travel trailer heater not working

11 Most common RV Furnace problems and how to fix them

• BEGINNERS GUIDE

G. Yoganand

Rv furnace problems are very common and finding a solution to that problem is easy if you troubleshoot it step by step. In this article, we will see common RV furnace issues and how to get them resolved.

A preventive maintenance can really help in keeping the furnace in good working condition. A newly installed furnace can also face issues in which case its easy to get it replaced under warranty.

A working of furnace will vary depending on the type and model. In most cases, its a standard functioning though. Lets check out the furnace problems and how to fix them.

1. RV furnace Is Not Igniting

This is a common problem with furnaces in RV. When the temperature is going down, its snowing and everything is freezing, you don’t want your furnace to have this issue. Lets check how to troubleshoot this problem.

Issue With Propane Tank Gas Lines

It will be possible to diagnose any malfunctioning on the part of the propane gas or tank lines by assessing whether any gas is obtainable.

This can be done by setting a 2-way refrigerator to the propane, turning on the propane range which works internally, or igniting other appliances running out the identical gas line.

In case it does work, you can be certain that the propane tank is not responsible for this. In case no evidence of any gas is found within the system, it will be imperative to check the system thoroughly beginning with the tank.

Tackling an issue with gas lines or a propane tank

During winter, the metal is going to contract, and therefore, it is possible for a propane coupler to become loose.

Make it a point to verify that everything is quite tight. In case there would have been any leakage in the internal line which is running via the RV, you could be getting rotten egg smells.

In case, there is any leakage on the mainline, you will find it difficult to identify it simply by smelling. If feasible, let your hand run along the line while trying to feel any areas which have been either damaged or cracked.

Ensure to verify what exactly the propane line is going to enter inside the body of the camper. On some occasions, the gaskets might wear on a hose leading to a minor leakage.

It might be possible for you to use duct tape for wrapping a small leakage. Although it might work, it will not be able to fix the problem permanently.

Ignition Failure

On the majority of the RV propane furnaces, the igniter requires a minimum of 10.5 V for firing properly.

In case a couple of the onboard batteries has become compromised or have run quite low, there might not be enough spark for operating the thermostat or igniting the system.

At times, it is all about the tripping of the circuit breaker. Consequently, the panel should be checked for making certain that every single breaker for the thermostat and the furnace is switched on.

Next, let us see some more common RV furnace issues and how to fix them.

Failure of electricity within the propane system

If it is possible, try to use a backup battery which is able to produce in excess of 10 V.

Being disparate, you might be using the 12 V battery from the tow vehicle or the motorhome although this will be your “Last Ditch” effort. You never like to end up with a dead battery in the long run.

A wiring issue might not allow the electricity to ignite the surface

In case the onboard batteries indicate that they are supplying adequate power to the device, then you can test to see if the issue is due to a broken or loose wire. While monitoring wires this needs a careful approach.

Starting at the furnace itself could be helpful. Verify repeatedly all the connections as well as wires in it. On some occasions, the vibration caused by driving can cause a wire to become loose, or a connector might even fall out.

A wire may even get overloaded or it might also damage the protective coating.

Figuring out whether it is an issue caused by electricity

On the majority of the RV propane furnaces, the igniter typically requires a minimum of 10.5 Volts for firing properly. If a couple of the onboard batteries have run critically low or is corrupted, there might not be enough fuel for the device to ignite or the thermostat to function.

Occasionally, it’s just an issue of tripping a circuit breaker. Consequently, test the panel to guarantee that the furnace and thermostat breakers happen to be “On”.

An onboard battery which is dead or low

A simple multimeter test will inform you of the number of volts the furnace is equipped with. In case it is less at 10 V then one of the onboard batteries is likely to be the issue.

Without adequate electricity being supplied to the furnace or the thermostat, it might not be able to fire, and the fan may or may not work at all.

Consider swapping to a backup battery which can generate in excess of 10 Volts, if feasible. You may be capable of using the 12 Volt battery from the tow vehicle or motorhome in a moment of panic; however, it’s a kind of “Last Ditch” matter. You’d never like to end up with a dead battery as well.

Corrosion of the battery

Look closely at the connectors and the battery terminals. Electrolytic corrosion might lead to the development of a gray, white, or greenish material on a terminal over time.

Left unattended it can prevent the furnace system from getting electricity. A quick cleaning is often all that is required for re-establishing an effectual connection.

Corroded battery terminals

Cleaning them properly can help solve this problem. Lets see the steps we need to follow for this.

• Prepare a slurry blend of water and baking soda.
• Disconnect carefully the wires and the connections from the terminal which is corroded.
• Make use of a toothbrush for applying the baking soda mixture and scrub the corroded material carefully.
• Wipe the baking soda off comprehensively by making use of a clean paper towel.
• After reconnecting the cables to the terminal, verify to ensure that the internal lights of the RV, the furnace, and the thermostat are receiving power.

A problem with wiring might not allow electricity to ignite the furnace

In case the onboard batteries indicate that they supply adequate power to the device, then you can test to see if the issue is due to a broken or loose wire. This needs a careful approach while monitoring wires.

It might be a good idea to begin at the furnace on its own. Check repeatedly all the connections as well as wires. At times the vibration caused by driving can cause a wire to become loose, or a connector might even fall out.

A wire might even get overloaded or the protective layer can become damaged.

A Faulty Wire

In case the situation is not improved by this, it will be imperative for you to verify for any loose connection or cables between the ignition system of the furnace and the battery.

At times even anything as basic as the corrosion of the terminal of the battery will impede the efficient distribution of the required electricity.

In case a connection or cable becomes loose, it will be imperative on your part to make it tight or perhaps strip, clip, and protect it using a wire nut. A broken cable might be required to be spliced, patched, or even replaced whatsoever.

In case the battery terminals become corroded, it might be possible to get the required power from the connection by cleaning them using a mixture of baking soda and water and then using an old toothbrush for scrubbing it.

Damaged section of the cable

Lets see the steps to replace a cable.

• Snip out the section which has been damaged by making use of a wire cutter.
• Cautiously strip one inch of protective layer back on the two exposed wire sections.
• Take a fresh piece of wire which is similar to or perhaps thicker gauge and then strip the protective layer at each end by 1 inch.
• Braid together the ends of the cable which are exposed. Following this, they can be soldered and wrapped using electrical tape or you can even twist them safely within a wire nut.

Thermostat Issue

The “brain” of the cooling and heating system is actually the thermostat. Although they are intended to last a long time, burning out or making a part to malfunction is not unheard of.

In the majority of these cases, it will be imperative for the entire unit to be replaced given that the sensor is going to die.

Nevertheless, on some occasions, something such as a dead battery or a loose cable might result in the malfunctioning of the thermostat. Once this takes place, the message for igniting the furnace will not be sent and no gas will be delivered by the safety systems within the furnace.

Loose Cable On The Thermostat

In case the thermostat has got a digital display panel which is blinking, it might be because of a loose cable.

You have to remove the cable from the wall carefully for checking this. Some are fixed by small screws that might fall out and you might need to make them tight once again.

Verifying and replacing thermostat batteries

The thermostat is not connected to the onboard batteries in some RVs. These units are usually powered by AA batteries.

In the majority of these cases, the display screen is going to blink or it might also provide you with a blank screen. In such cases, replacing the batteries will be a sensible idea. While doing this verify whether the connections are corroded.

Following this, switch on the thermostat and allow it to reset the internal program. In case it is a problem related to low battery, the thermostat will begin to function normally while the furnace should be firing once again.

2. RV Furnace makes noise

Any of your RV appliances making noise is disturbing. Most of the times it will not be your furnace but its the furnace then be sure something is right with it. Turning it off is definitely an option but it wont fix the problem when you want it next time.

To get to the root cause the type of noise is an important thing to notice. The first thing that we do is to make sure clean it. Regular maintenance specially at the end of the summer season is what normal we follow.

Even small dirt or debris can cause the obstruction in the furnace which can lead to reduced efficiency and noise.

Make sure you are cleaning all the accessible parts or components to keep it running smoothly. Make use of wire brush to clean the dust over its components.

Wippign off fan balds during the maintenance is also recommended. Vaccum all the possibel areas isnide. Cleanig is definaetly a way to maintain the furnace but it may not immedietly reduce the nosie.

Other cause here could be loosen screws or other hardware. Make sure all the screws are tight enough and anything hat is lose is tightened. Other things to look at include duct inspection and repairs, cleaning the fan, and checking on igniter lines.

3. Reduced air flow

This can be due to distribution hose becoming loose or detaching from the connection. The ducts can be long enough and there could be some form of obstruction that’s causing the low air flow. Removing the excess duct can be one solution if you encounter the problem initially.

See if there is adjustable flow in case if your furnace. If its there then do check and adjust it accordingly.

The fan or the blower in furnace could have become old resulting in low air flow. Or it could have become weak due either due to more use or obviously due to quality. One of our friends travel trailer Dometic furnace had this issue but they couldn’t get it fixed. It was later replaced by the company.

4. RV Furnace Keep Cycling On And Off

Furnaces are designed to make sure they are turned off once the temperature is reached. Later if the temperature falls it would again turn itself on to get the thermostat set temperature.

If the furnace keeps cycling on and off despite the temperature meeting then there is some problem with the furnace functioning. This can be caused if the furnace vents are blocked.

Check for the furnace box, see if there is anything that is blocking the furnace vents. Any obstruction in the vents will result in malfunctioning and heating of the furnace.

This will lead the temperature limiting switch to turn off the furnace. Vents can blocked due to various things, debris dust can also block it. Make sure you are doing preventive maintenance as per schedule.

5. RV furnace keeps tripping reset button

This is common issue with new purchases. We have seen this happening when the furnace reset button would trips suddenly. If the furnaces was installed recently check with the company support.

They should come and have a check. The most common reason why this would happen is again the heating problem. The duct would be blocked or is long enough.

The vent could be collapsed or here could be issue with the circuit board. Many a times the furnaces come with such issues, the companies guys know that and they would see if it get through. You would get the replacement if the issue isn’t resolved.

6. RV furnace does not stay lit

This is the ultimate result of other issues that can be with the whole furnace system in your RV.

It can happen when you have a bad thermostat. Make sure the thermostat is is fine working condition. A low propane pressure at the furnace ca also result in furnace not lighting.

7. RV furnace keeps turning off

This could be an issue with the limit switch. Most common story with many goes like this, initially the furnace would turn on, go on till the temperature are met according to the thermostat.

Then turn off the furnace and later as the temperature falls it could not turn on again. This happens if the furnace is in locked out sate.

The issue could be with the control board which wouldn’t respond to the lighting signal.

In most cases the control board need to be replaced. If you are in warranty then the company would replace it. We have seen such a issue with our suburban furnace last year.

8. Furnace shuts off after 30 seconds

This again is seen by many new RV furnace buyers. A couple friend of ours had this issue with their Atwood furnace where in the furnace would turn on and then shut of in like 20-30 seconds. And this was happening every-time.

The problem in this case is with the blocked vents of the furnace. The temperature limiting switch shuts off the burner when high temperature are reached. In this case it happens very fast.

For this make sure the vents are cleared and there is no blockage. The air flow could be limited due t the obstruction. There could also be possibility of having a bad temperature limiting switch.

If even after clearing the vents the issue is not resolved then do check with the company or technician.

9. Furnace turns on but no heat

This issue or if the furnace is blowing cold air could be due to the circuit board issue or the limit switch issue. As a first step you may want to clean the combustion area. Clean all the debris or spiders.

See of the cleaning dies the trick. If it does not then take help from the technician. n mist cases its the circuit board. A bad propane tank regulator can also result in this issue.

The internal furnace switch wont let the furnace ignite resulting in less heat. So, you will have the fan running but thee wont be any heat or less heat.

10. RV furnace clicks but won’t start

The furnace may make a click sound but it wont start. This happens when the spark igniter try’s to ignite the pilot light but fails. This is nothing but a ignition system failure.

This has to be fixed and its a good idea to take technical help here. If the furnace is in warranty then you will get it replaced. But, normally the furnace would be too old when this problem occurs unless its a manufacturer fault.

11. RV furnace cycles on and off

This could be the result of blocked vents on the furnace or any other obstruction caused. Either ways make sure you take it on priority as otherwise it can result in heating problems.

This can also cause carbon monoxide generation. The exhaust on the furnace can be blocked by various things. Makes sure you clear it out and make sway for air flow.

The RV thermostat itself could have gone bad resulting in control cycling on and off. If its the thermostat then you can get it replaced, they are less costly to replace.

In Conclusion

Riving in winter is fun and adventurer but a malfunctioning furnace will make it worse. You definitely don’t want to be there in the middle with a non working furnace. Keeping yourself warm is keeping yourself comfortable.

Do take out some time after the summer season to do the basic preventive maintenance. If you have installed a new furnace then try it out multiple items before heading for a camping trip with heavy snow and chilling cold.

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RV Furnace has no heat? RV Furnace Troubleshooting Guide

When you are out trying to enjoy a vacation in your RV, the last thing you need is for the heater to stop working. A furnace that won’t function in an RV can turn the whole RV into a portable refrigerator and have you bundling to stay warm. You won’t be able to fully enjoy your vacation if you are shivering and trying to stay warm. This article will help you to identify the problem with your RV furnace and aid you in trying to get it fixed. Ultimately, you may need a professional to work on your RV furnace, but there are steps you can take to try to DIY which will save you time and money and get you warmer, faster!

RV Furnace has no heat? Heres what to do: If your fan on your furnace is running but you have no heat, first check the fuses, breakers, battery voltage, propane tank and regulator, burner pilot light or ignitor, as well as the thermostat to make sure it is sending the heat signal.

How Does An RV Furnace Work?

An RV Furnace works off of the propane tank that fuels other functions on your RV. There will be a thermostat on the inside wall of your RV that has an on button and a dial or gauge for how warm you want to make the temperature inside the RV.

