best time to visit shetland for wildlife

Discovering Shetland’s Wildlife: A Visitor’s Guide

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The Shetlands are a group of islands in the far northern reaches of the UK between Orkney and Norway. This is the most northerly point in the UK and, owing to its remote location, receives fewer than 100,000 visitors each year.

Still, this unique location is well worth checking out because of its breathtaking landscapes and amazing wildlife. It’s situated around 110 miles from mainland Scotland but is still part of this country. Yet, you may feel like you’re on another planet thanks to the dramatic landscapes made up of rugged cliffs alongside beautiful beaches as well as moorlands and peaceful lochs.

The beauty of the Shetland Islands is that it is largely untouched and so remains in its stunning natural state. What’s more, the islands offer an amazing chance to see the cultural diversity of the UK since people here are heavily influenced by Norse traditions. While you’re here, it would be a crime not to try the local cuisine, consisting of seafood, tattie soup, beef, and reestit mutton.

With a strong Norse heritage, the Shetlands are a wonderful place for history lovers. Many years ago, Scandinavian resources began to run low, so Vikings headed to the Shetlands for farming but also as a base for piracy.

In terms of wildlife, the Shetlands are one of the most diverse and interesting places in the UK. With lots of rugged coastlines, it’ll come as no surprise that there is an abundance of seabirds here, including puffins, which have strong populations on Hermaness and Noss.

Along these same coastlines, visitors have the chance to spot whales, seals, dolphins, otters, and many other creatures, including several species of migratory birds, which make a stopover on the islands as they head south.

You may have heard of the Shetland pony which, as its name suggests, inhabits these islands. There is also an abundance of deer, primarily found in the uplands.

And it isn’t just fauna that will get wildlife lovers excited, for those with a penchant for plant life, the Shetlands offers some excellent opportunities to get up close to species like sea thrift and sea pink. There are around 400 plant species on the islands, including rowan trees, sea campion, and roseroot.

Types of Wildlife to See

The Shetland Islands are an amazing place to spot coastal and marine wildlife, and one of the biggest attractions are the puffin colonies. It’s thought that there are as many as 23,000 on Hermaness alone, and the great news is that they’re very unafraid of humans. However, I still strongly recommend respecting them and observing from a distance. As well as puffins, you’ll have the chance to spot several other species of seabird, such as razorbills, fulmars, and guillemots.

Staying around the coast, you’ll be treated to frequent seal sightings, with the gray and common seals being the most often observed here. There are also many species of whales and dolphins in the waters around the islands, and boat excursions offer a wonderful way to spot orcas, humpbacks, and the common dolphin.

Otters are also a common sight along the Shetland coasts as they spend a lot of time here looking for fish. There are even  otter tours  available that teach you some wonderful things about these playful creatures.

The Shetlands are a bird lover’s haven because there are so many species here. Aside from the famous puffins, you’ll also spot arctic terns that migrate between here and the Antarctic on a whopping  22,000 mile  journey! Around the water you’ll also spot many other species of water birds, including the red-throated diver, the common loon, and the whooper swan. 

Birds of prey are also abundant here, including owls, eagles, and merlins. However, there are also many migratory species that will pass through the islands, including the hen harrier and the common buzzard.

If you’re keen to spot rare avian species, then Shetland offers a chance to experience the corncrake, a small species of rail bird that’s now only found in a few locations around the UK.

As I mentioned earlier, Shetland is famous for its ponies, which can often be seen grazing around the coast as well as in fields and grasslands. The ponies, while seemingly free, are actually owned by local tenders and, every August, there is a pony show which attracts a lot of visitors. While they can be seen all over the Shetlands, the best islands are Mainland, Urst, Tingwall, and Dunrossness. On Mainland Shetland, you may also have the chance to spot the red deer.

With more than 400 plant species on Shetland, including goosegrass, silverweed, sea sandwort, and yarrow, the Shetlands are a great place for exploring flora. What’s wonderful about this diverse array is that it also attracts insect and pollinator populations, including rare species like the large tiger hoverfly that have specially adapted to the islands’ conditions. You may also spot insect-life among the heather covered hills that dot the landscape.

And it’s not just flora and fauna that can be spotted here; the Shetlands are one of the best places to see the Aurora Borealis outside of the Arctic Circle. Yes, the Shetlands lie close to the Arctic Circle but are actually just 400 miles outside of it.

Best Time to Visit

Between April and June many of the migratory birds come back to the islands, including the famous puffins, so this is a great time to watch them get into breeding season. This is the case with many other seabirds, so is a great time to visit for ornithology lovers.

Summer falls between July and August, but average temperatures here are still only around 13ºC, so bring a jacket! However, at this time, the puffins are at their most active and other marine life, like seals , can often be spotted with their young.

At the beginning of autumn, between September and October, the seabirds begin migrating south, so there’s a lot of activity. What’s more, fewer people tend to visit at this time of the year, so you’ll have more of the islands to explore in peace.

Otters are often at their most active in early fall, and as we move into late fall, we see many migratory birds passing through.

If you’re coming to the Shetlands to see the Northern Lights then winter is one of the best times. The nights are much longer at this time of the year, so there’s a greater chance of catching this natural light show.

Other Times to Visit

While the Shetlands doesn’t receive as many visitors as other places in the UK, that doesn’t mean it’s not an incredibly welcoming place to go. In fact, there are events running throughout the year, such as guided tours, festivals, and even the  Shetland Wool Week  which draws a lot of attention.

What to Explore?

• Exploring the flora: To see the most diverse range of plant life, I would recommend checking out the botanical gardens. You might also visit Lea Gardens in Tresta which is one of the most impressive gardens in the Shetlands. In spring, the islands come alive as various species of wildflowers start to bloom.
• Explore history: Shetland has a rich history dating back thousands of years, and Jarlshof is one of the top historical sites here. This prehistoric settlement allows you to explore more than 4000 years of history on the islands and has many interesting ruins.
• Hop between islands: While only 16 of the Shetlands are inhibited, there are actually 100 islands within this group. Fair Isle can be accessed via ferry and is a great place for bird lovers with some unique species, including the arctic tern. There are ferries that go to many of the islands, although some are harder to access. For example, Mousa can only be accessed in summer using the Mousa Boat .
• Birdwatching: It’s evident that seabirds and waterbirds are in abundance in the Shetlands, and one of the best places to see them is at the Hermaness National Nature Reserve. With lots of cliffs and moorlands, you’ll have the chance to spot various species. Other noteworthy places for birdwatching include RSPB Sumburgh Head, St Ninian’s Isle (especially for wading birds) and the islands’ many heathlands. The island of Fetlar is considered to be one of the best places to spot wetland birds, and there are regular ferries for easy access.
• Take a wildlife tour: One of the best ways to see the Shetland wildlife is by taking a tour. From island trails to otter tracking or even a seal, whale or dolphin spotting trip, there’s something for everyone.
• Nature reserves: The Shetlands is home to several nature reserves, including Voe on the mainland, which contains various habitats like woodlands, wetlands, and moorlands and is home to many species, including birds and otters.
• Spot the ponies: It’s estimated that there are around 1000 ponies on the Shetlands and these are managed by around 170 people. You’re most likely to spot them in fields and around the coast where they’ll be grazing. They are more common on Mainland, Urst, Dunrossness, and Tingwall.
• Local events: As I mentioned earlier, the Shetland Wool Week is one of the biggest attractions of the year, but there are many other local events taking place all the time. These include the Lerwick Up Helly Aa and the Shetland Boat Week. Check the calendar before you travel to see what’s on.
• Local landscapes: The Shetlands are, surprisingly, home to white sandy beaches along the beautiful ancient coastlines. Sandwick and Hillswick are of particular note. However, you might also check out the Shetland Geopark, which is home to ancient rock formations and provides guests with information on the volcanic history of the islands.
• Take the car:  For a free day trip, why not take a scenic drive around the islands? This is a great way to see much of the stunning landscape and wildlife this location has to offer.

How to Get There?

Public Transport

• Once you are on your chosen island, there are several bus services that will take you between wildlife viewing locations and some of the rural villages.
• While there are no public train services on the islands, you can catch a train to Aberdeen and take a ferry from there.
• Accessing the Shetlands via plane can be done by booking a flight from Scotland to Sumburgh Airport, which is located on Mainland.
• Flights to Sumburgh can be taken from major Scottish cities, including Glasgow, Aberdeen, and Edinburgh.
• Some islands, like Tingwall and Fair Isle have small airports which can be used for island hopping.
• Ferries from mainland Scotland run daily to the Shetlands.
• You can catch a ferry from Aberdeen or Scrabster to the capital of the Shetlands, Lerwick.
• When traveling by ferry, be sure to look out for marine life which is often spotted.
• Once on the islands, ferries run between them allowing for a better chance to explore.
• Be sure to book in advance to avoid disappointment, as spots on the ferry are limited and can get busy during peak season.

Where to Stay

There aren’t a huge amount of accommodation choices in the Shetlands, but some of the best islands to base yourself include:

Other Considerations

• Public transport, flights, and ferries may be affected by extreme weather conditions. While winters are much milder than you might think, some locations do get a lot of snow. In fact, Baltasound, Urst receives as much as 65 days of snow each year.
• Before traveling, be sure to check local information for any important things you might need to be aware of.
• Because of the unpredictable weather and risk of travel plans changing when visiting Shetland, it may be worth getting a special type of travel insurance that covers this.
• By booking with a tour operator, you may have the chance to combine your travel with wildlife tours and other events.

Karen writes professionally, and she is also a published author. She has a passion for the outdoors and tries to spend as much of her free time out in nature.

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Mini-Guide to Puffins now available BUY IT HERE

Meandering Wild

A guide to wildlife on the Shetland Islands

Situated in the cold, remote waters north of Scotland, more than 100 islands make up this sub-arctic archipelago. Shetland harbours some of Britain’s most abundant and diverse wildlife. This isolated archipelago provides an undisturbed haven for iconic northern species.

Each summer, over one million seabirds flock to the towering sea cliffs blanketing the islands. Wave after wave of gannets, puffins, guillemots, and razorbills arrive from their southern and Atlantic wintering grounds to breed. The cacophonous colonies and whirling murmurations of seabirds resting on sheer cliffs and rocky outcrops provide endless opportunities to observe iconic northern species.

Otters also thrive in the frigid but food-rich waters around Shetland, with densities greater than anywhere else in Europe. These charismatic creatures can be spotted with patience, whether hunting along the coastline or engaging in playful antics with their young.

Seeking solitude from human disturbance, northern gannets, red-throated divers, greylag geese, and a host of waders migrate to Shetland. Rugged shorelines, dotted with jewel-like lochs, shelter these summer visitors or overwintering species.

With its extreme isolation and abundance of fish, Shetland remains a true wilderness refuge . Nowhere else in Britain can match the diversity and concentrations of wildlife found in this archipelago, a hidden gem for nature enthusiasts and photographers.

Wildlife in Shetland

Shetland is a dream for birdlife and sea mammals with many transient visitors as well as permanent residents. When driving around the islands there will be wildlife on gate posts and pottering along the side of the road. Keep an eye and an ear out for golden plover, red-necked phalarope, snipe and curlew who can all be seen across the islands.

It is just a matter of keeping your eyes open and your camera ready . Dolphins, pilot whales and orcas are seen on a regular basis off the coast throughout the year. More unusual visitors may arrive along the coast and recent visitors include rosy starlings, snow geese, bearded seals and a very lost walrus.

As well as mammals and birds, Shetland has a large number of wildflowers . In the summer the meadows and cliff tops are awash with colour including bright pink sea thrift, white bog cotton and yellow iris.

The fulmar ( Fulmarus glacialis ) is one of the most commonly seen birds on the Shetland Islands and while it may look like a ‘seagull’ it has some special features. The fulmar is a member of the petrel family and excretes an oily, noxious substance when it feels threatened. The beak has a tubular structure on the top mandible that excretes salt. These seabirds spend much of their life on the open ocean and only return to land to nest. These are mainly seen during the spring and summer riding the updrafts on the cliffs.

Where to see fulmar: the cliffs around the Knab in Lerwick are full of fulmars as well as the bird cliffs at Sumburgh Head .

Puffins ( Fratercula artica ) are summer visitors to the Shetland Islands and nest in the sandy cliff tops. Their burrows are re-used year after year and their return each summer is almost guaranteed within a few days. The puffins can be seen returning to their burrows with sand eels and their antics can provide hours of entertainment and photography opportunities.

Where to see puffins on Shetland: Puffins can be found on the cliffs at Hermaness Nature Reserve , Sumburgh Head and on the island of Noss off Bressay .

Want to know more about puffins in the UK?

Mini-guide to Puffins in the UK

This ebook includes information about the puffin colonies, where to find them and how to visit responsibly. With 20 pages of information, maps and beautiful photographs, it will help you see the puffins on your next summer adventure in the UK.

Seals are common all around the coast of Shetland. They haul out on the rocks and slipways and can often be seen bobbing just off the coast watching what is going on. Both grey seals ( Halichoerus grypus ) and common seals ( Phoca vitulin ) can be seen living together although the common seals are more common.

Common seals have a more rounded face and shorter nose with a mottled appearance. The grey seals have a longer face and a ‘harder’ appearance.

Where to look for seals on Shetland : All around the coast of Shetland is a chance to see seals. They can often be seen around slipways in the villages and in Lerwick harbour.

Otters ( Lutra lutra ) are found all along the coast of Shetland. They can be hard to find but with good fieldcraft and patience, it is possible to find them. Some are more confiding and can be seen running along the harbour walls and jetties. Nothing beats queuing for a ferry and realising there is an otter on the beach. The otters are easily spooked so keeping hidden is the only way to watch and photograph these amazing mammals. A local guide can make finding the otters much easier, especially if you have limited time on the islands.

Where to see otters on Shetland: Otters are everywhere on Shetland. Keep your eyes open while driving along the coast for their heads in the sea. They will usually swim to shore with a catch so watch out for their bow wave.

Black Guillemot

This amazing sea bird has a distinct black and white appearance which is offset by their bright red mouth. These small seabirds are found on the rockier sea cliffs and live in small colonies. Their favoured habitat makes them hard to approach. The black guillemot ( Cepphus grylle ) are distinct in behaviour and appearance from the common guillemot.

Where to find black guillemot on Shetland: these elusive birds congregate in small colonies. Look out for rocky shores where they have plenty of nooks to nest in.

Arctic tern

The Arctic tern ( Sterna paradisaea ) is one of the many seabird species that flock to breed on Shetland each summer, undertaking an epic migration that sees them travel from Antarctica to the northern islands. These marathon flyers make a 24,000-mile round trip each year in pursuit of endless daylight and abundant marine life.

Skilful aerialists, Arctic terns can be seen acrobatically plunge-diving for fish and aggressively defending their nesting territories from human disturbance or predatory gulls. Photographing their graceful flight patterns and capturing close-up shots of these hardy birds in their summer breeding plumage is a much sought-after wildlife photography opportunity in Shetland.

Where to find arctic terns on Shetland: There are a number of arctic tern colonies on the islands. You will know when you are near one as the terns will ambush you. Local guides will take you to the colonies if you want to photograph their aerial displays.

