A gentleman’s guide to the Parisian members’ club

What happened when one gentleman took to the french riviera....

Words: Edward Cooper

They say this party house was so exclusive that it had a silver bath tub with a third tap that was only used for the litres of bubbly that used to flow through it. Not surprisingly, the Traveller Paris started out as the most decadent address of the 19th Century but now it’s a fantastically well located members club, filled with rooms so full of character that I felt like I was Phileas Fogg.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

My stay there was the start of a two week getaway to the French Riviera and provided the opportunity for a scenic train journey across France. The short few hours on the train from London were punctuated by the animated conversation of French housewives as they debriefed their London experience on their home journey. I somehow doubted that their time in London was as impressive as what I was about to find in their home city.

My destination that evening was the Travellers Paris. Established in 1903 it is now considered as one of the most exclusive members clubs in Paris. With a visitor’s book filled by some of France’s finest businessman and entrepreneurs, it nestles gracefully amongst the hustle and bustle of the Champs-Elysées

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Stepping out of the station and in to the quiet hum of a Parisian evening, I rang the buzzer to a set of large wooden doors and walked off the streets and back in time. An old rickety elevator with those pull-across steel shutter doors carried me to my room. The ancient lift was too cramped for me and my luggage and I was told by the Concierge to shout down for it once I had reached the top so he could send it up.

Out of the seven or so bedrooms, mine was the ‘Les Indes’ , an exceptionally characterful room on the highest floor of the building. Scenes from the Raj of tiger hunts and marauding elephants adorned the walls and through the rounded windows I could just see the top of the Eiffel Tower as its lights swung round like a lighthouse beckoning the world in. The shared bathroom was down a rather long wood-panelled corridor and although ornate, there was no trace of the silver bath tub with its magical third tap for dispensing champagne.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

The Concierge was kind enough to take me on a tour which started with perhaps the clubs most famous feature, the magnificent spiral staircase. Carved in yellow onyx in the style of the Italian Renaissance it is lined with golden statues of the poets Virgil, Dante and Petrarque and leads lavishly up to large and impressively ornate dining rooms. Perhaps the most unique room lay quietly behind a hidden entrance set into the wall. Large doors barred the entrance to the main rooms, each one protected by a golden bust of a maiden expounding words such as fortitudo, nobilitas , gratia and divitiae (just in case you hadn’t got the point yet that this is a really classy place).

Downstairs the club has more of a feel for entertaining guests. There is a long, well stocked bar that lies to the side of the large billiards room and a member’s only area where one gentleman had escaped work to briefly catch up on the tennis at Wimbledon which was playing out in silence on the television.

It was later that evening that I ventured down one of the many streets that branch off the Champs-Elysées to find a local French restaurant that had come well recommended by the Concierge. Inside a quaint façade lay a well-stocked steak house that smelled like a butchers, with massive cuts of beef stacked up behind transparent refrigerator doors barely an arms-length away from the tables they would serve that evening.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

With the morning came the sound of Paris as it warmed up to the week. Breakfast was signalled by a knock and an elderly lady appeared from around the door pushing a trolley covered in a starched white tablecloth. Silverware and fine china adorned the top, making up my continental breakfast in bed. I confess that a few dollops of fig conserve went amiss and ended up on the fine bed linen. I consoled myself that such things are bound to happen in a situation where you have to ladle your croissant up so far from the bed!

Later, as my TGV sped southwards for some much needed sunshine the coffee was served in cardboard cups and the cutlery was disposable plastic. Traveller’s Paris was a golden memory, a dream of more elegant times.

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The Last Palace of the Champs Elysées: A Courtesan’s Secret Alcazar

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Hiding in plain sight, you’re looking into the eye of the last remaining example of the magnificent private mansions that once lined the Champs Élysées in Paris. Hotel de la Païva was built by a famous 19th century courtesan who came from humble beginnings in the ghetto of Moscow. Esther Lachmann, aka La Païva, became one of the most infamous women in mid-19th-century France, at a time when there was a bewildering array of categories of prostitutes that ranged from street-walkers and sex workers in brothels to courtesans and kept women. La Païva, was one of the very lucky ones indeed…

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

The story of her rise to become the “the queen of kept women” is still as juicy and shocking as it was then, well over a century later. By the age of 17, she was married with a son, but left her first husband shortly after giving and travelled to Berlin, Vienna, Istanbul, London and Paris. She became the mistress of a well-known French pianist, before she drove him to financial ruin and was cast out of his home. In London, during the French Revolution, she turned her attention to the British aristocracy and wealthy bankers. While making love to them, Esther allegedly demanded they burn thousand franc banknotes. She met her second husband, Albino Francisco de Araújo de Paiva, at a German spa, but no less than a day after the wedding, she gave him a letter…

“You have obtained the object of your desire and have succeeded in making me your wife … I, on the other hand, have acquired your name, and we can cry quits. I have acted my part honestly and without disguise, and the position I aspired to I have gained; but as for you, Mons. de Paiva, you are saddled with a wife of foulest repute, whom you can introduce to no society, for no one will receive her. Let us part; go back to your country; I have your name, and will stay where I am” Esther Lachmann

Amazingly, he did as he was told and returned to his country, leaving her with his apartment and £40,000. Païva later committed suicide.

Soon after, she met a young Prussian industrialist and mining magnate, Count Guido Henckel von Donnersmarck, and followed him around Europe, pretending to bump into him at social events. She became his mistress for nearly 20 years before they finally married and began constructing the legendary Hotel de la Païva.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

As the story goes, when Esther was a young courtesan in the making, an angry customer had thrown her out of his carriage on the pavement of the Champs-Élysées. It was then that she vowed she would one day build the most beautiful house on the famous avenue in revenge of all the men who had mistreated her. Her new husband was one of Europe’s richest men and paid for the mansion that is thought to have cost the modern-day equivalent of nearly a billion dollars.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

A young Auguste Rodin was hired as one of the sculptors while Paul Baudry, who had just painted the Opera Garnier, got to work on the frescoes. The yellow Algerian onyx staircase is the only one like it in the world and helped classify the mansion as a historic monument. In the Moorish bathrooms, is a magnificent Napoleon III style bathtub, also in yellow onyx, where La Païva is said to have chosen between three taps which released milk, lime-blossom, and champagne for bathwater. The opulent tub has been left intact to this day and there are indeed, three taps.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Her house parties were just as legendary as the décor. As Paris’s most extravagant hostess, she held wild soirées and literary salons attended by the likes of Gustave Flaubert, Émile Zola and Eugène Delacroix. But whether she was very well-liked by any of her guests is another story. She was often heard shamelessly boasting about her obscene wealth, and in her later years, accounts of La Païva are noticeably less flattering.

One count noted, “she is painted and powdered like an old tightrope walker… the reddish hair under her arms showing each time that she adjusted her shoulder straps … [and] she has slept with everyone …”

The Goncourt brothers, diarists of the Second Empire, wrote that, “on the surface, the face is that of a courtesan who will not be too old for her profession when she is a hundred years old; but underneath, another face is visible from time to time, the terrible face of a painted corpse.”

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Historically, accounts of courtesans are notoriously unfavourable, and coming from an empire with notoriously loose morals to begin with, we’d be wise to remember to take everything said about La Païva with a pinch of salt. But Paris was soon to be at the centre of the Franco-Prussian War and for its most famous celebrity prostitute, notable investor, architecture patron and collector of jewels, with a Prussian husband to boot, her reign had come to an end. Suspected of espionage, she fled with her Prussian Count to Germany, where La Païva died at the age of 64. Unable to part with his wife, the devastated Count had Esther’s body embalmed in alcohol and stored in the attic of their winter palace – only for his second wife to discover years later.