When you raise the temperature gauge, the inducer fan in the furnace will turn on. The fan takes about half a minute to run prior to lighting via a pilot light or ignitor, so the stall from the burner firing up is normal. After another half minute or so after the burners are fired, the blower motor will blow and start to circulate warm air around the RV or trailer. The burner may turn on and off while the fan is on, which is normal if the thermostat measures the set temperature.

Once the camper is up to temperature, the flame will go out and the blower motor will continue blowing for a minute or two to get the last remaining bit of heat out of the heating coils and the fan will shut off.

What Are Some Of The Common Problems With An RV Furnace?

An RV furnace that doesn’t work is a big pain, but most likely there is an easy fix for this problem. However, you have to know how to diagnose where the problem is coming from. There are several tell-tale problems that should allow you to diagnose the cause of the RV furnace not working. With the identification of a certain problem with the furnace, you can usually figure out what is needed to make the furnace start working again.

If you are experiencing a furnace that won’t heat up, but clicks, a fan that is blowing but with no heat coming out, or even a furnace that is silent and seems dead, don’t worry! There may be life still left in your furnace. All you need to do is properly diagnose the problem and follow the steps in repairing or cleaning the furnace so that you can get back to warm and comfortable traveling.

The following list is the most common RV furnace problems and how to fix them so that you can get the heat going again and stay warm.

The Order To Check The Problems Of An RV Furnace

Checking the problems for an RV furnace should follow an order to make sure that you are covering all of your bases from easiest and the most likely problem to the harder, less likely problems.

First of all, check the power supply. There should be twelve volts coming from the battery. Secondly, check the fuse. If they are blown replace them. If they are thrown, turn them back. Checking the propane is next. It might be the regulator or even the tubing. Finally, if all else fails, start to check the furnace and thermostat components such as the thermocouple and heat anticipator. If all of these options are exhausted, call a repair person to come out and make a service call.

Problem #1: Out of Propane

The first thing to check is to make sure you have propane. If you are low or simply out of propane, your furnace in your RV will not light. It will give all of the indications that it will, but at the end of the day, nothing will fire.

This will also happen if you have ran out of propane or not used it for a while. It may take 1-2 cycles of trying to light your furnace to actually start to fire to get the gas pipe full of gas again and air purged.

Always make sure to check to see if you have propane as your first option.

Problem #2: The Burner Will Not Light

You will know that the burner is not lighting on your RV furnace if you look into the device and cannot see the flame or a lack of sound is a sign. The burners typically sound like a jet from the exhaust port so you will know if it is not lit.

Most RV furnaces these days actually don’t have a pilot light, but a direct spark ignition (DSI for short). This is a part that creates a spark in order to light the incoming fuel. You will want to check to see if your DSI is working properly.

A way to test this is to turn on the furnace and look for the sparking or listen for the clicking from the ignition. If you see the sparking of the ignitor and do not see the flame ignite or it ignites for a short period of time, this is a problem. The most common reasons for the furnace not lighting, are the thermocouple position or a bad propane tank regulator.

The Thermocouple

The thermocouple AKA flame sensor is a bi-metal sensor that changes electrical resistance in the presence of heat. The control system recognizes the resistance and makes sure there is a flame keeping the gas valve open. If there is no flame detected, the gas valve will close and the flame will turn off. A faulty thermocouple will turn the flame off every time as it does not sense it even though it may be on.

If this is happening, your thermocouple may not be bad it may just not be sensing correctly. You want the thermocouple to be clean, so take fine-grit sandpaper and sand any soot that may be burned on it causing false readings before turning the furnace on.

If cleaning doesn’t solve the problem, you may have a bad thermocouple.  This is a relatively inexpensive fix. Instead of testing to see if you need a new one, it may just be less trouble to buy and replace. Here is an example of a universal thermocouple that may fit your RV furnace. 

Bad Propane Tank Regulator

The problem with your RV furnace may have nothing to do with the furnace components at all. You may want to check the propane regulator to see if it has gone bad. A bad propane regulator will not send enough fuel to your furnace and it won’t light correctly.

One way to check for a lousy propane regulator in an RV is to light up the gas stove. If the burners have flames that change colors, this is a good indication that the propane regulator is working. The fire should be consistent blue and not switch to yellow or red consistently. It is a great idea to have a backup propane tank regulator and hose if you will be doing a lot of cold weather or off-grid camping since much of the RV functions off of propane gas.

Problem #3: Furnace Only Blows Cold Air

If you can feel the furnace fan turn on, but the air that comes out is cold there are several solutions to get the hot air of the furnace working again. Some problems that you could identify are having a lack of airflow to the furnace or, again, a bad propane tank valve.

Lack Of Airflow

Inside of the RV furnace is an internal switch called the sail switch that registers how much airflow there is. This switch is either open or closed and doesn’t sense a variable amount of airflow. If there is a lack of airflow, the switch won’t allow the furnace to light up. So, the fan will run, but the gas valve will not open and it will not make a clicking sound to ignite.

Sail switches are installed to protect your burners from overheating. If you did not have sufficient airflow, you could overheat your burner and crack your heat exchanger causing permanent damage. These switches are cheap and are can malfunction or go bad.

If this is happening, check to make sure your vents for either return or supply air are not blocked allowing your fan to blow sufficient air.

Clicking Sound But Furnace Doesn’t Ignite

If the ignitor is working in the furnace, the problem does not probably lie in the lack of airflow. Instead, the lack of gas reaching the ignitor could be the issue. You may want to check the propane valve to see if it has gone bad. Also, the thermocouple could also be positioned so that the spark is not reaching the gas coming from the valve.

The factory manual for your furnace will show you the proper gap for your spark to provide the best spark for ignition. Think of a DSI (direct spark ignition) as a big spark plug. Also if the unit was jarred from rough roads, you may need to reposition.

Problem #4: The Fan Does Not Blow Air And There Is No Heat

If there is no fan noise coming from your RV furnace, it may be dead because of a lack of power. However, you won’t have much to go on since there aren’t any components working on the furnace for you to diagnose. You will need to check the battery, check the circuit breaker, and check the fuse for the fan.

There is also a time limit on most furnaces that it will not fire for a predetermined amount of time to avoid short-cycling. This may be a period of 5 minutes, so if you just had it on and now it’s not firing, wait and try it.

Check The Battery

We’ve all done it. The battery on the RV is dead, and now nothing works. However, there may still be enough power to the RV for lighting or other items yet not enough juice for the furnace. If you can check the battery power, see if it has 12 volts coming from it. If it does, the problem is elsewhere.

Check The Circuit Breaker

The next thing you want to check is the circuit breaker. If you tripped the circuit breaker, all you have to do is go to the power panel and reset the circuit.

Check The Fan Fuse

The last thing you may want to check if the battery has juice and the circuit is fine is the fuse for the fan. You should always have replacement fuses for all of the electronics in your RV ready to go as we mention in our article on the top tools to bring in your RV . Simply pop out the blown fuse, which will probably be darker in color or burnt looking, and insert the new fuse. This should fix the problem.

Problem #5: The Fan Will Not Turn On and it was Just Working or it is not Heating to the Proper Degree

If the fan doesn’t turn on, there is possibly a problem with the thermostat. Check the battery is supplying 12 volts first. Then, check to see if you shorted or blew a fuse. If all the electricity components are properly working, you will need to check the thermostat.

What Is The Heat Anticipator?

The thermostat has a precision components in it called a heat anticipator . Basically, the anticipator allows the thermostat to be more or less sensitive. If the temperature of your RV space is around the set degree, it will shut the furnace off.

By changing your anticipator, you change the time in which the furnace will turn back on. If you have your anticipator set to low, it will turn your furnace on and off whenever the temperature of the RV changes by only a small amount would damage the furnace.

How To Check And Adjust The Heat Anticipator On An RV Thermostat?

If you have an analog thermostat, there is manual settings to change. If you have a digital thermostat, you should be able to change within your thermostat’s programming.

On an analog thermostat, the heat anticipator is located under the outer cover and is a metal disk in the thermostat. You have to remove the cover plate of the thermostat to access the heat anticipator. A sliding contact will run over a wire to change the settings.

On the wheel you will see a pointer of some kind that has a little opening in it. This opening reveals the exact setting in amps. It is these amp readings on a silver colored scale that you need to adjust. Read on to find out how.

Adjusting The Heat Anticipator Scale For An RV Thermostat

The average anticipator scale typically ranges from .10 to 1.2 amps. By tuning the heat anticipator to a higher or lower amperage you are setting the thermostat to be more or less sensitive to heat. You will want to consult your manual for your exact settings.

The lower numbers on the amp scale will make it so that the heat will run for a shorter time. This is because it takes less heat in the room for the heat anticipator to tell the furnace to shut off.

Moving the pointer to higher numbers on the scale will make it so that the heat is run for a longer time. This is because it will take more heat in the room for the heat anticipator to tell the furnace to shut off.

Moving the heat anticipator scale should not be messed with unless it is the last resort. Only if this is the last option should you change what the installer set the scale at when the furnace was originally installed.

The design of an RV is not great for cold weather. You are basically in a shell like a refrigerator, so the heat that you build up in the RV goes away quickly. If you are in cold weather, you need to have a heater that works to keep you comfortable and safe during your getaway or vacation.

Remember to always have manuals as well as parts for your equipment before you leave for a trip so that you can do small repairs on vital equipment, like your furnace, while on the road. These replacement parts include fuses, propane tank hookups, and actual parts like the thermocouple.

If you follow these steps to check the symptoms and diagnose your RV furnace, you should be able to make the repair yourself. If you cannot fix the furnace on your own, you will have to make a call to a licensed repair person to come out to your RV and make a service call. Good luck getting warm again!

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RV Furnace Not Working? (Troubleshooting & Common Problems)

When traveling in your RV, it’s important to have a working heater. Unfortunately, it’s usually on a cold night when we find ourselves asking why is my furnace not working in my RV?

As a general rule, RV furnaces usually stop working because of insufficient battery voltage or dirty air filters. So check the air filters, and ensure shore power or a generator is providing power. Or if boondocking, ensure the batteries are charged and the inverter is on. 

There are a couple of other reasons why your RV furnace is not functioning as it should and having a general idea of how your RV furnace works will make troubleshooting issues much easier.

In this article, we’re diving deep into RV furnaces. We’ll talk about how RV furnaces work and troubleshoot common problems, like blowing cold air, how to light it, and how to test it.

RVs are great, but there’s always something new to learn, even for the most experienced RV owners.

Table of Contents:

How does an rv furnace work, why is my furnace in my camper blowing cold air, how do i test or reset my rv furnace, what are rv furnace diagnostic codes, will my rv furnace work without a battery, does my rv furnace have a pilot light, rv propane furnace troubleshooting tips, why does my rv furnace start heating but stop before it reaches the set point, do rv furnaces have a reset button.

An RV thermostat indicates to the blower to turn. The motor will run for 15-30 seconds, then the pilot light or direct spark will ignite the burner to heat the air. After that, the blower propels warm air into your RV.

Understanding how your furnace works is vital to diagnosing problems.

The furnace should turn off in the reverse order after reaching the set temperature. To troubleshoot a problem with your RV furnace, you have to first rule out simpler problems.

But to rule out simpler problems, you need to know the general mechanics. I can’t account for every model and furnace type, but most common RV furnaces will work similarly.

They will all work something like this:

• The thermostat triggers a request for heat , sending a current to the RV furnace.
• The electricity powers the time delay relay , which in turn passes power to the RV furnace blower. source
• The blower spins up and pulls air from the air return , creating a flow of air through the heat exchanger and out of the ducts. Another fan pulls air into the combustion chamber to feed the furnace.
• The blower speed increases , then the fan air causes the sail switch to close.
• Power then flows through the High Limit Switch and onwards to the Control Circuit Board.
• Power is delivered to the control board , it opens the gas supply and causes the DSI igniter to spark.
• The gas lights and creates heat within the combustion chamber.
• Heat will pass into the heat exchanger , heating the air passing through the Ducts.
• The RV begins to warm up , then the thermostat will reach its pre-configured temperature.
• Once the correct temperature is reached , the power is removed, and the burner will shut down.
• The fan will continue to run in order to cool the furnace safely until the time delay switch opens.

If you’re like me, you like to see how things work. Words simply aren’t enough. There is an excellent video that shows how RV furnaces work on the bottom part of this article.

Furnaces with pilot lights operate in a similar fashion, but the control board doesn’t trigger the ignitor. Once the pilot light is lit, the furnace is controlled by the flow of gas alone.

All RV furnaces operate on battery power.

You don’t need to plug into the mains or run a generator. As long as the RV batteries are suitably charged, and you have gas, you can operate the furnace with no issues.

Common reasons for camper furnaces blowing cold air are low battery voltage or a dirty filter. If the voltage is too low, the fan will operate, but the gas valves will not open. Dirty filters will restrict air flow, causing the heat exchanger to overheat and shut off too quickly.

With the furnace in your home, the blower doesn’t start until the plenum is warmed up.

The plenum is an air distribution box attached to the supply outlet of the HVAC equipment. It is what’s responsible for heating or cooling the air to make your house comfortable.

In an RV, the furnace starts running immediately.

That’s because it uses the same motor to power the hot-air blower and the blower that moves air through the combustion area. If the batteries are too weak to power both blowers, the sail switch will not light. If it is already lit, it will shut off.

So, if the house batteries are weak, the blower motor spins.

But it doesn’t spin fast enough to trigger the sail switch. As a result, you get a furnace that blows cold air. If the blower is blowing, and the sail switch is triggered, but the furnace is still blowing cold air, it could be due to a dirty air filter.

Dirty air filters are the most common cause of furnace problems.

Dust and dirt restrict airflow. If the airflow is restricted too much, the heat exchanger will cut off. If the blower is running, but cold air is coming out, try replacing the filter.

If you turn your heating unit on and feel warm air for a moment and then feels cold, it could be the flame sensor. If the flame sensor is dirty, your gas burner won’t stay lit. This will cause the air to go cold shortly after the furnace is turned on.

