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Locks/Security

Tough Bike Locks: It's your bike, keep it that way. From basic locks to more advanced u-lock protection, we offer locks that provide you with peace of mind.

Kryptonite Kryptoflex 1004 Double Loop Cable

Best bike locks in 2024: Tested and rated

Keep your bike safe and secure with the best bike locks

Chain locks

Folding locks, cable locks, how to choose the best bike lock for you, bike lock types, how we tested the best bike locks, frequently asked questions.

1. U-Locks 2. Chain locks 3. Folding locks 4. Cable locks 5. How to choose the best bike lock 6. Bike lock types 7. How we tested 8. Bike lock FAQ

A strong, well-designed bike lock will help protect your two-wheeled purchase from opportunistic thieves. But before you choose the best bike lock for you, it’s important to understand what the best bike locks in 2024 can and cannot do.

For starters, every single bike lock on the market today can be cut or otherwise destroyed by a determined thief. However, the best bike locks will deter opportunistic, grab-and-go thieves and thwart all but the most prepared thieves with the correct tools. 

The right lock for you will combine usability, portability and low weight with the level of protection you need for parking your bike wherever you’re most likely to leave it. Of all the bike locks we’ve tested, here are the best ones you can buy in 2024 to guard your bike, electric bike or electric scooter . 

We've divided this guide into sections based on the various types of bike locks available to help you decide which is best for your bike and needs. On the subject of protecting valuables, be sure to keep your head safe, too, with one of our best bike helmets . 

Best overall

Weight : 4.2 pounds Shackle length: 6.2 inches

Pros: Most resistant to angle grinder attacks Cons : Small shackle; pricey; heavy

Before you balk at the price, consider how much money the Hiplok D1000 might keep in your pocket. It has earned the Sold Secure Diamond rating, which is the highest a lock can get. Ferosafe, a composite graphene material, works to wear down angle grinder blades before they can cut through the overbuilt, blocky shackle. It also stands tough against carbide-tipped drill bits. Hiplok says it’s 20 times more resistant to angle grinder attacks than other locks on the market. 

Aside from the price tag, the small shackle length is about the only drawback. Hiplok offers a lifetime warranty on the lock after registration but does not offer any anti-theft reimbursement for your bike. If you’re looking for the best U-lock on the market, look no further. 

Weight : 4 pounds Shackle length: 8 inches

Pros: Easy to use; LED key light; high security rating Cons: Flimsy mount; heavy

With a long, 8-inch by 4-inch shackle opening, it was generally easy to find places to lock up my bike with the New York Lock Standard. It’s rubber-coated throughout, which protects your bike’s finish and the lock itself from exposure to the elements. The New York Lock gets an ART rating of 4 out of 5 stars, which is impressive. It features a Sold Secure Gold rating too. 

The keyhole has a cover to keep muck out of the mechanism, and Kryptonite offers a key replacement program should you lose yours. The included key features an LED light to make locking and unlocking easier in the dark. You can register your bike with Kryptonite to take advantage of the brand’s Anti-Theft offer of $4,000 should your bike get stolen. As U-Locks go, the New York Lock is simple, easy to use, and tough. A set of bolt cutters won’t get thieves very far here.  

Best budget u-lock

Weight : 3.17 pounds Shackle length : 9 inches

Pros : Long shackle; well-priced Cons : Plastic on locking bar seems weak

The Pitbull features a long 9-inch, 14mm thick hardened steel shackle that makes it easy to wrap around your bike frame and a fixed object. The bolting mechanism locks the shackle at four separate points. The lock features both a rubber coating and molded plastic covers to protect your bike’s finish. The locking bar is constructed with a lot of plastic, which could present a weak point during an attack. 

But the lock cylinder is also centered on the bar, which eliminates potential prying points. I made a few futile efforts at cutting the shackle with bolt cutters, but the lock withstood the attack with barely a scuff. The 14mm-thick steel shackle can certainly be cut with an angle grinder and enough time, though. 

Best shackle construction

Weight : 3.2 pounds Shackle length: 9 inches

Pros : Long shackle Cons: Expensive

The Granite X Plus U-Lock features a super-long 9-inch shackle (4.5 inches wide), which opens up more locking possibilities. The shackle features a squared profile, which makes it more difficult to cut with bolt cutters. And the shackle is locked and secured at both ends to make it more difficult to pick the lock. 

Abus was one of the few brands in the test to note this lock had been ice-spray tested. It gets an ART rating of 3 out of 5 stars, but it’s marked as Abus’s maximum security level. It also has a Sold Secure rating. The shackle and bar are both coated to protect your bike’s finish. It’s a great lock if you want as much shackle length as possible, but you’ll pay for the privilege.

Lightest U-Lock

Weight : 1.05 pounds Shackle length : 8 inches

Pros : Super light and resistant to bolt cutter attacks; lighweight Cons : Can be more difficult to work into place than traditional U-Locks

By using spring steel, Tigr has created a unique take on the standard U-lock. It was resistant to attack from my 24-inch bolt cutters, but it would not be overly difficult to cut it with an angle grinder. It’s light at just over a pound, and it comes with a mount so you can stow it right on your bike. It fits easily in a backpack too. 

It can be a bit more difficult to work this lock into place than standard U-locks that separate into two pieces. It gets a 2/5 ART certification, so this may not be the lock you’ll want for long-term lockups. But for quick trips into the store or an hour or two at the bar, the Tigr Blue Mini + offers good security at a super light weight. 

Best chain lock

Length : 25 inches Weight : 14.8 pounds

Pros : Big, burly, intimidating, and secure Cons : Very, very heavy

The legend. The beast. This lock has long been used by New York City messengers who lock their bikes up in heavily trafficked areas, sometimes for long periods of time. It’s super heavy and not particularly comfortable to wear over your shoulder. But if you’re looking for the pinnacle in protection, the Legend may be your best bet. It combines heavy duty construction with the flexibility to lock your bike in various locking situations. 

I did make a token effort at cutting a link with my bolt cutters, but it was clear from the get-go these links weren’t breaking for anything less than an angle grinder and some determination. The Legend is also one of the very few bike locks to earn a 5-star ART rating. It’s called the Legend for a reason.

Best chain lock on a budget

Length : 3.5 feet Weight : 6.86 pounds

Pros : Locking mechanism is integrated into the chain; good price Cons : Quite heavy

The OnGuard’s titanium-enforced hexagonal hardened steel chain links aren’t as big and thick as Kryptonite’s Legend chain lock, but the Mastiff weighs almost eight pounds less. It was impervious to my attacks with a 24-inch bolt cutter, but it could be cut with an angle grinder in 30 seconds or so. 

Unlike the Kryptonite Legend, which uses a separate U-lock to secure the ends of the chain, OnGuard integrates the locking mechanism into the lock itself. That’s one less thing to keep track of — or lose. OnGuard does offer up to $2,001 in anti-theft protection, though you’ll need to register your bike with the company. The Mastiff comes with 5 keys, and the locking mechanism bolts secure in two locations for resistance to pulling and twisting. 

Built-in alarm

Length : 3 feet Weight : 3 pounds

Pros : Alarm is a neat feature to deter casual thieves Cons : Looks and feels clunky when mounted to a bike

While the Adaptor Chain included with the Alarm Box 2.0 can be cut with a pair of bolt cutters and some elbow grease, thieves may be additionally deterred by the Alarm Box’s primary feature: a 100 decibel alarm that sounds with excess movement or tampering. 

If the bike just gets slightly jostled, a five-second ‘warning’ alarm will sound. If the movement continues, then the 100-decibel alarm kicks in. The chain measures just over 3 feet, making it easy to lock to a variety of solid racks or bars. It’s also possible to affix the Alarm Box to your bike without the use of the chain. 

Best Folding Lock

Circumference : 33.5 inches Weight : 2.2 pounds

Pros : Smooth and easy operation Cons : Circumference when open could be slightly larger

Buttery smooth articulation and a compact design that slides easily into the included mount make the Seatylock Foldylock compact  the best folding lock we tested. The 33.5-inch circumference of the lock when fully open is slightly smaller than the Kryptonite Evolution 790, but large enough to open up plenty of locking possibilities. 

The rivets connecting the bars are designed to resist sawing and cutting attacks. The rounded heads of the rivets make it difficult to drill through as well. A thief would need an angle grinder to get through the Foldylock’s stout bars. The lock comes with a 3-year warranty, too. The Foldylock Compact meets the right combination of weight, compact design at 7.5 inches long when folded, and locking capabilities to make it best in the folding lock category. 

Most versatile folding lock

Circumference : 35 inches Weight : 3.15 pounds 

Pros : Big circumference; cool frame mount Cons : Hinges are a bit stiff

Like all folding locks, the Evolution 790 only moves two-dimensionally, making locking in certain situations trickier. But it has the biggest circumference of the three we tested, so you’ll have plenty of wiggle room to secure your bike. While not a major issue, the hinges don’t move as smoothly as other options in this category. 

The lock includes a pretty neat mount that holds the lock tightly until you press a release button. But I wonder if more moving parts makes it more susceptible to failure over time. The slim profile when folded makes it a good option for stowing in a backpack. I chopped at this lock with my 24-inch bolt cutters, made a few scratches, then gave up. 

Most compact folding lock

Circumference: 27 inches Weight : 1.5 pounds

Pros : Folds down small and stores easily; affordable; fairly light Cons : Small circumference

The Hendrix is compact and easy to use. A plastic mount is included so you can secure the Hendrix to your bike. The lock would just as easily stow in a backpack, or in a jersey pocket — though it’s a touch heavy, so it will likely pull on your jersey enough to become uncomfortable. 

The overall circumference when the lock is completely unfolded is a bit small, which limits where you can use the lock. And like all folding locks, the Hendrix only articulates in a linear fashion. It’s a handy and portable lock that’s easy to toss in a backpack. I was almost able to cut through the lock with my 24-inch bolt cutters, but despite repeated cuts and lots of twisting, the lock withstood the attack — just barely.

Best cable lock

Type : Synthetic rope with steel core Length : 47 inches Weight : 3.1 pounds

Pros : Super flexible Cons : Gets dirty easily

The Eyelet from Tex Lock feels an awful lot like a synthetic rope. That’s because it basically is — with a steel core surprise. The combination of the three rope layers and the steel core make this light and flexible lock tough to cut quickly. Add in the U-lock and you’ve got a lock that will delay any would-be thief for a good long while, even with the right tools. The Eyelet is light and comfortable to wear over your shoulder. 

It looks cool, too, though it picks up dirt rather quickly. And more importantly, it’s easy to loop it through your bike and stationary poles or the like. There are lots of locking and storing possibilities here, and with three lengths to choose from; I tested the 120cm (47 inch) version and found it to be the perfect length in most locking situations, there’s a Tex Lock for everyone. 

Best compact cable lock

Type : Flat strap with combination Length : 18-60 inches Weight : 14 ounces

Pros : Super compact, easy to stow in a jersey pocket; quite light Cons : Can be cut with 24-inch bolt cutters quickly

This super-compact lock is easy to use and best for stowing in a jersey pocket for quick in and out trips at the coffee shop, but it’s not ideal for long-term storage security. I cut this lock very easily with a set of 24-inch bolt cutters, but the six stainless steel bands encased in Kevlar will slow down any would-be thieves with smaller cutters. 

And I could not get through the band with sheet metal cutters or a small pair of diagonal cutting pliers — the types of tools thieves can stuff in their pockets. If you want a bit of added security, pair this lock with Ottolock’s Sidekick U-Lock (sold separately). The three number tumblers can sometimes be hard to position correctly because they’re so small, but otherwise, the Hexband is super simple to use. The lock is available in three sizes (18, 30, and 60 inches) and multiple colors.

Think carefully about your needs in order to choose the best bike lock for you. For starters, think about how much security you’ll actually need. If, for example, you’ll be leaving your bicycle locked outside your apartment or office building for hours or even days at a time, you’ll want a heavier-duty lock. But if you’re only popping into the coffee shop for a few minutes, a lighter, more portable lock might do the trick.

Portability is an important consideration as well. A lock you don’t want to carry with you is a lock you’re likely to leave at home. Some locks are small enough to fit in a jersey pocket, while others will need a dedicated mounting space on your bike or some real estate in a backpack. 

While not always the case, locks that focus on portability will sacrifice some burliness by necessity. So smaller, thinner locks may be more susceptible to common tools that thieves use. Still, even a small and portable lock will offer some theft deterrence for quick lockups outside the coffee shop or grocery store. Try to decide whether you’ll need more portability or more theft deterrence. You can always buy two different types of locks to fit different needs, too. 

The lock’s weight matters too, and while that’s closely related to portability, it is entirely possible to find a strong, durable lock that doesn’t weigh a ton and packs down relatively small. Weight becomes more of a concern if you’re stowing the lock in a pocket or backpack. It can be less impactful if you’re mounting the lock on your bike. 

That said, the heaviest-duty locks are also, well, quite heavy. Such locks are best for locking your bike long-term in high-theft areas. But they won’t feel too great in a backpack or slung over your shoulder.

