trek aplha 2.5

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Trek 2.5 review

Good all-rounder but no racer

Trek's carbon Madones get a lot of attention – not surprising given the number of high-profile race victories they’ve chalked up under the likes of Lance Armstrong and Alberto Contador. Tucked away just below them in the line-up are the aluminium 2- Series models, which share the same geometry and many similar ride characteristics at more affordable prices.

Ride & handling: Plenty of long-ride comfort, but it's difficult to get aero for racing

Hitting the scales at just under 19lb for the 60cm model, the Trek is a middleweight, but there’s very little frame flex to dull its reactions. Fire up your muscles and it’ll respond dutifully with a surge of speed, if lacking the spark of price rivals from the likes of Boardman.

It’s comfortable enough too, the fairly high front end taking some of the strain off your lower back, and the overall ride-quality is pretty smooth. The saddle is one only a mother could love – there’s not enough padding or hull flex for our taste – but that aside, the Trek handled our worst-surfaced test route just fine.

Head for the hills and, though the 2.5 isn’t the most natural climber in the world, it gets to work without complaint – the compact chainset giving you the ratios you need to keep spinning up the steep stuff.

The flipside is that you can run out of gears on the fastest descents, which is a shame because this bike has a stable, confidence-inspiring assurance that makes you want to push harder.

The newly improved Shimano Ultegra brakes add to that feeling. Thanks to a better block compound they come with more stopping power this year, especially in wet conditions, and that gives you the confidence to fly downhill.

The tall head tube that’s such a bonus for training in comfort makes getting into a flat-backed race position more dificult. With that in mind, take a good look at the Trek if you’re after a solid-performing bike for non-racing duties – but it wouldn’t be top of our list if we wanted something that could handle racing too.

Chassis: Fairly restrained aluminium frame plus carbon-bladed fork

Trek hydroform the 2.5’s frame from their medium grade of Alpha aluminium but, unlike some manufacturers who go down the ‘look what we can do’ route when faced with the shaping possibilities, the finished article is fairly restrained.

The shield-profiled top tube, which starts out big and chunky at the head tube junction, slims down along its length, while the down tube morphs from a teardrop shape to a broad oval that extends across virtually the full width of the bottom bracket shell.

Out back, the seatstays and chainstays are both straight, while the fork, like most at this price, is carbon bladed with an alloy steerer. What’s different is that it’s SpeedTrap compatible – which means you get a slot in one leg for neatly fitting a wireless computer sensor.

In terms of geometry, the 2.5’s head tube is longer than average – 21cm on our big blokes’ 60cm model – and you don’t get a low front-end option like you do on the top-end Madones. This fact had us immediately swapping headset spacers around to get a lower, more aggressive setup, but you might like the slightly more upright position.

The top tube slopes downwards, though not severely, to give you extra standover room, the smooth welds are barely noticeable beneath the lustrous paintwork and you get mudguard eyelets front and rear.

Equipment: Polished performance from Ultegra groupset, but we'd swap basic saddle and tyres

The Trek comes fitted with a full complement of Shimano’s second-tier Ultegra components – apart from the 105 cassette that they’ve snuck in at the back – and it’s slick, high-performing kit.

For 2010, Shimano have made some major upgrades, including to the levers, which now have more comfortable hoods and composite levers that are angled further outwards for better fingertip control.

The gear cables also join the brake cables underneath the bar tape for the first time, although that’s a mixed blessing. It might neaten things up, but it makes fitting clip-on tri bars just a touch more awkward.

Absolutely everything else comes from Trek’s own Bontrager brand, including the Race wheels, which are reasonably light and surprisingly flex-free when you get out of the saddle. They’ll be even more lively if you upgrade the low-rent tyres.

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2011 Trek 2.5

An aluminum frame general road bike with high-end components and rim brakes.

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An aero aluminium frame with a curious component selection and a riding position that's too sat up for flat-out TT speed

Read Review

July 2011 · Guy Kesteven

The latest aerodynamic science at an affordable price, but rider fit and responsiveness issues leave the Trek disappointing overall

Last updated 29 June Not listed for 2,480 days

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You Are Here: Home > Trek Road Bikes > Trek 2.5 2012 Review

Trek 2.5 2012 Review

Every model within Trek’s 2 & 1 series offers riding enthusiasts the opportunity to purchase a bike that features the latest technological advances made in the biking industry without the expensive price tag, which is why this is one of Treks most successful ranges.

Possessing many of the features found on models within Trek’s high end Madone range , it is clear to see why the Trek 2.5 is one of the most revered bikes within the 2 & 1 series. Constructed using Trek’s premium 200 series Alpha aluminium, which is formed into a precise tube shaped design, ensures the Trek 2.5 is one of the lightest yet taut and toughest aluminium bikes available in any 2012 range. The lightness, rigidity and strength of the frame helps transfer a cyclists power directly to the road so that they can power up steep inclines more easily. Trek have utilised their Tour-tested geometry on the Trek 2.5, this race-centric geometry provides riders with a bike that handles perfectly and possesses the perfect geometric design to help riders accelerate more easily. Similarly, Trek have also placed their H2 fit design on the Trek 2.5, this unique design slightly increases the height of the head tube. This slight design alteration ensures a more comfortable ride, especially on longer journeys, as less strain is placed on the riders back and neck.

There are a number of premium components included on the Trek 2.5, which only further enhances this bike’s racing characteristics. Firstly, Trek have attached a Bontrager Race carbon bladed with alloy steerer to this well designed frame, which Trek promises will provide riders with precise handling at all times. Other high quality, racing features of the Trek 2.5 includes a combination of Shimano Ultegra and 105 components. This select grouping guarantees that the 2.5 shifts smoothly, transforms a rider’s efforts in speed, while the first-class braking system will provide riders with plenty of control. The Trek 2.5 is definitely a racing bike, a natural climber this bike powers up inclines better than most carbon models, yet its H2 Fit design promises that the 2.5 is comfortable. This combination of comfort, agility and strength makes the Trek 2.5 an ideal choice for longer journeys as well as quick paced races, while its eye catching blue will attract the attention from envious fellow enthusiasts. The two series also comprises of the cheaper alternatives look at the Trek 2.1 and Trek 2.3 .

