2010 dodge journey parasitic draw

Dodge Journey Battery Draining:  Causes + Diagnosis

If your Dodge Journey’s battery is draining, it’s something that’ll need addressing right away.  If it is draining while your Journey isn’t running, something is drawing current that shouldn’t be.

If the battery drains while driving, there’s likely an issue with your vehicle’s alternator.

The two primary causes for a battery to deplete are parasitic power loss or a faulty battery.

Dodge Journey:  Battery Draining While Parked Causes

If your vehicle is running fine when you park it, and it won’t start, there is an issue with the charging system (alternator, battery, or battery cables) or a parasitic power draw. 

Parasitic Power Draw

A parasitic power draw is when something is drawing current from your Dodge Journey’s battery after you turn the vehicle off, like an interior light or a malfunctioning component.  

To fix this issue, you’ll need to test for a parasitic power draw.  Here’s how:

Remove the negative cable from your Journey’s battery and use a multimeter to measure the draw. The draw should be less than 25 milliamps (0.025 amps) . If it’s higher than that, then something is drawing current, and it must be addressed.

Before connecting a multimeter to the battery, verify that the dome light is shutting off when you close the doors.  A faulty door switch (that turns the dome light on and off) frequently causes a parasitic power drain .  

Other causes include a trunk/tailgate release switch that is always on, a headlight switch stuck in the “on” position, aftermarket accessories such as an alarm system or CD changer, damaged wiring harnesses, and faulty relays.

Battery Cables

Examine your Journey’s battery posts where they attach to the battery. If significant corrosion is present, use a wire brush to clean it. Corrosion can impede proper battery connection, leading to drainage issues.

There are specific battery post cleaners that you can buy.  They are usually less than 10 bucks at the local parts store or Wal-Mart. Otherwise, sandpaper can work if you’re in a pinch, just make sure to wear gloves. 

Bad Battery

When the battery depletes while parked, it’s likely due to the battery itself. If your Journey’s battery light illuminates while driving before parking, the alternator is probably responsible for the battery drainage (or in this case, not recharging).

If you didn’t see a battery light, and now your vehicle is dead when you start it, the first thing you need to look at is the battery.

A good anecdotal way to tell if there is a parasitic drain and not a bad battery is to unplug the negative battery cable when you park your vehicle for the period it usually takes for the battery to drain.  

If it fires right back up when you hook the battery up, you need to be looking for a parasitic battery drain.

You can take it up to the local parts store and have your Journey’s battery tested.  They’ll need to charge it for a while, so plan on dropping it off and returning a few hours later.  

If it passes the test, it’s time to move on to the alternator.

If the parasitic power draw isn’t the issue, and the battery, checks out, it’s time to test the alternator. You can do this at home with a voltmeter.

Testing at Home

Set the meter to measure AC volts and connect one of its leads to the positive side of the battery, then start your Journey. Connect the other lead to ground near the alternator. 

The voltage should be above 13.5-14 volts when your Journey’s running ; if it isn’t, you may need a new alternator.  Switch the air conditioner to max A/C and turn on the headlights, then check that the voltage remains steady. The alternator should adjust nearly instantly.

Parts Store

Most parts stores can test an alternator for you to ensure it’s charging properly. However, they use a machine in store, so you’ll need to pull the alternator, which is why we suggest testing it with a voltmeter first.

Likely, the alternator didn’t sufficiently charge your Journey’s battery while the vehicle was in operation, resulting in a depleted battery.  

Parts stores don’t charge anything for this service, they just want to sell you an alternator if you need it.

Battery Draining While Driving:  Dodge Journey

If your battery is draining while driving, it is almost without exception the Journey’s alternator that is causing the problem.  If it is you should see the battery or alternator light on, it indicates that the alternator is not creating the necessary voltage to charge the battery.

It could be a bad battery, or more likely a bad battery cable too.  But it’s not very likely.  If you hear a whining noise accompanied by the battery light, it’s almost guaranteed that it’s the alternator that is at fault.

If your Journey’s battery is draining after being parked for a few days, here’s a solid order to diagnose the problem:

• The battery itself has gone bad and just can’t hold a charge long enough to be of any use after the vehicle sits and it drains.
• If unexpected power consumption occurs, begin by inspecting all lights. Check if the glove compartment light in your Journey turns off or if any map lights remain on. Examine accessory plugs for any connected devices drawing power, and look for aftermarket accessories. If none is found, an electrical issue could be the cause.
• Inspect the battery cables for corrosion.  Clean if necessary.
• Use a multimeter to verify that there is no power draw.  If there is, track down the power drawing accessory or short circuit.
• Test the battery (replace your battery if necessary).
• Test the alternator.

  Conclusion:  Journey’s Battery Draining

Good luck running down what is causing your battery to drain in your Dodge Journey.  If there is anything you would like to add, please leave a comment below.

• Remember me Not recommended on shared computers

Forgot your password?

• Electrical, Battery & Charging

Intermittent battery drain

By Wilsonk uk August 4, 2020 in Electrical, Battery & Charging

• Reply to this topic
• Start new topic

Recommended Posts

Hi, I've had a 2010 DJ from new, regularly serviced only done 88k miles. About 18 months ago began to get starting problems so changed out battery. Problems did not go away. Car would drain rapidly ie overnight and be utterly dead. No dash lights or anything. Jump start it and it would be fine for a couple of weeks then die again. Tried to get battery replaced under warranty but they refused saying battery tested fine and car was underused.

was convinced it was a battery issue so replaced again and guess what- no joy. My mechanic is baffled. He is wondering if our house alarm is somehow interfering with the car- he has seen this before. We did get an alarm around the time this all kicked off but it has died away from the house. Was driving  around one day. Stopped to put gas in. Got back in car, completely dead. It's like some stole the battery! I miss my big dodge, nothing like it in uk. Please can anyone offer ideas?

Link to comment

Share on other sites.

some have said the bluetooth module can cause a battery drain, check the forum out a lot of info there on thoes that have had a problem like yours,good luck

• OhareFred and jkeaton

John/Horace

Welcome to forum. You need to confirm a few things. Parasitic load needs to be measured when car is not running.

Remove positive terminal under hood, set meter to milliamperes and see how much is drawing after watching meter for around 2 minutes and ecm has gone to sleep mode. Should be around 100 to 175 milliamps.

Switch meter back to dc volts and measure power at battery with car running, should be around 14 to 14.5 volts.

Then turn on most accessories,  voltage should stay above 13 volts if alternator is decent.

• jkeaton and OhareFred

On ‎8‎/‎4‎/‎2020 at 6:13 PM, Wilsonk uk said: Hi, I've had a 2010 DJ from new, regularly serviced only done 88k miles. About 18 months ago began to get starting problems so changed out battery. Problems did not go away. Car would drain rapidly ie overnight and be utterly dead. No dash lights or anything. Jump start it and it would be fine for a couple of weeks then die again. Tried to get battery replaced under warranty but they refused saying battery tested fine and car was underused. was convinced it was a battery issue so replaced again and guess what- no joy. My mechanic is baffled. He is wondering if our house alarm is somehow interfering with the car- he has seen this before. We did get an alarm around the time this all kicked off but it has died away from the house. Was driving  around one day. Stopped to put gas in. Got back in car, completely dead. It's like some stole the battery! I miss my big dodge, nothing like it in uk. Please can anyone offer ideas?

Had a similar issue and mine appears to be tied to the Bluetooth Module.  My timeline was along these lines...

