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The Cocos (Keeling) Islands (Cocos Malay: Pulu Kokos (Keeling) , Malay Wilayah Kepulauan Cocos (Keeling) ) or simply Cocos Islands or Keeling Islands are a chain of islands in two adjacent atolls, in the middle of the Indian Ocean some 2,750 km northwest of Perth , and around 900 km west-southwest of Christmas Island . The islands are generally considered to be the southernmost point of Asia.
The Cocos Islands lie approximately 12° south and 96.5° east, locating the islands in the humid tropical zone.
The Cocos Islands are 1.5 hours behind Western Australia Time and 3.5 hours behind Australian Eastern Standard Time (AEST) on standard time; they do not observe daylight saving time.
The islands are remote – they're closer to New Delhi , Taipei , Muscat or Antananarivo than they are to Canberra.
There are 27 coral islands in the group. Captain William Keeling discovered the islands in 1609, but they remained uninhabited until the 19th century. Annexed by the UK in 1857, the archipelago was administered from Ceylon and then later the Colony of Singapore before the territory was transferred to the Australian Government from the Colony of Singapore in 1955. The population on the two inhabited islands generally is split between the ethnic Europeans on West Island and the ethnic Malays on Home Island although the Malay population is significantly larger than the European.
Grown throughout the islands, coconuts are the sole cash crop. Small local gardens and fishing contribute to the food supply, but additional food and most other necessities must be imported from Australia. There is a small tourist industry.
The people who live on the Cocos Islands are mostly the ethnic Cocos Malay people, whose ancestors were from either Peninsular Malaysia, Indonesia, parts of Southern Africa or New Guinea and were brought over as slaves or convicts. Since 2019, they have been seeking approval for "Indigenous Status".
There are two inhabited islands in the group, West Island and Home Island. West Island is the capital of the territory with about 120 inhabitants. It is mostly an English-speaking area with the most tourist facilities, a clinic and an airstrip. The largest village is Bantam on Home Island with a population of around 448 (2021), most of whom follow Sunni Islam and speak the Cocos dialect of the Malay language .
The other islands in the archipelago are uninhabited. Horsburgh Island and South Island are among the larger uninhabited islands. Direction Island, a true island paradise, is connected by ferry every Saturday. It includes a beach that's been identified as the best beach in Australia. Finally, there's North Keeling Island , a national park approximately 50 km north of the other islands. Access to this island is only allowed with permission from Parks Australia.
The Cocos Islands experience two main seasons which tend to overlap: the trade wind season from April/May to September/October and the calmer doldrum season from November through to April. Expect higher rainfall during March through to July. January through to August may also generate the occasional low pressure system (usually between February and April). However these systems do not normally interfere with holiday plans. Rain usually falls in the evenings, bringing glorious sunny days. The average annual rainfall is 2,000 mm. Temperatures are fairly consistent no matter what the season, remaining around a comfortable 29°C with a minimum evening temperature rarely dropping below 20°C.
Flat, low-lying coral atolls, thickly covered with coconut palms and other vegetation.
As the Cocos (Keeling) Islands is an Australian territory, the entry requirements for Australia apply. Bring the needed documentation.
There is an airport on West Island. Virgin Australia has two scheduled triangle flights weekly between Perth , Christmas Island and the Cocos (Keeling) Islands. Flights between Perth and the Islands may include a technical stop at RAAF Learmonth (LEA) en route to refuel. Clockwise service operates on Saturdays and anticlockwise service operates on Tuesdays. One-way flights range in price from $531 to $909, with advance purchase returns available for $1054.
Yachts can dock at the Cocos Islands. Bring required documents. Because of their remoteness and infrequency of boats, all arriving yachts must send a notice to Customs at latest four days (96 hr) before arrival, radio police (VHF channel 20) when arriving, drop anchor at the anchorage at Direction Island, display the yellow 'quarantine' flag, radio again, and await the police. See the required procedures [ dead link ] .
A local bus service from West Island Settlement to the jetty operates approximately 20 minutes prior to the departure of the ferry to Home Island and costs $0.50. The best place to catch the bus is in fact not the designated bus stop on Sydney Highway opposite the airport, as the bus doesn't always go by there. Instead, follow airport employees to the park just north of the terminal at the far end of Alexander Street, and wait on the bench in the shaded area.
On Saturday the ferry diverts to Direction Island to allow tourists and locals access to this remote paradise. The ferry returns in the afternoon to return you to West Island. The fee is $2.50. Timetables are available from the Tourism office or the Duty Free Shop.
The main language is Cocos Malay, not English. However, almost all the locals (other than some elderly people) can speak English, enough for communication, and most people on the West Island are English-speaking.
Take cultural tours with some of the local tour operators or guide yourself around the islands to explore why they call the Cocos Islands a "nature and water lover's paradise".
During the year, as well as the traditional events such as Easter, New Year, Christmas, the Cocos host a number of unique events. These include the annual Lagoon swim, where competitors swim from Home Island across the lagoon to West Island. Individuals or teams may enter and whether you are a serious contender or wish to join in with the Hash House Harriers (who always seem to get themselves disqualified for one thing or another), everyone has a load of fun. It finishes in the evening with dinner and presentations to the winners and boat drivers.
Other unique events are the mid-year Cocos Ball, quiz nights, Music & Wine festival, Ardmona Cup and Cocos Olympics. All visitors are encouraged to join in with these festivities and activities. Dates vary from year to year. Please check with the Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association before booking for events.
Visitors to the island are also welcome to participate in the School Fete, Sports Carnival and concert events.
Being an external territory of Australia, the currency used on the islands is the Australian dollar .
As most supplies are shipped by boat or air only a few times per month, everything is on the limited and pricier side. Make sure to bring all your necessities before coming in. If you are bringing in vegetables or fruits, present your receipt to the customs.
Malay cuisine is a selection of rice, noodles, curry and chilli, featuring chicken, beef, lamb and seafood dishes. Food is prepared to be flavoursome and not particularly hot, unless requested.