Great Skua – ‘ Bonxie’

The Great Skua ( Stercorrius skua ) or Bonxie as it is known locally is a large predatory bird. It is aggressive and lives up to its name as the “Pirate of the Seas”, mugging other birds for food. They will also kill smaller birds like puffins and shearwaters and steal eggs from nests on the cliffs. They are not afraid to dive-bomb humans and their loud calling can be intimidating as you walk along the cliffs.

Where to find great skua on Shetland: these birds can be seen across the islands but their stronghold is on Unst. Hermaness Nature Reserve is one of their nesting areas so keep an eye out as you walk the boardwalks to the cliffs.

The gannet ( Morus bassanus ) is a large and elegant seabird. They have a complex courtship which can be seen on the precarious cliff ledges that they use for their nests. Their nests are built from seaweed in the same spot year after year and many over the last few years are now incorporating more and more plastic debris and discarded fishing nets and ropes. The colonies in which they build their nests are a living and breathing mass of feathers.

These stunning birds have a dark yellow colouration to the head with pure white plumage and black tips to the wings. Their large webbed feet have superb green stripes and a blue outer ring surrounds each eye. The young gannets have a black-and-white mottled appearance on their backs.

Best places to see gannets on Shetland : Gannets can be seen at Hermaness Nature Reserve on the cliffs to the left of the boardwalk and on the Island of Noss. If you want to photograph the gannets diving on Noss then a tour with a photographer is the only way to achieve these amazing photographs.

Shetland Ponies

All over Shetland you will see ponies. These are hardy little souls who are out in all weathers. They are usually smaller than other ponies, especially the miniature Shetland ponies. Whatever their size they are stocky with short legs and the most amazing manes.

Finding Shetland ponies: Shetland ponies can be seen across the islands in fields and along the coastline. Always remember that their fields are private property and you should not feed the ponies. You should always park sensibly and be aware of your surroundings. For a guaranteed and personal experience, the Shetland Pony Experience is worth a visit.

Wildlife photography on the Shetland Islands

The wildlife in Shetland is often a distance from a safe area. This is especially the case on the sea cliffs where the ledges are not easily accessible. For this reason, a longer lens is the best option. A minimum of 500mm on a full-frame camera will allow you to capture the wildlife safely.

A longer lens is also needed for otter photography. The only way to encounter the otters is from a distance and the longer the lens, the easier and less intrusive your encounter will be.

Some of the photography locations are across rocky coasts or quite long hikes so a smaller lightweight camera may be a better option.

Spare batteries and lots of memory are useful to allow you to stay out all day. Given the weather conditions in Shetland, a dry bag to store personal items and a sturdy camera bag with a waterproof cover is essential. You will also need to consider a waterproof cover for your lens and camera body and lens cloth.

If you are travelling to Shetland by plane, you will need to consider the size of your camera bag as the planes are compact with very limited overhead space or footroom.

Best time to Visit shetland for Wildlife

Shetland is a year-round location for wildlife but the summer months are by far the best for wildlife encounters. Spring and summer see the birds visiting their breeding grounds and from late April the sea cliffs come to life. They are busy areas until mid-July when they start to leave for their winter travels.

June and July are the best times to visit when the weather is relatively settled and the days are long. This is when you may see orcas patrolling the shallows in search of seals. Even in the summer, the weather can be unpredictable and chilly. In the winter months, the nights are long and the weather can be wild.

Otters are seals are resident all year round although the shorter days and rough weather in winter make it harder work to find and photograph them. During November and December, care should be taken as the seals are having their pups and should not be disturbed.

How to get to Shetland

Shetland can be reached from mainland Scotland by plane and ferry.

The Northlink ferry runs from Aberdeen daily and arrives into Holmsgarth in Lerwick which is just a short walk from the town centre. The ferry is an overnight journey with a late-night stop in Orkney .

It is also possible to fly to Shetland with Loganair . The flights leave from a number of Scottish airports and fly into the small airport at Sumburgh. This is about 45 minutes south of Lerwick so either a hire car, taxi or bus timetable is needed to plan your journey on from the airport.

Getting around Shetland

Shetland has good roads around most of the islands and the roads are empty. It is easy driving and having a car makes exploring possible. there is a bus service but it is limited and will make photography limited and difficult to organise. It is possible to hire a car when you arrive if you do decide to fly or take the ferry as a foot passenger.

The islands are served by a small ro-ro ferry that runs on a regular schedule. The times can be seen here . It is possible to buy multi-use tickets if you will be doing a lot of crossings or just pay once you are on the ferry.

Getting to Fair Isle is a little more complicated. the crossing can be made on the Good Shepherd IV from Grutness near Sumburgh airport or by taking a flight from Tingwall airport. If you are going to Fair Isle then you will need to be flexible with your dates to accommodate any weather.

I'm Suzanne the traveller and photographer behind Meandering Wild. With over 30 years of experience travelling to different corners of the world in search of wildlife and remote locations nearly all of the advice on this website is from my own exploring.

Ultimate Guide to Visiting Shetland & Orkney

Home > Blog > Ultimate Guide to Visiting Shetland & Orkney

For many people, Shetland and Orkney are the remote islands ‘somewhere up the top’ of a map of the British Isles.

But make the simple journey north and you’ll discover cosmopolitan towns, world-class scenery, and some of the friendliest locals around. With a fascinating history dating back to Neolithic times, you’ll also have the opportunity to visit some of the finest historic sites in Europe.

Absolute Escapes have been arranging self-drive holidays in Scotland for almost two decades, and we like to think that our customer excellence rating of 99% is based on our first-hand experience. With this in mind, I ventured north to research Shetland and Orkney. A tough job but someone’s got to do it!

Armed with new-found knowledge from my trip, here’s my ultimate guide to these beautiful archipelagoes.

When is the best time to visit Shetland & Orkney?

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May and September are usually excellent months to visit Shetland and Orkney. They are not only quieter than June, July and August in terms of visitor numbers, but also statistically the driest months of the year.

The northern latitude means that the sun barely sets in summer, providing almost endless hours of daylight to explore. On Shetland, the long summer days and unique light are known as the simmer din . Winter months are very dark, and the sun sets before 15.00 on the winter solstice. The legendary Viking fire festival Up Helly Aa brightens up Shetland on the last Tuesday of every January.

Summer is the best time for nature lovers to visit. Puffins arrive here to breed from mid-April until early August, and your best chance of encountering orcas and minke whales is from the start of May until early August.

It’s also worth mentioning that Orkney is the UK’s most popular cruise ship destination. The busiest months for cruise ship arrivals are May, June and August, and you should avoid those months if you’d like to experience Orkney with fewer crowds.

Absolute Escapes offer tailor-made holidays which are created uniquely for you by our award-winning specialists. Our packages include hand-picked accommodation, a personalised information pack, and 24-hour support from our dedicated team.

Our popular Shetland & Orkney: Escape to the Edge itinerary is a superb introduction to the islands. It includes an overnight ferry from Aberdeen, three nights on Shetland, four nights on Orkney, all ferry travel between the islands, and (optional) car hire.

You can travel to Shetland by ferry or by plane.

The main ferry service is operated by Northlink and runs daily from Aberdeen to Lerwick, the capital of Shetland. Ferries depart from Aberdeen in early evening and arrive in Lerwick very early the following morning. The ferries are modern and well-equipped with comfortable en-suite cabins.

There are also several flights per day from the main Scottish airports (Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Glasgow), and regular summer flights from Bergen in Norway. The journey time from Edinburgh and Glasgow is 1.5 hours and 1 hour from Aberdeen.

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With around 100 islands, Shetland is surprisingly large and spread out. The main island, which is known as ‘Mainland’, is home to the vast majority of the population and is the fifth largest island in the British Isles with an area of 373 square miles.

Due to its size, you could easily spend a week on Shetland and barely scratch the surface. If you don’t have endless time, it’s possible to see some of Shetland’s top attractions over 3 or 4 nights.

If you’re travelling by ferry from Aberdeen, it’s worth remembering that you will arrive in Lerwick very early in the morning (07.30) which will effectively give you an extra day of sightseeing on arrival.

On arrival, many visitors make a beeline for the South Mainland which is home to some of Shetland’s most popular attractions:

• Jarlshof : The incredibly well-preserved remains of a 4,500-year-old Neolithic settlement. A true historic gem.
• Sumburgh Head : Popular visitor centre and nature reserve. An excellent place to spot puffins and marine animals.
• St Ninian’s Isle : This unique ‘tombolo’ beach is one of Shetland’s most scenic spots.

The island’s vibrant capital of Lerwick is also home to some excellent attractions:

• Shetland Museum : This excellent, modern museum tells the story of Shetland’s history and culture. Entry is free.
• Fort Charlotte : A 17th-century fortress built to defend Shetland from Dutch and French warships.
• ‘The Lodberry’ : The home of fictional detective, Jimmy Perez, from the Shetland TV series. This must be the most photographed spot on Shetland!
• Clickimin Broch : An outstanding example of an Iron Age broch, which is a stone-built round house found only in Scotland.

There are plenty of fabulous things to see elsewhere on Shetland. Here is some of our favourites:

• Scalloway : The island’s ancient capital is only a 15-minute drive from Lerwick and well worth a visit. Explore Scalloway Castle (closed in 2022 for conservation work) and Scalloway Museum.
• Eshaness : This rugged corner of the north-west Mainland is home to awe-inspiring scenery and bracing coastal walks.
• Unst : Britain’s most northerly island is home to sensational scenery and wonderful wildlife at Hermaness National Nature Reserve. Getting to Unst requires a bit of pre-planning (more info here ), but it’s well worth the effort.

With a natural sand causeway jutting out across the sea, the ‘tombolo’ beach at St Ninian’s is quite simply breathtaking. This spot features in many promotional images of Shetland and is justifiably popular with visitors, although – even in the height of summer – you’re likely to see no more than a handful of other people.

Nearby Scousburgh Sands is another idyllic and peaceful spot. The golden sands are backed with sand dunes, and you may be lucky enough to see seals bobbing around in the sea nearby.

My favourite beach on Shetland was Meal Beach in West Burra – an idyllic, south-facing cove with white sand and turquoise water. West Burra is connected by bridge from the Mainland so there are no ferries required.

Shetland’s roads are generally in excellent condition and it is stress-free to drive around the islands. Like much of Scotland, some parts of Shetland have single-track roads – in which case you will need to use passing places. If you see a vehicle coming towards you, or there is a driver behind you who wants to overtake, pull into a passing place on your left, or wait opposite a passing place on your right.

If you’d like to do a bit of island-hopping, Shetland Islands Council operate the ferry services on Shetland. These ferries are frequent and reliable, and we would advise pre-booking journeys in advance.

Public transport on Shetland is available in most places and is fairly reliable. You can plan public transport journeys on the Shetland Travel website.

Shetland’s ultimate island-hop destination is well worth the effort to get there. Unst is the most northerly island in Britain and home to the legendary Hermaness National Nature Reserve.

Getting to Unst (and then back to the Mainland) involves taking 4 ferries. These can get very busy in peak season and we would recommend pre-booking tickets for all journeys on the Shetland Island Council website:

• Toft (mainland) to Ulsta (Yell)
• Gutcher (Yell) to Belmont (Unst)
• Belmont (Unst) to Gutcher (Yell)
• Ulsta (Yell) to Toft (Mainland)

No payment is made at the time of booking – you will instead be asked to pay in full on the first ferry. You can do so by cash or debit/credit card. The staff are flexible and helpful if you miss a pre-booked ferry journey, however, you may need to wait a while until they can find a space for you on a subsequent ferry.

Most people drive straight through Yell (around a 30 minute drive) to take the second ferry across to Unst. Therefore, we would suggest booking the Gutcher to Belmont crossing no earlier than 40 minutes after the first ferry arrives in Ulsta.

Eating options on Unst are limited. Victoria’s Vintage Tea Rooms is open from Tuesday – Saturday (10.00 – 17.00) and booking a table is essential. Alternatively, we would suggest picking up a packed lunch from the Mainland.

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Shetland is, of course, world-famous for its eponymous ponies, which can be seen grazing by the roadside or on the heathery hills. During August, the local agricultural shows take place, providing excellent opportunities to see Shetland ponies in action.

People travel from across the world to view Shetland’s seabird colonies, including puffins, gannets, guillemots, fulmars and kittiwakes. It really is a bird lover’s paradise, and you are guaranteed to see puffins at Sumburgh Head and Hermaness nature reserves in season.

Shetland is also one of the best places in Britain to spot sea mammals, particularly common seals, grey seals, otters, harbour porpoises and, occasionally, orcas. The best time to see them is between May and August.

Accommodation on Shetland ranges from everything from tiny glamping pods and cosy B&Bs to modern hotels. For our self-drive packages, we will usually try to secure accommodation in Lerwick as it has good amenities and some fabulous places to eat and drink.

Although accommodation options are more limited further north, there are some lovely places to stay around Brae and Hillswick. These are good bases to explore the northern Mainland and travel to Yell and Unst.

Many of the best places to eat are in the main town of Lerwick – a bustling, cosmopolitan port with amenities usually found in much larger towns.

Fjarå Café Bar is a relaxed bistro just outside the centre of Lerwick which offers fantastic sea views, friendly staff and delicious food. Don’t miss the freshly-landed mussels.

Located on Lerwick’s main street, C’est la Vie Cafe serves French and Spanish specialities. While the cafe does not have an alcohol license, you are welcome to BYOB. It is open daily for lunch and dinner.

The Dowry is a modern space with a Nordic feel, serving excellent food with an Asian twist. The name was taken from the dowry payment by which Shetland and Orkney were pawned to Scotland by the King of Denmark, Norway and Sweden in the sixteenth century.

In Scalloway, Da Haaf Restaurant is right at the heart of all things maritime, serving excellent local seafood and other produce with a view over Port Arthur.

During the busy summer months of June, July and August, we’d recommend pre-booking an entry slot for Jarlshof on the Historic Scotland website.

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The ferry service from Shetland to Orkney is operated by Northlink . There are usually 3 crossings per week (Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays) which depart Lerwick at 17.30 and arrive in Kirkwall at 23.00. If you’re taking this ferry, we’d recommend eating dinner on board as most places in Kirkwall will be closed on arrival.

You can also fly directly from Shetland to Orkney with Loganair .

Orkney is an archipelago made up of 70 islands, which you could spend a lifetime exploring. If you don’t have endless time, 4 or 5 nights will give you a good flavour of the islands and allow you to see most of the top attractions.

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Orkney’s cosmopolitan capital of Kirkwall is a delightful small town with excellent attractions:

• St Magnus Cathedral : Known as the ‘Light in the North’, this majestic cathedral was originally founded in the 12th century by Viking Earl Rognvald.
• Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces : These palaces are regarded as two of the finest examples of architecture in Scotland and highlight Orkney’s strong Norse links.
• Highland Park Distillery : Enjoy a tour and tasting at one of Scotland’s oldest whisky distilleries.

Orkney’s exceptional prehistoric sites have been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site called the ‘Heart of Neolithic Orkney’. The most popular attractions to visit are:

• Skara Brae : This incredible Neolithic village is the jewel in the crown. Older than the Egyptian Pyramids, it offers a fascinating glimpse into life for Orkney’s earliest inhabitants between 3,200 and 2,200 BC.
• Maeshowe : This atmospheric chambered cairn and tomb was constructed around 5,000 years ago. It was broken into by Vikings in the 12th century who carved runic graffiti into the walls of the main chamber.
• Ring of Brodgar : One of the largest and best-preserved stone circles in the British Isles. This is a popular spot with coach tours, so we’d suggest visiting early or later in the day to avoid the crowds.