Fall 2017: Bluetooth U-Connect Stopped Working

March 2018: Slow turn but car started, check engine light comes on.  Battery was new so it was determined alternator was fried (70K Miles)

April 2018: Car dead.  Jumped started and check engine light goes back to battery again.  At this point it became a guessing game.  They replaced the battery under warranty.

May 2018: Didn't use car for 2 days and was completely dead.  Charged battery, took to garage for a week, and nothing was found.  Bluetooth fuse (found in manual) was removed.

Mid-July 2018: Took vehicle to a Dodge dealership for a quote on the Bluetooth, they reinserted a fuse, and UConnect briefly worked.  However UConnect was not working by the time I got home and they quoted me $650 to replace BT module.  I passed but left the fuse in. 

Late-July 2018: Vehicle was cranking slow again.  At this point I was strongly feeling the BT module was the issue, so I removed the fuse.

As of today (2 years later) I have not had a dead battery and really no issues at all other than maybe 1-2x the radio clock reset overnight. 

Based on everything above it seems like the issue is tied to a bad Bluetooth module or at the very least the radio.  I did buy a new Bluetooth Module a year or so back, but I have yet to install it.  Part of it is b/c I'm afraid the car will stop starting again, but it is also in a really rough spot.  I just didn't want to drop $600 to fix at dealership (I got the module for $225).  Good luck, it is a super frustrating issues especially since the Journey (ours is 2012 Crew) is a pretty nice vehicle that we like. 

Thank you all for your replies. Lots to go on there - very useful. Natefrog2 that fuse sounds particularly compelling given your experience versus mine. Can you recall was it fuse number 10?

• 2 months later...

On ‎8‎/‎6‎/‎2020 at 11:26 AM, Wilsonk uk said: Thank you all for your replies. Lots to go on there - very useful. Natefrog2 that fuse sounds particularly compelling given your experience versus mine. Can you recall was it fuse number 10?  

 Yes, it had a 10 on it which I think means 10 amp.  It was like the 3rd one down from the middle of the fuse box on the passenger/glove box area.

I actually finally replaced the Bluetooth module yesterday, what a b**** to get to.  I saved $350-400 doing it but it took a long time as 1 of the 2 screws was a pain point to reach even after taking out brake pedal and panel under steering wheel.  But I eventually got to it, replaced it, put my fuse back in, and my U-Connect is now working again.  Now the only hurdle is hopefully I don't start having battery drain issues again.  I'm hopeful the drain was related to the module that went bad and I replaced. 

• 2 weeks later...

So far, so good.  Week and a half in and HFM still working, car has been starting, etc.  The longest time between car starts was about 60+ hours so that is positive.  Fingers crossed, haha.  

• 2late4u , Armando G and OhareFred

1 hour ago, natefrog2 said: So far, so good.  Week and a half in and HFM still working, car has been starting, etc.  The longest time between car starts was about 60+ hours so that is positive.  Fingers crossed, haha.  

thanks for replying back on the condition

Crazy Canuck

My daughter has a 2010 Dodge Journey SXT and I live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. We get some really cold nights in January and I have been getting up early before I go to work because my daughter phones me every second morning asking me to come over to her place to boost her vehicle. So I traded her vehicles and I have been checking for a parasitic drain on her battery for the last 2 weeks without any luck until this morning at 5:30 AM to help my wife get ready for work. I went to the front door to remote start my wife's car and noticed the brake lights were activated on the 2010 Dodge Journey SXT so I went outside and yes the battery was dead again. I checked a few websites and this is a known problem with Journeys and the brake switch staying on after turning it off. I would never have noticed it if I would not have gotten up at 5:30 AM with my wife. Thank you honey! Now replacing my brake light switch. I will let you know if that solves it but I am 99.9% sure that is the issue.

• 2late4u , OhareFred and larryl

Yes a ten cent part made of plastic in the freezing cold what could go wrong???

Glad you found it

Daughters and car maintenance ; very familiar story. Are you using 5w20 synthetic and a block heater, also helpful.

I have family in Calgary, extreme winters for vehicles. But no salt is nice; kills our Ontario cars.

The biggest parasitic drain issue in the journeys appears to be blue tooth modules that stay on. Fuse gets pulled and module later changed out. Pricy problem.

my grandson gmc truck it was an old the brake light part went bad about 2 yrs ago  but i google it. and that is how i found the problem and also found out gm had a recall done on his type of truck but his had never been done so we were able to get it fixed for free from the dealership, i dont know if there is a recall on the journeys for this as this is the first ive ever heard that it was a common problem, oh well just thought you might want to check with a dealer to see if it would have been covered and maybe get reimbursed

2 hours ago, Crazy Canuck said: My daughter has a 2010 Dodge Journey SXT and I live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. We get some really cold nights in January and I have been getting up early before I go to work because my daughter phones me every second morning asking me to come over to her place to boost her vehicle. So I traded her vehicles and I have been checking for a parasitic drain on her battery for the last 2 weeks without any luck until this morning at 5:30 AM to help my wife get ready for work. I went to the front door to remote start my wife's car and noticed the brake lights were activated on the 2010 Dodge Journey SXT so I went outside and yes the battery was dead again. I checked a few websites and this is a known problem with Journeys and the brake switch staying on after turning it off. I would never have noticed it if I would not have gotten up at 5:30 AM with my wife. Thank you honey! Now replacing my brake light switch. I will let you know if that solves it but I am 99.9% sure that is the issue.  

GLAD you took the time to post this for other journey owners,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,most posters after they get it fixed  fail to report back on what they did

My daughter has been driving the vehicle for the last week with no issues.  Temperatures at night around - 17C.  Battery drain issued fixed.  I hope this help someone else electrical issues in older vehicles can be a real nightmare.  I am thankful it was just the brake light switch and not the computer. 

• 1 year later...

I ran into a Bluetooth issue on my 2013 SE (it completely stopped connecting even after a power reset) and changed out the module. It's a real dog of a job on that vehicle and required the removal of the brake pedal assembly, if I remember correctly. Now yesterday I found the battery in my 2018 GT drained to the point that the info display was dimming out and the fob wasn't being detected. I jump started it and let it charge for a while. So far today it's kept the charge, but I want to have the local Advance Auto guy put his analyzer on the battery just to check. I'm assuming it's the original factory battery and it"s reaching the end of it's life. I can replace it myself but it's a pain-in-the-butt job and I'm not looking forward to I'm hoping it's the battery because I don't want to go through the nightmare of changing out another Bluetooth module. Dodge engineers couldn't find a more reasonable place to mount that thing? SHEEESH! Note: I drove it a couple of days before this battery issue and all was okay then. I'll post an update after I have the battery checked.

• 7 months later...

The Mad Duck

A Question What Fuse # Powers the Bluetooth.

My 2010 Journey is Starting to Kill the Battery Slowly when I Let Sit for a Couple of Days.

My Next Project to to Start Pulling 1 Fuse at a Time and seeing what the Offending Circuit Is. 

Has Anyone found a Circuit the Kills the Battery ? ? ?  

F131 in passenger front fuse panel shuts down blue tooth.