This can also occur when the house batteries are weak. The blower motor spins, but not fast enough to deflect the sail switch. This results in a furnace that blows cold air.

Job this morning that had furnace trouble, no heat! It’s important to service this unit yearly so please give us a call for all of your RV repair needs, and we’ll take care of you! 🛠🚛 pic.twitter.com/FUpBCQTxH7 — abs_camping_repair (@AbsRepair) December 5, 2020

The reset button is located inside the blower compartment on the side of the motor. It is usually labeled, and sometimes red. Turn off the power supply and the gas to your furnace. If the reset button is up, push it to reset your furnace. You can also pull the fuse, wait a few minutes, and reinsert the fuse.

There are a few different ways to reset your furnace.

You may have to go as far as switching off the power and the gas and then turning it all back on before you do a reset. If that’s the case, you may have to press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds. For a more exact way to reset your furnace, consult the manual for your furnace.

How to test your furnace with basic tools

The first, and most important thing is to get a voltmeter.

Having a voltmeter and knowing how to use it will help diagnose and fix most RV furnace issues. Use the voltmeter to ensure that sufficient power is reaching the components that make up the RV furnace. You don’t need anything fancy.

A cheap one will usually get the job done.

Newer RV furnaces will usually have a small LED attached to the ICB. If there is a problem, the LED will flash. The number of flashes will point to the type of issue. There should be a chart nearby to help you decipher the codes that the flashes indicate.

Typically, fans are located just behind the access cover. The motor provides power through a shaft to both the main furnace fan and the combustion fan. They are usually covered in a protective case that may also contain the sail switch.

The RV’s 12-volt power system will power the motor.

If the RV is plugged into shore power or has a generator running, there should be no drop in voltage to the motor. But if the RV battery is weak, the voltage may not be enough to power the motor.

Wear and tear or corrosion of the wiring may impact the voltage as well. Checking voltage at the batteries, as well as at the motor, may help diagnose some issues.

Airflow issues with your RV heater

You should also check the external combustion exhaust and air intake.

These are located at the external furnace cover panel. Bugs, dirt, and nests can block airflow, inhibiting operation. Be sure to replace the cover after checking for blockages. Some furnaces will not operate with the external cover removed.

Dirt that gets into ducts and air vents can restrict flow. Dirt in ducts can also build-up on the heat exchanger, which can affect performance or even be a risk for fire.

Some furnaces will enter a lockout condition if an issue is encountered. This means the control board won’t allow the furnace to start. The lockout condition can be reset by turning the thermostat off and reducing the temperature, so the furnace doesn’t turn on. Wait approximately 30 seconds, turn the thermostat back on and increase the temperature to the desired level.

All gas appliances are set to operate with a standard supply pressure of approximately 3 PSI.

The pressure within a propane tank is much higher than this, so a propane regulator is used to control the gas pressure . If a residue is present in the propane tank, this can interfere with the regulator, causing it to fail or work intermittently.

Additionally, an empty tank will not provide any pressure, so be sure to check your levels.

If you suspect an issue with the gas supply, then a gas regulator is the most likely component to fail. Thankfully they are inexpensive and can be easily replaced.

The specific diagnostic codes used for RV furnaces can vary depending on the brand and model of the furnace. However, some of the most common diagnostic codes include:

• Code 31: This code indicates a problem with the air flow. It could be caused by a dirty air filter, a blocked air intake, or a faulty blower motor.
• Code 32: This code indicates a problem with the furnace’s ignition system. It could be caused by a dirty or faulty electrode, a weak spark, or a problem with the gas valve.
• Code 33: This code indicates a limit or flame rollout switch has been tripped, which is usually caused by a safety mechanism that shuts off the furnace when it detects a problem with the heat exchanger.
• Code 34: This code indicates a problem with the furnace’s ignition sequence, which could be caused by a blocked or dirty burner, a faulty gas valve, or a problem with the ignition control board.

It’s important to note that not all RV furnaces use diagnostic codes, and those that do may use different codes depending on the manufacturer. Additionally, some manufacturers may provide specific codes for certain models or series of furnaces.

If you are experiencing problems with your RV furnace, it’s always best to consult the manufacturer’s manual or contact a qualified technician for assistance in identifying and resolving the issue.

An RV furnace will work without a battery when connected either shore power or when using a generator. But when not connected to those power sources, RV furnaces will require battery power. And even with one of those, it will still need propane.

Most things in your RV need a properly functioning 12-volt DC house battery system. That is where your RV’s power converter is used. When plugged into shore power, the converter is converting 120 volt AC power into 12 volt DC power.

Furnaces don’t rely solely on electricity, either. They also need propane. So, you can bypass the need for a battery by hooking up to 110 power. But it still uses propane.

Your best bet for a properly functioning furnace is through your converter or good, fully charged batteries.

If you own a Class A motorhome and are considering living in it full-time, there are some things you want to keep in mind.

You want to consider the temperatures, the amount of snow and ice, as well as how insulated your RV is.

But there is a lot more to living in a Class A motorhome than that. Just read this recent article to learn more about living in a Class A motorhome in the winter.

Just click the link to read it on my site.

Are you prepared for a change of seasons? Get your RV furnace ready for winter, your extended warranty recommend to have your furnace inspected and serviced. #rvfurnace #rvservice #rvheater #readyforwinter #rvseason #rvparts #rvappliances #rvheat #whatsintheshop #shoptalk pic.twitter.com/IY1hpx1C24 — California RV Specialists – Dustin Simpson (@dustincalrv) October 4, 2020

Old RV furnace systems mostly have pilot lights while most newer RV furnaces have replaced the pilot light with a direct spark ignition system. This means they have electric ignitions, and there is no need for a pilot light.

So unless you have an older RV, just make sure your propane is turned on, and the thermostat is adjusted properly.

The chances are that your RV does not have a pilot light or it has an automatic pilot light. Many new RV furnaces have replaced the pilot light with direct spark ignition or an automatic ignition system.

If your furnace is having a hard time keeping the pilot light lit, check the thermocouple to make sure it’s positioned correctly. A malfunctioning regulator on your propane tank could also cause an irregular pilot light.

First, make sure the main propane valve for your RV is turned on. The main shutoff valve is usually located at the propane tank.

To turn on the furnace, just use the thermostat. Make sure it’s set to heat and adjust it as necessary, just like you would at home. The furnace should automatically kick on and off to maintain the proper temperature.

If it does have a pilot light, make sure the propane tank is on, turn your fan to auto, and turn your thermostat to the highest heat setting. Let the fan run for a few minutes.

Next, remove the access panel and remove the cover.

Turn your gas dial to the pilot position and hold down the knob. Then, light the pilot. Press the striker ignition device several times, or use a lighter or a match. Release the knob, and turn it to the “on” position.

Set the thermostat to the desired position.

If you do not recognize this, it is the view of our front RV furnace. It stopped working properly while #boondocking in 39°F (4°C). Good news 2nd furnace and weather is warming. One of the goals of trip is to test systems for warranty service. Minor bump to a good trip. pic.twitter.com/N9XkFRT0bT — Our Nomadic Story (@OurNomadicStory) December 12, 2018

Dirty air filters

Dirty air filters are the most common cause of furnace problems. Dust and dirt restrict airflow. If the airflow is restricted too much, the heat exchanger will cut off, but the blower will continue to run, blowing out cold air.

While some issues can be resolved with these tips, not everything can be fixed. If your furnace still isn’t working, even after troubleshooting, it may be time to call a professional.

The first thing you want to do is take off the cover and get a look inside. Look for anything amiss, debris, or anything that could be blocking the exhaust.

Also, verify the intake is open and ventilated. Blow out any dust and debris from the assembly using pressurized air. Clean off the grate, and make sure there is nothing covering it. Clean out any debris the pressurized air missed.

If your furnace is blowing cold air, try turning the heat off and back on . If the air feels warm and then turns cold, it may be that the flame sensor is dirty. If the flame sensor is dirty, the burner won’t stay lit. This causes the air to go cold soon after the furnace is turned on.

If it’s a particularly cold day or night, your heat pump might just be blowing air that’s cooler than your body temperature, making you think it’s cold. But as it gets colder and your heat pump can’t pull as much heat in from the outdoor air, the air coming from your vents drops slightly in temperature. source

Check the battery

There should be a minimum of 10.5 volts coming into the unit. Check to make sure power is coming into the RV. Check all of the fuses. Check the thermostat to make sure it’s not damaged, and check to make sure the tubing that delivers the heat to the vents are not kinked or bent, obstructing airflow.

If you aren’t on shore power or using a generator, a fully-charged house battery system along with an inverter is essential for ensuring the heating system has the power to operate.

Check your propane levels

It could be that the furnace blower can start, but if you don’t have enough gas, the burner won’t ignite. Also, check to make sure your propane is turned on. If your furnace does have a pilot light, look inside and make sure it’s staying on.

If none of these things work, it’s time to consider calling a professional. The issue could lie within the furnace assembly.

Bad motor relay

If your furnace fan isn’t turning on, it could be due to a malfunctioning relay on the circuit board.

If the relay fails to open, the blower/fan cannot start. To identify the issue, you can try troubleshooting the relay. One way to do this is by bypassing the relay and testing if the fan can run directly on battery power. If the fan works properly with direct power, then the fan is not the problem and the relay might be the culprit.

On the other hand, if the fan fails to run even on battery power, it’s likely that the fan is problematic or stuck, perhaps due to rust if it hasn’t been used for a while. It’s worth noting that if you hear a squealing sound from your RV furnace, it’s likely due to a faulty blower motor that requires replacement.

Repairing another rv furnace #mobilervservice pic.twitter.com/mN5KEVLhxN — Omaha RV Repair (@Omaharvrepair) March 16, 2017

Faulty sail switch

An RV furnace that’s running but not producing heat is often caused by the sail switch failing to open, which is one of two safety switches in the furnace. When the sail switch doesn’t open, the furnace won’t produce heat.

The sail switch can fail over time or become clogged with debris like dust, pet hair, insect nests, or rust. Sometimes, the sail switch can be cleaned by blowing it, and it will work correctly again. But other times, it will need to be replaced.

The location of the sail switch can vary depending on the specific RV furnace system.

However, in most cases, the sail switch is located inside the furnace compartment, near the burner assembly. It’s usually connected to a small lever arm that extends into the path of the furnace’s combustion air intake. When the blower fan turns on, it creates a flow of air that moves the sail switch, allowing it to open and complete the circuit that starts the burner.

Faulty propane valve

If your RV’s furnace fan is functioning, but your furnace is not producing heat, a faulty gas valve could be the problem.

To diagnose the issue, position yourself near the exhaust port of your RV’s furnace and ask someone to activate the thermostat to turn on the furnace. After starting up the furnace, you should hear the fan begin to spin, followed by the solenoid making a clicking sound.

Then, you should hear a rapid ticking noise (the ignitor) and smell propane gas.

However, if you hear the fan turn on, followed by the solenoid clicking sound and the rapid ticking noise, but do not smell propane gas, it’s likely that the furnace’s gas valve is not functioning properly.

The propane valve in most RV furnace systems is located near the burner assembly.

The burner assembly in most RV furnace systems is typically located near the bottom of the furnace unit, underneath the combustion chamber. It can usually be accessed by removing the furnace cover and insulation.

It is typically connected to the main gas line that runs through the furnace and is responsible for regulating the flow of propane to the burner.

However, the exact location of the valve may vary depending on the make and model of the furnace. It’s best to consult the manufacturer’s instructions or a professional RV technician for specific information on your RV furnace’s propane valve location.

Faulty ignitor

Moving on to the next step of the furnace lighting sequence, it’s time to check the ignitor.

Take a position near the exhaust port of your RV furnace and pay close attention to the sounds that occur when the thermostat is raised inside your vehicle by someone else.

First, the fan should turn on, followed by the click of the solenoid. After that, you’ll either hear the ignitor rapidly ticking or not making any sound at all.

If you can smell LP gas at this point, but your furnace doesn’t ignite, then the problem is likely to be the ignitor.

The ignitor is typically located near the burner assembly and is responsible for creating the spark that ignites the propane gas in the furnace.

Another note: If you see soot on the outside of your RV near the exhaust vent, this is a sign that there is improper combustion. It’s not normal to see soot on your exhaust vent.

There are several reasons why your RV furnace might start heating but stop before it reaches the set point.

One possible cause is a dirty air filter. A clogged air filter can restrict airflow, causing your furnace to overheat and shut off prematurely. The solution is to replace the air filter with a clean one.

Another possible reason is a faulty limit switch.

The limit switch is designed to shut off the furnace when the temperature reaches a certain level. If the switch is defective or dirty, it may shut off the furnace before it reaches the set point. You can try cleaning the switch, but if that doesn’t work, you may need to replace it.

Another cause of a furnace that starts heating but stops before it reaches the set point is a faulty thermostat.

If your thermostat is not calibrated properly or is malfunctioning, it may cause your furnace to turn off prematurely. Try replacing the batteries in your thermostat, and if that doesn’t work, consider replacing the thermostat altogether.

A clogged or malfunctioning propane regulator can also cause your RV furnace to stop heating before it reaches the set point. If the regulator is clogged or damaged, it may not be supplying enough propane to keep the furnace running. You can try cleaning the regulator or replacing it if necessary.

Lastly, a dirty or clogged burner assembly can cause your RV furnace to shut off prematurely.

The burner assembly is responsible for igniting the propane and creating heat, so if it is dirty or clogged, it may not function properly. Try cleaning the burner assembly and see if that solves the problem.

RV furnaces do not typically have a reset button. Instead, the furnace’s control board is designed to automatically reset itself when an issue occurs.

While some furnace models may have a manual reset button, this is not common across all brands and models of RV furnaces. It’s important to consult your furnace’s manual or contact a professional technician if you are unsure if your furnace has a reset button.

In general, if your RV furnace isn’t working properly, it’s best to start troubleshooting by checking the thermostat, propane supply, and ventilation. If these areas are functioning correctly, then the problem may be with the furnace’s control board or other internal components.