Related reviews:

• Trek Madone 3.5 2012 Review
• Trek Madone 4.7 2012 Review
• Trek 2.3 2012 Review

Written by: Quatos

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Trek Alpha 2.5 Road Bike Fulcrum Racing 5 Wheels Ultegra Groupset

Posted on June 11, 2021

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Trek Alpha 2.5 Road Bike Fulcrum Racing 5 Wheels Ultegra Groupset. Condition is “Used”. Frame size is 54cm, groupset is shimano ultegra 10 speed with a 105 cassette and rear brake. Chain and cassette have been replaced recently as has the handlebar tape. Headset and bottom bracket has been serviced and all gear and brake cables have been replaced. Bottle cage rivets will need replacing. Fulcrum racing five wheels with vittoria Rubinho pro tyres 700x25c. Shimano pedals.

Advertised elsewhere, may end early if sold. Offers welcome.

Current Price: £300.00

This Trek Alpha 2.5 Road Bike Fulcrum Racing 5 Wheels Ultegra Groupset is being sold on eBay by dmega96 from Liverpool, L7 ***

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My vernier callipers give the following tube measurements at the thickest points: down tube 81.5 x 30mm; seat tube 80 x 32.5mm; seatpost 69 x 20mm. Trek say it's the most aerodynamic shape ever designed for a bicycle, and it certainly looks the business. Fellow racers appraised it keenly.

However, the aerodynamics of the frame itself isn't a huge deal in terms of the seconds it will save. The most important thing is the aerodynamics of you, the rider: your position, your skin-tight gear, and your pointy hat. After that you want deep section (or rear disc) wheels with the fastest-rolling tyres you can finish your race on. A faster frame is incrementally helpful but it's not a substitute for these other factors – as I found out when I raced it.

Frame, fork & fit

Two things are striking about the frame, apart from the tube profiles. Thing one is the attention that's been paid to aero details. The cables run internally. The rear brake is mounted out of the way underneath the chainstays. The junction between the head tube and the carbon fork (aluminium steerer) is neatly filled in.

Thing two is the steep seat tube angle, a feature common on aero bikes these days but which was largely introduced by triathletes. I measured it at 78.5 degrees. The effective seat tube angle will depend where exactly you clamp the saddle rails and whether you set the clamp facing forward or backward on top of the post; layback is plus/minus 10mm. Whatever you do, the angle will be somewhere between very steep and very, very steep.

The benefit of this for time trialling (and presumably triathlon) is that you can get forward over the bottom bracket. This opens up your hip angle: for a given torso angle, you end up bending less acutely at the waist than you would if you were sitting further back. If feels less squashed and it's good for putting the power down when you're on the tri bars.

If you're sitting further forward, you want the armrests a bit further forward too. (Note that CTT regulations state that the back of your elbow can't be more than 3cm in front of a line drawn through the centre of the head tube, so there's a limit to how far forward you can go.) On the Speed Concept 2.5, the armrests aren't further forward.

Reach is unusually short on this bike. The effective top tube length is only 52cm, which is small for a Medium sized bike. It's that short not because Trek have scrimped on the front centre distance – they haven't; there's enough room between the front hub and the bottom bracket to avoid toe overlap, a nice bonus on a race bike – but because the steeper seat tube eats into the top tube length. The cables that bulk up behind the stem are close enough to catch your knees on if you get out of the saddle.

A longer stem would maintain the saddle-to-handlebar distance. This one is 8cm, and just sitting on the bike in a TT position, I felt cramped. I wanted a stem about 12cm long, maybe longer. That's not an expensive or difficult upgrade, admittedly. The alternative, even though I am only average sized, would be to go up a size to the Large. The knock-on effect of that would be to raise the handlebar by another 2.5cm, since the Large bike's head tube is that much taller. A higher bar is the last thing I'd want; even a glance showed that there wasn't much drop from the saddle to the armrests.

The tape measure confirmed this. With the stem at its lowest point on the steerer, the relative position of the armrests on the Trek was more than 6cm higher than those on my own bike. (That has a dropped stem, true, but I could get the same bar position on my bike with a flat stem; the dropped stem gives scope to go another 2-3cm lower than shown.) The reason for the Trek's high bars relative to the saddle is a combination of a few things, the smallest of which is crank length. (I race on 165mm cranks.)

The two big differences are the tri bar arrangement and the bottom bracket height. The Trek's armrests fit on top of the tri bar extensions, which themselves sit on top of the base bar. While you can turn the tri bar brackets upside down to run the extensions underneath the base bar, the armrests then won't fit properly because the base bar is in the way. If this were my bike, I would immediately ditch these Bontrager tri bars and fit some with lower armrests. Easton Aeroforce bars would do it – they're about £90 – and there are plenty of others.

The bottom bracket height is something you can't change. It's deliberately low. Trek have made it low 'for stability', they say. On corners, they may have a point; in a straight line, like what you do in time trials most of the time, I've not found that bottom bracket height makes a difference, even on the tri bars. The other effect of lowering the bottom bracket height is that it lowers the saddle height, and reduces the drop from saddle to handlebar, by the same amount. Result: you sit that much more upright.

There are a few unusual frame/fork features. The fork is 'SpeedTrap compatible', so you can fit a computer sensor without messing up the airflow around one of the fork legs. If you use a wheel magnet computer rather than GPS, this is a worthwhile extra. There are a couple of sets of bottle bosses, and what looks like a third set on top of the top tube, behind the stem. This is for a Speed Storage box – essentially an aerodynamic Tupperware box for snacks. I didn't have the opportunity to try this.

The Speed Concept's sophisticated frame and fork no doubt absorb quite a bit of the entry-level budget, so there isn't money left for fancy wheels. You get straightforward aluminium clincher rims with 23mm road tyres; the only nods towards speed are the spokes (24 per wheel rather than 32, and they're bladed) and the cool-looking aero quick releases.

Deep section carbon wheels aren't cheap, so it's understandable that they're absent on this entry-level bike. But you definitely want faster tyres. I'd fit Continental Grand Prix Supersonics with latex innertubes.

