screen.

Low light is the hardest environment for a camera to work in. My suggestion for the type of photography you are wanting to do would be to invest in a tripod, which can help get around some of the challenges of shooting in low light by letting you use longer exposures.

My suggestion would be perhaps the Canon M100 . This has the same sensor has the Canon DSLR cameras, but is in a smaller body, so it is quite compact. It comes in under budget including a lens. The only issue is that the battery life is not going to be as good as a DSLR.

let me know how that sounds!

11th September 2018 at 6:06 pm

Thank you so much for your quick response! This camera looks perfect–exactly what I was looking for. Thank you again!

11th September 2018 at 6:09 pm

My pleasure Cecilia 🙂 You inspired me to add it to the post as well, I think it’s an excellent option at this price point 🙂

Prashanth says

31st August 2018 at 9:17 am

Hello, thank you for an excellent article. I’ve got a tough one for you – my trusty Panasonic FZ300 has checked itself out after three terrific years. I can’t seem to find anything else that matches its set of amazing features. Can you help? Thanks!!

31st August 2018 at 10:31 am

Hi Prashanth,

I think the logical replacement would be the new Panasonic FZ330, which seems to have a similar set of features and upgraded technology 🙂

1st September 2018 at 6:00 am

Oh wow Laurence, thank you! I can’t believe I wasn’t able to find it myself. I kept searching for “FZ300 successor” but apart from a few forum postings on what a potential successor should look like, I only saw pages from four years ago that declared that the FZ300 was a successor to the FZ200! I noticed that you don’t have a section for bridge cameras on your blog – from my own experience, I found the FZ300 the most versatile cam I’ve used. I go on an annual 5500+ meter trek (Kailash Manasarovar yatra if you’re interested), and I’ve really put the weather sealing capabilities of the FZ300 to the ultimate test! The ultrazoom really comes in handy on the trek (to scope out far away features or wildlife) and the insane feature set (from 4 years ago!) – 4k video, timelapse, wifi, multiple zoom controls, touchscreen, etc. make this camera an absolute treat to use. If at all anything could be improved, it would be the sensor, because it isn’t good at all in low light (thats when the RX100 comes out of my pocket ;-)). I look forward to checking the FZ330 out – thanks again!

1st September 2018 at 6:04 am

Oops! I had just replied to your comment Laurence, but I’m afraid the FZ300 and the FZ330 are exactly the same 🙁 “There is no functional difference as far as I know. It is a brand / labeling thing. The FZ330 IS the FZ300.”

1st September 2018 at 10:54 am

You are right! I am so sorry, I just found that and figured it must be the latest version of it as that’s what Panasonic has on their website. They don’t seem to have anything newer with the same sort of features, and I can’t find anything else that is the same sort of bridge design with the same feature set. The FZ300 / 330 seems to still be the only option. So I’m not sure if you’ve considered just buying another one?

You are definitely correct that this guide is currently missing bridge cameras, the only reason being I don’t have personal experience with them so it’s hard for me to give good advice!

2nd April 2019 at 7:07 pm

Hi again Prashanth!

A bit of a delay, but I thought you’d be interested in the recently launched FZ-1000 II. It doesn’t have quite the zoom of the FZ330, but the sensor is both bigger and has higher megapixels, so when you crop the image you will likely end up with the same results. It’s also somewhat more expensive. But in case you were still looking, I thought you’d like to know 🙂

2nd August 2018 at 7:15 am

Thank you so so much for this. This helped me so much

2nd August 2018 at 10:00 am

My pleasure Rachel 😀

Techwhippet.com says

23rd May 2018 at 3:55 pm

Hi findingtheuniverse, This article is very much helpful. But still I have question on it should I ask here ?

23rd May 2018 at 7:36 pm

If you have a question you are welcome to ask it 🙂

nick esposito says

16th March 2018 at 4:23 pm

6D II has a swivel screen and a touchscreen..your info is wrong in the article.