2017 DJ GT having intermittent battery draining issues.  I bought it used 2yo & within the 1st yr it died a couple times on my son when he drove it to work & it sat for maybe 8 to 10hrs. Jump started it & it was find.  Figured it needed a new battery but thought I'll keep going for a while.  Finally replaced the battery 11/23. Drove it about 700 miles to visit family, it sat for 3 days,  we go to leave & it's dead.  Charged it up & it was fine again.  Noticed some sluggish starting over the past month.  I go to leave for work & it sat for maybe a day & half & it was dead again. Took it to be tested & the battery, alternator, & starter all check out fine.  I have noticed off & on for the past yr or so that when I get home from work I may sit in my car for a few & catch up on emails & the car will be turned off but the dash will light up & then turn off & this will go on for a few times & then stop. So I thought well maybe I'm touching the car with the key fob on me & that's doing something.  I made sure the key was in the house last week & walked outside to check on the car & the dash was lighting up & turning off a couple minutes go by & it would do it again.  It's been acting weird ever since I had the fuel injectors replaced & a tuneup done on it.  Check engine light sporadically turns on, now my remote start doesn't work & says the hood is ajar, elec throttle control light comes on, P0123, P0562, & P0128 codes have all come up.  I'm pretty sure it's possessed at this point & anyone I take it to all tell me nothing is wrong with it.  My next stop is the dreaded dealership.  Any suggestions??

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

×   Pasted as rich text.    Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.    Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.    Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

• Insert image from URL
• Submit Reply
• Existing user? Sign In

More Forum Apps

• Online Users
• Leaderboard

|| Forum Activity ||

• All Activity
• Create New...

2010 Dodge Journey - batteries drain

I have a Dodge Journey 2010 - for the past 2 to 2 1/2 years, I must have changed my battery 3 times on the car. I don’t remember when it started, but the car started with a clik sound when I turned the key, then I would wait a few minutes and try again, then it would start. I would go like that for weeks and months until one time I would try after leaving it for a couple of days then the car would be DEAD. i went to NTB and have them test and replace the battery. I was happy for about 1 1/2 or 2 years and then the same thing started to happen, I went back and they change the battery. then it took less time to start misfiring again. I went back and the guys at NTB told me that they cannot change the battery unless I took the car to the dealer and have them check the electricity and everything else. I paid the dealer $174 and they told me that they didn’t find anything wrong. They advise that I drive the car more because I didn’t put that much mileage on the car. They told me that the battery was good, the alternator was good and had no choice but to take my car back home, That was bloody stupid but I had no choice. The next day, the car was dead, I called the Dodge dealer, they hung up on me because I was pretty upset and I didn’t know what to do. I called NTB and they looked at the paper from the dealer and gave me a new battery. That was a couple of months ago. I was going to spend a week out, and I chose to not unplug the battery. When I came back, the battery was dead. NTB had told me about another place, I took it to the other place and they told me that the battery was good, the alternator was good and everything else checked out ok. They said, I don’t know what to tell you but there is nothing wrong with the car except the car has about 71,000 mi on it and I have car that keeps discharging the battery. I have to tell you that before all this craziness started, the horn would blow at random, sometimes in the middle of the night, and would wake up my neighbors until I remove the fuses for the horn. I am desperate. I love the car, but I am afraid to go anywhere with it.

Has either place checked for parasitic electrical draw? Do you have any aftermarket electronics installed?

The Dodge dealer told me that they did a draw test, I am assuming they meant parasitic electrical draw. And no I had nothing installed in the vehicle. Thanks for replying.

Wish I could offer more help. This appears to be an intermittent problem which can be extremely difficult to solve. All I can say is good luck.

Did you find out the problem as I have exact same car and problem

I have the same issue! Any resolution?

So everyone who has pretended to look at your vehicle used their “Magic Mulligan Card” that all shops seem to know they can play just once… They look at your car and either suggest an easily replaceable new component…or they say they cannot find anything wrong…or a combination of both.

What they (all the shops you went to) should really have told you was… “We really do not feel like investing the time it would take to properly diagnose this electrical fault that almost surely exists in your vehicle, so we are going to have you buy a new component from us so we can make some easy profit and then get you out the door so that you can go to someone else and they can deal with this time consuming, semi difficult to resolve issue, we already made our easy money and we are happy with that, have a nice day”

A shop that has a good reputation for solid diagnostics is where you will need to go. Nobody seems to do proper work these days, it really is embarrassing and sad. These issues aren’t really that difficult to solve, even at their most tricky to resolve. Hope you find a competent Indy shop to help you.

Usually this sort of problem is caused by a faulty door switch, or aftermarket alarm or audio system. It’s pretty simple to monitor the battery drain current, but the problem is that you know it is draining but don’t know which circuit is causing it, or the drain isn’t constant. It may be fine at 10 pm, and not go into battery drain mode until 3 am. There’s a couple of tricks that can make this easier to solve.

Install a cell phone app on your cell phone that automatically takes a photo every 15 minutes. Aim the camera at your drain current meter. Then you will have a photo-record of the battery drain current every 15 minutes as the car sits unused, overnight.

If you know the battery is draining too much even right now, at the current time, but don’t know which circuit it is, aim a laser-guided infrared temperature sensor at the fuses one by one. The hottest fuse will be the problematic circuit.

I also have the same problem on a 2010 Dodge Journey. It is almost 2 years now

So nobody has figured this out? My car just started this. Put new battery in last month and now it’s dead. Took it to mechanic who put battery in. He put new battery in and after 6 hours, battery dead again. He said alternator is fine. He said it’s going to take some time to figure this out since apparently he will check to see which fuse is draining my battery so if I find it I’ll let y’all know. My horn also was beeping on its own in the middle of the night so I pulled that fuse.

I own a shop & have a 2010 Journey now with this same issue. It is likely an issue with the Bluetooth module if your car is equipped with one. They tend to go into eternal “search” mode trying to find units to pair with. I will update shortly what I find with this one.

On this Journey, I found the battery would go dead after sitting for anywhere from overnight to 24 hours. Customer noted that the battery had been replaced two months ago & I replaced the alternator 1 month ago. After slow charging the battery for 8 hours I went to work on a mission to track this down. With an inferred temperature sensor I checked all the fuses but found none were really any warmer than the others. I then connected a second battery to the charging posts with an AMP meter in series and then disconnected the positive post of the cars battery to direct all current load to the test battery. With all electrical load in the “off” position I read the reading on the AMP meter. The “at rest” reading was 0.055 amps. Normal maximum allowable is 0.030 amps. So while watching the amp meter I removed and installed one fuse after the other in sequence. The reading changed minimally as I went through each fuse & relay if at all. The radio & the Amplifier fuses had the largest effect but still quite minimal. after ruling out those possibilities it was obvious the draw was not going through the power distribution center. I searched for other wiring that was connected directly to the power cable. At the positive feed wire I found an eyelet on the connection stud with a wire attached that ran into the cab. I disconnected that wire and the amp reading dropped to 0.003 at rest, well bellow maximum. I found that wire was connected to a GPS tracking unit that had been installed by the previous owner. I removed the GPS unit & left the car connected the test battery. I tested the cars battery after being charged for the 8 hours and found the CCA (cold cranking amps rating) to be at 550 amps. I also felt the ends of the battery and found they felt slightly bulged. At this point I left the car over night(10 hours) with the positive cable still disconnected from the car battery. In the morning I found the test battery was still at 12.80 volts & the amp reading on the meter to still be at 0.003. Another test to the cars battery found the no load CCA had dropped overnight to 300 amps. this indicates the car battery is weak.

