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The 52 Places Traveler

Drifting through puglia, italy’s heel, arriving exhausted, the 52 places traveler found puglia the perfect place to go with the flow..

By Sebastian Modak

Our columnist, Sebastian Modak, is visiting each destination on our 52 Places to Go in 2019 list. Before Puglia, he was sampling the coastline (and the focaccia di Recco) in Golfo Paradiso .

Puglia, the region of southern Italy i n the heel of the boot-shaped country, has been called “the new Tuscany.” Lecce, a Baroque masterpiece of a city built from cream-colored limestone, is often referred to as “the Florence of the South.” It’s not unusual for tourism boards and the travel press to grasp at analogies that bring to mind more familiar destinations as a way to drive traffic to “undiscovered gems.” But comparing Puglia to anywhere else does it a disservice.

Over six days, while making my way up, down and around the heel of Italy, I encountered a place that was far too complex and far too varied — in terms of culture, cuisine, architecture and history — to fit into a catchy tagline.

I have to confess something. I arrived in Bari, the largest city in Puglia, tired — like, a no-amount-of-sleep-could-ever-be-enough kind of tired. It’s happened at a few points during this yearlong trip, seemingly at random. I hit an invisible wall and feel an intense fatigue that’s hard to fight through.

Luckily, in Puglia, I didn’t have to. The slow, hot days lent themselves to the pace of this temporarily laconic traveler. I drifted with the barely perceptible breeze from Bari down to Lecce, then back up to the stunning town of Martina Franca, built on a hill overlooking vineyards and olive trees. I put my lunch orders in the hands of waiters, shrugging, smiling, and agreeing to whatever the first recommendation was.

That’s how I dug into plates of orecchiette with broccoli rabe and fava bean curd with chicory, dishes that clearly were born out of tough times and taste like the surrounding countryside. For lunch, I ate plates of capocollo, a cold pork cut that in Martina Franca is smoked with herbs and almonds. I fell into food comas after each puccia, a pocket-like sandwich stuffed with a variety of different fillings, including, down in Lecce, horse meat.

In a dream state, I drifted across the region, taking back roads that led me down dirt paths to ghost towns and tiny villages where it was hard to find a person under the age of 70. I took exit ramps based on whimsy, making turns toward my best bet for where a beach might be. Often, I was right.

I barely scratched the surface. A country within a country, Puglia requires repeat visits — but this time, it proved ideal for a stop around the midpoint of this journey , where the last thing I wanted was an elaborate, down-to-the-minute itinerary.

Puglia is deservedly known for its 500 miles of coastline; a sandy beach or a rocky shore is usually a short drive away. I heard one name repeated again and again: Polignano a Mare, a quaint seaside town famous for its white-pebble beach that’s framed by cliffs. I went on a weekend and found it too crowded, so I drove just two miles up the coast, to San Vito, where the crowds were thinner and the beach was filled with brightly colored fishing boats, all with an imposing 10th-century abbey as a backdrop.

The first time you see trulli, the traditional conical structures found scattered across the Itria Valley in the heart of Puglia, it’s easy to think you’ve walked into a fantasy movie set. They’re just too charming to be real, with white-washed foundations leading to stone caps that are often painted with religious and astrological symbols. Then you start seeing them everywhere.

The largest concentration of trulli is in Alberobello, where, densely concentrated and dating to the 15th century, they’ve been included on the Unesco World Heritage list . That also means every tourist in Puglia makes their way to see them. (Though theories about their original use vary , many believe they were built either as temporary shelters and storehouses or as permanent structures for agricultural workers.)

I spent an afternoon wandering between the structures there, but found it much more rewarding to stumble upon the rural trulli scattered across the countryside. Best of all, I was able to find a place where I could sleep in the structures, at an unassuming masseria (a farmhouse lodging) outside Martina Franca called Masseria Pozzo Tre Pile . There, the biggest disruption came in the form of a pair of black horses that walked right in front of my own little trullo, out for their morning stroll with the farm’s caretaker.

