bmw e36 trip computer

The On-Board Computer (OBC).

Undocumented features., the following is for newer obc found in e36 cars for example:, fixing the backlight:, what to do if you get pppp displayed on the obc.

Now Proudly an EONON Audio Retailer

Upgrade Instructions for BMW E36 3-Series 18-Button On Board Computer

Bmw e36 obc upgrade instructions.

Below is the guide for installing the upgrade Siemens 18-Button On Board Computer (OBC) into a 1992-1999 BMW 3-Series and M3. 

Parts Required:

• (1) E36 18-Button On Board Computer
• (2) Wiring Harness Pigtails (Black and White)
• (1) Spindle of 22 gauge wire
• Quick Disconnectors or wire crimps.

Instruction Guide Links

Jeremy Reyna's E36 Upgrade Tutorial

Pelican Parts Guide

Parts available here on eBay

Installation Process

I successfully swapped out my 11-Button OBC for an 18-Button in my 98 M3, and it wasn't that hard. All functions work, including the hidden ones. Anyone with moderate mechanical skills can complete this conversion; I give it a two-1/2 wrench out of five difficulty level. Much quicker and a little easier than installing VDO gauges. I'm an idiot, so it couldn't have been that tough. Special recognition should be given to "BiMmEr JoN" who made the original OBC Conversion post on Bimmerforums ( http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...c%2A+conversion ) and whose collaboration made my retrofit possible.

The conversion isn't specifically targeted to only early E36s. In fact, some of the OBC functions won't work on pre-94 E36s because they don't have the ZKE type security system. The 18 button OBC was an option for all year E36s that most, but not all, buyers requested. The conversion is targeted for BMWs that didn't get the option.

I wanted a full OBC when I was shopping for an M3. When I finally found a used one that wasn't thrashed, I was very disappointed that it only had the enhanced clock OBC. What can I say? I love gadgets. When I started researching the possibility of converting a full OBC into my Bimmer, everything I read said either: "a swap is not possible, buy a car with it installed", or, "you can retrofit an 18-Button OBC, but it will require you to tear your interior apart, install sensors, and run long runs of wire...it is not worth the hassle". Wrong! Wrong! Wrong! This is how I did it.

First, I have to note a few disclaimers:

1. This procedure worked on my 98 M3. There is no guarantee that it will work on your BMW. The Bentley manual notes two E36 OBC diagrams: 1992-1997 (non-318ti) and 1998 (non-318ti). The 1992-1997 diagram is slightly different. Also, the ZKE IV wasn't available until 1994. However, you should be able to modify these instructions to make it work on your car.

2. In the interest of brevity, I am assuming that you know, or will be able to get instructions to remove:

• OPTIONAL: Airbag and Steering Wheel (you can really hurt yourself if you don't follow safety procedures)  YOU DO NOT HAVE TO WIRE TO TURN SIGNAL STALK!
• Instrument Cluster

I am also assuming that you will be able to figure out some sub-procedures that I will not mention, but should be obvious.

As "BiMmEr JoN" noted in his post, you will need a working 18-Button OBC and the white X1071 connector that the 11-Button OBC doesn't have. Also get an OBC controller turn signal stalk if you want to control the OBC with it. I ordered my OBC and connectors from an import salvage yard over the phone. I strongly recommend that you use a Bentley Manual. Even though some of the electrical diagrams are not perfect, it will pay for itself many times over in time saved.

You must be familiar with the naming conventions of the connectors used in this retrofit. The new OBC uses two connectors. The black connector is called X1070. That is the connector that the old 11-Button OBC used. The white connector is called X1071. That is the new connector that you should have got with your new OBC. The Instrument Cluster has two connectors. The white connector is called X16 and the blue connector is called X17.

These are the steps for retrofitting the OBC. It does not necessarily have to be in this order. Refer to the attached diagram labeled "18-Button OBC Retrofit Wiring Diagram".

• Remove old OBC, Steering Wheel, Instrument Cluster, and dashboard.
• Remove the two connectors from the back of the Instrument Cluster.
• Tap a fresh wire into the white/gray (WHT/GRY) wire on Pin 10 of connector X17 and run it to the white/gray wire coming out of Pin 9 of X1071.
• Tap a fresh wire into the white/violet (WHT/VIO) wire on X16 and run it to the white/violet wire coming out of Pin 5 of X1071. Tap a fresh wire into the white/yellow (WHT/YEL) wire on X16 and run it to the white/yellow wire coming out of Pin 7 of X1071.
• Remove the X16connector cover to reveal the metal pins of the connector. You must figure out a way to install a new pin into the vacant Pin 21 slot. I went to the local BMW dealership and browsed their connector bins until I found a male pin connector that I could modify to work. I soldiered a fresh wire onto the pin and set the pin into the vacant Pin 21 slot in the X16 connector. I then ran this new wire to the white/black wire coming out of Pin 6 of X1071.
• Find the ZKE IV Control Module behind the glove box. The Bentley manual will help you find it. Fabricate a pin to fit into the vacant Pin 15 of thisconnector. I fabricated this pin from a blue Butt Connector. Run a fresh wire from Pin 15 of the ZKE IV to the black/green (BLK/GRN) wire coming out of Pin 1 of X1071.
• Install the turn signal stalk. Tap into the brown/red wire of the new turn signal stalk and run it to the brown/red wire of Pin 4 of X1071.
• Tap into the brown (BRN) wire coming from Pin 17 of connector X1070 and run it to the brown wire of Pin 13 of X1071.
• Tap into the red/yellow (RED/YEL) wire of Pin 18 of X1070 and run it to the red/yellow wire of Pin 8 of X1071.
• Put everything back together. Connect the two connectors into your new OBC. Keep your fingers crossed, everything should work.

What do all the new wires do? I'm not certain, but based upon my review of the Bentley diagrams, my guesses are indicted below. Perhaps it may help trouble-shoot a retrofit that isn't cooperating. But like I said, I'm an idiot, so trust your judgement and a good wiring diagram.

• White/Gray wire: connects OBC to speedometer sensor
• White/Violet and White/Yellow wires: connects OBC to data link system. This system integrates most of the electronic boxes such as ABS, Cruise Control, EWS, ZKE, DME, OBC, etc.
• White/black wire: connects OBC to gas gauge
• Black/Green: connects OBC to AWS anti-theft device
• Brown/Red: grounds OBC for turn signal stalk activated menu display
• Brown: Ground
• Red/Yellow: Power

Good luck! And don't listen to people who say it can't be done. They don't know what they're talking about.