The groupset is Sram Apex with bar-end levers. Apart from the levers, it's Sram Apex as you would fit it to a sportive bike: 50-34 compact chainset and an 11-28 cassette. On a time trial or triathlon bike, this is a bizarre setup. A 34-tooth chainring is neither use nor ornament, and if you find yourself using it in a race, you may as well sit up and pedal gently back to the finish. The 11-28 cassette means that you have relatively wide steps between gears, potentially spoiling your racing cadence. A compact double and a wide cassette make sense on a road bike, which you might ride recreationally or race somewhere hilly. On an aero race bike like this, even if it's meant for novices, sportive gearing makes no sense at all.

The cranks are slightly longer than most average-sized bike riders would normally use, being 172.5 rather than 170. I can't say I noticed any difference when pedalling, but it does mean that the saddle will be slightly lower. And you'll have 5mm less room between your knee and your chest at the top of the pedal stroke – a consideration if you can adopt a very low tuck.

You don't use brakes much when time trialling, but these worked fine. The aero levers are a nice touch.

The acid test on a TT bike is: how fast do you go on it? Given that I was sitting more upright and felt a bit cramped, I thought I'd be slower. I was. Racing 10-mile TTs on courses that I know well, with the same kit, the same heart rate, and similar weather conditions, I was 45-60 seconds slower. That's measured against my own times in events just days apart, and more importantly against competitors who were present each time I was racing.

Some of this is down to wheels and tyres: my own bike has 50mm carbon rims and Schwalbe Ultremo TT tubulars. Some of it may be because of the gearing. Much of it, I'm sure, is down to the riding position. I couldn't get aero enough. It was marginally better when I slid the saddle right back to try to gain some breathing room.

Whether you'll run into this fitting problem is hard to say. It depends how tall you are, how much of your height is in your legs compared to your torso, and how low you want to go when you're on the tri bars. If you're taller, and particularly if you've got relatively long legs, you'll automatically get more drop from the saddle to the bars than I did.

For what it's worth, I'm average height (178cm), averagely proportioned (maybe a little longer in the torso), and not particularly flexible, due to some fused vertebrae in my lower back. If this review and Mat's of the 9.9 don't seem to chime, it's worth bearing a couple of things in mind: firstly, that the 9.9 is a much more expensive and much nicer bike; and secondly, that Mat is 12cm taller than me.

Despite what the blurb promised, I didn't find the Speed Concept 2.5 especially stable when riding on the tri bars. I'm used to having more bodyweight bearing down on the armrests, so the steering actually felt quite light and wandery.

The Trek Speed Concept 2.5 has a nice, aero frame, but everything else, including – for me - the riding position, is a bit of a let-down. It's not a bad bike but I wouldn't choose to race on it unless I could immediately spend another £200 on it. I'd get a longer, steeply dropped stem, different tri bars, and some faster tyres and tubes. (New wheels and gears would have to wait.) The other option would be to use that extra £200 to get a different bike: £1600 buys a carbon Planet X Stealth with 82/101mm carbon wheels and better gearing.

For racers taller than me, and for those who don't want as much drop between saddle and handlebar, the Speed Concept 2.5 could represent a good investment. There are things you'll want to upgrade – not least the weird sportive-style gearing and the non-aero wheels – but this chassis is worth hanging some upgrades on. Yes, it's aluminium rather than carbon, and that means a weight penalty, but for racing against the clock, aerodynamics is a bigger concern. Just make sure that you'll be aerodynamic enough when you're sitting on it before you go ahead and buy it.

An aero aluminium frame with a curious component selection and a riding position that's too sat up for flat-out TT speed

road.cc test report

Make and model: Trek Speed Concept 2.5

Size tested: Medium

About the bike

State the frame and fork material and method of construction. List the components used to build up the bike.

Frame and fork: Trek 200 series Alpha Aluminium, Kammtail Virtual Foil shape, fittings for 2 x bottle and top tube 'Bento box'. Bontrager Race Lite E2 Speed Concept carbon forks, SpeedTrap compatible

Wheels: 23-622 Bontrager R1 Plus tyres, Bontrager 622x14 aluminium clincher rims, 24 bladed spokes (radial front, cross-two rear), unbranded aluminium hubs

Transmission: no pedals, Sram Apex chainset 172.5mm 50/34T, Truvativ GXP external bottom bracket, KMC X10 chain, Sram PG 1050 11-28T 10-speed cassette. Sram 500 TT bar end levers, Sram Apex derailleurs. 20-speed, 32-121 inches

Braking: Bontrager Race Lite aero levers, dual pivot front brake, Tektro Quartz chainstay-mounted rear brake

Steering and seating: 420x31.8mm Bontrager Race Bull Horn handlebar with Bontrager Race Lite clip-on aero bars, 80mm x 7� Bontrager Race Lite stem, FSA integrated headset (1in top, 1 1/8in bottom). Vision AeroMax Tri saddle, Bontrager Speed Concept Race X Lite seatpost.

Tell us what the bike is for, and who it's aimed at. What do the manufacturers say about it? How does that compare to your own feelings about the bike?

Trek say: This stellar aluminium tri series is perfect for the value-conscious triathlete looking for a stable, super-aero ride.

I say: it wasn't super aero when I was on it. Nor is the guy riding it in the picture on Trek's website.

Frame and fork

Tell us about the build quality and finish of the frame and fork?

Well made, aero, and looks the business.

Tell us about the materials used in the frame and fork?

Aluminium frame, carbon fork (with aluminium steerer).

Tell us about the geometry of the frame and fork?

Very steep seat angle. Low bottom bracket. Good front centres distance. Sensible head angle - not too twitchy, although I needed more weight on the bars.

Here are the measurements I made of the bike:

Seat clamp centre to stem clamp centre (horizontal) 600mm

Effective top tube 520mm

Standover 770mm

Seat angle 78.5 degrees

Head angle 72.5 degrees

Fork offset 45mm

Overall wheel diameter (inc tyre) 676mm

Crank length 172.5mm

Seat tube length (centre to top) 550mm

BB to ground 264mm

Chainstay length 400mm

BB to front hub 595mm

Wheelbase 985mm

Rear wheel hub spacing 130mm

Rim bead seat to chainstay brace 35mm

Tyre width 23mm

ISO wheelsize at bead seat 622mm

How was the bike in terms of height and reach? How did it compare to other bikes of the same stated size?

