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Tire pressures Voyager 1700

Moderators: the2knights , Highway Rider

Post by wolfman46 » Sat Oct 26, 2013 4:06 pm

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Re: Tire pressures Voyager 1700

Post by David (N. Alabama) » Sun Oct 27, 2013 1:48 am

Post by wolfman46 » Sun Oct 27, 2013 11:03 pm

Post by David (N. Alabama) » Mon Oct 28, 2013 2:07 am

wolfman46 wrote: Thank you for the response and what kind of mileage have you gotten from the Bridgestone tires, and did you install the suspension kit yourself and if you did, what is very involved? Again Thank You

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Tire Pressure

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2011 Vulcan Vaquero 1700. I'm a few feathers shy of 200 pounds, and I've been running my tire pressure at 30 pounds/ 40 pounds. I seem to get better gas mileage when I run with higher tire pressure. Would this be sacrificing safety for gas mileage, though? What pressure do you run at, and why?  

Old Bear

All other variables the same, more pressure equals less tire contact with the ground, less flex in the sidewall and a stiffer ride. You get better mileage because there is less rolling resistance due to less contact with the ground. Only you can find that "happy place" of pressure where you are satisfied with the firmness and handling. Those are the numbers that I am running and I've been happy with it.  

I run 40psi in the front and 41psi in the rear. Any thing in the 38psi (front) and down makes the front end wobble, and cups the front tire like crazy. I also don't like the way the bike handles overall with the frame stated tire pressures. I've never had a problem with the traction of the front or rear. I'm not a floor board dragger but I don't drive it like a car either. On the tires I run; front Dunlop Elite 3 and a Dunlop American Elite rear, the maximum tire pressure as stated on the sidewall is 41psi front and 42psi rear. I've always ran close to the maximum amount and have gone well over 1/2 million miles without a problem. You will find though that this topic is a little like oil, dark side, politics and religion. Lots of people have lots of different opinions. This is just my opinion for what it's worth.  

Strompilot

I've been running the tire pressures as printed on the sidewall for years, now, and have never experienced any traction issues due to a "smaller" tire footprint. The size of that contact patch isn't significantly reduced in size by adding a few pounds of air pressure to the tires. These pressures were recommended by reps from both Metzeler and Dunlop a few years back. Reasons given were handling and safety, mostly safety as a tire with less air pressure will have more sidewall flex resulting in not only poorer handling, but greater heat buildup due to the inner belts flexing and rubbing as the forces act on the tire. The trade off is a slightly harsher ride, although the ride difference between, say, 32 psi and 40 psi would hardly be noticed unless you have a truly crappy suspension. The other plus is longer tire tread life and less cupping. As expensive as tires are these days, I'd want mine to last as long as possible, but without overstepping the bounds of safety.  

The tire pressure printed on the sidewall is a maximum tire pressure, is it not? It wouldn't seem logical to be running at that pressure to me?  

I have been running stock tires or the excedra Bridgestones which are supposed to have a different compound in them for "extended" life. I've read through so many tire threads and for me it comes down to, how does the bike ride and handle. There are many tire pioneers out there that have reported less than favorable ride reviews with other brands particularly with the front tire. I'll trade some tread life for ride quality all day, otherwise I'd just mount up two (you know whats) As far as pressure I go just a little firmer than the book says. 28 in the front and 38-40 in the rear (depending on if I'm carrying someone) I've had decent results and ride quality with that.  

Roadie

When I still was running the stock Bridgestone tires on my 2011 Vaquero, the dealer service manager said that the factory recommended tire pressure for the front tire was WAY OFF, as he put it. He suggested that I run at least 36psi in the front tire and 42psi and the rear tire. I did that and it improved the handling of the bike considerably, but they still wore out way to quick for me. After 15,000 miles and going through two rear stock tires and one front, I have switched to Command IIs and am running 36 & 42 in them too. They handle well for me, no vibrations, run well on all types of road surfaces and conditions to hot and dry to wet and cold and after 10,000 miles on them, they still look only half worn.  

Good comments from everyone. For what it's worth, running at 30/40 I've never experienced any vibrations - and I've got a medical condition called "Heavius Throttilus". I guess after reading everything here I'd consider 30/40 to be the minimum, and adding a few pounds common practice.  

An tire rep told me to check my presure cold. After riding a few miless check the pressure again. If it rose more than 4 PSI then the tire may have been flexing too much and creating a lot of damaging heat. Increase the cold temp (Do not excede max temp)and recheck the hot temp. I found 39 front and 41 rear is the point where my two temps are not too far apart. It seemed strange the hot temp would be 45 whether I started at 36 or 41. rides well and tires wear much better.  

Incidentally, I think the stock tires on the Vulcans are junk--rim protectors. I had to replace the tires on my wife's 900LT at 5400 miles. The rear was nearly bald and no longer round, and the front tire wasn't far behind. Both run at the pressures shown on the sidewall. The same was for my 1700 Nomad. I sold the Nomad, but she still has her 900 with the Metzelers I put on it. 5000 miles later and they look nearly brand new. Running 40 front/41 rear.  

twowheeladdict

That's because you were running the wrong tire pressures for the weight of the bikes. There are guys who have reported getting over 10,000 miles out of the OEM tires. I changed mine on the Voyager at 7000 miles, but that was because I had a cross country trip and didn't want to risk having to change them away from home. Sent the front one to a friend in need of a tire and he got another 5000 out of the front. The rear finally ended up at the recycle center because I didn't want to bother with the labor to put it back on for a few thousand miles.  