Quoted from Pelican Parts.com

On-Board Computer

Component/connector location views:.

BMW E36 Blog

Bmw on board computer (obc) secrets.

Hi Friends,

I’m really excited about this new article and I think you will be excited too. I have found an article which describes the secrets hidden inside BMW E36 on board computer (OBC). It’s really fascinating me that the Germans in 1993 or so were having such things. All I can say is WOW!. OK, enough talking about the Germans, so Mr. OBC here turned to be not as simple as I really thought at first. It has many information that is hidden and can be displayed with tiny effort. I’m almost sure that you’re going to love the article below. I just wanted to say that you should make sure to try the Instrument Panel Tests. It’s really cool to watch your car checking itself.

Note: I did try almost all what’s written in here and it’s working great.

Disclaimer : Use this info at your own risk!! I’m not responsible for your mistakes man! 😀

  There are many interesting functions available on the E36 OBC (On Board Computer) that are not documented in the owner’s manual, including changing the language of the display. The procedures described here work on my ’97 328iC, which has the upgraded OBC – they may work on other models of similar vintage.   Contents: Programming the Display Order Accessing Data Unlock the Display Test Codes Setting the Country Code Instrument Panel Tests   Programming the OBC to Display Contents in a Desired Order:   When you repeatedly press in on the turn signal stalk, the OBC display cycles through the various information types that it has in memory. The default sequence is: CONSUM1, CONSUM2, EXT. TEMP, SPEED, LIMIT, DIST and TIMER. If you want to change the display order, use the following procedure: Press-in and hold the turn stalk for about 5 seconds. The OBC display will change to Prog 1 . Press the button corresponding to the first function you would like to have displayed in the sequence. For example, if you would like the outside temperature to be displayed first, press the TEMP button. The display will then change to Prog2 . Continue pressing the OBC buttons in the order you want, up through nine entries. You don’t have to enter all nine – if you would like the display to cycle only between TEMP and RANGE, simply enter those two items as Prog 1 and Prog 2. When finished, press the SET/RES button to store the sequence in memory. To revert to the default order, simply press SET/RES as soon as Prog 1 is displayed.     Accessing Data in the OBC: The OBC contains a lot of data, and displays the data in a manner determined by the country code that is stored in it. The technique to access this data is as follows: Press the 1000 and 10 keys simultaneously. You should see Test-Nr. : appear in the display. The table below lists the available test codes that are available. Enter a test code number, using the number keys, followed by the SET/RES key. However, to access codes other than 1, 10, 14, 19, and 21, you have to first unlock the OBC , using the procedure described below. Read the results. For test numbers 10 and 11, enter a new value (if desired) and press SET/RES . Return to the normal display functions by pressing CHECK or any other key.   Unlock the Display: Most of the test sequences require you to first unlock the display before. Enter test code 19 using the above procedure. The display should read LOCK:ON . Then enter an unlocking code consisting of the sum of the current month plus date (for example, if today is July 11, enter 18). Then press SET/RES , and the OBC is now unlocked.   Test Codes : Following is a listing of the available tests, along with with my notes as to what I think each test means. Note that the display uses European conventions for decimals (i.e., the number 61,7 is 61.7f or us Americans). You will see that I don’t have good explanations for several of these test codes   Test Code No. Display Notes Display Must Be Unlocked First? 01 All LED display elements are lit Verify that the display is working properly No 02 VBR: n,n l/100km n,n = instantaneous fuel usage in liters/100 km Yes 03 VBR : n,n l/h n,n = instantaneous fuel usage in liters per hour Yes 04 RW-VBR: n,n l/100 n,n = average fuel usage in liter/100 km. Yes 05 RW : nnn km nnn = range in km Yes 06 — Not used Yes 07 TMTL : nn,n l nn,n = fuel remaining (in liters) Yes 08 V: n km/h n = instantaneous speed in km/h Yes 09 UB: nn,nn V nn,nn = system voltage (should be around 13,80) Yes 10 LAND: n xxx * Country code — for US drivers should be set to 2 USA — see description below No 11 EINHEIT n: xx * ?? There are two EINHEIT displays: the values for xx in EINHEIT 1 can range between B0 and BF, and for EINHEIT 2 range between 0F and FF (mine is set to B3 and FF, respectively). Press the 1000 or 100 key to switch between EINHEIT 1 and EINHEIT 2 . Yes 12 VANK nn km/h nn = average speed Yes 13 ANK : nn:nn nn:nn = ETA (will display –:– if the OBC’s distance function is not in use) Yes 14 ROM : dd.mm.yy dd.mm.yyyy = Software version date. Mine is 25.06.1991 No 15 DIAG: nn nn nnn xx Diagnosis code? Mine is 01 05 255 FA Yes 16 PORT : nn nnnnnnnn Port codes? Press 1000 or 100 key to cycle port numbers. For example, PORT 01 is 10101000 Yes 17 PROM : nn nn ?? Mine reads 00 12 Yes 18 HORN: xxxx DTON or DTOFF? (Single tone horn versus dual tone) Yes 19 LOCK: xx xx = ON or OFF. See description above for method. No 20 KVBR: nnnn nnnn = Fuel rate calibration factor. Mine is set to 1000 Yes 21 RESET? Reset all defect codes? Also erases all stored values in the OBC (i.e, fuel consumption, avg. speed, timer, etc) and clock. Yes   Note: #20 The factor is used to correct the OBC Avg Fuel Consumption figure to reality. If your OBC is off a bit, fill it UP totally and then run the tank down and refill. Then calculate your Actual MPG. Now enter test #20 get the old Correction Factor. NEW CF = OLD CF *(Actual MPG/OBC MPG) Setting the Country Code: If your OBC suddenly starts displaying every thing in German, and you would like to put it back to English, use test sequence number 10. Once you’re into test number 10, press the 1 key several times, and you’ll see the display cycle through various country options. For example, 0 is for Germany (the display reads LAND:0 D * – I assume D stands for Deutschland). As you cycle through the options, you’ll see choices for the Great Britain, USA, France, Canada, etc. Once the display is on the country you want, press the SET/RES key to store your choice into memory — for US drivers the display should be set to LAND: 2 USA * . Then press the CHECK key, and the display will reflect the units of the country you’ve chosen. Instrument Panel Tests: With the engine off, press and hold the trip mileage reset button, and then turn the key to accessory position 2 (OBC and radio come on). The LED display on the instrument panel (which normally is the odometer) will change to tESt01 and then will begin to cycle through several displays. Release the button. The display will continue to cycle through several displays. Here’s the data my car displays:   Display Display Sequence Notes 363758 1 BMW Part No. 0000 2 Code No.? 7504 3 K No.? nnnnn 4 Last 5 digits of VIN 230 5 Software Version 62 6 Revision Index Hardware No.   Finally, all LED elements will light, and all gauges will cycle once. You can press the mileage-reset button again to access more tests. Tests 2 through4 are always unlocked and hence available. Tests 5 through 14 are normally locked — to access these you must first unlock the display-using test 15.Otherwise the display simply shows: ——–.       Display Test Sequence Notes n 02 Engine type: n = 2 for 4-cylinder engine, 3 for 6-cylinder, and 4 for 8-cylinder nnnnnn 03 km traveled since last oil service reset. nnnn 04 Age of car, in days For tests 5 – 13, display must first be unlocked using sequence 15. n 05 SI evaluation factor: n = 0 or 1 (over-rev), t= 0 or 1 (engine temp over heat)   06 Fuel level and coolant temp. Displays hexadec codes relating to gauge position: Fuel Gauge Hex value: A (empty) —-> 0d End of Reserve —-> 37 B ——> 54 C ——–> 90 D ———> c4 E (full) ——> f0 Engine Temp Hex value: A ——-> ce B ——–> 6d C ——–> 5c D (center) ——> 4f-23 E ——–> 1e F ———> 18   07 Current engine RPM   08 Current road speed in km/h nnnnnn A 09 Distance – used to compare odometer mileage in the EPROM vs. the coding plug. If the two values don’t agree (for example, if one of these elements was replaced), the manipulation dot will illuminate. This function will synchronize the two readings to the highest value. Press and hold the reset button for 4 seconds, and the lower mileage reading will be overwritten by the higher, and the manipulation dot is cancelled. bbbbbb 10 Status bits – input signal (0=low or 1= high): 1: seat belt: fastened =0 2: ignition lock: key inserted=0 3: door contact: door open = 0 4: clock button pressed = 0 5: SI reset = 0 6: EGS transmission failure = 0 bbbbbb 11 Status bits – output signals: 1: Gond output 2: Brake warning lamp 3: Low fuel warning lamp 4: EGA lamp 5: Seat belt lamp 6: manipulation dot —— 12 Not used nn 13 Country code of cluster (USA = 02)   14 Software reset L On/Off 15 Lock Status (on or off). Press and hold the reset button for about five seconds until the display reads "OFF". Now you can access test sequences 5 through 14.  