Reach is short. I'd expect a medium to have an effective top tube of 53-54cm. The stem is short too, which compounds this. Bar height feels high, relative to the saddle.

Riding the bike

Was the bike comfortable to ride? Tell us how you felt about the ride quality.

No saddle problems. Armrests generously padded. So it was comfortable enough, just slow.

Did the bike feel stiff in the right places? Did any part of the bike feel too stiff or too flexible?

No noticeable flex.

How did the bike transfer power? Did it feel efficient?

Power transfer was fine but it didn't feel efficient, because I was bludgeoning through the wind with my upper body.

Was there any toe-clip overlap with the front wheel? If so, was it a problem?

No overlap. An unexpected bonus.

How would you describe the steering? Was it lively, neutral or unresponsive? Somewhat light when riding on the tri bars, due to lack of bodyweight on the bars, but not a problem.

Tell us some more about the handling. How did the bike feel overall? Did it do particular things well or badly?

It felt like a road bike with clip on TT bars due to the riding position. It didn't accelerate as quickly as my carbon TT bike, because it's heavier.

Which components had the most effect (good or bad) on the bike's comfort? would you recommend any changes?

I'd probably swap the saddle at some point. It's okay, but there are better ones available.

Which components had the most effect (good or bad) on the bike's efficiency? would you recommend any changes?

I'd swap tyres, tubes, stem and bars immediately, and wheels and gears when I could afford it.

Power transfer is good. It just didn't make the most efficient use of that power out on the road.

Slow out of the blocks, but I'm used to a lightweight carbon fixed wheel bike.

You don't really need to sprint on a TT bike, but when you are winding up the pace the bike's weight and gappy cassette are an issue.

Pretty good.

Not applicable. Cruisers are losers in a TT.

Not applicable for TTing.

It will get you up any hill you encouner, although not as punchily as I'd like.

The drivetrain

A bizarre choice for a TT bike.

The 34T ring will last forever because you'll never use it!

Smaller cassette please.

Not great, because you'd want to replace much of it.

Tell us some more about the drivetrain. Anything you particularly did or didn't like? Any components which didn't work well together?

This is a sportive groupset - on a TT bike.

Wheels and tyres

Not affected by side winds.

They're a necessary economy.

Tell us some more about the wheels and tyres.Did they work well in the conditions you encountered? Would you change the wheels or tyres? If so, what for?

I would change the tyres for Continental Grand Prix Supersonics and the wheels for carbon clinchers - unless I could get a good deal on some carbon tubular wheels and tyres.

Shifters a bit clunky.

Tell us some more about the controls. Any particularly good or bad components? How would the controls work for larger or smaller riders?

Nice brake levers.

Your summary

Did you enjoy riding the bike? No.

Would you consider buying the bike? No.

Would you recommend the bike to a friend? Possibly, if they could get a decent aerodynamic fit on it and were prepared to spend money on upgrades.

Anything further to say about the bike in conclusion?

The stopwatch doesn't lie. It didn't provide what I'm looking for in a TT bike. That's not to say it's bad as such, nor that it won't suit you better. I would suggest getting the frame and fork only and building it up with a shrewder choice of components, except that's only possible with the carbon version. Trek have done some clever stuff with the frame, but I can't help feeling that this budget version is too compromised as a complete bike.

Overall rating: 5 /10

About the tester

Age: 42   Height: 1.78m   Weight: 65kg

I usually ride: Ridgeback Solo World fixed wheel   My best bike is: Planet X Pro Carbon Track (with front brake)

I've been riding for: Over 20 years   I ride: Every day   I would class myself as: Experienced

I regularly do the following types of riding: time trialling, cyclo cross, commuting, touring, club rides, sportives, general fitness riding, fixed/singlespeed, mtb,

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Re frame geometry - Just goes to prove, really, that different shapes and flexibilities of rider may need to look at different bikes, even within the same manufacturers range ... which is why buying something as personal as a bicycle without reference to a good retailer who knows his stuff is such a bad idea. Low bracket height, BTW, will enhance stability if the other factors in ride position are correct and the general geometry of the bike is right - but won't make a jot of difference if the weight distribution is wrong, or, say, the head geometry / fork geometry is mis-matched.

As for compact gearing, you have to be careful not to assume that all riders will be riding TTs on pan-flat courses. 50 x 11 is a tall enough top gear for most (in reality, even if not in their fantasy lives)and the 36 sure gives a great get-out-of-jail card on a hilly bike section when you have to face a run after your TT. Granted the 28T bottom seems a bit OTT though - a 25 would have done! Mind you, that's a Southerner's perspective ... I take on board what Faroon says above.

As for the wheels, well, I am constantly amazed at the number of "new cyclists" and triathletes that run one pair of wheels all the year around, for everything, so providing them with a pair of fast training wheels that they can upgrade when they feel the need (as presumably this bike is aimed at entry level) is maybe not such a bad thing. Wheel aerodynamics are pretty near irrelevent until you are doing over about 35-40kph anyway - cube / square law of drag to speed applies!

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Sounds to me like this might have initially been designed as a women's bike and changed to a unisex one at the last minute:

Long legs, short torso - check. Low bottom bracket for toe down stopping - check. Lower gearing a less powerful rider - check.

The only thing that goes against it is the longer crank length.

I would say that somebody of 6'2" should definitely be riding a large! Which does prove the point about this bike being a peculiar set-up.

Great review.

I have a Speed Concept 7.0. It also came with a compact which I immediately swapped out for a double - I kept the 11-28 cassette as Sccottish Triathlons are notoriously hilly. I also immediately swapped out the Bontrager tri-bars, and put on Easton Carbon jobs - they are 'under-slung', sit further forwards, and are much lighter, and they allow me to get much further down at the front end.

I have a medium frame, but I'm 6'2", so I find it a nice fit and plenty aero enough.

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If you are looking for a first road bike or solid winter steed, this is a quality frame that will last the course and not let you down. The geometry is very relaxed, with this bike better suited to all day comfort and less flexible riders. The ride is smooth, but the brakes and a couple of other minor details let the overall package down when we consider the price.