If you suspect that your furnace’s control board needs to be reset, there are a few steps you can take. First, turn off the furnace’s power supply by flipping the breaker switch. After waiting a few minutes, turn the breaker switch back on and try restarting the furnace.

If the furnace still isn’t working, it may be time to call in a professional technician to diagnose and fix the issue. They can inspect the furnace’s control board and other components to determine the cause of the problem.

Final thoughts

If your furnace is blowing cold air, fixing it could be as easy as changing out the filter, but you may need to check your propane and battery power, too.

But in some cases, the issue may be something a little trickier.

I’ve provided a troubleshooting guide to get you through most situations. If you haven’t found your fix here, it’s probably time to consult a professional.

Jeff Campbell

Jeff Campbell travels on and off with his 3 daughters in a Newmar Baystar Class A Motorhome. He writes extensively on both RVs, campgrounds, parenting on the road tips, remote learning & schooling, and much more! Click Here to learn more about me. Click Here to learn more about my site. Editorial Policies.

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How to Solve Common RV Furnace Issues: RV Troubleshooting

By Brenda Puckett & Roadtrippers

Although the RV furnace uses one of the simplest technology systems in a rig, it can be a hassle to repair. Luckily, there are a few things owners can do to stay on top of furnace maintenance and ensure that your RV stays at a comfortable temperature, especially when camping in colder weather.

There are a few different types of heaters used inside RVs, like hydronic heat (mini boiler system) and catalytic heaters (or space heaters), but most rigs typically have a forced air furnace. This propane-fueled system also uses 12-volt DC from the coach battery to operate the thermostat and the blower fans.

Free Course: RV Maintenance Made Easy

The appliance itself is typically not visible. It’s usually located behind a wall with the only visible elements being the return air vent (located in the interior) and the intake/exhaust vent on the exterior of the RV. 

RV furnace issues range from the pilot not lighting to blowing out cold air. Let’s take a look at a few common problems and troubleshooting solutions for your furnace.

Troubleshooting: The Furnace Shuts Off Within 30 Seconds

The return air compartment doesn’t have a filter and is often located under the refrigerator or someplace low to the floor—this allows dust, food, and debris to get into that area. This can cause an important component called the “sail switch” to get dirty, preventing it from sending a signal to the furnace system that conditions are safe to ignite the propane. 

This is a problem that requires an RV technician to remedy. You can help prevent this issue by vacuuming the return area once per month (or more during cold weather season).  

Troubleshooting: The Furnace Doesn’t Turn on After Setting the Thermostat

Believe it or not, this can be as simple as adjusting the setting on the thermostat. Make sure that it’s set to “Heat” or “Furnace.” Next—remember that the thermostat operates from the 12-volt DC coach battery—ensure that your battery is fully charged and then check the 12-volt fuse panel to make sure the furnace fuse isn’t blown. 

There could be a few other issues that cause the furnace to not kick on that need to be addressed by an RV technician, including loose wiring connections and circuit board problems.

Troubleshooting: The Furnace Blows Cold Air

Because the furnace utilizes propane as its fuel source, there are several safety features that are enacted before the system fires up. A blower fan must reach a minimum number of cubic feet per minute (CFMs) before telling the propane ignition process to begin. You’ll feel cold air blowing during this initial procedure. Cold air also blows at the end of the cycle for about 45 to 90 seconds (sometimes up to 5 minutes) while the fan purges the system. Have patience and understand that this is normal.

Your furnace also has a high-temperature limit switch to cool down the burn chamber. Air isn’t necessarily cold during this time, but it might not be as hot.  

Troubleshooting: The Furnace Fan Runs, But The Propane Flame Doesn’t Light

Start by checking that the propane tanks (and the LP detector in some furnace types) are turned on and that you have enough propane to provide the high level of British thermal units (BTUs) needed for furnace operation.  

If your furnace has tried to ignite three times unsuccessfully, it will give you a fault light and go into appliance lockout. Reset the system by turning off the furnace at the thermostat and turning it on again to allow the ignition process to restart.

Check the exterior exhaust vent to make sure that it isn’t blocked with spider webs or mud dauber nests—a telltale sign of this is soot on the side of the RV exterior. You’ll need an RV technician to remove these obstructions.

Extremely cold and damp outside temperatures can freeze the regulator. When winter camping, use a tank cover, tank warmers, and/or warming lights to keep the tanks and the regulator warm and protected.

Other problems like the circuit board or dirty ignitor probes can also cause this issue but require an RV technician to check.

Troubleshooting: The Furnace Runs Intermittently

This means that there’s a problem with either the sail switch or the high-temperature limit switch. They could be on the verge of going out or have a loose wiring connection. If the battery cable connections are loose, you can easily check and remedy; however, other issues require an RV technician.

This can also happen when the furnace exceeds the LP rate of vaporization when it’s extremely cold, and the LP tank is low on fuel. The furnace will run, but then run short on fuel. If you wait 15 minutes, it could create enough vapor to run again for a little while, but then runs short of fuel again. 

Additional RV Furnace Troubleshooting Tips

• If you utilize both your furnace and a space heater, the thermostat might think that the temperature setting is already satisfied. Move the space heater to another room or turn it off.
• Mud daubers and other insects love to make nests in the furnace exhaust vent that leads into the burn chamber. Some RVers use mud dauber screens to keep them out (there are different sizes for different furnace models). Note that the use of mud dauber screens could void your warranty, so check with your manufacturer before use. This exhaust vent is also very hot when in use—don’t install any screens when your furnace is on.
• Furnace floor registers should be open, uncovered, and free of debris. If blocked, back pressure can be put on the system and possibly cause the burn chamber to overheat. 
• If you can access your foil ductwork, check that it’s straight and free of kinks. If it’s expanded over time, trim some of the excess off.

These troubleshooting tips can help you remedy some common RV furnace issues. However, there are going to be problems that require the expertise of an RV technician—like cleaning or replacing your sail switch or high-temperature limit switch, clearing blockages like dauber nests, replacing the circuit board, and cleaning the ignitor probes.

This article has links to products that were carefully selected by our editors. We may earn commission on your purchases from these links.  Visit this page  for the full details of our affiliate marketing policy.

Meet the Authors

Brenda Puckett

Brenda is a certified RV inspector, registered RV technician, National RV Training Academy technical assistant, Women's RV Basics training instructor, small business instructor for the National RV Training Academy, published contributor for Girl Camper magazine, and the creator of "52 Ways to Empower Women RVers" YouTube series.

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RV Trips & Travel

Advise to Keep you and your RV in Good shape

RV's · July 3, 2021

Why Is My RV Heater Not Working?

Cold-weather campers know the sinking feeling when an RV heater just won’t work. The panic sets in as you think about how you and your family will stay warm for the night, and the family camping trip ends too early. No one wants to get stuck in the cold, so it’s essential to prepare for any malfunction your RV heater can throw at you.

The answer as to why your RV heater isn’t working depends on the type of furnace and the type of issue. There are a variety of circumstances that will determine where you search for the problem. For example, if the system is running, but no heat is escaping, you will want to check the propane tank first.

We put together an essential guide for DIY gurus and replacers alike to ensure their winter camping trips don’t end in a freezing night spent huddled together. Our guide comes complete with troubleshooting info, top replacement models for every buyer, and prices to keep your budget intact.

Aspects To Check For Problems In Your RV Heater

Not all RVs are the same, but if these essential components make up your heating system, one of them is most likely causing the problem. Educating yourself on the parts and functions of an RV heater will allow you to fix most issues expertly. We will list where to look in the heating system based on each circumstance.

• Propane tank
• Propane line
• Thermocouple
• Pilot light

Propane Tank Problems

If the system is running but no heat is escaping, check if the propane tank is turned on. If it is, check if the rest of the RV receives propane by test lighting a gas stove burner or another gas-powered appliance. If the appliance lights, you know the problem is with the ignition. If it doesn’t light, you will see the problem is with the propane line.

Cold weather can often lower the pressure in the propane tank, so if the propane line and connections are intact and the tank isn’t low, try bringing the tank inside to warm up for a bit and reconnect it later. Getting a frozen tank inside should unthaw it if the inside of your RV is still warm enough.

Propane Line Problems

Propane lines can get damaged by pets, wildlife, weather, and more. Although these should be easy fixes, tighten loose connectors and patch leaks in the line.

Thermocouple Problems

The thermocouple is a bimetallic sensor in the RV heater. Its electrical resistance changes with the temperature. The control system detects temperature change in the thermocouple, which signals the gas valve to open and ignites the furnace.

Check to make sure the thermocouple is positioned correctly in the burner and that any bugs or debris do not hinder it. If the thermocouple is burned out, you will need to replace it. The average price is around $10, so this repair won’t break the bank.

Pilot Light Problems

The pilot light is a small flame that allows for quick ignition. Pilot lights used to burn constantly, but most systems don’t have a constant light to save gas. If the pilot light doesn’t light, it could be a low propane level or a leak in the propane line.

Electrical Problems

Electrical problems include:

• Voltage issues

An RV heater usually needs 10.5V to ignite the furnace and 12V to run the fan. First, check your battery voltage to see if it is giving off enough power. You may need a new battery if yours isn’t providing enough power .

• Damaged or disconnected wiring

Like the propane lines, electrical wires can face many different damage problems. Make sure the wiring is connected and that nothing is frayed or split.

• Battery corrosion

Battery corrosion can seem daunting, but it has an easy fix:

• Mix water and baking soda
• Disconnect everything from the corroded battery terminal
• Scrub the mixture into the corroded battery terminal with a toothbrush
• Wipe the mixture off with a clean paper towel until the battery terminal is dry
• Reconnect everything back to the battery terminal
• A tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse

If a circuit is tripped, you can reset it. But if a fuse is blown, you will have to replace it.

Airflow Problems

If the pilot light and thermocouple are intact, but the furnace still won’t ignite, check the sail switch. The sail switch is an internal flow switch that flips when a change in the thermostat occurs. It looks like a basic on-off switch. If there is not enough airflow, the furnace will not be able to ignite. If the switch is broken, bad, or sticky, it may need to be replaced or thoroughly cleaned.

How Much Is A New RV Heater?

The cost of heating your RV will depend on the size of your RV. Smaller RVs and trailers can usually use space heaters instead of complete thermostat heating systems. RV space heater can range from $30 to $300 depending on the features you need. Some people even purchase multiple space heaters instead of a complete thermostat heating system.

Although it is harder to install and fix a complete heating system in your RV, having one allows a more homey feel to your travels. RV thermostats should cost between $60 and $200, but this is only for the thermostat. You will most likely need a professional to install the system, and you must keep propane stocked in your RV.

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The heat is not on, furnace troubleshooting, the heater fan won't turn on; the heater is dead.

First, check the 12V power--do the ceiling lights work? Does the patio light work? If not, the problem may lie with the battery or converter and not necessarily the heater. If the lights do work but the heater is not getting power check the heater fuse (remove the heater faceplate/grate (by removing the two screws that hold the grate to the heater) and look for a red wire with a fuse holder in-line--check the fuse in the fuse holder).

Second, if you know the heater is getting power but still won't turn on, check the thermostat. Sometimes the slider that turns the heater off pushes the power contact clock-wise away from it's correct position (instead of pushing the contact up and away from it's "on" position"). In this case the heater turns off as expected but the next time you try to turn the heater on , nothing happens.

If the contact has rotated out of position simply push the contact counter-clock-wise until it touches the round contact spot on the base of the thermostat. To prevent this from happening again, push towards the back of the thermostat slightly the next time you slide the control to "off."

Third, the cycle adjustment might not be touching the wire. The thermostat cycle adjustment has a "dead zone" where there is no wire. If the adjustment arm has vibrated off the wire the thermostat will not turn the furnace on. Rotate the adjustment arm until it touches the wire.

Lastly, to double-check if the thermostat is indeed the problem remove the two brown wires that attach to the thermostat (from the furnace) and connect the two wires together directly. If the furnace operates normally you'll know the thermostat is the issue. If the heater doesn't turn on the heater may have a blown fuse.

The heater fan turns on for about 30 seconds and then shuts off.

This is probably a sail-switch issue. The sail-switch is a safety device that turns off the propane if the furnace loses 12V power (no 12V power = no fan = no way for the furnace to cool itself off, so the gas still burning in a furnace that has lost power could be a dangerous situation, hence the sail-switch).

For 17,000 BTU furnaces (and the occasional 19,000 BTU furnace):

Two situations may cause the sail-switch to not move into its proper position and not allow the furnace to ignite:

Low battery: if the battery is too low to spin the heater fan at the proper speed, the air blowing on the switch is too slow to push the sail-switch into position.

In this case getting more power to the heater (by running a generator, hooking up a new battery, or hooking up a car and charging the battery through a hot lead or jumper cables) will speed up the fan and allow it to push the switch into place.

High altitude: the higher the campsite, the thinner the air. If the air is too thin the heater fan can be running at top speed and still not have enough air to push the sail-switch into proper position.

The heater grate restricts the airflow around the heater. By removing the two screws that hold the grate in place and removing the grate itself, more air can move to the back of the furnace; the increased volume of air may be enough to overcome the high altitude issue.

For 19,000 BTU furnaces (if it's not a low battery or high altitude):

The sail switch may not be fully engaged. The switch appears to move into it's proper position but the plastic housing of the switch itself sometimes prevents the switch from closing the circuit properly.

We're sorry we can't put our thoughts regarding this issue online but please call us at 303-922-6221 for assistance.

High-limit switch

An uncommon issue with the same symptom is a bad high-limit switch. This is a fail-safe device that cuts power to the heater if the temperature of the burner exceeds a set limit. Once a limit-switch has been "sprung" by high heat it returns to it's "on" position once it cools down. However, in some cases the switch simply breaks (and not necessarily from heat) and needs to be replaced.

The heater fan turns on and I hear a clicking sound, but the propane never lights.

Check that you have propane. Light the stove and make sure the flame is burning at the normal strength. If not, there may be an obstruction in the propane line or the regulator or hose that runs to the propane tank may have a problem.