Wait for more from . . . BMW E36 Blog

Best regards,

Tony Sticks.

Related Posts:-

• Unlock the check button functionality for BMW E36 On Board Computer (OBC)
• BMW E36 M3 Review and Info
• Fixing your BMW OBC (On Board Computer) lights . . . DIY!
• BMW E36 on board computer . . . learn how to use it
• BMW E36 Sunroof Problem

Want to receive exciting tips & information about BMW E36 cars? Enter your Email:-

This entry was posted on Saturday, March 31st, 2007 at 12:40 pm and is filed under Interior , Technical Info , Tips & Tricks . You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.

Having A Problem With Your Bimmer?

There are currently 134 responses to “bmw on board computer (obc) secrets”.

Why not let us know what you think by adding your own comment! Your opinion is as valid as anyone elses, so come on... let us know what you think.

Hey guys, Thanks for the fantastic info. I have a 91 model 320i in Australia, and so far I have tried everything with mixed results. When I try to unlock the obc, I enter the date plus the month, but it still says lock:on. However, I can access all of the 18 button obc functions. A few questions – 1. Can the fuel consumption features be changed so that consum1 shows average fuel consumption while consum2 shows the instantaneous consumption? 2, can the speed button be changed to show the instantaneous speed instead of the average speed? 3. I can not access the features through the trip meter, it runs through the 6 numbers and then the gauges cycle, but holding or pressing the trip meter button again achieves nothing (not even the unlocked features) – Any ideas why??? 4. On my OBC, I have a button labelled “code”, when i press it displays 0000. I have no idea what this means, or does… any ideas??? Thanks very much, any help will be greatly appreciated! Alex

posted on September 6th, 2008 at 3:57 pm

Tony, any idea how to remove the interior light?? Mine has a horrible rattle, annoying at highway speeds as it hums from the vibrations, and I have just tried to pull it out so I can sort it out, but looked and couldnt find an obvious way to remove it out of the headlining. I didnt want to rip it out and be left with a ugly mess a foot from my eyes! Once again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Alex

posted on September 7th, 2008 at 6:45 am

@Alex: Hi Alex, About changing the fuel consumption and speed buttons display, I’m not aware of any method to do that. About your trip meter question, I have the exact problem. I guess that some cars do not have this feature, only test 01. Now for the Code button, it’s a security feature that should prevent anyone from turning your engine on unless the security code is entered. Please refer to my post BMW E36 on board computer . . . learn how to use it for instructions on how to use this feature.

posted on September 7th, 2008 at 11:58 am

@Alex: I recall that I have used a flat screwdriver to remove it. It should popup easily with some effort. But try to do it carefully.

posted on September 7th, 2008 at 12:35 pm

Thanks very much Tony, I thought being such an early model it may not have the other odometer functions. Ive checked out the link you gave me regarding the code button, thanks, and Ill give the interior light another look at tomorrow. Cheers, Alex

posted on September 7th, 2008 at 12:58 pm

@Alex: Good luck Alex.

posted on September 9th, 2008 at 10:25 am

Dear Tony, I have e36 m43, and i would like to put an on board computer in this car. cause in my car have analog clock only (poor me rite). on ebay i found multi information display 18 button for e36. Can i have this MID on my car. Just plug and play or i must face some kind hot wiring stuff… can i do it by myself on these project???? thanks tony

posted on October 28th, 2008 at 4:24 am

@Nurman: Well, to be honest, I didn’t try the upgrade myself. But I recall that I’ve seen some DIYs to upgrade from the 7-button to the 18-button OBC. I think it’s a little bit complicated if you don’t have electrical knowledge about cars.