The theft deterrence level depends largely on the materials used to create the lock and the overall design. Keeping in mind that any lock can be cut or destroyed with the right tools, you can hedge your bets by choosing a lock with heavy-duty materials like steel chain links or a U-Lock with a steel shackle. Cable locks can be cut quickly and easily with bolt cutters, but burlier locks will require heavier-duty tools like an angle grinder. The odds of a thief walking down the street with an angle grinder are much lower than a thief equipped with bolt cutters, so heavier-duty locks can act as a deterrent without ever having to face an actual attack.

Finally, prices for bike locks can vary widely, from $20 all the way up to $300 or more. Choose a lock within your budget, and keep in mind that just because a lock is expensive doesn’t mean it’s better for your needs. Consider all of the above criteria before plunking down your credit card. 

Chain locks vs. U-Locks vs. folding locks

Chain locks differ from U-Locks and folding locks in construction and capability. Chain locks are built with chain links and are connected at the ends with either a small U-lock or an integrated locking unit. 

U-Locks feature a U-shaped metal shackle that inserts into a locking mechanism. And a folding lock features metal links that pivot to open up in a wide circle, then fold up for easy storage.

Each type of lock has distinct advantages and disadvantages. Chain locks are very durable, easy to lock around a variety of fixed objects, and depending on the size of the links, they can be worn around the shoulder for easy transport, and they are very resistant to theft attacks. But such locks can be quite heavy, especially as the links get larger.

U-locks are one of the most common types of locks because they are resistant to all sorts of cutting tools. They stow easily in a backpack, too, and can even mount cleanly on your bike. They, too, can get quite heavy when you get into longer shackle U-locks. U-locks are also limited in locking capabilities because the shackles often don’t reach far enough to be useful.

Folding locks solve that problem by extending outward to create more locking opportunities. The articulated arms extend to form a large circle. These locks fold up compact and can be stowed easily in a backpack or mounted on your bike. The pivots that connect the arms can be a weak point, however, making these locks susceptible to drilling or leverage attacks. 

Portability, price, weight, and ease of use are all fairly easy to determine by simply taking the lock with you on various rides around town. So that’s exactly what I did with each lock in the test. From coffee shops to train stations, I locked up my bike for quick trips and all-day storage. Fortunately, no thieves came upon my bike; if they did, they were deterred enough by the locks to move on. 

I cut a random sampling of locks using both bolt cutters and an angle grinder to get a sense of the effort that goes into it. Not surprisingly, I was able to destroy each one, though the time and effort it took varied quite a lot. Round cables were the easiest to cut with 24-inch bolt cutters I had on hand; large-diameter chains and U-lock shackles were the most difficult and required the use of an angle grinder.

But as mentioned previously, it’s possible to cut through or otherwise destroy any bike lock on the market with the right tools and enough time and determination. With that in mind, we examined each lock for potential weaknesses or obvious flaws that might make cutting or destroying easier. 

Are there testing and design standards for bike locks?

The two most common security ratings you’ll find on bike locks are the Sold Secure designation (Bronze, Silver, Gold, and Diamond), and the ART star rating (5 stars is the highest rating and sparingly bestowed upon locks). 

Manufacturers may also include their own in-house security ratings to give buyers a sense of how much theft deterrence they can expect from a specific lock. Such ratings do not necessarily adhere to any independent scale or rating. 

Can all bike locks be cut?

Yes. With the right tools and enough time, any bike lock can be cut or otherwise destroyed. It is important to keep in mind that even if a lock can be destroyed, it may take a thief a prohibitively long time to get through the lock with the tools on hand. So locks still serve an important function even if they can be cut. 

Should I still use a bike lock even if I know it can be cut?

Yes. The vast majority of thieves are opportunists. If they can’t grab the bike and go, they are less likely to make an attempt to steal it. A tough lock that actually looks tough to destroy may deter a thief from spending the time and effort to steal your bike. 

What tools do thieves use to cut locks?

The most common tool bike thieves use is a pair of bolt cutters. These can cut through most cable locks and even some U-locks, but other U-Locks and chain locks will require an angle grinder. Angle grinders are quite loud and throw a lot of sparks, so if your lock can withstand bolt cutter attacks, it’s already well ahead in the safety game. For the toughest locks, thieves may use torches or other heavy-duty tools. Less commonly, thieves may use chemicals that will freeze the lock, making it more susceptible to damage. 

Will a lock brand cover the cost of my bike if it gets stolen?

Some brands like Kryptonite and OnGuard do have programs that will reimburse you up to a certain dollar amount if your bike gets stolen. This requires a registration process, and you’ll want to read the fine print regarding what is actually covered. Other brands may have programs that will replace the lock if your bike gets stolen, but not the cost of the bike itself. Both of these options are generally considered ‘add-ons’ and may require additional purchases. 

How should I carry my bike lock?

That largely depends on the size and shape of the lock. Some small locks can be stowed in your jersey pocket. Larger locks may require you to carry a backpack or other storage solution. And many locks come with specially designed mounts that you can connect directly to your bike. Ultimately, you should carry your lock however it is most convenient for you. 

Do bike locks require maintenance?

Not usually. But if your lock is exposed regularly to the elements, you may notice degradation. Key cylinders and combination locks in particular may become more difficult to operate in these cases, though often you can spray those parts with some lubrication to restore functionality. 

Do bike locks wear out?

Yes, but not quickly in most cases. Regular and/or prolonged exposure to sunlight, rain, snow, dirt, and mud will accelerate wear. Any moving parts are more susceptible to wear over time, such as hinges, lock cylinders, combination tumblers, etc. If you notice premature wear or damage to your lock, your best bet is to contact the manufacturer to see if it is covered under warranty. 

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Dan Cavallari

Dan Cavallari is the former technical editor for VeloNews Magazine, who currently reviews electric bikes, bike lights, and other bike accessories for Tom's Guide. In addition to VeloNews, his work has appeared in Triathlete Magazine, Rouleur Magazine, CyclingTips.com, Road Bike Action, Mountain Bike Action, CycleVolta.com, Tomsguide.com, and much more. Dan also hosts two podcasts on his site, Slow Guy on the Fast Ride: One is about cycling and other outdoor activities, while the other looks at mental health issues. Most recently, Dan also covered the 2022 Tour de France. Dan lives outside of Denver, Colorado with his family.

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Locks/Security

Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit (5 feet)

The Best Bike Lock

Our pick for best bike lock, the Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 With Double Loop Cable, shown installed on a bike.

Although pandemic-related bike shortages have eased, bike thieves are still a persistent plague . The first line of defense: a good bike lock.

To find the best bike lock, we ordered 33 of the toughest we could find and then sawed, chopped, and cut them to pieces.

We learned that almost every lock can be defeated in under a minute, but the Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 offers enough of a security advantage over other locks in its price range to keep a modest commuter bike from becoming an easy target for thieves.

Everything we recommend

trek bike lock

Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 With Double Loop Cable

The best bike lock.

With a dual-locking hardened 13 mm shackle, an included cable, and a free year of anti-theft protection, the Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 is a good deterrent at a reasonable price.

Buying Options

Upgrade pick.

trek bike lock

Kryptonite New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini

An even stronger lock.

This lock is more secure than our top pick, but it also weighs a lot more.

trek bike lock

Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Chain

Best chain for the money.

If you need more length in your lock and weight is of little concern, the 10-pound Fahgettaboudit Chain is really tough.

trek bike lock

Kryptonite Keeper 585

A medium-security folding lock.

This relatively lightweight folding lock can wrap around odd angles more easily than a U-lock and is more secure than a cable lock—but it’s not nearly as strong as a chain, and it’s pricey, too.

Things to know

No lock can keep a determined thief at bay forever . But a good one might persuade that thief to move on to an easier target.

Using hacksaws, two sizes of bolt cutters, cordless drills, and angle grinders, we destroyed 33 bike locks from 14 companies .

Our main pick , upgrade pick , and favorite chain come with insurance, but you have to register your lock for it to take effect.

The insurance on our upgrade pick covers bikes in Manhattan (unlike our main pick’s).

The Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 should withstand attacks from everything but power tools under most circumstances.

Once our testing began, we immediately saw the huge advantage this lock had over the competition: Its 13-millimeter hardened shackle (the big U-shaped loop that gives U-locks their name) can withstand bolt cutters, eliminating a large percentage of potential thieves.

Measuring 7 inches long and weighing a little under 3 pounds, it’s the perfect size for most people—long enough to lock the wheel and frame of most bicycles to a rack while leaving almost no room for someone to wedge a pry bar or a car jack inside it.

On top of that, the shackle in this design has an additional cutout at the end, which makes rotating (and therefore removing) it after cutting it even more difficult.

The New-U Evolution Mini-7 uses a disc-detainer locking mechanism, which is much harder to pick than a typical wafer lock and should foil all but the most savvy criminal using specialty tools.

It also comes with a 4-foot cable to secure the front wheel, plus a free year of Kryptonite’s anti-theft protection . Two caveats on the latter: You must register your lock within 30 days of buying it, and the anti-theft protection on this lock does not apply to residents of Manhattan, where theft is very high. (The company’s New York lock series—including our upgrade pick and the chain pick below—is covered even in Manhattan.)

With an 18 mm dual-locking hardened shackle, the Kryptonite New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini held up better than any other lock—except one—against cutting attacks. (That exception is the Hiplok D1000, which costs $300; see “ What about the Hiplok D1000? ” for more about it.) Even with a powered cut-off wheel, our testers took over a minute to make the two cuts necessary to remove it—four times longer to grind through than with the New-U Evolution Mini-7. However, this lock doesn’t come with a cable, and it weighs almost 4.5 pounds, a full pound and a half more than the Mini-7. But if you’re in a high-risk area, and can’t spend $300, this lock is the one to buy. Like our top pick, it uses a very secure disc-detainer mechanism, and it’s long enough to fit around your bike’s frame and your wheel without becoming too cumbersome. For extra peace of mind, it also comes with a free year of the highest level ($5,000) of anti-theft coverage from Kryptonite. (Again, you have to register your lock within 30 days of purchase for the coverage to take effect.)

If you want to secure more than just your bike frame and wheel, if you have a cargo or electric bike that needs a longer lock, or if your favorite spot to lock up is around a street post, go with the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Chain , which is one of the toughest chain locks we tested. We encountered other chain locks that were harder to cut through, but they either cost more or weighed more. It has 3 feet of 14 mm hardened links held together by a 15 mm Kryptonite New York Disc Lock, and it should keep all but the most determined thieves at bay.

If security is your only concern, we recommend skipping a folding lock altogether because the rivets are easy to break. But there are a few special requirements that folding locks can accommodate that other options can’t: You can lock them around large or strange shapes like handrails or lamp posts, they’re much sturdier than cables, and they’re a lot lighter than chains (and a pound lighter than our top U-lock pick, even minus its cable). We believe the Kryptonite Keeper 585 offers the best combination of security, weight, and price among folding locks. It also comes in a longer, 100 cm (39-inch) version, the Keeper 510 .

The Keeper 585 measures 85 cm (32 inches) long, weighs 1.7 pounds, has 3 mm hardened steel rivets, and comes with $500 of anti-theft protection from Kryptonite. Is your bike worth thousands more than $500? That should tell you everything you need to know—get a stronger lock.

The research

Why you should trust us, who this is for, how we picked, how we tested, our pick: kryptonite new-u evolution mini-7 with double loop cable, upgrade pick: kryptonite new-u new york fahgettaboudit mini, also great: kryptonite new york fahgettaboudit chain, also great: kryptonite keeper 585, what about the hiplok d1000, other good bike locks, the competition, care and maintenance.

Duncan Niederlitz has worked in the bicycle industry since 2002 on both coasts of the United States, as well as abroad. He has owned many of the locks we’ve tested and has worked at shops selling all of them, occasionally having to cut them off bikes. Between that and the work he did for this guide, he has spent hundreds of hours researching, selling, using, and testing bike locks.

Eve O’Neill, a former senior staff writer covering outdoor gear for Wirecutter, started in 2014 as our first bike reporter.

We contacted John Edgar Park , an avid lock-picking enthusiast and instructor with over 20 years of experience, and we sat down together to review all the locks we had received to vet them for lock-picking vulnerabilities. In addition, we made arrangements to get in touch with a lock-picking group, and we visited on a night with a presentation on high-security disc-detainer locks. The meeting was in an unmarked room in an unmarked building, and everyone who gave a presentation used their Def Con code names.

We also corresponded with Mark Podob of Metlab , a heat-treating and metallurgic-consulting company, to gain insight into how locks are constructed.

We ended up choosing four Kryptonite locks, and we know how that kind of thing can look. But we think the data speaks for itself. Duncan was working at a bike shop in 2004 when the Bic pen fiasco went down (he appeared on the local news station demonstrating the technique), so we approached this guide with a skeptical view regarding any lock manufacturer’s claims.

If you ride a bike and ever need to leave it unattended, you should carry (and use) a sturdy bike lock—at least if you want the bike to be there waiting for you when you return. And if you live in an area where garage or apartment-building bike-room break-ins are common, you may even want to lock your bike up when it’s seemingly safe at home, too. Unfortunately, as we’ve discovered through both our testing and our own painful experience, no lock can keep a determined bike thief at bay forever. However, a good one might persuade that thief to move on to a less well-defended target.

