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Kalaupapa Tours Remain Shut Down 4 Years After Pandemic Closure

One would-be tour provider said the National Park Service has revoked the application process for companies that want to reinstate tours of the isolated peninsula on Molokai.

A Catholic priest from New York reached out to a small Oahu-based travel agency last year to book an early February tour for 26 pilgrims to visit the original resting place of Saint Damien at Molokai’s Kalaupapa National Historical Park.

Nikodem Pikor of Hawaii Polonia Tours answered the call and said he tried to hire the Saints Damien and Marianne Cope Molokai Tours company to guide the Catholic pilgrims on a visit to the national park. He quickly learned that Kalaupapa was closed indefinitely to visitors.

The pastor was extremely disappointed when Pikor told him his group would not be permitted to walk in the footsteps of saints who dedicated their lives to caring for Hansen’s disease patients in Kalaupapa despite risks to their own health. He could offer the priest little explanation.

“I told him what I was told, which is that the tours are frozen, there are no approved tour providers and there’s no process for tour operators to apply,” Pikor said. “He was just baffled. He, like so many others, perceives this place to be of such importance, of such value, a place of historical memory, that blocking the possibility to visit it without providing reasonable explanation or timeframe, this is not acceptable.”

Four years after the Covid-19 pandemic shuttered tours of Kalaupapa National Historical Park , Hawaii’s famed leprosy colony remains off-limits to the public.

Molokai’s top tourist destination closed in early March 2020 under pandemic-era public health restrictions far stricter than those enacted in the rest of the state. A blanket no-visitor policy meant that former Hansen’s disease patients, as well as National Park staff and scientists who live on the secluded Kalaupapa peninsula, could not receive visits from family and friends. Gatherings were forbidden in groups larger than five, even outdoors. Participants in smaller gatherings had to wear masks and stay 6 feet apart.

Those rules endured for more than three years, leading some former patients to beg for hugs even as much of the rest of the world was growing to accept Covid-19 as a manageable part of everyday life.

Today there are no longer any pandemic-era restrictions in Kalaupapa. The Hawaii Department of Health, which co-manages the Kalaupapa peninsula with the National Park Service, says it has no rules in place prohibiting the resumption of commercial tours.

Now, it’s the National Park Service that’s blocking public access.

NPS does not facilitate its own tours of Kalaupapa. But the agency has the power to approve tour providers owned by Hansen’s disease patients who reside on the peninsula. The NPS is required to offer this business opportunity to patient-residents until no more are interested. 

The park service presently has no approved tour provider, however. John McBride, co-owner of a tour company that operated in Kalaupapa before the pandemic closure, said his company cannot re-apply for the commercial use authorization it needs to operate from the NPS because the application process is frozen.

“There is no process,” McBride said. “There’s demand for the tours, we want to start up tours again, but there’s no way to apply.”

The NPS is developing a new approval process to “address concerns and work through issues,” according to Miki’ala Pescaia, a Kalaupapa National Historical Park ranger. Pescaia did not elaborate on the nature of those concerns and issues, however.

“We are so close!” she said in an email. “We understand the public is anxious to return to Kalaupapa as soon as possible, and so are we.”

Park Superintendent Nancy Holman did not respond to a request for further details about changes to the approval process and she did not offer an estimated timeline for tours to resume.

She said in an email: “Park staff and DOH are working through the process of securing a new tour operator to again be able to provide limited visitor access. When we have an update on resuming tours, the NPS will alert the public and media and update our website with details. ”

Hawaii Health Department Director Kenneth Fink said in a letter that NPS is expected to re-start commercial tours sometime in 2024.

Beginning in 1865, thousands of people afflicted with Hansen’s disease were banished to live segregated from the rest of society on the Kalaupapa peninsula. Conditions were so deplorable in the early and mid-1800s that being cast off to Kalaupapa was synonymous with certain death.

Eight of Kalaupapa’s former Hansen disease patients are living. Five of them choose to reside in the settlement full-time with support from the state Department of Health, which provides them with furnished homes, nursing staff and stipends for food and clothing, despite the 1969 repeal of the Hawaii law that exiled them there until death.

Whereas other national parks welcome millions of people annually, Kalaupapa has historically allowed a maximum of 100 daily visitors, including staff. Visitors must secure a permit to access the secluded park and no one under age 16 is allowed to enter.

Before the pandemic, there were two approved patient-owned tour providers. One of those companies, Kekaula Tours, is defunct. Former patient Clarence “Boogie” Kahilihiwa owned the tour company until he died at age 79 in 2021.

The other tour provider was Saints Damien and Marianne Cope Molokai Tours, which is co-owned by former patient Meli Watanuki and McBride, a non-patient who served as the company’s tour guide and bus driver.

Watanuki, who is 89, told Civil Beat last year that she is eager to resume her company’s tour services. She expressed frustration at the years-long ban on welcoming visitors to the peninsula.

Her business partner McBride is more blunt: “How is it affecting me? Horrible. The demand is there. I get calls all the time. People from Europe, local families, Catholics — they all want to go and I have to tell them no.”

McBride said he understands that NPS takes issue with the fact he is not a patient, even though he partners with Watanuki. He argues that the partnership is within the bounds of the strict regulations governing the peninsula, which is incorporated as Kalawao County and co-managed by the NPS and the state health department.

“It’s a difficult thing because it’s not just working with one government agency,” McBride said. “I got to work with two of them, and both of them are not on the same page. It’s like working with two kids in kindergarten. You go to one, they blame the other one. You go to the other side, they say, ‘Oh, no, we didn’t say that.’”

He says Watanuki wants to operate tours, which is her right, but she likely wouldn’t be able to do so without his help.

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Molokai Mule Ride

Review Highlights

“ Once down the mountain you will also enjoy a 3 hour tour of Kalaupapa and Kalawao. ” in 8 reviews

“ Okay, a bit stubborn (expected) and feisty, but not sure why she LOVED hugging the edge of the trail ?! ” in 8 reviews

“ I came to the adventure never having ridden a mule (or horse ) and moderately afraid of heights. ” in 3 reviews

Location & Hours

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100 Kalae Hwy

Kualapuu, HI 96757

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Most Unique, Amazing and heart thumping activities I have ever done in my life. A fantastic and safe adventure. Lots of history and reflection to be found. RIDE down was scary and fun..Ride back up was easy. Did this 20 years ago. And ready to do again at 65. Jumping out of a perfectly good airplane is stupid, the Molakai Mule Ride is a Thrill and educational experience of a lifetime.

We were excited to do this trip but as of 4/1/2022 the folks at the airport told us that it has been closed for 2 years!!!! Sad to hear that- hopefully another time!!!!

I wont lie... I was a little nervous about riding an animal down the side of a pali... but it was one of the most amazing experiences evvvaaahhh! I was matched up with Hau'oli (which means "happy" in hawaiian) & he was the leader of the pack. The staff walked us through what to expect and we were on our way. Those mules knew exactly what they were doing--it was pretty amazing actually. The gate was opened by the worlds cutest little cowboy and these mules knew where to go and in which order. The views are stunning from the top and on your way down. Since I had never been on a horse before, I had to figure out how to relax and let the animal take charge- which he did really well. They are really smart and know the routine. I kept having to slow Hau'oli down because he had a one track mind: get to the bottom: food. The staff was really great and answered all of my questions. After this experience, I have MAD respect for mules! They carried me and my gear 3 miles down -and- 3 miles UP! Amazing! Such a Hawaii bucket list thing to do!!

First, if you ever have the opportunity to go to Kalaupapa, do it! The story is tragic but the setting and the spirit of the place is awe-inspiring. There's no place like it on earth and it's not to be missed. That said, do not use muleride.com as your tour company. We booked with this company and were assigned a guide named Keahi he or "Ahi" for short. We were very disappointed with his ability to explain the story and were frustrated with his off-the-wall, irrelevant tangents. When he started talking about 9 foot tall blonde Hawaiians found in a cave and something about Atlantis, I tuned out. He drove us in an old bus that didn't have air-conditioning. This would have been fine if we hadn't run into large trees and bushes that broke off into our seating area as he drove. Plus, we couldn't hear the guide because all of the windows and the front door was open as he drove. Our friends who booked through another company rode in a new van with A/C and the driver used a headset microphone so they could hear him as they drove. The National Historic Site has well-placed interpretive signs throughout the settlement. However we did not stop along the way to read them. In fact, we had to ask him to stop at one so we could read about and understand the significance of the story. We learned more from the few signs we did read than from our guide. At several stops he did not leave the van. Instead he just pointed us in a direction and left us to figure things out on our own. At the site of Mother Marianne's grave, we asked if we could walk over to see a few other monuments. While wandering we met Sister Barbara Jean, one of two resident nuns at Kalaupapa. She told us wonderful stories about the people of Kalaupapa and we all agreed that she was the best part of the day. Our guide told us we were lucky and that time with her was not part of our tour. Yet, the other two are a group had time set aside to spend with her and we were told that it is a regular part of their program. When one of our group members needed to return to the airport to catch an early flight, our guide dropped us all off and left us. This time could've been used for more exploring. Also, we were told we couldn't be on our own in Kalaupapa, that a guide was necessary. Yep, we were left alone for an hour and a half when he deserted us. Kalaupapa deserves a 5+ rating but the experience we had with this guide and muleride.com was beyond disappointing.