posted on October 28th, 2008 at 11:03 am

ahoj potreboval by som zistit preco mi pocitac ukazuje na chek control INAKTIV? NEVIETE MI PORADIT?

posted on March 4th, 2009 at 2:03 pm

My OBC is currently displaying Prog.1 nothing else seem to be happening except when i turn on the key, it displyas temp for 3sec then revert back to Prog. 1 what do you suggest i do?

posted on March 19th, 2009 at 2:21 pm

Hi Tony, I am trying to replace my OBC as the ‘100’ button is broken. I saw a used one online for about $50. Will a used one work just fine? What do I need to watch out for? Any suggestions? I am assuming all I need to do is remove, unplug wires and replug wires into new OBC. Please advise. thanks

posted on April 8th, 2009 at 8:11 pm

anyone know who has a ecm for a 92 bmw 325i (e36) #0 261 200 402. and also how much is 30 Euros in US dollars too thanks.

posted on April 21st, 2009 at 11:10 pm

Ebay for the ECM And 30 Euros is about $40 US. In the future you can search google for “currency converter”, I don’t want to plug any sites, but they are EASY to find.

posted on April 23rd, 2009 at 9:05 pm

thanks a lot for some reason my computer started back working i opened it and replaced the dinan chip with the original it didn’t work right away but it worked the next morning???? that’s funny but thank the lord its working. anyone have a comment on this situation please post. i don’t know what the heck happened. it did this 1 time before.

posted on April 23rd, 2009 at 10:54 pm

hi, jut found your blog and read most of it, i will try the oil reset tomorrow on my 1997 bmw 316i coupe and let you know. one thing that is on the the air bag light. i have read other blog about replacing the sensor, but where on the car would these sensor be great blog by the way

posted on May 13th, 2009 at 12:43 am

The mystery of BMW E36 ON-BOARD-CMPUTER calibration. I don’t know if it’s allowed for a Dane, to ask a question about BMW E36 OBC-V. I have got one of those – it came from a 6 cylinder car, and my car is a 4 cylinder. I can’t make it show the true consumption value for my car, and the BMW Workshop can’t re-code/re-calibrate the OBC to a 4 cylinder car. I have been looking the Secret Menu #11. EINHEIT 1. and 2. What do the values in EINHEIT 1. and 2. indicate? Does it have anything to do with E36 engines – 316i, 318i, 320i, 323i and so on? Does it indicate, that it’s possible manually calibrate the OBC for a certain engine – 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder? For your information I have just got a OBC-V which used to be in a 4 cylinder 318is, when I install this OBC in my car, it’s possible by adjusting Secret Menu # 20 to get the true consumption values for my car. The interesting thing is, that the only difference on the 2 OBC is to be found in Secret Menu # 11. The 6 cylinder OBC have those values: EINHEIT 1: 7D, EINHEIT 2: FF The 4 cylinder OBC have the following values: EINHEIT 1: 75, EINHEIT 2: FF As it is possible change the values in EINHEIT 1 and EINHEIT 2, I have been wondering if somebody have the code for what value refer to what engine or car model. As I see it, then it looks like EINHEIT 1 is the key to the configuration of the OBC – but which values mean what? Hope someone in the Blog can answer my question as I know a thousand or more BMW owners do have the same question. Look forward to hear something. Thanks and regards Niels Bang

posted on September 6th, 2010 at 9:30 pm

I have a question… My DME was fried in my 1998 BMW 740IL so i got a used one from LKQ auto parts. The problem is that it needs to be reprogrammed because of some type of security issue and the mechanics say they’ve never had to do that soooo I have to figure out where to send it to get that done or HOW TO FIX IT… I live in Jax, FL… Anyone know how to reprogram this or where I could send it to get it done?

posted on November 10th, 2010 at 7:45 pm

Hy Neal! I have the same problem with my OBC. I can’t write the right number in TEST 20, so my OBC doesn’t shows the right consumption. Had you find expedient?:) Thank you!

posted on November 29th, 2010 at 9:25 pm

Hi! The EINHEIT1 code not change consumption value or the engine type. The EINHEIT1 value is a bitmask. Where the different bits set the different settings. For example: if first bit value 1 then the OBC clock 12 hours mode, if bit value 0 then the clock 24hour mode… ect bit1 – bit8. I could not fathom the EINHEIT2 but the value is not affected the consumption. Good Luck!

posted on November 29th, 2010 at 11:33 pm

So that was the wrong way:( Thank you!

posted on November 30th, 2010 at 9:54 am

I am also looking for the cause of the error. Me calculated KVBR 511 and the minimum value is 750 in Test#20. So 8l consumption instead of the OBC writes 12l. If I know the reason of the error then I write here. Hi!

posted on November 30th, 2010 at 10:07 am

Today, I popped out my OBC to switch some bulbs around so I could read the clock display. Upon reinstall it read “CODE —-“….and the code button was illuminated. I messed with it for a few minutes but could not get it to clear. I went in to work…. 10 hours later I come out, and my car won’t start. Tried jumping it off, but no difference. Then I remembered the display message. I popped the OBC out and unplugged it, and the engine started right up. Sweet I thought, then I plugged the OBC back in, and it began counting down from 15:00 (minutes)….I didn’t know if the engine would cut out or what….so I unplugged the OBC and drove all the way home without issue. What is “CODE —-” and what is it asking for? Part of the vin?

posted on February 8th, 2011 at 12:16 am

“What is “CODE —-” and what is it asking for? Part of the vin?” This is a anti-theft function which can be normally set directly by the driver. It has nothing to do with the VIN.

posted on February 16th, 2011 at 2:52 pm

Hi. Your local Dealer can recode your OBC with the so called “Modic/DIS” – testing unit. This equippment has every BMW-Dealer. You basically let your car know, thats an OBC is installed and program the right car type into your obc. You can do it as follow: Let your dealer do this steps: Plug in the Modic – Unit into your car’s diagnostic socket. Select your Car-Type from the Menu. Then you can choose some sort of diagnostics and other things. One Menu Item is the so called “Electronic Retrofit” In this Menu you can choose all sort of Retrofitting electronics, such as OBC Unit (BC V), PDC, Power Windows, etc…) The Recoding may take several Minutes. You need to turn the ignition on and off (the testing unit will instruct you.) Done. Greetings Bernhard”

posted on March 17th, 2011 at 9:57 am

How can I reset the clock in a 1992 325i convertible. The clock is in European time and also the temperature is in Celsius not Fahrenheit. The button that you put a pen into no longer works.