There are plenty of fantastic attractions elsewhere on Orkney:

• Stromness : With quaint alleyways and sweeping sea views, Orkney’s second-largest town is a lovely place to wander around. Pop into the Pier Arts Centre or Stromness Museum.
• Italian Chapel : This incredibly ornate Catholic chapel was built by Italian prisoners of war during World War II.
• Brough of Birsay : Walk across a tidal causeway to explore Pictish, Norse and medieval remains on a beautiful island. The causeway is only passable for two hours either side of low tide. You can check tidal times on the Met Office or Orkney.com websites.
• Yesnaby Castle : This wild stretch of coastline on the west Mainland is an unbeatable place for a bracing coastal walk. The sea stack, Yesnaby Castle, is a great alternative to the more famous Old Man of Hoy (see below).
• Hoy : A short ferry ride from the Mainland, Hoy is a magical island packed full of dramatic scenery, wonderful historic sites, and the legendary sea stack; the Old Man of Hoy. You can also visit the excellent new Scapa Flow Museum in Lyness to learn more of Orkney’s military involvement in the First and Second World Wars. You can find more information about visiting Hoy below.

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Orkney’s mainland has several fantastic beaches, so no matter where you’re staying, you’re not far from the shore. Just a short walk from Kirkwall you’ll find the beach at Scapa , or head further west and explore the shallow bay at Waulkmill .

In the east Mainland, Burray and South Ronaldsay, places like Dingieshowe , Glimps Holm and the Sands o’Wright are popular spots to visit.

On Hoy, Rackwick Bay has giant rounded pebbles, golden sand, and massive cliffs on either side of the bay.

Even further off the beaten track, the islands of Sanday and Stronsay have numerous beautiful beaches to explore, and there’s a good chance you’ll have them all to yourself.

Roads on Orkney are generally in very good condition and it is easy to drive around the islands. Some rural parts of the Mainland, and many of the outlying islands, have single-track roads – in which case you will need to use passing places. If you see a vehicle coming towards you, or the driver behind wants to overtake, pull into a passing place on your left, or wait opposite a passing place on your right.

If you’re planning to get off the Mainland and visit different islands, the ferry services are regular and reliable. These are operated by Orkney Ferries , and you can check timetables and pre-book tickets on their website.

Public transport is available across much of Orkney, with many routes passing close to the most popular sites including the Ring of Brodgar, the Standing Stones of Stenness, the Churchill Barriers and the Italian Chapel. You can find more information and plan your journey on the Orkney Islands Council website.

The Old Man of Hoy is located on the island of Hoy, located south of the Orkney Mainland. If you’re taking your car to Hoy, you’ll need to take the ferry from Houton to Lyness. A foot passenger-only service is available from Stromness.

The Houton to Lyness service is operated by Orkney Ferries and we would recommend pre-booking your tickets well in advance during the summer months. The crossing time is around 40 minutes.

To reach the Old Man of Hoy, you will need to drive to Rackwick – a 30-minute drive. From here, it is a 2.5 – 3 hour (return) walk to view the spectacular sea stack.

Remember to give yourself ample time to get back to Lyness for your return ferry to Houton. If all else fails, you will also get a good view of the Old Man of Hoy if you’re sailing from Stromness back to Scrabster on the Scottish mainland.

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Like Shetland, Orkney is a nature lover’s paradise. It is estimated that 15% of the world’s seal population live here. It’s also a great place to see orcas and harbour porpoises.

Orkney’s towering sea cliffs are home to thousands of birds – puffins, guillemots, gulls, gannets and kittiwakes – while the marshlands and sweeping moorlands are natural habitats for the likes of curlew, hen harriers and other birds of prey.

Orkney has a very high standard of accommodation which is driven up by the 200,000 visitors it receives each year. You’ll find everything from cosy B&Bs to luxurious hotels which would not be out of place in a large city.

We usually prioritise accommodation in Kirkwall for our self-drive clients. It’s not only an excellent base to explore the Mainland, but there are also some fabulous places to eat and drink and good local amenities.

One of the best places to eat on the islands is the Storehouse Restaurant , which you’ll find in a beautifully-refurbished former warehouse just off Kirkwall’s main street. The restaurant serves high-quality local produce such as hand-dived Orkney scallops, Orkney lamb, beef and seafood.

Situated on Kirkwall’s Harbourfront, Helgi’s serves great gastropub meals using locally-sourced ingredients. The decor takes inspiration from Orkney’s Viking past.

Next door to the Highland Park Distillery on the outskirts of Kirkwall, the Lynnfield Hotel serves excellent Scottish cuisine. The decor is whisky themed, which is very apt considering the hotel’s location, and the snug bar is a perfect spot for a nightcap.

You may also wish to dine on Orcadian produce at the Kirkwall Hotel. The newly-refurbished Harbour View Restaurant offers intimate booths and fine views of the waterfront. For something a little bit different, you could try Twenty One in the heart of Kirkwall. This stylish spot serves small plates, craft beers and cocktails. For hearty Italian fare, Lucano serves traditional pasta and pizza close to St Magnus Cathedral.

Slightly further afield you’ll find The Foveran in St Ola – 3 miles from Kirkwall. This stylish family-run restaurant has sweeping views across Scapa Flow, and the menu showcases the best of the local larder.

During the busy summer months of June, July and August, we’d recommend pre-booking an entry slot for both Skara Brae and Maeshowe on the Historic Scotland website.

There are regular free guided walks around the Ring of Brodgar stone circle. Check the website for details.

Discover Shetland & Orkney with Absolute Escapes

If you’d like to experience Scotland’s incredible Northern Isles for yourself, our Shetland & Orkney self-drive itinerary is a great place to start. Our packages include hand-picked accommodation, all ferry travel, a personalised information pack, and 24-hour support from our dedicated team.

All of our self-drive holidays are tailor-made to your individual requirements, so don’t hesitate to get in touch with your dream trip and our Travel Specialists will make it happen.

Scott Smyth

P.S. Keen to explore Shetland and Orkney’s epic scenery on foot? You might be interested in our brand new multi-centre walking holiday .

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The Ultimate Guide To Planning A Trip To Shetland

Categories Orkney & Shetland , Scotland , Scottish Islands

For this mini-guide, Shetlander and writer, Laurie Goodlad, shares more about these fascinating islands, and how best to plan and enjoy your time there. Laurie is a full-time travel blogger and tour guide who has been sharing her island home with visitors since 2018. Born to the islands, she can trace her ancestry back hundreds of years and is passionate about Shetland.

Table of Contents

Shetland has so much to offer visitors; from the rugged scenery, to the history and wildlife, there is something for everyone to enjoy.

Made up of over 100 islands, Shetland is an archipelago in the middle of the North Atlantic; where the North Sea meets the North Atlantic, and Scotland meets Scandinavia, Shetland enjoys a distinct and unique culture.

Lying at 60° North, the latitude line passes through the sweeping South Mainland, metaphorically slicing Shetland in half. Being so far north means that the days of summer are very long and light – or, as in winter, are very short and dark.

In summer, Shetland enjoys up to 19 hours of daylight but, in the winter, can expect to see only six hours of light. Put simply, Shetland is closer to the Arctic Circle to the north (400 miles/643 km) than it is to the UK’s urban powerhouse, London (600 miles/962 km), to the south.

A seal in Lerwick Harbour

Its rugged coastline of almost 1,000 miles (1,700km) has been carved and shaped by the unbridled power of the North Atlantic on the west while, while, on the east coast, the North Sea challenges the ever-changing coastline. Of these 100 or so islands, 16 are inhabited.

Including Fair Isle to the south, and Out Stack in the north, Shetland is about 100 miles (160 kilometres) long and, at its widest, is 7 miles (11 km), but in places like Mavis Grind , it’s no more than about 70 metres wide. Mainland is the largest of the islands, at 55 miles (88 km) long it has links by inter-island ferry, plane and road bridge to those that are inhabited.

Geographically, Shetland resembles a jigsaw puzzle, formed by a range of ancient hills standing on the continental shelf and partly drowned when the last period of glaciation retreated 10,000 to 12,000 years ago.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Laurie writes the travel blog, Shetland With Laurie and has worked as author for Lonely Planet on their latest Scotland guidebooks. Here, Laurie shares her insights, tips and favourite places.

How To Get To Shetland

Catching the ferry is a popular way to reach Shetland

Getting to Shetland is easy; you can fly or take the overnight ferry.

Shetland by air

Flights are operated by Loganair and depart from most Scottish airports, including: Aberdeen , Glasgow , Edinburgh , Inverness , Kirkwall and Dundee (seasonal). There are also flights from London and Bergen throughout the summer.

Shetland by sea

NorthLink Ferries operates the lifeline service to the isles, with two ferries running on the route between Lerwick and Aberdeen .

The ferry calls in at Kirkwall , Orkney on alternate evenings, and the sailing time is between 12 and 14 hours.

Cars can be brought on the ferry and there are various accommodation options, including cabins and sleeping pods. The boat also offers pet-friendly accommodation in some of its cabins.

Exploring Shetland

Shetland by car

Shetland is best enjoyed with a car; you can either bring your own vehicle on the overnight ferry or hire a car from one of the car hire companies.

● Bolts Car Hire ● Grantfield Garage ● Star Rent a Car

Oil money has meant that Shetland has a good road network, and the subsidised inter-island travel means lower fares. Most rural roads are single-track, with passing places that are easy to navigate.

Cycle Shetland

Taking a bike on the ferry to Shetland is cheaper than a car, and allows you to slow down and enjoy the islands at a leisurely pace (but bear in mind that there are no dedicated cycle lanes!)

Shetland’s roads are in very good condition and are a pleasure to cycle, although main roads can be quite fast and the gradients tiring. It is worth taking account of the fact that the weather is changeable and a strong head-wind can make for a challenging cycle.

Inter-island travel

Nine inter-island ferries operate throughout Shetland, linking Yell , Unst , Fetlar , Whalsay , Skerries , Bressay , Papa Stour , Fair Isle and Foula . Ferries to the North Isles , Whalsay and Bressay operate daily, with multiple sailings.

Ferries to Skerries , Papa Stour , Fair Isle and Foula are less frequent, and booking is required. All except the Fair Isle and Foula ferries are ro-ro car ferries .

Fair Isle and Foula have air links to Tingwall Airport (6.5 miles from Lerwick). There are several flights a week but it is advised to plan trips to Fair Isle and Foula at the start of your holiday as flights can often be delayed or cancelled due to weather, particularly fog. Allowing flexibility in your schedule is recommended if you are planning to visit Fair Isle and Foula.

Public transport

Shetland has excellent public transport provision, allowing you to explore all corners of the islands. Buses provide links to all corners of Shetland, but note that the bus stop may still be several miles from that beauty spot you want to visit.

Bus timetables and up-to-date information are available on the free ZetTrans Travel App, available on both Apple and Android devices and does not need a mobile phone signal to be used.

Zetrans and Traveline Scotland provide useful information about travelling around Shetland.

Guided tours

On tour with Laurie!

Shetland has lots of private guides who can help you unlock the magic of the isles, here are a few to check out:

• Shetland with Laurie
• Shetland Nature
• Adventure Shetland
• Island Trails
• Shetland Minibus Tours

Things to do in Shetland

As a Shetlander, I’m always asked what my favourite things to do in Shetland, and it’s just so difficult to pick!

However, we all have a few favourite places, and here are some of mine which I feel will give you the best taste of Shetland’s landscape, culture and heritage.

Lerwick’s old town

Explore the picturesque port of Lerwick – the UK’s most northerly town and one of the country’s leading fishing ports.

Walk through Lerwick’s old town, exploring the fascinating 18th-century lanes and lodberries with their stone foundations proudly built into the sea, defying time and tide.

Head to South Commercial Street to find the fictional home of enigmatic TV star Jimmy Perez from the hit TV show Shetland , or dip your toes in the water at Bain’s Beach and search for a piece of sea-worn pottery.

Throughout the summer, Laurie offers Walking Tours of Lerwick’s old town, exploring the fascinating history of the town.

Deepdale, West Mainland

Hike out to Deepdale in Shetland’s West Mainland for a slice of paradise and enjoy the setting sun on a summer’s night. The walk is around 5 miles (8km) and can be challenging in parts.

Park at the Voe of Dale (Dale of Walls beach) and follow the coast north towards Sandness (OS Explorer 467). This piece of coastline, with views across to the most westerly island of Foula , is awe-inspiring. The cliffs are dramatic and rugged, hewn out by the powerful forces of the North Atlantic.

A day in Skerries

For those who really want to get away from it all and enjoy a leisurely day hiking the coastline, the island of Skerries is ideal.

Out Skerries, known locally as Da Skerries or just Skerries , are a small low-lying trio of islands – Housay , Bruray and Grunay – that lies 13 miles off Shetland’s east coast and four miles northeast of Whalsay .

The island is home to around 30 people who largely depend on the fishing industry, and small enough to be walked in a day trip.

Tresta Beach, Fetlar

The smallest of the North Isles, Fetlar , known as the Garden of Shetland, is a beautiful island to explore.

One of the best places to experience is the beach at Tresta with its glistening sand that sparkles in the summer sun. This is the perfect place to enjoy a picnic – or even try a little wild swimming at 60 North!

Getting to Tresta is easy; from the ferry, take the B9088 for two miles, and follow the signs for Tresta. The beach is unmissable!

No trip to Shetland would be complete without a visit to the uninhabited island of Mousa.

World- famous for the 2,000-year-old Iron Age broch which is the best surviving example of a broch anywhere in the world. The island is also famous for its breeding colony of storm petrels and other wildlife.

Mousa Boat operates day trips from April to mid-September and evening tours to see the storm petrels around midsummer.

St Ninian’s Isle, South Mainland

St Ninian’s Isle

St Ninian’s Isle is probably Shetland’s best-known beach. Its iconic image is found in most brochures and internet searches for places to visit in Shetland, and rightly so.

St Ninian’s Isle is a picture-postcard pristine white sand tombolo spanning some 500 metres from the Shetland Mainland, across to the uninhabited St Ninian’s Isle, where the 9th century St Ninina’s Isle treasure hoard was discovered.

Hike to a broch

Mousa Broch

So much of Shetland’s archaeology is away from the trappings of visitor centres, and remain quiet and hidden away from the crowds.

Here are a few of my favourites to hike to:

• Culswick Broch Walk
• Levenwick Broch
• Burraness Broch
• Burland Broch

Sands o Breckon, Yell

Sands o Breckon

Yell is the largest of Shetland’s trio of North Isles, often overlooked by visitors as they head north to Uunst.

The beach at Sands of Breckon is worth a visit; with stunning golden sands and turquoise seas. Besides the beach, the area provides a fascinating glimpse into Shetland’s archaeological past.

This secluded site has had almost continual occupation from prehistoric times, and the remains of past people can be seen all around the area. To get here, follow the A968 north through Yell and, just before the Gutcher Ferry Terminal, turn left towards Cullivoe.