We spent many hours researching all the locks available from the major brands in the bicycle industry, attended trade shows to see not-yet-available options, reviewed earlier versions of this guide, and searched for well-reviewed locks from smaller companies or lesser-known brands.

Manufacturers make locks in a range of similar styles. Considering their supposedly different levels of security and proprietary ratings systems, however, it can be hard to decide which locks are comparable, other than blindly going by price or researching the ratings from independent organizations such as ART in the Netherlands and Sold Secure in England. Unfortunately these institutions use different rating scales, and not all lock manufacturers submit all of their locks to be tested. And although these independent labs return a rating, they do not make the reasoning behind the rating (or the tests they used to come to that conclusion) available to the public, so looking at their ratings still gave us only a rough idea of the security of any one lock.

We decided that our only way forward was to order the most expensive locks from every company we could and test them to destruction to set a baseline for what each company considered its highest level of security. We then ordered the budget locks from our previous guide, as well as some of the upgrades from companies that had finished well in our first round of tests, and destructively tested all of those, too. We eventually destroyed 35 locks from ABUS, Altor, Artago, Blackburn, Foldylock, Hiplok, Knog, Kryptonite, Litelok, Master Lock, OnGuard, RockyMounts, Schlage, and TiGr.

Numerous bike locks of various types that were part of our tests, shown spread out on the floor.

To truly test the effectiveness of a bike lock, you have to think like a bike thief. From our experiences working in shops over the years and interviewing professional bike thieves (yes, we’ve done that), we created a list of the most common tools that bicycle thieves use to defeat bike locks. It became the checklist that each model in our group of locks would need to survive to become a pick.

To be clear, the following is not a guide to stealing bikes. But to assess the security of bike locks, you have to really understand how they get stolen in the first place.

Lock picks: These require a lot of skill to use, and different locks require assorted tools and pose varying degrees of difficulty to pick. However, once a thief has the tools and the proficiency to quickly open a particular lock, the process merely becomes a matter of walking the streets and looking through racks of bikes for a target lock they recognize as being easy to open.

Cable cutters: Thieves carry out a large number of bike thefts (possibly most of them) using a simple pair of diagonal wire cutters. Unfortunately, the only reason simple diagonal cutters are so effective is that many people continue to lock their bicycles using just a braided steel cable and a padlock or a basic cable lock , even though such devices should be used strictly as accessory locks in most situations. A good set of bypass cutters can cut these locks in a single pass, and a tiny set of diagonal cutters can do so with multiple snips.

Bolt cutters: During Duncan’s work in shops over the years, he has heard hundreds of stolen-bike stories and has seen many cut locks, and most of them (not including snipped cable locks) have been cut with bolt cutters. Bolt cutters can be quite small and are quick to cut through certain kinds of locks.

Hacksaw: A hacksaw can work through a nonhardened lock quickly. Most chains from the hardware store, cheap U-locks, and cable locks can be defeated with a hacksaw. A hacksaw can be slow on a thicker lock, may catch and bind while trying to cut through a cable, and takes some physical effort to use in general.

Cordless drill: This is a rarer tool for bike thieves, as it works well on only a few types of locks, and most of those are also easier to defeat using other methods. But occasionally drills do see use (most often during an attempt to drill out a lock’s core). The locks that drills work well on (such as folding locks ) have become more popular, though.

Angle grinder: A thief with a battery-powered angle grinder will defeat any lock if given enough time—even the Hiplok D1000, though the thief had better be carrying a pile of spare disc blades to crack that lock. For the thief, the biggest drawback of a grinder is the noise and sparks it emits as it grinds through hardened steel. In the past, cordless tools didn’t have the power for such uses, but battery technology has advanced enough that they can perform just as well as their corded counterparts, and thus they have changed the landscape of bicycle security. It’s hard not to notice one of these tools, but a thief who can mask the noise and is brazen enough to use one will probably be successful in stealing the bike.

We did not pry open any locks with car jacks, because the jack would have to fit inside the shackle. You can make that kind of attack more difficult by using good locking technique, which means choosing a lock size that leaves very little room inside the shackle to fit a tool—all of the locks we tested were too small to accommodate a jack.

After we had our list, we needed to decide how the results of the tests would allow us to rank the locks. We believe that any form of security is only as good as its weakest part—think of a locked house with an open window, for instance, or a computer operating system with a backdoor. So we decided that the more quickly a lock could be opened, regardless of how well it performed in other respects, the lower it would score.

The first test would show if any of the locks could be picked (some could). The second would reveal whether any would fall victim to bolt cutters (some did), hacksawing (sadly), or drilling (no problem). The last would demonstrate how long each lock would take to cut through with an inexpensive portable angle grinder (quicker than you might think). After we completed all the tests, we ranked the locks based on their security and price to see where they stood, and then we factored in features such as durability, weight, portability, and ease of use.

The testing methods

Lock picking.

We contacted John Edgar Park , an avid lock-picking enthusiast and instructor with over 20 years of experience, and we sat down together to review all the locks we had received. With a quick visual inspection and a few pokes from one of the many pointy tools he had brought along in a folding leather pouch, Park immediately singled out how each mechanism worked and the easiest way to defeat each lock. Park also taught us how to pick a lock, which he managed to do to one model in less than 30 seconds. It’s a simple raking technique (video) that requires little skill and basic tools; someone could do it with a couple of pieces of scrap metal from a car’s wiper blade or a pair of bobby pins. And we had always thought MacGyver was a joke!

Just to be sure, we also got in touch with a lock-picking group, and we visited on a night with a presentation on disc-detainer locks, a type of high-security mechanism used in some bike locks. The meeting was in an unmarked room in an unmarked building. We learned that even the more basic disc-detainer locks we brought were very hard to pick, and nobody at the meeting had the proper tools to fit the smaller keyways most bicycle locks use. As a result, we came away confident that disc-detainer styles were secure against most lock-picking thieves.

In February 2021, a YouTube expert who goes by the name LockPickingLawyer posted a video in which he said that tools for picking disc-detainer locks were becoming more common—in fact, he designed one himself that’s now available online and that he used to open our top pick in 46 seconds and our upgrade pick in 58 seconds. Given that the brute-force methods we tried took even less time to destroy a lock, though, we remain less worried about lock picking than we do about bolt cutters and angle grinders.

Bolt cutters

Two sizes of bolt cutters sitting on a concrete floor.

The next test: bolt cutters. These tools are available at any home improvement store and usually make a sound during a theft only after it’s too late, when the lock splits apart and the thief is off with your bike. You could be within 20 feet of your bike and still not hear it. For our tests we used cutters of two lengths, a 24-inch HDX pair from Home Depot and a 36-inch Tekton 3421.

Some of the locks we tested claimed to be resistant, but most of them fell to our bolt cutters eventually. The easiest U-locks to cut through appeared to be only case-hardened , which seems to do little to stop bolt cutters since the tool’s jaws can crush and split the softer metal underneath the hardened shell. More expensive locks are hardened more thoroughly, via a different heat-treating process .

A close-up of the metal of a black and yellow bike lock cut through with a bolt cutter.

We weren’t expecting notable results from the hacksaw test, as even modest case-hardened steel usually deters a hacksaw. However, the Altor and TiGr locks we tested were both made of titanium, which is tough but not very hard, and the hacksaw proved that: With the hacksaw, we cut through each lock, held in a vise, in less than 30 seconds. Using the vise probably resulted in a cut time quicker than that of most real-world scenarios, but practiced thieves have vise-like tricks (using zip ties or leaning against the bike to steady it). The RockyMounts U-lock we tested used stainless steel, a material rarely found in bicycle locks, which to our eyes appeared to have been left unhardened; despite the lock’s large shackle diameter, our hacksaw cut through in just 90 seconds.

A steel bike lock cut in half with a silver and yellow hacksaw.

Cordless drill

Although a small cordless drill is louder than bolt cutters, it’s still barely noticeable over the sounds of a busy street. The drill we used in our testing was a 12 V Milwaukee Fuel, which is small enough to put into a jacket pocket. While the Altor gave in to the bolt cutters and the ABUS Folding Lock Bordo Granit X-Plus did as well after much effort on our part, the drill easily defeated both. A quick look was all we needed to see that the hinge was probably the weakest component of each system, and we quickly removed the locks by drilling straight through the rivet holding the hinge together.

A close-up of the broken hinge on the black and silver ABUS folding lock.

Angle grinder

We knew all the locks would fall to the 7,000 rpm of an aluminum-oxide disc—we just weren’t sure how long it would take. After years of hearing anecdotes from bike-shop customers, reading marketing literature, and removing the odd lock here and there, we expected it would take more than a minute for us to complete one cut.

We charged all the batteries we had for our cordless grinder, made extra coffee, and mentally prepared for the hours of grinding that lay ahead of us. Then the first lock took 14 seconds to cut through. The next, 15. Some of the locks couldn’t survive past the 10-second mark; the thickest and strongest ones resisted for only 30 seconds before we made one cut. (In 2022 and 2023, we took an angle grinder to the Hiplok D1000 U-lock, which its makers says resists angle grinders. See “ What about the Hiplok D1000? ” for the results.)

We learned that no lock available at the time (2017) could resist cutting for more than a minute against modern tools, even if it was a chain or had a dual-locking shackle and needed two cuts for removal. Granted, we did these tests under ideal circumstances with each lock in a vise to create an equal setting for the locks, but after testing locks in more awkward and unrestrained positions and seeing only a marginal increase in time, we can say that our results aren’t too far off from what you can expect in the real world. Even if it’s painfully obvious that a bike is being stolen, it seems to barely cause any alarm or attract attention, as demonstrated in one of our favorite videos .

So why bother to lock a bike? It unfortunately comes down to beating the bike owners around you—after all, you don’t need to outrun the bear, you just need to outrun the other person with you. If you can ride a less expensive bike and lock it up properly with a better lock in a safer location, you can remove the temptation for a thief to pick your bike over an easier target.

A close-up of a wheel and post locked using the Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 u-lock.

The Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7 U-lock incorporates a wider combination of theft-resistant features than almost anything we’ve looked at that isn’t twice the price or twice as heavy. It has a more thoroughly hardened, dual-locking shackle, which lesser locks don’t have, and it’s outfitted with a more secure disc-detainer locking mechanism. It also comes with a 4-foot cable and a free year of the company’s anti-theft protection (as long as you don’t live in Manhattan and you remember to register your lock within 30 days of purchase). This model is nearly $30 more expensive than the New-U KryptoLok Standard , which shares some of its technology (specifically, the locking mechanism and the dual-deadbolt shackle), but it includes a year of Kryptonite’s protection coverage , up to $2,500. (You have to pay $10 for the first year of protection on the KryptoLok, and that coverage pays up to $1,750 at most.)

Instead of using just a case-hardened shackle, the Evolution series uses a harder steel shackle and a hardening process that, while not technically “through hardened,” still allowed the Mini-7 to withstand more abuse in our tests than other locks at the same price. We cut lesser locks with only 24-inch bolt cutters, but the New-U Evolution Mini-7 withstood even our 36-inch cutters, surviving with just a couple of small scratches.

The New-U Evolution line also uses deadbolts on both sides of the shackle, rather than having a non-locking bent foot on one end. The advantage of the new shackle is that a thief would most likely need to make two cuts with a power tool to pry it open. And after making those cuts, the thief would need to twist the shackle off; on the New-U series, Kryptonite has added a small cutout to each end, making it that much harder to twist off.

The lock also incorporates the more secure disc-detainer locking mechanism. This style of keyway and mechanism is resistant to picking, requiring specialty tools, patience, and skills. After consulting with multiple lock-picking enthusiasts and experts, we decided that the chances of having a disc-detainer lock picked on the street are very slim, in contrast to the likelihood for some of the other lock types we tested. (The YouTube personality LockPickingLawyer posted a video in February 2021 demonstrating how, with a tool he designed, he was able to pick the New-U Evolution in less than a minute. However, considering his level of expertise and the conditions he was working in—able to hold the lock in his hands under good lighting—we believe that brute-force attacks pose more of a problem in real life.)

A close-up of the dual locking sides of our pick for best bike lock, the Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7.

The New-U Evolution has a durable protective rubber coating on all the main parts to prevent scratches on your bike’s paint. It’s also available in multiple sizes, but we think the 7-inch size (which weighs about 3.5 pounds, cable included) is ideal for most people. If you are commuting on a bike with large tires and need to lock both wheels, the Mini-7 might not be long enough to fit over the tire and frame. You can solve that problem by adding locking wheel skewers , but Kryptonite also sells the New-U Evolution in a larger size without the cable. If you are unsure about the fit, swing by your local shop to check.

Flaws but not dealbreakers

We still believe that thanks to the hardness of the shackle and the difficulty of squeezing a car jack into a properly locked New-U Evolution Mini-7, it will thwart most attacks (other than with an angle grinder) better than any other lock at this price. But if you’re in a high-risk area or if you live in Manhattan, where the only locks covered by Kryptonite’s anti-theft protection are the New York series, you should probably upgrade to the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit. And if you own a particularly expensive or hard-to-replace bike, you might even want to consider the Hiplok D1000 .