posted on April 1st, 2011 at 3:32 am

Hi, I have a 96 325 and today my obc stayed on all day and killed my battery? Its never done that b4 and nothing else was on in my car. Any idea what could of caused this? Also 1 out of every 5 times i start my car my obc flashes that i have tail light failure but everytime my tail lights work. Obvisiouly a sensor? Not a big deal but annoying. Anyone else ever have these problems

posted on May 4th, 2011 at 7:04 am

posted on July 22nd, 2011 at 11:50 am

Above you mention to hit the 1000 and 10 buttons simultaniously to acess data, are them buttons on the radio itself?

posted on September 17th, 2011 at 10:52 pm

Hi I just bought a 1992 325is, and the module/clock was not working so i took it out and of course unplugged it, and cant seem to see why it isnt functining nothing visibly wrong, I have driven the car aprrox 75 miles without it in the car. can it be left out without harm to the vehicle? I was just reading how another guy unplugged his and then the car wouldnt start. Now I dont know what to do because if I reconnect it I wont be able to reset the code because the module isnt readable….Thanks for some help here. Ray

posted on September 23rd, 2011 at 7:18 am

Hi all! Let’s assume I have a 6 cylinders OBC and I want to use it on a 4 cylinders. Can it be recoded/re-calibrated/re-whatever to use it in a 4 cylinders car? Thanks!

posted on December 26th, 2011 at 11:55 am

I have a e32 1992 750il the dash display ie: digital , srs,brake and odmeter, fuel,tach,speedo and temp gauge are blinlinking and spiking like a flasher unit do u know what causes this please help

posted on April 3rd, 2012 at 7:38 am

Very nice post, Thanks for this publishing. Really help me a lot.

posted on February 20th, 2013 at 5:10 pm

i have a 93 325i and all the numbers work on my OBC. ( : anybody have questions?

posted on March 28th, 2013 at 10:16 am

is number 15 (diagnosis code) actually a code for your car telling you wats wrong???

posted on March 28th, 2013 at 10:21 am

A little something about you, the author. Nothing lengthy, just an overview.

Our Sponsors

Latest posts.

• De-Lensing BMW E36 Headlights … DIY
• Replacing BMW E36 Headlights … DIY
• Supercharged BMW E36 M3
• A BMW E36 Fast Drift
• BMW E36 with Corvette Engine – Art
• BMW E36 M3 Story
• BMW E36 Sensors Explained
• BMW E36 Headlights Guide
• BMW E36 Stunts on Two Wheels

Forum Posts

• Cooling System (8)
• Do It Yourself (48)
• Driving Tips (3)
• E36 M3 (31)
• Electrical (43)
• Engine (16)
• Exterior (58)
• Interior (47)
• Models (23)
• Motorsport (8)
• Performance (16)
• Photos (96)
• Super Cars (11)
• Technical Info (97)
• Tips & Tricks (145)
• Uncategorized (281)
• Videos (135)

Explore More

Subscribe...

Our partners.

• Your Ad Here!

Spread the Word

• stumbleupon
• Bluetooth Advertising
• Bluetooth Marketing
• Free Browsers
• Web Browser
• January 2009
• December 2008
• November 2008
• October 2008
• September 2008
• August 2008
• February 2008
• January 2008
• December 2007
• November 2007
• October 2007
• September 2007
• August 2007
• February 2007
• January 2007
• December 2006

© 2007 BMW E36 Blog .

Bluetooth Marketing Solution, Mozonsoft PDF Toolkit , Bluetooth Advertising Solution, Proximity Marketing Solution

• Expert Help!
• Do It Yourself
• Parking Sensor & Car Reverse Backup Radar

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• Bimmerforums UK - General Forum
• General BMW Discussions

E36 Trip computer - Range

• Add to quote

Any one else out there with the trip computer on their E36 or any model tbh would like to know how accurate the 'range' is on other peoples, mines been pretty decent but i havent let it got past 30 miles before filling up again. I just don't know how far to push it, i have a few times ran out in petrol in other car seeing how far i can drive around on the red light (don't ask me why i do it, think for my own amusement) This really isn't a technical question more of a general question so i hope it's in this section!  

Don't quote me but I think we get about 20/25 miles on red or at least I'm sure I do :thumbsup  

I've got 65 on red, although I was pushing it! I've done 40-50 miles a fair few times on red, but I don't and wouldn't make a habit of it :hihi  

I take it you have the full OBC? If so do a search for the hidden menu on here and you'll learn how to find out exactly how much fuel you have left. I have seen them go beyond 0 miles but wouldn't recommend it. I've always had a slight distrust of them! Ian  

maybe I could of got more out of it I don't know I didn't dare lol once I got to 25 miles on red I always head for the petrol station :hihi  

I have taken my computer down to 5 miles left showing.......and there was still petrol in it. I dont think its THAT innacurate. I pretty much trust it. Trust it more than the little stick that moves up and down......... Amos  

Mine seems pretty accurate, you can change the constant that it uses to do its calculations with through the hidden menu if you want to make it more precise and you're good at sums. Can't remember off the top of my head how to do that, I'll have a look later.  

The E36 tank is 70 litres (approx 15½ gals), of which 8 litres (approx 1¾ gals) is the reserve. For the 6-cylinder owners amongst us averaging 25 mpg that equates to just under 44 miles from being in the red to kangarooing to a halt. To change the mpg calculation in the OBC you must unlock it first... · Press 1000 and 10 together - You should see TEST NO · Using the number keys enter 19 and press SET/RES - You should see LOCK ON · Press the DATE key and add the two numbers (day & month) together · Using the number keys enter the number you just calculated and press SET/RES – Your OBC is now unlocked · Using the number keys enter a number below corresponding to the function/test you want and press SET/RES. 1 - OBC Display Test 2 - Current Consumption (distance) 3 - Current Consumption (time) 4 - Average Consumption 5 - Current Range 7 - Average Fuel in Tank 8 - Current Speed 9 - System Voltage 10 - Country/Language 11 - Units 12 - Average Speed 13 - ETA 14 - Date of software 17 - Display Vehicle Specific Data 18 - Alarm Changeover (continuous vs intermittent) 19 - OBC LOCK & UNLOCK 20 - Fuel Consumption factor 21 - Reset OBC - Press SET/RES To set or correct the OBC MPG. · Fill your car up, reset the odometer and the OBC MPG then run the tank down. Fill up again and work out the MPG as follows - No of litres ÷ 4.55 = gals used. Miles travelled ÷ gals used = MPG) · Make a note of the OBC MPG · Unlock the OBC as above · Using the number keys enter 20 and press SET/RES. The factor is usually shown as 1000. · Divide the actual MPG you have calculated by the OBC MPG as follows… OBC MPG = 25.5 Actual MPG = 27.2 25.5 ÷ 27.2 = 0.9375 x 1000 = 937.5 Round this down to 937 and enter it in place of the factor shown then press SET/RES. · It will take a few miles before you car adjusts to the new MPG factor.  