Follow this road (B9083) for several miles – look out for the ‘brown’ tourist sign marked ‘Breckon Sands’. Follow this road for ⅓ of a mile and park responsibly at the end of the road and follow the path to the beach.

Click here for more on things to do in Yell.

Quendale Beach, South Mainland

Shetland’s not short of beautiful beaches, particularly in the sweeping South Mainland, and the sand at Quendale is no exception.

Quendale beach is Shetland’s longest stretch of sandy beach at just short of a mile. This area has changed significantly as shifting sands alter the landscape, and the unique dune system stretches far inland. Testament to the changes brought to this area is found in the excavations at Broo – an abandoned township buried under sand some 300 years ago.

The best way to reach Quendale Beach is to follow the A970 south until you almost reach Sumburgh. Follow the road signs for ‘Toab/Hestingott’, heading west, follow this road for about two miles until the road ends at some garages and the double carriageway gives way to a dirt track. Park responsibly and follow the track down to the beach.

Eshaness, Northmavine

The cliffs at Eshaness

The rugged cliffs at Eshaness are breathtakingly beautiful. Formed by fire and ice almost 400 million years ago, this is a landscape of drama and rugged beauty.

Walk the Eshaness circular and marvel at the incredible volcanic formations in the landscape, including the Grind o da Naavir, Hols o Scraada and the Kirn o Slettans.

Eshaness is an hour’s drive from Lerwick following the A970 north towards Hillswick , then follow the signs for Eshaness.

Grind-o’-da-Navir, Eshaness

Heylor, Northmavine

Under the shadow of Ronas Hill , Shetland’s highest point, Heylor is a beautiful ‘out of the way’ spot sitting on the shores of Ronas Voe , an impressive fjord-like inlet of seawater that stretches far inland along the side of Ronas Hill and its red granite heights.

Follow the A970 north towards Hillswick . At Urafirth , turn right towards Heylor and Swinister and follow the road for around half a mile before veering left towards Heylor.

Westerwick, West Mainland

Enjoy a coastal walk between Westerwick and Silwick and enjoy the dramatic scenery and red granite cliffs. To find Westerwick, follow the A971 west, then take the B907 towards Skeld.

In Skeld, follow the signs towards Wester Skeld – follow this road for several miles, passing the school and graveyard before turning left at the end of the road towards Silwick and Westerwick .

Follow this road before turning right towards Westerwick . Park at the end of the road for walking routes.

Jarlshof Prehistoric Site, South Mainland

Jarlshof Prehistoric Site

The site is a must-see for anyone visiting Shetland; laid out chronologically and spanning 5,000 years of human history, visitors weave their way through the ages of Shetland’s human history.

From the first farmers of the Neolithic, through the Bronze Age, Iron Age, Broch period and the arrival of the Vikings.

Following a period of Norse rule, Shetland becomes part of Scotland, and we see an era dominated by the Scottish Lairds.

Visitors conclude their walk through time with the now ruinous, but once grand, Laird’s house of 1600. Jarlshof is unmissable!

Fethaland, Northmavine

For the most northerly point of Mainland Shetland, head to the historic 19th-century fishing station at Fethaland in the North Mainland. The walk out to the now ruinous buildings will take a few hours, so you might want to pack a picnic and OS Explorer No 469 . Park responsibly at the end of the Isbister road – bearing in mind that the farmer requires access to the farm road.

Tips for planning a trip to Shetland

• Book well in advance! Accommodation can book up a year in advance, so you will need to get planning well ahead of travel. Shetland has a dedicated accommodation website that you can find. This is a good place to look for accommodation and these are some accommodation reviews that I have done.
• Pack for all weathers ; Shetland is in the far north and, even in summer, weather can be cool and often cold! Pack plenty of layers, a sturdy pair of boots and a good waterproof outer layer.
• Plan your days around different areas; South Mainland, West Mainland, North Mainland, Unst, for example.
• Book a boat trip with the Mousa Boat or the Noss Boat.
• Book meals in advance if you are travelling in the summer as restaurants book up quickly and it can be difficult to get a last-minute table.

Where to eat

• No 88, Commercial Street, Lerwick
• The Dowry, Commercial Street & Hay’s Dock, Lerwick
• Fjara, Lerwick
• Da Steak Hoose, Mounthooly Street, Lerwick
• Peerie Shop Cafe, Lerwick
• The Cornerstone, Scalloway
• Braewick Cafe, Eshaness (seasonal opening)
• Busta House Hotel, Brae
• Frankie’s Fish & Chips, Brae

Recommended accommodation

• Shetland Seawinds , Lerwick
• Ingrid’s Self Catering , Scalloway
• Scalloway Hotel
• Busta House Hotel , Brae
• Westshore , West Mainland
• The Taing , Reawick
• Shorehaven and The Boatman’s House , Unst
• Da Peerie Neuk , Unst

Related posts

19 unmissable things to do in Shetland

Love boats, hikes, gorgeous nature and amazing wildlife? Sounds like a visit to the Shetland Islands is in order. Discover the best things to do in Shetland, from searching for puffins to taking a Shetland pony for a walk.

The Shetland Islands. Nestled between Scotland and the Faroe Islands , this remote archipelago is a place well-worth adventuring to.

There’s amazing wildlife to see and sweeping coastal views to take in. Hike past old crofts, grazing sheep and intelligent Shetland ponies. Explore tiny towns. Follow a local craft trail and immerse yourself in some pretty impressive history.

Although considered part of Scotland, Shetland has its own unique identity; the people who call this windswept archipelago home consider themselves Shetlanders first and foremost.

Keep in mind that some of the best things to do in Shetland may not be available year-round. Check before you go, to avoid disappointment.

Disclosure: This page may contain affiliate links. If you click through for additional information or make a purchase, it may result in a small commission, at no extra cost to you. See my privacy policy if you require more information. Thank you for supporting a small content creator.

Discover the best things to do in Shetland

Where to stay in Shetland

Looking for accommodation options in Shetland? I stayed at Busta House Hotel in Burra and thoroughly recommend it. It’s located near the town of Brae, conveniently central to most attractions.

All right, let’s dive into it. Here are the best things to do in Shetland, no matter what your interests.

1. Catch the ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick

One of the best things to do on the Shetland Islands involves the journey there.

While you can fly into the islands, flights can be expensive and the destinations flown to and from, limited.

Instead, I recommend making your way to Aberdeen (which has a better connected international airport you can fly into, if need be) and catching the NorthLink Ferry from there to Lerwick.

It’s an overnight ferry, meaning if you have the funds, it’s recommendable to book a cabin. This way you can get a decent night’s sleep and wake up refreshed, ready to go exploring.

Find out more about getting to the Shetland Islands .

2. Take a Shetland pony for a walk

As a total horse girl, this was hands down the best thing I did on the Shetland Islands. And I’d recommend it to just about anyone.

The Shetland Pony Experience is located in Burra, which is a short drive from the town of Scalloway.

Once there, you’ll be paired with a pony, who you can brush down, before taking a walk with them down to a beach for photos and pats.

It’s the best. Don’t miss it.

3. Ride an Icelandic horse

When I found out you could ride Icelandic horses in Shetland, well, I jumped at the chance.

Houlls Horses & Hounds offer up the chance to ride one of their beautiful horses on a trek.

I’ve ridden Icelandic horses once before (in Iceland) and they’re quite different from other horses. They even have their own gate, a tolt, which is kinda like a rolling canter.

It’s no problem if you don’t have much experience; you’ll be paired with the right horse and guided through what you need to do.

4. Take a hike

One of the best things to do in Shetland is to hit the paths for a good hike.

There are many fantastic trails to follow, along tracks which are surprisingly quiet.

There are access paths across Shetland, which will take you on hikes past crofters (farmhouses), alongside sea cliffs and past bemused sheep. The landscape is unbelievable; it’s easy to see why Shetland has been awarded UNESCO Global Geopark status.

There’s plenty to choose from; find one that suits you .

5. Explore other islands

There’s plenty of things to do on Shetland’s mainland; similarly, don’t discount the archipelago’s many islands.

Some are easily accessible by bridge. For others, such as Yell and Unst, you’ll need to book onto a car ferry. They’re pretty easy to navigate and run regularly. It’s best to book during peak season , but you’re not in strife if you don’t.

You’ll have to leave the car behind to visit islands like Mousa , but these smaller islands certainly shouldn’t be discounted.

6. Visit the northernmost part of the UK

I went on a few hikes and the one I enjoyed most is the hike through Hermaness National Nature Reserve, which takes you right to the northernmost tip of the UK.

It’s a challenging walk, up and down sea cliffs, with somewhat boggy land to navigate.

Your reward is beautiful views of land and ocean, and if you’re lucky, sea birds along the way.

7. Explore the Shetland Craft Trail

The Shetland Islands are full of makers and creators, specialising in textiles, artworks, jewellery, even handmade bears. Some of these wares make truly unique souvenirs ; I bought a necklace and earrings from Shetland Jewellery which I will treasure forever.

Many of these artists have studios on the islands, which they open to the public either daily, seasonally, or by appointment.

Here’s a map of the Shetland Craft Trail , if you wish to check it out for yourself.

8. Try & spot puffins

If you visit Shetland in the warmer months (late May to July), you might be lucky to see puffins.

Known locally as ‘Tammy Norie’, there are a few spots where these cute little seabirds cluster; notably in the south of the islands at Sumburgh Heads.

You may also catch them at Hermaness on the island of Unst, and the island of Foula.

It’s a bit harder to spot them in early summer, unless you’re at the cliffs early or late in the day. This is because they tend to fly out to sea, to gather food.

You may have a greater chance of seeing them during the day in late summer when they’re busy chilling with their chicks.

9. Marvel at a range of other seabirds

Puffins aren’t the only seabirds present during breeding season. Birding is in general one of the best things to do in Shetland and twitchers won’t be disappointed.

Head to the islands to see fulmars, curlew, guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, shags, gannets and more.

If you’re really lucky, you might see some migrating rarities. Bring your binoculars and keep your eyes peeled.

10. Walk to a red pool

This is a very easy sight to see after visiting Sumburgh Heads.

Take a path past some crofters, along a pebble beach and sea cliffs, to a red pool, cut into the rock.

No one is quite sure why it’s red, but it could be to do with the way algae reacts to the sun. Melbourne has a similar pool , right outside it’s city centre.

11. Drop into a wallaby farm

Australia is about as far away as you can get from Shetland. But, did you know there are wallabies on the island?

When anyone on Shetland found out I was Australian, they’d mention The Outpost ; a slice of ‘Down Under’, up north.

Tasmanian expat Dave Kok runs the farm, which is home to home-made cider, pigs, goats and strangely… wallabies?!

The Outpost is located in East Burra. Look out for the swinging pig sign out the front and the Australian flag, fluttering in the breeze.

12. Check out a castle or two

There are a few castles in Shetland, seemingly generally built by unpopular rulers of times gone past.

The oldest structure is the ruins of Castle Holm, located on Loch of Strom.

The most accessible is Scalloway Castle , which is located right next to Scalloway Museum.

If you’re travelling through Unst, you can stop to explore Muness Castle , which is the most northerly castle in the UK.

13. See sea life

The wild waters of the North sea are teeming with life.

You may catch seals, porpoises and dolphins, as well as orcas between May and August, migrating through. For sightings, keep across the Shetland Orca Sightings Facebook group .

Keep an eye out for otter too; it’s one of the best places in the UK to catch these sleek little creatures.

If seeing wildlife is high on your list, I recommend connecting with local wildlife experts , to make the most out of your trip.

14. See rare flowers in their native habitat

One of the best things to do in Shetland for botany nerds, is to time your visit with late spring or early summer, so you can take in the gorgeous wildflowers , which cover the island.

Then, to take it one step further, you should probably head to Unst, specifically the Keen of Hamar National Nature Reserve , which is home to quite a few rare flowers.

This includes Edmondston’s Mouse-ear or chickweed, which is endemic to this one particular patch.

15. Drop into a famous bus shelter

Nearby is another quirky attraction in Shetland; Bobby’s Bus Shelter.

Bobby was living on the island of Unst, when he requested a shelter be built to protect him from the elements, while waiting for his ride to school.

After the shelter was constructed, Bobby went some ways about making it his own, adding a chair, carpet and apparently even a microwave oven.

Nowadays, the shelter is maintained by the local community, who deck it out with a yearly theme.

Go visit and bring some cash, so you can pick up some sweet treats from the bake stall next to it.

16. Learn about the island at local museums

Keen to learn more about the history of the Shetland Islands? There’s plenty of museums to pop into, so you can do just that.

Shetland Museum and Archives is located in Lerwick and provides an overview of life on the island.

Scalloway Museum is a small museum in the town of Scalloway. It has a lot of information about the history of Shetland, particularly regarding the Shetland Bus .

Crofthouse Museum and Sumburgh Head Lighthouse are both located in the southern part of the mainland, and are worth popping into for more a sense of what life was like on the islands for locals.

Be sure to check opening times before visiting.

17. Explore the archipelago’s viking history

While formally a part of Scotland and the UK, Shetland has a strong Nordic history, with remnants of viking occupation scattered around.

There’s archeological sites and Viking longhouses to pop into.

You can also drop into the Up Helly Aa exhibition , to find out more about this unique celebration. It’s currently running in Lerwick.

18. Go wild swimming

There’s some gorgeous beaches in Shetland, so no wonder the islands are popular for wild swimming enthusiasts.

Ocean swimming is growing in popularity, especially during colder seasons, due to the health benefits of immersing yourself in cold salt water.

And considering Shetland is closer to the Arctic Circle than London, you can guarantee things will be a little icy.

Head to some of the best beaches recommended by locals , to dip a toe in the waters and experience this for yourself.

Please be safe when swimming in places you don’t know well. There’s a Selkies Facebook group run by locals, which is worth checking out if you want to know more about wild swimming in Shetland.

19. See the northern lights

Here’s one of the best things to do in Shetland in the cooler seasons: see the northern lights! Known as the Mirrie Dancers, they light up the sky in Shetland, due to its close proximity to the North Pole.

While catching the aurora is not a guarantee, you may be so lucky. Your chances are best between mid-October and mid-March, when it’s dark enough for the lights to make an appearance.

I’ve personally seen the northern lights twice in Iceland ( once during a solar storm ) and it remains one of the best experiences of my life.

Find out more about seeing the northern lights in Shetland .

When’s the best time to visit the Shetland Islands?

While the Shetland Islands are accessible year-round, the best time to visit is generally in summer (June-August). The days are long and average around 15°C. Not exactly hot, but not unmanageable.

Most experiences will be up and running and it’s the best time to see wildflowers, marine life and migratory sea birds.

Keep in mind this is peak season, and accommodation is limited. Book early to avoid disappointment. I highly recommend Busta House Hotel in Brae.

As far as responsible travel goes, I recommend avoiding visiting the islands as part of the giant cruise ships that stop in Lerwick.

Plan a trip independently, cruising in and out on the NorthLink Ferry . Hire a car (we reserved ours through Bolts Car Hire and could choose between manual or automatic) and explore the islands for yourself.

There are plenty of things to do in Shetland: so are you going to visit?

Well, I hope I’ve convinced you that the Shetland Islands are definitely a destination worth adding to your list.