Back in Paris, the Hotel de la Païva was left empty and abandoned for decades after the war until it found new tenants in 1904. Today, the mansion has functioned as The Travellers Club for over a century, a gentlemen’s club that was all-male until recently and rarely opens up to the public.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Perhaps our favourite room in the house is the Jardin d’Hiver (winter garden), which was recently restored to its former glory in 2018 after nearly a century of neglect.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

The gentlemen’s club offers bedrooms on the top floors and private dining rooms for its members, as well as an elegant backgammon lounge and bar beside the winter salon. The mansion can on rare occasions, also be hired for private events, which is how we ended up here.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Its visitor’s book is filled with the names of ex-Presidents, explorers and high-powered businessmen who have sought refuge there and its one of the only places in Paris where one can smoke freely inside. There are still only bathroom facilities for men, and despite being of the wrong sex, it’s unlikely we’ll ever enjoy walking into a men’s room as much as this again…

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Tucked away to the side of a restaurant, which now occupies the front courtyard, the quietly existing Hotel de la Païva is a place where time has undoubtedly stopped, in stark contrast to the changing face of the busy Avenue des Champs-Elysées.

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Carols at the Travellers

12 december, 2022 @ 18:30 - 20:00.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

This event is fully subscribed – a waiting list is in place and you can add your name using the ticket section below – please apply for only one waiting list place even if you would like to bring a guest. The attendee details will ask for the number of tickets wanted (maximum 2) and the name of your guest if you are inviting one.

After a rather prolongued Covid gap, we are pleased to invite you back to our:  

Annual Carol Singing at

“The Travellers”

25, avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris 8’eme

From 6:30 PM on Monday, 12th December, 2022

Vin chaud and mince pies will be served prior to the singing

Numbers are limited to 100 in total. Places will be allocated on a “first come, first served” basis.

Please add your name to the waiting list by booking through the “Tickets” section below. Only select one ticket – guest information, if applicable, will be requested within the attendee information. You will be contacted when places become available. Cost per person is €20.

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15 Best Nightclubs near the Champs Élysées

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1. whisper club paris near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Whisper Club Paris – by Whisper Club Paris – Uploaded by them

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Opening hours: monday to sunday — 10pm to 5am, address: champs-elysees, 13-15 rue de berri, 75008 paris, france, metro station: george v, 2. buddha-bar near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Buddha-Bar – by Buddha-Bar – Uploaded by them

Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday — 6pm to 2am

Address: 8-12 rue boissy d’anglas, 75008 paris, france, metro station: concorde, 3. le hobo near the champs élysées, opening hours: monday to sunday — 6pm to 5:30am, address: 67 rue pierre charron, 75008 paris, france, 4. dogstar club near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Dogstar Club – by Dogstar Club – Uploaded by them

Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday — 11am to 4am

Address: 8 boulevard de la madeleine, 75009 paris, france, metro station: madeleine, 5. triumph temple discothèque near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Triumph Temple Discothèque – by Triumph Temple Discothèque – Sourced from their Facebook

Opening Hours: Friday to Saturday — 11:30pm to 7am

Address: 32 rue de tilsitt, 75017 paris, france, metro station: charles de gaulle–étoile, 6. le bar near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Le Bar – by Le Bar – Sourced from their Facebook

ADDRESS: Hôtel Plazza Athénée, 25 Avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, France

Metro station: alma-marceau, 7. le bar kléber near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Le Bar Kléber – by Le Bar Kléber – Uploaded by them

Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday — 12pm to 2am

Address: 19 avenue kléber, 75116 paris, france, 8. le marta paris near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Le Marta Paris – by Le Marta Paris – Uploaded by them

ADDRESS: 46 Avenue George V, 75008 Paris, France

9. le madam near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Le Madam – by Le Madam – Uploaded by them

Opening Hours: Thursday to Saturday — 11pm to 5am

Address: 128 rue la boétie, 75008 paris, france, 10. l’arc paris near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

L’Arc Paris – by L’Arc Paris – Uploaded by them

Opening Hours: Thursday to Saturday — 12 pm to 6 am

Address: 12 rue de presbourg, 75016 paris, france, 11. le duplex paris near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Photo by Caleb Oquendo from Pexels

Opening Hours: mon-sun; 11 pm-6 am

Address: 2 bis av. foch, 75116 paris, france, metro station: charles de gaulle etoile station, 12. showcase near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Photo by Wendy Wei from Pexels

Opening Hours: fri-sat; 10 pm-5 am

Address: pont alexandre iii,port des champs elysées , 75008 paris, france, metro station: champs-élysées – clemenceau, 13. yoyo near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Photo by Inga Seliverstova from Pexels

Opening Hours: thur-sat; 11 pm-5 am

Address: palais de tokyo, 13 av. du président wilson, 75016 paris, france, metro station: saint-paul, 14. la mano paris near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Photo by Luciann Photography from Pexels

Opening Hours: wed-sat; 11:45 pm-6 am

Address: 10 rue papillon, 75009 paris, france, metro station: poissonnière, 15. rex club near the champs élysées.

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

Photo by Martin Lopez from Pexels

ADDRESS: 5 Bd Poissonnière, 75002 Paris, France

Metro station: bonne nouvelle, a night in paris.

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Guide to the Champs-Elysées Neighborhood

the travellers club 25 champs elysees

TripSavvy / Taylor McIntyre

The Champs-Elysées is one of the iconic Paris boulevards. Who hasn’t dreamed about strolling glamorously along its tree-lined streets towards the towering Arc de Triomphe? While the famous thoroughfare is known for its belles promenades (beautiful thoroughfare/walks), it also has much to offer in terms of shopping, eating, and entertainment.

In the neighborhood surrounding the famous street, you’ll find a brief respite from the intense crowds, a less touristy feel, and a return to old Paris. The Champs-Elysées and its environs definitely merit a visit, especially on a first visit to the French capital.

Finding the Neighborhood

The Champs Elysées neighborhood is located on the right bank of the Seine, in the western 8th arrondissement of Paris , with the Avenue running through the area on a diagonal. The city of Paris is divided into twenty arrondissements municipaux , administrative districts, more simply referred to as arrondissements. 

The elegant Tuileries Gardens and adjoining Louvre Museum sit to the east, just past the vast Concorde plaza and Obelisque column. The military monument known as the Arc de Triomphe marks the western edge of the neighborhood. The Seine river lies to the south, with the St. Lazare train station and the bustling Madeleine business district situated to the north.

The main streets around the Champs Elysées are Avenue des Champs Elysées, Avenue George V, and Avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt.

Getting There

To access the area, the easiest option is to take Metro line 1 to any of the following stops: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau, Franklin D. Roosevelt, George V or Charles-de-Gaulle Etoile. Alternatively, for a long stroll up the avenue from its beginning point, take line 12 to Concorde and walk from the bustling, dramatic square into the neighborhood from there.

Historical Importance

The formally planted trees lining the Avenue des Champs Elysées, which have become synonymous with the famed street, were first planted in 1724. Up until that date, the now-famous avenue was a smattering of fields and market gardens.