Don't want to eat at a restaurant? Usually, every third Friday, the different social clubs of Cocos prepare a "food night" at the Cocos Club. Excellently priced meals are offered along with raffles and good-natured fun. Come along, share a meal. The Cocos Club also offers visitors a great venue to get to know the locals and join in with any activity that is happening.
Fresh water resources are limited to rainwater accumulations in natural underground reservoirs.
Respect Ramadan , although unlike in some other countries, the locals won't really mind you eating in public.
When visiting Home Island, make sure to dress appropriately with your shoulders and knees covered, but also don't overdo it – make sure you're comfortable, as the tropical sun can burn you out. It's also customary to seek permission before photographing the locals. You also cannot enter the Home Island Mosque without being accompanied by a Muslim.
Mobile phone connections are by a satellite link. Unless you bring your own satellite phone or long-range radio, you need to use the local rather expensive Wi-Fi. Most modern mobile phones allow you to use Wi-Fi for calls by a simple settling, given your provider offers VoIP service for you. You could also install your own Internet telephony app. Mobile phones are available for hire.
You might want to turn off updates and any non-necessary traffic during your stay. Because of the hassle and expensive price, you might want to just go offline.
Cellphones for hire and Wi-Fi vouchers are available from the Community Resource Centre [ dead link ] . The Wi-Fi vouchers costs $6.95 per hour, $19.95 per day, or $64.95 per week (check limits on data volumes), or $10/1GB or $25/5GB valid for a fortnight. These can be used at hotspots islands-wide. Mobile phone for-hire are $10/day, $35/week, $60/2 weeks or $100/month.
It is wise to pre-book your phone or voucher by emailing the community centre at [email protected] , so that you can retrieve them at your accommodation in case of a flight delay, instead of waiting for next office hours.
Julia D’Orazio is a travel writer based in Perth, Australia. Besides happily eating her way in over 70 countries, she counts Eurovision and scuba diving as her two greatest loves. Julia has also been featured in publications worldwide including Traveller, New York Post, Rough Guides, News.com.au, Travel Africa magazine and more.
Learn about We Are Explorers' Editorial Standards
As the Editor, if you read WAE, you've more than likely read something Amy's written. Amy lives on Larrakia land in the NT and is frequently on the hunt for new bodies of freshwater to dunk herself into. She has a preference for adventures slightly off the beaten track, with a penchant for multi-day hikes and a new found love of paddling.
Cocos (Keeling) Islands is Australia’s most remote territory, covering a mere 14km² in the Indian Ocean, and is closer to Indonesia than mainland Australia. The blend of holidaymakers and Cocos Malay culture makes the idyllic islands a unique destination to explore at your own pace.
About cocos (keeling) islands.
‘Postcard-perfect’ gets thrown around a lot, but the description is apt when exploring Cocos (Keeling) Islands. The under-explored paradise is sprawled across 27 low-lying islands in the shape of a necklace, formed by coral atolls. Most are covered with coconut palms and fringed by golden beaches and all shades of blue waters.
Below the surface, its warm waters are abundant with marine life and colourful reefs.
will leave you in disbelief!
The islands remain largely untouched, with only two out of 27 islands inhabited by around 600 people. West Island is where holidaymakers descend, with room for only 144 visitors at any time. The island’s hub includes an information centre, three casual eateries with outdoor dining, bars, and one supermarket.
Cocos is hardly a bustling place, which makes it so appealing: it’s unruffled, exudes laidback charms, and is easy to get around.
You’ll enjoy the slow, tropical rhythm
Cocos’ other main island, Home, is the heart of Malay culture. It’s reached via a 30-minute ferry from West Island. The village is home to 450 residents, with locals getting around by golf carts, dining out at two eateries, and practising religion at a local mosque.
But what do locals do for fun? Gratification is found in nature – and of course, some ‘toys’ help to aid that. Scuba diving , snorkelling , kayaking , e-biking, fishing , and golf are some local pastimes in the ‘lagoon’.
There’s a good reason behind the islands’ fruitful name…
It’s believed that Captain William Keeling was the first European to sight the islands in 1609 while en route from the Dutch East Indies. But it wasn’t until the 19th century that the islands were settled. After a brief visit, Scottish trader Captain John Clunies Ross decided to call the islands his home.
He moved with his family to settle the islands in 1827. The family, dubbed the King of Cocos, ruled the islands for over 150 years. They were at the helm of the island’s principal industry source – coconuts – mainly exporting to South East Asia.
Look how many coconuts we had to dodge on this track
Cocos became an Australian territory in 1955, with Australia purchasing all the land – except the Clunies Ross family home – in 1978. The United Nations stepped in in 1984 when the Cocos-Malay population voted to become Australian citizens. Since then, Cocos has been headed by the Australian Government.
Virgin Australia operates two flights weekly – on Tuesday and Friday – from Perth. Flights are under five hours, with the outbound flight stopping at Exmouth to refuel.
Bye Perth, hello paradise | Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association
It’s possible to double dip on the island getaway with flights stopping at Christmas Island too, making it the perfect opportunity to explore Australia’s distant territories.
Read more: Top Tips For Travelling Faster (and Comfier!) With Carry-On Only
Although considered a relatively small island at 10km2, hiring a car is the best way to get around the West Island.
A handful of car hire operators are on the island, with prices starting from $85 per day.
Jump in the car and get ready to go troppo | Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association
Read more: Remember to leave no trace!
Island life calls for a very specific packing list…
…which is anything to help you get underwater
The Cocos (Keeling) Islands have a few accommodation options on both islands, however, most options are located on West Island. Resorts, high-rises, there’s none to be found here. Cocos can only accommodate 144 people at any given time, with most options simple digs.
Cost per night : $400 per night (max five guests) Suitable for : Couples, families, friends Facilities : Fully self-contained cottages with two bedrooms, kitchenette, bathroom with washing machine and outdoor seating
The comfortably modish Cocos Cottages overlooks the runway and golf course and is a short stroll to West Island’s hub.