Smooth ride

Accelerates well

Tiagra shifting is good

Tubeless ready rims

Lifetime warranty on the frame

23mm tyres not 25mm

No 32t cassette

Boring styling

You can trust Cycling Weekly. Our team of experts put in hard miles testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

Trek frames are synonymous with quality and their faith in the product is backed up by life time warranty. The frame is Trek's top drawer 'Alpha aluminium' whilst the fork is carbon fibre. In order to test the Trek 1.5 we have been riding it throughout winter, on commutes and longer training rides.

>>> The best cheap road bikes ridden and rated

The One series is Trek's base level frame and would potentially suit a large number of cyclists. If you are in the market for your first road bike, a dependable winter bike, or just something for epic sportives that won't break the bank, the Trek 1.5 is a great option. Hinting at this versatility is the inclusion of eyelets on the stays and forks, to aid the fitting of mudguards. There is also loads of mudguard/tyre clearance under the brakes. But, if you are flexible, or have good core strength you may find the upright posture this bike encourages limiting when you want to get lower and more aero.

 Geometry

The geometry of the Trek 1.5 is relaxed. For those new to cycling, this means that the horizontal reach from the saddle to the handle bars is shorter and the vertical height of the handle bars is higher. Rather than a super aggressive flat back like Bradley Wiggins , this enables the rider to sit more upright, in a more relaxed position.

This makes it ideal for new riders, who are yet to develop the core strength and flexibility that makes an aggressive position more sustainable. Our 58cm test model came with 44cm bars, which although less aerodynamic than a narrower bar, they may help add stability to overall handling to less confident riders.

>>> Complete buyer's guide to road bike groupsets

The Trek 1.5 comes fitted with a range of components. The shifters and derailleurs are Shimano Tiagra , but the chain set is FSA Vera and the brakes are unbranded callipers. We were hugely  impressed with the quality of the shifting on this bike. The FSA chainset works well in this regard with little or no flex, to hamper shifts.

We felt that the brakes let the bike down. The unbranded callipers didn't feel as responsive or stable as a Tiagra or Shimano 105  calliper. The lack of strength translates to less braking power and compromised modulation. That considered, the first thing we would upgrade on this bike would be the brakes. This is disappointing when we consider the overall price.

Our test model featured 23mm Bontrager R1 tyres. These rolled nicely and were puncture free for over a few weeks of winter riding and commuting on roads strewn with potential puncture hazards. We would have preferred to see this bike come fitted with 25mm tyres as they are stronger and can aid comfort. We do however like that Trek have equipped the bike with tubeless ready rims . Using tubeless tyres could reduce the risk of punctures.

>>> Guide to road bike tyres

The Tiagra rear cassette is 12-30t. With professionals even adopting 32t cassettes on steep mountainous days, it would be nicer if the Trek came with either a 12-32t cassette or a medium length cage rear derailleur, which would allow a 32t cassette to be fitted. Being a short cage derailleur, it is designed to only go up to 30t. This is in contrast to other bikes in a similar price range, such as the Giant Defy 3 and B'Twin Alur , which both have 32t cassettes as standard.

Ride and handling

Our favourite thing about the Trek 1.5 is the ride handling. Use of round tubes helps contribute to stiffness, whilst the carbon fork offers some dampening. The ride is very smooth, with the frame doing an excellent job of ironing out imperfections and bumps. Considering how well the frame absorbs road buzz we were pleasantly surprised to find that the bike is no slouch when you want to accelerate out the saddle either.

Compliant frames can often feel spongy when you give it the beans, but the Trek 1.5 quickly gets up to speed without any fuss. Wheels on bikes in this price range can often be bargain basement, with spokes that feel as if they are made of cooked spaghetti, but we were pleasantly surprised by the Bontrager wheels on this bike. They compliment the frame well and don't sacrifice ride quality.

Overall, the bike feels nicely balanced, with the weight centred. This is noticeable when riding uphill or track standing. Our 58cm test weighed in at a respectable 8.7kg without pedals. Cornering can feel a little tame, but will always be the case when a bike has a high front end. A lower front end enables you to lower your centre of gravity to a greater degree.

Whilst colour is subjective, we feel the Trek is rather boring to look at. The first thing that draws your eye to a bike is the way it looks and the Trek looks pretty utilitarian. Don't expect to cop admiring glances at the cafe stop. That said, plenty of us value function over form.

For more information, head over to Trek .

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Oliver Bridgewood - no, Doctor Oliver Bridgewood - is a PhD Chemist who discovered a love of cycling. He enjoys racing time trials, hill climbs, road races and criteriums. During his time at Cycling Weekly, he worked predominantly within the tech team, also utilising his science background to produce insightful fitness articles, before moving to an entirely video-focused role heading up the Cycling Weekly YouTube channel, where his feature-length documentary 'Project 49' was his crowning glory.  

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Trek Alpha 1.2 Review

February 9, 2023

‍ Key Takeaways

• The Trek Alpha 1.2 is a decent entry point to mountain and trail biking.
• The components are reliable, but won’t set any records.
• Handling and ride quality are serviceable, but braking is a major downside to this bike.
• Experienced riders will notice a bouncier ride and less responsive shifting.

This article may contain affiliate links where we earn a commission from qualifying purchases.

‍ This bike may not win any awards, or be able to compete with pricier models, but this could be a good first mountain bike if you’ve never ridden one before.

The Trek Alpha 1.2 is a budget-friendly option that utilizes the brand’s quality components in most areas. There may be some compromises considering the more specialized options out there, but rest assured that despite its flaws this bike is no slouch.

We’ve looked at the most-reviewed features (including the negatives as well as the positives) to bring you the best info available on the Alpha 1.2.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

‍ Where to Buy the Trek Alpha 1.2

The Trek Alpha 1.2 costs $959, and can be purchased directly from the Trek website .

A Brief History of Trek Bicycles

Trek was founded in the 1970s, attempting to penetrate the high-end market that had up until that point been dominated by European makers. It quickly gained a reputation for quality, with a foundation on hand-built steel frames.

However, launching its own factory in the 1980s meant that it also had to keep with the times, which meant a shift to aluminum frames. It also meant the advent of hybrid bikes, which combined the best of mountain bikes and road bikes into one line. The next decades led to several brand acquisitions and consistent recognition in the marketplace for excellence in quality and performance.

