c107c dodge journey

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Codes C107c & P0571, Bas/esp And Traction Control Lights On...

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I don't know if these are all related but I'm hoping someone can help me out. Here is what I know: P0571 is Cruise Control/Brake Switch - Circuit A - Malfunction - Stored C107C is Brake Pedal Switch - 1/2 Stuck - Stored Here is what I have done recently, and since receiving codes: Recently changed passenger side wheel hub and accompanying speed sensor (I was getting intermittent codes before, and also after replacement) I just changed the brake switch yesterday; I disconnected the battery prior to doing so, and when replaced and reconnected battery, the BAS/ESP lights as well as the traction control lights came back on immediately. After driving around for a while the lights went off, only to pop back on again as they have been doing. Also, one of my brake lights had not been working when braking, but all hazards, running lights and turn signals were working. Since replacing the brake switch, neither side brake light or turn signal is working, although the third (top center) brake light does work. My questions are: Could this have anything to do with the cruise control stalk? (I remember reading a similar post a while ago and there may have been something loose that was causing problems, but I can no longer find the post) Did I do something wrong installing the brake switch? Could I possibly have bad enough luck that I have received two defective wheel hubs on the same wheel within 6 months? and if so, could the problem with the brake lights, codes and warning lights all be related to this?  

Update: I just reset the battery again, for a full half hour this time. I am only receiving the brake switch code, but the dash lights are still on. Hazards work, left and right turn signals work, and top center brake light works. Still nothing from the driver's and passenger side brake lights. I really need to figure this out, as I am also supposed to install a brake controller and 7 pin trailer adapter today so I can take our camper into the shop for repair since we no longer have the other truck.  

Just guessing, have you checked all your fuses. Also is it possible you don't have the brake switch pluged in all the way .  

I have checked the fuses, can't find anything blown there. I also double checked the connection and it does seem solid (and locked).  

The third brake light is on its own circuit, that is why it is working. When you installed the brake switch did it at any time pop all the way out? If so, you will need a new one. The switch when first installed will set an internal cam to the position of the pedal arm. This then sets the travel to the switches "on" position. Without the proper "on"/"off" signal from the brake switch the cruise will not work.  

Ok, so it looks like I may need another brake switch then. It didn't snap right into place, and popped out (before I had flipped the red switch on the side, which is what I thought would lock in the setting) and I had to push it back in and almost had to force the piece into place. I have another question, since I'm installing a brake controller and 7pin adapter as well. I have read about the red wire that is supposed to be behind the kick panel, but is either missing, has already been used (I have an aftermarket Viper remote start/alarm system), or its been wrapped up with all of the other wires in here. Can I tap right into the brake switch wires, or is there another easy way of connecting somewhere? If I can tap into the brake switch wires, what wire is the right one? Many thanks!  

Or possibly the wire controlling the third, top/center brake light? Just picked up another brake switch, hopefully this one works out better than the last..  

I found this on one of the Jeep Forums. If this is correct, it looks like I could hook up to the wire connecting to the #6 pin? Am I reading that correctly?  

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See this thread post 16 Pic 2 for the location of the trailer brake wire which goes to the OEM 7-way plug. It may not be there if you do not have the factory tow package. More info here , and here . You may need to probe the brake switch wires to find the one that powers up when the brake is depressed.  

Hi BOKEH, i know lots about the wiring on the Nitro, But i don't know much about the US towing and braking setup, however i am sure you should NOT be connecting anything to the actual wiring of the brake switch, the contacts within the brake switch only send signals, the TIPM sends the power to the lights. unless it's just a signal wire you are looking for.  

Nitro pin outs for the brake switch: 1 DG/WT BRAKE SIGNAL 1 2 BK/DB GROUND 3 LB/DG BRAKE SIGNAL 2 4 PK/LG IGNITION RUN/START CONTROL OUTPUT 5 LG/RD FUSED B(+) 6 WT/DG BRAKE LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT For use only as a signal wire for the controller.  