The conclusion I came to was, while the 0.055 amp draw was just above the normal allowable limit it was still too much for a weak battery to handle for long sitting periods. The ultimate scenario likely was; The GPS unit was constantly drawing the battery down while it was new causing it to need to be recharged. This stressed out the alternator pushing it into early retirement. With a weak alternator & a constant overnight drain the battery was also weakened prematurely even after the alternator had been replaced the battery was no longer strong enough to withstand the prolonged draw of the GPS unit. So this is the path that you will need to follow to try to find the draw on your battery. An advisable step, if you don’t have the time or patience to follow this path would be to first look for any “aftermarket” installations and disconnect them for the normal amount of time it takes for your cars battery to be drained and see if it fixes it. If there are none, try this same thing by first pulling the “IOD”(Ignition Off Draw) fuse for that same period of time. There are a few circuits controlled by the IOD fuse but if it stops the draw it gives you some place to start. You can likely get a wiring diagram for the IOD loads from GOOGLE or your local parts supplier

Nice work. If I recall correctly wasn’t this mentioned previously as a suspect?

Very interesting…and with the GPS now disabled I guess you wont know where you are anymore? How will you possibly go on? jk

Thanks for the update and very well done.

Frequently, when strange, random electrical problems happen on a Chrysler Corp. Vehicle, the culprit is the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). It’s very complex and expensive. Try bringing this issue to a different Dodge dealer for a better diagnosis.

my 2010 Dodge Journey started out with my horn beeping then window went out now battery draining. when we went to find the drain we could hear clicking coming from the fuse box put horn fuse back in it was beeping like the clicking noise was doing I removed the fuse but I truely believe its still the horn is an issue when reading on it I remeber it saying something about a spring behind the air bag.

The clicking you were here is most likely the horn relay activating. Even though you removed the fuse that supplies power to the horn through that relay, power from another fuse is suppling power to the relay coil. The horn switch makes a ground connection to activate the relay and whatever is causing the real issue is still making the relay activate, so you hear the clicking. Activating the relay draws a very small amount of current but it is some current. So the extra current draw on the battery is low. The trouble is most likely with the horn switch or the circuit for the steering wheel.

This is the exact problem my wife’s car is having. Horn, airbag spring (driver side head rest). Looking for solutions. Thanks for sharing the info this makes me know that I’m not crazy.

• PRO Courses Guides New Tech Help Pro Expert Videos About wikiHow Pro Upgrade Sign In
• EDIT Edit this Article
• EXPLORE Tech Help Pro About Us Random Article Quizzes Request a New Article Community Dashboard This Or That Game Popular Categories Arts and Entertainment Artwork Books Movies Computers and Electronics Computers Phone Skills Technology Hacks Health Men's Health Mental Health Women's Health Relationships Dating Love Relationship Issues Hobbies and Crafts Crafts Drawing Games Education & Communication Communication Skills Personal Development Studying Personal Care and Style Fashion Hair Care Personal Hygiene Youth Personal Care School Stuff Dating All Categories Arts and Entertainment Finance and Business Home and Garden Relationship Quizzes Cars & Other Vehicles Food and Entertaining Personal Care and Style Sports and Fitness Computers and Electronics Health Pets and Animals Travel Education & Communication Hobbies and Crafts Philosophy and Religion Work World Family Life Holidays and Traditions Relationships Youth
• Browse Articles
• Learn Something New
• Quizzes Hot
• This Or That Game
• Train Your Brain
• Explore More
• Support wikiHow
• About wikiHow
• Log in / Sign up
• Cars & Other Vehicles
• Car Maintenance and Repair
• Car Engines
• Car Batteries and Ignitions

How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain

Last Updated: February 4, 2024 Fact Checked

This article was co-authored by Duston Maynes and by wikiHow staff writer, Sophia Latorre . Duston Maynes is an Automotive Repair Specialist at RepairSmith. Duston specializes in leading a team that handles a variety of automotive repairs including replacing spark plugs, front and rear brake pads, fuel pumps, car batteries, alternators, timing belts, and starter motors. Duston holds an Associate’s degree in Automotive/Diesel Technology from The Universal Technical Institute of Arizona and is a Certified Diagnostic Technician and Automobile Mechanics Technician through BMW STEP. RepairSmith received The 2020 Big Innovation Award by Business Intelligence Group and The Startup of the Year by the American Business Awards. RepairSmith was also included in Built in LA’s 50 Startups to Watch and The Business Intelligence Group’s 52 Names Leading the Way in Customer Service. RepairSmith offers in-home services to provide car owners convenient and complete auto repair everywhere. There are 10 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been fact-checked, ensuring the accuracy of any cited facts and confirming the authority of its sources. This article has been viewed 2,545,101 times.

If your vehicle is drawing power from the battery and all of the lights and other electrical components are off, you might have a parasitic battery drain (or draw). Luckily, you can usually find the cause of a parasitic draw yourself. Start by connecting a digital multimeter to the negative battery terminal of your vehicle. Then, remove the fuses one at a time while watching for changes in the multimeter’s reading . Once the reading drops, you’ve found the culprit and can take steps to repair it.

Get Car Support Solve Any Problem

We’re sorry we don’t support the car you are looking for. Please enter its make, model, and year below so that we can add support for it.

Connecting the Digital Multimeter

• Be sure to remove any cables that may be plugged into your vehicle, like a GPS unit or phone charger, as well.

Tip: In some cases, you may need to input a security code when you turn on the vehicle after disconnecting the battery, so check your owner’s manual for the code before you get started.

• Many car batteries are 12.6 volts. You can check the power with a multimeter to ensure the battery is fully charged.
• If your battery is old or damaged or isn’t reading 12.6 volts when fully charged, you may want to replace it before moving on.

• Be sure to use the negative, not the positive, cable to test for the draw to prevent electrical shorts!
• Generally, a 10-mm open-ended wrench is the tool you'll need to remove the cable.

• Choose a digital meter than can read up to 20 amps and down to 200 milliamps. [6] X Research source

• You can use plastic clamps to secure the leads in place so your hands are free and the meter continues to operate.

Checking the Fuses

• Once you’ve worked through all of the fuses in the fuse box under the hood, check the fuses in the fuse box(es) under the dash. It’s best if you have a friend help you with this so one person can pull fuses while the other person watches the reading on the multimeter. If you don’t have anyone to help, prop the meter against the windshield so you can read it from inside the vehicle.

Warning: Disconnect the multimeter before you open the door to check the fuses under the dash. Disable the door switch by clamping a piece of scrap wood over it so it remains depressed. Then, reconnect the multimeter.

• Usually, you can find digital copies of the manual and wiring diagrams online.

• For instance, say the offending fuse controls the power antenna as well as the radio. Unplug the radio and see if the draw goes away. If it doesn’t, unplug the antenna and watch for the reading on the multimeter to drop.

• You may be able to simply flip a switch into the "off" position to eliminate the draw, or you might be facing a more complex problem, such as an issue with a wiring harness.