For more on the United Kingdom, check out my archives . If remote places are your thing, you might want to consider travelling to Svalbard , or road tripping the Icelandic Westfjords .

Have you visited the Shetland Islands? Would you like to go?

If you like this post, you should pin it. 📌

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What Is The Best Time To Visit The Shetland Islands?

The Shetland Islands are a beautiful place to visit in Scotland year-round, with each season offering its own unique experiences and in honesty, there is no one “best” time to visit, as it really depends on what you’re looking for.

When I visited it was the middle of July, so I got to enjoy Unst Fest and some nice weather with long daylight hours. But, I’m sure I’ll be visiting Shetland again, and when I do, I think it would be in January as the Up-Helly-A’ just looks too good to miss! But more on that in a bit.

So with that in mind, let’s take a dive into a few things to consider to help you decide what is the best time to visit the Shetland Islands, but first a bold statement …

When is the best time to visit the Shetland Islands?

Late June or early July is the best time in my opinion. It is not the main season yet, so won’t be too busy and you can find some good value in accommodation, also the days are long and you’ll have a good chance of nice weather.

So let’s take a closer look at how I came to that decision.

Coming your way in this post - click to expand ->

The Shetland Island Climate

Of course, one of the major factors to consider if you are deciding when to visit is Shetland’s weather. Well, given that it is so far North, and an island with an oceanic climate , no matter when you visit, there is a high chance of rainy days. But you can visit at specific times to make the odds in your favour.

Here’s a quick seasonal overview, a rough guide to what you can expect.

If you are camping, then you should definitely try to stick to the summer months.

During the months of June – September Shetland enjoys very long daylight hours, with sunset not occurring until after 10 pm in June and barely before 8 pm by the end of August. It will also be your greatest chance of sunshine.

The average temperatures will generally range from 14 – 18 degrees Celsius (50 – 61 Fahrenheit), although it can get above 20 Celcius (68 Fahrenheit) on the nicer days.

Nature is also an amazing place to visit during these months too, as you’ll find the best conditions for walking/hiking, wildlife spotting (the Shetlands are home to many native species including otters, porpoises, seals and of course the famous Shetland Pony) and also great conditions for camping/wildlife watching.

Although, summer is the least windy season, even though some days with strong wind are still possible.

Summer may end in October, but there is still good weather to be found if you go during the weeks around Halloween (October 31st). Temperatures can be similar to those experienced during summer but are often less humid, so you’re more likely to feel the chill during the night.

November can be a bit of a mixed bag with some nice periods of weather, but also the chance of some really windy days – this is especially true around St Andrew’s Day (November 30th), as it is one of the windiest times of the year.

The Shetland Islands experience snowfall in winter, but they can be particularly prone to blizzards during January and February. The average temperature in January is around 0 Celcius (32 Fahrenheit) and can hit highs of 6 Celcius (42 Fahrenheit) but the wind and above average humidity can feel much colder.

If you do decide winter is for you, this is when you are most likely to experience bad weather, so wearing layers and bringing a good winter coat is a must, as well as a sturdy umbrella!

However, the winter months are also when you’ll be most likely to see some amazing displays of the Northern Lights in Shetland – so if this is something that interests you, then visiting in January or February could be a great idea, just try to avoid full moons.

The first half of spring, around late March/beginning of April, is a good time to visit if you’re hoping to avoid the winter months but don’t want to hit peak season in summer. It’s also a great time to see the tiny Shetland ponies.

The temperature is likely to vary a lot, with the average high being around 9 Celcius (48 Fahrenheit) but the days start getting longer.

While not common, snow can still appear in spring though, so make sure you always pack layers and be prepared for anything.

Shetland average temperature by month

Festivals and celebrations on the shetland islands.

Aside from getting the best weather, something else to consider is if you want to mix it with the Shetland locals in some of their traditional festivities throughout the year. Here is a quick overview of some of the main celebrations throughout the islands.

Lerwick Up-Helly-A’ and other fire festivals

Held on the last Tuesday in January, this is one of Europe’s biggest fire festivals and an amazing sight to see. Probably the biggest event in the Shetland Islands. More than a Thousand Guizers (guisers) parade through Lerwick with flaming torches and burn a full-sized replica Viking galley. The festival concludes with Fire Festivities at the War Memorial Park.

Check out the Up-Helly-A’ website for more information on this epic celebration.

Scalloway Fire Festival

Another fire festival, this one celebrated in Scalloway in January, usually a couple of weeks before the Lerwick Up-Helly-A’. It is a smaller event but still attracts many visitors and participants.

Throughout the first few months of the year, there are many other smaller Up-Helly-a’ celebrations throughout the islands including Lerwick Junior Up Helly Aa, Uyeasound, Norwick and more. Check the calendar below for more information.

Shetland Folk Festival

In late April and into May the Shetland Folk Festival arrives. The annual festival is organised by a voluntary committee and features concerts from some of the best international, British, and Shetland music talent. The festival takes place throughout the isles and is a great opportunity to see some of the best traditional Shetland music performances.

Simmer Dim Bikers Rally

The Simmer Dim Bikers Rally is a motorcycle rally that takes place annually in Shetland, UK. The rally usually happens around the 21st of June and sees hundreds of visitors come to the islands to participate in the event. The rally is focused on bikes, but also includes music and beer tents as part of the festivities.

UnstFest on Britain’s most northerly island hosts Britain’s most northerly festival! A whole week of fun activities and events usually takes place in July.

During my visit with my wife, we were able to enjoy some of the UnstFest community activities. It was clear that the whole island buys into it and really enjoys the celebrations. They were capped off by a rock bagpipe concert that was as awesome as it sounded.

What really struck me was just how welcoming everyone was at all of the events. Unst was a special place and being able to be there during UnstFest just made it that little bit better.

Shetland Nature Festival

Also in July is the Shetland Nature Festival, a celebration of the unique natural heritage of the Shetland Islands. The festival takes place throughout the islands, and features guided walks, family days out, evening talks, and more. The festival is a great opportunity to learn more about the local flowers, fossils, seabirds, and seals that call the Shetlands home.

Shetland Boat Week

In August is the Shetland Boat week, a celebration of the Shetland’s maritime heritage. The festival features lots of events and activities, including demonstrations of traditional skills, talks, boat trips and tours of vessels not normally open to the public.

Shetland Wool Week

The Shetland Wool Week is a celebration of the best of Shetland’s knitters and crofters, their sheep, and the wool they produce. The festival is a week-long event with lots of events throughout Shetland showcasing wool themed tours, evening talks, Shetland craft workshops, and more.

The fact it happens just as the weather turns and everyone starts to appreciate a good woolly jumper is either a coincidence or marketing genius!

Shetland Events by month

Here is a rough guide for your calendar. Please bear in mind it is based on past events, so there may be some varience for specific events.

You can see more details on all of the events on the Shetland Visitor website .

How much it will cost to visit Shetland?

The final thing to cover is probably the most important part of planning … how much will it cost me?

First, let’s talk about seasons. As with most of the UK there is a huge amount of seasonality in visits to the Shetland Islands with most people visiting in the Summer.

As you would expect, the demand on local hotels and guest houses does push the price up. However, when looking at the average rates throughout the year, there is only about a £20-£30 difference in average cost for accommodation with August statistically being the most expensive month.

Obviously, if you are camping, that will be quite a bit less, but you will likely be more restricted on the timing of your visit by the weather.

Aside from accommodation, you also have the cost of travel to Shetland. The options are to either fly or hop on a ferry.

As is commonplace these days with flights, demand drives the price, so as you’d expect they are more expensive in the summer, especially once the school holidays start.

There is also seasonality in the ferry prices. They offer low, mid and high season prices with the high season being about 45% more than in low season and mid (as you’d expect) somewhere in the middle.

For example, if two of you travel by ferry with a car and a 2 berth cabin, in the low season you can expect to pay around £250, but the same in the high season would be £350.

Check out my other post for more information in this where I talk about how to get to the Shetland Islands .

So, wrapping this section up, if money is no problem, it doesn’t matter too much, but if you would like to save a few ££, but still have a good chance of clement weather, then look to the shoulder seasons of June or late September.

Final thoughts – what is the best time to visit the Shetland Islands

So with everything above considered, I’m really happy with when I visited in July and probably wouldn’t change it knowing what I know now. I really recommend checking out Unstfest and it wasn’t very busy, perfect if you are looking to get away from it all.

As a second visit, I think I would try to visit in January to take in one of the fire festivals and try to catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights.

One thing is for sure though, I found The Shetland Islands to be a special place that is worthy of a visit any time of the year and a place that I know deep inside I will return to one day.

I hope you found this post helps to plan your trip to Shetland. If you also have any recommendations for others reading this, please drop them in the comments, I’d love to see them.

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Shetland guide: TV series, the pony, and how to get to the islands by ferry

Escape to a wild archipelago at the crossroads of the North Atlantic and the North Sea, where the drama of the landscape outdoes any action seen in the eponymous TV crime series. Here is our visitor's guide to Scotland's Shetland Islands.

Esther Rutter

Shetland, or the Shetland Islands, is a group of about 100 islands, 16 inhabited, located around 110 miles north of the Scottish mainland.

Almost half of Shetland’s population of 23,000 live in and around Lerwick, which is on the biggest island, known as Mainland. The two next biggest isles are Yell and Unst. Regular ro-ro ferries connect them.

Shetland is rugged, its ragged, 1,679-mile coastline punctuated by breathtaking beaches, making it one of the most beautiful island groups in the UK . Burra Isle and the South Mainland have glorious white sands, as do Yell, Unst and Northmavine. The cliffs range from (arguably) the highest sea cliff in Britain, on remote Foula, to the easily accessible array at Eshaness. Stand at the edge of the immense slash in the rock called Calder’s Geo, look down and you can see the entrance to Britain’s biggest sea cave.

Shetland is a place of extremes. People come for the remoteness, to be at the end of Britain. Once here, though, the world tilts on its axis and you start seeing everywhere else as far away from what is, after all, “the hilt of the sword”.

Discover everything you need to know about these far-flung islands with our beginner's guide to Shetland, including how to get there, places to visit, where to stay and eat, and island wildlife.

Where are the Shetland Islands?

Shetland is located around 110 miles north of the Scottish mainland. You are well on the way to the Faroe Islands, Iceland and Norway – the Shetland capital Lerwick is further north than Oslo – and the Scandinavian influence here is strong.

You may also like:

• Guide to Scotland’s great trails: history and best walks
• Scotland’s best walks
• Scottish islands guide: best to visit and how to get there

How do you get to the Shetland Islands?

How to get to shetland by air.

Loganair flies direct to Shetland from Glasgow, Edinburgh, Aberdeen and Orkney.

How to get to Shetland by sea

There are nightly NorthLink Ferries sailings from Aberdeen (twice a week via Orkney) to Lerwick, taking 12 to 14 hours. Cabins and sleeping pods are available.

What you are looking for is a calm, clear summer’s night, and preferably one of the 14-hour overnight sailings from Aberdeen via Orkney. Then, if you’re lucky, the ferry trip to Shetland will be a mini-cruise, including dolphins, orcas , a sighting of the Orcadian sea-stack called the Old Man of Hoy and a sailing into the ‘simmer dim’ – Shetland dialect for the midnight sun of midsummer, when twilight lingers through the short night.

The morning arrival in Lerwick never fails to touch the soul. True, sometimes a delayed, rough trip cannoning into a big north-easterly can bring a more physical relief when you finally step on to dry land, but watching the morning sun glitter off fishing boats as they hustle for landing space fairly warms the heart.

What is the population of the Shetland Islands?

Shetland has a population of 23,000 people, half of whom live in and around Lerwick, which is on the biggest island, known as Mainland.

Shetland, the TV series

The BBC TV crime drama Shetland has been a worldwide smash hit and attracted thousands of tourists to the isles. No visit to Lerwick is complete without viewing ‘Jimmy Perez’s House’: the wonderful Lodberry in Lerwick, now complete with an embedded ‘Hollywood’ star for actor Douglas Henshall.

In general the show is regarded with great affection, but occasional shrugs of mystification: why on Earth did they have to film that bit in Greenock? Why does the only native Shetland actor portray a bumbling buffoon? And most of all, that playing fast and loose with geography: you can’t walk across the St Ninian’s Isle tombolo and end up in Nesting!

But the cast and crew have made themselves very popular, their presence has brought financial benefit to the isles, and they’ve been sensitive to local concerns, on the whole. Except, no, you definitely cannot see Norway from Lerwick!

History and heritage of Shetland

The name itself comes from Viking days: the Old Norse ‘Hjaltland’ is generally thought to mean ‘the hilt of a sword’. The Vikings displaced most of the native Picts in AD900, and Shetland only became part of Scotland in the 15th century. Up Helly Aa, an annual series of fire festivals marking the start of winter’s slippage into spring, celebrates the Viking heritage with galley-burning and committed partying into the night and beyond dawn.

Shetland wildlife

On Shetland’s shores, the birds are glorious in their variety and occasionally scary. Bonxies (great skuas) will attack if they think you are a threat. The autumn rarities that come fluttering, such as ruffs, little stints and curlew sandpipers bring groups of enthusiastic birdwatchers, and occasionally the kind of mass twitch that sees chartered planeloads of birders arrive, all camouflaged lenses and Gore-Tex.

• Guide to British seabirds: how to identify and where to see them

And then there are the sea mammals. Seals, porpoises, dolphins and whales bring with them a sense of wonder at nature’s sheer power.

Walking in Shetland

Lerwick waterfront and clickimin broch.

4 miles; 2 hours

From Victoria Pier in Lerwick, head along the least-modernised part of Commercial Street with its lodberries (stone stores built into the sea). Follow the coast to the cemetery, then up to Knab promontory for incredible views. Stay on the coast to Tesco; cross the road to the preserved Clickimin Pictish Broch. Walk on the main road back to start.

Eshaness and Grind o’ da Navir

4–6 miles; 2–3 hours

Easily accessible by car – park at Eshaness Lighthouse – this is a classic walk that is safe and easy if the weather is good and you stay away from cliff edges. The scenery is spectacular – walk north along the coast to the Grind, a natural amphitheatre.

Places to visit in Shetland

When you have finished wandering the wild shores and hills of Shetland, there is plenty more to see and do. For such a small population, the arts scene and other facilities are impressive. The arrival of oil in the 1970s brought wealth both individually and collectively. There are eight modern leisure centres with swimming pools if you fancy a dip indoors, and there are award-winning museums plus a state-of-the-art cinema and performance complex called Mareel in Lerwick. But it’s sometimes the almost complete absence of potholes on the roads that impresses visitors most.

Here are a few ideas to get you started:

Calder’s Geo

From Calder’s Geo, look down and you can see the entrance to Britain’s biggest sea cave, thought to be some 20 metres tall and covering 5,600 square metres. Few have ever been inside, as the sea conditions make access only possible for the intrepid.

The Shetland Museum and Archives Hay’s Dock

Just along from Mareel, the boat hall and outdoor seafaring exhibits at Shetland Museum & Archives are wonderful. There's a very good shop and café, too.

Bonhoga Gallery Weisdale

In a former mill, Bonhoga has permanent and touring exhibitions of both local and international work, with a pleasant café.