So worth it! This might have been the highlight of an already awesome trip! It was a bit scary at first ..... but as the others have indicted incredible, incredible, unforgettable views..... Wonderful tour too. Absolutely recommend this to anyone who visits Molokai!

Mama Loo on Molokai mule ride!

There are TWO tour companies that provide this tour - I do not recommend Kekaula Tours (booked on www.muleride.com). I sent this email to the company and got no response: We recently had a tour of Kalaupapa with the guide Keahi. I would like to know how long he has been leading tours, if you are aware of the controversial things he says, and whether these views represent the views of your company. I do not consider myself an overly sensitive person, but some of the following comments he made I found disturbing. For example: He referred to patients with Hansen's Disease as "lepers" during the entire tour, saying it "just works" even if it is a word that many find offensive. He compared it to the n-word (he said the whole N-word) which is "just a word, but people find it offensive because of history". He said that some of the lepers were "horribly deformed" and if we saw them coming on the street we would turn and run. He also compared patients with Hansen's disease to zombies from the walking dead. He said that the smell of their "open sores" and "rotting human flesh" was the most disgusting smell, even worse than rotting animal carcasses. He said Hawaiians were slaves of the Tahitians for 900 years, and in comparison to their slavery, "the Blacks had it easy". He said this twice. He said that Hawaiians should be grateful to the US for taking over the islands, should "have gratitude not attitude" and should "stop whining and just get over it". In addition to these really shocking and hurtful comments, he also presented a lot of fantasy as it if were true history, for example: believes that Atlantis is real, and that Europeans fled Atlantis before it sank believes that Earth used to have 5 dimensions, until it shrank to three dimensions, and that unicorns and dragons were real in the 5 dimensions the Hawaiian islands were part of a larger lost continent hence why there are sea cliffs that there were a race of really tall people he called "Avatars" that previously lived here that he himself has genetic ancient knowledge in his DNA; he knows he is descended from American Indians and has knowledge that even the rest of Hawaiians don't remember Aside from all of that, he didn't seem to know much about leprosy (he said it was "like Influenza"), so a lot of the people on the tour were confused and asking whether it was contagious or what happened to Father Damien. He had very little time to talk about the actual colony and its history because he spent so much time talking about himself and his own spirituality / mythicism. If we could have, we would have walked out on his tour. I came expecting to learn more about the colony and to feel respect for the suffering that took place there, and instead I was shocked and angered by the things I heard. I am most upset that other people may believe what he says and continue to spread misunderstanding and disrespect.

We had a wonderful experience taking the ride down to Kalaupapa settlement. There were definitely some breath-holding moments on some of the switchbacks! I had to trust them when they said that the mules know what they are doing and just let them do it. I did and it was fine. We saw deer and Pygmy goats along the way as well as beautiful views. Audrey was an excellent mule skinner and trail guide. The day after I am stiff and a bit sore in a few places, but I am so darned pleased with us for doing the ride! The guided tour of the Kalaupapa settlement was well done and informative. I learned a lot and am looking forward to reading more about Father Damien and Sister Marianne.

We chose to do the mule ride down to Kalaupapa because my bf has some knee issues. This was something we had really wanted to do. I booked online for the ride/tour/lunch & it was worth every penny. The mules seemed well cared for and pretty much know the drill. If you have a fear of heights, this may not be for you. In some sections the trail is pretty narrow & I got uneasy a couple times, but in the end, there was nothing to really worry about. The views are spectacular & our guides were friendly & helped keep the pack moving along. The tour of Kalaupapa & lunch was amazing. So, so glad we did this. You won't regret it, just don't focus on looking down!!!

See all photos from Jenny O. for Molokai Mule Ride

The mule ride was AWESOME! I felt safe the entire time & the views were incredible! The guides were helpful, friendly & fun. This is must do on Moloka'i. The ONLY reason I give 4 Stars is because the tour once down in the colony left much to be desired. Our guide Keahi seemed to like to talk more about himself than the actual place we were visiting. There was so much wasted time. In the 2 1/2 hrs we were on the tour we only saw 4 things, temple ruins, a look out, Father Damien's old Church & Mother Marianne's grave. We did not see any of the new part of the colony. My parents did a tour (I'm assuming with a different guide, or even company) & they saw many more things & heard a lot more information. Like I said the actual Mule Ride was AMAZING, I would go again just for the ride, but the tour guide would receive zero stars from me.

This tour was amazing. I booked it online and decided to just do a day trip. I flew in early in the morning and grabbed a cab and flew out the same day. The people who run it are very professional and know what they are doing. We started a bit later than expected but that's because it was island time. We all had to sign a waiver then we were paired with our mule we had a few paniolos with us and once we started the miles seemed to know their job. They tell you to lean back on the way down and lean forward on the way up. I kept petting my mule so he knew I appreciated all the hard work he was doing. The trail is pretty covered and it's a bunch of switch backs. Once you are level you go by one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. They take you to a stopping point where you meet with a tour bus that takes you on the rest of your tour. The mules are cared for by the paniolos during this time. Once that tour is complete you come back and get on the same mule. They call out the mule names instead of passenger names, so make sure you remember. Then you are going back up the trail to where you started. I am so glad I did this tour because I don't think it will be around forever. I learned so much doing the St. Damien tour and the mule ride was an added bonus! If you get the chance this is the way to go to get to Kalaupapa.

See all photos from Jenna G. for Molokai Mule Ride

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Saint Damien of Molokai Catholic Church & Parishes

“Kalaupapa is located on the Kalaupapa Peninsula on the island of Molokai, Hawaii, at the base of some of the highest sea cliffs in the world; they rise 2,000 feet (610 m) above the Pacific Ocean. In the 1870s a community to support the leper colony was established here; the legislature required people with severe cases to be quarantined on this island in the hope of preventing contagious transmission of the disease. The area has been preserved as the Kalaupapa Leprosy Settlement and National Historical Park , which takes in the entire county.

Despite the declining population, the post office is still active, [4] having a zip code of 96742. [5] “

A Brief History

90% of the world’s population has a natural immunity to Leprosy (Hansen’s Disease). Hawaiian’s did not. As a result, when exposed to this disease, it spread quickly and very little was understood about the disease and how it spread. Isolation was the answer and Kalaupapa was the ‘perfect’ place to isolate a segment of the population. Isolation for leprosy seemed like the best solution at that time, and came at a high personal price for the adults and children involved and their families.

The original leper colony was first established in Kalawao in the east side of the peninsula. It was there where Father Damien was stationed and settled in 1873. Later it was moved to the location of the current village, which was originally a Hawaiian fishing village. Brother Dutton and Mother Marianne Cope arrived within several months of Damien’s death to help and to continue his work. At its peak, about 1,200 men, women, and children were in exile in this island prison. The isolation law was enacted by King Kamehameha V and remained in effect until 1969, when it was finally repealed. Today, about fourteen former sufferers of leprosy (which is also known as Hansen’s Disease) continue to live there. The colony is now included within Kalaupapa National Historical Park .

This mandatory isolation stayed in effect until 1969 when it was to come to an end. The state legislature considered closing the facility entirely with the end of this isolation. Advocacy and intervention by interested persons persuaded policy makers to keep the facility running-which resulted in allowing the residents who chose to do so to remain there for life. The opponents to closure pointed out that, although there were no active cases of leprosy in the colony, many of the residents were physically scarred by the disease to an extent that would make their integration into mainstream society difficult if not impossible.