Trek’s Bontrager line of accessories is also a gold standard for those wanting to customize their bikes. They also held a long-standing licensing agreement to produce LeMond bikes, a prominent brand in speed racing (although this brand has since been discontinued).

Trek Alpha 1.2 Specs and Geometry

The Alpha 1.2 has had several iterations over time, which means that although it is a budget-friendly option, it has had the chance to improve over time. Trek does a good job of incorporating research and features from its higher-end bikes on down the spectrum, and the Alpha is no exception. It benefits from the quality parts Trek has built its reputation on over the decades.

The Alpha 1.2 weighs 21.5 pounds. This is a lighter bike for sure, which (in addition to a price point under a thousand dollars) makes this a great starting point for riders that are exploring mountain and trail riding but don’t want to break the bank just yet.

This lighter bike weight does mean that the overall weight capacity is slightly lower. The total capacity (which includes the bike itself, the rider, and all equipment and accessories) is 275 pounds. This may not cause problems for the majority of riders, but if you plan on bringing any kind of gear with you on the trail, you will want to think carefully about what you bring along.

The handlebars are not curved, which can make it easier to bring them back to a straight-forward position. This is a benefit to those who might not be used to a curved setup, although it does have some limitations for more experienced riders and may be a less comfortable position on longer rides.

The price point and equipment set does put this bike at the lower end of the spectrum when it comes to quality and all-around excellence. This does not in any way diminish the many positives of this bike; but when set next to its bigger and more expensive counterparts, it lacks some luster and looks appropriately less outstanding by comparison.

There are seven different sizes to choose from, making this a versatile choice no matter what size you may be. A little planning and research gives you the perfect fit for your personal size.

Trek Alpha 1.2 Build Quality

We hesitate to return to the term “affordable” too often, but it does come into play when thinking about the build quality and included components. It is affordable in most senses of the word, and while that does not mean the quality is poor, you could do better by shelling out a few extra dollars and going with a more premium model.

Like many Trek bikes, the Alpha 1.2 features an aluminum frame. This lends to the overall lighter weight, and sets it in great company with its Trek brethren as sturdy bikes that will hold up to whatever Mother Nature can dish out.

The frame does rise at the front end, which does create a more comfortable upright riding position. This is a simple tweak that seasoned riders will appreciate, and can provide a helpful learning experience if it’s your first time on the trail.

As with other elements of the bike, the fork is also lightweight, which makes handling a bit easier to manage

The drivetrain assembly features a 2x9 setup, allowing for low and high shifting at any speed. This is a perfectly reliable option that adds a welcome layer of control for those who want to get the most out of their performance.

That being said, it is a slightly less specialized version than the one found in the road-going bike. This is one area where Trek may not have cut corners, but has instead opted for a less premium setup that shows in what results from the sum of its parts.

The pedals, however, seem to be of higher quality than can be found on other budget bikes. The various pieces will hold up well over time, and offer an easy pedaling experience. This is a positive that may seem simple, but is invaluable while out on the track.

Trek Alpha 1.2 Handling

The lightweight frame does cause some roughness in the ride. It may not absorb all of the shocks and bumps that come from rough terrain, but the ride quality is not diminished in such a way as to render it a miserable experience.

Over calmer terrains, the lighter tires do create a smooth ride. They are 25 millimeters wide, which is narrow by most standards but perfectly serviceable on this bike.

The Alpha 1.2 does accelerate well for its class. Easy pedaling and solid speed control create a fun experience on steady trails and uphill climbs.

The main downside to higher speed is that the brakes leave something to be desired. The brakes are a dual-pivot design, which is nowhere near as effective as hydraulic disc brakes. This is a major pitfall, and can especially cause problems if you have trouble managing your speed on downhill grades.

Overall, however, the handling and ride position does create a balanced seat for the rider. You can be confident in your control of the bike, and in how you can respond to your surroundings.

Trek Alpha 1.2 Ride Quality and Performance

One other complaint related to the ride quality is that the seat can be hard. This component is fairly easy to customize, however, and it may be worth looking into this if you plan to keep this bike for any length of time.

While the lighter tires do make it a capable performer in turns and straights, they can cause some wobble over trickier patches. Use extra caution when going over gravel or rockier areas, as the lighter tires will show their shortcomings if you’re not careful.

Climbing and Descending

It isn’t the fastest climber of the bunch, but it gets the job done. There’s plenty to like about this bike, even if it won’t set any records flying uphill.

What it lacks in uphill speed, it more than makes up for on the downhill push. But as we’ve noted, that’s not always a good thing. Keep your wits about you, and be ready to pay extra attention to brake management so you don’t spin out of control.

Trek Alpha 1.2 Pros and Cons

Trek alpha 1.2 pros.

The Alpha 1.2 makes the most of its Trek brand reputation, and leans heavily into the components it has built its name upon.

It is a lighter bike than others at higher price points, with the trademark aluminum frame that Trek is known for.

Setting the handlebars in a more straight configuration may turn away some trail-riding veterans, but this can lend itself to a stable and reliable ride for those who need to log more hours on the trail.

The acceleration is reliable enough, and the ride position will make anyone comfortable on straight tracks and uphill climbs.

• Brand reputation and overall quality
• Light weight
• Aluminum frame
• Straight handlebars
• Reliable acceleration
• Solid handling and comfortable riding position

Trek Alpha 1.2 Cons

The Trek Alpha 1.2 does come at an affordable price point, but it does follow that the components and build quality will be slightly lower than other bikes.

The drivetrain is less specialized, and while that may not mean much to some, it can turn away other riders who may want that level of control.

It does feature a rougher ride due to its lighter weight, and the lighter tires also take away some stability. It may be fine on steady tracks, but when the going gets tough you may want to think about upgrading in certain areas.

One area you don’t want to skimp on when upgrading this bike is the brakes. Look into how you can best fix this shortcoming by choosing new brakes after purchasing, or decide if it’s worth choosing a different bike altogether.

• Lower overall quality when compared to premium models
• Less specialized drivetrain
• Rougher ride due to lighter frame
• Lighter tires are less stable
• Braking leaves much to be desired

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About THE AUTHOR

Danny Lawson

Mountain biking is more than just a hobby for me - it's a way of life. I love the challenge and excitement that comes with it, and I'm always pushing myself to go faster and ride harder. Some people might think that mountain biking is dangerous, but I see it as the only way to live.