I run 41 in both front and rear E3's, no issues or wabble.....  

c_law23

Ok, so for the sake of not starting a new thread I'll ask here. What is the easiest way to check the tire pressure on the Vaquero or bagger style bike? My last bike didn't have hard bags or a dual front rotor. I find myself pretty much sitting on the ground to get air in the rear tire and I have to be a contortionist to check the pressure with a standard tire gauge and my large hands. I imagine it would take something with a flexible tube and attached gauge kind of like the progressive shock pump. I don't have much of a garage type area so my choices on air compressors are pretty much nil. I have a portable tank but usually just fill up my tires at gas stations which makes this whole experience even more inconvenient. Thanks for any input.  

Get a nice quality dial gauge with flexible hose. You can put an angled valve on the front tire at you next change if you want to. I put a pad on the ground to kneel on when I check the pressure. The other option is to unbolt the side bag, but who wants to go through that trouble.  

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vulcan voyager tire pressure

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Vulcan 900 Tire Pressure

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Hi Eveybody: I'm new to this forum but not new to motorcycling. Just picked an 09 Vulcan 900 and love it. But, I noticed my owner's manual says the psi front and back should be 28. However, when I picked it up from the dealer the tires were inflated to 41psi which is the max on the side of my Dunlops. It rides real well at that pressure but I don't want any safety issues related to overinflated tires. Your thoughts would be appreciated. BTW, I live in Denver, CO and also have a Ninja and Triumph. Thanks Steve  

Hi Steve: I have an 08 900 classic and have been riding with 40psi front and back for two years in the stock Dunlops. I have 6k miles on them and very little sign of wear. I've not had an issue. My guess is the dealer sets it at 28 to soften the ride. This may also shorten the life of the tires. At different times on this forum the advice has been to run at or close to the maxium spec of the tire mfgr. Welcome to the forum. Ken  

28# is not only incorrect but dangerous. For the Custom it's 41F and 36-40R depending on load. I run 41F and 38R. Inflation numbers should also be on the left swingarm.  

kws9999 said: Hi Steve: I have an 08 900 classic and have been riding with 40psi front and back for two years in the stock Dunlops. I have 6k miles on them and very little sign of wear. I've not had an issue. My guess is the dealer sets it at 28 to soften the ride. This may also shorten the life of the tires. At different times on this forum the advice has been to run at or close to the maxium spec of the tire mfgr. Welcome to the forum. Ken Click to expand...

My original Dunlops on a 900 Classic I ran at 40 rear/ 36 ft. Put 9,000 miles on them and they still had a couple of mm left on them. If you go out to the Dunlop website you will see that is pretty much what they recommend.  

rod2625 said: My original Dunlops on a 900 Classic I ran at 40 rear/ 36 ft. Put 9,000 miles on them and they still had a couple of mm left on them. If you go out to the Dunlop website you will see that is pretty much what they recommend. Click to expand...

Thanks everybody, I've reinflated all my bike tires. Steve  

I run my 900 with its stock Dunlops at 28, this is what is recommended in the handbook and on the Dunlop UK site and by my dealer. No problems and getting very good tyre life  

ricksza

If you run Dunlop tires, I would check with Dunlop Tire Web Site in the fitment area for exact recommended pressure by Dunlop. As the manufacturer, I think they would know best.  

I run my 900 with its stock Dunlops at 28, this is what is recommended in the handbook and on the Dunlop UK site and by my dealer. No problems and getting very good tyre life Click to expand...

I looked at their site two years ago when I got the bike from new because so many or our American cousins were going on about increasing the tyre pressure. My handbook says 28 as did the Dunlop site at the time and I have discussed it with my main Kawi dealer who say to follow the handbook. They did point out that there may be differences in US road surfaces and that the average rider would be a lot heavier than a European one. I have had no handling issues at all, two up, loaded with camping gear its performance is great and the tyre wear is very good.  

I would think that turn in at that low of a psi would be slow. I personally play with different psi's to find the right one for me. The 1600 asks for less than the 41 psi that I run at, but that is what makes the bike handle the way I like it to.  

I personally run 38 front, 35 rear. '08 900 Custom, and I got 10k (barely) miles out of my stock Dunlops before switching to Metz.  

Spaceprobe said: I looked at their site two years ago when I got the bike from new because so many or our American cousins were going on about increasing the tyre pressure. My handbook says 28 as did the Dunlop site at the time and I have discussed it with my main Kawi dealer who say to follow the handbook. They did point out that there may be differences in US road surfaces and that the average rider would be a lot heavier than a European one. I have had no handling issues at all, two up, loaded with camping gear its performance is great and the tyre wear is very good. Click to expand...

We are probably uglier as well (think the old ugly american crap). 28 psi is not good. dosent matter if you got it from a manual, it is still waaaaay to low.  