Sources: Wikipedia , Kalaupapa National Historic Park

Visiting Kalaupapa

Hawai’i State Law requires all visitors to secure a permit prior to entering Kalaupapa National Historical Park. Visitor permits can be secured through either Kekaula Tours LLC (Boogie Kahilihiwa-ph: 808 567-608). The trail should not be used for recreational hiking. For those flying into Kalaupapa airport, hiking the pali (cliff) trail, or riding a mule as part of the tour, permits may have been arranged in advance. Check with your transportation provider and tour company operator on the status of your permit. For guests of residents, this means submitting the proper permit application to the Board of Health Office. Persons that do not prearrange their visit to the park or who have not properly secured a permit will be denied access to the park.
Persons under 16 years of age are not permitted to visit Kalaupapa.
There are no medical facilities available in Kalaupapa Settlement. Any emergency medical response can take hours and may require a helicopter flight to O’ahu or Maui.
There are no dining or shopping facilities available in Kalaupapa Settlement. All food and sundries must be brought in and all trash taken out. Visitors on Damien Tours LLC should bring their own water and lunch. The mule ride ride concession provides lunch to its customers. Visitors flying or hiking in must bring their own lunches. Guests of residents also need to bring their own food supplies.
Photography of patient-residents and their property is strictly prohibited without their express written permission.
The 3.5 mile trail to the park is extremely steep and challenging with uneven surfaces. Rock and mudslides on the trail are common. Hiking the trail is physically demanding and careful consideration should be given to your physical fitness level before beginning the hike. Read more about trail safety here .
Overnight accommodations are available only to guests of residents.

(information from the Kalaupapa National Historic Site website)

Click edit button to change this text.

Hawaii Catholic Herald

Newspaper of the Diocese of Honolulu

Kalaupapa: How to get there today

05/15/2019 by Hawaii Catholic Herald

A tour van and its passengers, including Bishop Larry Silva at right, outside St. Philomena Church in Kalawao. (HCH photo | Anna Weaver)

By Anna Weaver Hawaii Catholic Herald

You may know about St. Damien and St. Marianne. And you may know about Kalaupapa and its Hansen’s disease settlement where they dedicated their lives to serving those forcibly sent into isolation because of their disease.

But do you know how to get to this holy and historic place?

“Many, many people dream of coming here. But few make it,” said John McBride, who co-owns Saints Damien and Marianne Cope Molokai Tours.

As of May 2019, the only way to visit Kalaupapa, the isolated peninsula on the north side of Molokai in the Hawaiian islands, is to fly there. A landslide in December 2018 took out one of the essential pedestrian bridges that allowed people to hike or ride mules up and down the steep cliffside trail that connects “topside” Molokai with the peninsula.

The path is indefinitely closed while the National Park Service, which operates Kalaupapa National Historical Park, figures out a repair. The last park service estimate was that it could be about a year until the pedestrian bridge is reinstalled and the trail reopens.

In the meantime, if you’re over 16 years old and in good health (there are no public medical facilities in Kalaupapa) you can fly in and tour the peninsula with permission. The easiest way to do that is to go with a sponsored tour company.

That’s because even if you’ve arranged your own flights to Kalaupapa, you need to be the guest of a current patient or resident in order to visit the national park.

The view of Kalawao cove and Okala, Mokapu and Huelo islands as seen from the picnic area in Kalawao. (HCH photo | Anna Weaver)

Official tour companies

The two official tour companies operating in Kalaupapa today are co-owned by two different resident-patients.

Clarence “Boogie” Kahilihiwa owns Kekaula Tours and works with Molokai Mule Ride. There aren’t any mules going to Kalaupapa right now what with the trail closure, but you can still book a flight and tour package through them. Fly in day tours cost $249 from topside and $349 from Honolulu and Kahului.

If you’re booking flights separately, the tour alone is $79 a person plus tax, which includes ground transportation and a light lunch. More information is at muleride.com or by contacting 808-567-6088 and themuleride@gmail.com .

After Damien Tours’ owner Gloria Marks retired a few years ago, one of the main ways to tour Kalaupapa ceased. In its place, Saints Damien and Marianne Cope Molokai Tours started operation in January 2019.

Mele Watanuki co-owns the company with John McBride, who also acts as the group tour guide and bus driver, and Paul Meyer, the former president of R.W. Meyer, Ltd. Topside to Kalaupapa tour prices are $329 for individuals and $310 for group bookings, which includes the flight, tour, transportation and lunch. For more information call 808-895-1673 or email molokaidaytour@hawaii.rr.com .

Kalaupapa historian Pat Boland with resident-patient Meli Watanuki. (HCH photo | Anna Weaver)

Other options

Several times a year, Bishop Larry Silva leads a Kalaupapa pilgrimage trip arranged by Seawind Tours and operated by Saints Damien and Marianne Cope Molokai Tours. There are two pilgrimages remaining in 2019, on Aug. 10 and Oct. 27, both costing $399 per person including flights, transportation, a guided tour led by the bishop and lunch. Read more about the March 2019 pilgrimage experience below.

Sacred Hearts Father Patrick Killilea, pastor of St. Francis Parish in Kalaupapa, also takes small groups of 6 or less around from time to time but not as part of an official tour company.

Make sure to check with your tour hosts about whether meals are provided during your Kalaupapa trip. Those with food allergies should bring in their own food. Tours without food provided mean you’ll need to bring in your own sustenance as there are no public restaurants or stores on the peninsula. You might also want to pack a snack and bring a reusable water bottle either way. The one small grocery store on the peninsula is for residents only.

Available flights

Mokulele Air was picked in March 2018 as the designated airline to provide essential air service to Kalaupapa. It operates regular daily flights to and from the peninsula with the average roundtrip cost of a flight from Oahu at around $120. Call 808-495-4188 for more details and current pricing or visit mokuleleairlines.com .

Got a small group that wants to go to Kalaupapa? The following charter flight companies offer private flights for between 4 to 9 people per plane to and from Kalaupapa. Some of them have flights with a stopover in Kaunakakai on topside Molokai before heading down to the peninsula. After Mokulele Airlines, Makani Kai operates the most regular flights to Kalaupapa. Call for pricing and details.

Makani Kai Air: 808-834-1111
George’s Aviation Services: 808-834-2120
Pacific Air Charters: 808-839-3559
Royal Pacific Air Charter: 808-838-7788

The March 17 bishop’s pilgrimage group poses in front of St. Marianne Cope’s gravesite at the end of their Kalaupapa peninsula tour. (HCH Photo | Anna Weaver)

The bishop’s pilgrimage

The day was clear and not too sunny when 16 people joined Bishop Larry Silva on a March 17 pilgrimage to Kalaupapa.

Among them were six non-Catholics, a few repeat visitors, and many local Catholics on their first visit to the Hansen’s disease settlement where two saints lived and died.

“I’ve wanted to come for so many years but I didn’t know how to get here,” said Marilyn Llanos, a parishioner at Immaculate Conception, Ewa Beach, who brought her daughter Louise Greencorn along with her. After seeing an ad for the bishop’s pilgrimage, Llanos finally secured herself a spot to see Kalaupapa.

That day’s pilgrimage group boarded two small Makani Kai charter planes early on the morning of St. Patrick’s Day and flew from Oahu directly to tiny Kalaupapa airport. As they prepared to touchdown on the small runway, the travelers caught a glimpse of the beautiful and isolating sea cliffs that naturally separate the peninsula from the rest of the island.

The group then boarded “the nicest vehicle in Kalaupapa and maybe the whole island,” according to tour guide John McBride, a large Mercedes-Benz passenger van purchased with the start of the new Saints Damien and Marianne Cope Molokai Tours.

Boarding the tour van (HCH Photo | Anna Weaver)

Kalaupapa historian Pat Boland helped co-lead the tour. Sisters of St. Francis of the Neumann Communities Alicia Damien Lau and Barbara Jean Wajda, who live in Kalaupapa, helped keep things running smoothly.

As the van headed off on the tour, Boland pointed out the “Welcome to Kalaupapa,” adding, “What it should really say is, ‘Take off your shoes, you’re on sacred ground.’”

Since this was the bishop’s pilgrimage, the day trip followed the Diocese of Honolulu’s “St. Damien, St. Marianne Pilgrimage Guide.” It started off with prayer at the airport and included Mass at St. Elizabeth Chapel and a prayer service at St. Philomena Church in Kalawao, one of the churches built by St. Damien, a skilled carpenter. (Kalawao is the other “district” on the Kalaupapa peninsula besides Kalaupapa town itself.)

During a brief break on the tour, McBride and his tour company co-owner Meli Watanuki sat on the front porch of Bishop Home, a former residence for girls started by Mother Marianne and the current home of Sisters Alicia Damien and Barbara Jean.

“I think our tour is unique because we try to tell the stories of the patients,” McBride said. “We want to let people know the hardships that these people had. But not just the hardships.

“I mean it’s a sad story of what happened, but I think it’s also a story of triumph. These are people that overcame a struggle that most people would have given into. They had nowhere to look but up because there was nobody else that was going to help them.”

“The events that have happened here have somehow made this place hallowed,” McBride said. “Somebody who’s sensitive spiritually will feel that this area is a little different from any place else that they’ve been.”