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About PedalChef

PedalChef is a blog on all things cycling. We are a group of people who love bikes, and we want to share the joy that comes with the experience. You can read more about us here .

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Trek 2.3 WSD Pro Review

• Frame - Trek Alpha Black aluminum w/TCT carbon stays
• Fork - Bontrager Race, carbon
• Wheels - Bontrager Race
• Tires - Bontrager Race Lite, 700 x 23c
• Groupset - Shimano 105 (w/an Ultegra Rear Derailleur)
• Brakes - Aluminum dual-pivot
• MSRP - $1809

• Reasonable weight
• Well built frame
• Nimble road manners
• Stable steering geometry
• Great proportional sizes for women riders
• Bars and controls well scaled for a feminine hand
• Easy shifting Ultegra rear derailleur
• Choose between tasteful silver and cute spearmint color schemes
• Choose a compact double or road triple crank
• Really comfortable saddle
• Lots of throw to shift front derailleur
• Brake caliper flex and modulation
• Noticeable road chatter

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Anonymous407

Hi I have been looking at this bike for my wife and she actually rode it yesterday. She's not sure about size. She is 5' 2.5" and is looking at the 47 or 50cm. I see in your review you rode the 47, how tall are you? Any input would be appreciated Thanks Kurt  

Anonymous408

If your wife is 5'2 and looking at a 47 or 50 cm bike she may be looking at way to big of a bike. I'm ~ 5'2.5" and I ride a 43 cm bike (TREK 1000). I'm a bit long in the torso (but not ridiculously so). Have you gone to your local bike store to try on some different bikes? Small bikes can be really hard to find (Richmond VA had exactly 2 in my size when I started looking- fortunately I moved to Madison, Wi which has a much larger bike culture and selection). I would recommend calling ahead and seeing what they have in stock. I found my bike because a store had nothing to fit me and the owner called around town and gave me a list of bikes and where they were in stock. I think everyone I know who has a really short road bike has a TREK, LeMond, or a Giant - but we're poor and that only covers the entry level market.  

It's a great bike to get if you are not sure if you will stick to cycling; it's not expensive and comes in eight different sizes and two chainset combinations. A very good first bike with class. The Trek 2.3 frame is made of 6000 series aluminum which gives strength, rigidity and lightness and will not break the bank. The equipment is a mix of Shimano Ultegra and 105 with 10 speed shifter and a choice of either a compact or triple chainset.  

Anonymous409

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PBOC keeps one-year medium-term lending facility rate steady at 2.5% to aid economic recovery

People’s Bank of China kept the rate on CNY 100 billion worth of one-year policy loans to some financial institutions, known as the medium-term lending facility rate at 2.5% during its April fixing, as widely expected.

With CNY 170 billion worth of MLF loans set to expire this month, the central bank drained a net CNY 70 billion of cash from the banking system, the second straight month of withdrawals. 

The move comes amid efforts to prioritize the stability of the yuan, at a time the local currency is facing renewed depreciation pressure. 

The decision to hold policy rates and drain liquidity comes after recent outlook for China.

ETFs: ( FXI ), ( KWEB ), ( CQQQ ), ( MCHI ), ( ASHR ), ( YINN ), ( TDF ), ( CHIQ ), ( GXC ), ( EWH ), ( KBA ), ( YANG ), ( CXSE ), ( CAF ), ( CWEB ), ( PGJ ), ( KURE ), ( CHIX ).

Currency:  ( CNY:USD )

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Trek 1.2 Road Bike

New for 2008 •Frame - Alpha White Aluminum •Fork - Bontrager Approved, carbon •Wheels - Alloy hubs; Alex alloy rims w/eyelets •Crank - Bontrager Sport 50/39/30 •Rear Derailleur - Shimano Sora •Sizes - 43, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62cm •Color - Metallic Black, Pearl White

• USER REVIEWS

light, great geometry

A little twitchy. I'd go for a little bigger bar but that's just personal opinion.

Bought mine a month and a half ago - this bike is a great replacement for my 9 yr old Orbea Larrau. I immediately uprated from the Claris default (8spd) to Tiagra group set (10 Spd), changed BB, adjusted the spacers and been a happy roadie since. I am queasy with the Bontrager rubbers, so I am in the market for Continental Gatorskin but other than that, this one all considered is a keeper.

Minimal frame flex under load. Corners well. Climbs and descends well. Comfortable geometry

Wheels/hubs/spokes. Sora/Sram mash-up drivetrain is adequate but wears out quickly. Pretty heavy. Tall head tube

Purchased the bike in summer 2013. I have never seriously ridden a road bike until I purchased this one. Been a MTB guy since I can remember. But, this bike has been everything I've needed and converted me from a dirt man to a roadie. Now, I ride and occasionally race this set up. But beware, there are some weaknesses. The no-name wheels are crap. Broken spokes, seized hubs, shot bearings etc. Had no idea how bad the wheels were until I performed a spin test contrasted with a set up on a low end Specialized allez and rode a low-end shimano set. Next, the low end Shimano/Sram drivetrain is a let down. I've replaced the cassette twice, the chain twice, and the bottom bracket once. Had I known better, I would've purchased the 2.1 with shimano 105. Over all though, I am very pleased. I easily keep up with or lead all the group rides I'm on with the bike. The other riders ride anything from new Madone 6 and 7 series, Sworks Tarmacs, Boardman 9.9 slr, and supersix evo hi-mods. With a couple upgrades, this bike will enable ANY rider to be their best. Frame never let's me down, easily climbing and descending grades pushing 25 to 30%. In summation, if you buy this bike and upgrade the wheels, you'll have miles of fun.