• ?            
• 276.1K members

Top Contributors this Month

• Скидки дня
• Справка и помощь
• Адрес доставки Идет загрузка... Ошибка: повторите попытку ОК
• Продажи
• Список отслеживания Развернуть список отслеживаемых товаров Идет загрузка... Войдите в систему , чтобы просмотреть свои сведения о пользователе
• Краткий обзор
• Недавно просмотренные
• Ставки/предложения
• Список отслеживания
• История покупок
• Купить опять
• Объявления о товарах
• Сохраненные запросы поиска
• Сохраненные продавцы
• Сообщения
• Развернуть корзину Идет загрузка... Произошла ошибка. Чтобы узнать подробнее, посмотрите корзину.

Oops! Looks like we're having trouble connecting to our server.

Refresh your browser window to try again.

Fan blowing cold air on heater mode

• If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Thread: Fan blowing cold air on heater mode

Thread tools.

• Show Printable Version
• View Profile
• View Forum Posts

Guys, My car is blowing cold air from the dash vents on the heater mode, also the fan speed sounds abnormal, it is not that high when I put the fan speed control on high. Any ideas on what could go wrong? I changed a Final stage resistor 3 years back. Is the same part broke again? Any diagnosis to figure out which component it is? Thanks in advance

Last edited by Pawan77; 11-09-2010 at 02:47 PM .

I do not think FSR....unless fan is not working, or is changing speeds erratically...

by Dane Wilson , on Flickr

Cold air when the heater is on means one of four things: - Stuck-open thermostat (very common) - Low coolant/ air pockets in heater core (very common, but should work themselves out with some high-revs driving) - Stuck-closed heater valve (moderately common) - Stuck baffles in the vent ductwork (not common at all) To diagnose the thermostat, drive around town until the engine is fully warmed up and the temp needle is pointing straight up. Then get on the highway and drive at a moderate, consistent speed and low RPMs - e.g. 60MPH in 5th gear. If the needle moves back to the left (colder), then your thermostat is stuck open. You may also get code P0128.

Originally Posted by nathancarter Cold air when the heater is on means one of four things: - Stuck-open thermostat (very common) - Low coolant/ air pockets in heater core (very common, but should work themselves out with some high-revs driving) - Stuck-closed heater valve (moderately common) - Stuck baffles in the vent ductwork (not common at all) To diagnose the thermostat, drive around town until the engine is fully warmed up and the temp needle is pointing straight up. Then get on the highway and drive at a moderate, consistent speed and low RPMs - e.g. 60MPH in 5th gear. If the needle moves back to the left (colder), then your thermostat is stuck open. You may also get code P0128. Nathan, Thanks for the response. Stuck open thermostat should drive the temp needle to red zone right? anyways I will do the diagnosis you mentioned above. Thanks again Also thanks Dane.

No, Nathan stated the opposite. If the t-stat is wide open, then the needle will go to the left when cruising, into the colder region (blue). The t-stat opens wider when the engine temp rises, keeping the temp balanced. If it is wide open, it is constantly letting the maximum amount of cooled coolant as possible. Also, it was not mentioned, and I hate to ask dumb questions, but check the fresh air wheel in between your two center dash vents. Make sure you have it turned to the red dots. AND, in regards to fan speed... when using heat, if the zone setting is on Auto (not direct to face, or direct to feet etc), you generally will not feel the air coming out faster through the dash vents. Try manually selecting the face zone on your control unit and then set the fan speed.

Set the thumb-wheel between the center vents to the red dots (to cure the cold face vents) and replace your microfilter (to cure the low air flow).

Originally Posted by B4SH If anyone knows, it's this guy who knows literally nothing about everything. Originally Posted by fcvapor05 Do you even OT? The mean 401k around here is probably about $6, what with all the shiny cars and $1,000 watches and donations to get other members' Volvos running.

Originally Posted by fermunky No, Nathan stated the opposite. If the t-stat is wide open, then the needle will go to the left when cruising, into the colder region (blue). The t-stat opens wider when the engine temp rises, keeping the temp balanced. If it is wide open, it is constantly letting the maximum amount of cooled coolant as possible. Also, it was not mentioned, and I hate to ask dumb questions, but check the fresh air wheel in between your two center dash vents. Make sure you have it turned to the red dots. AND, in regards to fan speed... when using heat, if the zone setting is on Auto (not direct to face, or direct to feet etc), you generally will not feel the air coming out faster through the dash vents. Try manually selecting the face zone on your control unit and then set the fan speed. I ran the diagnosis and the temp gauge needle is rock solid in the center. I dont think the t-stat is the culprit. I gave a couple hard revs nut still cold air is blowing so donno if air pockets are the reason. DO I NEED TO HOLD DOWN THE GAS PEDAL FOR A WHILE IN THE RED ZONE, I PRESSED IT BRIEFLY INTO THE RED ZONE for this diagnosis. Please suggest? Any codes that it will throw off for the heater valve? Also the center wheel between the vents is set to the 3 red dots and all the fan settings are manual. Anyway to diagnose the heater valve? Thank you once again.