Hoswick Visitor Centre

Hoswick Visitor Centre is a really interesting community-run craft and cultural centre. Yet another wonderful café.

Wherever you go, the sea is nearly always within sight and sound. The most poignant memorial to its role in Shetland life – its power to bereave and enrich – is perhaps found at Fethaland, a long walk in from the road-end at North Roe, in the north of Mainland. This was once Shetland’s busiest haaf (deep-sea) fishing station, from where men would spend entire springs and summers heading up to 40 miles out to sea in open boats to fish. Now the tiny stone booths they lived in are deserted, but an outcrop of soapstone (steatite) bears some of those fishermen’s initials, and the dates they spent here. There’s one from 1866, sharp and clear as the knife that carved it.

Shetland Textile Museum Lerwick

Shetland Textile Museum Lerwick is located in the Böd of Gremista. An old fishing booth, some of the classic Fair Isle designs are gathered here.

Sumburgh Head Lighthouse

Explore the history and natural heritage of Sumburgh Head from Iron Age settlers to today. And, of course, the lighthouse itself. Shetland’s only German café is here.

Jarlshof Prehistoric Settlement

Near Sumburgh Airport are the remarkable ruins of Jarlshof , a settlement that was occupied for almost 4,000 years, since around 2700 BC through Norse times.

Mousa is the best preserved Pictish broch (roundhouse) in Europe; regular ferries go to the island.

Scalloway Castle, Mainland

A wonderfully spooky ruin, once the centre of power in Shetland. The community-run Scalloway Museum is next door.

The island of Unst has more archaeological sites per square mile than almost anywhere else in Britain, and yet its remoteness makes it less visited. Start with the restored Viking longhouse and the longship Skipbladner.

Clickimin is easy to find in Lerwick, and there are ruined broch sites throughout the isles.

Best places to stay in Shetland

You can stay in the former keeper’s quarters at several of Shetland’s lighthouses – Bressay and Eshaness especially – but Sumburgh Head really is the last word. Self-catering for five people in three luxurious bedrooms. Cosy, grand and quite awesomely positioned. From £96 for one night.

Busta House Hotel, Brae

Busta House Hotel comes with its very own ghost (a grey lady, one of many in Scotland). This 16th-century (much extended) mansion is quirky, luxurious and comes with its own lovely gardens and harbour. Great food and one of the best collections of single malt whisky in the isles. From £115 for a double room.

Westshore, Mainland

A self-catering cottage like nowhere else in Shetland, Westshore is cutting-edge architecture married to the walls of an ancient crofthouse. Stunning outside and in, there are views across Vaila Sound. From £500 for five nights.

Best places to eat and drink

The peerie shop café, lerwick.

The Peerie Shop Cafe has great daytime coffee, home-made scones, cakes and spectacular soups and sandwiches. A real institution and one you’ll want to linger in.

Frankie’s Fish and Chips, Brae

Winner of several national awards, Frankie's fish comes from a single boat and the menu includes mussels, scallops and a host of other offshore goodies. Takeaway, or there’s an outdoor terrace and you can reserve an indoor table in advance. Not licensed.

St Magnus Bay Hotel, Hillswick

St Magnus Bay Hotel is a place of generous hospitality, a warm welcome and huge portions. The Sunday lunchtime carvery is legendary. Afternoon tea is also a wonder to behold.

The Dowry, Lerwick

The Dowry is a great modern café bar with ‘small plates’ of local food in the evenings. Splendid for coffee but a good selection of beers and wines, too.

The Lounge Bar, Lerwick

Head up the stairs to the Lounge’s lounge. Wednesday evenings are the best for sessions by or with local musicians. The downstairs public bar is more – how can I put this? – uncompromising.

Traditional Shetland food

I could mention the great local dishes – reestit mutton soup, bannocks, cod cheeks, herring in oatmeal – but I’ll just say that, in summer, the best of Shetland food is to be found at the Sunday community-hall teas. Fancies (homebakes), pies, that aforementioned soup, bannocks of all sizes, and often crafts on sale, too. Look for adverts in The Shetland Times, online at shetnews.co.uk or on noticeboards. shetlandtimes.co.uk

• Best islands to visit in the UK
• Spring wildlife guide: how to identify and where to see
• Scotland’s North Coast 500 guide: how to plan your ultimate road trip

Shetland economy

Fishing and fish-farming still provide good work for Shetlanders; as do oil and gas, so there is little unemployment. Farming, in the Highland form of smallholding called crofting, is a major activity – though usually combined with some other form of work.

Look out for the native Shetland sheep: it is small, hardy and produces, from its belly, a wool so fine that it can be worn next to the skin. The first successful Everest expedition was equipped with Shetland wool gansies (jumpers) and you can still buy an Everest sweater today. Shetland sheep are also renowned for the taste and quality of their meat; the lamb or mutton from the animals that feed on shoreline seaweed is a taste never to be equalled or forgotten.

• Guide to Britain's sheep breeds

Discover Shetland's knitwear

Traditional knitwear is still widely produced and is one of the major aspects of the tourism industry, with the annual Shetland Wool Week attracting thousands of visitors in late September, many armed with knitting needles. This annual celebration of all things woollen offers talks, workshops, tours and events to suit knitters of all skill levels. There are also online events and an archive of free patterns available. At other times of the year, Misa Hay runs a series of knitting-themed tours and events around the island throughout the year, as well as producing the Shetland Wool Adventures Journal .

Are there trees on Shetland?

Trees. People always mention the absence of them from Shetland, but it's hard not to love the sightlines, the vastness of the skies, from the ‘steekit stumbas’ (foggy autumn days with low red suns) to the harsh snaps of winter and the summer’s endless light. Besides, the woodlands at Kergord on Mainland, Halligarth on Unst and elsewhere prove there are trees in Shetland.

Traditional Shetland music and dance

Music, particularly traditional fiddling, remains a big part of Shetland’s cultural life, and the Wednesday and weekend session at Lerwick’s legendary Lounge Bar provide plenty of tuneful action. Serious players and beginners alike can learn from the best at the regular events – notably the Shetland Folk Festival in spring and the Shetland Accordion and Fiddle Festival every October.

The Boston two-step, the islands’ favourite dance, can leave strong men and women ‘spaegied’ (weak and aching) for a week after taking part.

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The Best Time to Visit Shetland Islands, the United Kingdom for Weather, Safety, & Tourism

The best times to visit Shetland Islands for ideal weather are

May 28th to July 1st

based on average temperature and humidity from NOAA (the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration). Read below for more weather and travel details.

Shetland Islands Travel Guide

Temperature.

• Perceived Temperature
• Rain and snow
• Humidity and wind
• The busiest and least popular months
• Overall travel experience by time of year

Other Shetland Islands Travel Info

Weather in shetland islands.

Average temperatures in Shetland Islands vary somewhat. Considering humidity, temperatures feel cold all year with a chance of rain or snow throughout most of the year. The area is far less temperate than some — in the bottom 1 percentile for pleasant weather — compared to tourist destinations worldwide. Weeks with ideal weather are listed above . If you’re looking for the very warmest time to visit Shetland Islands, the hottest months are August, July, and then September. See average monthly temperatures below. The warmest time of year is generally late July where highs are regularly around 59.3°F (15.2°C) with temperatures rarely dropping below 47°F (8.3°C) at night.

Shetland Islands Temperatures (Fahrenheit)

Shetland islands temperatures (celsius), “feels-like” temperatures.

The way we experience weather isn’t all about temperature. Higher temperatures affect us much more at higher humidity, and colder temperatures feel piercing with high winds. Our perceived temperatures factor in humidity and wind chill to better represent how hot or cold the day feels to a person.

Shetland Islands Perceived Temperature (F)

Shetland islands perceived temperature (c), average shetland islands temperatures by month.

Daily highs (averaged for the month) usually give the best indication of the weather. A significantly lower mean and low generally just means it gets colder at night.

Show Fahrenheit

Show celsius, precipitation (rain or snow).

If dry weather is what you’re after, the months with the lowest chance of significant precipitation in Shetland Islands are June, July, and then May. Note that we define “significant precipitation” as .1 inches or more in this section. The lowest chance of rain or snow occurs around early June. For example, on the week of June 4th there is 1 day of precipitation on average. By contrast, it’s most likely to rain or snow in mid December with an average of 5 days of significant precipitation the week of December 17th.

Chance of Precipitation

The graph below shows the % chance of rainy and snowy days in Shetland Islands.

Snow on the Ground

The graph below shows the average snow on the ground in Shetland Islands (in).

Average Rain and Snow by Month

Show inches, show centimeters, humidity and wind.

Shetland Islands has some extremely humid months, and high humidity throughout the year. The least humid month is March (77.6% relative humidity), and the most humid month is July (86.2%).

Wind in Shetland Islands is usually stronger than many places . The windiest month is January, followed by December and February. January’s average wind speed of around 18.4 knots (21.1 MPH or 34 KPH) is considered “a fresh breeze.” Maximum sustained winds (the highest speed for the day lasting more than a few moments) are at their highest in early March where average top sustained speeds reach 29.2 knots, which is considered high wind or moderate gale winds.

Relative Humidity (%)

The graph below shows the average % humidity by month in Shetland Islands.

The graph below shows wind speed (max and average) in knots.

Average Wind Speeds

Show wind speeds.

All wind speeds are in knots. 1 knot = 1.15 MPH or 1.85 KPH.

Show Relative Humidity by Month

Is it safe to travel to shetland islands.

Our best data indicates this area is somewhat safe. As of Dec 04, 2023 there are travel warnings for the United Kingdom; exercise a high degree of caution. Check this page for any recent changes or regions to avoid: Travel Advice and Advisories . This advisory was last updated on Nov 27, 2023.

The Busiest and Least Crowded Months

The busiest month for tourism in Shetland Islands, the United Kingdom is August, followed by July and September. Prices for hotels and flights will be most expensive during these months, though you can save if you purchase well in advance. Tourists are unlikely to visit Shetland Islands in December. Those willing to visit at these times will likely find it the least expensive month.

Estimated Tourism by Month

Most popular months to visit, overall shetland islands travel experience by season, spring (march through may).

Humidity and temperatures combine to make this season feel moderately cold. Highs range from 53.5°F (11.9°C) and 43.6°F (6.4°C) with warmer temperatures in the later months. Rain is very common with 9 to 12 days of significant precipitation per month. Spring is the second busiest for tourism, which makes it a good time for those looking for things to do.

Summer (June through August)

The middle-year months have cold weather with high temperatures that are brisk. These months see the least precipitation with 5 to 10 days of precipitation per month. June – August is the busiest season for tourism in Shetland Islands, so lodging and other accommodations may cost more than usual.

Fall (September through November)

Fall daily highs range from 56.4°F (13.6°C) and 43.6°F (6.4°C), which will feel chilly given the humidity and wind. It rains or snows a great amount: 11 to 15 days per month. Tourism is fairly slow during these months due to the weather, so hotels may be lower priced.

Winter (December through February)

Weather is too cold this time of year in Shetland Islands to be enjoyable for warm weather travelers. The average high during this season is between 43.8°F (6.6°C) and 41.3°F (5.2°C). On average, it rains or snows a very great amount: 14 to 17 times per month. These times of year are the slowest with tourists.

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When is the best time to see orcas in Shetland?

Karen Hall is one of those lucky people whose job is also the same as their passion. In her case, spotting orcas and other marine wildlife in Shetland. Karen’s research is valuable for anyone hoping to witness killer whales, and confirms the creatures regularly visit the islands all year round.

It’s the kind of question that is frequently asked by those planning a trip to the islands, or by residents who hope to witness an amazing natural spectacle.

The honest answer is that sightings are never guaranteed, but Shetland is one of the best locations for whale watching in the UK. And there is increasing evidence that orcas can be seen at any time of the year.

That claim is based on a database of reported sightings, with information collated from a range of sources including social media groups and other websites.

One of those helping keep track of the data is Karen Hall, a NatureScot policy and advice officer specialising in marine mammals based in Shetland’s capital town, Lerwick. It’s a role she’s been doing for many years, having joined NatureScot over 20 years ago as an area officer.

Over that time, she’s compiled a mass of information revealing how often, and at what time of year, orcas are spotted in Shetland.

Karen says there was a longstanding belief that killer whales were more likely to visit Shetland in the summer. Statistics have now shown that to be a misconception.

While July is a prime time for sightings, there are also a high number of whales seen from October through to January.

An ever-growing network of residents, whale watching tourists and local experts have also helped build up a better understanding of how many orcas frequent the waters around Shetland, and when.

You can have some days following killer whales from sunup to sundown following them up the east coast of Shetland. Other days you might only get a fleeting glance.

“At certain times of the year, it felt like you would be seeing killer whales every day. What we have discovered is that it’s limited to certain pods [which visit regularly].

However, despite the frequency of visits there is always uncertainty about when and where wild animals may appear.

“You can have some days following killer whales from sunup to sundown following them up the east coast of Shetland. Other days you might only get a fleeting glance.

“Compiling data means we can compare what we see year-on-year, and we are seeing similar trends. That is helping us build a better picture about what is happening. This wouldn’t be possible without the network of folk reporting sightings in Shetland.

“Any time really is a good time to see orcas, but the data gives us an indication of when you might have the best chance.”

While some of the data suggests there are an increasing number of killer whales, Karen is cautious about interpreting the figures that way. That’s largely because the advent of social media channels and the rollout of 4G connectivity across Shetland, meaning there is much greater visibility.

In the early 2000s, there were sporadic reports of sightings but no proper method of recording them. “We would hear about them on the grapevine”, says Karen. Then in 2007 Andy Foote, a PhD student from the University of Aberdeen, began a research project about Shetland’s killer whales, which included recruiting volunteers to help record sightings.

That marked a step-change in the availability of data that has continued to develop, undoubtedly helped by the advent of social media and the creation of Shetland Orca Sightings , a Facebook group with over 36,000 members.

As the numbers suggest, there has been widespread buy-in to the idea of reporting sightings. Something which Karen points out has been boosted even further with the rollout of 4G across Shetland. Often fishing boat crews are even able to post about orcas and other whale sightings while working the waters off the Shetland coast. Not only does that provide important data but it also updates keen wildlife watchers.

Karen says: “Whether it’s people who have lived in Shetland all their lives or visitors, they have the best opportunity to see these animals in their natural environment.

“That’s great, however, social media means people want everything instantly and people sometimes have unrealistic expectations, that you can predict what’s going to happen. You have to be patient and sometimes you will be lucky, other times you will miss out. I spend a lot of time sea watching – some days I am very lucky and can spot something before breakfast from my house, others its frustration spending hours studying whale shaped waves!”

That uncertainty adds to the thrill of seeing any wild animal. And when it happens, the feeling never grows old.

“Every sighting is different,” says Karen, “and every sighting leaves you with something. Whether it’s an ‘almost’ sighting or an exceptional sighting, there’s still that sense of ‘wow, I’m able to see these amazing creatures’.”

As different as they may be, some experiences live longer in the memory than others.

“I have seen them right below me at Sumburgh Head at midnight in the simmer dim, where else could you do that? That’s when you realise how lucky you are to be in Shetland.

“I am incredibly fortunate that watching killer whales is part of my job and my obsession.”

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Adam Civico

Adam Civico is Head of Content Marketing at NB Communication, helping deliver the Promote Shetland service.