If the camper has not been used for a while the gas line may have no propane in it. The clicking sound is the heater's igniter trying to light the gas. As the heater is trying to light the gas, air in the gas line is bled out. Once the propane arrives the furnace should light.

In some cases the gas line is too long for the heater to bleed out all of the air in one attempt. After two attempts to light the furnace (two rounds of clicking sounds) if the gas has not arrived yet the furnace will turn itself off (as a safety measure). Turn the furnace off (using the thermostat) and back on, this will give the furnace two more attempts to light the propane.

In some campers the furnace is located at the rear of the camper and the gas line almost always requires a second on/off cycle to light the propane (unless the stove or fridge was lit prior to trying the furnace). We know of no pop-up camper that requires a third on/off cycle.

If the furnace doesn't light after two cycles, there may be a more serious problem such as a broken igniter, a clogged burner, or a bad control board . These problems are difficult to trouble-shoot online or even over the phone; bringing the furnace in for a bench test is the better solution at that point (sorry!).

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Troubleshooting RV Propane Furnace That Won’t Ignite

• November 22, 2018 /
• RVing 101 /
• By R. Geraldi /

Chilly weather outside? Not great news for an RVer like myself and so many others. Luckily, each motorhome comes equipped with a decent propane furnace which keeps everyone warm inside the vehicle. But like most things, furnaces can malfunction . Maybe they won’t ignite, or the igniter is busted. Perhaps a fuse is blown, or a terrible smell is spreading. Whatever it is, an RVer ought to have a handy RV propane furnace troubleshooting guide. Luckily, I’ve compiled a list of tips dealing with this particular subject.

What Is an RV Propane Furnace?

As its name suggests, it’s a propane-powered furnace for the motorhome. Each RV comes with furnaces of different sizes, types, and capabilities. Having a functioning one inside the RV is extremely important, and sometimes even the smallest glitches can cause huge issues.

The Ins and Outs of an RV Furnace

Where is the rv furnace located.

With most RVs, the furnace is located on the lower side of an RV. I can usually tell what the furnace looks like and where it is based on the outside vents.

It’s not a coincidence that the furnace is where it is. Most of the ducts that run from the furnace run from the bottom through the entire RV, heating it up evenly. In addition, it’s easier to access and perform repairs from its position.

Do RV Furnaces Have Filters?

The short answer is — yes and no. Usually, they don’t, but filters can be added if an owner feels inclined to do so.

It’s important to note here that, should anyone install a filter on their RV furnace, they have to pay attention to how restrictive it is, or rather — isn’t. Airflow is very important, and a thick filter can do more harm than good.

How to Remove an RV Furnace

With modern RVs, removing the furnace is easy. However, I shouldn’t have to point out to only do that when the furnace is cold, i.e. hasn’t been used for several days.

There are several key steps I should do before I can remove my furnace. First, I must make sure everything related to the furnace is turned off since I don’t want to be shocked by electricity. Next, I disconnect the gas line, the vents and any wiring connecting it to the thermostat and other gadgets. These wires might even have to be cut and reconnected later. I then unscrew any section of the furnace that’s screwed to the base and I can slide it out with no issues.

How to Install an RV Furnace

Considering that the installation of an RV furnace is almost the exact opposite of its removal, I won’t repeat the steps in too much detail. It’s important to connect the gas line, the wiring, and the vents properly and securely. If not, they can cause lots of problems in the future. In addition, if the furnace “slides” about, it might be a good idea to harness it with something, like screws.

How to Lubricate an RV Furnace

One of the issues that will pop up in this text deals with noise, specifically squealing. This can be caused by motor bearings, and the quickest solution is lubrication. However, there’s the question of how to lubricate them. Most people make the mistake of pouring too much oil on, “drowning” the bearings in it. That’s not how it should be done. For maximum effect, a few strategic drops of oil will suffice.

Common Problems with an RV Furnace

Most of the problems will get addressed here, but I’ll summarize them nonetheless. Some of them relate to the furnace not igniting, even if other elements are working fine (such as the fan). Other times, the furnace won’t switch off. Then there are various noise-related problems, such as clicking, humming or squealing. Of course, any foul smells usually indicate problems with the furnace as well.

Each of these problems has a suitable solution, some of which even the owner can apply without the aid of an expert.

RV Furnace Won’t Ignite

This is a fairly common problem every RVer faces. The furnace not igniting can happen because of several reasons, so whenever I have an issue like this, I follow a few steps. First, I check if I have any propane left. If not, I refill the tank as soon as I can. However, if that’s not the problem, I take a look at the thermocouple. In case it’s broken or damaged, I buy a new one and replace it . Thermocouples for RVs aren’t expensive, and anyone can replace them.

RV Furnace Blower Comes on but Won’t Ignite

Another common issue is when the blower begins to blow, but the furnace still isn’t igniting. Normally, this is an electrical issue. If it happens to be low power, I merely replace the battery with a one that has the right voltage. This usually solves the problem.

Fan Runs, But No Heat

I’ve heard people have this problem plenty of times in the past. There will be times when the furnace fan clearly works but no heat comes from it. The first thing I suggest be done here is to check for batteries or poor electrical connections to the motor of the blower. No electricity results in less force to ignite the sail switch. However, a different problem might be insufficient ventilation. If this is the case, I clean up all of the heat registers. Even a small blockage can obstruct the air flow, so doing this properly is important.

Blowing Cold Air

People get confused, and sometimes even scared when this happens. After all, a furnace shouldn’t be blowing cold air, right?

Once again, the low battery voltage can be the issue here, so the best thing to do is to replace the battery. A weak power source won’t trigger the sail switch, and it won’t regulate the air flow.

However, the sail switch itself can be the cause of this issue. Maybe it’s rusted, or there could be an insect nest somewhere inside of it. Normally, I check the sail switch thoroughly every week just to make sure it functions properly.

And then, there are the propane tank problems. Maybe it’s the moisture in the valve, the regulator or even the hoses freezing at low temperatures. Or maybe there’s too much butane within the propane tank. Normally these issues have to do with the RV propane tank dealer’s supplier. The only solution I can think of when it comes to this is to replace the dealer.

RV Furnace Igniter Not Working

The igniter is the part of the furnace that lights it up, and once it’s broken, there’ll be no heat. Any number of reasons can be behind a broken igniter. Usually, I first check the pilot light. In case it isn’t working, the problem is most likely with the thermocouple, which I check immediately after. Sometimes, the thermocouple needs to be replaced, which I do as quickly as possible after the check. However, the air filter, the blades or even the motor can be an issue. That means I need to clean them thoroughly and lubricate where necessary.

Burnt fuses or tripped breakers can also cause problems with the igniter. I always go over the electrical service panel if I suspect this to be the case. Next, I relight the pilot heat and proceed to check the temperatures. If necessary, I clean up the burner ports or the pilot orifice and adjust the burner’s air shutter, just in case.

Finally, I try to light the pilot with a match like I would on regular gas stoves. If none of these steps work, the igniter is definitely broken, and I proceed to replace it.

RV Furnace Igniter Replacement

Replacing igniters should be, and I have to stress this, something that an RV specialist should do. Whenever people ask me how to replace igniters, I always tell them to call a repairman, as igniters are very delicate.

However, there are ways for me to replace the igniter myself if for some reason I can’t get a repairman to do it for me. After I switch off the furnace, I move to the access door and open it. Next, I disconnect every wiring harness of the furnace and unscrew the igniter from its position. Then, after buying a new igniter, I insert it into the furnace with its tip facing the inside and screw it into place. Finally, I reconnect the wiring harnesses and shut the access door. Of course, I always ignite the burner to give the new igniter a test run. In case it doesn’t work, I retrace my steps or just get a different igniter.

RV Furnace Backfires

It’s surprising how often this problem pops up. There will be times when the furnace backfires severely. Most of the times, this happens just after ignition. Any number of issues can be the cause of this. For example, the igniter can be malfunctioning or dirty, and, as such, can allow for gas build-up. Once gas accumulates, it “bangs” after ignition loudly. I’ve already outlined how to replace an igniter earlier in the text.

However, the combustion impeller could also have some damage, resulting in less air flow. Alternatively, the exhaust could be filled with debris build-up or an insect nest or two. All of these prevent air flow and allow for gas build-up. This means that some cleaning is in order.

RV Furnace Gas Valve

This gas valve is what regulates gas flow to the burners and the pilot light. It might be a simple tool, as it only opens and closes, but it’s extremely important to the furnace. Gas regulation is key to proper heat distribution.

RV Furnace Gas Valve Troubleshooting

In case the valve isn’t working, I check two major parts before considering replacing it. The first is the pilot light — I have to relight it, and if I’m successful, the valve will work. The second part I check is the thermocouple. If the thermocouple isn’t generating enough voltage, replacement should follow. Also, while I’m checking the thermocouple’s voltage, I go over the voltage of other mechanisms linked to the circuit too.

Naturally, if none of these are the problem, the gas valve is most likely defective. When that happens, I replace it. Just like with igniters, I always advise consulting a professional when replacing the gas valve. Sometimes, only the valve coil might need replacement, not the whole valve itself.

Low Gas Pressure

There will be times when the gas levels are really low. This can be a problem, as there will be no flame, or it won’t stay on for long.

A few issues can be the cause of this. The easiest one is having an empty propane tank. If that’s the case, I either refill it at a proper facility or outright buy a new one. Never take your RV anywhere without a full furnace propane tank. Low BTU ratings can also be the culprit behind low gas pressure.

However, the single most common reason has to be the leaks. Hoses of propane tanks will occasionally get damaged, and when they do, they must be replaced. I would also suggest buying a propane cylinder that also has a leak detector and a gas gauge. This handy tool will show if there’s any difference in pressure within the lines. That way you can be sure if there’s a leak or not.

Naturally, you won’t always be able to locate a leak. That’s why I always take the tank to a proper serviceman to check for them. It might cost a bit of time and money to do this, but it’s always better to be safe than sorry!

RV Furnace Smells like Propane (a Gas Leak)

I’ve talked about leaks earlier, and if anything is a telltale sign of a leak, it’s the smell of propane. To put it simply, it’s impossible for a functioning propane tank to regularly let out the smell of propane. What IS possible, however, is for the propane smell to come from a new furnace or even a functioning furnace that hasn’t been ignited in a while. In other words, it’s not a problem if the smell comes out once and then disappears with gradual use.

Continuous odors, however, are a problem. In case there’s a gas leak, I don’t think twice at all. I disconnect the tank and immediately buy a new one. It’s important to dispose of the old tank at the proper disposal facility, for environmental reasons.

RV Furnace Smoking

This particular issue might actually not be an issue at all. It really all depends on the amount and the color of the smoke.

If, for example, the smoke comes excessively from a new furnace, that’s perfectly fine. It’s just the new furnace “getting used to” the heat. Normally, the amount of smoke will go down very soon, and it will work just fine.

However, when there’s a lot of smoke with older, used furnaces, there’s most likely a problem there. The problem is especially bad if there are black smoke and black residue. In that case, the best thing to do is to clean up the burner thoroughly. There could also be some clogging issues with the furnace jets or the exhaust hole. Both of them will require unclogging and cleaning.

RV Furnace Smells like Burning Rubber

RVers, especially new ones, usually complain about the odor that reminds them of burning rubber. It isn’t pleasant, and it usually sets off red flags. A burning rubber smell must be a bad sign, right?

Well, not exactly. Most companies that build furnaces will use a variety of oils to lubricate the metal. Some oil residue will, therefore, remain in the furnace, even after years of continued usage. Normally these smells only come from time to time. In fact, my own furnace had that same “issue” four months ago. The best thing to do is to just let the furnace work normally. It shouldn’t take long for the smell to dissipate.

There are some RVers who’ve mentioned the smell of burning rubber not going away. If that’s the case, the only solution is to visit the closest RV repairman and have them look into it. However, even with persistent smells, the answer is most likely the oil residue. It just takes longer to go away with some RV furnaces.

RV Furnace Blower Won’t Start

At times, the blower just won’t blow. It makes no noises, nor does it crackle or vibrate. It just stands there motionless.

In case this happens, several things might be the problem. Normally, I first check the power connections. One or two connectors might have come loose, so I reattach them. However, I thoroughly clean them first, just to be on the safe side.

Other issues can include an out-of-place temperature selector, broken or disconnected wiring or continuity issues with the thermostat. The first one is easy to solve, as it only includes resetting the selector to the desired position. Faulty wiring, on the other hand, will always require help from a professional repairman. When it comes to the thermostat, I either replace it or remove any problems with its individual parts (wiring, the relay, the motor, etc.).

Furnace Will Not Shut Off

Once the furnace starts, it should shut off when the desired temperature has been reached. However, some furnaces continue working even past this, which can be dangerous.

If my furnace doesn’t shut off, I immediately check the thermostat . In 90% of cases, that’s the issue at hand. However, the furnace can continue working even after the thermostat has been pulled out. My very next step is to cut the thermostat wire going into the furnace itself. Bad wiring is a common issue and usually requires professional assistance.

Naturally, the thermostat might not be the issue altogether. Sometimes, it’s the heater or even the control board. If this is the case, I replace them as quickly as possible.

RV Furnace Will Not Stay Lit (It Works Intermittently)

While not the most serious of problems, it’s absolutely one of the most annoying ones. The RV furnace will fire up,but for some reason won’t stay turned on. It shuts down and won’t maintain any heat.

Luckily, the problem is common enough that every technician or repairman will give the same answer — it’s the control board. The flame would start up, but if it isn’t steady, the safety valve closes up and extinguishes it. The control board contacts usually corrode from overuse, and it’s important to take care of them from time to time. Usually, the flame sensor contact is the first one to go. Naturally, I could simply buy a new control board and replace the faulty one, which works just as effectively, if not better.

RV Furnace Making a Loud Noise

Now, this isn’t just a problem for me. It’s also the problem for my neighbors. Nobody likes a loud RV furnace, especially the one that rumbles into the night like a motorcycle.