The Champs Elysées has played host to numerous military parades over the years, such as the Free French March by the 2nd Armored Division on August 26, 1944, and the American 28th Infantry Division on August 29, 1944, both marking the Liberation of Paris from the Nazi Occupation during World War II. The largest military parade in Europe passes down the street each year on Bastille Day , marking France’s national holiday.

Places of Interest

While visitors flock to the Champs Elysées, they may only encounter one or two of the important sights. The must-see places in the neighborhood include the monuments and theaters.

  • Arc de Triomphe - At the center of the Place de l’Etoile lies this most famous of arches, commissioned by Emperor Napoleon and inspired by ancient Roman arches. Impressive in scale, a trip to the top offers exceptional views of the wide, elegant Avenue des Champs Elysées.
  • Grand Palais/Petit Palais - Rising up from the Champs Elysées are the splendid geometrical glass rooftops of the Grand and Petit Palais, built for the Universal Exposition of 1900. The Petit Palais houses a fine arts museum while the Grand Palais has a science museum and regularly hosts events and exhibitions, including the major international art fair known as the FIAC.
  • Théâtre des Champs Elysées - This famous theater, located at 15 Avenue Montaigne, was built in 1913 in the Art Deco style and instantly became notorious for its hosting of Igor Stravinsky's then-scandalous Rite of Spring . It's an opulent setting for an evening out in Paris.
  • Lido Cabaret - Lido is one of the city's famed cabarets, offering a borderline kitschy but always entertaining revue that rivals the Moulin Rouge .

Eating and Drinking

There are eateries ranging from neighborhood bistros to fine dining restaurants. We've chosen a few of the more popular haunts.

  • Fouquet’s - After hours of strolling and window shopping along the grand avenue, sink into one of Fouquet’s leather armchairs and treat yourself to a coffee or cocktail—it's perhaps the only thing you’ll be able to afford here. Portions are small and prices are steep, but Fouquet’s is frequented by the likes of post-César film award party-goers and the French president. The famous brasserie has even been named a Historical Monument of France.
  • La Maison de l’Aubrac - Enter this relaxed, ranch-like eatery and you’ll almost forget you’re in one of the chicest areas of Paris. The theme here is beef, and you should only come here if you’re willing to make a meal out of it. All the meat is organic and hails from cows raised in the Midi-Pyrénées region. Pair your steak with one of their 800 wine selections from southwest France.
  • Al Ajami - If you’re starting to get tired of French cuisine, head for this swanky Lebanese restaurant just off the Avenue des Champs Elysées. Here, you’ll find rare Middle Eastern dishes such as minced lamb, onion, and cracked wheat croquettes plus delicious vegetarian classics like hummus and tabbouleh. Unlike most restaurants in Paris, Al Ajami serves food until midnight.
  • Ladurée - Looking for some of the best macaroons in the city? Stop into Ladurée and you might just find Utopia. Aside from macaroons—which come in delicious flavors such as pistachio, lemon, and coffee, sold in the trademark light-green boxes—Ladurée offers some of the most scrumptious pastries and sugary delights available in the city.

One of the city's major shopping districts , the Champs-Elysées neighborhood is host to both global chains and exclusive couture designers. There's little in the mid-range here, however.

On the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, you'll find worldwide, affordable chain stores like Zara, Gap, and Sephora (flagship Paris store) in addition to upscale names, including Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Hugo Boss, and Louis Pion

Off of the grand avenue, many more shopping hotspots await. The ultra-chic Avenue Montaigne boasts boutiques for couture designers Chanel, Christian Dior, Emmanuel Ungaro, Versace, and others. The equally prestigious Rue Saint-Honoré isn't far, either, offering a collection of boutiques.

The exclusive Champs-Elysees, called the "Champs" is probably not where you're going to find nightlife where the locals hang out. Its famed club scene often attracts tourists who haven't made it past the  Eiffel Tower  and straight-out-of-school suburbanites in search of the big city experience.

Dedicated clubbers will find some good choices for dancing and all-night partying in the area, though. If you want to go to the smaller clubs, dress Parisian-chic to get past the doormen—and expect some sobering cover charges. 

Some options for a fun night on the town aside from the touristy Lido include:

  • Le Queen  (102 avenue des Champs-Elysees): A gay club and one of the better spots for a dance.

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35 Top Things to Do Along the Champs Elysees

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Ready to discover the best of Paris? In this post, we take you on an exciting journey through the Champs-Élysées, one of the most iconic avenues in the world. We present 35 must-see attractions and activities that will make your visit an unforgettable experience.

From luxury boutiques and charming cafes to historic monuments and picturesque gardens, the Champs-Élysées has something special for every visitor.

Keep reading to discover how this legendary Parisian boulevard can captivate you with its elegance, history, and vibrant urban life. Get ready to explore the heart of Paris!

champs-elysees-paris

35 Things To Do and See Along the Champs Elysées at a Glance

If you don’t have time to read the full article, here’s a brief summary of all the things you can see and do on the Champs-Élysées, from the Arc de Triomphe to the Tuileries Gardens.

  • Arc de Triomphe : Begin your journey with this monumental arch that honors those who fought and died for France.
  • Champs-Élysées Avenue : Stroll along this famous avenue, known for its theaters, cafes, and luxury shops.
  • Publicis Drugstore : Take a look at this complex of luxury shopping and restaurants.
  • Champs-Élysées Gardens : Relax in these beautiful landscaped gardens filled with fountains and sculptures.
  • Théâtre des Champs-Élysées : Attend a performance at this famous theater known for ballet, opera, and classical concerts.
  • Lido de Paris : Experience a classic Parisian cabaret show at this renowned venue.
  • Guerlain : Indulge in luxury shopping at this historic perfume store.
  • Sephora : The largest and newly renovated Sephora store is on the Champs-Élysées.
  • Louis Vuitton flagship store : Visit the flagship store of this world-famous luxury brand.
  • Ladurée : Treat yourself to some of the best macarons in Paris at this legendary pastry shop.
  • Pierre Hermé : The Champs-Élysées is a paradise for pastry lovers, famous for its innovative macarons and exquisite desserts created by the renowned “Picasso of Pastry.”
  • Le Fouquet’s : With its rich history and luxurious ambiance, it’s an iconic restaurant and brasserie on the Champs-Élysées, known for attracting celebrities and offering an authentic French gastronomic experience.
  • Galeries Lafayette on the Champs-Élysées represent the epitome of Parisian luxury and fashion, offering a unique shopping experience in an elegant and contemporary setting.
  • Dining at Pavillon Elysée : Enjoy a meal or dinner at Pavillon Elysée, located on the Champs-Élysées, for a refined gastronomic experience surrounded by an elegant environment and stunning views.
  • Palace of the Elysée (Palais de L’Élysée): Take a glimpse of the official residence of the President of France (exterior view only).
  • Disney Store: A fun stop for families and Disney fans.
  • Cinéma Gaumont Champs-Élysées : Watch a movie at one of Paris’s most modern cinemas.
  • Abercrombie & Fitch flagship store : Explore this unique fashion store known for its distinctive atmosphere.
  • Golden Triangle : The Champs-Élysées Golden Triangle in Paris is an iconic area of luxury and exclusivity, known for its haute couture shops, designer boutiques, and jewelry stores. Located in the 8th district, this triangle is bounded by the avenues Montaigne, George V, and the Champs-Élysées.
  • Luxury shops and cafes : The Champs-Élysées is famous for its luxury shops and elegant cafes. Capturing the vibrant street life and shop window displays of famous brands can add a chic touch to your video.
  • Marche aux Timbres : Located on the Champs-Élysées, Marche aux Timbres is a fascinating stamp market where collectors and enthusiasts can find rare stamps and philatelic items in a historical and specialized atmosphere.
  • L’Atelier Renault: More than a dealership, it’s an innovative space on the Champs-Élysées that combines car exhibitions with cultural and technological events and a unique culinary experience.
  • Crazy Horse is a legendary Parisian cabaret on the Champs-Élysées, known for its avant-garde shows that blend art, music, and lighting effects to create a sensual and sophisticated experience.
  • Librairie Artcurial (Antique Bookstore): The Artcurial Bookstore on the Champs-Élysées is a prestigious antique bookstore, offering a rich collection of rare books, manuscripts, and limited editions in an elegant and cultural setting.
  • PSG Official Store : The official PSG store on the Champs-Élysées is the perfect destination for football fans, where they can find a wide range of merchandise and memorabilia from the popular Parisian football team.
  • Club Barrière Paris : The Club Barrière on the Champs-Élysées is an exclusive gaming and entertainment club that offers a luxurious experience with elegant table games, gourmet restaurants, and a sophisticated atmosphere.
  • Le Rooftop (19 avenue Kléber): Offers incredible views of Paris and the Eiffel Tower. It closes during winter, and the minimum consumption is €60 per person. Reservations are not accepted.
  • Grand Palais : Visit this historic site and exhibition hall, famous for its beautiful glass dome.
  • Petit Palais : Discover an art museum housing a variety of fine arts dating from the French Renaissance.
  • Les Invalides : Les Invalides in Paris is a historic architectural complex housing the Army Museum and Napoleon Bonaparte’s tomb, known for its impressive golden dome.
  • Pont Alexandre III : A masterpiece of Art Nouveau, it spans the River Seine and is famous for its elaborate decorations and statues, connecting Les Invalides with the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais.
  • Place de la Concorde : Explore this important public square with its Egyptian obelisk, fountains, and statues.
  • Musée de l’Orangerie : View Monet’s “Water Lilies” and other Impressionist and Post-Impressionist artworks.
  • Tuileries Gardens : Near Place de la Concorde, this historic park, with its beautiful gardens and ponds, is perfect for natural and relaxing shots.
  • Champs-Élysées Christmas Market (December) : Enjoy festive stalls and activities during the holiday season.