Talk to a Pugliese for long enough and the subject of horses will invariably come up. Murgese horses, jet-black and hardy, have been bred in this part of Italy for at least 500 years and were valued for their versatility by farmhands and cavalry alike. Today, they seem to serve most of all as a point of pride.

Through a series of chance encounters, I wound up at a farm outside of Martina Franca run partly by the local police force, where they breed the horses. A stern officer, decked out in full uniform, showed off his stock to me, while regaling me with stories of falconers and King Ferdinand V’s favorite horses.

Just a few hours earlier, my departure from the trulli-filled masseria had been delayed as its owner read to me a poem about her own favorite Murgese, a tempermental stallion who was wont to roam the farm after dark, blending into the night sky.

A rental car is essential if you’re trying to hit more than just a few of the most popular cities in Puglia. I picked mine up at Bari Airport and from there made my way to Lecce and Martina Franca, with plenty of detours along the way. Try to take as many back-road routes as you can . (Hitting the “Avoid highways” option on Google Maps helps.)

In Martina Franca, have at least one meal at a butcher — yes, you read that right. From the counter, you can choose an array of bombettes, sausage-like chunks of pork neck stuffed with a variety of fillings and cooked over hot coals. I particularly liked the solo feast I had at Braceria Valle d’Itria . Prepare for meat sweats.

Don’t leave Lecce without a breakfast stop at Caffè Alvino . Yes, it’s touristy, but yes, it’s also very, very good. Order the pasticciotto, a pastry filled with custard, and wash it down with a caffe Leccese, iced coffee with almond milk. Then order seconds.

Some places are worth traveling to just for the sake of geographic novelty, and Santa Maria di Leuca, right at the tip of the heel, where the Ionian and Adriatic Seas meet, is one of them. In just an hour’s drive, you’re transported from landlocked Lecce, where the sun dances across limestone churches and streets paved in marble, to a quiet seaside town. There, the most important moment of the day is sunset, when people climb hundreds of steps to a lighthouse perched 300 feet above the sea.

Idyllic countryside and pristine coast; Baroque majesty and homey hospitality; cuisine that is complex on the taste buds but simple in its preparation. Puglia has a bit of everything, and six days was far too little time to properly digest it all. But it was the ideal opportunity to turn what could have been a sprint into a relaxed amble. Sometimes one’s hazy impressions, disjointed and amorphous, can carry an emotional resonance that will one day draw you back.

Sebastian Modak is the 2019 52 Places Traveler. Before being selected to report on the annual New York Times list, he worked at Condé Nast Traveler as an editor and staff writer. More about Sebastian Modak

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The most beautiful coastal towns in Italy

When it comes to the ultimate vacation to Italy, towns on the coast may immediately come to mind. With roughly 7,900 kilometres of coastline, the Italian peninsula offers vastly different flavours of sun, sea and sand all over the European boot: the lemon-scented beauty of Positano; the handsome elegance of verdant Portofino ; the rustic and laidback vibes of Med-side communes in Puglia, the breathtaking higgledy-piggledy buildings in all five settlements of Cinque Terre, and the big yachtin’-in-Capri energy of Italy's glamorous island resorts.

In Italy , it’s always a good time to head to the ocean – even in the off-season . It’s just a matter of which coastal town to visit and fall in love with. The bustling restaurants of Rome, the sleek hotels of Milan, and the historic museums of Florence can wait; as much we adore the great cities and rolling hillsides of Italy, towns on the coast have plenty to offer all types of travellers, whether visiting for the first time or marking their tenth passport stamp from Rome-Fiumicino.

Below, see 15 of the best Italian coastal towns, from Sicily to Manarola, as well as Condé Nast Traveller -approved recommendations of where to stay. These coastal havens have Mediterranean views, pristine beaches, excellent seafood, and well-preserved architecture – all of them well-worth a stop on your next trip. Warning: You may never want to come back.