Usually, this type of noise has something to do with the burners. If it does so, all I have to do is adjust the air-to-fuel ratio. For this, I merely need a screwdriver and some screws and wing nuts. However, not everyone knows how to do this, so I suggest asking a professional or an RV owner with similar problems.

Of course, there could be any number of other issues when it comes to loud noises. If it’s the fan making the noise, soundproofing can help. Pilot lights and gas lines can also be the cause of this , and they will require checking as well. Other possible “culprits” could be the sail switch being on, blower motor problems, or the time delay relay switch being closed instead of open. The solutions to these are closing the relay switch and the sail switch, as well as replacing a faulty blower motor.

RV Furnace Squealing

Unlike the roaring noise described above, the squealing noise isn’t that common, but it’s still an issue. Usually, this noise comes either from the fan or the motor. Normally I just lubricate the motor bearings and it works just fine, without any unnecessary, annoying squeals. However, in case of faulty bearings, I always recommend proper replacement. It isn’t cheap, but it’ll fix the problem.

Sometimes, the fan itself will not be aligned properly and will rub against the “birdcage.” If that’s the case, I merely align it to where it should be. However, I strongly advise seeking out professional help for this step.

Furnace Making Clicking Noises

Clicking, but not lighting.

Normally there are two possible scenarios where the furnace would start clicking. The first is not that dangerous — it’s merely the igniter trying and failing to start the furnace. Aside from the igniter breaking down, other possible problems could include a faulty thermocouple, a bad pilot light or a shut gas valve. I’ve outlined how to deal with all three earlier in the text, as well as how to deal with a faulty igniter.

Clicking While Off

However, clicking doesn’t always include the igniter. In fact, there might be a far more dangerous problem. I’ve once had to deal with water in my electrical compartments. There wasn’t a lot of it, but just enough to begin eating at the fuses and the wiring. In case this happens, paper towels and hair dryers are the way to go. I would get rid of as much moisture as I can, then proceed to replace all the fuses. Sure enough, the clicking would stop.

RV Furnace Blowing Fuses

Sometimes an RV furnace will blow a fuse while working. This is pretty standard and it only requires putting in a new fuse. But there will be times when the furnace will blow a freshly replaced fuse as well. If that happens, something else might be the problem.

In my experience, it usually comes down to faulty or loose wiring. Considering how frequently animals tend to “invade” RVs, it’s possible that a mouse or a rat might have chewed off some wiring, leaving it exposed. If it touches a different wire, it can cause a blown fuse, just like with any piece of electronic equipment. In that case, the best thing to do is to either replace the wire (or the whole mechanism) or just use electrical tape. It’s important to keep in mind that electrical tape is just a temporary solution. When it comes to the electronics, I always contact a professional. Or instead, I buy a new part for the furnace and replace the faulty one myself.

Another common issue regarding blown fuses includes the blowers. Normally, RVs have two separate blowers — for air regulation and gas removal. If either one of the two fails in some way, the fuses will keep blowing. Of course, a faulty blower must be replaced as soon as possible.

RV Furnace Drains Battery

I’ve said this before to my RVer friends, and I’ll say it again. Never, under any circumstances, go anywhere with just one furnace battery. Most of the time that one battery will run out during a cold night, and that could be troublesome.

Usually, I have at least two batteries for the furnace in my RV. That way I can charge one while using the other safely. Three batteries might be the golden standard, though, but not more than that.

Naturally, there are batteries out there that get drained pretty quickly, even in regular weather. Or they just don’t recharge properly. Most of the times, they’re just defective and require replacing. However, sometimes it’s the wiring of the furnace that’s the problem. In that case, I recommend a thorough cleaning. If the problem is worse, a technician might have to come over and take a look at it.

Will an RV Furnace Work Without a Battery?

Well, yes and no. If I plan on using my RV at home and hooking it up to shore power (i.e. my house or an outside generator), I technically don’t need a battery as a power source. However, there’s always the risk of a power outage, in which case most of the RV systems will shut down instantly.

In my opinion, there should always be a battery inside the RV furnace. A lot of RVs require a battery in their converters, as it acts as a buffer. Simply hooking them up to a shore power source won’t do any good then.

How to Check If RV Furnace Is Gas or Electric

The vast majority of RVs come with built-in propane gas furnaces. Recognizing one such furnace is simple. If there’s a propane tank, it’s probably gas-powered. But it goes a little beyond that. Propane furnaces have burners, igniters, thermostats and numerous ducts running throughout the whole RV. The reason why people still like using them is because of how reliable they can be. However, propane furnaces have their setbacks as well. Lots of excess propane gets wasted, for instance. In addition, they heat up the entire RV, which can be both good and bad. Some people prefer to have a “cooler” section of their motorhome, and the propane furnace always spreads heat evenly.

Electric furnaces are far more portable. I can take one in any section of my RV and heat whatever area I choose to. In addition, they run exclusively on electricity, so there’s no wasted energy or harmful emissions. They have their drawbacks, however. For example, most RV sites will charge the use of electricity to power the heaters. In addition, the box-heaters can tip over, and that can be a potential fire hazard. Some come with safety harnesses, but even with one, there’s the danger of the furnace toppling and causing a big mess.

Individual Brands Troubleshooting

I ought to stress that not all of the solutions above apply to all RV furnace models out there. In fact, each specific brand has its own unique issues. What follows is a brief summary of more popular brands, as well as potential places users can look to for solutions.

Jayco Furnace Troubleshooting

Jayco have been on the market since the late sixties and are normally a mark of quality. However, their furnaces tend to suffer from numerous issues listed in this text. The most common issues involve igniters, lack of heat, or even furnaces not starting. Luckily, the good people at Jayco offer customer support and have an open discussion forum. Any Jayco RV owner should pay them a visit at www.jaycoowners.com.

Keystone RV Furnace Problems

There’s really no need to introduce someone as powerful as Keystone. Just like Jayco, Keystone is a subsidiary of Thor Industries, though it’s younger than Jayco by about three decades. In fact, the Keystone forums are well known for their openness in helping their customers and fellow RV enthusiasts. They can be found at www.keystoneforums.com, with hundreds of threads discussing various RV topics.

One such topic is furnace issues. The most common ones with Keystone models appear to be intermittent heating , lack of air flow and lots of clicking noises. Most of those issues are addressed in this text. In fact, most of the solutions I myself found for these issues came from the Keystone forums.

Forest River RV Furnace Problems

Forest River shares its “birth year” with Keystone, having been founded in the mid-nineties. They specialize in motorhomes, buses, pontoon boats, and cargo trailers, among other things. And just like Keystone, they maintain a lively online presence at www.forestriverforums.com.

In terms of Forest River furnaces, they usually have issues with no ignition, cold air blowing or will simply not start. A few people even reported problems with thermostats. When compared to other manufacturers, these problems don’t seem as bad. After all, a thermostat can be easily replaced with any RV model.

Suburban RV Furnace Troubleshooting

Unlike the three manufacturers before it, Suburban Manufacturing does not have a discussion forum when it comes to its RV products. This is actually an issue, considering they specialize in products related to motorhomes, especially furnaces. However, they do offer support services throughout the United States , and the locations of these service centers can be found at this link www.airxcel.com/suburban/service-support/service-locator.

Suburban RV Furnace Not Igniting

The reason I’ve mentioned the lack of forum presence of Suburban is that the issue from this subheading is a one a LOT of Suburban users complained about. However, there are solutions to it. If I were to have an ignition problem with a Suburban RV furnace, all I’d have to do is clean up the burner and check the wiring.

Duo-Therm Furnace Troubleshooting

Duo-Therm is a company that specializes in RV furnaces. As such, it’s a common topic among online communities, considering how often RVers use their products.

Most of the issues that a Duo-Therm furnace can have involve air filters, valves, debris build-up and ignition. Most of the steps outlined earlier in the text can help maintain a Duo-Therm furnace for a very long time.

Troubleshooting Atwood RV Furnace

Atwood is probably the oldest of the manufacturers listed here, having been founded in 1909. However, Dometic became the majority owner of both Atwood and Duo-Therm, so their products are largely sold under the Dometic label.

Nevertheless, they remain popular, which is why so many people want to know how to fix their Atwood RV furnaces . These issues have already been covered and include no ignition, no heat production when on, clogged venting areas and filter problems. Luckily, most service centers handle Atwood RVs, so if troubleshooting doesn’t help, professionals will.

Summing up RV Furnaces

RV propane furnace troubleshooting is but one of many topics RVers like myself tend to talk about often. However, this isn’t without reason. Maintaining the furnace must be a priority since it provides heat for everyone within the motorhome. And without proper furnace care, an RVer’s very life can be in danger.

But it’s not all doom and gloom. Proper RV furnace maintenance can provide people with warm nights, safe winter days and an overall enjoyable motorhome experience.

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4 Common Keystone RV Furnace Problems (Troubleshooting)

So many of us love going on a camping trip with friends, family or both. Over time however, unless you are a hardened camper, the novelty can wear off. The lack of facilities or the inability to take much luggage with you can prevent you from enjoying the experience to the fullest.

It’s for exactly these reason that many people who have a genuine love of being out in nature decide to opt to purchase a motor home or recreational vehicle. They not only have plenty of storage but also provide a proper bedroom, kitchen and bathroom and just guarantee a much higher level of comfort all round.

A larger vehicle like this provides many home comforts and can truly feel like a home away from home, opening a whole heap of travel opportunities. Of course, it’s only natural that you would want to make your travelling home as comfortable and cosy as possible. For this reason, a lot of users choose to install a furnace to give them more freedom to explore further off-grid regardless of the less than favourable temperatures.

That being said, some users have reported some minor problems using their furnace . Within this article we will examine some of the most common problems and simple steps you can take to try and troubleshoot and hopefully resolve your problem .

Keystone RV furnaces are a very popular brand and the most widely installed. For this reason, this is the model we will focus on in this article.

First things first, if you are having difficulties the obvious solutions sometimes pass us by, be sure that you do have fuel for your device . If you do, then take a look at some of the possible issues, and their respective solutions below.

Keystone RV Furnace Problems

1. Fuse keeps popping out of the plug

A number of users have reported that the fuse has come out of their plug; this is a really easy fix either you can replace the plug itself , or you can try to gently squeeze the connections together slightly so that the fuse is held in position more firmly.  Hopefully, this will eradicate your problem.

2. Furnace Not Starting

One of the most common issues is simply that the furnace suddenly stops working altogether, either by cutting out, or simply that it won’t light, which is far from ideal. Both of these issues can be caused by the same issue which is a faulty connection within the furnace. 

If you feel qualified to do so, then you can start by checking over each individual connection. See if any have become disconnected or are clearly loose. If this is the case, simply put the connection back in its original location and ensure it is firmly connected once more and hopefully this will resolve your issue.

However, if you don’t feel comfortable doing this yourself, or indeed you notice that any of the wires or connections are actually damaged, then it would be prudent to contact a specialist who can remedy this problem for you.

If you are choosing the route of self-remedy then the other option open to you is to use a multi-meter to take readings on all of your wires . You are essentially checking for a stable current that always registers at 12 volts of power . Any fluctuations in the voltage or indeed a reading below 12 volts and your issue may be from the back end.

If a back-end issue is indicated, then you would need to next check that your batteries and/or generator is working properly . If not, then you will need to find a suitable troubleshooting guide to help you resolve this. Alternatively, you can take your vehicle directly to a workshop to get a professional to look at it for you.

3. Furnace lit but no heat coming out

Sometimes you may find your furnace is working but doesn’t seem to be radiating heat as you would expect. It may be a simple as the thermostat not being set to the right temperature.

It may be set to a lower temperature than the vehicle interior is currently registering. If this is the case, simply adjust the thermostat to the desired temperature and your furnace should start to produce heat.

If this still doesn’t work, then it’s quite possible there is an issue with the sensor within your furnace. Your device has a built-in sensor which will cut out the fuel supply and kill the flame if it detects there may be some issue . This is an important safety feature but if you have checked that there isn’t any actual fault, such as a flame that is too large or too small, then you will need to try cleaning the sensor .

Rub off any excess carbon build up on the sensor with a little sandpaper , and then try again. Once you have rectified this issue you need to ensure that the flame covers at least half of the sensor.

Otherwise, it may still not detect the flame. Correctly set, it should remain lit without any further assistance. If this doesn’t work, it may be that you need to have the sensor replaced.

4. Not heating properly

Another thing to check is the fan settings. If they are too low, then the heat being generated will not be circulating sufficiently . Try turning the fan up a little and see if this makes a difference.

If none of these options cures your problems, then it’s worth checking for carbon build up on any of the working components and then cleaning this off . The most common causes of trouble are the pilot light tube, the sensors, thermocouple and the gas flow restrictor valve. This should be done regularly anyway, as part of your preventative maintenance schedule. If you still cannot get your furnace to function, then your problem is a little more complicated and we would strongly advise you to seek professional guidance.

11 thoughts on “4 Common Keystone RV Furnace Problems (Troubleshooting)”

I had a problem with the furnace fuse kept kicking out. I checked all the connections I could get at and all were good. I was going to change the fuse and when I pulled it out I noticed marks on it. I was so loose I think it was arcing and kicking out. I pinched the connections a little tighter and no problem since.

My thermostat will read 60 degrees, so the furnace will continue to run and not stop and the trailer will reach 90* . or the thermostat will will read 80* and the furnace will not kick on, somedays the heater will work fine but then starts acting up again. Sofar nobody seems to be able to fix this problem, extremely frustrating. 2021 37fls keystone sprinter.

Same type of situation here, a couple times it would take it upon itself to get to 90 Now I have to turn into amd on 3-5 times for it to ignite, I have been told it is a sail switch but unlike most rvs that have an access from the exterior not this one, it’s under the closet in the bedroom

My blower will not turn on

When I turn on my heat I get heat in the living room and kitchen,, but the AC unit comes in in the rear bedroom… Anyone have any ideas on this

I need help with my Rv furnace. I have a 2018 keystone carbon toy hauler 337 my furnace will not work but the ac units will turn on the thermostat has two zones. When I go to heat the blower won’t start so the furnace won’t run. Need some kind of help. Thanks.