Cost per night : $310 per night (two guests) Suitable for : Couples Facilities : Fully self-contained bungalows with kitchenette, bathroom, and outdoor deck. Guests have access to shared laundry, BBQs, and sporting equipment
Treat yourself to a plush island getaway with a stay at the West Island’s Breakers. Moments from the airport, the accommodation offers ten bungalows surrounded by tropical gardens.
Cost per night : $160 per night (two guests) Suitable for : Couples Facilities : Choose between a master or twin bedrooms. Rooms can be combined to offer a three-bedroom stay.
Immerse yourself in Cocos Malay culture with a homestay on Home Island. The simple accommodation offers bedrooms with bathrooms and access to a private lounge and kitchenette. Traditional Cocos Malay cuisine is available upon request.
Looking for something different? Check out more accommodation options on Cocos (Keeling) Islands.
You’ll be sleeping among the coconut trees | Photo by Karen Wilshaw
Indecision on where to eat out doesn’t really exist in Cocos. There are a handful of eateries available across the islands. With most options available on the West Island, here are the best places to eat.
Surfer Girl Brewery
Chase good vibes at Surfer Girl Brewery. Sit in the alfresco area to watch an ocean sunset and enjoy its themed cuisine nights. The brewery is open Monday to Thursday and from 7.30am Sunday for weekend brekky. Book a table on the signage board outside the restaurant.
Horizons and watery sunsets around here are endless | Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association
Salty’s Bakery + Grill
Head to the hole-in-the-wall takeout for a hearty feed. It’s open Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday nights, offering daily specials such as stone-grilled pizzas, locally caught fish and chips, and Indonesian-inspired cuisine.
Need a morning pick-me-up? The eatery has got you covered with coffee, toasties, and other delicious baked goodies available from 7.30am.
The Big Barge Art Centre & Sula Sula Servery Café
The island’s most quirky café comes in the form of a beautifully restored barge. The multi-purpose boat is an art gallery, souvenir store, and coffee shop in palm tree coastal surroundings. The Big Barge Art Centre has multiple areas to enjoy a cuppa or iced tea – think swinging chairs, boat decking or under the trees – and watch the waves slowly roll in.
The café is open Tuesdays and Wednesdays only, 9am – 11am.
For an authentic taste of the islands, head to Tropika , opposite Cocos Club. The eatery serves Halal-certified Cocos Malay and Aussie bites with indoor and outdoor seating. It’s open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Make sure to check out the $12 lunch specials to save some coins.
Join in local revelry at Cocos Club . Open every day from 5pm, the no-frills bar is the hub of all social happenings after a day out on the big blue. Grab a drink at Happy Hour (5:30-6:30pm) and mingle with locals in the outdoor undercover area. If you’re feeling peckish, grab a takeaway from Salty’s Bakery + Grill and Tropika and eat it on premise.
There’s a bottle shop onsite selling duty-free alcohol and spirits if you prefer to make the most of your island accommodation.
Features a bunch of other eateries including:
The Big Barge Art Centre on the West Island
Cocos (Keeling) Islands is hardly a place to stay idle. Get active both on land and in the water, discovering its colourful universe moments with these activities to do in Cocos.
One of the best things to do in Cocos is to hop on a boat. But instead of a tour, why not steer the boat yourself? Besides offering fishing and boat tours, Cocosday also offers dinghy hire with no skipper ticket required.
Cruise around the south end of the lagoon and take your pick of the island to relax and snorkel offshore.
The water’s so clear you’ll know what’s taking the bait! | Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association
It’s better to get to know Cocos’ underwater residents by scissor-kicking alongside them. The island’s only dive centre, Cocos Dive , offers dive trips in the famed lagoon, home to clear, warm waters and pristine and vivid reefs. Let dive instructor Dieter Gerhard show you around soaring coral gardens. Feast on a picnic lunch at Direction Island, where you can also attempt to snorkel the famous drift snorkel, The Rip.
In between dives, there’s even a chance to swim alongside Manta rays (they’re easy to spot in clear waters!), making it an exceptional day out at sea.
Read more: A Beginner’s Guide to Scuba Diving
It’s the best way to explore the underwater wonders
Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association
A public ferry journeys across the lagoon to the local playground, Direction Island, twice weekly – Thursday and Friday – from West Island and Home Island. The island has an eco-toilet, wood-fired BBQs, walking trails, and shaded picnic tables. It costs $5 for a return ticket with only one departure and return time available.
The island is perfect for lazing on the sand or completing the drift snorkel, as the rip passes over an underwater ridge teeming with marine life.
Please note : Only confident swimmers should attempt to complete this drift snorkel, as its fast current can be dangerous.
Explore the West Island on two wheels. Phat Tours Cocos offers E-bike tours and bicycle hire if you want to give your leg muscles a proper workout.
Bike 🤝 beach
Uncover Home Island’s unique Cocos Malay culture on a tour with local, Ossie. The Home Island and lunch tour includes a guided exploration around the main village and demonstrations of coconut husking and basket weaving.
Savour the taste of Cocos Malay cuisine with a meal prepared by locals and enjoyed along the foreshore.
Witnessing magic being weaved
It’s easy to fall in love with the unique laidback lifestyle of Cocos (Keeling) Islands. And even though it’s technically part of Australia, it has its quirks that make it different from visiting any other domestic destination via flight. Visitors must bring their passports and complete an immigration form upon arrival in case of a forced emergency landing in Jakarta.
You’ll also quickly realise how safe and trustworthy island locals are. For car rentals, it’s advised to leave your key in the vehicle. This avoids losing the key, a headache for all to get a spare sent to the island!
You’ll go nuts for the Cocos (Keeling) Islands
Do australians need a passport for cocos (keeling) islands.
Technically Aussies don’t need to bring a passport as it’s an external territory of Australia. However, it is strongly advised that you do and complete an immigration form upon arrival in case of a forced emergency landing in Jakarta.
The dry season, May to October, could be a great time to visit as it’s more likely to be sunny with cooler temps and lower humidity (less chance of cyclones too!).
The main spoken languages on Cocos (Keeling) Islands are Cocos Malay and English.