Nitrogen said: my wiring diagram has Nitro 08: pin 1: lgn/rd = fuse M1 pin 2: wht/dk gn = brake signal out TIPM (brake lights and high level brake light). pin 3: pnk/lt gn = fuse M15 pin 4: lt bl/dk gn = brake signal 2 PCM. pin 5: blk/bk blu = ground pin 6: dk gn/ wht = brake signal 1 PCM. Click to expand...

the brake switch diagram from the jeep forum is NOT the same as the Nitro.  

ScarO thats not what my wiring diagram says.  

my wiring diagram has Nitro 08: pin 1: lgn/rd = fuse M1 pin 2: wht/dk gn = brake signal out TIPM (brake lights and high level brake light). pin 3: pnk/lt gn = fuse M15 pin 4: lt bl/dk gn = brake signal 2 PCM. pin 5: blk/bk blu = ground pin 6: dk gn/ wht = brake signal 1 PCM.  

Well I'm glad I don't have figure that all out . You guys have my head spinning just reading the posts. Smh  

OK so here's an update. I replaced the brake light switch and everything seems to be working. It looks as if it the 6th pin in each of the diagrams (if I'm reading them correctly) is the brake switch output, which I am planning on using as the signal wire for the brake controller (power for the brake controller and 7 pin receiver comes directly from the battery). Hopefully this works; wish me luck. I'll post an update when I have tested it out.  

I believe your right . All three are signal on pin 6 & pin 4. Not sure what you mean pin 7 ? Unless you mean controller pins .  

Scaro seems to have changed his diagrams ( unless i was half asleep last night). i think pin 2 is what you are looking for.  

I did not change the pin outs from my post 11. I added the others I found in my manuals in post 15. Pin 6 I believe is a CAN BUS signal wire which goes to the PCM and should not be used(5 volt output). Pin 2 I believe is the correct wire as Nitrogen posted earlier. Best way to test it is with a volt meter, but you can test it with a probe and a light. When you test pin 2 it should be brighter then pin 6, or if you use a volt meter you will see the difference. This is of course all guess work and from reading the diagrams I have... I have not actually tested it on my rig. It is pouring outside so I'm not going to test it right now. LOL BOKEH, I would remove the tap you have on pin 6 and see if the 3rd brake light comes back on.  

Daran if he's looking for brake signal for the trailer lights controller wouldn't it be the signal out pin not the brake lamp output? I've never worked one out for a trailer lights controller. I only ever wired a trailer female plug for a trailer. Is it the same ?  

I believe the controller has to do with the trailer brakes if I'm not wrong ?  

i have tried to make this simple. internaly the brake switch are 3 switches ( 6 wires 2 per switch ) switch 1: pins 1 and 2 is N/O ( normaly open ) contacts close when brake pedal is pressed (makes contact) send signal switches 2 and 3 are N/C (normaly closed) contacts open when pedal is pressed (brakes contact) cuts signal. HOWEVER this may not be the same on all year models as my diagram for a 2010 Nitro is different.  

Here's the current update: some good, some not so good... I tapped into the wire connecting to PIN#6 from the brake light switch; that does work, and I was able to move my camper to the repair shop. The brakes worked, I was able to adjust the brake pressure from the controller, but no lights to the camper, at all... New issue: 3rd brake light no longer works, although the running lights, turn signals, and hazards continue to operate (on the Nitro) as they should. New code: C1078 - Tire revolutions - Range / Performance - Stored ( I am also still receiving the C107C and P0571 codes ) This made me think it may have something to do with one of the speed sensors (as I did replace one with the new wheel hub I recently replaced). I pulled the sensor wires apart and it seemed like there was water inside (although it may have just been dielectric grease from when I changed the hub). I used a pipe cleaner to clean out the connection and tried to remove any water from the connection points, as best I could. I then reconnected them and used electrical tape to cover them in an attempt to prevent water from getting in there again (if in case, it was water I was seeing). I have had the battery disconnected since I pulled the codes (before disconnecting speed sensor) which should clear the codes, at least until I start driving again... Any ideas as to why I now have also lost the top/center 3rd brake light? Does the new code mean I've been looking in the wrong place? ps- I have pulled / checked every single fuse I could find, again, and all seems to be good there.  

Nitrogen, now that makes more sence. Anyway, now Boken are you sure that pin #6 isn't for the third brake light . Maybe there is a fault with continuity now that you taped into that pin.  