As he pointed out to that day’s tour group, visitors are able to come because of Meli Watanuki’s invitation. “Without her you wouldn’t be here,” he told them.

Watanuki was diagnosed with Hansen’s disease at age 18 while still living in America Samoa. She has lived in Kalaupapa since 1960, nine years prior to the lifting of the forced quarantine there for Hansen’s disease patients. She said she prayed to Sts. Damien and Marianne before starting her tour partnership with McBride and knows the two saints guide her life. She is happy to welcome visitors to Kalaupapa today, whether they come through her tour company or another group.

Inside the original section of St. Philomena Church in Kalawao, which was built by Father Damien. (HCH Photo | Anna Weaver)

The tour group also visited Papaloa Cemetery, St. Francis Church and the Kalaupapa pier. They caught a glimpse of Waihanau Valley as they bumped their way down the pothole-marked Old Damien Road to Kalawao, and had a lunch stop at the Kalawao picnic pavilion next to what Bishop Silva calls “possibly the most beautiful view in Hawaii,” the ocean overlook where massive sea cliffs loom next to the small islands of Okala, Mokapu and Huelo. The day finished with a mandatory stop at the gift store (cash only that day due to a bad internet signal) and a final prayer at the gravesite of Mother Marianne.

“Not a lot of local people come out here,” said Howard Lee, who went on the pilgrimage with his wife, Teale. He is a St. Francis Healthcare System of Hawaii board member and was making his first trip to Kalaupapa.

The Lees, who aren’t Catholic, were even more inspired by Damien and Marianne after the day trip.

Two other non-Catholic couples, one Methodist and one Episcopalian, with an interest in visiting Kalaupapa flew over from the Big Island to join the bishop’s pilgrimage.

Today there are less than 100 people living in the Kalaupapa peninsula, which has “all the gracefulness and pettiness that comes with a small town,” Boland said.

There’s a handful of churches, one store, one gas station, a medical clinic and many graveyards. Once a year a barge shipment brings much of the supplies and large purchases like vehicles and appliances that are sent to the peninsula.

The current residents include a small number of patients, national park and health department workers, the sisters and Father Killilea, and an assortment of other workers and residents.

Plus the occasional tour group.

Part of the March 17 tour group boards a Makani Kai charter flight as they depart the Kalaupapa airport. (HCH Photo | Anna Weaver)

Correction: The May 17 print edition of this story misspelled Meli Watanuki’s first name as Mele. The story listed Paul Meyer as the current president of R.W. Meyer Ltd. He is the former president of the company and current president of the Meyer family trust, Miala, Inc. Makani Kai’s correct phone number is (808) 834-1111. We regret the errors.

Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Kalaupapa Peninsula, Molokai

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Updated July 1, 2021.

For four years, ever since I read the historical novel Molokai by Alan Brennert, I’ve wanted to visit Kalaupapa for myself. I couldn’t believe I had never heard of this leper colony. I couldn’t believe people still got leprosy as recently as 150 years ago. I couldn’t believe people still get leprosy. Hawaii has fascinated me for years, but I’d never heard of Kalaupapa or the leprosy colony there.

Only 5% of people in the world can contract leprosy, and everyone else is immune. Hawaiians are genetically more susceptible to the disease—a fact that didn’t really matter for centuries since the islands are so isolated. With the introduction of migrant workers, leprosy made its way to the islands, too.

Be prepared: What to Expect Flying in a Tiny Plane

The more I learned, the more I wanted to learn. So instead of going to a high-end resort or a private island for our big 5th anniversary, my sweet husband indulged me and we spent our time on the remote, nearly untouched Hawaiian island of Molokai so we could explore this settlement for ourselves. I hope this post explains a bit about this little known piece of history, and maybe it will inspire you to visit as well!

The Kalaupapa Peninsula

King Kamehameha V chose this site for a leper colony because of its seclusion. In the past, leprosy (now often called Hansen’s Disease) was horribly misunderstood and was even thought to be a punishment for the worst of sins. In any case, it was an incurable and contagious disease. The King hoped to manage the disease and stop it from spreading through the rest of his people.

In 1866, the first leprosy victims arrived on the Peninsula. I say “victims” instead of “patients” because when they arrived there was no hospital, no help, no provisions for these people, despite being told they would receive treatment. They were literally left here to die. Often they were flung from the boats that brought them and abandoned to swim through shark-infested waters to shore.

More here: Fascinating Facts about Molokai

The first group of patients, three women and nine men, arrived January 6, 1866. They quickly realized that no one was coming to help them, and there would be no treatment for them. The natives Hawaiians already living on the Peninsula helped and cared for them, at their own risk, but eventually they were ordered to move elsewhere on the island.

Through the years, the patients formed a solid community, but not without the help of some very giving people, particularly Father Damien de Veuster and Mother Marianne Cope, now Saint Damien and Saint Marianne. At the time we visited, there were still 12 patients living at Kalaupapa, though they are no longer held there against their will.

More here: What to Know Before You Visit Molokai

There are plenty of reasons to visit Kalaupapa National Historical Park. Maybe you’re a history enthusiast. Maybe you’re checking off all the U.S. National Parks. Maybe Hawaiian history has piqued your interest. Maybe you’re a medical student or otherwise interested in medical history. Whatever your reason, it’s a good one!

Must read: 5 Things You Forgot to Pack for Hawaii

Restrictions and things to know.

I know, restrictions are not the thing you want to read about, but this is a very unique National Historical Park, and the people living here deserve the utmost respect. Please read carefully, and if you have any questions, ask the National Park Service before you go!

All visitors must be 16 years old or older. This is at the request of the remaining patients who had to give up any children they had during their time at Kalaupapa. It’s too painful for them to see children.
Every visitor must obtain a permit in advance. Permits are organized by one of two tour operators: Kekaula Mule Tours or Father Damien Tours . We never saw our permits, as the company handled everything for us!
All visitors must visit with a tour. Admission to the National Historical Park is free, but the independently-operated tours are not!
Do not take photos of the residents or their property unless you are given permission. Leprosy leaves some people with physical deformities, which they do not want photographed, and they have their right to privacy. You’re a guest on their peninsula.
No drones allowed, but regular cameras and phones are permitted. There is no cell phone service!
There are no dining, shopping, or overnight accommodations on the Kalaupapa Peninsula. Only guests of residents are allowed to stay the night. The exception is the bookstore and gift shop.
All trash brought into or created in the National Park must be taken out with you.
You will get a 16.9-ounce bottle of water with lunch on your tour, but the Peninsula gets very hot, so bring an extra, refillable bottle with you! It will not be taken from you at the airport if you choose to fly there.
Speaking of water, there are at least three restroom opportunities on the tour.
Want to volunteer? Get in touch with the National Park Service !

More here: What to Know Before You Visit the Hawaiian Islands

How to get there.

There have traditionally been three ways to visit the Kalaupapa Peninsula, but since the trail’s dramatic mudslide on December 25 , flying is currently the only option. My hope is that the trail will reopen for your visit, so I’ve included all three options below, just in case!

At the moment, flying is the only way to get in and out of Kalaupapa. We went with Kalaupapa Mule Tours , which provided us with the flights on Makani Kai Air, the tour, and a light lunch. Tours are $249 at the time of this writing. We also checked with Mokulele airlines, which was nearly twice the price!

More here: What to Expect Flying in a Tiny Plane

While we were incredibly disappointed not to hike, there is a major benefit to flying: the amazing aerial views!

More here: Hiking Hawaii: Molokai

The 3.5-mile trail can also be traversed by foot, but it’s quite steep, and that is 3.5 miles one way! Just make sure you’re up for it. You can schedule your hike with Father Damien Tours for $99 at the time of this writing. A National Park Service Park Ranger said the current plan is to reopen in early 2020. That is, of course, subject to change. I am already making plans to go back!

More here: The Ultimate List of Hiking Tips

For those who want the scenery but prefer to be along for the ride, consider taking a mule tour! Kalaupapa Mule Tours take the same trail, and the mules do this every day, so they know exactly where to step! Tours start at $209 at the time of this writing. Prices may change after the trail re-opens.

All tours are conducted by the same company when you arrive, and you will get the same meal with a picturesque view no matter which way you get there!

Keep reading: Books to Read Before Your Visit to Hawaii

Highlights of the tour.

The tour was fantastic! Our guide, Ryan, is a non-patient who lives there with his wife, who is working on artifact restoration for the National Park. He has lived there three years and was a fountain of knowledge! The tour was over four hours long, so I won’t go into every detail, but here are the highlights:

We started at the cemetery where many of the former residents are buried, but there are far more in unmarked graves around the Peninsula. We also learned that, while leprosy itself (Hansen’s disease) can cause blindness, deformities, and skin sores, it is not actually fatal. People can live long and full lives with with Hansen’s disease, and many people did—and still are. Hansen’s disease wears down its carriers’ immunity, meaning another illness can be fatal because of the disease.