This is our issue too, can’t seem to find any answers

I have the same problem and the same year and model, Bought it in Aug. 2022 in TN I just wonder if it is the same unit. Every service guy wants $1,000.00 to take the heater out and repair it.

My fan won’t work in a 2012 keystone cougar 5th wheel

Is there an exterior access to the furnace of a 2015 Keystone Springdale limited edition? Please help

Anyone know how to access the sail switch without an exterior access panel? I found the reset switch behind a drawer in the kitchen but the sail switch faces exterior wall and there is no space to access.

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3 Common Forest River RV Furnace Problems (Solution)

Whether you consider yourself a camping enthusiast or not, owning an RV ( recreational vehicle ) or motorhome can always be useful. An RV is designed to give you the full comfort of a home on wheels and thus includes a kitchen, bedroom, bathroom, and all the appliances one might need on their trip. One of these other appliances, which might be considered extremely useful, is a furnace .

A furnace is a useful device, especially during low temperatures. By using them, you can quickly raise the temperature inside your RV when entering extremely cold weather. Like all other devices, a furnace may run into some issues despite its usefulness. Because of that, this article aims to offer solutions to some of the problems you might run into with your Forest River RV Furnace.

Table of Contents

How Does an RV Furnace Operate?

How an RV furnace operates depends on whether your RV thermostat only controls the furnace or if it controls the air conditioner as well. If it is the first option to turn on the furnace, you should turn the “On” setting, and if your thermostat controls both the furnace and the air conditioner, then you should turn the “Heat” setting.

Keep in mind that the furnace blower, once you’ve raised the thermostat to the desired temperature, has to run for half a minute in order to ignite the burner, and it will take 30 seconds for the blower to start functioning . The blower continues working even when the desired temperature is reached, but the burner stops periodically turning on and off as the furnace is working.

If you want to learn more about this, be sure to read How Does an RV Propane Furnace Work?

Forest River RV Furnace Problems

1. vehicle not heating.

One of the most common problems that many RV owners have is that their furnace is not heating their vehicle. As we’ve previously mentioned, it is important to use the thermostat when choosing the desired temperature. In order for the furnace to heat your vehicle to the desired temperature, you need to input it into the thermostat correctly . Whether you have a Forest River RV furnace or any other furnace, keep this in mind.

Check this great RV Furnace, then we recommend: DOMETIC Hydro Flame Corp 32715 model .

Be aware that if the temperature you input is lower than the current temperature of your RV, it might l ead to the furnace shutting off completely . This issue is also easily fixed by setting up the thermostat to the desired temperature higher than your room temperature.

A great function to use is the automatic function which automatically sets up your temperature settings depending on the room’s temperature. This will save you some time since you don’t have to manually adjust your thermostat whenever there is a temperature change or whenever you have reached the desired temperature .

2. Auto Mode Is Not Working

You might run into some issues even if you have set up your thermostat’s temperature properly. This is due to the sensitivity of your device’s temperature sensors , which can be disrupted even by a small amount of dust, but there is a very easy solution to fix this issue.

To avoid this issue, cleaning the furnace vents , including your device’s sensors, is a MUST! The easiest way to do this is by using a small pin that you insert under your device’s pinholes without using too much power since the sensors are sensitive and thus can be damaged easily. If you do, in fact, damage the sensors, the best way to replace them is by contacting the manufacturer since it is very tricky to change the sensors yourself.

3. Furnace Not Starting

The first thing you should do if your furnace isn’t starting is check your connections since this issue is, in most cases, connected to an electrical problem . If the connections are not the problem, then the issue could be caused by devices that serve as protection against electrical surges , such as the fuse or circuit breaker . Even though these devices are necessary, they can blow out, leading to your furnace being unable to start.

Devices that you can use to check your outlets are a voltmeter or multimeter , which are used to check if the electrical current flowing through the wires is sufficient. Before using these devices, be sure to check if the wiring is connected tightly. Once you’ve done all this, and if you still haven’t pinpointed the issue, check the circuit breaker , which might only be tripped, and the fuses too.

Don’t have a multimeter? Then get one now by clicking Here on Amazon .

In most electrical stores, you can find replacement parts. Be sure to check whether the voltage rating of your fuse is compatible with the fuse that was blown out to prevent any further and more dangerous issues.

RV Furnace Won’t Stay Lit? Possible problems

Another issue you might encounter is when a furnace lights up but doesn’t stay lit. If this is the problem, be sure to read the section below:

Defected Thermocouple

The thermocouple is a device that is used if your furnace comes with pilot lights . The main purpose of the thermocouple is to prevent gas leakage once the pilot light is off by shutting the gas valve. If this device malfunctions, it will not register the pilot light heat , which will lead to immediate blockade of the gas valve, preventing your furnace from working properly. Luckily, this part can be easily replaced, and you can do it on your own or with the help of a professional.

If you are looking to buy a new one, here you have the Best types of Thermocouples for your RV .

Faulty Thermostat

Replacing the thermostat with a temporary one could help you figure out if your current thermostat is actually the cause of the problem. The main issue arises if the thermostat signals to the furnace , informing it that it had reached the desired temperature even though it actually hasn’t.

Here you can buy a new RV thermostat on Amazon for a great price.

This is why it is useful to use a temporary one to check if this is the issue. If not, you should inspect other parts of the furnace or consult a professional. If the problem is resolved once you’ve installed another thermostat, purchasing a new one is a must.

Clogged Drain

A clogged drain of the condensate pan , which is a part used to collect the liquid created by the condensation within a condensing RV furnace, could cause your furnace to malfunction. The excess fluid collected by the condensate pan has to flow off somewhere; if it doesn’t, it can overflow, causing the furnace to shut down. An easy and quick solution to this problem is unclogging the drain and cleaning the pan regularly .

Blower Motor Issues

When it comes to issues connected to the blower motor, the best way to fix them is to contact a professional , but if you want to find out what the problem is, you should start up the furnace and make sure that hot air is exiting the vent by moving the hand over the supply register.

If you don’t feel any hot air, there is a number of things that might have gone wrong: the fan relay might be damaged , and the motor might be out of power , which would cause the furnace to shut down due to security issues involving overheating.

Restricted Air Flow

Restricted airflow is an issue that could lead to many more complex issues, such as the overheating of the heat exchanger and the blockade of the gas valve . Furthermore, the furnace starts to overheat, shut down, and reignite again. All this can be caused by clogged and dirty vents, registers and air ducts, and especially air filters in these parts, which should be properly maintained and often cleaned. Once you’ve cleaned your air filters , or maybe even replaced them, the problem should be solved. If the problem is still there, be sure to contact a professional.

Can RV Furnace Run Without a Filter?

One of the most important parts of a furnace is the blower fan , which is connected to an air filter , which filters the air once it has been sucked into the blower fan and forwarded to the furnace, where it heats up and then gets re-introduced into your living space .

The air filter thus prevents any debris from entering the furnace and enables your furnace to work properly . Furthermore, a clogged air filter could cause your furnace to overheat, and it would obstruct the flow of air which enters the furnace, but also the one which leaves it. Because of that, the desired temperature simply wouldn’t be reached.

For those who want to learn more, be sure to read How Long Does Propane Last in an RV?

Can a Furnace Leak Carbon Monoxide if It Is Off?

If you feel nauseous, fatigued, dizzy, or have a headache, you might be suffering from carbon monoxide poisoning. However, an RV furnace cannot leak carbon monoxide if you are not using it , leaks from other appliances could be pulled into the furnace, causing the gas to circulate your living space.

Carbon monoxide is created when wood, oil, kerosene, propane, natural gas, or oil go through the chemical reaction of incomplete burning. The symptoms above could be accommodated by loss of coordination , blackouts, vomiting, or disorientation.

If you don’t have a Carbon Monoxide detector in your RV, then get one by clicking Here on Amazon .

To prevent issues relating to carbon monoxide, which is a common byproduct of furnaces, be sure to have the furnace installed by experts , invest money into a carbon monoxide detector, and have your furnace checked out by experts as often as you can.

FAQ: People Also Ask

How to reset an RV furnace?

When trying to reset an RV furnace, be careful not to get burned. First, you should shut down the breaker located in the circuit box . That way you’ll cut the power supply to the furnace. Next, push the reset button located in the blower compartment of the blower motor.

Why Is My RV furnace only blowing cold air?

This is caused by the ignition switch which has been blocked by dust particles , your pet’s fur or even debris which has been blown into the furnace or has accumulated due to the RV not being used. If the ignition switch isn’t cleaned, the furnace won’t ignite properly and due to the low temperature of the furnace, the air it circulates will be cold.

Can You manually light the RV furnace?

Yes, some furnaces even have a striker ignition device, but a furnace can also be lit up with matches or a lighter. To light your furnace, go to the access panel and remove the cover of your furnace. The gas dial should be in the pilot position after which you hold down the knob and light the furnace with the aforementioned devices.

Final Thoughts

If you follow our tips, your problems should be solved easily, but don’t be scared of simply replacing a part which you might think is faulty. Most of these problems can be resolved on your own, but if you don’t manage to pinpoint the issue, consult a professional. I hope that this article has helped you and if you have any additional questions about the RV furnace feel free to comment below.

Mario Poljak is the owner and founder of Outdoor Hacker. He is an avid outdoors enthusiast who loves camping, RVs, and other outdoor activities. With his experiences and knowledge in this area, he has decided to share everything he has learned in the last 10 years.

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• Travel Trailer

Jayco jayflight heater not working

By Riahl January 11, 2020 in Travel Trailer

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Hello I was hoping to get some help. We have a 2008 jayco jayflight travel trailer. We are plugged in to a hookup. We are currently living in the trailer and the first month or two the heater worked great. But then all of a sudden it stopped.  I can hear the fan turn on and it tries to click to turn on the burner but won't start. And it'll keep trying then the fan will turn off. Then back on and start trying to run again but won't. So we stopped trying and have been using a plug in heater. We are still freezing. So I tried just yesterday to get the heater working again and it worked all day, all night and half today. Now it's back to the fan turning on but clicking and wont ignite. I switched propane tanks and nothing. I don't know a lot about travel trailers and I need help. Dumb it down if you can. I'm freezing! Thank you.

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Had same problem with friends trailer, was a problem with the ignightor spacing. If you don't have experience with heaters and trailers it would be best to get professional help.  Where are you located and what temps outside are you having.  Wish I could be of more help. 

It would help to know what brand and model your furnace is, but it does sound like it is probably a bad igniter probe. It may be just dirty, but replacing it would be a better bet. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers. Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

• 1 month later...

We had the same issue under warranty, at least the first time.  The igniters sagged so the tech who worked on it just readjusted them.  The second time it turns out spider webs were blocking some sort of air flow gauge.  That one wasn't on warranty.

You might just head over to the Jayco owners forum, the guys should give you some good info.  It could be the sail switch. 

• 4 months later...

SAIL SWITCH !!!

Easy to replace

Call mobil rv tech if it is too difficult for you

or look on youtube...many videos

I always keep a supply of stimulant handy in case I see a snake----which I also keep handy. 2012 Ram 2500 Cummins 6.7L CCLWB 2019 Airstream 25FB

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10 Reasons Your RV Hot Water Heater Isn’t Working & How to Fix

• Last Updated: March 27, 2024
• 16 minutes read

Even when you are connected to a campground’s fresh water hookups, you still rely on your RV’s water heater to provide you with the hot water you need to take a shower, wash dishes, and clean your greasy hands.

Unfortunately, a lot of RV water heaters are relatively small, they go through a lot of abuse in their lives and it’s all too easy to forget about them in your general maintenance routine. there’s no hot water in your RV

Did you just turn on the taps, only to be left wondering why your hot water heater isn’t working? Whether you’re left with lukewarm water or no hot water at all in your camper, it can be a frustrating experience.

After all, nobody enjoys the surprise of a bone-chilling, teeth-chattering cold shower, especially during the colder months.

If so, the first things to check are the circuit panel and/or fuse box to make sure it has the power needed to spark or that the electrical element didn’t trip a breaker. If you have a propane water heater, you should also check to make sure the gas valve is open.

While these are the two most common and simplest fixes, they certainly aren’t the only reasons why your hot water heater isn’t working.

In order to restore your hot water as quickly as possible, we need to delve a bit deeper into how RV water heaters work, some of the potential problems that can cause them to fail, and provide you with a comprehensive troubleshooting guide to help you diagnose and resolve the problem with your unit.

How Does An RV Water Heater Work?

Some RV water heaters use internal electric elements to heat the water inside the small, insulated tank. Though propane still tends to be the more common fuel for rapidly heating hot water. Especially in an RV with large liquid propane tanks. Still, even propane water heaters tend to need an electric spark ignition system to start the heating process.

A lot of propane water heaters have some type of pilot light or a newer direct spark ignition system to start the flame that heats the water in the tank. As you use it the hot water that’s drawn out is replaced by cold fresh water. This means you’ll need to give the water heater time to fully warm this new volume before you’ll have hot water on demand again. The larger the tank, the longer it will take to reheat the water. Though propane water heaters tend to heat the same volume of water nearly twice as fast as electrical elements.

An electric water heater essentially has a large electrical resistor at the bottom of it, sealed inside a waterproof housing. Electrical current is impeded as it passes through the electric element, which creates thermal energy that conducts heat into the water. However, this process is slower and can increase the chances of sediment deposits building up inside the hot water storage tank.

10 Common Reasons Why Your camper’s water heater Isn’t Doing So Hot

Beyond seemingly simple things like tripped breakers and closed gas valves, there are a few other prime candidates that might be causing your RV’s water heater to fail.

Accurately troubleshooting the cause is best done with a methodical approach, while taking into account the symptoms of the problem.

Even if it ends up being something you can’t fix on your own, knowing why your RV’s water heater isn’t working might help save you some money on the professional repair bill.