And although the Mini-7 comes with one of the better mounts for attaching it to a bike frame, that isn’t saying much. U-locks are the bane of bicycle mechanics everywhere because the mounts always seem to be in an awkward spot or to come loose over time. If at all possible, carrying this lock on a rack or in a basket is definitely the preferred method, but the mount will suffice.

A bike locked to a post with the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini U-lock.

The Kryptonite New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini U-lock is a workhorse. You won’t find any special features or frills, just a lot of lock—4.55 pounds’ worth. It uses a through-hardened dual-locking shackle and extra metal in the crossbar for even more security. The 18 mm shackle has a cross-sectional area twice that of the New-U Evolution’s 13 mm shackle and thus takes twice as long to cut through. Since this lock is in Kryptonite’s New York series of locks, it’s covered by the company’s theft protection even in Manhattan (The coverage is for $5,000—or the cost of your insurance deductible, should the theft be covered—and it’s free for the first year. You can extend it for up to five years, for an additional cost of up to $35.)

Like the New-U Evolution, this lock employs a disc-detainer locking mechanism; also like the New-U Evolution, the New-U New York Fahgettaboudit wasn’t able to withstand the attentions of YouTuber LockPickingLawyer for more than a minute. However, as with the New-U Evolution, we’re less concerned about lock picking than we are about bolt cutters and angle grinders.

A close-up of the gnarled post of the New York Fahgettaboudit Mini U-lock cut in half.

The only significant downside to this lock, other than an increase in price over the New-U Evolution, is that it’s much heavier. But as our tests showed, a more hardened metal (and more of it) is the key to more security. The New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini also does not include any mounting hardware for attaching it to your frame (though we doubt that the mount would even stay in place considering this lock’s weight), and unlike our top pick it does not come with a cable.

A bike locked to a post with the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Chain.

Sometimes you need a chain lock. The Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Chain is the best chain for the money for high-security situations. It uses 14 mm through-hardened links and comes in a fairly standard 39-inch length (which weighs more than 10 pounds) as well as in a giant, 5-foot version (15-plus pounds). The chain is connected by Kryptonite’s 15 mm New York disc lock, which employs a dual-locking shackle and a disc-detainer mechanism. And because it is in Kryptonite’s New York series of locks, it is covered by the company’s anti-theft protection in Manhattan.

Although we did not take as long to cut through this chain with the angle grinder as we did the New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini, we found that it provided almost as much security; it also had a more usable length. The only chain locks that took us longer to cut though were the Kryptonite New York Legend Chain and the Artago 69T100E , both of which cost significantly more at the time. If you’re particularly concerned about security, we think spending money on a strong second lock to use around the front wheel (in addition to the lock you’re already using on the back of the frame) would be a more savvy purchase and would give you more security for the same amount of money.

A close-up of the Kryptonite Keeper 585, shown folded and in its carrying case mounted to a bike's frame.

There’s a small intersection in the bicycle-lock world, a place where the features of a U-lock, chain, or cable don’t neatly triangulate. Perhaps you regularly find yourself in a location where a U-lock can’t fit around what you’re trying to lock your bike to, but a chain is much too heavy for you to carry, and a cable lock isn’t secure enough (for what it’s worth, we do not recommend cable locks used alone, ever, because they are so easily snipped). In that case, a folding lock might be the solution to your problem, and among models in that category, the Kryptonite Keeper 585 offers the best combination of security, weight, and price.

The Keeper 585 folding lock measures 85 cm (32 inches) long and weighs 1.7 pounds, and it comes with $500 of anti-theft protection from Kryptonite (this protection, as with all Kryptonite locks that are not part of the company’s New York series, is not valid in Manhattan). A folding lock is not very secure because the rivets in the hinges are easily compromised with a drill. And folding locks also don’t provide that much weight or size advantage over a U-lock.

The rivets on the Keeper 585 are 3 mm hardened steel. You can find folding locks that use thicker, 5 mm rivets, such as the Rocky Mounts Hendrix and even other Kryptonite models , but we drilled through them in nearly the same amount of time as we did the smaller rivets. Judging from our findings, we can say it takes a lot more than an additional 2 mm of metal—more like 10 mm (which you’ll find on the 13 mm shackle on our top pick)—to get in the way of power tools.

A bike locked to a circular, metal object with the Kryptonite Keeper 585.

Giving up on those bigger rivets in favor of the Keeper 585 gives you a lock that’s nearly a pound lighter and $10 to $30 cheaper. And it still carries a bronze rating from Sold Secure, the same rating as on all other Kryptonite folding locks, even the bigger, more expensive versions. The folding lock with the highest Sold Secure rating is the ABUS Bordo Granit X-Plus , but that’s 4 pounds of lock that costs over $100. If you need something very strong, such as if you’re trying to lock up an ebike, we recommend passing on a folding lock and getting a fat chain instead—same price, but you get 14 mm of steel versus 5 mm of steel. For greater security, it’s a no-brainer.

In addition, Kryptonite offers an anti-theft warranty with its folding locks, in this case up to $500 in the event the lock is compromised. (Again, you have to register your lock within 30 days of buying it.) This lock also comes in a longer version, the Keeper 510 . It’s the same thing but 100 cm (39 inches) long and an extra 0.2 pound as a result of the longer length.

In the fall of 2021, the British bike lock company Hiplok announced that it had made a lock, the D1000 , using a graphene-reinforced ceramic composite designed to withstand a portable angle grinder, and it launched a Kickstarter campaign to publicize it. After the funding period was over, at the end of October, Hiplok sent us a sample lock ( we don’t test or evaluate products while they’re still in crowdfunding ) that was, they told us, one of the first 30 made. Duncan Niederlitz, who did the lock testing (and destroying) for the 2017 edition of this guide, hauled out his portable angle grinder to demolish the sample lock. He went through two disc blades cutting through the lock on the first try, going very carefully and trying not to let the disc blades catch. On the second attempt, he went faster, pushing harder, and it took five blades to cut through the lock. A third, slower attempt also took five blades. “If I was a thief,” he said, “I’d probably quit after the second wore out—if I even carried a spare.”

In order to be sure that the lock we tested ends up being the same lock regular customers will receive, we ordered two more locks as soon as we could, in May of 2022, on the Hiplok website. When they arrived, late in September, Duncan took one and revved up his angle grinder again. He reported that the lock we bought performed just as well as the preproduction one: “Took another five blades to cut through it once, which left a 0.75-inch gap if pulled apart, so someone would probably need to cut it twice” to actually get it off. (The shackles are square, so you can’t twist them to make the gap wider.) He then tried a metal-cutting diamond blade, which didn’t wear down as the regular blades did, but it took him three minutes and 40 seconds to cut once through the shackle—it lasted far longer than any other lock we’ve tested. And this was, of course, under optimal conditions: in a well-lit area, with a vise holding the lock steady.

Hiplok’s specs say that the lock weighs 1.9 kilograms (4 pounds, 2.8 ounces); our kitchen scale says 1.925 kilograms (4 pounds, 3.9 ounces). Either way, that’s less than our upgrade pick, the Kryptonite New-U New York Fahgettaboudit Mini, weighs. (The two locks are nearly identical in terms of their interior dimensions.) The Hiplok costs twice as much as our upgrade pick, and it doesn’t offer any kind of protection coverage like Kryptonite does. Still, given the results of our testing, we’re weighing making it our upgrade pick later this year, after we’ve seen how the lock withstands other modes of attack and how it stands up to daily life (and dirt, water, and wear) on the streets of New York City. Update: As of May 2023, no would-be thief has tried to defeat the D1000 that one of our NYC-based staff members is using to lock his bike. He’ll keep tempting them.

If you need a lock for a bike-storage room or garage: Consider the Kryptonite New York Legend Chain , which is the strongest chain we tested but too big and heavy to carry around. (It weighs nearly 15 pounds and measures nearly 5 feet long; unlike the New York Fahgettaboudit Chain, it does not come in a shorter, lighter version.) The New York Legend Chain’s bulk makes it best suited as a leave-in-place lock, not one you would bring with you and use multiple times a day.

If you want a folding lock with more anti-theft insurance: Check out the Kryptonite KryptoLok 685 , 610 , and 610 S folding locks, which are all stronger versions of our folding-lock pick. The main difference is that they have rivets measuring 5 mm thick, instead of 3 mm. We wouldn’t spend the extra money on any of them for that reason alone, as in our tests a drill still defeated them easily. However, they all come with a much bigger insurance policy: $1,750, versus the $500 of coverage that comes with our top folding choice. If that’s of value to you, upgrading to one of these versions would be worth the investment. Of the three, we’d choose the 610 S; all other things being equal, the narrower design is nice and gives the 610 S a more streamlined fit if you mount it on a down tube.

Kryptonite Evolution Mini-7 : This model, our previous top pick, was replaced by our current pick, the New-U Evolution Mini-7. (Although you may still see it for sale at some retailers and on Amazon, it no longer appears on Kryptonite’s website.) The main difference is that it locks on only one side, in contrast to the New-U Evolution Mini-7, which has a dual-locking shackle.

Kryptonite New-U KryptoLok Standard : This U-lock employs a disc-detainer mechanism, like the New-U Evolution does, and it now comes with the same double-deadlock design as our top pick. (The version we tested did not.) However, the biggest problem with this lock hasn’t changed: Bolt cutters can cut through it. We believe that spending more on a more-hardened lock, such as the New-U Evolution, could drastically reduce the percentage of thieves with the tools necessary to cut your lock.

Kryptonite KryptoLok Series 2 995 Integrated Chain : This chain’s biggest drawback is that a thief could cut it with bolt cutters, but in our tests the square shape of the 9 mm chain tended to slip out of the jaws of the cutters, and breaking it required quite some work on our part. This model would be a good secondary lock and chain.

Kryptonite New York Cinch : This chain is lighter and less expensive than the New York Fahgettaboudit Chain, and as a result it brings a slight decrease in security. If you already need so much security that you’re considering this model, getting the New York Fahgettaboudit Chain makes more sense.

Kryptonite TKO Folding Bicycle Lock : This folding lock is sold exclusively at Walmart, and for a very tempting price (about $25). It is made by Kryptonite, but that’s all it has in common with our picks. Walmart describes it as a “modern, high-security lock,” but its Kryptonite Security Level is “3”—suitable only for a quick stop in a rural area . Our tester was able to pop the rivets on the one we purchased, using a short length of pipe, in less than 10 seconds.

OnGuard: Generally, OnGuard locks did very well in our strength tests, with cutting times close to those of our top picks. But when we did our testing, we discovered that the huge deficiency of OnGuard locks, including the OnGuard Brute STD , OnGuard Beast 8016 , and OnGuard Pitbull STD , was the lock mechanism itself. At that time, OnGuard used wafer locks, in contrast to the more secure disc-detainer style on our picks; wafer locks are particularly easy to pick without fancy tools or advanced skill. Since then, OnGuard has changed its models’ cylinders to the slider type, which can be more secure depending on how many sliders are involved. We’re putting these locks back on our list to test.

ABUS Folding Lock Bordo Granit X-Plus : Though folding locks are tempting for their light and compact design, they’re not as high-security as their makers claim, as a thief can easily defeat them by drilling out the unhardened pins that hold the links together. With enough patience we were also able to pop this model’s links apart by working large bolt cutters into the joints, as House of Chain demonstrates on a smaller version of the Folding Lock Bordo in this video . The Bordo Granit X-Plus would be okay for low-crime areas, but its price is too high relative to the level of protection it provides.

ABUS Folding Lock Bordo Alarm 6000a : This upgraded version of the ABUS Folding Lock has all the same perks and flaws, with the added annoyance of incessant beeping every time it senses motion.

ABUS U-Lock Granit X-Plus : This U-lock was one of the lightest for its size, and we took significantly less time to cut through it than we did cutting through the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini.

Hiplok Gold : This chain lock has a design that allows you to wear the chain around your waist without locking it. (Wearing one locked is something that you should never do—keys get lost, locks jam, accidents happen, and paramedics need to be able to remove the lock easily in the event of an emergency.) It’s a nice feature, but the cut time for this lock was one of the quickest in our tests, and the real dealbreaker was our ability to snip it quickly with large bolt cutters.

Hiplok D Bike Lock : This lock has a double-locking shackle and is hardened, and we were unable to cut through it with bolt cutters. It uses a wafer-style locking mechanism (which is less secure than the disc-detainer locks on our picks), albeit a much better one than on the OnGuard models we tested; a thief could still pick it with more basic tools than they’d need for a disc-detainer mechanism, but to us it seemed much more secure than any of the OnGuard locks. Even with the dual-locking shackle, though, the Hiplok D showed some movement after one cut in our tests, enough for a thief to remove it from many bike frames.

RockyMounts Compton Large : This 18 mm lock was one of the heaviest we tested. It is made of stainless steel, which is harder than mild steel but definitely not as hard as hardened steel—something we proved in our tests, as we were able to cut through it in just over half the time we took to breach the Artago and Kryptonite locks, both of which also use 18 mm shackles. In addition, this was the least ergonomic lock we tested, with nonrubberized, sharp steel edges. (This lock appears to have since been discontinued.)