I disconnected the splice I made at PIN#6 and just like that, 3rd brake light flickered then came back on. I then tapped into PIN#2, out goes the 3rd light... looks like I need a volt meter. I pulled the bulbs again, just to be sure and I'm glad I did; both drivers' and passenger's side brake bulbs were bad. I replaced them, and the other 4 with new bulbs (#3057) since a couple of the others were on their way out (but I held on to them for emergency). Either way, I am still getting the ESP/BAS light and the traction control light. I've noticed with the traction control light though, I am able to get rid of it by pressing the traction control "off" button twice (cycling it off, and then on again). When I do this, the ESP/BAS remains and the traction control light stays off until I come to a sharp or sudden turn, then it comes back on and stays on. And, still getting C107C and P0571 codes.  

At this point I would tap the brake light wire at the rear of the rig and run a wire up to the controller. When you added the trailer harness, it is possible something shorted out when you connect to the trailer and popped the brake light bulbs. I'd double check the harness and wires on both the Nitro and trailer. 7 way trailer wiring colors, Nitro Plug side, looking into the plug under the cover. ...... Running lights . / ........... \ Pos (+) Left turn & brake | .... ( ) ..... | Right turn and brake .............. Neg (-) \ ............ / Trailer brakes .................... Backup ↑↑ Light The wire Colors are as above, except the Neg is white. For the other codes, you can try replacing the speed sensor, or just pay a dealer a few bucks to run a Diag.  

That's how I have the 7 pin wired up; I won't be able to check it with the trailer until I pick it up next week. At least I have brake lights again. Tomorrow I will disconnect the line to PIN#2 and run another line back to the rear brakes. Will a dealer diagnostics pull up more info than I'm able to get on a scanner?  

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Dodge DTC C107C

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2010 Dodge Journey SXT ESP/BAS light and Traction Control Light on

By Patrick J. Thompson February 28, 2016 in Electrical, Battery & Charging

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Patrick j. thompson.

I was wondering what the likely causes would be for my ESP/BAS and Traction Control Lights being on and my lower brake lights being on constantly?

Because of these issues my Cruise Control has been disabled

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Past posts would indicate a speed sensor (transmission/wheel) has failed regarding cruise control,

the brake light could be a indicator of a bad brake switch assy and again your right this could be

a player in the cruise problem.

I never even thought of the speed sensor but I also discovered yesterday that my reverse lights are also not working even after changing the bulbs and checking the fuses

Cruise control will not work if all 4 wheel sensors are not working.

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2010 Dodge Journey Owner Comments

Nov 11 2022

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Hope my comment today gives others insight to their problem and I will update when we make more progress or " its' time for her vehicle to go to" that great junkyard in the sky"

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FCA has multiple recalls on TIPMs and WIN modules. Yet mine isn't one of them! Really?!!

- Anthony L. , Bluffton, US

Jun 30 2017

• 122,000 miles

Bought this vehicle used, everything was fine for about 2 weeks. One day I unplugged my phone charger and the radio/gps froze on. Turned the car off and radio/ gps/ uconnect still on. Finally had to pull the fuse, put the fuse back in and everything was fine. The car alarm would go off intermittently, then the battery would die. Replaced battery with a brand new one. Couple days later battery dead. Took it to the dodge dealer and paid for a computer update, which stopped the alarm from going off all the time. They also pulled up a code of B1A79 that has to do with antenna wireless remote ignition module. But there were no recommendation for fixing it apparently. Unfortunately about once a week I have to jump it due to dead battery. This morning had to jump it, started right up but the radio/gps/ uconnect wouldn't turn on . Drove it to work and after couple of hours started it up and radio/gps/ uconnect worked. Called the dealership and now they want $100 per hour to hook it to a voltage meter and battery tester and it could take 3 or more hours.

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I had problem with my Dodge Journey from the first couple of months I got it. First problem was with the radio. I was not sure what the problem was but when I got to the U.S. I had it change out. One day on a drive my window just open on they our. I thought nothing of it until few month later it happen again. This time I had to turn the car off and back on the close the window. After dealing with a possible electrical problem, 4 years later I had to replace the radiator. Who replaces a radiator after 4 years of owning a new car? I'm still having problem with this car and I don't know who to turn to with the problem. Now there is something draining my battery. I've changed the battery 4 time already ever other day If I don't start the car the battery is dead. I'm done with dodge, it was a beautiful car when I brought it, but if I thought I was going to have this much problem with this car I would have went with the Volvo XC90.