Vulkin' said: 28 psi is not good. dosent matter if you got it from a manual, it is still waaaaay to low. Click to expand...
Spaceprobe said: This is where I got confused when I first got me bike because so many of you said to up the psi. My bike handles like a dream and the dealer feels the pressure should be kept at 28. I would have thought that Kawi's R&D department went into all of this before printing 28 in the handbook. On my visits to the US I do notice that you seem to have a wide range of different road surfaces compared to us and sadly the average American does tend to be heavier than us (good old McDonald's) Click to expand...

From the Metzler site.... Metzeler North America has found the air pressure suggestions listed below will improve mileage and customer satisfaction especially if a emphasis is placed on running the air pressure towards the maximum as stated on the sidewall . Check cold tire pressures frequently. Correct tire pressure is crucial for safe handling. Over inflation may impair ride comfort and reduce the contact patch between the tire and driving surface of the tires. Insufficient air pressure will result in poor handling and cause a tendency for the motorcycle to "wander". In addition, improper and insufficient tire will cause accelerated tire wear, increased fuel consumption, less control and the possibilities for tire failure to due an overload/under inflated operating situation. From the Dunlop site: As the world leader in motorcycle tires, Dunlop continues to be concerned about the lack of attention paid by many cyclists to proper use and maintenance of their tires, particularly when fitted to motorcycles intended for touring. Dunlop technical personnel have attended touring rallies all over North America to collect vital data and give instructional seminars. What we have observed at these rallies alarms us; many touring riders are not following proper tire maintenance procedures. The requirements for proper tire usage are not complicated, but they do require consistent attention. Owners and operators of motorcycles should closely monitor vehicle loadings to insure they are within the maximum loads and corresponding inflation pressures for their tires. This basic load and pressure information is clearly stamped on the tire sidewalls. The tire does not support the load-the air pressure does. The manufacturer's ratings for the maximum load and inflation pressure are critical tire design elements. If not observed, the handling and performance of your motorcycle will be greatly affected. We have checked inflation pressures at several touring rallies and found a high percentage of rear tires to be underinflated. In addition, weight checks of the rear axles of these motorcycles indicated a number of tires were loaded beyond maximum capacity. Our inspections have not been limited to those cycles fitted with Dunlop tires; the situation exists for all brands of tires. Regardless of the make of tire, this is a serious problem. Riders of motorcycles with significantly underinflated and overloaded tires will experience handling and steering difficulty. In addition, this abuse will result in disappointing premature tire wear and may cause catastrophic tire failure. The addition of accessories, cargo, and dual riding to touring motorcycles aggravates the problems of overloading and underinflation. The excessive flexing that results from underinflation or overload causes buildup of internal heat, fatigue cracking and eventual carcass breakup resulting in complete failure. A consequence of such failure may be an accident with serious personal injury or death. The appearance of stress cracks in the tread grooves is one indicator of overload and/or underinflation. If you find evidence of tread groove cracking, you should remove and replace the tire immediately. This damage is permanent and non-repairable. Our inspection of tires of various style and manufacture at rallies and our subsequent testing have confirmed that underinflation (and/or excessive load) causes tread groove cracking and can result in more serious damage within the tire body. Uneven wear may also accompany underinflated use. Failure to heed these visual warnings can result in tire failure or blowout. The use of trailers can also contribute to tire damage and touring motorcycle instability. Although most motorcycle manufacturers recommend against their use, a percentage of the motorcycles we have inspected were so equipped. The trailer tongue weight added to an already heavily laden motorcycle can fail a rear tire. The percentage of overloaded motorcycle rear tires found during our inspection would have been higher if trailer tongue weight had been considered. The forces of rapid acceleration and deceleration may also multiply the effects of trailer tongue weight. To get the maximum safe use out of your tires and maximum touring enjoyment you should: Properly maintain all aspects of your vehicle in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations. Read and reread your motorcycle owner's manual. Never exceed the loading and accessories restrictions found in your motorcycle owner's manual, or the maximum load displayed on the tire sidewalls. Know your loaded vehicle weight! Check air pressure at frequent, regular intervals, particularly just before and during long trips. Always use an accurate tire gauge* and check pressures only when the tires are cold (i.e., wait one hour after running). We have found many cheap gauges to be off more than 5 psi, so be sure to use a top quality gauge and preferably one that retains the pressure reading until reset! Inspect your tires as often as possible. Look for irregular wear, any signs of cracking in the sidewalls and tread, blisters, knots, cuts or punctures. Immediately remove and replace damaged tires. If in doubt, ask your motorcycle tire dealer to check your loading, inflation and tires. Remember, your tires stand between you and a serious accident. For touring motorcycle loading, follow these general guidelines: Light loads-single rider with some luggage (up to 200 lb. total)-minimum tire pressure of 32 psi front and 36 psi rear must be maintained. Heavier loads-dual riding and/or luggage (from 200 lb. total up to maximum motorcycle capacity stated in the owner's manual)-pressure of 36 psi front and 40 psi rear must be maintained. Please Note: For any dual riding or fully loaded use, 40 psi must be maintained in all Dunlop rear tires fitted to touring motorcycles. In addition to following these recommendations, notice what your tires are telling you while you're riding. If your steering response is slow or mushy, or if cornering and braking response is heavy, there's a good chance your tires are underinflated. Vibration or wobble may signal that actual tire damage has occurred and failure is imminent! If you conscientiously follow our recommendations, you will enjoy better, longer, and safer tire performance and many, many miles of touring pleasure. R. Todd and by the way......pump em up. For my wife's 900 I inflate to 38F and 40 rear. It is in my opinion much safer at these levels.  