Ravello, Campania

Ravello, located high on a mountain three miles from the town of Amalfi, isn’t just a pretty face. Here you'll find plenty of restaurants, cafes, museums, and charming villas galore. Don’t forget to visit the 13th-century Villa Rufolo , which offers sublime views of the coast, a garden that is forever in bloom, and a musical legacy – German composer Richard Wagner spent some time here in the 1800s; an outdoor concert series inspired by him and his work takes place every summer.

Where to stay: Almost all guest rooms at the Caruso, A Belmond Hotel, Amalfi Coast have private terraces or gardens, and the original frescoes and vaulted ceilings add to the feeling of absolute splendour.

Cefalù, Sicily

Wedged between mountains and coastline, just an hour’s drive east of Palermo, the idyllic town of Cefalù in Sicily is tiny but popular – especially among sun-seekers from other parts of Italy. It’s now perhaps best known as one of the filming locations for the second season of The White Lotus , but beyond its set-jet appeal, the place has gorgeous beaches, great restaurants and a hip nightlife scene, particularly in the summer months when its population triples.

Where to stay: Book a room on the higher floors of Alberi Del Paradiso , set up the hill and away from the beach crowds, for sweeping views of the Thyrrenian Sea.

Portoferraio, Elba Island, Tuscany

You may know Elba Island as the former home of exiled Napoleon Bonaparte – his summer house, Villa San Martino , is currently open to the public – but the site also happens to be one of the least-touristed islands in Italy, at least for now. Though it’s the largest island in the Tuscan archipelago, Elba looks more like the lush island of Corsica in France than its rocky sister islands, thanks to underground springs, which keep the island green year round. Its largest city, Portoferraio, welcomes ferries from Italy’s mainland with its dense vegetation, beautiful hidden beaches, and well-preserved Medici forts.

Where to stay: Just a 15-minute drive away from the town’s port, the Hotel Villa Ottone has multiple dining options: a poolside restaurant and another in a park; there’s also a piano bar in the summer. The gym and tennis courts are perfect for staying active too.

Portofino, Liguria

A haven for the aristocracy of Europe since the 19th century – and a perennial hot spot for today’s jetsetters – the coastal town of Portofino is one of the most beautiful European ports. In addition to its radiant coastline, it has plenty of great shopping, seafood restaurants a plenty, and many glamorous places to rest your head at the end of the day. (But it’s also easy to a day trip; Genoa is a mere 50-minute drive away.)

Where to stay: It really doesn’t get more indulgent than the extravagant 70-room Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino , installed in a 16th-century monastery overlooking the town’s iconic turquoise waters. But if there’s no room up the hill, head to the harbour and see if any of the 16 rooms of the Splendido Mare, an extension of the property, are available.

Sperlonga, Lazio

Sperlonga was the former hideaway of many Roman emperors, and it’s no wonder: The tiny town’s pristine beaches, lush greenery, and proximity to Rome – just an hour by train – makes it the perfect weekend escape. The town also has an excellent museum, Museo Archeologico di Sperlonga , which is set amongst the ancient ruins of Emperor Tiberius’ old villa. The Torre Truglia, located at the tip of the promontory on which Sperlonga is built, has the best views in town.

Where to stay: The digs at Hotel Marconi are simple and clean, though of course what you’re really here for is the easy access to the beachfront. The rooms are categorized by size and views – “city” or “sea.” It’s pretty obvious which one you should spring for.

Positano, Campania

It seems like everyone is trying to visit Positano these days, and if you’ve ever opened a social media app in the summertime, it’s easy to see why. This fishing village-turned-global destination is famous for its beautiful harbour and elegant Moorish-style architecture – all set gorgeously along the cliffs of the Italian coast. Bear in mind that crowds in the peak season can be suffocating, and that a visit in the off-season can help local businesses during periods of low foot traffic; not to mention, you’ll avoid the hordes.

Where to stay: The obvious answer here is the iconic Le Sirenuse , which recently unveiled its stunningly redesigned pool. Perhaps less ubiquitous on Instagram but just as magnificent is Il San Pietro di Positano , serenely perched on a silver cliff outside of the main drag of the town.