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13 Experiences You Need to Have in Shetland

October 16, 2019 by Silvia 9 Comments

I visited Shetland as part of a paid partnership with VisitScotland, PromoteShetland, and NorthLink Ferries

That’s right, you  need to visit Shetland.

Okay fine, I’m not here to boss you around. But if you ever find yourself craving an escape to a magical land, read this post. Wait but don’t leave! Since you’re here you should read this post now, and then I can pretty much guarantee that you’ll find yourself craving that escape.

I had been wanting to visit Shetland for ages, and in fact this is not the first time Shetland has featured on this blog.

My friend Rachel spent a month in Shetland and shared her experiences in a guest post here , and she had me at pristine beaches, she had me again at Norwegian history, and then at puffins, and then at Up Helly Aa, until I found myself in the position you too will soon be in: I  needed to visit Shetland.

But what should you do when you go? 

Here are my top experiences in Shetland, any one of which I’d say is reason enough to visit:

Enjoy your overnight ferry to Shetland

Shetland was definitely one of those trips where part of the experience was the journey there.

I took the overnight ferry from Aberdeen, which left at 7 pm, made a late night stop at Orkney, and then arrived to Lerwick at 7 am.

I love an overnight ferry – there’s something so romantic about sleeping on a boat. And my cabin was very cosy.

NorthLink Ferries have also made the journey quite an experience, with an on board shop selling local products, a cinema, and restaurants serving meals made with locally sourced produce.

On my way there I was given access to their Magnus Lounge, which offers an even fancier dining experience in their exclusive dining and lounge area. Sometimes eating in a restaurant alone can feel awkward, but I was so happy to be on my own this time so I could just gaze out at the sea as I ate.

Experience all the weather

And I mean  all  the weather.

In Norway we say you can experience every season in a single day, but in Shetland I felt like I experienced all four seasons in the space of an hour. These islands have a lot of weather, which I guess makes sense considering they’ve got the North Sea coming at them on the one side, and the Atlantic Ocean on the other.

And while the sunny bits were obviously lovely, I also found all the wind and rain quite exciting – especially that time when I felt like I might literally blow off the side of a cliff. I could just picture where I was on a map, caught between the North Sea and Atlantic winds.

Coastal walks

About 160 kilometers north of the Scottish mainland, the Shetland Islands mark the northernmost part of Scotland. Shetland consists of over a hundred islands, though only fifteen are inhabited, and they have a population of around 23,000 people. In other words, you’ll find a lot of quiet open spaces and coastline here. I mean, Shetland is pretty much all coastlines, which is a good thing because the Shetland coast is  stunning .

I had so many wonderful experiences in Shetland, but I could have happily spent my entire time in the islands simply walking along the coast.

I did a few longer 3-4 hour coastal hikes and each time I had to drag myself back to my car – I would have loved to explore the coastline all day everyday.

I’ll write more about which walks and hikes I did in my next post, but my favorite two were to the Hams of Muckle Roe and the cliffs of Eshaness . The scenery was spectacular (and I’m saying that as someone who lives in Norway!) and I loved the peace and quiet. It was such a good way to get away from the stresses of normal life and spend some time with my thoughts and nature’s beauty.

The Craft Trail

When people ask me what my favorite part of travel is, I’m always torn between seeing all the beautiful views and meeting all the interesting people. Luckily in Shetland I could do both!

As a solo traveler it’s usually very easy to meet other travelers, but I can be shy about approaching locals when I’m on my own. So I loved following Shetland’s Craft Trail to visit craft workshops and open studios, where I could speak with locals about their lives in Shetland. And I can’t think of a better way to get to know these islands than speaking to the people who are inspired to create here.

Again, I’ll write more about which workshops and studios I visited in my next post.

Shetland ponies

I was never one of those girls who obsessed over horses, so I figured it would be fun to see some Shetland ponies and that would be it.

Um, I am  not over Shetland ponies. And somehow Facebook knows so now my feed is full of them. They’re just so cute! And have so much personality, and somehow everything they do is funny? Maybe they wouldn’t appreciate my saying that (but it’s true).

On my first day in Shetland I drove to Bridge-End in Burra for the Shetland Pony Experience , where I got to meet some Shetland ponies, learn about their history, and take a walk with one along a beach.

The Shetland Pony Experience costs £30 and lasts about an hour, including hot coffee or tea at the end, where you can talk more to the owners about the ponies and life in Shetland.

And I’m so glad I did this, because it gave me the confidence to go and say hi to all the other ponies I saw around Shetland.

Oh and they took photos of me with their pony Duster. This probably sounds weird coming from a blogger, but I’m usually way too shy to ask someone to take a photo of me – most of the photos of me on this blog were taken on a tripod, far, far away from any possible onlookers.

So I was very excited when Barbara offered to take some photos with my phone, getting a bunch of different angles and enough shots that there was a good chance my eyes were open in one of them. In fact I’d say these were my favorite photos from Shetland, as they remind me of that fun afternoon when I fell in love with Shetland ponies.

When I first drafted this post about five of the experiences involved wool, so I decided to just be vague and say that at some point in Shetland you need to have an experience with wool.

Oh and you will!

People say that Shetland is where Scotland meets Scandinavia, and you can definitely see this in our mutual love for all things wool. I had to laugh as I wrote that because I’m currently wearing one of my favorite wool sweaters, curled up on my sheepskin chair, wrapped in a wool blanket, knitting this blog post out of wool yarn. 

Just kidding, I’m on my laptop. But if there’s anywhere you’d see someone knitting a blog post it would have to be either Norway or Shetland. These people really love their wool! And after meeting some Shetland sheep I can’t blame them. 

My world travels have taught me a lot, including the cruel truth that not all sheep around the world are born beautiful. And now I’m starting to wonder if there’s something magical about this point where the North Sea meets the Atlantic that has made all living creatures on these islands more attractive. Because just like Shetland ponies, the sheep I saw in Shetland were so cute!

I also happened to be in Shetland for their tenth annual Shetland Wool Week , which was quite the experience. Wool lovers from around the world gather in Shetland each year for a week full of workshops, events, and exchanges all centering around wool.

And apparently everyone participating gets sent a hat pattern to knit before arriving in Shetland. So if you visit Shetland and notice large groups of people sporting the same knitted hat, don’t worry, Shetland doesn’t have some weird wool cult. Well, it’s not  quite a cult.

But even if you’re not in Shetland for Wool Week, you can still get your fill of wool experiences at local shops and workshops. I especially recommend visiting the shops and workshops of  Ninian in Lerwick and Nielanell in Hoswick, which I’ll write a bit more about in my next post.

Enjoy some local music

I once again experienced Shetland’s blend of Scottish and Scandinavian heritage at a fiddle concert at Mareel Art Centre in Lerwick, and oh my goodness, you should too!

I used to be in an Irish dance company so I have a particular fondness for fiddle music, but I think anyone would enjoy an evening of Shetland music while visiting the islands. Shetland has a strong fiddle tradition, and I’ve heard that it’s the dream destination of choice for any fiddle player. 

I would also love to return for the   someday. There’s even a massive tall ship that sails to Shetland from Norway for the festival, where passengers can learn shanty sailing and singing as they cross the North Sea.

The Scalloway Museum

Anyone who knows me will be surprised that a museum is featuring on this list, as usually visiting museums is the last thing I want to do on my travels. I want to be out experiencing the actual place, not inside reading about it! I know, I know, I’m so uncultured.

But maybe I’m not, because I  loved  the Scalloway Museum . First of all, it’s tiny so I didn’t have time to get my usual museum fatigue.

But mostly I loved their exhibit about the Shetland Bus , which was a clandestine operation linking Shetland and Norway during World War II. I hadn’t known much about this, but when I shared some of the exhibit on Instagram I received lots of messages from Norwegians saying how important Shetland’s help was to Norway during the German occupation.

And I was so surprised to see the exhibit translated into Norwegian!

The Scalloway Museum also happens to be right next to a castle, no big deal.

The Shetland Museum & Archives

Wait, what? Another museum is featuring on this list? 

I’ll admit, I went here for the gift shop. I wanted a cute Wool Week mug! But I accidentally made eye contact with one of the curators when I arrived and felt awkward about heading straight to the gift shop, so I smoothly changed directions and headed into the exhibit instead.

While hiding out, waiting for the curator to get distracted by someone else, I began reading about Shetland’s history, and then I read more and more and about forty minutes later I had made my way through the museum and nearly left the building without my mug.

Maybe you’re supposed to say this of everywhere, but Shetland actually does have such an interesting history! And I mean, how could it not, considering its location?

I remember chatting with some local women about how remote Shetland feels, and one of them pointed out that that’s one of the interesting things about Shetland. When you’re walking along the coast it really can feel like these islands are in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by unending oceans, but if you think about trade routes and the importance of the North Sea and the Atlantic, Shetland is actually sort of in the middle of everything.

Up Helly Aa

Everyone in Shetland kept telling me to return for Up Helly Aa , a series of twelve fire festivals held from January to March. While I can’t tell you much about them myself, besides that they sound  crazy , I can say that Up Helly Aa definitely seems to be an experience to be had in Shetland.

Oh and while the festival in Lerwick in January is the most famous, locals told me that the ones in the countryside are actually the best, so there’s an inside tip for you!

Go on a wildlife walk

I’ve already raved about the beauty of the Shetland coast, but it’s also an incredible place for wildlife. Depending on the time of year, you can spot otters, orcas, puffins, seals, and all sorts of rare birds.

Unless you’re like me and apparently blind to wildlife? One afternoon while on Burra I joined a group of people who had gathered to excitedly point at… some waves in the distance? I had a full schedule so couldn’t stick around, but later that day I heard that there was a pod of killer whales off the coast of Burra that afternoon, whoops.

If you share my struggle don’t worry, you can get professional help. By which I mean you can go on a wildlife walk with a professional wildlife photographer!

I joined Richard Shucksmith of Shetland Photo Tours  for about five hours one morning to watch otters. I had never gotten so close to an otter before, and it really was quite exciting. Richard knows the coastline and otter behaviors well enough that we could follow our new friend along on his breakfast trip without disturbing him.

While Richard also offers photography guidance on his tours, in my experience trying to capture photos of wildlife always ends in frustration (because I’m so bad at it lol), so I chose to watch through his binoculars instead.

Fish and chips

You can’t visit Shetland without grabbing lunch at the UK’s most northerly fish and chip shop!

To be honest I didn’t actually have fish and chips at Frankie’s , but instead the chickpea burger and chips – I just don’t tend to love deep fried fish. I wouldn’t even have admitted this, except that the chickpea burger was  so good, you have to get it! And the chips really were amazing, so I wasn’t surprised to see the sign on the wall announcing that Frankie’s Fish & Chips had been voted the number one fish and chip shop in the UK in 2015.

I also really enjoyed the vibe at Frankie’s, particularly when the staff all started casually singing along to “Torn” on the radio. Like I don’t think that’s part of the service? You’ll have to tell me if you also get a show with your lunch when you go. 

Stay at Busta House Hotel

I spent my first two nights in Shetland at Busta House Hotel , and while most of the time I spent there I was asleep, my stay still managed to be a highlight of my trip.

Both breakfast and dinner there were incredible, but really what made my stay so special was the rich sense of history in the house. In fact the earliest part of the house was built all the way back in 1588. I always want my accommodation to reflect the place I’m staying, and I can’t imagine Busta House Hotel being anywhere but in Shetland.

There also might be a story about a ghost that I was very happy not to have heard until after I checked out.

And there you have it! Now if you’re wondering how to fit all of these experiences into a single trip, I’ve got you covered. I’ll be sharing my one week Shetland itinerary in my next blog post. 

You can also find more information about planning your Shetland trip at Shetland.org and NorthLink Ferries

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October 22, 2019 at 1:16 am

I’m rather obsessed with Shetland and consider it my soul home. So glad you had a good time there (though I think it would be impossible to have a bad time). The Hams of Muckle Roe and Eshaness are two of my favourite walks, along with Hermaness in Unst. Up Helly Aa (in Lerwick) is probably the best thing I’ve been to and I always watch the live feed on the internet now and wish I could be there to attend one of the halls. It’s a shame there’s no longer a ferry between Shetland and Norway – that’s a journey I’d love to do.

Silvia says

October 23, 2019 at 3:20 pm

Oh I didn’t know there’s a live feed from Up Helly Aa – I’ll have to check it out! And I agree it’s such a shame that there’s no longer a ferry from Norway. I hope they bring it back one day!

October 26, 2019 at 8:48 am

How great that I came to your blog for Norway tips, and you’re posting about the Shetlands also! We’re visiting there (and the Orkney’s!) after a few weeks in Norway/Sweden next year for my partners 40th – 7 weeks on holiday!!

October 27, 2019 at 2:54 pm

Oh that’s wonderful! And wow, sounds like an amazing trip.

Ashley says

October 27, 2019 at 9:35 pm

Ahh those Shetland ponies! I’ve been wanting to visit Shetland for yearssss, and I’m dying to join Up Helly Aa as well. This post is only making me want to go there like, right this second!

October 30, 2019 at 5:17 am

I’ve wanted to visit Shetland for years to visit the places I discovered in my family history journey. It is so beautiful and your post has added even more interest with all the activities.

Kimberly says

November 12, 2019 at 10:16 am

The pony Duster looks adorable. I didn’t even realise that ponies were a thing but seeing your photos made me search them on the internet some more and they are just awesome, lol. Nice post!

December 6, 2019 at 5:07 am

Ohhhhh that burger and chips at Frankies looks so good! That is definitely getting added to the list for our upcoming trip to the Shetlands next year! It’s a pity we won’t be there at the right time for Up Helly Aa 🙁 But alas, it will be an amazing trip nevertheless, of that I am convinced! Thanks for putting together this article, it’s been a lot of help for our plans.

Billy Johnson says

August 13, 2020 at 7:10 am

Unfortunately, Shetland isn’t going to be the idyllic, quiet, unspoilt landscape for much longer. Construction is about to happen on the largest onshore windfarm in the UK, totally destroying our rare wildlife and views and health. It has been railroaded through by the Scottish government and an energy giant, the latter only interested in their balance sheets, as had been proven so far. The 103 huge turbines have a life expectancy of 25 years, but because of the nature of manufacture of these turbines, they hardly ever pay back the carbon debt accrued from mining rare earth metals right through to the blades, which are non degradable and just fill landfill sites. It’s also being built on over 3000 year old peatlands which are a very important carbon sink, and even nearly disturbing this peat pretty much makes a mockery of the carbon pay back comments from the pro Windfarm lobby. We really need everybody’s help to stop this behemoth, although I fear is too late.

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The best time to visit Costa Rica: a season-by-season guide to planning the perfect Costa Rican vacation

by Go Ahead Tours team

Whether you’re looking to hike a volcano, surf some perfect waves, or simply enjoy time in nature, a Costa Rica tour is sure to deliver unforgettable travel experiences. But, if you’re wondering when the best time to visit Costa Rica is, you’ll need to first decide what you want to do when you get there. While a trip to Costa Rica promises lush landscapes year-round, some of the bucket list activities this stunning destination is known for are better suited for different seasons. For instance, if you want to spend a lot of time on the beach, you’ll want to go during the dry season; whereas wildlife enthusiasts can schedule their visits based on the animals they’re looking to spot.