The thought processes were this: The heater draws warmth from the hot coolant. There's a heater core, which is essentially a little radiator, inside the dashboard, in the AC/heater ductwork. The heater core is full of coolant: when the heater is on, a valve opens allowing coolant to circulate through the heater core; when the heater is off and the valve is closed, the coolant isn't actively flowing through the heater core (but it's still full). Whenever the car is running, coolant is flowing through the engine block, driven by the water pump. Coolant ONLY flows through the radiator when the thermostat is open; otherwise is just cycles around in the block and doesn't flow into the radiator. The thermostat opens automatically when the engine reaches the top end of its operating temp, but can also be opened electronically by the engine management computer, under certain conditions. Coolant ONLY flows through the heater core when you turn on the heater, as noted above. If the thermostat is stuck open, coolant always flows through the radiator, and the engine is cooled off more than needed. If the thermostat is stuck closed, coolant never flows through the radiator, and you overheat (fortunately, this is rare on the E46). If the heater valve is stuck open, coolant always flows through the heater core, and you always get hot air out the vents (though if you run the A/C it'll cool it off quite considerably). If the heater valve is stuck closed, you'll never get warm air from the vents. Now, the heater core is always supposed to be completely full of coolant. If you drain the coolant for service, it'll drain out of the heater core - however, when you refill the coolant, you have to make sure the heater valve is OPEN, or the replacement coolant won't completely fill the heater core; the air pockets will just hang out there and cause trouble. Revving the engine will make the water pump spin faster, and make coolant flow faster through the block (and maybe the radiator, and maybe the heater core). So if you open the heater valve and rev the engine, the fast-flowing coolant will hopefully "burp" the system, forcing the air bubbles around into other parts of the system; when those bubbles eventually get to the expansion tank, they don't leave - though you'll need to top up the expansion tank. You won't have to do it much - or at all, if you haven't had any work on the cooling system recently. Note that if the heater valve is stuck closed, it won't work anyway. Further diagnosis: If you're cruising at low RPMs, the engine isn't generating much heat. If the thermostat is stuck open, coolant freely flowing through the radiator will discharge heat faster than the engine makes it. If the temp needle is sitting quite solidly at the 12-o'clock position, even when cruising on the highway, then the thermostat is quite likely NOT stuck open; it's cycling closed and open like it's supposed to. To diagnose the heater valve, the test will be to find the valve on the driver's shock tower in the engine bay, and feel the temperature of the hoses to and from the valve, while the car is warm and running with the heater on. If I recall correctly, there's one hose going from the engine (cylinder head) to the valve, one hose returning from the valve to the engine (heater off), and one hose going from the valve to the firewall and heater core (heater on). There's also a return hose coming from the heater core/firewall into the expansion tank. If the hoses going in and out of the firewall are cold, even when the heater is turned on, then the valve isn't opening like it's supposed to.

Last edited by nathancarter; 11-10-2010 at 03:52 PM .

Originally Posted by Pawan77 DO I NEED TO HOLD DOWN THE GAS PEDAL FOR A WHILE IN THE RED ZONE, I PRESSED IT BRIEFLY INTO THE RED ZONE for this diagnosis. what are you talking about here? I pray to the bimmer Gods above you are not talking about the operation temp. DO NOT EVER GO INTO RED or you will blow headgasket, warp head, scar piston walls, and a gajillion other horrible things.

Originally Posted by aka fonz what are you talking about here? I pray to the bimmer Gods above you are not talking about the operation temp. DO NOT EVER GO INTO RED or you will blow headgasket, warp head, scar piston walls, and a gajillion other horrible things. Nah, I think he just means he revved it up to redline (6000+ RPM) for a sec. Good for burping air out of the heater core, *IF* the heater valve is open, and *IF* the original problem was air in the heater core.

Originally Posted by aka fonz what are you talking about here? I pray to the bimmer Gods above you are not talking about the operation temp. DO NOT EVER GO INTO RED or you will blow headgasket, warp head, scar piston walls, and a gajillion other horrible things. I am talking abt the revs not the temp gauge.

Originally Posted by Pawan77 I am talking abt the revs not the temp gauge. lol, okay i was a little worried for a second.

OK, the blower started blowing hot air since yesterday. yesterday it blowed hot air but not as it used to be, little warm air but not with speed. Since this morning it is working normal. Could it be a bad heater valve? or just the air bubbles? I will diagnose for the heater valve this weekend and will post. Thanks

Vents always blowing warm air

This is an old thread, but a new problem for me. I did not find any posts dealing with my situation. Just bought a '04 325it with 39,000 miles on it- not bad for a 15 year old car- but the vents always blow warm air until I turn on the A/C, then it is moderately cool air. I tried pinching off the top hose on the heater control valve per previous threads, but that did not make any difference. If I move the temp to the hot position, it is still only warm, probably because the heater hose is pinched off. But why is it still blowing warm air- not hot, just warm?? How could that happen if there is no coolant flow into the heater core? I did not pinch it overly tight so as to not crush or tear the rubber hose, but it is 99% closed if not 100%. I hope I do not have to start looking under the dashboard. Any ideas??

Not sure if its relevant or not - we have had our X5 for about a year now. Mostly used for short trips under 20 min, and it makes good enough heat in winter then. But if we take it on long trips, we find it starts blowing cool air. Looking through this thread, I figured it might be bubbles in the heater core (heater valve was replaced since we got the vehicle). But the fan inside the heater control unit may be the source of the problem. If it does not work - on long trips, that unit begins to heat up (in winter), and no longer reads the ambient temperature inside the vehicle well. As a result, we get cool air blowing out of the vents. Still have to confirm this... Have a new unit to swap in.