Walk along the Champs Elysées

The Champs Elysees, a renowned avenue in Paris, is not only famous for its prestigious shopping and vibrant atmosphere but is also home to several iconic landmarks .

As you explore this magnificent street, you’ll encounter a wealth of history and architectural marvels that showcase the rich heritage of the city.

Remember, the Champs-Élysées area is always evolving, so you might stumble upon new attractions and experiences as well!

Arc de Triomphe

Arco del Triunfo de Paris

One of the must-see landmarks on the Champs-Élysées is the Arc de Triomphe. This grand monument, proudly standing at the western end of the avenue, is an iconic symbol of French military victories.

Designed by Jean-François-Thérèse Chalgrin and inaugurated in 1836, the Arc de Triomphe offers breathtaking views from its observation deck.

You can admire panoramic views of Paris, with the Eiffel Tower majestically rising above the cityscape.

It is advisable to purchase tickets online to avoid queues and make the most of your visit.

Luxor Obelisk

Plaza de la Concordia Paris

Another notable landmark on this iconic avenue is the Luxor Obelisk. Standing tall in the center of Place de la Concorde, it adds a touch of ancient Egyptian splendor to this bustling street.

Donated by Mohammed Ali Pasha, the Viceroy of Egypt, in 1833, this granite obelisk is believed to be about 3,000 years old. Adorned with hieroglyphics and accompanied by exquisite fountains on both sides, it represents a captivating piece of history in the midst of modern Paris.

Now that we have explored some of the most prominent monuments on the Champs-Élysées, let’s delve into the historical architecture that graces this charming avenue.

Grand Palais and Petit Palais

Petit Palais entrance

The Petit Palais and the Grand Palais are two architectural monuments located in Paris that offer a unique blend of art, history, and architecture.

The Petit Palais , built for the 1900 World’s Fair, is now a fine arts museum housing an impressive collection spanning from antiquity to the early 20th century, including works by masters like Rembrandt and Rubens.

Its architectural design, featuring a beautiful interior garden and ornate façade, is a work of art in itself.

On the other hand, the Grand Palais , also constructed for the 1900 World’s Fair, is renowned for its iconic glass dome, one of the largest in Europe, and its impressive steel and glass structure.

The Grand Palais serves as a venue for major exhibitions, fashion events, and art fairs, such as the Paris Photo biennial and the FIAC (International Contemporary Art Fair).

Furthermore, it has hosted historical and cultural events, including haute couture fashion shows and avant-garde art exhibitions, making it a vibrant hub for the Parisian artistic and cultural scene.

Triangle d’Or

Louis Vuitton Champs Elysees

The Golden Triangle in Paris is an exclusive area renowned for its high concentration of luxury boutiques and designer shops.

Located in the 8th district, this triangle is formed by the avenues Montaigne, George V, and the Champs-Élysées, and represents the epicenter of glamour and fashion in the city.

Here, you can explore iconic stores like Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and Dior, which offer the latest in high fashion, jewelry, and luxury accessories.

In addition to shopping, the Golden Triangle is also known for its exclusive hotels and gourmet restaurants.

Establishments like the Hotel Plaza Athénée and the restaurant Alain Ducasse offer high-end accommodation and dining experiences, appealing to those looking to indulge in the most refined Parisian lifestyle.

Champs Elysees modern buildings

Discovering Cozy Cafes and Fine Dining

Miss Ko restaurant PAris

The Champs-Élysées offers much more than luxury shops; it provides a delightful culinary journey with charming cafes and top-notch restaurants. Here, you can find everything from a casual spot for brunch to gourmet dinners to suit all tastes.

Imagine yourself sitting in a café with a hot coffee and a freshly baked croissant. The aroma of espresso envelops you as you savor the unique atmosphere of Paris.

Although the Champs-Élysées is bustling with activity, the café offers an oasis of calm.

If you’re looking for a top-notch culinary experience, this avenue has you covered. There are Michelin-starred restaurants and hidden gems serving the best of French cuisine.

Picture yourself dining in a historic brasserie, trying their famous escargot, or enjoying a gourmet dinner with a view of the Eiffel Tower. These are moments that turn a meal into an unforgettable memory, an immersion into the Parisian way of life.

Whether you’re sampling exquisite pastries from a local bakery, savoring traditional dishes in a cozy bistro, or indulging in fine dining at a renowned restaurant, the Champs-Élysées offers a plethora of delights to explore.

Visiting these cafes and restaurants ensures you a truly Parisian and memorable experience.

Dining Experience at Pavillon Elysée

When you find yourself on the iconic Champs Elysees, make sure to indulge in a memorable dining experience in Paris at the renowned Pavillon Elysée. Nestled in the heart of this bustling avenue, Pavillon Elysée offers a delightful fusion of French culinary excellence and Parisian charm.

As you step into the elegant establishment, you’ll be greeted by a sophisticated ambiance that perfectly complements the luxurious atmosphere of the Champs Elysees.

The chic interior design, with its contemporary elements blended seamlessly with classic touches, sets the stage for an unforgettable dining experience.