According to the 2021 Census , about 600 people inhabit the Cocos (Keeling) Islands.
Julia D’Orazio was a guest of the Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association .
Feature photo by Ryan Chatfield & Table of Contents photo by Karen Wilshaw
This piece was brought to you by a real living human who felt the wind in their hair and described their adventure in their own words. This is because we rate authenticity and the sharing of great experiences in the natural world – it’s all part of our ethos here at We Are Explorers. You can read more about it in our Editorial Standards .
Journalist + Photographer
08 February 2024
Look closer: twenty-seven sand-smudged islands don’t so much leap from the ocean, as lay luxuriating in blissful blue-gem waters.
One of only three external Australian territories, reached by a 4.5-hour flight from Perth International Airport, little-known Cocos (Keeling) Islands is set to snag a slot in the nation’s top ten secluded islands chart.
Arm yourself with a knowledge of the rich history before heading on your Cocos (Keeling) island holiday, then wrap yourself in Cocos’ balmy days, far from the madding crowds.
Welcome to Cocos, a perfect arc of pristine islands. Covering a mere 14.2 sq km, this pocket-sized destination is slightly larger than Los Angeles International Airport, though, happily, with far less people.
Only two of the 27 islands, West Island – the main tourist hub, and Home Island – the cultural hub, are inhabited with a population of around 600.
It’s where travellers flick on the off-grid button and reconnect to the natural world around them.
If people-watching is on your agenda, look elsewhere. But if the great Greta Garbo’s whimsy, “I want to be alone” tops your holiday agenda, you’ve found the ultimate landing place.
Cocos’ deserted beaches skirt isles where silken sand slips into a crystal-clear ocean created for downtime. Don your snorkel, pack your beach bag, and add a good read – tranquillity is just the throw of a sand-ball away.
Enjoy true solitude on your Cocos (Keeling) island holiday. (Image: Lynn Gail)
Catch the local ferry – Cahaya Baru – from West to Home Island. On arrival, listen for the soulful Islamic call to prayer coming from the village mosque. It will give you a sense of the Cocos Malay’s peaceful existence, but it wasn’t always so.
Back in 1826, slaves, mostly of Malay descent, were transported over by Alexander Hare, a British sea merchant and known womaniser, to work in the islands’ coconut plantations. Conditions were tough, living quarters basic, food rationed, hours long and laborious.
Hare, and Scottish sea captain John Clunies-Ross, ruled the settlements and plantations until a fierce rivalry between the two resulted in Hare being forced off the islands.
Influenced by both Asian and Scottish traditions, and cut off from the world at large, the Cocos Malay developed their own dialect.
They even had their own, but worthless currency, which is now displayed in the Pulu Cocos Museum, located in the island’s quiet Malaysian Kampong.
Listen for the soulful Islamic call. (Image: Lynn Gail)
If you have time for a little pre-planning and a spare eight hours up your Cocos (Keeling) island holiday sleeve, talk to the Visitor Centre team on West Island about how to island walk, between Islands.
You’ll need to catch the ferry to Home Island – the service runs several times a day. Start your walk around the horseshoe-shaped atoll near Home Island’s sailing club. It’s the only place in the world you can navigate an atoll on foot.
Depending on timing and conditions you may need guidance from a local operator and you’ll definitely want to let the Visitor Centre know when you’re heading off. The staff will give you directions and track your return.
Also, be sure to start at low tide as during high tide it’s impossible to wade through the ocean on foot.
Look out for black-tip reef sharks, turtles, and tropical fish as they play in the shallows. Just below the water’s surface, iridescent clams will open and shut as your shadow falls across their light-sensitive shells.
Beware, it’s 20km of uneven lagoon, rocky shores, and thick coconut forest. The stunning postcard scenery is well worth the long, salty sea-slog though.
Walk with the abundant marine life on Cocos (Keeling) Island holiday. (Image: Christmas Cocos Islands Tourism Association)
Home Islanders have seen their fair share of hardship, but when Queen Elizabeth II and the late Duke of Edinburgh came to visit in 1954 – after the royal couple’s mainland tour of Australia – the Cocos Malays put on a grandiose welcome.
Everyone was invited to a garden party at Oceania House (the Clunies-Ross residence) where the Queen and Duke met the island’s oldest residents.
With Union Jack flags raised high and cultural dances performed on the streets, the royal couple were farewelled as they boarded the liner SS Gothic, to continue their world tour heading to Sri Lanka.
Chat with older residents on Home Island, and you’ll likely come across someone who remembers the day the royal couple stepped ashore.
It was such a momentous occasion; four Australian stamps were created to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the historical event.
Receive a warm welcome from the small population. (Image: Lynn Gail)
For such a pin-sized destination, Cocos packs several ‘world-only’ experiences into its welcome-to-paradise itinerary.
The Cocos Keeling Island golf club boasts the only course in the world with an international runway. Join friendly club-swinging locals, and play Scroungers Golf on a Thursday afternoon.
The West Islanders will assist with your wardrobe too (thongs, t-shirt, boardies) and show you the ropes – namely, where to pop a couple of cold ones between your golf clubs.
Your teammates will introduce you to the course’s ‘creative’ rules and have you chuckling all the way to the ninth hole. Stay for the winner announcements where there are signature Cocos Golf Club balls up for grabs.
Play golf across an international airport runway. (Image: Lynn Gail)
With a handful of petty crimes tried throughout the year by a judge who comes across from mainland Australia, Cocos is rare indeed.
Police officers lucky enough to receive a two-year posting to the two-man police station rarely reach for their incident logbook.
Residents leave doors unlocked in case neighbours call for the proverbial cup of sugar and keys are left in the ignition if anyone needs wheels. You won’t be judged for thinking you’re in a time warp, stepping back to trustier times.
The pilot’s announcement: “Cabin crew, please be seated for landing,” will have you scanning the empty, turquoise-tinged ocean with one question, “Where, exactly?”
Rest assured, palm-fringed beaches come into view moments before you touchdown.
The airport has a history too. Due to Cocos’ position in the Indian Ocean, the exposed and unprotected islands became a target during World War II, necessitating the construction of a strategically placed air force base.