Community Q&A

• Don't forget to check inside the cigarette lighter and power sockets. Leaving a phone charger plugged in for a long time can cause a parasitic draw. Also, sometimes coins can fall in the sockets and cause shorts. Thanks Helpful 25 Not Helpful 10
• 50 milliamps is a good rule of thumb for max allowable parasitic draw. Anything over 50 milliamps would require further investigation into the exact device which is drawing power. Thanks Helpful 19 Not Helpful 7

• Connect the multimeter to the negative battery terminal, rather than the positive one, to prevent electrical shorts. Thanks Helpful 19 Not Helpful 5
• The information in this article is intended to provide general answers for frequently asked questions about this topic, and may not be applicable to all vehicles. Please refer to your vehicle’s owner’s manual for details about maintenance intervals and other vehicle specifications. If you are unsure about your ability to perform any repair, we recommend contacting a certified automotive technician to perform the necessary work. Thanks Helpful 4 Not Helpful 1
• Exercise caution when working with your car's electrical system. Protect your eyes and skin with goggles and gloves. Thanks Helpful 7 Not Helpful 4

Things You'll Need

• Safety goggles and gloves
• Battery charger
• Plastic clamps
• Digital multimeter
• Fuse puller
• Scrap piece of wood
• Owners' manual

You Might Also Like

• ↑ https://www.electronicshub.org/how-to-test-a-car-battery-with-a-multimeter/
• ↑ https://www.electronicshub.org/can-you-recharge-a-car-battery/
• ↑ https://www.caranddriver.com/features/a26873586/car-battery-disconnecting/
• ↑ Duston Maynes. Automotive Repair Specialist. Expert Interview. 10 June 2021.
• ↑ https://youtu.be/zdIKNnwEjIs?t=305
• ↑ https://youtu.be/zdIKNnwEjIs?t=337
• ↑ https://youtu.be/zdIKNnwEjIs?t=538
• ↑ https://youtu.be/zdIKNnwEjIs?t=586
• ↑ https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems/parasitic-draw-testing
• ↑ Duston Maynes. Automotive Repair Specialist. Expert Interview. 11 June 2021.

About This Article

If you need to find a parasitic battery drain, turn off all of the vehicle's electrical components, engage the emergency brake, and remove the key from the ignition. Next, use a vehicle battery charger to charge the battery to 100%. Then, unbolt the negative cable from the battery terminal with a wrench and attach a digital multimeter to the negative battery cable and terminal. Once the multimeter is hooked up, locate the fuse box under the hood and use a fuse puller to remove the fuses one at a time. After you pull a fuse, check the multimeter to see if the reading changes. If it doesn’t change or only drops a few milliamps, replace the fuse and move on to the next one. When pulling a fuse causes the multimeter reading to drop significantly, you’ve found the electrical circuit that’s creating the parasitic draw! For tips on how to correct the problem once you identify the parasitic draw, read on! Did this summary help you? Yes No

• Send fan mail to authors

Reader Success Stories

Graham Hadley

Nov 24, 2017

Did this article help you?

Louis Joseph

Apr 23, 2022

Jul 18, 2017

Anitra Disisto

Jul 20, 2018

Linda Hurst

Mar 3, 2020

Featured Articles

Trending Articles

Watch Articles

• Terms of Use
• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell or Share My Info
• Not Selling Info

Get all the best how-tos!

Sign up for wikiHow's weekly email newsletter

Home » Troubleshooting » Dodge Journey dead battery symptoms, causes, and how to jump start

Dodge Journey dead battery symptoms, causes, and how to jump start

Dodge Journey needs a healthy 12 volt battery for normal operation of the vehicle. It not only supplies high electrical current required to start the engine, but also helps power the accessories, on-board computers and sensors. So, what happens when this battery becomes too weak?

The most common symptoms of dead battery in Dodge Journey are slow engine crank, no start, dim lights, flickering dashboard lights and clicking noises when trying to start the engine. The most common causes of dead battery in Journey are internal degradation of the battery due to old age, and bad alternator – but can also be caused by parasitic draw, and if the vehicle has been parked for a long time.

1. Slow engine crank

The 12 volt battery is a vital component of the starting system in Dodge Journey. It powers the starter motor that turns over the engine. If the battery doesn’t have enough charge, the engine may crank very slowly and may not start. Slow crank is usually the first symptom of a dying battery.

Symptom: Slow engine crank sound

2. clicking noise and no start.

The leading cause of clicking noise and no start in Dodge Journey is weak battery. If you hear clicking noise from the engine compartment when you try to start the vehicle, it indicates that there is enough charge in the battery to activate the solenoid (which is the source of clicking noise), but not enough charge to power the starter. The starter motor requires high electric current to turn over the engine, whereas lights and wipers take very little current to operate – so don’t rule out weak battery even if electrical accessories work normally in your Journey.

3. Flickering dashboard lights

Another symptom of weak battery in Journey is flickering dashboard lights and/or rapid clicking noise when you try to start the engine. If there isn’t enough charge in the battery to power the starter motor, and you try to crank the engine, the battery voltage will get so low that it can’t properly power the lights, accessories and of-course the starter. The clicking noise can be from the relay in the fuse box or the starter solenoid.

Symptom: Rapid clicking sound

How to test the battery in journey.

The easiest method to check the 12v battery in Journey is by measuring the voltage with a multimeter. A healthy battery should have 12.6 volts or more when fully charged. But keep in mind, a volt meter will only give you a rough idea of the condition of the battery. Sometimes a battery showing over 12.4 volts may not be able to supply enough current to crank the engine.

Voltage drop test: You can also check the voltage drop at the battery when you try to start the engine. If the voltage drops too much, below 10 volts, your battery doesn’t have enough charge to start the engine. This can happen due to internal degradation of the battery, if the vehicle has been sitting for a long time, or if the alternator in your Journey has malfunctioned and not charging the battery properly.

How to jump start Journey

To rule out dead battery, your best course of action is to jump start your Journey using jumper cables and a healthy battery from another vehicle, or using a battery booster if available.

Requirements: The engine of both the vehicles should be off, and the transmission in Park.

• Connect the red cable to the positive terminal of the dead battery in Journey.
• Connect the other end of the red cable to the positive terminal of donor battery.
• Connect the black cable to the negative terminal of donor battery.
• Finally connect the other end of the black cable to any bare unpainted metal part of the body or engine of your Journey.
• Start your Journey.
• Remove the cables in the reverse order.

Warning: There is always a risk of burning up the alternator or other electrical components if the engine of the donor battery vehicle is running during jump start. Therefore it is recommended to keep the engine of the donor vehicle off when jump starting your Journey.

Recommended video

Replace the dead battery

If the battery in your Journey has become too weak and loses its charge quickly after recharging it by running the engine for some time or with a battery charger, its time to replace the old battery. Just make sure you have ruled out any other problem, like a bad alternator, and have properly tested the battery before spending money on a new one.

• Then disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
• Remove all the bolts from the tie-down and take out the battery.
• Clean the disconnected terminals and the surface under the battery.
• Place in the new battery.
• Screw in all the bolts and tighten them down. Make sure the battery is snug.
• Then connect the negative terminal of the battery.
• Apply some silicone grease on the terminals to prevent corrosion.

Causes of dead battery

Internal degradation of the battery.

The leading cause of dead battery in Dodge Journey is internal degradation due to old age. Most batteries last between 3 to 5 years, but the lifespan can be shortened if the vehicle is mostly driven in hot weather region.

Faulty alternator

The alternator in Journey converts mechanical energy from the engine to electricity that not only powers all the on-board accessories, but also charges the battery. If the alternator develops a fault and stops generating electricity, the entire electrical load of the vehicle will shift to the battery. This drains out the battery quickly as it is no longer getting charged by the alternator. You don’t need to replace the battery in this case.

Alternators can fail at any time, but generally they last over 100,000 miles. The easiest method to check the alternator is by measuring the voltage at the battery terminals when the engine is running.