Begin your gastronomic journey by savoring an array of exquisite French dishes crafted by talented chefs who understand the art of fine cuisine. From delicate appetizers to mouthwatering main courses and delectable desserts, each dish is meticulously prepared using only the finest ingredients.

With a focus on seasonal produce, expect to be treated to an explosion of flavors that will tantalize your taste buds.

Les Invalides and the Alexandre III Bridge

Les Invalides

Les Invalides in Paris is an impressive architectural complex that houses historical monuments and museums dedicated to France’s military history. It is primarily known for hosting the tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte under its majestic golden dome.

The complex includes the Army Museum, which boasts one of the world’s largest collections of weapons and armor, providing a profound insight into the military conflicts that have shaped France’s history.

This place is not only a tribute to the country’s military history but also an outstanding example of classical French architecture.

Near Les Invalides is the Alexandre III Bridge, a marvel of Art Nouveau that spans the River Seine.

Connecting Les Invalides with the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais, this bridge is famous for its opulent decoration, including golden lampposts, cherubs, nymphs, and four imposing columns crowned with statues of Pegasus.

The bridge is not only a masterpiece of engineering and design but also a popular photographic spot for its stunning views of the River Seine and nearby monuments, offering a unique and charming perspective of the city.

Tuileries Gardens

Jardin de Tuileries

The Tuileries Gardens, located between the Louvre Museum and Place de la Concorde in Paris, are a magnificent example of a French formal garden.

Originally designed in the 16th century and redesigned by André Le Nôtre in the 17th century, these gardens offer a tranquil and artistically structured space filled with statues, ponds, and perfectly aligned pathways.

They are the ideal place for a relaxing stroll, admiring both nature and art, or simply resting on one of their many green chairs in front of the impressive ponds.

The Tuileries Gardens also house two museums, the Jeu de Paume and the Orangerie, where you can admire works by Impressionist and Post-Impressionist artists, including Monet’s famous “Water Lilies” series.

Place de la Concorde

Place de la Concorde, Paris

Place de la Concorde, located at the end of the Tuileries Gardens, is one of the largest and most significant squares in Paris.

Famous for its monumental Luxor Egyptian obelisk, which is 3,300 years old, the square is also flanked by majestic fountains and statues representing French cities.

This historic location has witnessed many important events in French history, including being the site of the guillotine during the French Revolution.

Today, Place de la Concorde offers a breathtaking view of the Champs-Élysées Avenue and serves as a popular meeting point for tourists and locals alike, making it a perfect place to appreciate the magnificence and history of Paris.

Plan Your Trip to Paris

  • How to Plan a Trip to Paris
  • Everything you need to know to travel to Paris
  • Hotels with views of the Eiffel Tower
  • How to visit Versailles Palace on a day trip
  • Top Attractions in Paris

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Rochester Champs-Elysees Hotel

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THE 10 BEST Nightlife in Champs-Élysées (Paris)

Nightlife in champs-élysées.

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  • Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

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What travelers are saying.

Jennifer Whitney

Ten Days that Shook the World

The Military Revolutionary Committee, with a fierce intensity, followed up its victory:

November 14th.

To all Army, corps, divisional and regimental Committees, to all Soviets of Workers’, Soldiers’ and Peasants’ Deputies, to all, all, all.

Conforming to the agreement between the Cossacks, yunkers, soldiers, sailors and workers, it has been decided to arraign Alexander Feodorvitch Kerensky before a tribunal of the people. We demand that Kerensky be arrested, and that he be ordered, in the name of the organisations hereinafter mentioned, to come immediately to Petrograd and present himself to the tribunal.

Signed, The Cossacks of the First Division of Ussuri Cavalry; the Committee of Yunkers of the Petrograd detachment of Franc-Tireurs; the delegate of the Fifth Army. People’s Commissar Dybenko

The Committee for Salvation, the Duma, the Central Committee of the Socialist Revolutionary party—proudly claiming Kerensky as a member—all passionately protested that he could only be held responsible to the Constituent Assembly.

On the evening of November 16th I watched two thousand Red Guards swing down the Zagorodny Prospekt behind a military band playing the Marseillaise —and how appropriate it sounded—with blood-red flags over the dark ranks of workmen, to welcome home again their brothers who had defended “Red Petrograd.” In the bitter dusk they tramped, men and women, their tall bayonets swaying; through streets faintly lighted and slippery with mud, between silent crowds of bourgeois, contemptuous but fearful….

All were against them—business men, speculators, investors, land-owners, army officers, politicians, teachers, students, professional men, shop-keepers, clerks, agents. The other Socialist parties hated the Bolsheviki with an implacable hatred. On the side of the Soviets were the rank and file of the workers, the sailors, all the undemoralised soldiers, the landless peasants, and a few—a very few—intellectuals….

From the farthest corners of great Russia, whereupon desperate street-fighting burst like a wave, news of Kerensky’s defeat came echoing back the immense roar of proletarian victory. Kazan, Saratov, Novgorod, Vinnitza—where the streets had run with blood; Moscow, where the Bolsheviki had turned their artillery against the last strong-hold of the bourgeoisie—the Kremlin.

“They are bombarding the Kremlin!” The news passed from mouth to mouth in the streets of Petrograd, almost with a sense of terror. Travellers from “white and shining little mother Moscow” told fearful tales. Thousands killed; the Tverskaya and the Kuznetsky Most in flames; the church of Vasili Blazheiny a smoking ruin; Usspensky Cathedral crumbling down; the Spasskaya Gate of the Kremlin tottering; the Duma burned to the ground. [1]

Nothing that the Bolsheviki had done could compare with this fearful blasphemy in the heart of Holy Russia. To the ears of the devout sounded the shock of guns crashing in the face of the Holy Orthodox Church, and pounding to dust the sanctuary of the Russian nation….

On November 15th, Lunatcharsky, Commissar of Education, broke into tears at the session of the Council of People’s Commissars, and rushed from the room, crying, “I cannot stand it! I cannot bear the monstrous destruction of beauty and tradition….”

That afternoon his letter of resignation was published in the newspapers:

I have just been informed, by people arriving from Moscow, what has happened there.

The Cathedral of St. Basil the Blessed, the Cathedral of the Assumption, are being bombarded. The Kremlin, where are now gathered the most important art treasures of Petrograd and of Moscow, is under artillery fire. There are thousands of victims.

The fearful struggle there has reached a pitch of bestial ferocity.

What is left? What more can happen?

I cannot bear this. My cup is full. I am unable to endure these horrors. It is impossible to work under the pressure of thoughts which drive me mad!

That is why I am leaving the Council of People’s Commissars.

I fully realise the gravity of this decision. But I can bear no more… [2]

That same day the White Guards and yunkers in the Kremlin surrendered, and were allowed to march out unharmed. The treaty of peace follows:

1. The Committee of Public Safety ceases to exist.

2. The White Guard gives up its arms and dissolves. The officers retain their swords and regulations side-arms. In the Military Schools are retained only the arms necessary for instruction; all others are surrendered by the yunkers. The Military Revolutionary Committee guarantees the liberty and inviolability of the person.

3. To settle the question of disarmament, as set forth in section 2, a special commission is appointed, consisting of representatives from all organisations which took part in the peace negotiations.

4. From the moment of the signature of this peace treaty, both parties shall immediately give order to cease firing and halt all military operations, taking measures to ensure punctual obedience to this order.