Read on: Hawaii for History Lovers

Then we moved on to the volcanic crater (that may or may not be extinct!), and ended up at the best viewing spot for the opening scene of Jurrassic Park :

More here: Hawaii’s Best Adventures

The next highlight was the Kalawao settlement, where the first patients came ashore and started their life forgotten by society. Many patients over the years have made a choice: turn to God or turn away from God, the way society turned away from them. Those first 12 patients, or at least some of them, chose to build Siloama Protestant Church. Their goal was to finish the church in time for Christmas, and they made that goal on December 23, 1866, with two days to spare.

Keep reading: What to Do on Your Last Day in Hawaii

Just a few yards down the road, we visited the first church that Father Damien built, Saint Philomena Church. He built it with his own hands. He also built homes for the patients and anything else they needed. He swam through those shark-infested waters to find food for them. He got cuts and scrapes, which likely wore down his immune system over time, causing him to contract leprosy himself.

More here: What to Pack for Molokai

Later on we stopped for lunch at the only place on earth I’ve found that rivals Kauai’s Na Pali Coast in beauty: the Molokai Sea Cliffs. They are the tallest in the world, and the blanket of green over them gives them a majestic look, as if they’re not quite real.

More here: What to Do on Molokai

Upon making our way over to the current settlement, Ryan told us that Kalawao was found to be too inhospitable with heavy rains and wind that shoots tree limbs through windows, so the residents tore everything down at Kalawao and built up the newer settlement where everyone lives today. Kalaupapa Town is on the west side of the Peninsula, and where the rest of our tour took place. We visited two more churches, the home of late resident Kenso Seki, saw where the barge comes in with material essentials once a year, and refilled our water bottles with some of the cleanest water in the world—straight from the waterfalls around Kalaupapa!

Keep reading: The Ultimate Molokai Trip Planning Guide

One of the most profound and inspirational memories I will take with me after touring Kalaupapa is that so many of the patients chose to do wonderful things with their lives. Kenso traveled the world after the separation time ended in 1969. Others wrote music or poetry, some became artists, little girls made and sold lace doilies, some wrote down their stories and experiences.

The separation time from 1866-1969 was very difficult (which is an understatement) for the patients. There used to be a series of fences keeping the patients separate from their helpers, nurses, doctors, pharmacists, and even their own families who came to visit them on the peninsula. Now, there is exactly one fence, but it’s there only for symbolic purposes. One place where the separation is profoundly exemplified is in the visitation building:

More here: The Definitive Molokai Bucket List

The width of that table is as close as patients could get to non-patients. There was no physical contact allowed, whatsoever, in an effort to prevent the spread of the disease. Can you imagine never being able to hug your family or hold your loved one’s hand again?

I hope this post has shed some light on a little-known piece of human history and inspired you to visit the Peninsula for yourself. Have some thoughts or other questions? Comment below.

Want more? Check out my Hawaiian Islands Page !

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Guide to Kalaupapa National Historical Park

Kalaupapa National Historical Park , sadly, often goes overlooked by visitors to the islands. Nevertheless, the history in the area is incredibly deep, rich, and important to Hawaii. While the Kalaupapa peninsula on Molokai was turned into a prison by King Kamehameha V after Hansen’s disease (leprosy) was introduced to Hawaii in the 1800s, the significance of the land has since become multi-layered. Visitors can learn about the history of the area and the island through the park’s community, museum collections, architecture, and artifacts. Due to its initial isolation, the natural resources within the park are some of the most unique in the world, including almost 30 different threatened and endangered species and some of the highest sea cliffs on earth.

Perhaps most importantly, Kalaupapa represents the perseverance of an island nation faced with an unmitigated crisis. After the Hawaiian people were introduced to a disease that they’d never encountered and had no cure or immunities for, those afflicted were banished to the remote Kalaupapa peninsula. While the banishment was seemingly the only solution for the critical time, it came at an enormous price to the Hawaiian people .

Since 1866, more than 8,000 people have died at Kalaupapa. There are fewer than a dozen now-cured patients who have chosen to continue living at Kalaupapa. The secluded peninsula now serves as a culturally and historically significant place, where the people of Hawaii can come to contemplate and rediscover the ancestors who were lost to their families so many years ago.

Today, visitors are welcomed to Kalaupapa in the spirit of education and awareness.

After the misunderstood disease was introduced to the island and the decision was made to banish those afflicted to Molokai, some family members and friends chose to accompany their loved ones to Kalaweo Country (which encompasses Kalaupapa), providing emotional and physical support. Known fondly as “na kokua” (or “helpers”), these people were instrumental in the daily upkeep of Kalaupapa and are memorialized as such at the park. Father Damien, the most famous of the caregivers at the peninsula, was a Catholic priest who chose to live among the patients. He eventually contracted the contagious disease himself and passed away in 1889.

Read first-hand accounts by real people who were forced from their home and banished to Kalaupapa.

Getting There

There is no conventional road connecting Kalaupapa with the rest of Molokai, but instead, only a steep, narrow trail that winds through the area’s mountainous landscape.

Two major companies, Kekaula Tours and Father Damien Tours, both owned and operated by patient-residents of the island, offer tours to Kalaupapa.

Kekaula Tours has been around since 1993 and offers two different options for tours of Kalaupapa, a 3.2-mile guided mule tour down the Kalaupapa Trail and a fly-in tour from Honolulu, Hoolehua, or Kahului. Both tours include entry permits into the park, lunch, and bottled water.

Father Damien Tours offers fly in and fly out tours from Big Island, Oahu, and Maui as well as Molokai. Tours range from full island tours to tours of Kalaupapa and Ho’olehua. Father Damien also provides hiking tours that take guests along the pali cliff trail to the settlement—but note that the 3.5-mile hike is very physically demanding, involving 26 switchbacks and a 1,700-foot elevation change.

Permits and Restrictions

Access to Kalaupapa National Historical Park is strictly regulated by Hawaii law, and visitors can only obtain permits to enter through tour companies. The only exception would be if you were invited to come personally by one of the residents, and even that would require a permit application to the Board of Health Office. Any person attempting to access the park without a permit will be denied entry.

No person under the age of 16 is allowed to visit Kalaupapa, even though the tour companies. There are no medical facilities at the settlement, so any major emergencies would require a helicopter ride to Oahu or Maui. There are no overnight tours or overnight accommodations available, except to guests of residents. Only 100 visitors are allowed per day due to federal law.

While most of the tours include lunch, there are no dining or shopping facilities at Kalaupapa. That means all food must be brought in and trash subsequently taken out. Out of respect for the residents, photos of patients are absolutely prohibited without their written permission. Volunteers are also permitted to the settlement with certain restrictions.

When to Visit

Since Kalaupapa is an active, living community comprising patient-residents, members of the clergy, and state and federal employees, there are no opening or closing hours. Commercial tours (required in order for most visitors to enter Kalaupapa) run Mondays through Saturdays excluding Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, and New Years Day.

If you don’t have time for a tour, the Kalaupapa Overlook from Pala'au State Park offers a great alternative with an unobstructed (but distant) view of the settlement below.

KALAUPAPA HISTORY

The spread of leprosy disease in kalaupapa.

In 1865 the Kalaupapa peninsula on Moloka`i was chosen by the kingdom of Hawai`i as the place of exile for Hansen’s disease (also known as leprosy) patients. Its isolation, surrounded on three sides by ocean and on the fourth side by the steep 1600-foot (488m) pali (cliff), was a contributing factor in the selection of this location.

Leprosy, is believed to have spread to Hawaii from China in 1848. In early 1866, the first leprosy victims were shipped to Kalaupapa. There were no buildings, shelters nor potable water available. The first arrivals dwelled in rock enclosures, caves, and in the most rudimentary shacks, built of sticks and dried leaves.

The Board of Health expected the patients to be able to sustain themselves by living off the land however, most patients were too ill or demoralized to be self-sufficient. As stories spread of the poor conditions, many Hawaiian people hid their afflicted relatives and friends, hoping to prevent their discovery and a one-way trip to the settlement. Rather than be separated from loved ones, some healthy family members chose to go into isolation at Kalaupapa with their loved ones as a kokua, a helper.

A Catholic missionary priest from Belgium, Father Damien deVeuster, arrived at Kalaupapa in 1873. Upon his arrival he brought attention to the poor living conditons and made major improvements including building homes, churches and coffins and arranging for medical services and funding from Honolulu.