TiGr Mini : This has our favorite frame mount of all the locks we’ve tried, but the big dealbreaker is that it easily succumbs to cutting with bolt cutters, despite the maker’s claims to the contrary. We found a severe weak point between the main shackle and the locking mechanism, a gap that permits even small bolt cutters to shear the lock open. Also, titanium is tough but not necessarily hard, and we were able to saw through the TiGr Mini in under 30 seconds when we had it in a vise. TiGr now makes a “hardened steel” version of the lock; that version is on our list of locks to test next.

Litelok One : We found the band of this lock extremely difficult to cut through without power tools. The arrangement of the cables against a flat metal strip is a clever idea and works particularly well for slowing these types of attacks. The dealbreaker: We used just a pair of small bolt cutters against the lock mechanism (this is where most thieves actually cut many cable locks, as it tends to be quicker), and the entire mechanism spread open. A second cut through the post made the lock come apart.

RockyMounts Hendrix : A folding lock, the Hendrix is more compact and slightly lighter (by 0.2 pound) than our folding-lock pick, but that’s because it’s 10 cm shorter (only 74 cm total). That length limits its usefulness—for instance, it didn’t fit the mountain bike we tried it on.

Foldylock Classic : Although this model carries a silver rating from Sold Secure—one step higher than the rating on the Kryptonite Keeper 585—we found security upgrades on folding locks to offer almost negligible benefit. (That is, the rivets on such locks are still vulnerable to drills.) The Foldylock Classic is a pound heavier than our top pick of the same length, and more expensive. The Foldylock Compact , despite being “compact,” has the same problem, as it’s still heavier and more expensive than our pick of the same length. And neither version comes with any theft protection.

Locks take a lot of abuse, from drops to rain to snow to road grime. Luckily, maintaining the locks we’ve chosen is easy: Just open the lock, clean out any grime you can see with a cloth, spray in some degreaser if it’s feeling gritty, and then spray in a dry lube (such as Tri-Flow Superior Dry Lubricant or Finish Line Dry Bike Lubricant ) and rotate the key a few times in the lock. Kryptonite offers easy-to-follow instructions on its website .

This article was edited by Christine Ryan.

John Edgar Park, maker, writer, and lock-picking enthusiast with more 20 years of experience , in-person interview

Mark Podob, vice president of marketing and sales, Metlab , email interview

Shane D. Johnson, Aiden Sidebottom, Adam Thorpe, Problem-Oriented Guides for Police Problem-Specific Guides Series No. 52: Bicycle Theft (PDF) , U.S. Department of Justice , June 1, 2008

Meet your guides

Duncan Niederlitz

trek bike lock

Eve O'Neill

Eve O'Neill is a former senior staff writer reporting on travel and outdoors at Wirecutter. She can remember the titles on her childhood bookshelf that set her in this direction: Into Thin Air, On The Road, The Call of the Wild . She has always been drawn to ideas about how to relate to, and play in, the wilderness.

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Best e-bike locks: Extra-secure U-locks and chain locks to protect your investment

The best e-bike locks need to focus on high security even if that means a bit more bulk

Best e-bike locks: The list in brief

Best overall, best alarmed lock, best on a budget, best for multiple bikes, best folding lock, most grinder-proof, best wearable lock, best chain lock.

  • How to choose

Best e-bike locks: Quick list 1. Best overall 2. Best alarmed lock 3. Best on a budget 4. Best for multiple bikes 5. Best folding lock 6. Most grinder-proof 7. Best wearable lock 8. Best chain lock How to choose

Finding the best e-bike lock presents a unique challenge. On one hand, the experience is similar to other bike security in that nobody wants to walk back to where they parked a bike and find it missing. It doesn't matter what the bike cost, that's a terrible feeling. 

There are some differences though. The best electric bikes for commuting are a vulnerable target and the average price is higher than other commuter bikes. When we talked to Bikeindex.org about the ways in which bikes were being stolen, the one clear data point was the price of lost bikes, and that electric bikes are driving a rise in the average value of the loss. Not only is the average price higher for electric bikes, but with an electric motor helping every turn of the pedals, it's less of an issue if you add a bit of extra weight to your ride. With those basic needs as an outline, we took a look at the work we'd done covering the best bike locks and we tailored it for a new set of needs.

There is some overlap with that list, of course, but this time it's all about security. Gone are the options focused on lightweight low-security quick stops and there's much less focus on what it takes to carry each option. So, if you are in the market for the right lock to keep your prized e-bike safe in every situation keep reading to see our picks for the best e-bike locks. 

An 18mm shackle makes this lock resistant to angle grinder attack. 

Read more below

The SmartX includes an alarm, smart unlocking by phone, and is robust too.

The Onguard Pitbull offers a lot of security for your cash and is available in three sizes.

The Hiplok DXXL is sold for e-bike use, with both a chain and a wearable D-lock included. 

The Abus Bordo Granit 6500 is a high quality folding lock that's easy to carry and use.

The Hiplok Gold Chain Lock is wearable, while the chain is easier to use than a U-lock.

Best e-bike locks available today

You can trust Cyclingnews Our experts spend countless hours testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

1. Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboutit Mini

Specifications, reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

The trick to the New York Fahgettaboutit Mini isn't special technology. It gains its signature name, and promise of protection even in the highest risk scenarios, because of a big thick 18mm shackle. That's a lot of steel to deal with. Unlike the D1000 lower down, it is possible to cut it with an angle grinder. 

That's true of most locks but it's also a lot harder dealing with it locked to a bike on the street than it is in a demonstration while in a vice. One challenge you might run into with the New York Fahgettaboutit Mini and an e-bike though is that it's a small internal size. This keeps it less vulnerable to leverage attacks but it could be a challenge with an e-bike. If you can make it work though we like its price for the amount of security it provides. 

2. Abus SmartX 770A U-Lock

Smart locks are a hot-button issue when it comes to bike security. They have a tendency to worry people because of things such as battery life but in the context of an e-bike, those concerns don't make as much sense. For one thing, many e-bikes allow for external charging and you could plug the lock in if you needed to. 

With normal use though, Abus says to expect around three months of use. The Abus SmartX 770a makes this list because it's both highly secure and highly convenient. From the security standpoint, it takes an already robust lock, the Abus Granite X-Plus 540, and it adds an alarm function. It's always tough to know if anyone will pay any attention to an alarm but with a 13mm double shackle design the lock is strong. 

Then to add that there's the convenience of never having to think about locking or unlocking the lock. With your phone in range the lock will unlock seamlessly and if you need to allow someone else to use it, you can grant access. The downside of smart features is price. You can get a more secure lock for less money if you stick to a key. 

3. Onguard 8003 Pitbull STD U-Lock

When it comes to e-bike locks this is the least secure option we'd consider. In terms of the overall lock market, it's a very robust lock and it's inexpensive compared to some of the most secure options, but in this list, it's at the lower end of security. However, even being lower on this list, it's still high security. 

Onguard uses a 14mm hardened steel shackle that's thick enough to render bolt cutters ineffective. It's also robust enough that a leverage attack would be equally difficult. It won't take long with an angle grinder though, even with a double shackle design that requires two cuts, and the insurance offer is half that of the New York Fahgettaboutit Mini. It still makes the list because not only is it priced lower than others, it has some great ease of use features. It comes with five keys, one that includes a light, plus a frame mount kit that adds convenience. 

When it's time to lock the bike up the generous interior space means there's enough room for both a frame and wheel. The security might be a little lower but this is an easy-to-use everyday lock. 

4. Hiplok DXXL

The Hiplok DXXL takes a couple of pieces and combines them in a single purchase. There's a massive chain and there's also the Hiplok DX wearable U lock. Hiplok markets this option specifically for e-bikes so it only makes sense we'd include it here. 

There's another reason we like this combination though. If you've got an e-bike as well as another bike that requires less security, this could be a two-for-one purchase. The U lock and the chain work together but you can leave the chain at home if you don't need it. The Hiplok DX is alone is one of the most secure, and convenient, U locks on the market. When it's time to take your e-bike out add in a massive chain with 14mm thick links. When using the chain, the loop end design makes sure that you've got the most length available.   

5. Abus Bordo Granit 6500 Folding Lock

Some people absolutely love folding locks. They are never as secure as chains or u-lock designs but they are super convenient. It's easier to mount them and, compared to u-locks, they are easier to use with unusual shapes and sizes. Looking at the field of folding locks, the Bordo Granit 6500 might be the most secure available.  

It's also got great features such as a slick frame mount and plenty of rubber coating to keep it from scratching your frame The 5.5mm steel bars are just a little thicker than the Kryptonite 790 folding lock, which is another highly secure folding lock option. Like the Abus smart lock above, the problem is the price for security offered. Folding locks are less secure and cost more. If you are willing to trade security for convenience and want a folding lock, this is the one to get.    

6. Hiplok D1000

Our expert review:

Technology affects everything and tools are no different. As portable angle grinders get even smaller, cheaper and better at what they do, they've become a rising problem for bike theft. There is nothing on this list that can withstand an attack from a portable angle grinder, except for the Hiplok D1000. 

There are other locks available for sale that promise immunity from a portable angle grinder but the D1000 remains a portable option. It's a bit heavier, and there's no frame mount option available, but it's portable and usable in a wide variety of situations. The one challenge it has is the same as the New York Fahgettaboutit Mini which is a small space inside the shackle. Again, this adds security but it can make it tougher to use and that's especially true for an e-bike with large frame shapes.  

You can read more details about this lock in our full review of the Hiplok D100 . 

7. Hiplok Gold Chain Lock

If you start to study bike security, you will no doubt run into the chain vs U lock argument. There are proponents on both sides and there's no good answer. Chains are better suited for different anchors or bike shapes but they are also more hassle to carry with you. Even on an e-bike you'll have to figure out what to do with a bike chain. The Hiplok Gold solves this problem by being wearable when unlocked. The system allows it to hook together while bypassing the lock for safety and convenience. The links use 10mm steel for plenty of security and if you choose the reflective option you can even add a big reflective hit into the clothing you wear. The only downside is all that security does mean you've got to deal with a bit of weight.  

8. Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Chain 1415 & New York Disc Lock

The Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Chain 1415 & New York Disc Lock is another option in the massive chain lock category. It's even heavier than the Hiplok DXXL and the security is similar. In fact, the two offerings are similar in a lot of ways but they are unique enough that each has a place on this list. The Kryptonite chain doesn't loop through itself the way the Hiplok does and instead of a U-lock you get a lock that's a lot closer to a padlock. What Kryptonite does offer instead of the flexibility that comes with the Hiplok is an insurance offer. 

Make sure you've followed all the rules exactly and if your bike disappears you could be eligible for up to a $5,000 pay out.  

How to choose the best e-bike lock for your bike

What lock should i buy for my e-bike.

Every lock on this list represents a high-security option. There are still a range of options that cover different price points and security but there's nothing that you might consider low security. The vast majority of bikes stolen are not locked at all so start by always locking your bike. Remember, that includes inside your home, your garage, and any type of shed or outbuilding. Kryptonite, Abus, and Hiplok all offer anchor products that give you something secure to lock to so you might consider installing one. From that starting point, the choice is all about security vs usability. 

The most common choice is a U-lock. They are very secure, very easy to carry, and there are a lot of choices across a wide range of price points. The challenge with U-locks though is that they aren't flexible in the way they lock. They have a set site and only fit in a specific way. Many e-bikes have larger tubes that incorporate batteries and if you need to lock to something other than a bike lock it can be difficult to make it work. It's even harder because it's more secure the smaller the U-lock is.  

If a U-lock isn't going to work for you then you'll want to look at chain options. Chains tend to be more secure for less money. They are also very secure against angle grinders because they are hard to hold still. They are less secure against bolt cutters because individual links often don't match the diameter of a U lock. They tend to be bigger and heavier than a U lock design and carrying them can be more difficult. Where they excel is in their flexibility. If you need to lock your bike to signpost or any kind of non-standard anchor chains can do it for you. 

Another common locking solution is a folding lock. Folding locks are less secure than chains or U locks because they've got a lot of pieces that allow for attack vectors. Quality folding locks do their best to protect the hinges but there will always be vulnerability there.  The wide hardened steel makes them difficult to cut with bolt cutters so it's not like they are pushovers and they are convenient. They can be flexible enough for non-standard anchors and they are easier to carry than other options. We included one high-security option here for those that love the form factor.

There are other options available on the market. All kinds of variations on cable locks exist but we do not recommend them for use with an e-bike. They are so fast, and silent, to cut that it's not worth the risk, even briefly for a bike as pricey as an e-bike. 

What is the most powerful e-bike lock?

Other variations of this question are things like what's the hardest lock to cut or what's the most secure lock? The basic question is all the same, if you want the absolute highest security available, that means the Hiplock D1000. It's the only option that will withstand a portable angle grinder and remains somewhat portable. There are downsides to it though and you might be willing to live with some manner of risk in exchange for the convenience of other options. The D1000 is hard to buy, expensive, and small enough you might still need another lock. If you want the most security though, that's your answer.  

How do you lock an e-bike?