Aci Trezza, Sicily

Aci Trezza, a tiny fishing community on the Ionian coast of Sicily, is often overshadowed by its larger neighbours, Acireale and Catania. But its diminutive size offers a level of tranquillity not found in more popular tourist spots. The town is best known for the isole dei ciclopi – three jagged rocks that jut out of the water, right off the coast – which, according to legend, are the rocks that the Cyclops hurled at Odysseus in Homer’s Odyssey . The oceanfront is also home to some of the coast’s best seafood restaurants, like Il Covo Marino , where the menu changes daily, depending on the morning's catch.

Where to stay: There are a number of small hotels in town, but Airbnb has some worthy options for spending the night, including this terraced penthouse less than a block away from the water.

Praiano, Campania

Also along the Amalfi Coast lies the town of Praiano, conveniently sandwiched between Positano and Amalfi, making it a perfect base from which to visit both. The comune is packed with white-sand beaches like Marina di Praia and Gavitella – and lots of culture to boot. For all the history nerds, come here for stunning ancient churches like the 12th-century Church of San Luca Evangelista, which has Renaissance paintings attributed to Giovanni Bernardo Lama.

Where to stay: Watch the Amalfi sunrise over the bountiful breakfast buffet at the Hotel Tramonto d’Oro , situated on the western end of town, along the Via Gennaro Capriglione.

Manarola, Liguria

Manarola is one of the oldest towns in the Cinque Terre , and arguably one of the most beautiful. It’s known primarily for its fishing, wine-making and excellent hiking in the hills and vineyards above the town. Don’t miss the famous walking trail called Via dell’Amore – literally translated: the road of love –that connects the town to nearby Riomaggiore. It’s been closed due to damage incurred during landslides, but the flat half-mile path is set to reopen in the summer of 2024 .

Where to stay: Well-equipped hotels in the towns of Cinque Terre are pretty slim. There are guesthouses and Airbnbs to be found, but it’s recommended to base yourself in La Spezia, where you can book The Poet Hotel , and visit the small towns along the coast via rail and ferry.

Sorrento, Campania

Despite the lack of a beach, tourists love Sorrento, which straddles the cliffs overlooking the Bay of Naples. The old town – with Piazza Tasso, a square bustling with cafes, and the 14th-century the Chiesa di San Francesco – makes a great base for exploring surrounding areas: the Amalfi Coast to the east, Pompeii to the north, and the island of Capri offshore. Get here by driving or by ferry from Naples.

Where to stay: Check into the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria for Italian opulence as well as convenience. This five-star property, with its Michelin-starred restaurant Terraza Bosquet and La Serra spa, sits just a ten-minute walk away from the Porta di Sorrento, where boats and ferries can take you all over the Sorrentine Peninsula.

Castelsardo, Sardinia

Sardinia is best known for its pristine beaches and mind-blowing culinary scene, both of which you can find easily in the vicinity of Castelsardo, on the island’s northern coast. But Castelsardo is also a remarkably well-maintained piece of a history that dates back to the Nuragic civilisation that made Sardinia its home during the Bronze Age, almost 4,000 years ago. Remnants of that ancient legacy can be found in the area, in the region’s signature nuraghe ruins, but you can also fast-forward a few millennia and take in sweeping views of the ocean from the town's cathedral, built in the 16th century.

Where to stay: The Riviera Castelsardo Hotel and Spa has everything you need for a stay on the island, including proximity to Porta di Castelsardo as well as Castello dei Doria , a fortified castle that offers magnificent views of the sea.

Camogli, Liguria

This small Italian fishing village nestled on the Italian Riviera isn’t just pretty – it’s surprisingly happening, too. In addition to rows of candy-coloured homes, there’s a small harbour with shops and restaurants, a carousel near the water, and a large piazza that’s a perfect spot for sipping coffee and people-watching. Given its short distance from Genoa just thirty minutes away by car, it’s a lovely alternative (or addition) to a trip to Portofino.

Where to stay: Make a beeline for the pool area at Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi ; its deck area directly faces the ravishing Ligurian Sea, with only a balustrade, a small strip of verdant land, and a two-story drop to separate the two.