5. At the signature of the treaty, all prisoners made by the two parties shall be released….

For two days now the Bolsheviki had been in control of the city. The frightened citizens were creeping out of their cellars to seek their dead; the barricades in the streets were being removed. Instead of diminishing, however, the stories of destruction in Moscow continued to grow…. And it was under the influence of these fearful reports that we decided to go there.

Petrograd, after all, in spite of being for a century the seat of Government, is still an artificial city. Moscow is real Russia, Russia as it was and will be; in Moscow we would get the true feeling of the Russian people about the Revolution. Life was more intense there.

For the past week the Petrograd Military Revolutionary Committee, aided by the rank and file of the Railway Workers, had seized control of the Nicolai Railroad, and hurled trainload after trainload of sailors and Red Guards southwest…. We were provided with passes from Smolny, without which no one could leave the capital…. When the train backed into the station, a mob of shabby soldiers, all carrying huge sacks of eatables, stormed the doors, smashed the windows, and poured into all the compartments, filling up the aisles and even climbing onto the roof. Three of us managed to wedge our way into a compartment, but almost immediately about twenty soldiers entered…. There was room for only four people; we argued, expostulated, and the conductor joined us—but the soldiers merely laughed. Were they to bother about the comfort of a lot of boorzhui (bourgeois)? We produced the passes from Smolny; instantly the soldiers changed their attitude.

“Come, comrades,” cried one, “these are American tovarishtchi. They have come thirty thousand versts to see our Revolution, and they are naturally tired….”

With polite and friendly apologies the soldiers began to leave. Shortly afterward we heard them breaking into a compartment occupied by two stout, well-dressed Russians, who had bribed the conductor and locked their door….

About seven o’clock in the evening we drew out of the station, an immense long train drawn by a weak little locomotive burning wood, and stumbled along slowly, with many stops. The soldiers on the roof kicked with their heels and sang whining peasant songs; and in the corridor, so jammed that it was impossible to pass, violent political debates raged all night long. Occasionally the conductor came through, as a matter of habit, looking for tickets. He found very few except ours, and after a half-hour of futile wrangling, lifted his arms despairingly and withdrew. The atmosphere was stifling, full of smoke and foul odours; if it hadn’t been for the broken windows we would doubtless have smothered during the night.

In the morning, hours late, we looked out upon a snowy world. It was bitter cold. About noon a peasant woman got on with a basket-full of bread-chunks and a great can of luke warm coffee-substitute. From then on until dark there was nothing but the packed train, jolting and stopping, and occasional stations where a ravenous mob swooped down on the scantily-furnished buffet and swept it clean…. At one of these halts I ran into Nogin and Rykov, the seceding Commissars, who were returning to Moscow to put their grievances before their own Soviet, and further along was Bukharin, a short, red-bearded man with the eyes of a fanatic—“more Left than Lenin,” they said of him….

Then the three strokes of the bell and we made a rush for the train, worming our way through the packed and noisy aisle…. A good-natured crowd, bearing the discomfort with humorous patience, interminably arguing about everything from the situation in Petrograd to the British Trade-Union system, and disputing loudly with the few boorzhui who were on board. Before we reached Moscow almost every car had organised a Committee to secure and distribute food, and these Committees became divided into political factions, who wrangled over fundamental principles….

The station at Moscow was deserted. We went to the office of the Commissar, in order to arrange for our return tickets. He was a sullen youth with the shoulder-straps of a Lieutenant; when we showed him our papers from Smolny, he lost his temper and declared that he was no Bolshevik, that he represented the Committee of Public Safety…. It was characteristic—in the general turmoil attending the conquest of the city, the chief railway station had been forgotten by the victors….

Not a cab in sight. A few blocks down the street, however, we woke up a grotesquely-padded izvostchik asleep upright on the box of his little sleigh. “How much to the centre of the town?”

He scratched his head. “The barini won’t be able to find a room in any hotel,” he said. “But I’ll take you around for a hundred rubles….” Before the Revolution it cost two! We objected, but he simply shrugged his shoulders. “It takes a good deal of courage to drive a sleigh nowadays,” he went on. We could not beat him down below fifty…. As we sped along the silent, snowy half-lighted streets, he recounted his adventures during the six days’ fighting. “Driving along, or waiting for a fare on the corner,” he said, “all of a sudden pooff! a cannon ball exploding here, pooff! a cannon ball there, ratt-ratt! a machine-gun…. I gallop, the devils shooting all around. I get to a nice quiet street and stop, doze a little, pooff! another cannon ball, ratt-ratt …. Devils! Devils! Devils! Brrr!”

In the centre of the town the snow-piled streets were quiet with the stillness of convalescence. Only a few arc-lights were burning, only a few pedestrians hurried along the side-walks. An icy wind blew from the great plain, cutting to the bone. At the first hotel we entered an office illuminated by two candles.

“Yes, we have some very comfortable rooms, but all the windows are shot out. If the gospodin does not mind a little fresh air….”

Down the Tverskaya the shop-windows were broken, and there were shell-holes and torn-up paving stones in the street. Hotel after hotel, all full, or the proprietors still so frightened that all they could say was, “No, no, there is no room! There is no room!” On the main streets, where the great banking-houses and mercantile houses lay, the Bolshevik artillery had been indiscriminately effective. As one Soviet official told me, “Whenever we didn’t know just where the yunkers and White Guards were, we bombarded their pocketbooks….”

At the big Hotel National they finally took us in; for we were foreigners, and the Military Revolutionary Committee had promised to protect the dwellings of foreigners…. On the top floor the manager showed us where shrapnel had shattered several windows. “The animals!” said he, shaking his first at imaginary Bolsheviki. “But wait! Their time will come; in just a few days now their ridiculous Government will fall, and then we shall make them suffer!”

We dined at a vegetarian restaurant with the enticing name, “I Eat Nobody,” and Tolstoy’s picture prominent on the walls, and then sallied out into the streets.

The headquarters of the Moscow Soviet was in the palace of the former Governor-General, an imposing white building fronting Skobeliev Square. Red Guards stood sentry at the door. At the head of the wide, formal stairway, whose walls were plastered with announcements of committee-meetings and addresses of political parties, we passed through a series of lofty ante-rooms, hung with red-shrouded pictures in gold frames, to the splendid state salon, with its magnificent crystal lustres and gilded cornices. A low-voiced hum of talk, underlaid with the whirring bass of a score of sewing machines, filled the place. Huge bolts of red and black cotton cloth were unrolled, serpentining across the parqueted floor and over tables, at which sat half a hundred women, cutting and sewing streamers and banners for the Funeral of the Revolutionary Dead. The faces of these women were roughened and scarred with life at its most difficult; they worked now sternly, many of them with eyes red from weeping…. The losses of the Red Army had been heavy.

At a desk in one corner was Rogov, an intelligent, bearded man with glasses, wearing the black blouse of a worker. He invited us to march with the Central Executive Committee in the funeral procession next morning….

“It is impossible to teach the Socialist Revolutionaries and the Mensheviki anything!” he exclaimed. “They compromise from sheer habit. Imagine! They proposed that we hold a joint funeral with the yunkers!”

Across the hall came a man in a ragged soldier-coat and shapka, whose face was familiar; I recognised Melnichansky, whom I had known as the watch-maker George Melcher in Bayonne, New Jersey, during the great Standard Oil strike. Now, he told me, he was secretary of the Moscow Metal-Workers’ Union, and a Commissar of the Military Revolutionary Committee during the fighting….