Locking an e-bike is the same as any bike and we have an article covering all the details of how to lock a bike . The only difference with an e-bike is that often the larger pieces will make it more of a challenge for small locks. There are also extra pieces to consider, like batteries, but typically the battery has its own integrated lock. Other than those specifics, you’ll want to limit extra space between the lock and the bike and keep the lock farther from the ground. These small changes in how you use the chosen lock will make it more secure. Keeping the lock farther from the ground makes it more difficult to use the ground as leverage on a bolt cutter. Limiting extra space between the lock and the bike means it's more difficult to get a tool positioned for a leverage attack.  

What about insurance offers for e-bike locks?

When it comes to insurance offers from bike locks, it's best to think of them as an added bonus and not as the only reason for purchase. The biggest thing to remember is that they are insurance and, as such, come with very specific language about how they work. You will need to make sure that you follow every detail and even then, there might be times when you can't take advantage of the coverage. Gotchas such as the requirement to have possession of the broken lock can be issues. 

Still, despite the challenges, the coverage is essentially a free add-on and it doesn't hurt to have. Both Onguard and Kryptonite require registration at time of purchase and it's a good opportunity to read through the details and make sure you understand the process.  

Do I need to register my bike?

While you are following the directions for registering your new lock, make sure you also register your bike. Bike Index is a non-profit that works to register bikes then help with recovery if something happens. There's no guarantee of anything but they are doing amazing work and it doesn't hurt. If a bike goes missing you can access a community of people who will keep their eyes open and help you recover it. It's also a great opportunity to record the serial number of your bike and make sure you have it on hand. If law enforcement happens to recover a bike it will only come back to you if you've filed a police report and given them a serial number.  

How we tested the best e-bike locks?

As we researched the best bike locks, it became very clear that it wasn't worth cutting them apart. With the exception of the Hiplock D1000 every lock on our list is vulnerable to portable angle grinder. Even the biggest steel shackle takes only a few minutes to get through. When it comes to bolt cutter attacks the story is a little better but somewhat similar. 

If a lock is small enough, it's vulnerable and if it's bigger, it's not. A 24-inch bolt cutter is able to handle up to about 5/16 inch / 7.9mm and we've avoided anything less than that in this list. That leaves usability as the deciding factor in what lock makes sense for you and that we have tested. We spent the time researching what was out there then made sure that our choices were usable and under what circumstances it made sense to choose one product instead of another. 

Furthermore, each e-bike lock on this list represents an option we'd buy with our own money.

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Josh Ross

Josh hails from the Pacific Northwest of the United States but would prefer riding through the desert than the rain. He will happily talk for hours about the minutiae of cycling tech but also has an understanding that most people just want things to work. He is a road cyclist at heart and doesn't care much if those roads are paved, dirt, or digital. Although he rarely races, if you ask him to ride from sunrise to sunset the answer will be yes. Height: 5'9" Weight: 140 lb. Rides: Salsa Warbird, Cannondale CAAD9, Enve Melee, Look 795 Blade RS, Priority Continuum Onyx

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Non-bike bike gear tested: Linka Lasso smartphone-controlled chain lock

Avatar for Micah Toll

I’d like to think that the only thing I need to live a car-free life is my bike and my enthusiasm. But it’s the extra gear that helps me stay as two-wheeled as possible. In this regular column, I take a deep dive into some of the coolest and most interesting gadgets and pieces of kit that make it possible to swap a car for an e-bike on a daily basis. This time, we’re checking out a fascinating smartphone-controlled keyless e-bike lock called the Linka Lasso.

That’s right, there’s no physical key shipped along with the Lasso, at least not of the metal variety. There is an optional SmartMotion key that works like a fob in a keyless ignition car, but for the most part, the lock is operated completely by your phone.

I tested two versions, the Linka Lasso 8 and Linka Lasso 10 Moto. They have the same locking mechanism, but 8 and 10 mm hardened steel links, respectively. The Lasso 8 is also shorter with 100 cm (39 inch) chain length, while the Lasso 10 Moto has a larger 140 cm (55 inch) locking circumference. Theoretically, the smaller chain would be fine for e-bikes, while the larger one is meant more for motorcycles, but I’d opt for the larger one on my e-bikes just to give me more room and freedom to lock more of the frame and/or wheels to secure objects.

They both have the same Sold Secure Silver rating, though the thicker hardened steel chain links on the Lasso 10 surely stand up to attacks for longer.

trek bike lock

The general idea of the lock is that you use the accompanying smartphone app to unlock Lasso, meaning you don’t need to put yet another key on your crowded keyring. And if you’re the kind of person that only bikes occasionally and thus don’t walk around with your bike lock’s key on you all the time, you don’t need to remember to grab the key on the way out since your phone IS the key.

And to answer the question many of you already thinking, there’s a solution for when your phone’s battery runs out. During the lock setup routine, you have to create a secret code that you enter through the single push button on the lock, which unlocks it.

Granted, that solution is a bit cumbersome to use since there’s only a single button, and so it takes a lot longer to punch in a code than with a typical wheeled combo lock. But it’s not something you’d ever do unless your phone actually died while your bike was locked up, which I imagine is a pretty rare occurrence. If you’re like me, you starting sweating when your phone battery is under 50%. If you’re a psychopath like my wife that can giggle as your phone battery dips down to 2%, you may want to remember that secret lock code.

trek bike lock

Using the lock for the first time is kind of mind-blowing. The first time you push a software button on your phone and hear your bike chain make a whirring noise then release itself, it kind of blows your mind. It’s a real “welcome to the future” moment.

That lock mechanism feels super solid, which it better, since it’s also housing the lock’s battery and electronics. A special little magnetic charging cable is included to charge up the lock, and you better not lose that little cable because of course it’s not the same cable as the one you use to charge your phone.

As cool as unlocking your bike lock from your phone is, the device also works with smartwatches. I don’t have a smartwatch, but the Lasso is compatible with many leading smartwatches which means I wouldn’t even actually have to pull out my phone to unlock it, if I had a smartwatch.

Obviously, unlocking via a smartphone is the main trick here. But the Linka Lasso is a lot more than just a smartphone lock. The same technology that allows the smartphone-based unlocking also opens the door to a number of other cool features.

First of all, the lock has an optional SmartMotion key, which is basically a proximity tag that you can put on your keyring. But it’s not a direct replacement for a physical key – meaning it’s not just a fancy electronic version of a cut steel pin that you still have to fetch from your keychain. You don’t swipe it or hold it up to the lock like an NFC card. It can stay in your pocket while allowing the Linka Lasso to unlock from the push button on the lock simply by recognizing that the tag is less than one meter (3 feet) away from the lock. That means when you have the SmartMotion key on you, you don’t even have to pull out your phone to unlock your bike. You simply walk up to the lock and push a button. It’s basically the same idea as keyless ignition cars that recognize the key fob is sitting in your pocket.

That makes the lock super fast to use. Instead of fumbling in your pocket for keys, unlocking the lock, and then fumbling to put your keys away, you simply walk up to the lock and push a button. It unlocks instantly since it reads the SmartMotion key in your pocket. The process takes literally two seconds. Most of us aren’t so stressed that an extra 20 seconds of key fumbling is going to ruin our day, but it does feel pretty nice to skip that step and just ride away from the bike stand in seconds.

Next, the connected nature of the lock allows you to actually share unlocking credentials with other people. For example, if my wife and I share a bike, we can also share the “key” to the lock by both being able to unlock it from our phones. Or if you leave your bike at a buddy’s place, you can give him access to unlock it. You can even pair multiple Linka locks, like their Dutch-style wheel lock, to your phone to unlock them all together.

I should also mention that it’s nice to see that the lock comes with a 5-year warranty. I sometimes worry about how well electronics will hold up when they’re built into things that get knocked around every day.

trek bike lock

What’s the downside?

The first bummer of chain locks is simply that they’re heavy. The Lasso 8 weighs 1.8 kg (3.9 lb), and the Lasso 10 Moto weighs a hefty 3 kg or 6.6 lb. My current favorite lock weighs half of that and has a higher security rating, meaning the Linka Lasso doesn’t win on a per-pound basis. But then again, it does what other locks can’t on the technology side, so the trade-off is there for each person to weigh on their own.

Next, there’s the issue of battery life. They say that the Linka Lasso’s battery will last for two months if you’re using it with the app, or up to five months if you only use the proximity key. That’s pretty good, in my opinion, until you forget that you need to be charging it. As long as you set a reminder to charge it once a month or so, I think it won’t be an issue. But if you ever forget, you’ll be SOL until you bring a little portable battery charger out to your bike, at which point the lock will fire right back up.

The lock will also give you notifications that its battery is running low via the smartphone app, so in all fairness, it does its best to not let you forget about it.

trek bike lock

They’re also not cheap, not by a long shot. The Lasso 8 is currently on sale for $149 , and the Lasso 10 Moto is on sale for $179 . Oh, and if you want that SmartMotion key, that’s an extra $25 . You’re really paying for the features here, since while Sold Secure Silver is quite good, there are higher-rated locks for lower cost. So again, it’s not a dollar per dollar basis here, but rather paying for fancier features.

Oh, and it’s got that special little magnetic charging port, meaning if you ever lose that weird little charger, you’ll also be up a creek unless you head back to the Linka to get a replacement. That’s not a charger you’ll find at the corner store.

So while there are definitely some downsides, the Lasso has some major upsides that I haven’t seen in any other lock on the market. If it was Sold Secure Gold instead of Silver, I’d be over the moon. But as it stands, I think it’s a great second lock to add to your security regiment. Because you’re definitely not locking your nice e-bike up with only one lock , right?!

Read more : The strongest and most secure folding bike lock in the world

Read more : Adding a headlight to any helmet

FTC: We use income earning auto affiliate links. More.

review

Micah Toll is a personal electric vehicle enthusiast, battery nerd, and author of the Amazon #1 bestselling books DIY Lithium Batteries , DIY Solar Power,   The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide  and The Electric Bike Manifesto .

The e-bikes that make up Micah’s current daily drivers are the $999 Lectric XP 2.0 , the $1,095 Ride1Up Roadster V2 , the $1,199 Rad Power Bikes RadMission , and the $3,299 Priority Current . But it’s a pretty evolving list these days.

You can send Micah tips at [email protected], or find him on Twitter , Instagram , or TikTok .

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Troubleshooting Common e-Bike Problems: The Ultimate Guide

Troubleshooting Common e-Bike Problems The Ultimate Guide

Maintaining an ebike in good working condition can be tricky business, especially if you’re a newbie ebike rider. 

An ebike will work smoothly only when all the parts are functioning properly. Luckily, not every hiccup with your electric bike means there’s a major problem. Sometimes, it just needs a bit of DIY maintenance.

Not to mention, many ebike owners don’t live near an electric bike service shop, so getting the job done themselves can be a lifesaver. In any case, knowing how to troubleshoot common problems of ebikes is valuable information for anyone owning an electric bike or thinking about buying one. 

In this article, we’re sharing a full guide on how to troubleshoot common ebike problems to help you get back on the road in no time. So without further ado, let’s get started!

1. Troubleshooting the Battery

If your ebike won’t start or keeps cutting off, the issue can often be traced back to the battery. Even if you’re just doing a routine troubleshooting session, the battery on your ebike should be the first component to inspect. Here are some ways to troubleshoot battery problems:

Check the Voltage

The first thing you need to do is check the battery voltage. The LEDs on the control panel and the ebike should light up, if this doesn’t happen, then there’s a chance that the battery hasn’t been charged or there may have been a blown fuse. 

Checking the battery voltage can give you a clue as to whether or not the battery has been damaged.

You can check the voltage of an ebike using a voltmeter by simply attaching the prongs to the positive and negative sides of the prongs on the battery. Another way to get a reading is to fasten the voltmeter directly into the charger connector on the battery.

If you find that the battery power dies out too quickly, then the first you should do is determine how long the battery pack has been left without charging. Accordingly, you’ll be facing one of 2 scenarios:

  • If the battery pack hasn’t been charged for 6 months or less, you may be able to recharge it successfully.
  • If the battery pack hasn’t been charged for more than 6 months, then it’s probably defective. 

If you know that your ebike has been sitting in the garage for some time without recharging and when you try to start it, the battery loses power too quickly, then it’s safe to assume that the battery is defective and will require a replacement. 

If you’ve charged your ebike battery for less than 8 hours, try letting it charge for 8 hours and then check if the electric bike can run at full speed. We highly recommended not to leave the battery charger plugged into your electric bike for more than 12 hours. This is to avoid the risk of overcharging or damaging the battery if the charger malfunctions.

Check the Battery Charger

While you’re at it, you should also check the battery charger. You don’t need any tools to get this done; just plug the battery charger into the wall and see if one or more of the indicator lights are illuminated. 

If the indicator light doesn’t illuminate or even blink on and off when the charger is plugged into the wall, then you’re dealing with a defective charger. To test the output voltage of your battery charger, you can use a multimeter or voltmeter.

The voltage reading must be a few volts higher than the battery charger’s rated voltage. If the output on the battery charger is lower than the battery charger’s rated voltage or if it’s zero, then the battery charger is defective.

For example, if your ebike is equipped with a 36V battery but the voltmeter reads 10 volts, then the battery is faulty. In this case, it’s a good idea to check if your ebike is still under warranty. 