16th March 2018 at 4:29 pm

Thanks Nick – I’ve fixed that in the article 🙂

Gezina Uys says

21st February 2018 at 12:59 pm

I have been looking for a travel camera for a long time now, but not one can can do everything I want it to do. 1. It must be lighter than my Canon EOS . 2. Must take superb photo’s because I print a lot and enlarge them. 3. Large sensor. 4. Good optical zoom lens. 5. Image stabilization. 6. Build in flash with range more than 10m. 7. Megapixels – more than 20.

Please advice me what to buy. I go on a holiday in August and must have the camera by then. My Canon is just to heavy to carry around.

21st February 2018 at 1:13 pm

That is quite a list 🙂

Getting everything you want in one camera is going to be quite hard – a large sensor will require a larger camera body, that’s just how it works. I’d also add that very few built in flashes are either that powerful or produce good results – this is why pretty much every professional level camera doesn’t even have a built-in flash.

It’s hard to give specific advice without a budget in mind. However, my advice to you would be to consider the Sony mirrorless systems, and in particular the Sony Alpha a7II ( http://amzn.to/2CbOehK ) for your requirements. This has nearly everything you have asked for:

1 – mirrorless, so smaller and lighter than EOS full frame cameras, weighs 1.32lbs 2 – takes great photos 3 – full frame sensor 4 – lots of lenses available 5 – built in 5-axis image stabilisation 6 – no flash (see above for why) 7 – 24.3MP

21st February 2018 at 1:37 pm

To follow on from your e-mail where you say that Sony are leaving the South African market (!). This is definitely a problem, as there aren’t any other full frame mirrorless cameras that I’m aware of, other than the Leica range, which are really expensive.

So my advice would be to look instead at the APS-C sized sensors on mirrorless cameras. These still produce great image quality and come in a smaller format. I’d specifically advise either the Fuji XT2 or the Fuji XT20, depending on your budget, both of which offer superb image quality. I know a number of professional photographers who love these cameras and use them as their main cameras day in and day out.

Techwhippet says

15th February 2018 at 7:22 am

Hi Mate! I just bought the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III, and am curious, do you ever take prime lenses when travelling? I’ve seen some amazing travel pictures taken with Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III. Amazing blog, keep up the great work!

17th February 2018 at 8:36 pm

Thanks very much! I don’t usually take prime lenses, I usually have a wide angle and a telephoto, and find that is enough to carry!

Greg Kennon says

3rd February 2017 at 4:05 pm

Wow! Awesome in depth post! We recently bought a Sony point and shoot camera and we have loved it. We have used a DSLR before but they are so heavy to take on long walks/hikes! Thanks for the great post! I will definitely reference this when it’s time to upgrade:)

Laurence says

3rd February 2017 at 4:09 pm

Thanks Greg, pleased you find it useful!

Leslie Hoerwinkle says

24th January 2017 at 3:53 am

So, which camera is the best? ????

13th February 2018 at 10:23 pm

It really depends on what you want to do with it, and your budget! I’d suggest checking out the post and making a decision on the best travel camera for you 🙂

The Moscow Olympics commemorative cameras

It’s 40 years since the Summer Olympics took place in Moscow. Kosmo Foto looks at the special Moscow Olympics commemorative cameras released to mark them.

In the summer of 1980, all eyes were on Moscow. For once, the centre of a secretive empire was open to the world.

The Games of the XXII Olympiad had come to Moscow, the first time the summer Olympics had been held in a communist country. In 1974, just two years after the terror-affected Munich games had been held, Moscow went up against only one other bidding city – Los Angeles – and won the vote by a landslide.

More than 60 years after the Bolshevik October Revolution, Moscow was closed to most of the world. The relative thaw of the 1960s Khrushchev years had been replaced with the icily detached Brezhnev era. It was arguably the chilliest height of the Cold War.

Olympics At the heart of Moscow’s Olympics merchandise was a cartoonish bear called Misha, a symbol smiling heartily from everything from badges to keyrings to ties and wall pendants. The bear cub was designed by Russian children’s book illustrator Viktor Chizhikov , and intended as a counter to the cliché of the menacing “Soviet bear”. But Misha was by no means the only merchandise made for the games.