Polignano a Mare, Apulia

Thirty minutes away by car from the city of Bari, the picture-perfect town of Polignano a Mare rises out of a cliff face on the Adriatic Sea. In addition to breathtaking views over the Adriatic, the town is also filled with charming, white-washed streets, enchanting old churches, and beaches with warm turquoise waters, like the white-pebble strip called Cala Porto, fenced by an ancient Roman bridge.

Where to stay: With a name like Sei Stelle Mama – in Italian, loosely, “six-star mother” – this small but polished bayside guest house promises warm hospitality and stellar service. For more urban digs, there are plenty of options in nearby Bari.

Atrani, Campania

Tucked between two cliffs overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, the village of Atrani is the Amalfi Coast’s best-kept secret. It’s often bypassed en route to the larger and more famous towns of Amalfi, Positano, and Sorrento, and this is a good thing – you’ll almost always have its beautiful churches, piazzas and charming trattorias (the fresh seafood and smoked mozzarella at A’Paranza is to-die-for) all to yourself. Added bonus: It’s an easy 30-minute stroll from Amalfi.

Where to stay: Hotel Luna Convento is housed in, you guessed it, a former monastery. (The Italians sure do love their convents-turned-hotels.) It’s situated on a parcel of land that juts out into the sea, on a spot equidistant from both Amalfi and Atrani. Because why not do both?

Levanzo, Sicily

With a population of around 450 and a total area of 6 square kilometres, Levanzo is the smallest of the three Aegadian Islands, off Sicily’s western coast – and it’s worth a visit for anyone trying to get away from all the noise of modern life. The island’s town of the same name is the launching point to explore the whole island, best experienced by following the extensive hiking trails as they pass through fertile agricultural plains, and gently climb towards peaks that offer spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea. Once you’ve worked up a sweat, stop for a dip on one of the island’s many beaches, like Cala Tramontana, an isolated bay walled in by limestone cliffs.

Where to stay: There aren’t many spots where you can overnight on the island of Levanzo itself, so you're better off booking a room on nearby Isola di Favignana, which has a handful of options. Stay at Il Baglio sull’Acqua , a resort just a five-minute draft from the Porti di Favignana.

This story was originally published on Condé Nast Traveller US

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How to Plan the Perfect Road Trip in Southern Italy

Rolling hills dotted by olive trees, gorgeous beaches with turquoise water, poppy fields, vineyards, and charming villages—if you think this is Tuscany, think again. Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot, is all this and more, and now it’s coming onto the radar of American travelers in a big way. And since the area isn’t very well connected by public transit, a road trip is the way to go. Here’s how to do it.

Fly into Bari—one of Puglia’s two international airports—and rent a premium car from Hertz Italy in the arrivals hall. Kick off the trip by checking into Borgo Egnazia , a member of Leading Hotels of the World that was a pioneer of luxury travel in the region. Run by Aldo Melpignano, whose family owns four luxury hotels in the area and one in London, it was designed by Pino Brescia to look like the platonic ideal of a traditional Puglian village, complete with a piazza surrounded by casette (little houses), three restaurants, three outdoor pools, and a golf course. Head to Borgo Egnazia’s beach club, Cala Masciola , for a fresh seafood lunch overlooking the sea, and don’t miss dinner at Due Camini, which earned a Michelin star last fall for its innovative take on Puglian cuisine. If you’re lucky enough to be in house while they host one of their summer parties, be sure to go.

Entrance to Borgo Egnazia.

This spring, Masseria Torre Maizza , a Rocco Forte Hotel, opened minutes away from Borgo Egnazia, bringing a new luxury option to the area. With just 40 rooms and suites, it’s much smaller than its neighbor, so it’s a good option for travelers who like the intimacy of a boutique hotel. Like Masseria San Domenico —another member of Leading Hotels of the World run by the Melpignano family—it’s housed in a renovated masseria , one of the traditional Puglian farmhouses that dot the region.