Fast forward to 1951 when Qantas, seeing the airport as a potential refuelling site, began using the base for flights crossing the Indian Ocean bound for South Africa.
The route went from Sydney to Perth, across to Cocos, onto Mauritius, and finally to Johannesburg.
Try not to panic and enjoy the view as you first glimpse the Cocos from your plane. (Image: Lynn Gail)
Adventurer, explorer, and ambitious sea merchant Captain William Keeling discovered the idyllic islands whilst exploring the area for the trading outfit, East India Company, in 1609.
During his voyage from Java to England, Keeling didn’t view the islands as income generators and, after discovering the atolls, never claimed ownership.
He was on a mission to find tropical lands laden with spices and exotic wares to traffic for the East India Company. Tea, opium, silk, indigo, and even slaves, were on the company’s most sought-after items inventory.
When you’re floating aimlessly around the palm-hemmed islets, take a moment to imagine how these glinting gems rose from the Indian Ocean.
The breathtaking isles sit atop an old volcanic seamount, rising some 5,000 metres from the ocean floor. Scientific studies show the islands are adolescents, between 3,000 and 4,000 years old.
When you consider Australia is home to the world’s oldest geological rock, dating back over 3,000 million years, Cocos is indeed the new kid on the block.
But only the strong survive – there is no lifeform when atolls forge, all animal and plant life must survive the ocean before becoming established.
In March 2022, Parks Australia declared the Cocos (Keeling) Islands marine park a protected area. So if you swim, snorkel, or dive, marvel at the many incredible species which have clung on to survive and thrive around the healthy reefs and in deeper ocean waters.
Spot clams while snorkelling the protected marine park. (Image: Lynn Gail)
Legend has it the Cocos Malay believe a mermaid lives on Prison Island and calls any Cocos-born islanders home if they leave her shores.
Alexander Hare’s hut stroke harem housed 40 Cocos Malay women on the island until they gradually escaped across the water to settle on Home Island.
Sadly, the picturesque isle is slowly being washed away by rising tides. What was once covered in swaying palms bearing hinged hammocks, is now a sandy mound.
Visit before it disappears and wonder how those island women survived there with so few comforts, serving one man.
The black-tip reef sharks gently riding the waves to shore will bring you back to its now serene surroundings.
Take in the sparkling waters and black-tip reef sharks surrounding Prison Island. (Image: Lynn Gail)
The Clunies-Ross family ruled the Cocos (Keeling) Islands for five generations, earning the title ‘Kings of Cocos’.
They built themselves a lavish stately mansion on 12-acres of botanical garden overlooking a lagoon. Furnished with palatial trimmings, Oceania House – with its seven-bedrooms, six-bathrooms, grand ballroom, and central spiral staircase – was completed in 1904, becoming a heritage-listed residence in 2004.
The Clunies-Ross family retained the land until 1993, when the two-storey home was sold to the Federal Government for $1.2m.
Avid historians and antique collectors, Avril and Lloyd Leist purchased the property some 20 years ago, restoring it to its former 19th-century glory. The couple turned the residence into a bed and breakfast, offering visitors a Victorian-themed stay.
The infamous property is now under new ownership, having recently changed hands again, with plans to refurbish the bed and breakfast. Book yourself in and meet the friendly ghosts reputed to roam the hallways at night.
Stay the night at Oceania House – the family home of the ‘Kings of Cocos’. (Image: Lynn Gail)
You’ve come all this way, so why not explore Christmas Island – Cocos’ nearest neighbour, a 1.5-hour flight away.
Unlike the gentle jewelled isles of Cocos, its jungle-clad landscape rises to 1,184 feet at its highest point.
The island is home to weird and wonderful creatures, and a birder’s paradise to boot. The famous Christmas Island red crab roams the craggy outcrop like they’re the Kings of Christmas. The huge resident robber crab can crack a coconut open with its powerful pincer claws.
If you go, check out the Chinese temples – Taoist and Buddhist pagodas are dotted throughout the easy-to-navigate forest. The views across the vast Indian Ocean, where some of the world’s best diving spots are located, will take your breath away.
Pop over to watch the crabs on Christmas Island’s Ethel Beach. (Image: Justin Gilligan)
After his voyage to Cocos on the HMS Beagle in 1836, Charles Darwin formed his theory of atoll formation.
Darwin believed volcanic islands that were subsiding in the Pacific Ocean would eventually create a coral atoll. During his visit to the tropical islands, he found evidence to support his theory and after returning to England his material was met with enthusiasm.
Six short years later he produced a book on coral reef formation.
Spend your Cocos (Keeling) island holiday pondering the world in a hammock. (Image: Lynn Gail)
For a minute land mass, Cocos has a measured history in the fact the islands were involved in both WWI and WWII.
During WWI the Royal Australian Navy saw its first victory at sea on the HMAS Sydney when they managed to sink the German ship, SMS Emden, in a surprise attack on 9 November 1914.
And in WWII Direction Island became the cable station and therefore a vital link for communication between the United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand.
Lynn Gail is a travel writer and photographer who supplies both Australian and international travel magazines with features she hopes take readers on immersive journeys. An intrepid traveller, she’s most at home sitting alongside indigenous cultures, learning age-old belief systems. With her photography, Lynn aims to capture an essence of her subjects through making a connection.
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one day i would like to holiday there please,
The ‘welcome to Paradise’ brochures handed out at Cocos (Keeling) Islands’ airport after half a day’s travel from Perth perfectly encapsulate ...
You’ve scoured the internet for an untrampled nature-based destination and happened upon Cocos (Keeling) Islands – a tropical, coconut palm-covere...