At some point before the crowds arrived it was decided that each of the major Soviet camera makers – KMZ, LOMO, Arsenal (Kiev) and FED – would produce special commemorative editions of their cameras, sporting the official Moscow Olympic logo.

These cameras are a little reminder of Moscow’s games, four decades on.

The Soviets were not the only ones to release Olympic-edition cameras; Canon released a raft of commemorative cameras for the 1980 Salk Lake City Winter Olympics and the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics aswell. A boxed and unused Los Angeles Games Canon F-1 with accompanying documents can now set you back £1,300 ($1,750).

Two main emblems were used – the striking ‘ skyscraper running track ’ designed by Vladimir Arsentyev, and the five Olympic rings with “Moskva-80” above them. According to Alfred Klomp, whose camera site compiled a pretty comprehensive list in the early 2000s , the logos were applied to a number of the more common cameras produced at the time. A quick glance at Klomp’s list (below) shows all of the major Soviet camera manufacturers took part in the scheme (Arsenal also added the symbol to their Kiev-17 SLR , which Klomp was unaware of at the time.)

Table of Olympic cameras (Graphic: Alfred Klomp)

Klomp’s list shows that the Olympic badge was not just reserved for high-priced cameras, but for everyman cameras such as the ubiquitous Zenit-E and even the humble Smena-8 compact camera. Even today the Moscow Olympics cameras are relatively easy to find, and don’t command anything like the Olympic Canon price tags. In 2003, I bought a fully working Zenit-E inscribed with the Olympic logo for only £4 in a London market. The prices only really start spiking when it comes to Olympics cameras complete with their special-edition boxes.

To find out more about these Moscow mementoes, Kosmo Foto spoke to Vladislav Kern, one of the most prominent collectors of Soviet cameras and the founder of USSRPhoto.com , about the Olympic versions.

How many models were produced as Moscow Olympics versions “Quite a few as you can see from my photos, pretty much every factory produced cameras dedicated to 1980 Olympics. I believe I have all of the major models with Olympic symbols provided in the pictures.”

Kern says “most can be found fairly easily, the USSR made quite a lot of these and symbols were placed on common models since it was a huge event for the USSR and the idea was to spread the Soviet pride of it as much as possible.

FED Olympic cameras (Pic: Vladislav Kern)

“I don’t believe there are any super-rare Olympic models. To be honest none of them are even considered uncommon. The only exception would be Arsenal Kievs, those are in fact somewhat uncommon to find, especially the 4AM and marginally the Kiev-17.”

A rumour long persisted that the communist state had done played a very capitalist trick and churned out commemorative models for years after the Olympics, under the assumption that they would fetch higher prices. “No they were not,” Kern says. “An overwhelming majority were produced in 1979 preceding the year of the Olympics, with some still made in 1980. I don’t believe I’ve seen a later Olympics camera. It is a bit harder to tell with the FED factory since they did not use year prefix in their serial numbers, but I still believe most were 1978-1980.”

The other rumour about Olympic cameras is they passed a much stricter level of quality control than most Soviet cameras. Not so, according to Kern. “In most cases it just involved a silk-screened Olympics logo or a stick-on badge. There were also Olympic boxes, even though some cameras did not have any indication on the bodies, the boxes during 1978-1980 period may have sported the Olympics logo. I have never personally heard of any accords of it being any higher quality than usual.”

LOMO Olympic cameras (Pic: Vladislav Kern)

The cameras ended up being exported far and wide, part of the USSR’s charm offensive ahead of the games. “Obviously quite a few went abroad to promote the event but the majority, especially the Zenits stayed, in-country.”