1. A Breaker Might Have Tripped or a Fuse Burned Out

If you have an electric water heater in your RV it can draw a lot of power. If there’s a minor power surge from something like a shore power pedestal, it can trip a breaker or blow out a fuse. When this happens the heater will be dead, as well as anything else connected to that circuit. Though a lot of RV manufacturers give an electric water heater its own dedicated circuit.

If you reset the breaker or replace the fuse and it immediately goes out again, then you should be highly suspicious of a wiring problem. A short in a wire or a loose connection that causes arcing can just as easily trip a circuit breaker.

It’s also worth remembering that a lot of modern propane water heaters still need a small amount of electricity to power the spark ignition system or auto-lighting pilot light. These circuits often have more than one thing connected to them, which can increase the risk of an accidental overload that might trip a breaker or burn out a fuse. So, you still can’t completely rule out a minor electrical problem at the circuit panel, just because you have a propane water heater in your RV.

2. The Manual Gas Valve Is Closed or a Problem With Propane System

All propane RV water heaters have a primary gas valve that needs to be manually opened and closed. This valve is usually found on the exterior side of the RV and might also be near a propane water heater that uses a standing pilot light. Check this valve from the exterior hatch to make sure it’s on. If you have a slightly older water heater in your RV you might need to manually light the pilot light again.

If you checked the manual gas valve and it was open, but the pilot light won’t light or you aren’t getting any gas flowing to the burner element, you might have a problem with your propane system. A kink in the line or forgetting to open the main gas valve on the front tanks might seem like a silly mistake, but you won’t be the first or 100 th person to make it!

3. Check The RV House Batteries or The Shore Power Connection

If you have an electric water heater in your RV or you have a newer propane water heater with a direct spark ignition system, a problem with the RV’s house batteries or the shore power connection will interrupt the heating process in the tank.

In a case like this, you will notice other electrical issues throughout the RV. The entire RV might not have power despite the breakers being connected. If the house batteries are below 50% or there is a lot of corrosion buildup on the terminals the lights in your RV might be dim or flickering, and there simply isn’t enough power to run an electric element of a DSI in the RV’s water heater.

You’ll have to either recharge your house batteries, use a generator, or talk to the campground hosts about fixing whatever the problem is with the shore power pedestal.

4. The Bypass Valves Might Still Be Closed

A lot of time the process of draining and sanitizing your RV water system when winterizing can your RV calls for closing the bypass valve. This prevents new water from flowing back into the water heater once drained. It’s a simple mistake that’s made by many people in the spring when they rush to get their RV ready and forget to reopen the valve.

Check the bypass valves to make sure that they’re in the correct position to deliver hot water and refill the tank with fresh water!

5. Igniter Might Not Be Centered

A DSI (Direct Spark Igniter) needs to be centered and perfectly in position to start the propane combustion process at the base of the water heater. If you have a bad habit of packing things into the same compartment as the RV water heater, it’s entirely possible that the DSI was bumped or bent. If it’s just a few millimeters out of position, it might be too far away from the propane burner to support ignition.

In a case like this, the DSI might spark when you turn the water heater on, and the gas is running normally, with the valve open, but the two won’t come together to support ignition. If it looks to be a little off-center or you can see a bend in the wire housing, try manually adjusting it with a pair of needle nose pliers. Then restart the water heater and watch to see if the spark and gas combine properly.

6. Dust & Debris Might Be Clogging the Burner Element

If your propane water heater is lighting but it goes out again it might simply be that there’s dust and other debris that’s preventing the burner from working efficiently. Some even have a safety system built into them that will arrest the flame. Though it’s often that dust, soot, or cobwebs are partially clogging the burner element.

If your burner looks dirty, and won’t stay lit despite all the other systems working correctly, you can clean it using the following steps.

• Step One: Turn off the circuit breaker to the water heater, and follow any other model-specific shutdown instructions in the owner’s manual.
• Step Two: Carefully remove the cover panel shielding the burner
• Step Three: Take a picture of the burner assembly with your phone before disconnecting it from the gas valve.
• Step Four: Locate and remove the combustion door.
• Step Five: Slide the entire burner assembly out.
• Step Six: Use canned air or an air compressor sprayer to blow out any dust or soot. If it’s caked on, you might need to gently scrub it with an old toothbrush.
• Step Seven: Reassemble the burner, element using your earlier photo as a guide. Make sure to install the combustion door as well.
• Step Eight: Turn the circuit breaker for the RV water heater back on and test to see that the DSI lights the element and that it remains burning on its own for several minutes.

7. The Hi-Limit/ECO Button Needs To Be Reset

Most RV water heaters have aHi-Limit/Emergency Cut-Off switch. It essentially serves as a fail-safe safety system that shuts off the water heater when the thermostat can’t keep the temperature below a set point. This prevents some of the catastrophic overheating you’ve probably seen replicated on TV science shows.

When the Hi-Limit ECO shuts the water heater down it won’t turn back on until the temperature inside the reservoir cools. Then you need to press the orange or red button to reset your RV’s hot water heater. Most RV water heaters hide the reset button under a metal plate on the backside of the tank or near the thermostat.

Sometimes there are two buttons. One for the electric DSI element, and one for the propane burner. If your model does have two buttons, be sure to reset each.

8. Your Thermostat Might Be Bad

Let’s say you find the Hi-Limit/ECO button, you press it and after a half hour or so, you have warm water again. Then an hour or two goes by and the water is running cold. So, you go back, press the button again, and everything seems to be working. Only to rinse and repeat a few hours later with cold water and an inert RV water heater.

In a scenario like this, you’re probably dealing with a bad thermostat on your RV water heater. Most people choose to call in a professional repairman at this point.

If you happen to be mechanically adept, you can easily find the replacement thermostat and if you have the right electrical tools for the job, you might be able to replace your RV water heater’s thermostat with the following steps.

• Step One: Turn off the RV water heater at the circuit breaker and follow any other specific shutdown instructions in the owner’s manual. 
• Step Two: Locate the thermostat housing and remove the cover plate. You might have to also pull back some insulation.
• Step Three: Use a voltmeter or a multi-meter to make sure there isn’t any residual electrical charge in the thermostat.
• Step Four: Take a picture of how everything is connected to your phone to use as a possible reference later.
• Step Five: Find the mounting bracket that holds the thermostat in place. Carefully pry one side of the bracket and gently twist the water heater thermostat up. This willkeep the bracket from locking in place again. Then repeat this for the other side to fully release the thermostat.
• Step Six: Disconnect the wire leads from the thermostat, and carefully lay it off to the side. Check for any signs of arcing or burned-out wiring. If there was a short circuit, you might have to replace the wiring before you can install the replacement thermostat.
• Step Seven: If all is good with the wiring, you can connect the replacement thermostat and reinstall it in the reverse order that you took the old one out. You can use the photo you took earlier as a guide.
• Step Eight: Leave the housing open, turn the circuit breaker back on, and reset the Hi-Limit/ECO button if necessary. Then watch the water heater and thermostat to make sure everything is working correctly.
• Step Nine: With the test cycle successful, you can secure the access panel, and use the water heater normally.

9. The Thermocouple Is Preventing the Pilot Light from Staying Lit

If you have an older RV the water heater might use a pilot light to maintain an on-demand flame status. Sometimes the pilot light can go out. Especially if you recently had to change out a propane tank. Though it’s also possible that you have a bunch of dust and soot buildup around your water heater’s propane burner element to let the pilot light burn efficiently.

Most of the time, you simply need to relight it. If it won’t stay lit then you might need to clean and inspect the pilot light and the thermocoupleusing the following steps.

• Step One: Access the pilot light. In some models, this calls for removing an access panel.
• Step Two: Visually inspect the thermocouple sitting near the pilot light. It looks like a little metal probe with an independent wire connected to the back of it.
• Step Three: If the thermocouple is dusty, you might be able to clean it with cotton swabs and a neutral cleaner. If it has burn marks on it, then it likely needs to be replaced by a professional.
• Step Four: Locate the fasteners holding the pilot light burner and tube in place. If you can’t clean the pilot light while it’s in position, you’ll have to back these fasteners out and pull the entire pilot light assembly out.
• Step Five: Clean the pilot light assembly and tube with canned air, an air compressor, and other soft tools. You don’t want to clean too aggressively and accidentally damage the pilot light components.
• Step Six: Reinstall the pilot light, and turn on the circuit breaker and the propane supply. Then test to see if the pilot light stays lit.

10. Your Electric Water Heater’s Element Is Bad

If you have an electric water heater in your RV and you’ve tested out all the other possibilities, it might simply be that the element inside is dead or dying. They have a limited lifespan, and the heavy usage they tend to go through in an RV can accelerate their demise.

Signs that your RV’s electric water heater element is bad often include things like:

• Frequent problems with lukewarm water
• Small amounts of hot water that then run cold
• Hot water running out faster than usual
• The water heater’s fuse keeps burning out or the circuit breaker constantly trips

Most of the time it’s more cost-effective to simply buy a new water heater than it is to pay a professional to repair it. Though you still want to make sure that the element is actually bad before you chuck the water heater and start shopping for a new one. This requires some basic tools, a multimeter, and the following steps.

• Step One: Turn off the circuit breaker and follow all other shutdown instructions in your owner’s manual.
• Step Two: Remove the metal sheath encasing the electric water heater’s tank.
• Step Three: Remove some of the insulation until you find the electric heating element.
• Step Four: Double-check that all the electricity is off
• Step Five: Use a multimeter to test the voltage of the element. If it isn’t giving you reading or the reading is intermittent, then the element is likely dead, and you need to source a new one.

The sad truth is that most RV water heaters have a hard life and need routine maintenance to keep them running in peak condition. This includes cleaning away dust and soot from the burner element as well as the pilot light. While you’re inspecting and cleaning, take the time to make sure that your water bypass valves are open.

Make sure that your gas valves on the main liquid propane tanks and the water heater are also open to provide a vigorous flame. If you have a propane water heater and you’ve been using the water heater compartment for storage, take a moment to check the DSI to make sure that the spark is close enough to the burner element. It might simply have been bumped and needs to be gently realigned.

If these relatively simple measures don’t get your RV’s water heater working, you might need to dig a little deeper. Reset the Hi-Limit/ECO button and test your thermostat. If this doesn’t restore consistent hot water, you might need to replace the thermostat altogether. If you have an electric water heater, you should also take the time to check the element with a multimeter. It’s worth checking before you completely replace the thermostat. If the element is dead or dying, you might want to consider simply buying a replacement water heater for your RV.

About Author / Aaron Richardson

Aaron Richardson is an expert RVer and the co-founder of RVing Know How. Aaron, along with his wife Evelyn, has been living and traveling in their Keystone Fuzion RV since 2017. Their adventures span across the country and beyond, including memorable RVing experiences in Mexico. Aaron's passion for the outdoors and RVing shines through in his writings, where he shares a blend of travel stories, practical tips, and insights to enhance the RV lifestyle.

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RV Water Heater Troubleshooting Made Easy

• Description

Nothing can spoil a great trip faster than going to wash off the dirt of a hard day’s play and finding that you only have cold water because the water heater in your recreational vehicle is not working properly. This is even more annoying if you are relatively new to the recreational vehicle life and have no knowledge of RV water heater troubleshooting methods or how your hot water system functions.

No matter what your mechanical skill level is, RV water heater troubleshooting does not have to be difficult. In fact, with the help of this expert-taught, step-by-step video you can enjoy the satisfaction of both a hot shower and the knowledge that you discovered what was causing your RV water heater malfunction in the first place. And the best part of all, you don’t need to worry about taking your RV into a shop and waiting days to hear back. You can get the job done in your driveway, and likely for much cheaper!

Every step is covered and easy to understand from making sure that your system has the fuel and power it requires to checking that connections and components are working properly. With just a few short minutes of your valuable time, this video will explain how the water heater system on an Atwood RV is designed to function, then proceed to help you to diagnose your problem in a safe, efficient manner.

How to Diagnose Your Water Heater’s Issue

To help you get your water heater system back up and running like new, RV maintenance and repair expert Dave Solberg walks you through a quick inspection and explanation of each component. First things first, you should check that gas is coming through to your appliances. Light the stovetop burner and look for a steady flow with a solid flame. Next, use a voltage meter to check the input to the heater, which should be at least 10.5 volts.

If that is the case and you are receiving sufficient voltage, you’ll then use a test light to work your way from the thermostat back to the coil. Dave explains what you should do if power isn’t reaching the thermostat (e.g. replacing a broken fusible link). Now, say you start up the system but you don’t hear a click. This likely means the coil is broken and needs to be repaired or replaced. If you do hear a click but don’t get a flame, you might have a clogged orifice or bad valve. These can easily be cleaned and/or replaced.

The last step of the RV water heater troubleshooting process is to turn off the LP system to check for a spark. If you don’t get a spark, your system could have an electrode that is bent or carbon grounding. Again, easy fix, quick solution. Okay, but what if you get through each of these steps and still can’t figure out what’s wrong? Please leave us a message or email your problem! We’ll be happy to work it through with you to find the right answer.

How RV Repair Club Makes Maintenance Simple

Clear, easy-to-follow video and dialogue make it easy to determine what replacement component or repair work will be needed to make your water heater fully operational once again. Stop and start this RV water heater troubleshooting video at key points or back it up or fast forward it to quickly find the information you need.

You can even watch this informative video on your smart phone or tablet as you examine your system, so that you can easily differentiate between the various components, wires and connections and refer back to the screen each step of the way. We also recommend that you go back through the RV Repair Club archives to discover more troubleshooting tips for your water heater and other essential components of your vehicle. We cover all of the bases, and release new videos weekly to answer all of your RV maintenance and repair questions, such as in-depth guides to understanding your RV plumbing and water systems .

What’s more, unlike some RV water heater troubleshooting videos of lesser quality, you won’t have to endure annoying advertisements or attempts at humor when all you really want is a hot shower. Ready, set, troubleshoot your RV’s hot water system now!

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