The disease was put in remission in the 1940s with the advent of sulfone drugs. The disease is no longer contagious and the patients are free to come and go as they please. However, many of them choose to stay at Kalaupapa.

By law, access is strictly regulated. You must take the tour offered by either Damien Tours of Kalaupapa or Kekaula Tours, both operated by former patients. The other way to go is to be invited as a guest by one of the residents. There are no roads to the peninsula so you must hike, ride a mule, or fly in.

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Kalaupapa is a sacred and historic settlement nestled beneath the cliffs that tower above the scenic coastline of the Island of Molokai. It is a testament to the legacies of both Saint Damien & Saint Marianne and is a living tribute to the memory of the thousands who were banished here so many years ago. Kalaupapa is only accessible to invited guests and the Damien & Marianne Catholic Conference has made special arrangements, through Molokai Tours LLC., for a limited number of visitors to experience this spiritual place.

Due to COVID-19 all tours to Kalaupapa have been suspended by the National Park Service until further notice. Continue to be safe and well everyone. Click on the link below for more information. https://www.nps.gov/kala/planyourvisit/conditions.htm

Molokai Update: Kalaupapa

Land access to Kalaupapa, the isolated peninsula Molokai, is closed. That as a result of the most recent landslide in December 2018 that removed the pedestrian and equine access to the trail.

The path is to remain closed indefinitely while the National Park Service works on its repair. Estimates from NPS was to expect the trail to reopen by early 2020.

If you still want to visit Kalaupapa, which we highly recommend, you can fly there with one of the permitted companies. Those 16 and under are prohibited.

Two tour companies operate in Kalaupapa today. Those are Kekaula Tours (day including flight are $249 from Molokai and $349 from Oahu and Maui.

Prior Damien Tours who we visited with has gone out of business and has been replaced by Saints Damien and Marianne Cope Molokai Tours, which started earlier this year.

Kalaupapa historian Pat Boland with resident-patient Meli Watanuki. (HCH photo | Anna Weaver) Other options Several times a year, Bishop Larry Silva leads a Kalaupapa pilgrimage trip arranged by Seawind Tours and operated by Saints Damien and Marianne Cope Molokai Tours. There are two pilgrimages remaining in 2019, on Aug. 10 and Oct. 27, both costing $399 per person including flights, transportation, a guided tour led by the bishop and lunch. Read more about the March 2019 pilgrimage experience below.

Sacred Hearts Father Patrick Killilea, pastor of St. Francis Parish in Kalaupapa, also takes small groups of 6 or less around from time to time but not as part of an official tour company.

Available flights Mokulele Air was picked in March 2018 as the designated airline to provide essential air service to Kalaupapa. It operates regular daily flights to and from the peninsula with the average roundtrip cost of a flight from Oahu at around $120. Call 808-495-4188 for more details and current pricing or visit mokuleleairlines.com.

Makani Kai Air: 808-834-1111 George’s Aviation Services: 808-834-2120 Pacific Air Charters: 808-839-3559 Royal Pacific Air Charter: 808-838-7788

original 2010 post:

The land route to Kalaupapa remains closed on Molokai. This means that hikers and mule riders no longer have access to where Saint Damien lived and worked. Heavy rains in April created a mudslide and damaged a foot bridge. Repair work is expected to begin in October and will take 4-5 weeks to complete.

If you want to include Kalaupapa on your Hawaii itinerary this fall, you have two fly-in options available .

The least expensive is from topside Molokai where $249 buys a round-trip, tour and permit. Lunch is not provided so bring your own food.

You can also fly from Honolulu to Kalaupapa for $389 round-trip. Included with the ground tour and permit is a courtesy transfer from your Waikiki hotel and lunch.

Snack Bar and Bookstore Remain Open at Kalaupapa .

Bring small bills if you’d like to buy anything at the settlement since credit cards are not accepted. On our visit in October we purchased a t-shirt and hat.

How to Book : Call Makani Kai Air Charters at 1-877-255-8532 or 808-834-5813 from Oahu.

Tell them you’re interested in the Mule Ride Special and coupon code 1209-M.U.L.E. Visa, Mastercard and American Express is accepted. Be prepared to give weight of each passenger, cell phone number, the hotel you’re staying at the night before, the desired tour date and one alternate.

What to do if you’re planning a trip to Molokai after November .

Read trail updates on Molokai Mule Rides . The trail will open to hikers first. It will take longer before the mule rides are back since they’ll need retraining on the trail and conditioning.

Tip : We also wrote about our experience in October hiking the Pali Trail and taking the Damien Tour . The experience is one we’ll always remember.

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3 thoughts on “molokai update: kalaupapa”.

Serene seascapes. Unspoiled coastlines. Untamed wilderness. Visit Molokai and travel back to a timeless place. This is an island that stays true to its Hawaiian traditions, tucked away from the hustle of the outside world. Where no building is taller than a coconut tree. Where there’s no traffic and no traffic lights.

Are children permitted?

Visitors Policy: You must be at least 16 years of age and be invited by a resident or have an advanced reservation with Damien Tours.

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Kalaupapa: how to get there today

The view of Kalawao cove and Okala, Mokapu and Huelo islands as seen from the picnic area in Kalawao. (HCH photo | Anna Weaver)

A tour van and its passengers, including Bishop Larry Silva at right, outside St. Philomena Church in Kalawao. (HCH photo | Anna Weaver)

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Kalaupapa: How to get there today BY HAWAII CATHOLIC HERALD 05/15/2019

By Anna Weaver Hawaii Catholic Herald You may know about St. Damien and St. Marianne. And you may know about Kalaupapa and its Hansen’s disease settlement where they dedicated their lives to serving those forcibly sent into isolation because of their disease. But do you know how to get to this holy and historic place? “Many, many people dream of coming here. But few make it,” said John McBride, who co-owns Saints Damien and Marianne Cope Molokai Tours. As of May 2019, the only way to visit Kalaupapa, the isolated peninsula on the north side of Molokai in the Hawaiian islands, is to fly there. A landslide in December 2018 took out one of the essential pedestrian bridges that allowed people to hike or ride mules up and down the steep cliffside trail that connects “topside” Molokai with the peninsula. The path is indefinitely closed while the National Park Service, which operates Kalaupapa National Historical Park, figures out a repair. The last park service estimate was that it could be about a year until the pedestrian bridge is reinstalled and the trail reopens. In the meantime, if you’re over 16 years old and in good health (there are no public medical facilities in Kalaupapa) you can fly in and tour the peninsula with permission. The easiest way to do that is to go with a sponsored tour company. That’s because even if you’ve arranged your own flights to Kalaupapa, you need to be the guest of a current patient or resident in order to visit the national park. Official tour companies The two official tour companies operating in Kalaupapa today are co-owned by two different resident-patients. Clarence “Boogie” Kahilihiwa owns Kekaula Tours and works with Molokai Mule Ride. There aren’t any mules going to Kalaupapa right now what with the trail closure, but you can still book a flight and tour package through them. Fly in day tours cost $249 from topside and $349 from Honolulu and Kahului. If you’re booking flights separately, the tour alone is $79 a person plus tax, which includes ground transportation and a light lunch. More information is at muleride.com or by contacting 808-567-6088 and [email protected]. After Damien Tours’ owner Gloria Marks retired a few years ago, one of the main ways to tour Kalaupapa ceased. In its place, Saints Damien and Marianne Cope Molokai Tours started operation in January 2019. Mele Watanuki co-owns the company with John McBride, who also acts as the group tour guide and bus driver, and Paul Meyer, the former president of R.W. Meyer, Ltd. Topside to Kalaupapa tour prices are $329 for individuals and $310 for group bookings, which includes the flight, tour, transportation and lunch. For more information call 808-895-1673 or email [email protected].