As it turned out, the first communist games (China would become the second when the Olympics were held in Beijing in 2008 ) did not go according to plan. Dozens of countries – including USA, Canada and China – boycotted the games due to the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan the previous December. That would, in turn, lead to a tit-for-tat boycott of the Los Angeles games four years later. It took some of the lustre off the games meant to show off Soviet might to the world, and meant fewer than expected tourists came back from the Olympics with a Moscow memento.

Zenit Olympic SLRs (Pic: Vladislav Kern)

One more thing: while the Moscow Olympics cameras might me a nice addition to a camera collection, don’t think that you might be shooting on the kind of camera Soviet photojournalists used at the Moscow games.

Russian photo historian Vladimir Zverev tells Kosmo Foto the Soviet press corps mainly shot on East German Prakticas rather than Soviet cameras. “Only a few photographers had Nikon F2 cameras. These were photo correspondents from the central media (TASS agency or the Pravda newspaper).”

A Moscow Olympics Nikon F2? That’s definitely one to pop beside the commemorative Zenits and Lubitels…

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Stephen Dowling Founder and editor at Kosmo Foto I’m Kosmo Foto’s founder and editor.

I'm a New Zealander who has been living in London since the mid-1990s, shooting film seriously since the year 2000. Kosmo Foto was launched in 2012 and has since become a film brand, with the release of my first films Kosmo Foto Mono 35mm (2017) and Kosmo Foto Mono 120 (2019).

I’m doing everything I can to promote film photography in the 21st Century, and help it survive and thrive. If you want to write something for Kosmo Foto, please drop me a line at [email protected].

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Lens advice for Moscow on a budget?

Thread starter sjducks
Start date May 10, 2012

Mu-43 Rookie

May 10, 2012

Sorry for another "what lens" post, but I figured that there are many people who have been in similar situations that can help. I'm leaving for Moscow in the middle of June and am interested in adding a lens to my m43 kit. My gear is still a work in progress, but I have an E-P2 and E-PM1, with the II R kit lens and the Sigma 19mm 2.8. I would like to add another lens to take along with my as I'll be taking photos all over indoors/outdoors, daytime/low light. I am however on a budget and really do not want to spend an excessive amount on this lens. I am interested in the Oly 45, but am not really going to be taking any portraits while there (or elsewhere for that matter). Maybe squeeze in a P14 for the wide angle? Any advice would be fantastic. Thanks much!

forgot to mention that I am looking more for native glass if possible. I also have an OM Zuiko 50/1.8, although I am not sure if it will make the trip with me. Thanks again.

Mu-43 Veteran

p20/1.7 - best choice

Mu-43 Hall of Famer

Both of those focal lengths are covered by your kit zoom, so you should be able to figure out which one you use more - wide-angle or short tele? Or are you generally 'stuck in the middle'? My personal preference would be something wide (particularly indoors and urban shooting), so the obvious budget option would be the 14/2.5. The 12, while expensive (and thus probably out of the question) would actually give you something very different in terms of field of view (extra mm on the wide-angle side mean more than on the tele end). Or even the 9-18 ultra wide zoom, although not everyone likes ultrawides equally. I enjoy them from time to time (I have a 17-40 on my full frame), but 24 is usually wide enough for me.

Mu-43 Regular

I visited Moscow just the other week and would definitely recommend a tele zoom as well. When walking around you will want to zoom in on the wonderful buildings and architectural details, and the 45 (good as it is) will not bring you close enough in my opinion. I shot most of my pictures last week with either a wide angle (I used the 9-18 Oly lens) or tele (the Oly 40-150). Since you mention you do not want to spend too much and maybe only want to add one lens I would suggest the 40-150 in your case, not too expensive and very versatile. Combined with your kit lens you will have a light and small but very usable combo that will give you a lot of picture opportunities. If you can stretch the budget think about the 9-18 as well though, great for interiors! https://www.mu-43.com/f56/moscow-color-b-w-25585/ To give you some idea, most outdoor pictures in my Moscow thread (above) were shot with 40-150, most indoor shots with 9-18 Regardless of your choice, you will have a great time there, wonderful city for a photo trip!