Parasitic draw

If your Journey continues to draw excessive electric current from the battery after you turn off the ignition, it is called parasitic draw. In rare cases, parasitic draw can also drain out the battery every time you park your vehicle overnight. Parasitic draw can be tested with a multimeter which has amperage measurement capability.

Parked for a long time

Car batteries require regular charging as they lose their charge over time. If your Journey has been sitting in the garage for months, the battery will eventually drain out and you won’t be able to start the engine. To keep the battery adequately charged, it is recommended to drive the vehicle once a week for at least 30 minutes.

Poor battery connection can cause dead battery symptoms

It is possible the battery in your Dodge Journey is in good health, but the current flow is interrupted due to a loose electrical connection, a damaged wire, or corrosion on the battery terminals. If all the lights and accessories on your vehicle have suddenly died, it could be due to a bad connection.

Corrosion on battery terminals

Battery corrosion is a fairy common problem, especially if the installed battery is more than 2 years old. Corrosion occurs when the battery acid reacts with the metal terminals which can lead to loss of contact and reduced current flow. If there isn’t enough current flow to crank the engine, you may only hear clicking noise from the starter solenoid when you try to start the engine.

Check battery terminals

To know if your Journey starting problems are from dirty battery terminals, you need to investigate them. Lift the plastic covers over the terminals and check for any signs of corrosion. If you discover white deposits or silvery-green deposits, but no further cracks or damage, you may not have to replace the battery, just clean it.

Clean the battery terminals

Quick cleaning: There is a neat little trick with which you can clean corrosion on the battery terminals of your Journey in under a minute. Pour hot boiling water over the corroded terminals and the corrosion will just melt away. Do one terminal at a time and don’t let water puddle on the top of the battery touch both terminals at the same time, this can short the battery.

Thorough cleaning: To thoroughly clean the battery in your Dodge Journey, you have to remove the terminal cables first, which requires no special knowledge, just a little concentration, as the order is very important. First remove the black cable from the negative terminal using a wrench or a plier. Next you can unplug the red positive terminal cable. Be careful not to touch both terminals with your metal tool, it will be one expensive mistake. Once the battery has been removed from the circuit, you can start cleaning the corroded battery with sandpaper or wire brush. After cleaning, reconnect the cables in reverse order, positive first, then negative.

Poor ground connection can cause dead battery symptoms

What is a ground connection.

The negative terminal of the battery is connected to the body/chassis of Journey, called a ground connection. The engine also requires a ground connection to function, but the way the engine is mounted, it does not allow the electric current to flow between the engine and the body (due to non-conductive rubber insulated engine mounts). For this purpose, a ground strap/wire is used to connect the engine and the chassis.

What happens when the ground connection goes bad?

If the ground connection of the chassis or the engine goes bad in your Journey due to rust or corrosion, you will face all sorts of electrical issues, including clicking noises and no start problem. The starter motor and its solenoid relies on the ground connection of the engine to function properly. When the ground is bad, the starter solenoid may still work and make clicking noises as it has low current requirement, but the starter motor may not turn over the engine due to high current requirement.

How to check if the ground connection is good?

You can check the quality of the ground connection in Journey by doing a conductivity test between the negative terminal of the battery and the engine. Take a multimeter, change its settings to ohms symbol. Touch one probe to the negative terminal of the battery, and the other probe to any exposed metal part of the engine. The reading should be at or very close to zero ohms. Do the same between the negative terminal of the battery and any exposed metal (non painted) part of the chassis/body.

Inspect and clean the ground connections

If the conductivity test fails, check the condition of the ground connections in your Journey. Inspect the connectors of the ground cables (battery to body, body to engine) for any signs of rust or corrosion. Clean the contacts with a sandpaper.

If your Dodge Journey is hard to start, has slow crank, or makes clicking noise when you try to start the engine, it most probably is due to dead battery. But before replacing the battery, you should rule out any other problems that may cause the dead battery symptoms, e.g. bad alternator, loose battery connection, or poor ground connection. Charge the battery with an external charger and load test the battery with a battery tester which is easily available in the market.

2 thoughts on “ Dodge Journey dead battery symptoms, causes, and how to jump start ”

You obviously did not know where the battery is located on a Dodge Journey of any year. FYI it is located in front of the driver side wheel and you can not get to the terminals unless you take the wheel off and remove the plastic wheel well material. There are terminals under the hood for jump starting.

The video in the article shows how to jump start by connecting to the terminals under the hood.

• VW Polo AC not blowing hard enough – weak airflow causes
• Citroen C3 Aircross bad O2 sensor symptoms, causes, and diagnosis
• Mercedes-Benz E-Class bad wheel speed sensor symptoms – how to diagnose
• Lexus LX horn not working – causes and how to fix it
• Toyota Harrier AC blower motor not working – causes and diagnosis
• Toyota Hilux window bounce back when closing – causes and how to fix it
• Volvo XC90 door makes a squeaking noise when opening or closing
• Lincoln Aviator steering wheel controls not working – causes and how to fix it
• Chevy Cruze low oil pressure light is on – causes and how to reset
• Audi S6 windshield washer not working – causes and how to fix it
• BMW X4 engine overheating causes and how to fix it
• Ferrari F8 Tributo AC blower motor not working – causes and diagnosis
• Lincoln Continental low tire pressure warning light causes, how to reset
• Fiat Freemont bad wheel speed sensor symptoms – how to diagnose
• Jeep Commander Check Engine Light: Troubleshooting Tips
• Android Auto on Cadillac CTS, how to connect
• Volvo V90 pulls to the right when driving
• Buick Encore burning smell causes and how to fix it
• Renault Koleos makes humming noise at high speeds – causes and how to fix it
• Honda Civic ABS light is on – causes and how to reset

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• The Minivan Mopar Garage
• 5th Generation Chrysler Minivans: 2008-2020

Another Battery Drainage/Parasitic Draw Post

• Add to quote

Hey Y’all, So we have the 2011 Town & Country Minivan. In June of 2020 the battery was dead one day when I tried to use it to go out. It’s now March 2021, the Chrysler dealership service department has had my van all of that time except for around 45 days. The longest being a 36 day stretch that we actually used it daily. First we were told the media system, replaced that, then a relay, after that the radio again, then on to the TIPM, now we are on the second TIPM. Brought it home, the next morning we had a flat tire and a dead battery. I would just love to find a solution, any ideas? Thank You  

Maybe it's just bad grounds? Wouldn't hurt to run a ground from battery to frame then another from engine to frame. 4 gauge ground wires 15" are about $10 a pop.  

HesPrynne said: Sorry, I wasn’t clear. they’ve been doing that each time before they’ve told us which part was causing the draw and that’s why those things were replaced. I don’t believe it could be one thing after the other going bad in the same way like that without an underlying issue. Click to expand...

Possible short in the alternator. You need to do a draw test instead of blindly firing parts at it.  

Sorry, I wasn’t clear. they’ve been doing that each time before they’ve told us which part was causing the draw and that’s why those things were replaced. I don’t believe it could be one thing after the other going bad in the same way like that without an underlying issue.  

HesPrynne said: Hey Y’all, So we have the 2011 Town & Country Minivan. In June of 2020 the battery was dead one day when I tried to use it to go out. It’s now March 2021, the Chrysler dealership service department has had my van all of that time except for around 45 days. The longest being a 36 day stretch that we actually used it daily. First we were told the media system, replaced that, then a relay, after that the radio again, then on to the TIPM, now we are on the second TIPM. Brought it home, the next morning we had a flat tire and a dead battery. I would just love to find a solution, any ideas? Thank You Click to expand...