Other options Several times a year, Bishop Larry Silva leads a Kalaupapa pilgrimage trip arranged by Seawind Tours and operated by Saints Damien and Marianne Cope Molokai Tours. There are two pilgrimages remaining in 2019, on Aug. 10 and Oct. 27, both costing $399 per person including flights, transportation, a guided tour led by the bishop and lunch. Read more about the March 2019 pilgrimage experience below. Sacred Hearts Father Patrick Killilea, pastor of St. Francis Parish in Kalaupapa, also takes small groups of 6 or less around from time to time but not as part of an official tour company. Make sure to check with your tour hosts about whether meals are provided during your Kalaupapa trip. Those with food allergies should bring in their own food. Tours without food provided mean you’ll need to bring in your own sustenance as there are no public restaurants or stores on the peninsula. You might also want to pack a snack and bring a reusable water bottle either way. The one small grocery store on the peninsula is for residents only. Available flights Mokulele Air was picked in March 2018 as the designated airline to provide essential air service to Kalaupapa. It operates regular daily flights to and from the peninsula with the average roundtrip cost of a flight from Oahu at around $120. Call 808-495-4188 for more details and current pricing or visit mokuleleairlines.com. Got a small group that wants to go to Kalaupapa? The following charter flight companies offer private flights for between 4 to 9 people per plane to and from Kalaupapa. Some of them have flights with a stopover in Kaunakakai on topside Molokai before heading down to the peninsula. After Mokulele Airlines, Makani Kai operates the most regular flights to Kalaupapa. Call for pricing and details. Makani Kai Air: 808-834-1111 George’s Aviation Services: 808-834-2120 Pacific Air Charters: 808-839-3559 Royal Pacific Air Charter: 808-838-7788

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clock This article was published more than 6 years ago

The site of an 1860s leper colony on Molokai island draws determined travelers

My old mule Tita clopped straight up to the edge of the first switchback. One more step and we’d tumble down a sheer cliff, falling almost 1,600 feet to the sea. But mules are smart creatures and, at the last instant, she swiveled 120 degrees onto the next leg of the pali trail, a rugged path that zigzags down 26 switchbacks to the historic leper colony of Kalaupapa.

The isolated site is the No. 1 tourist destination on the untouristy Hawaiian island of Molokai.

I felt a little queasy on that first switchback, leaning back in the saddle, bracing in my stirrups against the pitch, thinking, “Whoa, that’s a long way down.” Luckily, bushes blocked some of the most vertigo-inducing views, and I had a mule skinner behind me strumming his ukulele and singing in that sweet Hawaiian male soprano that calms the rawest of nerves.

I gave in to the music, the moment, and the instincts of my sure-footed mount.

She was an ornery mule. “Tita” is Hawaiian for “sister,” and this old sister had attitude, stopping willy-nilly, tailgating shamelessly, and working the scary outside edge of the trail, even on hairpins. But I knew she knew her stuff. So, after that first turn, I put my reins around the saddle horn — guides call this “autopilot” — and let Tita make the calls as we plodded downhill in jerks and jolts.

Kayak the Alaskan glaciers of Blackstone Bay while they’re still here

The thumblike promontory taking shape below us — formed of flowing lava, hammered by rough seas and swept by trade winds — became the site of Hawaii’s famed leper colony that was started in the 1860s, almost eight decades before an antibiotic treatment was found to arrest the disease. It was a perfect place for banishment, segregated from the rest of the island by some of the tallest sea cliffs in the world.

Over the years, more than 8,000 exiles would die there, many disfigured, crippled and blinded by the sickness now commonly called Hansen’s disease. At its peak, the settlement had more than 1,200 residents: men, women and children. Today, only a handful remain, all in their late 70s to 90s, along with the dozens of federal and state workers who manage what is now designated the Kalaupapa National Historical Park.

Only 100 outside visitors are allowed into the park each day. They must have permits and cannot talk to the former patients, take their photos or enter their properties. No one under age 16 is allowed.

Visitors to Kalaupapa arrive by one of three ways: They take a small plane, ride the mules, or hike the pali (cliff) trail, an arduous trek for the very fit. The three-plus-mile trail is slippery in rainy conditions, is subject to rockfalls and landslides, and narrows to a few feet in some spots. National Park Service workers occasionally pluck exhausted or injured hikers off the trail, calling for mule rescue or rolling the afflicted down the hill on a special wheeled gurney to be flown to outside islands for medical care.

Mule trips pose their own risks. Riders can fall, or — if they shriek, freak or try to micromanage these heavily muscled, independent animals — can be pitched off. Which is why operators at the long-standing Kalaupapa Mule Ride take tourists’ insurance information, require them to sign waivers and stick to hard rules. It’s okay if you don’t have equestrian experience — guides will explain what to do — but you can’t be over 250 pounds or be pregnant, and you must be in good health.

I would add one more caveat: If you can’t trust an animal, don’t go.

All three ways of getting to Kalaupapa are expensive, requiring permits and prearranged tours on-site. The total for my mule trip, with taxes and fees, was $230. It was pricey, but I had to go. Locals had told me Kalaupapa was a “must-do,” a sacred place with a “special feel.” Every time I pressed for details, there were no more words. “Go. You’ll see for yourself. You’ll know.”

To prepare, I read interviews with longtime residents in the book " The Separating Sickness ." They told tales of being tracked down at home by bounty hunters who got $10 for each suspected leprosy victim reported to the Board of Health. As young children, many were yanked from school, screened and quickly sent to Kalaupapa still crying for their mothers.

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Many subjects told how they were shunned by old friends and relatives after being diagnosed and sent off to Kalaupapa. "My family hookai [rejected] me. They were sad and disappointed in me for getting this sickness." But there were also spouses and family members who demanded to come with their loved ones, regardless of risk. These were the kokua , the helpers.

I also read up on Father Damien, canonized as a saint in 2009 for his work at the colony. The hearty, handy 33-year-old Catholic priest came to the promontory’s first settlement in 1873 determined to improve the lives of the sick and save their souls for Christ, constructing for them sturdy buildings and, sometimes daily, helping build their coffins and dig their graves.

Only a small percentage of humans are susceptible to the disease, but Damien was one of them. He died in 1889, nearly blind and covered in the festering lesions that had so repelled him when he first arrived. Don’t touch the patients, he’d been told. Within months, he was eating from the same bowl with them, sharing pipes, dressing their ulcerating sores and holding communion wafers to their tongues.

I thought about all these stories as our 11-mule train neared trail’s bottom. My thighs were burning and my knees were stiff and numb as I dismounted, took in the dreamy sandy-white beach beside me, and looked up, stunned by the intimidating green cliff we’d just come down — and would be going back up. “Your joints get a workout on the way down the trail. Can you guess what’s going to get a workout on the way up?” asked our tour guide, Norman Soares. He wore a T-shirt with the image of an open Bible and the words “When all else fails . . . read the instructions.”

Before boarding the tour bus, I asked Soares about a restriction that puzzled me. Why no one under 16? His sunny face turned somber as he explained how infants born in the colony were taken away from parents immediately after birth for fear of contagion. Residents also grieved for children they’d left behind when they were first forced into quarantine. They needed no reminders. “Some patients are still dealing with that brokenness,” Soares said.

He took us to the village’s little bookstore, stocked with volumes on Kalaupapa and religious souvenirs of Father Damien and Mother Marianne Cope, also sainted for her work helping the afflicted in the early decades. We traveled east across the peninsula to Kalawao, site of the initial leper settlement. Soares pointed to a cone-shaped island offshore and described how early sea captains with boatloads of new patients would anchor there, sometimes telling already frightened passengers to jump overboard and swim for shore in rough seas.

Our last stop was St. Philomena Church, which Father Damien expanded twice to accommodate his growing flock. In front of pews, I saw the floor holes that the priest had cut. Our guide told us how patients with excessive drool would roll up big leaves into a funnel, put the narrow end into the holes, and, often through deformed lips, spit through to the ground as they listened to scripture.

In the church’s graveyard, the priest’s admirers had festooned his fenced plot with leis and necklaces of shell and bead. I looked across the other graves in the cemetery and up, past them, to the towering cliffs knifing down into the sea, some of the peaks 3,000 feet high, furrowed with lush ravines and waterfalls. I thought about how, so visibly walled off from the world, homesick, ill, often shunned and forgotten, these exiles and thousands more buried on Kalaupapa made a life for themselves, creating a community that bonded together, celebrated together, married, buried and mourned together. “In Kalaupapa,” said one resident interviewed in “The Separating Sickness,” “we are all in the same boat; we help one another.”

The mule ride up seemed easier on us, harder on the mules. Tita’s sides were heaving halfway up. I could feel her heavy heartbeat through my thighs. And our Kalaupapa tour guide was right. My bottom was seriously saddle sore by the time we reached “topside” Molokai.

I took my tired body to a masseur the next day, and he used some swift Hawaiian Lomi-Lomi moves to “pull up the bad energy from the sore spots and whoosh it away.” As he whooshed, I thought about another kind of ache, the one I’d experienced the day before in Kalaupapa.

It was a strange sensation: a burning of heart, a tug of throat. I realized that it was that “special feeling” locals had described — a spell cast by a place of so much sorrow, so much compassion, so much courage and such staggering beauty. “Go,” said the locals. “You’ll see for yourself. You’ll know.”

I had. I knew.

Lyke is a writer based in Washington state. Her website is marylynnlyke.com .

Where to stay

Hotel Molokai

1300 Kamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai

808-553-5347

hotelmolokai.com

Modeled after a traditional Polynesian village, the island’s main hotel is close to Molokai’s small downtown in Kaunakakai. Rates are generally $169-$259.