If so, then you can contact the manufacturer and file a warranty claim for replacement parts. But if not, then you should buy a new battery.

If the voltmeter reads a surface charge of more than 36V, then the battery is fully charged and you can try troubleshooting another component.

Check the Battery Management System

If your ebike keeps cutting off, one of the most common reasons for such hiccups is a failing battery. If your battery pack is particularly choking when under load, then the issue could be that the battery management system is shutting it off to protect your battery pack from overeating.

Typically, the battery management system will cut off the power if it senses the battery draining too fast below certain safe levels.

Often than not, a severe voltage drop means that one or more cells in your battery pack have been damaged. There are several reasons for such malfunction including aging, too frequent charge cycles, improper battery management, and a manufacturing defect. 

If you’re experiencing power cuts with a new ebike that you’re just starting to use, it might be because the pack has been sized, engineered, or manufactured with less than the required high current capacity for supporting heavy loads.

When cells fail, it’s usually due to being under severe loads. One way to solve this is by dropping the assist level and pedaling a little harder when going up steep inclines or hills. This should reduce the load on your battery.

Another thing to keep an eye out for is the possibility of your battery arriving already pre-aged. This can happen in lower-quality batteries that are typically installed in cheaper bikes because they’re made by recycling batteries from other older devices such as laptops.

To find out if your battery is the culprit behind the repeated choking of your ebike, try using it on a different reliable electric bike with the same setup as yours. The same problem should happen if the battery is faulty. 

If you’ve owned your ebike for a few years and you’ve used it almost every day, the frequent rides may have just pushed the battery pack towards the natural end of its lifespan. Here, buying a new pack from the manufacturer will solve the issue.

Check the Battery Prongs

A failing battery can be the result of improper lining up of its prongs. If this is the case, the electrical circuit can’t be completed so no power will be produced.

Using a wrench, you can easily fix this issue by slightly bending the prongs to realign them into the correct position.

Check the Battery Charger Port

Additionally, you need to check the battery charger port. Be sure to first unplug the battery charger if it’s plugged into the wall. 

Next, plug the battery charger into the battery charger port on your ebike and observe the indicator light on the battery charger. If the indicator light illuminates when the charger is plugged into the electric bike, then the wiring and the wiring connectors going to the charger port as well the charger port itself are working.

If you have a voltmeter or a multimeter, you can test the voltage of the battery charger port. The level of the voltage measured at the charging port must be the same as the one rater for the battery pack. 

Alternatively, you can test the battery pack on another reliable electric bike where you ride the ebike at full throttle on flat ground. Note how long the battery pack will last. 

On flat ground, most ebikes have a battery range somewhere between 30 and 45 minutes. If your battery pack lasts less than 30 to 20 minutes, chances are it’s worn out and you have to replace it. Severely worn out batteries have a maximum range of 5 to 10 minutes.

  • If your ebike features a headlight, you can perform a load test by fastening an arch-shaped piece of cardboard over the headlight so you can see the beam from the headlight while riding.

From here, you can fully charge the battery pack and ride your ebike with the headlight on. Keep an eye out for the headlight’s beam shining on the cardboard. 

If the battery is good, the headlight will dim just a bit when you give the ebike full throttle. If the beam on the headlight dims severely when you give the ebike full throttle, then you’ll know that the battery is worn out.

  • If you can get your hands on a multimeter, you can perform a battery load test while your ebike is running. Start by fully charging the battery, then jack up the rear wheel by connecting the multimeter to the battery. Give the electric bike full throttle while engaging the brake on the rear without locking it up. 

When you engage the rear brake, the battery pack will go through a load so you can then read the voltage and find out how much it drops. If the battery is working well, the voltage will drop by a few volts only. Otherwise, the voltage will massively drop. 

2. Troubleshooting the Brake Motor Inhibitor

If you’ve dropped your ebike, then a part of the handlebars may have been damaged. You can easily spot this by visually inspecting your handlebars and brake levers for signs of any cosmetic damage. 

If you find that the brakes have been pulled back because of damage and can’t seem to break free, this will cause the motor inhibitor switch to stay turned on. To get your ebike running again, you’ll need to fix the jammed brake levers.

If the damage is significant, then the switch itself may require replacing. Such a process will need the skills of an expert electric bike mechanic.

  • Some people may suggest that you use your controller to figure out which wires are for the brake inhibitor so you can disconnect them completely to get rid of the problem. However, we stress that you never do that as it can be extremely dangerous on the road.

If your brakes aren’t functioning properly, then you should check the shoes or the brake pads for signs of wear. If they’re damaged or worn out, replace them right away. You should also check the brake cable tension and adjust it if necessary.

If you find the brake pads or the brake shoes in good condition then you may want to tighten the brake cable adjuster on the brake lever or the brake itself until the brake becomes more responsive. Make sure that the brakes aren’t rubbing on the rotor or rim when the brake lever is released. 

Once you’ve adjusted the brake cable adjusters to the end of their limits, screw them all the way in. Then, tighten the brake cable by loosening the brake cable stopper, pulling the brake cable tight, and re-tightening the brake cable stopper. 

You can make a final adjustment to the brake cable tension by unthreading the brake cable adjuster until you get the right tension. 

  • It’s crucial to your and others safety that you maintain the braking system; keep discs and rims clean and straight, promptly replace any worn-out brake shoes and pads, replace frayed or worn cables and housings, and lightly lubricate brake pivot points.

3. Troubleshooting the Controller

Think of the controller as the processor of your ebike operating system. As a result, it’s also one of the most common reasons why your electric bike may not be working properly. 

The controller’s job is to take input signals from all the controls and sensors on the ebike, analyze them, and then determine the best way to transfer the power coming from the battery to the motor.

Since the controller serves a huge yet sensitive purpose in the functioning of an ebike, the slightest technical glitch could ruin the established balance in any aspect including power transfer and distribution. 

Inspect your controller for any wires that may be loose, disconnected, or misconnected. If you do see disconnected cables, reconnect them to the proper port. In general, the wires should be color-coded so you can match the same color wire with the same color the outlet.

If the controller doesn’t work at all, make sure that the power switch is turned on. Also, check the fuse or circuit breaker.

If your ebike comes with a circuit breaker, you can reset the circuit breaker by pushing the breaker. However, you should be aware of any problems that may pop up as circuit breakers are designed to protect the system and there could already be an ongoing problem that’ll seriously damage components.

For ebikes with a fuse, you can simply remove it and hold it against some light to see if it’s burned out. If so, replace the fuse.

4. Troubleshooting the Throttle

A lot of ebikes on the market come with throttle control. If you overuse the throttle control, it may get stuck when pulled back and won’t return to the off position on its own.

If you do this repeatedly, the throttle will eventually loosen or get damaged. If this happens, you’ll tend to experience power cut-offs. 

The safest way to use the twist throttle is to pull it back and then slowly release it back into its original position once you’re done.

If the throttle is feeling loose or missing out on strokes from time to time, you can just replace it after testing whether or not it’s receiving steady power. This way you’ll know for sure that your throttle is to blame.

5. Troubleshooting the Pedal Assist

Malfunctions of the power or pedal assist system on your ebike may cause issues associated with pulsating or occasional power cut-offs. Different ebike models feature different pedal assist systems; some are built around the front sprocket chainring while others are built into the bottom bracket.

If you’ve recently made mechanical adjustments to the wheels, pedals, sprockets, derailleurs, and so on, this could be why you’re encountering power supply hiccups. Another reason for such issues could be the ring of magnets on the front sprocket; the sensors may be out of alignment due to being dirty or knocked around.

You can adjust the pedal-assist magnet position using a flathead screwdriver to push the disc nearer to the sensors. If this doesn’t work and you’re having a hard time determining whether or not your pedal assist system is faulty, it’s best to take your ebike to an electric bike service shop so they can remove and replace the faulty parts.

6. Troubleshooting the Motor Connections

As we mentioned earlier, loose wire connections are one of the most common reasons why you may be experiencing issues with your ebike. As such, the wires connected to the rear hub motor can often get loose, frayed, or damaged over time. 

If the wires are loose, you’ll probably have to replace the loose or damaged portions. Check if there are any melted or burned wires connected to the rear hub motor. 

Melted or burned wires are a sign of overheating. If the insulation on the copper coil wires melts due to overheating, occasional short circuits may occur causing the power to cut off. 

If the coils in the motor keep overheating, you’re potentially risking the motor’s integrity and may end up having to replace the motor to avoid damaging the controller.

Check the motor’s power transmission system for missing parts. Worn-out, missing, or damaged components could lead to problems in power transmission resulting in unwanted interruptions of power flow. 

There you have it, a comprehensive guide on how to troubleshoot common problems of ebikes. Even though DIY maintenance can be easy to perform, it’s still best to bring your electric bike to a service shop if you’re not fully confident in your skills.

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Adrienne So

The Best Cheap Electric Bikes Under $2,000

If you buy something using links in our stories, we may earn a commission. This helps support our journalism. Learn more . Please also consider subscribing to WIRED

Propella 9S Pro V2 electric bike

Best Overall Propella 9S Pro V2 Read more

Side view of black bike

Runner-Up Aventon Soltera.2 Read more

Side view of electric bike with green frame and black wheels

The Best Name-Brand Bike Cannondale Adventure Neo Allroad Step Thru Read more

HeyBike Tyson electric bicycle in a garage

A Fully Loaded Ebike Heybike Tyson Read more

Electric bikes reduce car congestion, get you moving, and reduce your carbon footprint. Also, they’re just really fun. I’ve never met anyone who has tried an electric bike and not wanted one; in the Netherlands, ebikes currently outsell regular bikes . However, that four-figure price tag induces sticker shock. Many states are considering incentive programs , but how does that help you if you want or need an ebike now ?

Many factors drive up the price of an ebike, including expensive components, sophisticated computers, big batteries, and fancy frames. Thankfully, a handful of direct-to-consumer companies are making affordable ebikes so everyone can participate in the fun. Below, you'll find the best cheap ebikes we tested. Got a bike we should know about? Leave a comment! Don’t forget to check out our Best Electric Bikes , Best Family Bikes , and Best Bike Accessories guides for more recommendations.

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Best Overall

I've only been riding the 9S Pro V2 for a short time, but we've tested enough Propella bikes that I can confidently recommend this one as the best for most people. At 43.5 pounds with an aluminum frame, it's light enough for me, a smaller person, to lift out of the bike box and assemble without requiring a forklift. It comes about 85 percent assembled, so I can put it together in about 15 minutes. (The company suggests going to a shop if you don't feel comfortable.) It's a class 1 ebike , which means it assists up to 20 mph and it doesn't have a throttle, so you will have to pedal and shift through each of the 9 gears. The display is tiny but bright and intuitive. It's easy to navigate while riding, with just a button on the top and the side to turn it on, and a simple thumb toggle to scroll through 5 assist levels. This is Propella's second version of this bike, which is now lighter and has a torque sensor so that the assistance feels even more natural. I also particularly like the clean frame with the integrated battery, which makes it less of a target for thieves; however, if you want a removable battery because you lock your bike up in a garage, Propella also still sells its cheaper 7-speed . This is the best first bike for everyone who already likes bikes and just wants a little boost to make it the last few miles home.

This Aventon is a pleasure to pedal, and you should plan on spinning your feet on this sleek ebike. Like on the Propella, the rear motor puts out just 350 watts, meaning you’re not going to zoom fast by just using the throttle button. The battery—which is so thin and discreet that many won’t notice it’s there—holds just 9.6 amp hours, meaning you won’t zoom far, either. This second-generation Soltera also now has a new torque sensor, which performed flawlessly in our testing and mostly eliminated that jerkiness when cheap electric motors offer imperfectly calibrated assistance.

At 46 pounds, it's slightly heavier than the Propella 9S Pro V2, but it still maneuvers better than many budget ebikes we’ve tried. The components all feel solid if not bombproof, and this bike’s great looks and performance on pedal assist mean it’s ideally suited to keeping up with a crowd of fit cyclists even if you’re a schlub. —Martin Cizmar

The Best Name-Brand Bike

Enough friends have asked me to help them assemble their new ebike that I now recommend that everyone go to a shop. Going to a shop in person means you can try a bunch of bikes to find out what style you like and get sized properly. Shops usually include free assembly and a service program for 30 days or a year, so you don't have to tinker in your driveway or garage. If you're the kind of person who would pay an extra $250 for assembly from a company like Velofix, then going to a shop is worth it.

We've had great experiences with Cannondale's Adventure Neo line ( 8/10, WIRED Recommends ). With the latest Adventure Neo Allroad, Cannondale has switched out some of the components to make the bike more accessible. It has a 250-watt Bafang motor with a Bafang sensor and a thumb throttle, which makes it a class 2 ebike , even though it tops out at 20 mph assist. It's essentially a Rad Power Bike (see below) you can have assembled and tuned for you in a shop, but it's versatile and nimble on both roads, trails, and gravel, and small enough to fit my 5'2" height. I rode this for over a week on roads and dirt and gravel paths near my house. It's not the most powerful bike I've tested, but it's a perfectly serviceable bike that did get me up the 15 percent hill I've nicknamed Battery Killer.