“You see me!” he cried, showing his decrepit clothing. “I was with the boys in the Kremlin when the yunkers came the first time. They shut me up in the cellar and swiped my overcoat, my money, watch and even the ring on my finger. This is all I’ve got to wear!”

From him I learned many details of the bloody six-day battle which had rent Moscow in two. Unlike in Petrograd, in Moscow the City Duma had taken command of the yunkers and White Guards. Rudnev, the Mayor, and Minor, president of the Duma, had directed the activities of the Committee of Public Safety and the troops. Riabtsev, Commandant of the city, a man of democratic instincts, had hesitated about opposing the Military Revolutionary Committee; but the Duma had forced him…. It was the Mayor who had urged the occupation of the Kremlin; “They will never dare fire on you there,” he said….

One garrison regiment, badly demoralised by long inactivity, had been approached by both sides. The regiment held a meeting to decide what action to take. Resolved, that the regiment remain neutral, and continue its present activities—which consisted in peddling rubbers and sunflower seeds!

“But worst of all,” said Melnichansky, “we had to organise while we were fighting. The other side knew just what it wanted; but here the soldiers had their Soviet and the workers theirs…. There was a fearful wrangle over who should be Commander-in-chief; some regiments talked for days before they decided what to do; and when the officers suddenly deserted us, we had no battle-staff to give orders….”

Vivid little pictures he gave me. On a cold grey day he had stood at a corner of the Nikitskaya, which was swept by blasts of machine-gun fire. A throng of little boys were gathered there—street waifs who used to be newsboys. Shrill, excited as if with a new game, they waited until the firing slackened, and then tried to run across the street…. Many were killed, but the rest dashed backward and forward, laughing, daring each other….

Late in the evening I went to the Dvorianskoye Sobranie —the Nobles’ Club—where the Moscow Bolsheviki were to meet and consider the report of Nogin, Rykov and the others who had left the Council of People’s Commissars.

The meeting-place was a theatre, in which, under the old ré#233;gime, to audiences of officers and glittering ladies, amateur presentations of the latest French comedy had once taken place.

At first the place filled with the intellectuals—those who lived near the centre of the town. Nogin spoke, and most of his listeners were plainly with him. It was very late before the workers arrived; the working-class quarters were on the outskirts of the town, and no street-cars were running. But about midnight they began to clump up the stairs, in groups of ten or twenty—big, rough men, in coarse clothes, fresh from the battle-line, where they had fought like devils for a week, seeing their comrades fall all about them.

Scarcely had the meeting formally opened before Nogin was assailed with a tempest of jeers and angry shouts. In vain he tried to argue, to explain; they would not listen. He had left the Council of People’s Commissars; he had deserted his post while the battle was raging. As for the bourgeois press, here in Moscow there was no more bourgeois press; even the City Duma had been dissolved. [4] Bukharin stood up, savage, logical, with a voice which plunged and struck, plunged and struck…. Him they listened to with shining eyes. Resolution, to support the action of the Council of People’s Commissars, passed by overwhelming majority. So spoke Moscow….

Late in the night we went through the empty streets and under the Iberian Gate to the great Red Square in front of the Kremlin. The church of Vasili Blazheiny loomed fantastic, its bright-coloured, convoluted and blazoned cupolas vague in the darkness. There was no sign of any damage…. Along one side of the square the dark towers and walls of the Kremlin stood up. On the high walls flickered redly the light of hidden flames; voices reached us across the immense place, and the sound of picks and shovels. We crossed over.

Mountains of dirt and rock were piled high near the base of the wall. Climbing these we looked down into two massive pits, ten or fifteen feet deep and fifty yards long, where hundreds of soldiers and workers were digging in the light of huge fires.

A young student spoke to us in German. “The Brotherhood Grave,” he explained. “To-morrow we shall bury here five hundred proletarians who died for the Revolution.”

He took us down into the pit. In frantic haste swung the picks and shovels, and the earth-mountains grew. No one spoke. Overhead the night was thick with stars, and the ancient Imperial Kremlin wall towered up immeasurably.

“Here in this holy place,” said the student, “holiest of all Russia, we shall bury our most holy. Here where are the tombs of the Tsars, our Tsar—the People—shall sleep….” His arm was in a sling, from a bullet-wound gained in the fighting. He looked at it. “You foreigners look down on us Russians because so long we tolerated a mediæval monarchy,” said he. “But we saw that the Tsar was not the only tyrant in the world; capitalism was worse, and in all the countries of the world capitalism was Emperor…. Russian revolutionary tactics are best….”

As we left, the workers in the pit, exhausted and running with sweat in spite of the cold, began to climb wearily out. Across the Red Square a dark knot of men came hurrying. They swarmed into the pits, picked up the tools and began digging, digging, without a word….

So, all the long night volunteers of the People relieved each other, never halting in their driving speed, and the cold light of the dawn laid bare the great Square, white with snow, and the yawning brown pits of the Brotherhood Grave, quite finished.

We rose before sunrise, and hurried through the dark streets to Skobeliev Square. In all the great city not a human being could be seen; but there was a faint sound of stirring, far and near, like a deep wind coming. In the pale half-light a little group of men and women were gathered before the Soviet headquarters, with a sheaf of gold-lettered red banners—the Central Executive Committee of the Moscow Soviets. It grew light. From afar the vague stirring sound deepened and became louder, a steady and tremendous bass. The city was rising. We set out down the Tverskaya, the banners flapping overhead. The little street chapels along our way were locked and dark, as was the Chapel of the Iberian Virgin, which each new Tsar used to visit before he went to the Kremlin to crown himself, and which, day or night, was always open and crowded, and brilliant with the candles of the devout gleaming on the gold and silver and jewels of the ikons. Now, for the first time since Napoleon was in Moscow, they say, the candles were out.

The Holy Orthodox Church had withdrawn the light of its countenance from Moscow, the nest of irreverent vipers who had bombarded the Kremlin. Dark and silent and cold were the churches; the priests had disappeared. There were no popes to officiate at the Red Burial, there had been no sacrament for the dead, nor were any prayers to be said over the grave of the blasphemers. Tikhon, Metropolitan of Moscow, was soon to excommunicate the Soviets….

Also the shops were closed, and the propertied classes stayed at home—but for other reasons. This was the Day of the People, the rumour of whose coming was thunderous as surf….

Already through the Iberian Gate a human river was flowing, and the vast Red Square was spotted with people, thousands of them. I remarked that as the throng passed the Iberian Chapel, where always before the passerby had crossed himself, they did not seem to notice it….

We forced our way through the dense mass packed near the Kremlin wall, and stood upon one of the dirt-mountains. Already several men were there, among them Muranov, the soldier who had been elected Commandant of Moscow—a tall, simple-looking, bearded man with a gentle face.

Through all the streets to the Red Square the torrents of people poured, thousands upon thousands of them, all with the look of the poor and the toiling. A military band came marching up, playing the Internationale, and spontaneously the song caught and spread like wind-ripples on a sea, slow and solemn. From the top of the Kremlin wall gigantic banners unrolled to the ground; red, with great letters in gold and in white, saying, “Martyrs of the Beginning of World Social Revolution,” and “Long Live the Brotherhood of Workers of the World.”