Where to eat

Kualapuu Cookhouse

102 Farrington Ave., Kualapuu

808-567-9655

bit.ly/KualapuuCookhouse

A locals’ favorite, with yummy casual Hawaiian plates such as teriyaki, stir-fry, lemon chicken, grilled mahi mahi, ribs and stuffed shrimp. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner most days. Breakfast plates $2-$18, lunch $5-17 and dinner $5-$37. As for the service, “If you’re in a hurry, you’re on the wrong island,” the menu says. Cash only.

Kanemitsu’s Bakery and Coffee Shop

79 Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai

808-553-5855

bit.ly/KanemitsusBakery

A popular island hangout with fresh-baked breads and pastries. Around 7:30 p.m. most weeknights and 7 p.m. weekends, locals head down a small adjoining lane to the bakery’s back door to buy hot loaves of bread ($8-$10.25) filled with strawberry, cinnamon, blueberry, cream cheese and butter flavorings. They are traditionally eaten in one sitting

The Kalaupapa National Historical Park and guided mule tour

Highway 470, Mile Marker 5, Kualapuu

808-567-6088

muleride.com

Make mule-trip reservations well in advance and call close to your expedition: Trips are subject to weather and other conditions affecting trail safety. Cost is $230 per person, including taxes and fees. Fee includes a sandwich lunch, a guided bus tour with Kekaula Tours and permits. If you plan to hike, you can also book that through the mule operators. Cost of hike, with permit, sack lunch and guided bus tour is $87, with taxes and fees, and you must be 16 or older. Make sure you’re in shape for a steep, rugged, six-plus-mile round-trip trek. Take plenty of water and snacks.

Damien Tours

P.O. Box 6, Kalaupapa National Historical Park

808-567-6171

damientoursllc.com

Hikers and fly-ins can book directly with Damien Tours for an immersive tour of Kalaupapa operated by patient-residents inside the village. Cost of the permit and guided van tour is $60, and you must be 16 or older. Bring your own lunch. Cash or check only.

Palaau State Park

Highway 47, Ho’olehua

808-984-8109

bit.ly/PalaauStatePark

If you don’t want to hike, fly or ride the mules into Kalaupapa, you can take this quick stroll on a handicap-accessible path to a well-signed overlook. You’ll gaze down some 1,600 feet onto the promontory selected to be a leper colony in the 1860s. Best to go on a clear day. Nearby, across the parking lot, is the short trail to Molokai’s famous Phallic Rock.

Molokai Museum and Cultural Center

1795 Kalae Hwy, Ho’olehua

808-567-6436

The small museum has a fine collection of photos of the Kalaupapa settlement and its residents over the years. There is also a nicely restored pioneer sugar mill on site. The gift shop has interesting local items. Entry is $5. Open 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday through Saturday.

Information

nps.gov/kala/planyourvisit

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COMMENTS

Kalaupapa Tours Remain Shut Down 4 Years After Pandemic Closure
Those rules have since been rescinded, but public tours of the park remain closed. (Brittany Lyte/Civil Beat/2023) Four years after the Covid-19 pandemic shuttered tours of Kalaupapa National ...
Molokai Mule Ride
The mule does know what it's doing, but the poor beast has to walk down a 1780' elevation, that includes hundreds of STEPS, and back up again. The ride on the mule, down these steps, is the most jarring ride imaginable. It's like being slammed up and down and around in the saddle.
MOLOKAI MULE RIDE
31 reviews and 33 photos of MOLOKAI MULE RIDE "Disclaimer: I didn't ride the mule, I hiked (unfortunately). You have the choice, to ride or hike. Mules are super sturdy, move up and down the mountain pretty quickly. Receive a quick session on how to be a "mule rider." Mule riders have guides on the trail with them, hikers are on their own.
Kalaupapa
Visitor permits can be secured through either Kekaula Tours LLC (Boogie Kahilihiwa-ph: 808 567-608). The trail should not be used for recreational hiking. For those flying into Kalaupapa airport, hiking the pali (cliff) trail, or riding a mule as part of the tour, permits may have been arranged in advance. Check with your transportation ...
Guided Tours
The general public visitor will be able to experience Kalaupapa when a National Park Service (NPS) authorized interpretive tour resumes operations. These tours ensure the park can meet its purpose by protecting patient-residents' privacy and protecting and interpreting cultural and natural features. Tour participants are issued a Hawaii ...
Hiking in Hawaii: St. Damien's Kalaupapa Peninsula on Molokai
Kekaula Tours LLC. can arrange and sponsor permits for their clients on a fly-in, mule ride or a hike-in package. Please check their website: www.muleride.com or by phone: 808-567-6088. Saint Damien & Mother Marianne Cope Molokai Tours LLC can also arrange and sponsor permits for their clients on a fly-in or hike-in package. Please contact by ...
Kalaupapa: How to get there today
The two official tour companies operating in Kalaupapa today are co-owned by two different resident-patients. Clarence "Boogie" Kahilihiwa owns Kekaula Tours and works with Molokai Mule Ride. There aren't any mules going to Kalaupapa right now what with the trail closure, but you can still book a flight and tour package through them.
How To Visit the Beautiful Molokai Leper Colony in Kalaupapa, Hawaii
Kekaula Tours LLC / associated with the Mule Ride can arrange and sponsor permits for their clients on a fly-in, mule ride, or Kalaupapa hike package. Please check their website: www.muleride.com or by phone: 808-567-6088. Saint Damien & Mother Marianne Cope Molokai Tours, LLC. can also arrange and sponsor permits for their clients on a fly-in ...
Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Kalaupapa Peninsula, Molokai
Every visitor must obtain a permit in advance. Permits are organized by one of two tour operators: Kekaula Mule Tours or Father Damien Tours. We never saw our permits, as the company handled everything for us! All visitors must visit with a tour. Admission to the National Historical Park is free, but the independently-operated tours are not!
Guide to Kalaupapa National Historical Park
Kekaula Tours has been around since 1993 and offers two different options for tours of Kalaupapa, a 3.2-mile guided mule tour down the Kalaupapa Trail and a fly-in tour from Honolulu, Hoolehua, or Kahului. Both tours include entry permits into the park, lunch, and bottled water. Father Damien Tours offers fly in and fly out tours from Big ...
The History of Kalaupapa, Molokai
You must take the tour offered by either Damien Tours of Kalaupapa or Kekaula Tours, both operated by former patients. The other way to go is to be invited as a guest by one of the residents. There are no roads to the peninsula so you must hike, ride a mule, or fly in. CONTACT INFO. 808-633-8700
Kalaupapa Tours
Damien and Marianne Catholic Conference Hawaii. P.O. Box 30625 Honolulu, HI 96820. PHONE: 808-585-3422; FAX: 808-625-5680; EMAIL: [email protected]
Kalaupapa Leper Colony Tour
16 helpful votes. Kalaupapa Leper Colony Tour. 4 years ago. Save. Hi, We are going to spend a week on Molokai in February. We have read about the leper colony and understand the mule trail is closed due to a mud slide. I have been reading reviews and trying to get through to a couple of the tour agencies that are licensed to do the tours.
Molokai Update: Kalaupapa
Two tour companies operate in Kalaupapa today. Those are Kekaula Tours (day including flight are $249 from Molokai and $349 from Oahu and Maui. Prior Damien Tours who we visited with has gone out of business and has been replaced by Saints Damien and Marianne Cope Molokai Tours, which started earlier this year.
Visit
Fly in day tours cost $249 from topside and $349 from Honolulu and Kahului.If you're booking flights separately, the tour alone is $79 a person plus tax, which includes ground transportation and a light lunch. More information is at muleride.com or by contacting 808-567-6088 and [email protected] Damien Tours' owner Gloria Marks ...
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Basic Information
Permits and Entering. Hawaiʻi State Law requires all visitors to secure a permit prior to entering Kalaupapa National Historical Park. In the past, visitors were able to optain permits by booking a reservation with a guided tour company. Park staff are working closely with the Hawaii State Department of Health staff to welcome a limited number ...
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KEKAULA TOURS LLC :: Hawaii (US) :: OpenCorporates
P O BOX 200, KUALAPUU, Hawaii, 96757. * While we strive to keep this information correct and up-to-date, it is not the primary source, and the company registry ( see source, above) should always be referred to for definitive information. Data on this page last changed February 29 2024. Free and open company data on Hawaii (US) company KEKAULA ...
The site of an 1860s leper colony on Molokai island draws determined
Fee includes a sandwich lunch, a guided bus tour with Kekaula Tours and permits. If you plan to hike, you can also book that through the mule operators. Cost of hike, with permit, sack lunch and ...
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