Thank you very much!  

When I start off on a different bike I inflate tires to max. pressure shown on the sidewall...I then lowerthe pressure in each tire 1# at a time until the steering starts to feel heavy or mushy ,the rear will start to get squirmy too...add a couple of pounds and note not to go below that figure..Then I play with pressures within that range until the bike feels right...most of the time pressures will come out a little below max on each end if the tires are properly sized..A good competition tire gauge is necessary...  

sketso said: The R&D department also recommends a belt tension that's too high and has been known to cause problems with internals and rear sprocket wobble. They also recommend 7500 miles between oil changes, which any self respecting mechanic will laugh at. THEN, they went and put those nasty Dunlop tires on the bike... Sorry, I don't trust the R&D department, as their lab tests don't seem to be able to duplicate real life conditions in many instances, even if I *am* a fat American riding on country roads. Click to expand...

SpaceProbe, Your dealer is full of manure. We are not wasting out money by changing the oil more frequently than you are saying is common over the pond, we are aware that oil serves two functions one of which is cleansing the engine. I change out every 4000 miles. I do it myself. You should too so you can see what oil out of a high shear MC engin/trans looks like after just 4000 miles. Yes, you can choose to wait. Are you killing the bike? Probably not, but you are making it experence more friction and wear than I am and logic says my stuff will last longer. About the tire. Why are those of you who beleive in slavishly following an obviously wrong manual so distrustful of the people who make the tires in question. Not a one of them (tire manufaturers) reccomends and in fact cautioins against the type pressures that Kaw puts in its manuals. Kaw happens to be wrong and are also not the experts on tire pressure. That honor falls to the tire companies. Ya gonna go to a podiatrist for a heart attack or a cardiologist? I'm not saying that the podiatrist would not have some good health info but if we are talking hearts Im listning to the heart doc. Same applies here. Just Sayin'  

Vulkin' said: SpaceProbe, You should too so you can see what oil out of a high shear MC engin/trans looks like after just 4000 miles. Yes, you can choose to wait. Are you killing the bike? Probably not, but you are making it experence more friction and wear than I am and logic says my stuff will last longer. Click to expand...

One more crack one the low tire pressure recommendation. I am not a heavy guy. Im all of 170 (wet). I sure as heck dont want my tires mushin out at 28PSI. And did I say I'm American and weigh 170. You can kindly read that as a irritated American tired of being called fat by a country that is just as fat azzed as we are (and I like Brits).  

Under-inflated tires make a bike wallow like a whale. They also wear unevenly (cup) and wear out much faster. It's been a long time since I followed bike manufacturers' recommendations. OTOH, the tire itself is plainly marked. A couple PSI lower than max has been best for me. What Kawasaki says on this subject is so laughably wrong it's hard to imagine their reasoning. [EDIT] With respect, try riding a bike with tires inflated as MOM suggests on poor/uneven roads and the phrase "wallow like a whale" will take on new meaning. If one rides on perfect roads exclusively, the sub-par handling is less noticeable.  

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2011 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Vaquero Review - Motorcycle.com

Pete Brissette

The company discovered that riders looking to move up from smaller cruisers to a larger model aren’t necessarily interested in or ready for full touring boats, like the Vulcan Voyager, Harley-Davidson ’s Electra Glide models or H-D’s Road Glide Ultra.

Of course, the Vaquero is also crafted as a bike with an appeal all its own, drawing in riders that don’t always have a cruiser background – like ZX-14 owners. Long says these riders are part of the Vaquero’s demographic, as they look either to switch two-wheeled genres or further expand the type of mounts they ride.

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com, 2011 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Vaquero This latest bike to join the big bore Vulcan lineup is Kawasaki s step into what is known as the bagger cruiser segment Other bikes in this category include Harley Davidson s Street Glide Road Glide Custom and Victory s Cross Country to name just a couple

And, naturally, with this latest Vulcan, Kawasaki hopes to woo riders from other cruiser brands as well.

During the Vaquero’s recent press launch in Montgomery, Texas, an hour or so north of Houston, Kawasaki staff didn’t specifically say the intent was to get in on the growing bagger sub-segment with the Vaquero, but more often referred to it as the next-step bike mentioned above.

Regardless of how much candor Team Green was willing or able to speak with on this matter of entering the realm of Harley’s Road Glide Custom and Street Glide models, Victory ’s Cross Country and Star ’s Stratoliner Deluxe, the fact is, with the Vaquero, Kawasaki has beat Honda and Suzuki to the lucrative bagger market.

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com, The Vaquero s styling is undeniably influenced by Harley s Road Glide Custom However Kawi adds various touches to the Vaquero s looks like the Candy Fire Red bike s color matched headlight trim and color matched inner fairing in an effort to set the Vaquero apart from its competition

To give you a sense of how important this part of the cruiser world is, Harley-Davidson says (without revealing any sales figures) the Street Glide is its top-selling model. Perhaps Honda and Suzuki don’t currently have any designs on the bagger game, but it would seem a wise move to join the party.