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What to know before you come
Itineraries
Sailing to Cocos
It is rare, in this day and age, to come upon a place so delightful in both looks and temperament that, on the very first sighting, one’s jaw does genuinely drop. Georgia Rickard Australian Traveller
If going with the flow is how you roll, you will love the Cocos Keeling Islands. They have a small – very small – country town vibe. Your activities revolve around the exquisite lagoon whether they be snorkelling, diving, fishing, parasailing, or just relaxing under a coconut palm reading a book while inhaling the frangipani infused air Steve Klein Curious Campers
Scuba diving at Cocos Keeling islands is nothing short of spectacular. Fabulous visibility, pristine coral reefs, abundant marine life and all the trappings of a tropical paradise without the flashy resorts. Yes, it is isolated and it takes some effort to get there, but this is more than offset by the quality of the diving, the friendly locals and the very laid back and relaxing ambience of the entire place. It is quirky, fun and a great place for a holiday. We will return and soon Phillip Tubb Melbourne
Don’t miss this place. My wife and I recently spent a fantastic week on Cocos Keeling Islands. We took the opportunity to take the twice weekly ferry service from West Island to Direction Island... we loved it so much we came back for a second time. Mike G Joondalup
Home Island is definitely quieter than West Island with religion a big part of daily life but the locals were so friendly and welcoming. It was so nice to be able to swim straight off the shore in amazing turquoise water while we cooked BBQs at sunset. Highly recommended! Pete
There's not a cloud in sight as I look out onto the brilliant blue lagoon, yet a dark shape looms above me. With its black and white plumage, deeply forked tail and enormous wingspan, the great frigatebird is magnificent to behold as she turns perfect circles in the sky.
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Richard Baxter tells me the Cocos Keeling Islands, located halfway between Australia and Sri Lanka, are a birder's paradise. As well as their rare and resident bird population, the two atolls that comprise 27 coral islets are the only place in Australia to sight species from Europe, Asia, Africa and Australia, all in the one place.
One of the country's leading bird experts and the founder of Birding Tours Australia, Baxter has been coming to Cocos (as it's more commonly known) for the past 20 years, but recently made a record-breaking discovery.
"With over 100 species found on Cocos, bird numbers have been rising for a while, but in January I came across a rare vagrant I'd been waiting years to see," Baxter says. Spotted beside the runway of Cocos's only airport, a lone northern wheatear had travelled an extraordinary distance from Eurasia to escape the northern winter. "These long-distance migrants usually stop well before getting to Cocos, so to see one this far south was an Australian first," he recalls.
Faraway flyers choosing Cocos as their balmy haven of rest include the likes of the Chinese pond heron, the Himalayan swiftlet and the Japanese sparrowhawk, and though I might not be a rare vagrant bird (at least not of the feathered variety), after spending close to a week on Cocos, I can easily see how these palm-fringed shores in the Indian Ocean might work their magnetic charm, to pull one back year after year.
It's not surprising that most Australians haven't heard of the Cocos Keeling Islands. After being discovered by Captain William Keeling in 1609, the uninhabited islands went on to become settled in 1827 by Scottish merchant John Clunies-Ross and family, with Queen Victoria granting all land to the family in 1886. Known as the "Kings of Cocos", the Clunies-Ross dynasty continued for a further five generations before Cocos was declared an Australian Territory in 1955, with all land purchased by the Australian government in 1978.
Utilised for its strategic position during the two world wars and host to a visit in 1954 from Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Cocos today is accessible to all, and while the little northern wheatear arrived via its own steam, I'm flying in on a more common creature of the skies - the Boeing 737.
It is operated by Virgin Australia, with just two flights per week on Tuesday and Friday, and Perth is the only departure point from mainland Australia, with stops via Exmouth and Christmas Island. (Expect to pay from $1165 return.)
It's technically a domestic flight and passports aren't compulsory, but we're advised to carry one in case of an international diversion - most likely to Jakarta, which is closer to the remote outpost than any part of the Australian mainland.
With only 144 visitors allowed at any one time, West Island is where most expats and holidaymakers stay, while Home Island is where the Cocos Malay people - who make up the majority of the islands' 600 or so residents - live.
Upon arrival at the airport located in West Island's town centre, immigration cards are checked and a safety briefing by police reinforces our remote reality. Apart from an explanation of how to radio for help (should we become stranded) from emergency points dotted over the islands, there's a warning about heavy fines imposed for unauthorised entry to the airport's unfenced runway - also the world's only international landing strip that doubles as part of a nine-hole golf course.
With the serious stuff out of the way it's time to slip into island mode, and as soon as I step outside the airport, I feel the first waves of familiarity. It's as if I've been transported back to the days of my childhood because just like the small country town in Western Australia's remote Pilbara region where I grew up, I discover everyone knows each other, houses and cars are left unlocked, and locals walk around barefoot. In fact, life here is so laid-back, I'm told that even the islands' only GP casually e-foils his way across the lagoon to work each day.
This blast from the past doesn't stop here. With patchy internet and no mobile phone coverage anywhere, public phone boxes are commonplace, including behind the town's only pub, Cocos Club, where the sounds of 1980s glam rock drift on the warm afternoon air.
With my accommodation just a five-minute walk away, I stroll with my suitcase down Sydney Highway (West Island's main street) and fall in step with a woman who tells me the lack of signal is what most people love about holidaying here. "Especially parents who want their children to get a sense of 'real connection'," she says.
In 1836, during his HMS Beagle voyage, Charles Darwin stopped at Cocos to develop his well-known Atoll Theory. Today, connection to nature is still Cocos's main draw, with the surrounding waters making up one of the largest protected marine sanctuaries in the world.
Our first day is spent exploring them with tour boat operator Cocosday , whose owner and skipper Dan Martain introduces us to the highlights of the Eastern Atoll. Luck is on our side as within the first few minutes of leaving shore we encounter Cocos's only known dugong, Kat. "This is amazing," Martain says. "Kat hasn't been seen around here for about 10 years so we're off to a really great start."
He isn't wrong. Manta rays are next on the list, and when we stop at the popular cleaning station in the lagoon, I can't slip on my fins fast enough to join them in the water. Suspended serenely over coral-covered bommies and gill-cleaning fish, I watch as five black star-shaped beauties twist and glide below.