To help guide your travel planning, here’s our month-by-month guide to the best time to visit Costa Rica. Just know, regardless of what you want to do or when you schedule your once-in-a-lifetime Costa Rica tour , any time is truly the perfect time for pura vida.

What is the weather in Costa Rica like in each season?

If you want to plan your trip to Costa Rica based on temperature and weather, it’s important to note that the country’s various geographic regions inform climate very specifically. So, the best time of the year to visit Costa Rica could depend on which area your trip will focus on. Yes, Costa Rica is not very big—about the size of West Virginia—but the natural diversity and its Central American location, sandwiched between two different bodies of water, help create numerous unique regions, each with their own distinct climates. Depending on who you ask regarding how many regions Costa Rica has, you may get many different answers. But, to simplify it with a general breakdown, you can usually split the country into three areas: the Pacific coast, the Caribbean coast, and the central highlands.

The Pacific coast splits the year between a rainy season and a dry season, whereas the lush Caribbean coast has pretty uniform year-round weather. Yes, it may rain less in February than it does in June, but in the eastern half of Costa Rica, you can expect rain at any point of the year. The highlands, especially the area around Arenal Volcano, are similarly humid and wet. The center of the country, however, experiences some of the driest and coolest conditions from December to April. If you prefer less precipitation, that dry stretch of the calendar could be the best time of the year to travel to Costa Rica.

The dry season

Is the best time to plan a beach vacation and outdoor adventures in costa rica.

For many travelers, the dry season, which stretches from December to April, is the best time of year to go to Costa Rica, especially if spending a lot of time by the beach is high on your list of priorities. Even if your travel interests are much broader than that, though, the dry season allows more ease of travel as you bounce from coasts to jungles to cloud forests to farmlands. So, whether you’re on our Costa Rica for Solo Travelers: Volcanoes, Jungles & Beaches tour or our classic Costa Rica: Rainforests, Volcanoes & Wildlife tour , an immersive trip to Costa Rica during the dry season will feature a lot of outdoor activities that showcase just how naturally magnificent this country is. But because this is typically when weather in Costa Rica is most consistent, you’ll also find that these months are when a lot of cultural festivals and events are held.

It’s important to note, however, that the dry season is Costa Rica’s busiest tourism period, especially in January and February, when the sunny, hot conditions make a Costa Rica tour particularly attractive for those who want to escape chilly winter climates. If you’d prefer to visit during this stretch but want to avoid massive crowds, you may find that April could be the best month to visit Costa Rica instead.

Months to experience dry season in Costa Rica

December, January, February, March & April

December in Costa Rica is all about beachy holiday vibes. In addition to all the beautiful nature and wildlife you’ll come across on our Costa Rica tours , what makes December a special time to visit is the heartwarming holiday spirit you’ll find all over the country. There are so many wonderful Christmastime traditions there, and if you’re on our immersive Grand Tour of Costa Rica: From the Caribbean to the Pacific , you’ll have the opportunity to compare how different regions celebrate the holidays. There are plenty of shared customs, too. Keep your eyes peeled for elaborately decorated Christmas trees, as well as ornate nativity scenes—both are widely displayed in Costa Rica.

And because December is the beginning of peak dry season here, you’re very likely to get nonstop clear, blue skies everywhere you visit, from the beaches to the highlands. This means that you’ll get to celebrate a holiday season with boating tours of Tortuguero National Park, sloth-spotting hikes in Arenal National Park, and moments spent savoring the white-sand beaches of Manuel Antonio National Park. How special is that? In short, if you love to mix holiday vibes with tropical adventures, December is the best time to travel to Costa Rica.

Costa Rica in January is great for beach days, wildlife, and festivals. January marks one of the busiest tourism months of the year for Costa Rica, so you’ll want to be prepared for denser crowds all over the country. Yes, a lot of it has to do with the weather: For a country where you want to spend a lot of time outdoors, the milder, dryer conditions January brings make a trip to Costa Rica all the more spectacular, especially if you want to enjoy its many beaches. January also hosts one of Costa Rica’s most highly anticipated events: Palmares Fiestas—a two-week event full of parties, parades, and even a soccer tournament.

Wildlife spotting is incredible in January, too. Seeing unique creatures of land, sea, and sky is one of the most thrilling parts of a trip to Costa Rica. If whale watching is on your bucket list, January could be one of the best times to visit Costa Rica, as humpback whales are migrating on the Pacific coast. If you decide to take the extension to Manuel Antonio National Park on our Costa Rica: Rainforests, Volcanoes & Wildlife tour , don’t miss the catamaran excursion. Who knows, you may spot a whale or two!

Traveling to Costa Rica in February? Don’t skip a volcano hike. You’re now in the heart of peak season in Costa Rica. Plenty of sunshine means the beaches on both the Caribbean and Pacific coasts will be busy. February is also a great time for fishing. Many fishing competitions are held in the country this month. For water-based adventures alone, February could be the best time to visit Costa Rica.

Another one of our favorite things to do on a Costa Rica tour in February is explore the country’s various volcanoes. In the Arenal area, you’ll find one of the world’s most famous volcanoes: Arenal Volcano. Our Costa Rica guides often highlight the Arenal Volcano National Park for its unmatched natural treasures, but our tours also visit Irazú Volcano National Park, home to Costa Rica’s tallest volcano. When the weather is at its peak in February, these regions are primed for discovery. On our A Week in Costa Rica: San José, Arenal & Guanacaste tour and our Grand Tour of Costa Rica: From the Caribbean to the Pacific , you’ll get to marvel at both volcanoes and enjoy opportunities to hike on and around them, too. Arenal may be the most famous, but Irazú is stunning, too—especially from a viewing platform where you can see its crater and the brilliantly colored lagoon at its center.

Celebrate Costa Rica in March with a fabulous beach vacation. We know that there are plenty of options for Spring Break getaways, but what makes a Costa Rica tour an exciting choice for March is the glorious, hot weather. This month is usually the driest of the year in Costa Rica, which makes exploring beaches and jungles alike even more spectacular. So, March could be the best time of the year to go to Costa Rica if you want to spend a lot of time in or by the water.

Water-based excursions play a particularly big role on our Costa Rica for Solo Travelers: Volcanoes, Jungles & Beaches tour . In addition to sunbathing on the powdery sands of Guanacaste’s most stunning beaches (we have a fantastic sailing and snorkeling excursion there, too), this nine-day itinerary also includes a Tárcoles River cruise where you may see crocodiles lurking. The visit to the Pacific coast will take you to Palo Seco as well, where you can help with a mangrove reforestation project. Playa Palo Seco has one of the largest mangrove ecosystems in Central America, and this reforestation effort is a critical part of Costa Rica’s vast sustainability initiative.

April in Costa Rica is perfect for a visit to a cloud forest. You may already know about Costa Rica’s beaches and jungles, but did you know that the country is also home to beautiful cloud forests? These tropical areas characterized by low-level clouds create a uniquely mysterious, yet picturesque, energy. Monteverde Cloud Forest is an iconic Costa Rican destination that you simply can’t miss.

Located in the country’s northwest, Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve is one of the most beloved spots visited on our Costa Rica tours , especially for nature lovers. Did you know that Monteverde is home to one of the most diverse ecosystems in the world, including 3,000 plant species? And on our Highlights of Central America: Costa Rica & Panama tour , you’ll hike around Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve, where birders will get their fill of toucans, hummingbirds, quetzals, and more. Then, follow that up by participating in a reforestation project at Heliconia Ranch, where you’ll get to plant native trees.

Weather in Costa Rica in December, January, February, March & April

Average temperatures range between 75 F and 94 F.

The wet season

Is perfect for wildlife viewing and surfing.

While most of the year is technically part of Costa Rica’s wet (or green) season, different months in different regions will mean different things in terms of the amount of precipitation you can expect during a Costa Rica tour . May, June, and November may look a lot like the dry season with some rain thrown in. And while the Caribbean coast may expect heavier rainfall from July until October, some parts of the Pacific coast, which gets the lowest amount of rain year-round, could still be a great choice for a crowd-free vacation during the same spell. And for surfers, Costa Rica from August to November is considered the prime time for chasing skyscraping ocean swells.

So, when is the best time to visit Costa Rica? Well, if you want fewer crowds, more favorable off-season rates, and wilder seas for exciting water activities, then you may want to take a Costa Rica tour during the wet season. Whether it’s on our A Week in Costa Rica: San José, Arenal & Guanacaste tour or our Costa Rica: Rainforests, Volcanoes & Wildlife tour , the infectious pura vida lifestyle will be there whenever you decide to take a trip.

Months to experience the wet, or green, season in Costa Rica

May, June, July, August, September, October & November

Costa Rica in May has fewer crowds. For a lot of travelers, May is one of the best times to visit Costa Rica , because it’s not peak travel season anymore but it’s not really that rainy yet. This means the country’s most famous landmarks won’t be that crowded, but you can still expect some good weather. We love the sound of that!

May then becomes a great month for our Grand Tour of Costa Rica: From the Caribbean to the Pacific , because you get a comprehensive two-week itinerary of classic Costa Rica , touching on its greatest hits from coast to coast. With fewer crowds to deal with, bucket list activities—wildlife spotting at Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge, soaking in the hot springs by the Arenal Volcano, and relaxing on Guanacaste’s most sought-after beaches—become a lot more enjoyable.

In June, Costa Rica is beautifully lush. Costa Rica ranks very highly as one of our favorite places to visit in June thanks to the tourism slowdown that allows us easier access to more of the country’s blooming landscapes. Costa Rica tours this time of year will see more rainfall, which helps make a very green destination even greener. Yes, June is the first month of the wet season, which means you might experience daily rainfall, but you can still expect lots of sunny days (interspersed with refreshing showers, mostly in the afternoons). Your expert Tour Director will adjust your itinerary to accommodate this shift in conditions, too, so that you get the most out of your visit each day.

Our A Week in Costa Rica: San José, Arenal & Guanacaste tour is great in June because the San Jose region usually experiences the least amount of rainfall compared to the rest of the country. It’s also an ideal month to see Guanacaste, typically quite dry, lush with foliage. This time of year is one of the best times to visit Costa Rica for wildlife viewing, too, especially in the national parks. With fewer crowds on trails, it’ll be easier to spot monkeys and sloths. On our Grand Tour of Costa Rica: From the Caribbean to the Pacific , make sure you keep your eyes peeled for quetzals in Monteverde; June is one of the final months of their breeding season.

Watch turtles lay their eggs in Costa Rica in July. So there may be fewer quetzal sightings in July, but if you’re interested in other wildlife species, July is one of the best times to travel to Costa Rica . The country is teeming with magical animals regardless of when you time your trip, but July is a particularly special time of year to spot sea turtles along the Caribbean coast. Tortuguero National Park is one of the nesting spots for green sea turtles—about 30,000 females are here per season. And on our Costa Rica: Rainforests, Volcanoes & Wildlife tour , you can book an excursion to watch them lay their eggs. It’s a special moment you’ll never forget.

August brings more impressive wildlife spotting in Costa Rica. The wet season not only transforms Costa Rica into a verdant wonderland, but August specifically is a fantastic month for wildlife watching. Birders will have plenty to look forward to, and land animals are plentiful throughout this time of year. But August is notable for whales, especially along the Pacific coast, where humpbacks are breeding and feeding.

Our Grand Tour of Costa Rica: From the Caribbean to the Pacific could be a great option in August when you can complement jaw-dropping wildlife sightings with a variety of local activities, like a tour and tasting at a coffee plantation, an Afro-Caribbean drum and salsa lesson, and hikes toward various waterfalls. A Costa Rica tour wouldn’t be complete without visiting a couple of thundering waterfalls, and they’re more impressive during the rainy season when they’re bursting with water.

Come to Costa Rica in September for the best deals. While September is known for bringing some of the heaviest rainfall of the year, it’s still a great time to plan a Costa Rica tour , especially if you’re looking for great deals and almost zero crowds. It’s important to note, however, that visiting more remote pockets of the country could be more difficult in September (and October) because of flooding.

But if you don’t mind getting a little wet, a September trip reveals an incredibly lush Costa Rica—the magical rainforest will look almost otherworldly given how dense and green it becomes. This is the Costa Rica that some travelers dream about: thick, jungle landscapes full of quirky wildlife. And the fact that you can have it practically to yourself, and at lower prices, is a bonus. So, if you’re looking for a great deal on a tropical paradise, September could be the best time to go to Costa Rica.

If you’re a surfer, strong ocean swells make October the best time to visit Costa Rica. Costa Rica is a dream destination for surfing. If you’re a beginner, you’ll want to visit during the dry season, when waters are calmer. But more experienced athletes who are keen on conquering skyscraping waves should plan for a Costa Rica tour in October.

Our Costa Rica itineraries—such as our A Week in Costa Rica: San José, Arenal & Guanacaste tour and our Costa Rica for Solo Travelers: Volcanoes, Jungles & Beaches tour —have plenty of free time (many with entire days at your disposal), so you can head out to sea with a surfboard. These flexible schedules will allow you to combine epic sightseeing days with equally unforgettable moments getting acquainted with Costa Rica’s various surf breaks.

In November, rain will start to taper off in Costa Rica. Similar to May, November can be the perfect month to visit Costa Rica for many travelers. While it’s technically still part of the green season, it’s more realistic to think of November as a transitional shoulder-season month. This means you can expect to get a mix of both wet and dry conditions. There will be less rain, especially toward the end of the month, but you still get the perk of traveling amidst fewer fellow visitors.

Whether you decide to go on our epic Grand Tour of Costa Rica: From the Caribbean to the Pacific or to make new travel friends on our Costa Rica for Solo Travelers: Volcanoes, Jungles & Beaches tour , you can get a lot out of Costa Rica in November, even if the weather can be unpredictable. Surfing conditions are still fierce and there will be plenty of wildlife moments to savor. Plus, with the decrease in rainfall, you can also enjoy more outdoor adventures, including jungle hikes and visits to various agricultural projects, like the organic pineapple plantation in the Sarapiqui region. If you can tolerate unpredictable weather, November can be one of the best times to visit Costa Rica.

Weather in Costa Rica in May, June, July, August, September, October & November

Average temperatures range between 77 F and 93 F.

Have you chosen the best time to visit Costa Rica to experience it just the way you want? Shop our Costa Rica tours and start planning an unforgettable trip now.

About the author

Go Ahead Tours team

We’re a team of passionate travel experts, dedicated to helping people explore the world. From inspiring stories to tips for an amazing trip, the topics we cover are all about getting you out there and making discoveries.

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Costa Rica: Rainforests, Volcanoes & Wildlife

9 days | 12 days with Manuel Antonio & San José extension

4.6 out of 5 stars

A Week in Costa Rica: San José, Arenal & Guanacaste

8 days | 10 days with Guanacaste Coast extension

4.4 out of 5 stars

Grand Tour of Costa Rica: From the Caribbean to the Pacific

13 days | 15 days with Rincón de la Vieja extension

Costa Rica for Solo Travelers: Volcanoes, Jungles & Beaches

9 days | 12 days with Volcano Region & San José Region extension

Highlights of Central America: Costa Rica & Panama

12 days | 15 days with Cartagena extension

4.1 out of 5 stars