Another steel horse in the Vulcan stable

At its core the Vaquero is a Vulcan 1700. The latest V bike in Kawi’s big cruiser lineup shares its 1700cc (103.7 c.i.) liquid-cooled, SOHC, four-valve-per-cylinder, 52-degree V-Twin engine carried in a steel-tube cradle-type frame basic platform with its Vulcan Classic, Vulcan Nomad and Vulcan Voyager/ABS stablemates.

Changes to the 1700cc Twin unique to the Vaquero for 2011 include a new second piston ring for “improved durability,” and in the interest of weight reduction the lower primary chain guide was eliminated. Also specific to the Vaquero is a new first-gear ratio said to reduce shifting noise when clicking from neutral to first. Revised cogs for third and fourth gear also work to smooth out shifting action while reducing clatter from the gearbox.

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com, A lot of external components that would usually have chrome surfaces get the black out treatment on the Vaquero Although the Vaquero s 1700cc V Twin is largely the same engine as its Vulcan 1700 mates use a few tweaks were given to the Vaquero s powerplant

Kawasaki noted that most Vulcan fans are satisfied with how the engine sounds and performs, but some riders with a touring bent requested a reduction of the noises generated when shifting gears. Finicky lot.

The Vaquero employs the same type of damper-less clutch found in the Vulcan Classic, which Kawasaki says gives the rider an increased feel for the engine, or a “higher torque feel.”

However, a cush drive damper remains in the rear hub. Absence of a clutch damper ostensibly gives the Vaquero “more character.” The Voyager and Nomad retain the clutch damper in order to help reduce some of the sensation of the engine’s power pulses.

According to Long, perceiving the increased engine feel in the Vaquero is likely to depend on the rider and/or the type of riding.

He gave an example of when he and another Kawi employee, both “bigger guys,” immediately noticed the difference between two sample bikes – one with and one without a clutch damper – while riding two-up. Another pair of lighter-weight riders had greater difficulty discerning which bike used the damper-less clutch.

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com, A damper was eliminated from the Vaquero s clutch in order to allow the rider a greater sense of engine feel Minor changes to the transmission were put in place to reduce noises from the gearbox

The unstated premise here is that a touring rig, one carrying a passenger and full up with gear, should better nullify engine shakes, rattles and rolls so as to allow the touring rider a more enjoyable tour, if you will. Kawasaki dubs the Vaquero as the “ultimate solo cruiser with unmatched style, power and comfort.” We might infer from this that a Vaquero customer is perhaps more interested in the bike’s performance quotient and might value the engine’s visceral appeal more than he or she would the highest level possible for comfort.

Is removing a degree of smoothness by design a smart marketing move or something more on the gimmicky side?

Hard to say; but then again, if ultimate comfort was a key motivator of V-Twin sales, every V-Twin engine on the market would likely then employ rubber mounting and all manner of engine counter balancing. Yet plenty of cruiser makers do just the opposite, so there seems some merit in Kawi’s effort to give the rider more feel from the Vaquero’s engine.

On the other hand, the aforementioned tranny revisions aimed at reducing noise and increasing smooth shifting seem in contrast to the intent behind taking out the clutch damper. If Kawi presumes a Vaquero rider may want to feel more in touch with the engine, would that same rider then mind a little clank or clunk from the gearbox?

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com, The few updates to the Vaquero s engine might help some riders feel more connected to the big Twin However Pete found the Vaquero s overall ride about as smooth as possible and for that he was grateful

For what it’s worth, I scale in at an out-of-shape 155 lbs and can’t say I really felt the Vaquero engine’s more rugged nature – just as Long indicated some riders might not.

To the contrary, after a150-plus mile loop the Vaquero’s powerplant struck me as considerably smoother than many of its competitors. Maybe only Harley’s rubber-mounted Twin Cam 96 is slightly smoother, but only when under power. At idle the H-D Twin shudders like a paint shaker. The Kawi Twin is smooth at just about every point, including idle, save for some low-resonating vibes around 70 mph when in the rather tall and overdriven 6th gear (5th is also overdriven).

There is, however, enough vibe and rumble from the Vaquero’s dual-counterbalanced engine to satisfy my tastes. One of the aspects I enjoy most about motorcycling is the mechanical-ness of two wheelers and the sounds and feel associated with them – on that level the Vaquero works just fine.

As exhaust works it way out of the Vulcan engine it passes through the Vaquero’s tapered muffler tips said to reduce exhaust decibel levels (Kawi wasn’t willing to state precise decibel figures) at cruising speeds while also mirroring the rest of the bike’s long, flowing look. Last year’s Voyager and Nomad sported slash cut exhaust tips but for 2011 they also get the tapered treatment.

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com

A new casting mold for the intake manifold is said to increase flow volume for more linear throttle response and improved idle; this update is given to all 1700cc Vulcans. The combination of changes to the intake manifold and exhaust necessitated changes to the ECU, and so all Vulcan 1700s have an updated brain for 2011.

Lastly, the Vaquero’s final drive belt is 2mm narrower, from 28mm to 26mm, for better tracking between the belt’s pulleys and for reduced belt squeal and squeaks.