While you’re in the area, head to Ostuni, known as la città bianca (the white city). With narrow lanes leading up a hill surrounded by whitewashed buildings, it looks like a village in the Greek islands. Borgo Egnazia can arrange a guided tour of the town with a stop at Masseria Brancati , an ancient olive oil mill, where you can admire 2,000-year-old olive trees and taste the golden liquid they produce.

A guest room at Trullo Melograno.

The northern part of Puglia—known as the Valle d’Itria—is dotted by trulli , centuries-old dwellings topped by conical roofs. Legend has it the area’s inhabitants would dismantle the homes when the tax collectors showed up and rebuild as soon as they left. The town of Alberobello boasts the largest concentration of trulli and is protected by UNESCO, but some of the trulli in the surrounding countryside have been converted into B&Bs or villas. Villa rental company the Thinking Traveller has a few of these ancient buildings in its portfolio, and one of the most charming is Trullo Melograno . Book a stay there to see what it’s like to live in one of these rustic homes and you can have a local chef prepare a home-cooked meal. As part of its Think Experiences program, the Thinking Traveller also offers an exclusive tour of Alberobello, paired with a cheesemaking experience at a nearby farm, where you can see how mozzarella and burrata are made.

Two more must-visit towns in the area are Monopoli and Polignano a Mare, both of which you can see in a day. Head to Monopoli for pizza at La Dolce Vita and stroll the picturesque streets of the historic center and the seafront promenade. Then go to Polignano a Mare, which is built on a series of cliffs overlooking the sea and a small but beautiful beach. Stop for an Aperol Spritz at one of the little cafés on the piazza or overlooking the water, or splurge on a meal at the famous Grotta Palazzese , built into the side of a cliff. Design lovers who want to bring home some ceramics should make a detour to the town of Grottaglie. There are many studios and shops to peruse, but the best is Enza Fasano Ceramiche , a family-run shop that makes gorgeous tableware, plant holders, and decorative objects.

Enza Fasano Ceramiche.

A bit farther away but worth the trip is Matera, this year’s European Capital of Culture and one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities. It’s technically in Basilicata, but it only takes about 90 minutes to get there. To really understand this fascinating city known for its sassi (cave dwellings), it’s best to hire an expert guide like Fabio Congedo of Imago Artis , who can explain its complicated history and show you the best spots in town. “Matera needs to be visited, since the reasons why it has been included in UNESCO’s World Heritage list are still standing,” Congedo, a former archaeologist, says.

Il Tabacchificio.

After a few days exploring the lush Valle d’Itria, make your way south to Salento. The Thinking Traveller has a variety of villas in this area too, but the most jaw-dropping one is Il Tabacchificio . This spacious villa occupies a former tobacco factory and is filled with furniture by Gaetano Pesce, Eero Saarinen, and Verner Panton, as well as objects the owners—the Italian ambassador to Ghana and his wife—picked up on their travels.

The villa is so gorgeous it’ll be hard to tear yourself away, but there’s a lot to explore in this part of Puglia. To try some of the region’s best wines, book a tasting at Duca Carlo Guarini , in the tiny village of Scorrano. The duke’s noble family has been making wine here for 900 years, and you can taste their expertise in the glass. His wife, Lucia Mancini, is also an accomplished ceramist, with her own studio housed in the family palazzo nearby. For dinner that evening, book a table at Masseria Le Stanzíe , which serves traditional Puglian specialties made with vegetables and herbs from the gardens inside a centuries-old farmhouse. It doesn’t get more authentically farm-to-table than that.

A guest suite at Palazzo Daniele.

When in the Salento peninsula, spending time on the beach is a must. The farther south you go, the shorter the distance between the Adriatic and Ionian seas. Drive down to Santa Maria di Leuca, the village where the two seas meet. In summer there are beach clubs and you can take a boat ride to explore the grottos. A few minutes away is Gagliano del Capo, where Palazzo Daniele , a new member of Design Hotels, just opened in the family palazzo of art collector Francesco Petrucci. He and Gabriele Salini of G-Rough in Rome teamed up to transform the aristocratic residence into an intimate hotel, restoring the original frescoes and tiles and adding art by contemporary artists.