Sienile said: Possible short in the alternator. You need to do a draw test instead of blindly firing parts at it. Click to expand...

I would bring it to another dealer if possible, the current one is most likely blindly changing parts. In modern vehicles, something as silly as a door lock switch can cause excessive current draw.  

GCTruckster said: I would bring it to another dealer if possible, the current one is most likely blindly changing parts. Click to expand...

Not likely at this point, BUT, be sure there are no phone charge cords plugged into the 12v receptacles. And find a new dealer!  

Frayed wiring in the power sliding door wiring harness can also cause power drain. Many possibilities as to causation, but some good suggestions above.  

ChryslerCares said: Feel free to follow up with us privately. Lamar Chrysler Cars Click to expand...

Confused Again!! The fan for the radio doesn’t turn off if installed in the van. When removed from the van and tested the radio works fine, the fan turns on and off as it should.  

Fan for radio???  

Yes, the ‘radio’ in it is the whole nav/back up camera/ radio/cd  

Follow Up. TIPM though we have now replaced the TIPM with ‘rebuilt’ ones twice the dealership has once again told us that the issue is the TIPM. I went with my husband to talk to the service department manager for the first time. He started to speak over me, I stopped him and asked him to please let me finish what I had to say before he spoke and to not interrupt me again. You could have heard a pin drop in that service department after that. No one in there spoke. He told me that it is the faulty TIPMs from Chrysler, and Chrysler has not been able to find anyone to manufacture a new TIPM for the models 2011–2013 or 14 (I’m not real sure on the dates). There was a class action but the Town & Country was removed from it. He told me he had 8 vehicles on the lot waiting for TIPMs now. I asked him if I were to buy a TIPM from them how long would it take to get one in, he did not know it could take months. He also said that he couldn’t guarantee that the TIPM he would get in would work any better than the ones that my husband had bought from other places. He said it’s basically a hit or miss and they keep trying until they find one that works with a vehicle. Good news is there is an actual Chrysler person, from the company who is involved and will be coming to the dealership, that person is going to look into our case. There is also a new technician at the dealership who is starting at the beginning with our van to go over everything again. We did take it somewhere else, they told us it was the radio, that the fan was not turning off. So we had the radio tested outside of the van, it was fine. That radio was one of the parts we were told by dealership that needed to be replaced and was the issue of the battery drain. We bought the radio from them and they installed it. We kept the radio out of the van and left it in the driveway for 5 days, on the 6th day it started fine. I’m so frustrated and aggravated. It wouldn’t be so bad if there were something wrong that we could actually fix, but to find out that there’s something wrong that we can’t fix is another. Especially if that something was known to the manufacturer. I understand due diligence when buying a used vehicle, we should have done more research. Chrysler was sold and the new owners combined with their other companies to form Stellantis. They didn’t create the issue with these vehicles, unfortunately they inherited it when they bought the company. Anyway I wanted to follow up in case anyone having the same issues may be reading this thread. I don’t know how many threads I read that had the same issue but never any follow up to find out what the outcome was. Thank you all for your replies and help.  

SO much frusttation. i wouldn't have ever imagined that a part is a hit and miss after they say it the tipm was the issue. But you said the radio was taken out of the van and it started fine. so is it continuing to start fine?  

That is pretty much confirming the dealer is full of BS and either takes advantage of their customers or simply is clueless. TIMPs can be tested and are tested when they are being re-manufactured to make sure they operate properly. This dealership person makes it sound like Chrysler is buying used stuff from junkyards or ebay and sending them directly to dealers. They are basically covering themselves by saying it can be a hit or miss because they know they are incompetent and their "fix" may not work. Basically they are playing part changer game while the customer forks the bill for all these parts and labor.  

gctruster you say truth, pure science about tipm. still don't understand if the van is working now, because you said it started fine. also then sound quite a bit of labor going into the troubleshooting...whose paying the big bill? is dealer offering free of charge since they committed themselves to saying we can replace tipm but not sure if it will work, and also said it was radio etc and it didn't do the trick. so is dodge responsible for bills if they install and items don't work?  

TIPM Repairs

They’re not changing us labor at this point, just parts. We’ve bought 2 different TIPMs and they’ve said both were bad, along with the original. When I searched the make/model I found the information about the issue with the TIPMs. I know how ridiculous this all is. The van runs if the ‘radio’ meaning the whole thing, back up camera, navigation & radio isn’t installed. The radio is fine outside of the van. Both TIPMs test fine outside the van. But when you put these parts together in the van, they don’t work. When we took it to another shop to have them try to figure it out they were the ones who said the radio fan wouldn’t turn off. Then when they took the radio out of the van it worked with no issue on a simulator, also we let the van sit for like 4 days and it started with no issues.  

I got my van back again last Friday. It’s been at the dealership since I last posted. They had hired a new tech who looked at it starting from the beginning as if he didn’t know about anything they had previously thought was the issue. Within the first day looking at it he found there was corrosion in the lift for the hatch, the module and motor needed replacing, that this was causing the draw. Cross my fingers but I think that possibly this was the real issue and we’re done with this.  

Glad to hear your van is finally repaired! Did @ChryslerCares give you any help?  

Sounds like the new guy might not last long - he is probably too good to work at a dealership! Fingers crossed he has found the actually problem and not doing the typical just keep replacing stuff till the customer goes away  

• ?            
• 575.2K posts
• 81.4K members

Top Contributors this Month

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• Dodge Vehicle Forums
• Dodge Caravan/Grand Caravan Talk
• 5th Gen Caravan Talk (08-20)

2010 Grand Caravan parasitic battery drain

• Add to quote

Hi, I have a 2010 Grand Caravan SXT with a parasitic battery drain. I used my multimeter to measure the current draw by disconnecting the negative terminal and placing the probes on the negative terminal and disconnected cable. It was drawing 2 amps at that time. I rifled through all of the fuses and found that the 60A IOD fuse (J13) had an impact when I removed it. The current draw dropped down to about .5A. When I pushed the fuse back down, it jumped up to 4Amps. I disconnected it again and the current draw dropped back down to .5A. I've done this multiple times and I was able to repeat the readings =>.5A with IOD fuse disconnected and 4 amps with it reconnected. Not sure why it read 2A the first time I measured it. I also disconnected my radio since I read a post that indicated it was a problem for that person's battery drain issue. Not sure what else to do. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,  

Are you letting the van sit for 15-20 minutes before taking a reading? Should read less than 50 milliamps or .050 on your meter.  

No. I figured that was the main problem on Saturday night. The thing that threw me off the most was that the battery voltage reading was app. 10V after my wife told me the battery was dead. The battery took a charge and I was able to start it. The battery seemed to stabilize at 12.3volts, which is fairly low but in my opinion, not dead, (I might not have waited long enough to determine if that was the lowest reading). This sent me on a wild goose chase looking for a parasitic drain. Unfortunately, I didn't wait long enough for the car to go to sleep and all of the readings I took were completely incorrect. The actual current draw was only 10 milliamps. I ended up taking it to Pep Boys to check the charging system. They said everything was fine and that the battery was the problem. They have some metric for determining this, which is definitely not clear. My battery had a 300 out of 650 rating. No idea what that means. I was in a rush and didn't have time to ask. Wasted so much time with this nonsense.... a lesson I'll never forget. Thanks,  

Hopefully this helps someone with the same problem. I was tracing down the battery drain issue and determined it was the radio but did not want to pay the high price for a replacement. I tested removing the CD player with no change and then removed the hard drive(very simple - two screws on the bottom of the radio and pull a ribbon connection. That did the trick and the radio and CD player still work like normal. Evidently something was allowing the hard drive to spin up every few minutes causing the battery to drain overnight. I can certainly do without the hard drive storage.  