Ergos on the new Vaquero split the difference between a couple of its Vulcan brothers, for what Kawasaki says is an “expanded rider triangle.” The Vaquero’s floorboards are set in the same position as the Nomad’s, that is, more forward than the other Vulcans, and its all-new, tapered one-piece seat has a lumbar shape – or hump – similar to the Classic’s saddle.

The Vaquero seat is also ready to accept an accessory rider backrest and quick-release passenger backrest, while a separate accessory seat accommodates passengers better than the standard saddle.

The Vulcan Classic still offers the lowest seat height of all 1700 Vulcans at 28.3 inches, while the Vaquero, Nomad and Voyager all have 28.7-inch seat heights. Victory’s Cross Country and Cross Roads boast an even lower 26.25-inch seat height. The Harley Road Glide Custom, a direct competitor to the Vaquero, has a seat height 1.6 inches lower than the touring Vulcans, but it and the Street Glide also have pitifully less rear suspension travel.

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com, The Vaquero s ride comfort agility and ease of use are on par with the Cross Country from Victory

Where the Vaquero offers 3.1 inches of rear travel from its dual shocks with air-adjustable preload and four-way rebound damping (same for all Vulcan 1700s), the Harley’s air-adjustable shocks move a mere 2.0 inches. The Vaquero’s combo of thick seat foam and ample rear suspension travel make for a downright plush ride compared to the often-jolting experience a rider gets from the back half of either Harley ‘Glides.

Accessing the Vaquero’s dual air valves for the shocks is as simple as removing the seat; total pressure range for rear suspension is 0-40 psi. Recommend setting for a 150-lbs rider with empty luggage is 0.0 psi.

For the moto media’s test ride, Kawi techs set the shocks to 15 psi; the setting proved ideal for my 150-ish lbs frame. A Kawi staffer who weighs considerably more (I’ll spare him a guess at his “healthy” weight) said he often rides the Vaquero with the preload set only 5-psi higher.

Victory’s bar-mounted fairing bagger, the Cross Country, has even more rear suspension travel with 4.7 inches, as does the Star Stratoliner Deluxe with 4.3 inches. Reflecting on our recent Bagger Shootout that included the Vic and Star, I can say that despite more rear suspension travel than what the Vaquero has, neither of those bikes provides a significantly more forgiving ride than the Vaquero

The Voyager’s 45mm fork is given to the new Vaquero, while the Vulcan Nomad and Classic have a 43mm unit. Front suspension travel for the Voyager and Vaquero is 5.5 inches – 0.4 inches more than in the 43mm inverted fork on both the Cross Country and Cross Roads.

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com, Some folks might find the louvers flanking the headlight ostentatious but they re replaceable with auxiliary lights same as those on the Vulcan Voyager as part of the Vaquero s robust collection of accessories The Vaquero is prewired and ready to accept the lights as well as many other extras like rider to rider comm 12 volt power port CB etc

The Vaquero’s rather plump-looking 130/90 x 16 Bridgestone Exedra radial front tire appears like it might make for slow steering response; however, the front bun is a good pairing to the 170/70 x 16 rear tire. Neutral handling is a key characteristic of the Vaquero; steering effort is light, with a fluid, linear movement from upright to full lean.

This Vulcan’s claimed curb weight is 836-lbs. That’s 25 lbs more than the Road Glide Custom’s running order weight, and a whopping 41 lbs more than what Star says Strato Deluxe weighs fueled and ready to ride.

The Vaquero’s lean angle clearance isn’t as generous as that of the Victory Cross bikes – few cruisers in this class offer as much as the Vics – but is at worst, average. Standard calipers gripping 300mm discs handle braking, and at this time ABS is only available on the Euro version of the Vaquero. Only the heavier Vulcan Voyager offers optional ABS. Excluding ABS from the Vaquero seems inline with what the rest of the market is doing with baggers that aren’t intended as long-haul tourers.

Styling is elemental to cruiser/bagger design, and the Vaquero’s smooth, flowing lines, from the frame-mounted fairing with color matched inner fairing to the sculpted hardbags weaved into the shape of the tail section, the Vaquero’s look says that form is just as important as function for this Kawasaki.

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com, Locking hardbags are a key element of the Vaquero s style and they work well However styling dictated approximately a 0 5 gallon reduction in storage capacity when compared to bags on the Nomad and Voyager

All is not perfect, unfortunately, as the faux tank strap doesn’t fully disguise its plastic reality; and in a sacrifice to style the Vaquero’s 9.6-gallons-each side loading saddlebags lost about half a gallon of space compared to the Voyager and Nomad’s top-loading bags. The Vaquero’s bags operate with a reassuringly solid-functioning chrome handle/latch.

It’s prudent that the Vaquero’s bags require a key (same as ignition) to open and close so as to prevent your stuff readily dumping out. But the bags’ fixed mounting method, rather than a tool-less and easily removed Dzus fitting like the Harley and Victory use, makes accessing each of the Vulcan shock’s rebound damping adjuster atop the shock body unnecessarily frustrating. You’ll need patience or smallish hands, or both, to reach behind the saddlebags in order tweak the shocks.

Contrary to this lil’ shock access peccadillo is Kawasaki’s thoughtfulness in placing two helmet hooks under the saddle.