My wife and I went to London, UK, last summer. She was there for two weeks before I got there, and she took along her E-PL1, m.14-42 (mk. I) kit, and the m.40-150. She never complained about any restrictions, with the exception that 14mm wasn't wide enough for a very few architecture shots. I brought my old E-620, 11-22mm and 50mm f/2. It would get to be too much weight for a 10-12 hour day of walking around. I envied the little E-PL1. I would say that if your goal is to enjoy Moscow, and not to earn a profit off your shots, then get the m.40-150mm, a few extra batteries, and a few extra SD cards. It's a very sharp lens for the price, and extra batteries and SD cards are more important than another stop of light.

Just this guy...

Since you don't have a strong idea of what you want I'd go along with the others suggesting the 40-150. It gives you a good general purpose kit. The two zooms and faster normal on two bodies will be very versatile on a tight budget. Fred

Moscow lens Since you already have Oly cameras, I can recommend the 14-150 zoom. Compact, wide range, good quality (no equal to the primes, but plenty good enough). Just traveled to New Zealand and used this lens most of the time. It's $499 at Amazon, perhaps out of your budget but worth a look.

Mu-43 All-Pro

Save your money for your trip. Since you have no idea what you want, it would suggest you don't need a lens at all.

Wide. Wide. Wide. There are many very interesting interiors in Russia. The chapels inside St. Basil's for example. IMHO it takes 24mm equivalent or better to shoot an interior and give an adequate sense of space. My "travel wide" is the 9-18. (Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood in St. Petersburg is another photogenic interior. Don't miss it if you get that far.) Those photogenic interiors are usually pretty dim. I suggest a 5 or 6 section carbon monopod that collapses to around 16" Put a Velbon QHD-41Q or one of the Manfrotto ball heads with the QR2 system on your monopod and you will be a happy low-light shooter. IMHO you have enough longer lenses unless you are a birder.

either kit zoom or 9-18mm

lenshoarder

I would pickup a M39 adapter and buy old Soviet glass while there.

Thanks for all the suggestions fellas, much appreciated! Keep em coming.

Keep em coming. Click to expand...

oldracer said: One more re budget: You could buy a 9-18mm for the trip and sell it when you get home. Click to expand...

I actually have the same dilemma for Italy next year. The Oly 12,f2.0 is way out of my budget. I was probably going to buy the Pany 14,2.5. At < $300. I looked at the Sigma 19,f 2.8, but I didn't think the reviews were overwhelming. I have the EPL1. Type I. Kit lens, and the 40-150 tele-zoom ( love that lens ). I also have the Holga lens ( I actually like this one alot ). So, judging by the responses here, the Pany is the way to go. Thanks.

I am leaning a little more towards wide angle than zoom although the prices for the 40-150mm olympus are pretty cheap now (same goes for the 14mm panasonic). BAKatz, I'm with you...I'd love to get the Oly 12, but it's out of my range as well.

You can always take multiple images and stitch them together rather than buying a wide. I often do handheld panos. The gridded display is very helpful in taking the series.

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Olympus Trip 100 35mm Point and Shoot Film Camera
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Olympus Trip 100
The Trip 100 is a very basic 35mm compact camera, with motor drive and manufactured by Olympus in 1992. It was one of a series of cheap fixed focus models branded Olympus Trip. The original price was ¥17,000 (including the case and strap).
Olympus Trip 100
The Olympus Trip 100 is a compact camera developed by Olympus for spontaneous photography. Its simple operating concept makes it ideal for newcomers to photography. It is characterised by its black plastic housing, manufactured in Malaysia. Unlike many other compact cameras, the Trip 100 has a built-in lens, which makes it stand out from the crowd.
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The Trip 100 was a very basic 35mm compact camera, with motor drive and manufactured by Olympus in 1992. It was one of a series of cheap fixed focus models branded Olympus Trip. The original price was ¥17,000 (including the case and strap). Lens: 35mm Integral auto-flash Integral sliding lens cover Trip 100 in the Olympus Global History.
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