A bitter wind swept the Square, lifting the banners. Now from the far quarters of the city the workers of the different factories were arriving, with their dead. They could be seen coming through the Gate, the blare of their banners, and the dull red—like blood—of the coffins they carried. These were rude boxes, made of unplaned wood and daubed with crimson, borne high on the shoulders of rough men who marched with tears streaming down their faces, and followed by women who sobbed and screamed, or walked stiffly, with white, dead faces. Some of the coffins were open, the lid carried behind them; others were covered with gilded or silvered cloth, or had a soldier’s hat nailed on the top. There were many wreaths of hideous artificial flowers….

Through an irregular lane that opened and closed again the procession slowly moved toward us. Now through the Gate was flowing an endless stream of banners, all shades of red, with silver and gold lettering, knots of crepe hanging from the top—and some Anarchist flags, black with white letters. The band was playing the Revolutionary Funeral March, and against the immense singing of the mass of people, standing uncovered, the paraders sang hoarsely, choked with sobs….

Between the factory-workers came companies of soldiers with their coffins, too, and squadrons of cavalry, riding at salute, and artillery batteries, the cannon wound with red and black—forever, it seemed. Their banners said, “Long live the Third International!” or “We Want an Honest, General, Democratic Peace!”

Slowly the marchers came with their coffins to the entrance of the grave, and the bearers clambered up with their burdens and went down into the pit. Many of them were women—squat, strong proletarian women. Behind the dead came other women—women young and broken, or old, wrinkled women making noises like hurt animals, who tried to follow their sons and husbands into the Brotherhood Grave, and shrieked when compassionate hands restrained them. The poor love each other so!

All the long day the funeral procession passed, coming in by the Iberian Gate and leaving the Square by way of the Nikolskaya, a river of red banners, bearing words of hope and brotherhood and stupendous prophecies, against a back-ground of fifty thousand people,—under the eyes of the world’s workers and their descendants forever….

One by one the five hundred coffins were laid in the pits. Dusk fell, and still the banners came drooping and fluttering, the band played the Funeral March, and the huge assemblage chanted. In the leafless branches of the trees above the grave the wreaths were hung, like strange, multi-coloured blossoms. Two hundred men began to shovel in the dirt. It rained dully down upon the coffins with a thudding sound, audible beneath the singing….

The lights came out. The last banners passed, and the last moaning women, looking back with awful intensity as they went. Slowly from the great Square ebbed the proletarian tide….

I suddenly realised that the devout Russian people no longer needed priests to pray them into heaven. On earth they were building a kingdom more bright than any heaven had to offer, and for which it was a glory to die….

[1] Damage To The Kremlin I myself verified the damage to the Kremlin, which I visited immediately after the bombardment. The Little Nicolai Palace, a building of no particular importance, which was occupied occasionally by receptions of one of the Grand Duchesses, had served as barracks for the yunkers. It was not only bombarded, but pretty well sacked; fortunately there was nothing in it of particular historical value.

Usspensky Cathedral had a shell-hole in one of the cupolas, but except for a few feet of mosaic in the ceiling, was undamaged. The frescoes on the porch of Blagovestchensky Cathedral were badly damaged by a shell. Another shell hit the corner of Ivan Veliki. Tchudovsky Monastery was hit about thirty times, but only one shell went through a window into the interior, the others breaking the brick window-moulding and the roof cornices.

The clock over the Spasskaya Gate was smashed. Troitsky Gate was battered, but easily reparable. One of the lower towers had lost its brick spire.

[2] Lunatcharsky’s Declaration “Comrades! You are the young masters of the country, and although now you have much to do and think about, you must know how to defend your artistic and scientific treasures.

“Comrades! That which is happening at Moscow is a horrible, irreparable misfortune…. The People in its struggle for the power has mutilated our glorious capital.

“It is particularly terrible in these days of violent struggle, of destructive warfare, to be Commissar of Public Education. Only the hope of the victory of Socialism, the source of a new and superior culture, brings me comfort. On me weighs the responsibility of protecting the artistic wealth of the people…. Not being able to remain at my post, where I had no influence, I resigned. My comrades, the other Commissars, considered this resignation inadmissible. I shall therefore remain at my post…. And moreover, I understand that the damage done to the Kremlin is not as serious as has been reported….

“But I beg you, comrades, to give me your support…. Preserve for yourselves and your descendants the beauty of our land; be the guardians of the property of the People.

[3] Questionnaire For The Bourgeoisie

In virtue of the powers vested in me by the Military Revolutionary Committee attached to the Moscow Soviet of Workers’ and Soldiers’ Deputies, I decree:

1. All banks with branches, the Central State Savings Bank with branches, and the savings banks at the Post and Telegraph offices are to be opened beginning November 22nd, from 11 A. M. to 1 P. M. until further order.

2. On current accounts and on the books of the savings banks, payments will be made by the above mentioned institutions, of not more than 150 rubles for each depositor during the course of the next week.

3. Payments of amounts exceeding 150 rubles a week on current accounts and savings banks books, also payments on other accounts of all kinds will be allowed during the next three days—November 22nd, 23d, and 24th, only in the following cases:

(a) On the accounts of military organisations for the satisfaction of their needs;

(b) For the payment of salaries of employees and the earnings of workers according to the tables and lists certified by the Factory Committees or Soviets of Employees, and attested by the signatures of the Commissars, or the representatives of the Military Revolutionary Committee, and the district Military Revolutionary Committees.

4. Not more than 150 rubles are to be paid against drafts; the remaining sums are to be entered on current account, payments on which are to be made in the order established by the present decree.

5. All other banking operations are prohibited during these three days.

6. The receipt of money on all accounts is allowed for any amount.

7. The representatives of the Finance Council for the certification of the authorisations indicated in clause 3 will hold their office in the building of the Stock Exchange, Ilyinka Street, from 10 A. M. to 2 P. M.

8. The Banks and Savings Banks shall send the totals of daily cash operations by 5 P. M. to the headquarters of the Soviet, Skobeliev Square, to the Military Revolutionary Committee, for the Finance Council.

9. All employees and managers of credit institutions of all kinds who refuse to comply with this decree shall be responsible as enemies of the Revolution and of the mass of the population, before the Revolutionary Tribunals. Their names shall be published for general information.

10. For the control of the operations of Branches of the Savings Banks and Banks within the limits of this decree, the district Military Revolutionary Committees shall elect three representatives and appoint their place of business.

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    Place de la Concorde. A stone's throw away from the Grand Palais is another must-see highlight in Paris. Head over to Place de la Concorde, the famous plaza that's at the very tip of the Champs Elysees. You'll be treated to fine views of the entire length of the avenue and its surrounding landmarks. The plaza is also famous for its ...

  21. THE 10 BEST Nightlife in Champs-Élysées (Paris)

    And of course a good selection of beers and cocktails. Review of: Chesterfield Cafe. This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews. Top 10 Nightlife in Champs-Élysées: See reviews and photos of Nightlife in Champs-Élysées, Paris (France) on Tripadvisor.

  22. Ten Days That Shook the World, Chapter 10: Moscow

    Travellers from "white and shining little mother Moscow" told fearful tales. Thousands killed; the Tverskaya and the Kuznetsky Most in flames; the church of Vasili Blazheiny a smoking ruin; Usspensky Cathedral crumbling down; the Spasskaya Gate of the Kremlin tottering; the Duma burned to the ground. [1]

  23. Majestic Hôtel

    Located just a stone's throw from the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Elysées, the Majestic Hotel-Spa is contemporary with a distinctive Parisian flair.A WHAT WE CHECK WHY BOOK WITH US