Price, saddle, cranks, forks

Wheels, bottom bracket

I bought the 2013 model in September of 2012. I've put just over 8000 miles on this bike since. If you're looking for an entry level road bike, the Trek 1.2 is perfect, but I'd recommend at least going up to the 2.1 or one with 105 components. This year I've replaced the saddle with a paradigm, I've also replaced the rear wheel. The stock rear hub wore out, and I had broken 3 spokes. I've also replaced the bottom bracket recently, keeping in mind that I've racked up over 8000 miles. Next season I plan on upgrading to a higher end bike, but will still keep this one around. It's got great maneuverability, climbs well, and handles lots of different road conditions with ease. This bike easily turned me into a road cyclist.

light weight, carbon fork, great handling, very capable bike

drive train components, bottom bracket

I have about 200 miles on the bike so far. The bike is very light, rides well, handles great. Riding position is good. I have grown accustomed to the seat which was painful the first week or two. From day one the drive chain made some noise in the upper gear ranges. Gradually it got bad enough that I took it in to LBS. They adjusted the front derailer and replaced the bottom bearing that had failed. Got it back and it ran flawlessly right up until the chain snapped in two. I am hopeful the components will be more reliable going forward. When everything is working it's a wonderful bike to ride. In retrospect I probably would have gotten something with better driveline components.

Great Price, handles really well, easily upgradable and little to no mainteneance required to keep the bike going.

Components, components and components, shifting is not set up for racing and brakes are weak

When I bought this bike back in 2009 I acutally thought I was buying a mid/average road bike. After riding an old Steel GIANT and an even heavier GMC, this bike was like a dream come true. But after doing all the research, I couldn't believe this was acutally considered just a recreational bike, not even close to a Madone or even used in the same breath as a "Racing Bike", yes on various occasions during my rides, I've been able to keep up with guys that own Madones from the 3s to the 6s. When these guys find out what I'm riding, they're not only in shock but a bit angered considering they spent thousands on thier bikes knowing that my under a $1,000 dollar bike is keeping up with these guys. So am I satisfied with this bike, you better believe it! Great bike for the price and I can keep up with the best of them! Makes no sense to spend any more cash except for the occasional upgrades....

Saddle, Crankset, Bang for buck deal

None that i have found except low quality components

Well, the only reason this bike got 4 stars out of 5 on value rating is because i could go to bikes direct.com and buy a bike for the same price and have full carbon ultegra. But i didnt, and it wasnt a mistake. This bike is a dream for me, being only 14 when i got it in july of last year, i put over 2000 miles on it before the end of september. everyone should have this bike.... ive trained on it and it has never given me trouble, ive raced it in sprint triathlons and 68 and 38 mile road races, and it has never fell short of my expectations.:) Hope you found this helpful

fast, lite, good shifter, altought its onle a shimano sora, but works great. pro tour geometry and triple rings to get me climbing on a stiffer road with minimal effort.

the best road bike for the money. protour geometry. same stance with the upper level madone 0nly on the relaxed side. The 1.2 weights 21.0 lbs. whereas the madone 5.2 goes to 16.0 costing thousands more. durable with no problem. Just try to get used to ride on it, and learn how to shift it well and you get the best bike ever. Some people complai of the pedals, seat and shifting gears. just minor tweeks and you get a lower end madone. guaraneed.

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cervelo, bianchi and pinarello dogma

frame, handling and durability

components, but hey what do you expect from that price range. its all sora/tiagra mix . im giving an overall rating of 4 because of the components other than that amazing bike!

i bought this bike in 2010. To be honest as a first road bike i can say it performs well. i cant compare it to others, but its a good ride for the price and it handlles well. I push this bike far beyond its limits and i think is a fantastic first bike and would reccomend it to anyone.

A good overall design and value. Racer class bike? no A good basic bike for the average rider at a reasonable price? yes A perfect bike? there is no such thing. you will find modifications you'll want to make to suit your taste- but that is part of the sports reward- make your bike yours. If you don't have the ability,then find or make a friend that does. Your local bike shop is one of the best sources of help you can find. Do they make money from your habit? yes-but compare thier labor rates to your local car repair center-and they are a good (dare I say cheap)deal. I have only changes the pedals to clipless up to this point, and find the bike works weel they way it was built.

none I've found yet. keep your expectations in line with the purchase price and you will find the value in your purchase

2010 model year bike - I was pleasantly surprised how effecient this bike is. some comments about shifters and seats are more a matter of personal taste than true function. The other bike I ride is a big $$ european ride w/campagnolo super record 11 groupo, that has the ergo shifters on it. I have issues with my hand/finger dexterity that shows up after 25 miles of riding or so(carpal-tunnel type issues), and the shimano sti levers I was using worked great,but aggrivate my physical limitations.I purchased the campy group to help my problem and was very happy with the way they worked-BUT I'm not thrilled about using the high tech bike in the winter. So I purchased a trek 1.2 to use in the winter- the Sora shifters mimic the campy design, and honestly worked much better than I ever expected them to. A hard seat? not by my standards, but if you are new to street biking then you might like something cushier, but as time goes on you will find your self moving back to a stiffer saddle as you become more acclimated to the sport. Weak brakes? no they dont have disc brake power,but they are more than acceptable for the intended user group.Tires? no issues,work fine and ride comfortably- keep PSI around 90/95 and you shouldn't have issues. The front derailler does rub a smidgen,but only in the most extreme cases of cross chaining-meaning all the way up on the rear wheel(largest sprocket) while being all the way out on the front chain ring(largest)- the extreme chain misalaignment causes the chain to rub on the derailler cages, so just shift to the middle front ring,and come down from the biggest gear on the rear to a more centered sprocket,which would give the a similar gear ratio, and the issue goes away. Frankly my campy equipped bike will do the same thing, particularily since it has 11 gears on the rear wheel -cross chaining is just a no-no on any bike if you can help it. I came back from my 1st ride with my son remarkably pleased with the bikes performance, and I even commented as to why we will spend 7x more for a high tech version, but if you own a high grade bike you already know the answer to that question.Should you spend more on a new bike? If you have the budget it always pays to buy as much as you can afford, but if you are looking to be more budget conscious, not spend more than you have to, then I'd say this is a great place to start. If you feel the need to upgrade, then feel free to do so- thats part of the fun of cycling in my opinion.

trek 1200 raleigh supercouse Ridley Excaliber santa cruz raodster

fairly light, fast, good handling

knock on bottom bracket/cranks on first 30 minnutes of use..

2010 Trek 1.2. Bike is 21.2 Lbs as per my hanging scale. Good handling, fast. However on my first use. the cranks/bottom bracket started to knock. Very disappointing.. I have an 2010 gian rapid 3 for my wife and never had any quality issues

Giant Rapid

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