Otherworldly intrigue continues at another spectacular snorkelling site - the Phaeton wreck. Moving meditatively over the backbone of the ship that sunk here in 1889 is eerie yet beautiful - evoking wonder and memories of Buddhist teachings. There's something symbiotic and touching about the reincarnation of this wreck that sits on the sandy bottom - a boat brought back to life by colourful coral blooms, soft sponge gardens and a kaleidoscope of tropical fish which have made this iron skeleton their home.
The rest of the afternoon is spent basking in the delights of Direction Island where we swim at Cossies Beach - a spot named Australia's best beach in 2017 by Tourism Australia's beach connoisseur, Brad Farmer. Exploring the island, I'm surprised to find a pondok (or shack) where passing yachties have left messages on nautical mementos, like love letters from the sea.
The next day we skip to the southern reaches of the lagoon with Cocosday, this time by motorised canoe. Captaining our own vessel is a fun way to explore crystal-clear waters and whimsical beaches while getting up close to wildlife including a giant green turtle that dives beneath our bow.
After snorkelling the gentle rip current circling Pulu Maraya, it's off to another award-winning beach for a picnic. Coming in at number five on Farmer's Best Australian Beaches list this year, the tiny oasis of Pulu Blan Madar is postcard-perfect, and as I sit with cold beer in hand, I can't imagine anywhere I'd rather be. Neither can some of the country's rarest wildlife, for along with its neighbouring island, Pulu Blan Madar is now home to the Christmas Island's blue-tailed skink - a tiny reptile that was considered extinct in the wild until a successful breeding program at Sydney's Taronga Zoo saw it recently rewilded here.
On our final day of aquatic adventures, Pete McCartney from Cocos Blue Charters takes us to what's considered to be the best snorkelling site in the atolls. On the way we run into a pod of dolphins which we attempt to swim with before coming face to face with a gang of two-metre reef sharks instead. "Don't worry, they're just like puppy dogs!" McCartney yells as we paddle enthusiastically back to the boat.
But the highlight is Direction Island's famous rip. It's hard not to get carried away with the glorious gallery of tropical treasures, as the current takes us from the shore and along the outer reef, before spitting us into the lagoon.
One of our days is spent on Home Island and alighting the ferry we are met by Cocos Malay guide Osman "Ossie" Macrae, who will introduce us to the history and culture of Australia's oldest Muslim community.
Reaching the waterfront, we take our seats and as if on cue, the morning call to prayer rings out from the kampong (village) mosque.
Originally brought to Cocos from Malaysia and Indonesia as slaves by English merchant Alexander Hare in 1826, Cocos Malays then began working in the Clunies-Ross's lucrative coconut plantations after the family ousted Hare and took control a year later. While Macrae tells us life was good under the Clunies-Ross "reign", we learn workers were paid in a currency that had no value outside of the islands - a practice that continued without intervention until as late as the 1970s.
With varying local opinions on this blurred chapter in Cocos's history, what's clear today is that this vibrant community is now in firm control of its future, with the majority of Cocos Malays voting to become fully integrated with Australia in 1984 in a UN-supervised act of self-determination.
With diverse origins and influences, we learn about the Cocos Malay people's singular identity. Practising Sunni Islam, and speaking a Bahasa Indonesian/Malay dialect, the islanders have a complex traditional naming system and, as well as also adopting anglicised names, have embraced European traditions, too, including Scottish reel dancing.
After a delicious feast of traditional dishes including chicken sambal, kerpedel (fish balls), coral trout curry and coconut pandan pancakes, we witness the island skills of community elder Watson as he shows us how to husk coconuts and weave traditional keroso (palm leaf) baskets.
"Traditionally, it was the men who made these baskets because when out fishing or collecting coconuts, they used it to pass time while waiting for the tide to come in," Macrae says.
Also behoven to the sea's schedule, while we don't have time for the sea salt and soap-making workshop usually included in Ossie's Cultural Tour , we opt for a quick lap of Home Island by electric buggy that includes a fascinating stop at Pulu Cocos Museum, before boarding our ferry back to West Island.
If you're looking for luxury, you won't find it here, but that's all part of this relaxed, authentic island experience.
With no five-star resorts on Cocos, visitor accommodation ranges from comfortable beachside bungalows - like The Breakers - to self-contained apartments and holiday homes.
The same goes for eating options. Though West Island's small supermarket stocks basic food items, a lack of fresh provisions on the islands means those with specialty dietary requirements are encouraged to bring their own.
There is however a small selection of good eateries including Salty's Bakery and Grill for the likes of takeaway stone-grilled pizza and panko-crumbed fish and chips; Surfer Girl Brewery for alfresco local brews and Australian and Asian dishes; Tropika for traditional Cocos Malay fare; and Wild Coconut Discovery Centre for handmade coconut ice-cream. Alternatively, enjoy the sunset with a beach-side grazing platter. Cocos Picnics' pop-up service comes complete with rugs, cushions, utensils and a hamper of gourmet goodies.
While almost everyone comes to Cocos for nature-based activities, if you've got a creative side, The Big Barge Art Centre is where you'll find an art gallery and shop housed inside the hull of a restored timber barge. With a studio also located here, founder and artist Emma Washer runs sustainable art workshops where participants can recycle beach debris to create artworks, then grab coffee and baked goods at on-site cafe, Sula Sula Servery.
Lastly, though a local bus service will take you to and from the ferry terminal, if you want to explore the best beaches and attractions on West Island, car hire shouldn't be overlooked. Book in advance with Happy Jacks or Cocos Autos .
Explore more: cocoskeelingislands.com.au
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The writer was a guest of Cocos Keeling Islands Tourism Association.
Pictures: Rik Soderlund; Rachel Claire; Bonita Grima; Cocos Keeling Tourism.
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Cocos Keeling Islands - Homepage Video from Melody Brass on Vimeo. Immerse in a tropical oasis of coconut palms, endless white-sand beaches and azure waters. Experience one of the world's largest marine parks teeming with wildlife, discover the unique Cocos Malay culture and historical dramas, and join the friendly locals on island time. A ...