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- Joseph J. , Perth Amboy, NJ, US

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Brake Pedal swithch 1/2 Stuck Code Error

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So this morning I'm driving into work and all of a sudden I notice that my cruise control is not working. Next think I know my WK is beeping at me, the traction contol light is on and I get the messege, "Service Electric Brake System." When I got to work I pulled out my super chips programer and hooked it up and I got the code P107P, "Brake Pedal swithch 1/2 Stuck." Has anyone had this problem before, and if so how do I fix it? Thanks for the help  

I think this is your code as the 05 service manual doesn't list exactly what you have . C107D-BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH 1/2 CORRELATION ? ² When Monitored: With the ignition on. ² Set Condition: When the Anti-Lock Brake Module detects an implausible signal from the Stop Lamp Switch. Possible Causes TERMINAL/CONNECTOR/WIRING HARNESS DAMAGE STOP LAMP SWITCH (B15) BRAKE SWITCH NO. 1 SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE Diagnostic Test 1. CHECK FOR A DTC C107D-BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH 1/2 CORRELATION NOTE: This DTC must be active for the results of this test to be valid. Turn the ignition on. With the scan tool, read and record DTC’s. With the scan tool, read and record Freeze Fame information. With the scan tool, erase DTC’s. Cycle the ignition switch from off to on. With the scan tool, read and record DTC’s. Does the scan tool display: C107D-BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH 1/2 CORRELATION?  

Hey YZJWK, I will go check the error code number again tonight. I thought it was C107C. Thank you very much for looking that up for me. After turning the car off and on again it seems to be fine today, but it is something I'd like to fix so it doesn't happen again.  

Check engine light came on tonight. Pulled above mentioned code (c107c) along with P0572 and U1408. A couple weeks ago I got the ESP/BAS Traction Control lights. My research suggests I have a speed sensor with one foot in the bucket. I have the speed sensor but have not yet had time to swap the faulty out with the new (front right?). Question is could all of these codes be related to the failing sensor? I've read that the C107c can be sometimes be caused by a blown fuse. I'd like to personally fix as much as a semi-mechanically inclined individual can before taking her into the stealership. Any input would be greatly appreciated!  

Ancient Bump If anyone with this issue is still kickin it I'd love to know a fix. I have C107C and 'SERVICE ELEC BRAKE SYSTEM' displayed. Comes and goes but comes more than it goes... No other codes.. Roads full of snow here...  

U ever figure this one out ??  

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Hello friends, my name is Julio and I greet you from Chile, I have a Durango 2009 5.7, it is wonderful but it has a small detail. It has the ABS, ESP BAS lights on, the scanner gives the code C107C (brake pedal 1/2 stuck) I changed the switch that goes on the brake pedal but it remains the same. Then change the ABS pump and the problem continues. Any ideas? I'd appreciate your help. Cheers July  

Greetings Julio: Congrats on owning the last model year of the Gen 2 Durango. Do the brakes seem to operate properly otherwise? Have you taken a look at the master cylinder, to assess if there is indeed an issue there? Don  

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Ok on the recent scan for trouble codes. Since you have done these two things, have you done a battery reset to see if the code will clear? Does it seem like the brakes are dragging when you drive it? I have to think there would be a driveability issue if the pedal were really depressed half way. Don  

I have left the battery disconnected all night and nothing, I erase the code with Scanner and it appears immediately. The brakes work fine but not 100%. The other thing I can see is that the status of the brake pressure sensor is always pressed.  