The large fairing and almost-not-there, style-conscious 6.0-inch windscreen sufficiently protected my 5-foot 8-inch frame from the wind without excessive buffeting, but taller riders may have a different, less favorable experience. A simple remedy for unwanted windblast is to choose from one of five optional screens ranging from 6.5 inches to 18.0 inches in height.

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com, No this isn t some wacky new ratcheting windscreen for the Vaquero but is a graphic display of the six different available shield heights including the standard short screen

The standard screen and optional 6.5-inch unit are both dark tint; the remaining taller accessory screens are only available in clear.

Speaking of options for the Vaquero, about the only one not on offer is ABS. The Vaquero is otherwise just about as loaded as any bagger comes, with a robust sound system providing AM/FM/WX, and is XM ready – all that’s necessary is the accessory XM module – while the AUX mode on the sound system allows use of an MP3 player via an accessory adapter.

The sound system’s volume/mode and track/station selector switches on the left-side switch gear are joined by a built-in CB function switch that waits patiently for the addition of an optional CB system. Switches for the standard cruise control (also on Voyager and Nomad) are located on the right-hand switch housing. Cruise activates when in 3rd gear or any speeds between 30 and 85 mph.

A rider can increase or decrease cruise speed by as little as 1 mph at a time thanks to the EVT (Electronic Throttle Valve – type of throttle-by-wire) used on the Vaquero as well as on the Nomad and Voyager.

On the subject of adapters and music, the Vaquero’s left-side locking glove compartment is prewired to plug into Kawasaki’s accessory iPod adapter kit that comes with a foam-rubber holder for your iPod. The adapter is pre-molded in the shape of the compartment for a secure fit.

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com, The Vaquero s comprehensive sound system is ready to accept XM radio and music from your iPod after adding necessary accessory adapters The red bike s inner fairing receives a second paint treatment to ensure a smooth glossy finish

Thirty-five accessories are available now with many more in the chute; and when it came time to plan for Vaquero accessories, Kawasaki took a calculated approach to making the bike as plug-n-play as possible.

The bike’s wiring harness has many accessory plugs prewired (like the aforementioned iPod connector plug), and the ability to purchase accessories a la carte allows a consumer a modular path to building exactly the Vaquero they want without committing to extras they aren’t necessarily interested in.

Ride ‘im, cowboy!

Prior to the Vaquero’s launch, the Victory Cross Country arguably provided a whole lot of bang for the buck.

The Vic offers the roomiest saddlebags in the class, a comprehensive sound system, second-largest V-Twin in the class, a stout aluminum frame joined by excellent overall ride quality and comfort, all for $17,999.

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com, On a steel horse I ride The name Vaquero is Spanish for cowboy The Vulcan Vaquero s ergos suited Pete s 5 foot 8 inch frame and 30 inch inseam perfectly

Although the 2011 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Vaquero’s 1700cc engine isn’t quite as big as the Victory’s 1731cc lump, when we lasted dyno tested a Vulcan 1700cc in the Vulcan Classic vs. Triumph Thunderbird comparo, the Vulcan managed 86.3 peak ft-lbs. In our 2011 Bagger Shootout the Victory Cross Country churned out just less than 89 ft-lbs.

We’d expect a little better performance from the Vulcan’s liquid-cooled engine, but then again we’re only talking a deficit of a couple ft-lbs.

Furthermore, the Vulcan’s chassis performance and ride comfort are right there with the Victory. And the Vaquero provides a level of rider entertainment comparable to the Cross Country, including multi-menu access for MP3 players. Standard cruise also matches the Victory.

One of the few areas the Kawasaki comes up short to the Cross Country is hardbag volume. But the Vaquero’s impressive standard three-year warranty with optional warranty add-ons extending base coverage an additional one to three years is a rare offering in the moto world. And the warranty remains in tact if you use Kawasaki accessories.

Star’s Stratoliner Deluxe has the most powerful V-Twin in the segment, but beyond the extra power, and an iPod connector in its batwing fairing, it’s hard to justify the Star’s $17,499 price in the face of the competition.

No question the Vaquero is influenced by the venerable Road Glide Custom from Harley. The bike from Milwaukee is a quality machine and it has an excellent dash, but for now H-D doesn’t offer a plug and play setup for the iPod – something I see as a new standard.

2011 kawasaki vulcan 1700 vaquero review motorcycle com, This Kawasaki cowboy is looking to stir up trouble with all the other baggers in town

Then of course there’s the issue of the Harley RG Custom’s smaller 96 c.i. Twin (good for 80.4 ft-lbs the last time we dyno’d), not-so-great rear suspension, the extra $295 required for cruise control and a class-topping base MSRP of $18,999. In fairness, what Harley does boast over most other brands is typically good resale value.

With the recent addition of Victory’s Cross models, the bagger battle has almost overnight become a war in which a manufacturer must offer the most motorcycle for the least cost – not just the best bike at any cost. Victory sets the bar high in this new paradigm.

But now comes the $16,499 Vulcan Vaquero to meet most of Victory’s standard; a good ol’ fashioned duel ensues. Perhaps the new guy in town might even beat Victory at its own game.