• Private Messages
• Subscriptions
• Who's Online
• Search Forums
• Forums Home
• BMW Employee and Technician Talk
• BMW Rides & Events
• Lighting sponsored by BAVToys
• For Sale Parts Classifieds
• Track Car Builds
• Drag Racing
• Professional Motorsports sponsored by Bimmerworld
• Suspension Tech and Handling sponsored by eBMWParts.com
• Wheels & Tires For Sale / Wanted
• Car Audio & Electronics sponsored by Bavsound
• Car Detailing and Show & Shine Prep sponsored by Autogeek.net
• General BMW Mechanical Help sponsored by RM European Auto Parts
• Engine Conversions
• Engine Tuning
• Diagnostic Software
• Kill Stories
• 1 Series M Coupe
• 1975 - 1983 (E21)
• 1983 - 1991 (E30)
• 1991 - 1999 (E36)
• 2006 - 2012 (E90, E91, E92, E93)
• 2012-2019 (F30, F32, F33, F34, F36)
• 2018+ (3-Series sub (G20, G22, G23, G24)
• 1982 - 1988 (E28)
• 1988 - 1996 (E34)
• E39 Touring / Wagon
• 2004-2010 (E60,E61)
• 2011-2016 (F10)
• 2017+ (G30)
• 1976 - 1989 (E24)
• 2004+ (E63, E64, F06, F12, F13)
• 1978 - 1987 (E23)
• E32 Classifieds
• 1995 - 2001 (E38)
• 2002 - 2008 (E65, E66)
• 2009+ (F01,F02,G11,G12)
• 8 Series (E31)
• 8 Series (G14,G15,G16)
• 2011 1 Series M Coupe (E82)
• 1987 - 1991 M3 (E30)
• 1992 - 1999 M3 (E36)
• 1994 - 1999 Euro M3 (E36)
• 2001 - 2006 M3 (E46)
• 2008 - 2013 M3 (E90, E92, E93)
• 2014 - 2020 M3 & M4 (F80, F82, F83)
• 2021 M3 & M4 (G80, G82)
• 2000 - 2003 M5 and Z8 (E39, E52)
• 2006 - 2010 M5 & M6 (E60, E61, E63, E64)
• 2010-2023 M5, M6 & M8 (F10, F12, F13, F90, F91, F92, F93)
• 2012+ X1, X2 (E84,F48)
• 2003+ X3, X4 (E83, F25, F26, F97, F98, G02)
• 1999+ X5, X6 (E53, E70, E71, F15, F16, G05, G06)
• 2020+ X7 (G07)
• 1996 - 2002 Z3 (E36/7, E36/8)
• 2002 - 2008 Z4 (E85, E86)
• 2009 - 2016 Z4 (E89)
• 2019+ Z4 (G29) / 2020+ Toyota Supra (A90/J29)
• Z3,Z4,Z8 Classifieds
• MINI (Cooper & Cooper S)
• 1968-1977 (E3, E9, E12)
• 1966-1974 2002
• BMW Cars For Sale / Wanted
• Brake Kits, Rotors & Pads
• Car Audio & Electronics
• Drivetrain & Transmission Parts
• Engines, Performance Parts & Software
• Exterior Lighting & Body Parts
• Interior Lighting & Body Parts
• Suspensions, Springs & Shocks
• Whole Parts Cars
• Race Cars & Track Parts
• Forced & Chemical Induction Parts
• Wheels and Tires
• BMW Parts Wanted
• Group Purchases & Supporting Vendor Specials presented by eBay
• Vendor Comments & Supporting Vendor Info
• California sponsored by Avus Autosport
• Great Plains & Rocky Mountains - US
• Middle Atlantic - US
• New England - US
• New York / New Jersey / Connecticut
• Pacific Northwest - US
• Georgia sponsored by Harrison Motorsports
• Hawaii & Other Islands
• Australia / New Zealand
• Photography & Multi Media
• Video Gaming
• Announcements
• Forum Software Questions & Suggestions

Posting Permissions

• You may not post new threads
• You may not post replies
• You may not post attachments
• You may not edit your posts
• BB code is On
• Smilies are On
• [IMG] code is On
• [VIDEO] code is On
• HTML code is Off

Forum Rules

• Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• BMW Model Discussions
• 3 Series & 4 Series
• E36 (1991 - 1999)

Fading trip computer display

• Add to quote

Hello, I drive a 1995 325i, unfortunately it looks my car is showing signs of age. The LCD/LED display unit of the trip computer/system messages has practically faded out completely. Is this something that I can replace on my own and further where can I order a spare? If there are any instructions, can you point it to me. I have not been able to find anything searching through google and the like. The mechanic that I spoke to told me that this would cost me atleast $500 if not more to get replaced. Another friend of mine suggested getting a "german" unit, but again I am not sure how to go about that either. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you, G  

govardha said: Hello, I drive a 1995 325i, unfortunately it looks my car is showing signs of age. The LCD/LED display unit of the trip computer/system messages has practically faded out completely. Is this something that I can replace on my own and further where can I order a spare? If there are any instructions, can you point it to me. I have not been able to find anything searching through google and the like. The mechanic that I spoke to told me that this would cost me atleast $500 if not more to get replaced. Another friend of mine suggested getting a "german" unit, but again I am not sure how to go about that either. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you, G Click to expand...

Thanks for your comment. When my friend alluded to a german part, I should have clarified. The display unit he had displayed in his E36 displayed output in German and in km rather than in english and in miles. Although that would be cool ;-). What part should I search for in ebay? The panel has faded out quite a bit. The only way I can see it is weirdly so in bright daylight. Thanks for your response. Govardhanen  

govardha said: Thanks for your comment. When my friend alluded to a german part, I should have clarified. The display unit he had displayed in his E36 displayed output in German and in km rather than in english and in miles. Although that would be cool ;-). What part should I search for in ebay? The panel has faded out quite a bit. The only way I can see it is weirdly so in bright daylight. Thanks for your response. Govardhanen Click to expand...

I agree. Ebay is a good source for these units. I bought a radio/cd player there for my E36. The LED's were dark on the old one. Good Luck... :banana:  

Hey guys This just happened to me too and I haven't tried it yet but . . . The lights on my radio display screen went out too and they seem to be the same basic thing - I pulled my radio out and removed the "lid" and just gave the bulb a little shake. Now my radio light is super bright. Like I said, I haven't tried it with the computer display yet, but just thought I'd mention. . .  

buy some bulbs... ...But avoid purchasing the replacement bulbs from the stealer. I replaced all four bulbs in my OBC, but made the mistake of buying the bulbs from BMW to the tune of five bucks a piece. Oh well, I was in a hurry for some reason. Regardless of the fact I overpaid for bulbs, the OBC looks much better with all the lights working. Replacing the bulbs was a piece of cake, simply reach up through the roof of your sunglass bin, stick your finger in the hole and pry out the On Board Computer. Four bulbs in the top :bigpimp:  

Yeah, as the last two guys mentioned, unless pixels are dying out, it's the backlighting bulbs, which are rather cheap and available from PelicanParts and BavAuto alike. Simple fix! (there should be a BavAuto write up in one of their quarterly newsletters which they keep archived on their site)  

Fantastic thread! Thanks to all who posted. I just had a customer come back after a simple engine repair and say that ever since... (lol, i love the "ever since") anyway his trip computer didnt work since he had the repair work done. loose connection at the backlight bulb, replaced the bulb/holder and badabing! done! Thanks tons folks!  

97 328i clock lite bulb in computer  

What?  

I just smack my dash when the trip odometer bulb doesn't fire up, works most of the time.  

Thanks, ended up putting new bulb in and it works fine.  

• ?            
• 11.5M posts
• 773K members

Top Contributors this Month