Julio: Have you tried gently lifting the brake pedal upward, to see if it really is hanging up? My thought here, is that the switch you have replaced on the pedal lever, is for the brake lights. I wonder if there might be another sensor, internal or external to the master cylinder, that is giving a false reading? Have you bled the brakes, or done any recent maintenance on the master cylinder? Don  

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C107C-Brake pedal switch 1/2 stuck

• Brake Lamp Switch Circuit : A normally open brake lamp switch circuit receives a battery voltage input, and supplies this battery voltage to the lamps and the Antilock Brake System (ABS) Module on a brake lamp switch output circuit only when the brake pedal is depressed (brake lamp switch plunger released).
• Brake Lamp Switch Signal Circuit : A normally closed brake lamp switch signal circuit receives a direct path to ground, and supplies this ground input to the Powertraint Control Module (PCM) on a brake lamp switch sense circuit only when the brake pedal is released (brake lamp switch plunger is depressed).
• Speed Control Circuit : A normally closed speed control circuit receives a battery voltage input from the PCM on an ignition run/start control output circuit, and supplies this battery voltage to the PCM on a brake signal 2 circuit only when the brake pedal is released (brake lamp switch plunger is depressed).

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Smoke from Russian fires blankets Moscow

By Peikko August 6, 2010 in Off Topic

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Emergency officials said they were beginning to tame the fires which have spread across western and central Russia , but the capital woke to its worst bout of pollution yet after smog that dispersed yesterday returned with a vengeance.

Famous landmarks like the Ostankino television tower and St Basil's cathedral were reduced to outlines and the sun was a pale yellow orb. Visibility was down to 50 metres in some areas as coils of pungent smoke threaded into apartment buildings, offices and metro stations. Dozens of flights were cancelled at Domodedovo and Vnukovo airports in the south of the city.

Doctors advised Muscovites to stay home as the Department of Nature Protection and Environmental Management warned that carbon monoxide in the air was at five times acceptable levels.

Many of those who did venture out wore masks or clutched handkerchiefs to their faces. "It's unbearable, God knows what it's doing to our health," said Yulia Novikova, 25, who was hurrying home with groceries in Frunzenskaya district near the Moscow river. "I was just reading about the Great Smog of London in 1952. This looks a lot worse."

Vladimir Stepanov of the National Crisis Management Centre said fires were abating in the Urals and in the Volga region, but the situation remained tense around Moscow and Nizhny Novgorod. "Firefighters and rescuers did not let the fires approach populated areas," he said. "Not a single person has died over the past 24 hours."

The wildfires have so far claimed 50 lives and left more than 3,000 people homeless, prompting criticism of the official response to the crisis.

Earlier this week the prime minister, Vladimir Putin, promised he would personally monitor the reconstruction of destroyed homes via video images beamed to his home. State television showed the cameras being installed at building sites today.

Government officials said they could not have anticipated the heatwave that provoked the fires, the hottest in 140 years. The temperature in Moscow was above 36C all week. But critics have blamed complacent officials for ignoring warnings of blazes near villages.

United Russia, the pro-Kremlin party which dominates parliament, has boasted of sending volunteers to help extinguish the fires. But that claim was thrown into doubt yesterday when the party was accused of doctoring a photograph placed on its website.

A sharp-eyed blogger noticed that the picture showing volunteers apparently wrestling with a piece of timber in a smoky wood had been created in 2008 and altered in Photoshop last Saturday. The smoke, he claimed, had been added for effect.

United Russia immediately removed the picture but did not respond to requests for comment.

Refusing to use the spellchick!

I have put you on ignore. No really, I have, but you are still ruining my enjoyment of this site. .

Ban Hammer   13,031

the title had me confused, i thought smoke was from oklahoma.

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When I visited my inlaws in the Chita region of Siberia in summer 2009 there were numerous forest fires raging there. They told me it was an annual event and that the magnitude depended on how wet the summer was. We drove down roads on the way to my wife's home village with flames burning along both sides of the road. Kind of spooky. Not to mention the irritation to the respiratory system. Some days the wind blew the smoke away from us and other days the haze was unbearable.

"Credibility in immigration policy can be summed up in one sentence: Those who should get in, get in; those who should be kept out, are kept out; and those who should not be here will be required to leave."

"...for the system to be credible, people actually have to be deported at the end of the process."

US Congresswoman Barbara Jordan (D-TX)

Testimony to the House Immigration Subcommittee, February 24, 1995

They told me it was an annual event and that the magnitude depended on how wet the summer was.

"It is natural process."

The amount of sh!t Russians (and FSU) will put up with is amazing to me.

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