Related Reading 2011 Kawasaki Vaquero Preview 2010 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Voyager Review 2011 Bagger Shootout 2010 Harley-Davidson Road Glide vs. Victory Cross Country 2010 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Classic vs. Triumph Thunderbird 2011 Victory Lineup Reviews All Things Kawasaki on Motorcycle.com All Things Cruiser on Motorcycle.com All Things Touring on Motorcycle.com

Pete Brissette

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COMMENTS

  1. Voyager front tire pressure

    When I first got my Voyager, I had the front tire (the Kawi recommended Bridgestone) at 28 psi cold (which was just below 80° on the day in question) per the manual, and monitored with a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). I was on the highway on a hot day (high 90s) and the front tire temp went up to nearly 150° F.

  2. Vulcan Voyager Front Tire Pressure

    0:00 / 7:00. Dave Moss Tuning. Some thoughts and my experience regarding Kawasaki's recommendation of 28psi for the Voyager's front tire. As stated in the video, my official recommendati...

  3. Tire pressure VN1700

    Denidel Discussion starter. 21 posts · Joined 2020. #1 · Aug 25, 2021. Hi everyone ! I have owned a Vaquero for a few weeks. The manual indicate a recommended pressure of 28psi for the front tire and 36psi for the rear tire (Bridestone tires). Mine is fitted with Michelin Commander II tires.

  4. tire pressure????

    As a very rough approximation, the Vulcan VN900 is about 650 Lbs and for a rough example I'll use a 50/50 front/rear weight distribution. That's 325 Lbs on the front tire and 325 lbs on the rear. - 325 lbs is about 60% of the tires maximum load of 520 Lbs. - 60% of the 42 lbs maximum air pressure is 25.5 lbs.

  5. Voyager front tire pressure

    The Steelmate unit had default threshold set at 36PSI, with alerts triggered 30% (11PSI) either side of that (so high pressure alarm at 47PSI, low pressure alarm at 25PSI). High temp alarm 176°F. That was OK with the 180/65 tire, but the 180/60 kept triggering the high pressure alarm.

  6. Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS)

    Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) Vulcan Nomad/Vaquero/Voyager

  7. Tire pressures Voyager 1700

    10 Current bike (s): 2013 Kawasaki Voyager 1700 Location: Londonderry NH Has liked: 0 Been liked: 0 Tire pressures Voyager 1700 by wolfman46 » Sat Oct 26, 2013 5:06 pm I know what the manual calls for 28 front and 40 rear. I have heard it is better to run much higher pressures, especially front, what are other riders keeping for pressures and why?

  8. Tire Pressure

    When I still was running the stock Bridgestone tires on my 2011 Vaquero, the dealer service manager said that the factory recommended tire pressure for the front tire was WAY OFF, as he put it. He suggested that I run at least 36psi in the front tire and 42psi and the rear tire.

  9. Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 (2009+) Maintenance Schedule

    Tyre size and tyre pressure for the Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 The Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 motorcycles run the following tyre sizes and pressures. It's the same for the Nomad, Voyager, and Classic.

  10. 2022 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Voyager ABS Guide • Total Motorcycle

    The 2022 Vulcan Voyager ABS features a 1,700cc liquid-cooled, fuel-injected, 52-degree V-twin engine, stylish frame-mounted fairing, intercom-headset compatible audio system, and integrated luggage. 2022 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Voyager ABS Totalmotorcycle.com Key Features 1,700cc V-TWIN ENGINE INTEGRATED LUGGAGE

  11. Check Your Tire Pressure Lately?

    In the mean time, here are some ways to monitor your tire pressure without becoming inconvenienced by bending over with an air pressure gauge while near an air pump: 1) Visually inspect your tires. If you can see that a tire is only partially deflated you'll know that you can probably make it through another day.

  12. Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager rear tire change

    Kawasaki Vulcan voyager rear tire replacement

  13. Vulcan® 1700 Voyager® ABS Owner's Manual, VN1700B (2021)

    VULCAN ® 1700 VOYAGER ® ABS. Vehicle Accessories. 2021. VULCAN ® 1700 VOYAGER ® ABS. Vehicle Accessories. Subtotal (0 Items) $0.00. Summary. Check Out. SHOP MORE < BACK TO ACCESSORY RESULTS. Owner's Manual, VN1700B (2021) Item # 99803-0157. MSRP $19.15 SHARE. Limited Quantities AVAILABLE ONLINE. Kawasaki Owner's Manuals include Important Safety Information, Operating Instructions, and ...

  14. Vulcan 900 Tire Pressure

    #1 · Jul 3, 2010 Hi Eveybody: I'm new to this forum but not new to motorcycling. Just picked an 09 Vulcan 900 and love it. But, I noticed my owner's manual says the psi front and back should be 28. However, when I picked it up from the dealer the tires were inflated to 41psi which is the max on the side of my Dunlops.

  15. Tire pressure

    Tire pressure 1500 & 1600 Nomad. Vulcan Bagger Forums > Technical :: Maintenance :: Performance > 1500 & 1600 Nomad > Technical :: Maintenance :: Performance > 1500 ...

  16. 2011 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Vaquero Review

    But now comes the $16,499 Vulcan Vaquero to meet most of Victory's standard; a good ol' fashioned duel ensues. Perhaps the new guy in town might even beat Victory at its own game. Related Reading 2011 Kawasaki Vaquero Preview 2010 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Voyager Review 2011 Bagger Shootout 2010 Harley-Davidson Road Glide vs. Victory Cross Country