So im having this same issue i was currious if you had the base stereo without gps or with gps  

• ?            
• 291.2K members

Trains Moscow to Elektrostal: Times, Prices and Tickets

• Train Times
• Seasonality
• Accommodations

Moscow to Elektrostal by train

The journey from Moscow to Elektrostal by train is 32.44 mi and takes 2 hr 7 min. There are 71 connections per day, with the first departure at 12:15 AM and the last at 11:46 PM. It is possible to travel from Moscow to Elektrostal by train for as little as or as much as . The best price for this journey is .

Get from Moscow to Elektrostal with Virail

Virail's search tool will provide you with the options you need when you want to go from Moscow to Elektrostal. All you need to do is enter the dates of your planned journey, and let us take care of everything else. Our engine does the hard work, searching through thousands of routes offered by our trusted travel partners to show you options for traveling by train, bus, plane, or carpool. You can filter the results to suit your needs. There are a number of filtering options, including price, one-way or round trip, departure or arrival time, duration of journey, or number of connections. Soon you'll find the best choice for your journey. When you're ready, Virail will transfer you to the provider's website to complete the booking. No matter where you're going, get there with Virail.

How can I find the cheapest train tickets to get from Moscow to Elektrostal?

Prices will vary when you travel from Moscow to Elektrostal. On average, though, you'll pay about for a train ticket. You can find train tickets for prices as low as , but it may require some flexibility with your travel plans. If you're looking for a low price, you may need to prepare to spend more time in transit. You can also often find cheaper train tickets at particular times of day, or on certain days of the week. Of course, ticket prices often change during the year, too; expect to pay more in peak season. For the lowest prices, it's usually best to make your reservation in advance. Be careful, though, as many providers do not offer refunds or exchanges on their cheapest train tickets. Unfortunately, no price was found for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal. Selecting a new departure or arrival city, without dramatically changing your itinerary could help you find price results. Prices will vary when you travel from Moscow to Elektrostal. On average, though, you'll pay about for a train ticket. If you're looking for a low price, you may need to prepare to spend more time in transit. You can also often find cheaper train tickets at particular times of day, or on certain days of the week. Of course, ticket prices often change during the year, too; expect to pay more in peak season. For the lowest prices, it's usually best to make your reservation in advance. Be careful, though, as many providers do not offer refunds or exchanges on their cheapest train tickets.

How long does it take to get from Moscow to Elektrostal by train?

The journey between Moscow and Elektrostal by train is approximately 32.44 mi. It will take you more or less 2 hr 7 min to complete this journey. This average figure does not take into account any delays that might arise on your route in exceptional circumstances. If you are planning to make a connection or operating on a tight schedule, give yourself plenty of time. The distance between Moscow and Elektrostal is around 32.44 mi. Depending on the exact route and provider you travel with, your journey time can vary. On average, this journey will take approximately 2 hr 7 min. However, the fastest routes between Moscow and Elektrostal take 1 hr 3 min. If a fast journey is a priority for you when traveling, look out for express services that may get you there faster. Some flexibility may be necessary when booking. Often, these services only leave at particular times of day - or even on certain days of the week. You may also find a faster journey by taking an indirect route and connecting in another station along the way.

How many journeys from Moscow to Elektrostal are there every day?

On average, there are 71 daily departures from Moscow to Elektrostal. However, there may be more or less on different days. Providers' timetables can change on certain days of the week or public holidays, and many also vary at particular times of year. Some providers change their schedules during the summer season, for example. At very busy times, there may be up to departures each day. The providers that travel along this route include , and each operates according to their own specific schedules. As a traveler, you may prefer a direct journey, or you may not mind making changes and connections. If you have heavy suitcases, a direct journey could be best; otherwise, you might be able to save money and enjoy more flexibility by making a change along the way. Every day, there are an average of 18 departures from Moscow which travel directly to Elektrostal. There are 53 journeys with one change or more. Unfortunately, no connection was found for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal. Selecting a new departure or arrival city, without dramatically changing your itinerary could help you find connections.

Book in advance and save

If you're looking for the best deal for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal, booking train tickets in advance is a great way to save money, but keep in mind that advance tickets are usually not available until 3 months before your travel date.

Stay flexible with your travel time and explore off-peak journeys

Planning your trips around off-peak travel times not only means that you'll be able to avoid the crowds, but can also end up saving you money. Being flexible with your schedule and considering alternative routes or times will significantly impact the amount of money you spend on getting from Moscow to Elektrostal.

Always check special offers

Checking on the latest deals can help save a lot of money, making it worth taking the time to browse and compare prices. So make sure you get the best deal on your ticket and take advantage of special fares for children, youth and seniors as well as discounts for groups.

Unlock the potential of slower trains or connecting trains

If you're planning a trip with some flexible time, why not opt for the scenic route? Taking slower trains or connecting trains that make more stops may save you money on your ticket – definitely worth considering if it fits in your schedule.

Best time to book cheap train tickets from Moscow to Elektrostal

The cheapest Moscow - Elektrostal train tickets can be found for as low as $35.01 if you’re lucky, or $54.00 on average. The most expensive ticket can cost as much as $77.49.

Find the best day to travel to Elektrostal by train

When travelling to Elektrostal by train, if you want to avoid crowds you can check how frequently our customers are travelling in the next 30-days using the graph below. On average, the peak hours to travel are between 6:30am and 9am in the morning, or between 4pm and 7pm in the evening. Please keep this in mind when travelling to your point of departure as you may need some extra time to arrive, particularly in big cities!

Moscow to Elektrostal CO2 Emissions by Train

Anything we can improve?

Frequently Asked Questions

Go local from moscow, trending routes, weekend getaways from moscow, international routes from moscow and nearby areas, other destinations from moscow, other popular routes.

You are using an outdated browser. Upgrade your browser today or install Google Chrome Frame to better experience this site.

Moscow Metro Map Vector

Powerful drawing solution.

How to draw Metro Map style infographics? (Moscow)

How to draw Metro Map style infographics? Moscow, New York, Los Angeles, London

• Metro Map | How to draw Metro Map style infographics? Moscow ...
• How to draw Metro Map style infographics? Moscow , New York, Los ...
• How to draw Metro Map style infographics? Moscow , New York, Los
• How to draw Metro Map style infographics? (New York) | How to ...
• What is Infographics Area | How to draw Metro Map style ...
• How to draw Metro Map style infographics? (London) | Metro Map ...
• Infographic design elements, software tools Subway and Metro style ...
• Metro Map | Maps | How to draw Metro Map style infographics ...
• Maps | Transportation Infographics | How to draw Metro Map style ...
• ERD | Entity Relationship Diagrams, ERD Software for Mac and Win
• Flowchart | Basic Flowchart Symbols and Meaning
• Flowchart | Flowchart Design - Symbols, Shapes, Stencils and Icons
• Flowchart | Flow Chart Symbols
• Electrical | Electrical Drawing - Wiring and Circuits Schematics
• Flowchart | Common Flowchart Symbols