Another new hotel in the Salento is the Palazzo Maritati e Muci , a passion project of Michelin-starred French chef Guy Martin. Guests can stay in one of the 10 rooms spread over two palazzi in Nardò that have been lovingly restored and filled with art and design pieces by Gio Ponti, Charles Garnier, Alvar Aalto, and Ettore Sottsass, among others.

The Lecce waterfront at dusk.

Otranto is another lovely seaside town with a charming historic center and a port. On hot summer days, everyone goes to one of the beach clubs along the coast, like Lido Gold , which is located in the area known as the Maldives of Salento.

Architecture lovers should also spend a day in Lecce with Imago Artis guide Fabio Congedo, who grew up there. The city is famous for its ornate Baroque architecture, and Congedo will point out all the most beautiful buildings. “I was born in Lecce in 1972, so I’ve had the opportunity to notice several changes in its historic center,” he says. “After being nearly abandoned in the ‘70s and early ‘80s, it slowly made a comeback thanks to specific restoration designs and European funds.” In a full-day tour organized by Imago Artis, you can also do a pasta-making class and get a peek inside a privately owned aristocratic palazzo—just one of the hidden charms of this incredible region.

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6 traditional pujos that are worth the drive from Kolkata

While Pujo in Kolkata may be all about the biggest, brightest and most creative pandals, the erstwhile rajbaris and zamindar households across Bengal have managed to retain the traditional grandeur of Durga Pujo by holding on to their age-old practices. Far away from the glitz and glamour of the big city pujos, these family celebrations stand tall in the ruins of time. This year, revel in the spirit of the festivities by driving down to some of these provincial pujos packed with history.

Amadpur Chaudhuri Bari, Bardhaman

Amadpur Durga puja

This is a pujo where Maa Durga is treated to 14 varieties of mishti, and propitiated with a symbolic sacrifice of sugarcane. The Chaudhuri family has retained the fervour of the festival at their family estate in Bardhaman’s Amadpur village for the last 361 years. The house was built in the 17th century, and the architecture is a fine blend of Mughal and local sensibilities. The idyllic countryside replete with freshwater ponds and terracotta temples make for a charming backdrop. The present-day pujo was initiated by Chandra Shekhar Chaudhuri, a spiritual man, who had inherited large acres of land, and built several temples in the vicinity. The family ushers in the festivities with the beats of the dhol , instead of the traditional dhaak , and a live shehnai recital at the Durga bari, a separate courtyard built for worship of the goddess. On the tenth day, a lunch is organised for around 2000 people as part of a pujo welfare programme. Shiladitya Chaudhuri, who belongs to the 38th generation of the family, also runs a homestay on the property. Being a family affair, people are welcome to visit it with prior notice, he says. A pre-booked lunch buffet can be enjoyed on all days of the pujo.

Driving distance from Kolkata: 1.5 to 2 hrs Website: Heritage Homestays Amadpur

Bari Kothi, Murshidabad

Durga Puja at Bari Kothi

How about a pujo with a touch of Jain history? Murshidabad, situated around 240 kms from Kolkata , was once the capital of independent Bengal, before it fell into the hands of the East India Company following the Battle of Plassey. The region saw affluent businessmen migrate from across the country in the 18th century, including Jain merchants from Rajasthan, who came to be known as Sheherwalis or city dwellers. It was Rai Bahadur Budh Singh Dudhoria, who constructed Bari Kothi, or “the palace of the elder”, which has been restored as a heritage hotel. Since the Sheherwalis are originally Jains, Durga pujo was never celebrated until 2021 when the festival made it to UNESCO’s ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage’ list. The seventh generation family members now host a five-day extravagant pujo in tune with the rich culture and heritage of the community. There’s lots to do — designing the alpana , conch blowing competitions and dhunuchi naach , to name a few. The highlight will be an elaborate fare featuring the royal Sheherwali cuisine, a unique blend of Rajasthani vegetarian and Bengali food such as kheere ki kachori , bajre ka khichra and kesariya boondi among others.