The Cocos (Keeling) Islands, or simply "Cocos" to locals, are 27 breathtaking islands in an almost perfect circle - only two of which are inhabited. Snorkel, boat, fish, kite surf or dive in the warm, crystal-clear lagoon which forms one of the largest marine sanctuaries in the world. Discover the unique Cocos Malay culture or simply ...
WELCOME To The Cocos Keeling Islands. Cocos Keeling Islands. Australia's last unspoilt paradise lies in the azure waters of the Indian Ocean, kissed by the sun and caressed by fragrant trade winds. Read More.
Contact the Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association for further details. Telecommunications. Four television stations are broadcast from Western Australia via satellite. These are ABC, SBS, WIN and GWN. A local radio station, 6CKI—Voice of the Cocos (Keeling) Islands, is staffed by community volunteers and provides some local content.
Of the 27 islands, just two are inhabited - West Island and Home Island. The rest are waiting to be explored. The Cocos Keeling Islands have a total population of 600 people, including around 450 Cocos Malay. Covering a 10 km stretch end-to-end, West Island is best explored by car. Or if you're game, by bike.
Situated 2750 kilometres northwest of Perth, Western Australia, the Cocos Keeling Islands (Cocos) are a group of coral islands that form two atolls. Only two of the 27 islands are inhabited - the rest are waiting for you to explore them. A tropical oasis, a holiday on Cocos offers an undeveloped, relaxed getaway with balmy temperatures year ...
Location. Cocos Keeling Islands Visitor Centre, Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Western Australia, 6799. Telephone. +61 8 9162 6790. The Cocos Keeling Islands Visitor Centre is a one stop shop of information provided by local experts. The friendly staff have the most up-to-date and comprehensive information about what to do on Cocos.
Cocos Keeling Islands Visitor Centre, West Island Cocos Is. 85,856 likes · 469 talking about this · 641 were here. Welcome to the official account of Cocos Keeling Islands 呂
The ideal time to visit Christmas Island and the Cocos (Keeling) Islands is during the south-east wind season between April and November. This coincides with the annual red crab migration on Christmas Island (October to November) and the Hari Raya Puasa (end of Ramadan) cultural celebration on Home Island in the Cocos (Keeling) islands.
The purpose of Christmas Island Tourism is to: 1. Promote and market Christmas Island and Australia's Indian Ocean Islands as world-class natural and cultural tourism destinations. 2. Provide high quality information and services for visitors. 3. Represent and facilitate the tourism industry on Christmas Island. 4.
Dates vary from year to year. Please check with the Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association before booking for events. Visitors to the island are also welcome to participate in the School Fete, Sports Carnival and concert events. Cocos Diving, ☏ +61 8 9162 6515, [email protected]. $200-2320. edit.
The main spoken languages on Cocos (Keeling) Islands are Cocos Malay and English. How many people live on Cocos (Keeling) Islands? According to the 2021 Census, about 600 people inhabit the Cocos (Keeling) Islands. Julia D'Orazio was a guest of the Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association.
The Cocos (Keeling) Islands (Cocos Islands Malay: Pulu Kokos [Keeling]), officially the Territory of Cocos (Keeling) Islands (/ ˈ k oʊ k ə s /; [5] [6] Cocos Islands Malay: Pulu Kokos [Keeling]), are an Australian external territory in the Indian Ocean, comprising a small archipelago approximately midway between Australia and Sri Lanka and relatively close to the Indonesian island of Sumatra.
1. Scuba & Snorkelling • Taxis & Shuttles. Water based tours of the tropical playground that is the Cocos Keeling Islands atoll. Join us on our shallow water explorer "Hermit" for a tour of the Cocos Keeling Islands atoll that you will never…. 12. Island Explorer Holidays Australia.
There are no snakes, no dangerous spiders. The island has a 30-50 kph speed limit and the roads are shared by everyone - walkers, bikes, scooters and vehicles. There are plenty of picturesque spots for all swimming levels to take a dip but please be extremely mindful of water safety. There is no coastguard here.
The Cocos (Keeling) Islands could be Australia's best-kept secret. Article and all photos by Rachel Claire AKA @fieldnotes__. Located approximately 2,750 kilometres northwest of Perth, The Cocos (Keeling) Islands are a stunning archipelago made up of 27 coral islands that form two atolls. This remote region of Australia is full of dramatic ...
Don your snorkel, pack your beach bag, and add a good read - tranquillity is just the throw of a sand-ball away. Enjoy true solitude on your Cocos (Keeling) island holiday. (Image: Lynn Gail) 2. There's history to Home Island's call to prayer. Catch the local ferry - Cahaya Baru - from West to Home Island.
Follow Cocos Keeling Islands on Facebook (+61 8) 9162 6790 [email protected] Cocos Keeling Islands Visitor Centre PO Box 1030, Cocos Keeling Islands, Indian Ocean WA, Australia 6799
ing) Islands truly are an Australian Paradise. This plan - Our Cocos (Keeling) Islands, rategic Plan 2030 - is our Community's plan. It provides a road map to maximise community well-being in line with developing a prosperous, sustainable and diverse fu. ure for all within the Cocos (Keeling) Islands. The Plan has been led by the Indian Ocean ...
It's not surprising that most Australians haven't heard of the Cocos Keeling Islands. After being discovered by Captain William Keeling in 1609, the uninhabited islands went on to become settled in 1827 by Scottish merchant John Clunies-Ross and family, with Queen Victoria granting all land to the family in 1886.
Rebecca Foreman 27 June 2024 • 11:00am. Home to only around 600 people, the Cocos (Keeling) Islands sit in the middle of the Indian Ocean, between Australia and Sri Lanka. Children waved eagerly ...
The Cocos Keeling Islands are located 900 km from Christmas Island. With just 144 visitors at any one time, you're more likely to see a turtle in the lagoon than another pair of fins. It's a simple, laid-back way of life on Cocos. A place where time seems to slow down with idyllic natural surrounds and friendly locals who love to host.
Ruaridh Nicoll was a guest of Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association (cocoskeelingislands.com.au) and Tourism Australia (australia.com). Double rooms at Waves Waterfront cost from A$345 ...