Driving distance from Kolkata: 5 hrs Website: Bari Kothi

Bishnupur Rajbari, Bankura

Patachitra of the goddess in Bishnupur

There was a time when a series of cannon blasts marked the arrival of the goddess in Bishnupur, the former kingdom of the Malla dynasty that flourished through the 16th and 17th century. The firing of the cannon has been an integral part of the pujo since then, without which celebrations cannot begin in the terracotta town. The tradition has survived 1026 years at the Mrinmoyee Debi temple that was built around 997 CE, points out Jyoti Prasad Singha Thakur, a member of the 63rd generation of the family. The ceremonial rituals begin days in advance, and include worshipping the goddess on patachitra , an ancient art form painted on cloth-based scrolls, and then welcoming her inside the temple. There is no balidan or animal sacrifice. The mahabhog features the quintessential khichuri made of the finest gobindobhog rice along with a selection of vegetarian items.

Driving distance from Kolkata: 4 hrs Contact: 9434178150

Rajbari Bawali, South 24 Parganas

Idol being prepared in Rajbari Bawali

Once upon a time, Bawali was part of the mighty Sundarban delta. It is on this stretch of mangroves, strategically located on the Hooghly river, that the Mondals decided to build their palatial home some 250 years ago. The family history is laced with stories of conquests and rebellion that involve the Mughals , and later the British . The Mondals were Vaishnavites, and not allowed to worship Shakti. Durga pujo celebrations started only when the three-acre property was transformed into a boutique hotel in 2017. The idea was to introduce people to an affluent zamindar family pujo, as “most of them are not able to experience the rituals either due to a crowded pandal or stringent pujo committee rules,” says resident director Mrinalinee Majumdar. The property offers daycation packages where guests can partake in the actual chores of pujo along with the priest such as cutting fruits, and distributing proshad . On Bijoya Dashami, even the men can participate in sindoor khela , a traditional affair where women smear vermillion on each other. An added plus: you can also take your pooch along.

Driving distance from Kolkata: 1.5 hrs Website: The Rajbari Bawali

Surul Sarkar Zamindar Bari, Birbhum

Naru tossing at Surul Sarkar Zamindar Bari

No matter how archaic they are, some customs give character to a pujo. The Sarkars of Surul, a village near the Visva Bharati University in Shantiniketan, have a rather unique one. On Saptami, the patriarch of the family can be seen tossing naru , a confection similar to ladoo, moulded by the women of the household from his first floor verandah. A crowd of devotees soon gathers to catch the sweets in the courtyard below. Nabanita Sarkar, who is a twelfth generation descendent, says the rituals have been followed in the same way for 288 years, and the occasion brings over 200 families of the lineage together. The idol is traditionally decorated with embellishments of shola , an exquisite craft made using the pith of a plant that grows in the marshy areas. Animal sacrifice is practised even today, following which the meat is cooked without onion and garlic, a preparation commonly known as niramish mangsho , or vegetarian mutton. The goddess is pampered with an assortment of sweets, fruits, lentils, chana or freshly-made paneer, that are neatly laid out in huge bell metal plates. There’s also paan . Visitors can request for proshad after the rituals are completed.

Driving distance from Kolkata: 3.5 to 4 hrs Contact: 9434636372

Jhargram Palace, Jhargram

A sword procession followed by a goat sacrifice—the goddess’ homecoming is a dramatic event at Jhargram Palace. Situated around 180 kms from Kolkata, is the lost kingdom of Malla Deb, where a 500-year-old Durga pujo is carried out in royal grandeur by the 20th generation of the family. Celebrations take place at the Savitri temple , a few metres from the palace , that houses the clan deity of Sarveshwar Malladeb, who was a Rajput general under Raja Man Singh I. Vikramaditya Malladeb suggests making a prior booking to visit the palace, however anyone is welcome to experience the family celebrations at the temple. There is khichuri and ghonto , a mildly-spiced vegetable mishmash that are distributed to the devotees here.

Driving distance from Kolkata: 4 hrs Contact: 9932708295

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