A Fully Loaded Ebike

Changing your lifestyle from a car-oriented one to a bike-oriented one can be a big transition. An ebike isn't going to change your life if it spends most of its time in your garage because you forgot to buy lights or you don't feel safe riding it around. At 77 pounds, the Heybike Tyson ( 6/10, WIRED Review ) is incredibly heavy, and some of the components are fragile—I did crack the screen after I accidentally knocked it over from a standstill in my garage.

However, if you want to try out an ebike lifestyle in a super fast, comfortable, and convenient way, I still say this is a decent pick. In addition to an enormously powerful 750-watt motor, this class 3 ebike has dual suspension, enormous tires, and a plush seat for a comfy ride. It also has the most extensive ebike dashboard I've ever seen, with turn signals, multiple buttons, and a throttle. A proprietary app also tells you the bike's location and warns you if it's been stolen. The battery range is less than advertised, especially if you lean heavily on the throttle. Still, it's a good-looking bike that will have you riding at night and in the rain in no time. (You will still have to buy an additional lock though.)

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Side view of black electric bike

The Best Utility Bike

The RadRunner is Seattle-based Rad Power Bikes' flagship utility bike; I tried the first version , and WIRED commerce director Martin Cizmar tested the RadRunner 3 Plus ($2,099) . The company also sells a RadRunner Plus ($1,799) . The Plus denotes the tricked-out version with the passenger package and wheel guards; the third version has a few upgrades, like a slightly more powerful motor and the newer battery style that is integrated into the downtube. We have to note here that Rad Power was the focus of several lawsuits for a few years; however, these latest bikes are UL-certified.

Overall, the RadRunner series is one of the most common direct-to-consumer ebikes I see in my hometown of Portland, Oregon. The RadRunner 2 is a class 2 ebike , and Cizmar notes the bike feels burly and stable enough to support the weight of a grade schooler on the back seat. Rad's signature lights are blindingly bright, and the knobby tires and suspension are great for rougher city sidewalks or hopping low curbs. It's a little difficult to lock up at the thicker part of the frame, but the bike's design includes thinner tubes that will work.

Side view of black bike with brand name Go Trax on the side

Best Folding Bike

I've had a hit-or-miss track record testing Gotrax's electric kick scooters , but I'm pretty happy with its F2 electric bike. Considering the sub-$1,000 price, this fat-tire ebike had enough range to take me from Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn, to Pier 57 in Manhattan, a roughly 20-mile round trip with some pit stops, and it had juice to spare. (I tested the original F2 , but a new “V2” model adds slight improvements , like a stronger rear rack, hydraulic brakes, and a comfier seat.) At 58 pounds, it's not as lightweight as the Lectric XP Lite (which costs $799), but it can go farther. The thick tires make bumps on the road a piece of cake. It has a 500-watt motor, and I averaged around 12 mph on the third pedal assistance level (there's a throttle you can twist too). You get a seven-speed Shimano shifter, which makes it more versatile to ride. The usual faults of any fat-tire folding ebike apply. It's cumbersome to fold up and heavy. The original model required a key to be plugged in on the underside of the bike to start it, but that has since been remedied in the V2 model—now you just need the key to unlock and remove the battery. The rear hub motor does keep running for a second after you stop pedaling, so just be careful when you're coming to a traffic light. Direct-to-consumer bikes usually have some kind of damage from shipping in my experience, and on the F2, it was a broken reflector (which is frankly much better than the damage I've seen on Lectrics). Still, you get all the amenities you want, including a rear cargo rack, bell, headlight, and taillight. It's hard to beat that value. —Julian Chokkattu

Image may contain Transportation Vehicle Bike Bicycle Wheel Machine and Mountain Bike

The VanMoof Alternative

Last year, the Dutch company VanMoof—long referred to as “the Tesla of ebikes”— went bankrupt . That was unfortunate, as we very much liked its affordable, good-looking bikes . If you want a Euro-style VanMoof alternative that's light, stylish, and affordable, you might want to try the Wing Freedom X ( 7/10, WIRED Review ). WIRED reviewer Matt Jancer notes it's an awful lot of bike for $1,500. It's a class 1 ebike with a 350-watt Bafang motor (you can purchase a throttle separately), seven gears, and five levels of assist. Jancer says it has strong acceleration and comfy grips and seat; it does, however, have a bit of a laggy throttle and only so-so cable brakes.

Electra Loft Go electric bicycle

Best Comfy Cruiser

We're currently testing a few more sit-up cruisers, which is this particular style of bike meant for comfortable, slow riding around your neighborhood. If you need a bike for running errands in your sundress this summer, I recommend the Electra Loft Go! ( 7/10, WIRED Review ). It's almost 20 pounds lighter than the last Electra I tested, thanks to a new lightweight drivetrain system made by Hyena. It's a class 1 ebike with a 250-watt rear hub motor and an integrated 250-Wh battery.

This isn't a bike meant for a rigorous daily commute. The range is only about 25 miles, there's no suspension, and the curved handlebars are meant to be comfortable, not to steer around lots of rocks and potholes. However, it let me do what it's meant to do perfectly, which to me, meant breeze effortlessly next to my husband with a straw purse tucked under my arm as we went to get patio cocktails in the afternoon.

Aventon Aventure.2 Adventure EBike

The Best All-Terrain Bike

One of my favorite electric bikes is the Specialized Turbo Tero ( 8/10, WIRED Recommends ), which I called the quiver-killer—that one bike that can go anywhere, at any time, and do anything. The affordable version of that is this fat-tire ebike from Aventon. WIRED reviews editor Parker Hall used the Aventure.2 ( 8/10, WIRED Recommends ) for everything from riding on trails to going to the store. It ships as a class 2 ebike , but you can unlock it to be a class 3, because, as Hall says, “more power rules.”

This is an ebike that feels a lot like hopping on a superlight motorcycle, but Hall does not consider that a bad thing. He rode it all summer and it felt remarkably powerful and stable, with big fat tires, front suspension, and components like a Shimano gearset. The price includes the built-in lights and fenders. As a non-bike-mechanic, he did have some trouble adjusting the hydraulic brakes (I'll say it again: Take your bike to a shop!), but he rode it for an entire summer of versatile commuting and park visits.

Side view of white electric bike with storage carrier on the back

The Best Cargo Bike

It is simply preposterous that the Lectric XPedition only costs this much. Several of my friends own it; my spouse prefers it to my much more expensive Tern GSD ( 8/10, WIRED Recommends ). For the price, the build quality and the components are remarkable. You can set it to ride as a class 1, 2, or 3 ebike with five different levels of assist and throttle; the 750-watt motor has a peak of 1,310 W as well, so it will have no trouble carrying heavy loads.

I am 115 pounds, and my husband is 170 pounds; while I can get up the steep Battery Killer hill in Portland, Oregon, on my Tern GSD while carrying two kids, he cannot. He's much heavier and needs the throttle on the Lectric to give him the juice when he needs it. It's adjustable and has a low center of gravity, so both of us can use it, and the rear rack holds up to 300 pounds. Lectric also has an enormous amount of high-quality accessories, and you can customize it pretty easily. The dual kickstand is not that stable, and the motor is kind of loud, but that's about the only flaws. It's the easiest bike I've assembled out of the box too. This is the only cheap ebike I will regularly ride as a passenger, and it feels great.

SixThreeZero Electrified EvryJourney electric tricycle

The Best Bike for Elderly Riders

As WIRED contributor Stephanie Pearson notes, an electric bike keeps people healthy and moving long after they might have had to set down an analog bike. But older adults might require a bike with a step-through frame or other accommodations to help them keep it from tipping over.

The solution is an electric tricycle, and this class 2 trike from SixThreeZero fits the bill. The 250-watt motor is in the front hub, which gives it a speed of 15 mph in full-throttle mode. It has a range of up to 60 miles, and there's even a rear basket where your elderly loved one can put their small dog or a basket of library books. It's not easy to lift, but it comes in a wide array of colors, and it's very, very cute. As long as your loved one has a garage that they can roll it into, he or she can keep pedaling for as long as they want.

2023 Jackrabbit XG

My Favorite Tiny Ebike

Ebikes come and ebikes go, but the one bike that I always want to have on hand is a JackRabbit . You might call it a microbike. This is the most useful electric bike I have tested for what city planners call trip-chaining, or putting multiple trips together. This is a bike that you can easily throw into a trunk and zip off to the grocery store while your kids are at the park, or if you want to drop off your car at Les Schwab and zip home for two to three hours.

The cheaper OG rings in at $1,000 , but the new XG has a slightly longer frame, a 500-watt motor, and two swappable battery slots. More power and more range make it much more useful than the original JackRabbit, even if it is a little bigger. (I do have to admit that it was funny forcing my much larger spouse to ride up and down the street on a quarter-sized electric bike.) I enjoy puttering around my neighborhood and startling my neighbors when I zip around a corner on something that looks like what their child should be riding. It is a cute and capable last-mile solution .

Side view of grey and black electric bike

Honorable Mentions

Not every bike we've tested is a top pick, but here are a few more options if nothing above suits you:

  • The Lectric XP 3.0 for $1,437 : This is the bike I see the most often in my neighborhood in Portland, Oregon. WIRED reviews editor Julian Chokkattu also found that it offered great value for the price, with suspension, a throttle, reliable range, and a host of affordable accessories. He also tested Lectric's XP Lite , which honestly wasn't that much lighter and was frustrating to use.
  • The Lectric XP Trike for $1,715 : This is a slightly more affordable option than the SixThreeZero trike above. WIRED reviews editor Julian Chokkattu tested it and enjoyed the range and power of this trike, but he also had some difficulties maneuvering it around and keeping it maintained.
  • The Ride1Up Cafe Cruiser for $1,595 : I'm always surprised that 65-pound behemoths are always advertised as entry-level electric bikes. Nevertheless, I found that Ride1Up's version offers a lot of power and comfort for the money, with big thick wheels, a plushy seat, and a long-lived battery.

Hand removing the battery from an electric bike

Keep It Fire Free

Even cheap ebikes are vehicles, not toys. In our years of testing electric bikes, we've had components snap on us at 20 miles per hour; we've had pedals break off, kicked fenders as we rode, and even had drive trains arc on us as we were assembling them. It's important that we recommend a safe bike.

The most important factor we look for as we test ebikes is UL certification. As ebikes have boomed in popularity, so have the number of deadly fires from charging poorly regulated lithium-ion batteries . Starting on September 16, 2023, New York City requires that all battery-operated mobility devices sold, rented, or leased in New York City be certified by an accredited testing laboratory to comply with Underwriters Laboratories (UL) safety standards.

You don't have to let safety considerations deter you from buying a cheap ebike, but we would urge you to consider a few basic safety rules. As a general rule of thumb, treat your bike like you would any other giant battery. Do not leave it charging overnight. Do not use a third-party charger. If it gets smashed, starts leaking, or looks weird, leave it alone and call the fire department. And as always, do not let your children ride it or play with it unattended .

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NCM Moscow Plus

NCM Moscow Plus

An e-mountain bike equipped with high-end brake and drive systems, the NCM M5 is for adventurous riders who want to hit the trails comfortable in the knowledge that their ebike can handle whatever they throw at it.

BIKE COMPONENTS

Frame: Alu. 6061, 26"*17.3 inches / Alu. 6061, 27.5"*18.9 inches / Alu. 6061, 29"*20.5 inches

Suspension Fork: Suntour, XCM-HLO-26/27.5/29, with hydraulic lock system

Brake: F/R: Tektro Hydraulic Disc Brakes,HD-E350

Freewheel: LY, 8 Speed, 11-32T, Silver

Tire: Schwalbe, Black Jack, 26"*2.1/Smart Sam, 27.5"*2.35/29"*2.35, Black

Saddle: Selle Royal, Lookin-A200UR, Black

Crank: Das-Kit, CM48,28/38/48T

Derailleur: F: Shimano, Altus, FD-M310, R: Shimano, Acera, RD-M360

ELECTRIC COMPONENTS

Battery: Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16AH, 768WH

Hub Motor Rated / Peak Power: Das-Kit, X15, 48V 500W / 900W

Controller: Das-Kit, CT-i5, 48V 18A

Charger: Das-Kit, 48V3A

Display: Das-Kit, C7 

Net Weight (with battery): 57.0 lbs

Battery Weight: 9.1 lbs

Max Load (driver+bike): 275.0 lbs

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Our on-line store is open 24/7 and we ship Monday through Friday, excluding some holidays. Orders received for products without shipping restrictions on its product page will ship the same business day when received before 12:00 p.m. PST. Orders in high demand will have an estimated production time listed on its product page and will ship according to the date listed.

Customer Reviews

Battery compartment design is weak. I have anther Moscow and ot would come lose on top. Screws are so small. I also woul brace the battery with strap due to rattling. Otherwise love my moscow

We purchased the NCM Moscow 29 E bike from Leon Cycles earlier this month. Communication was via 'Whatsapp' which I initially thought a little odd but worked out well. Once communication established the transaction was completed quickly and easily. We were able to arrange for the team to assemble the bike for us and we picked it up from the warehouse without an issue. We love the bike and are continuing to find new places to discover using it. Competitive price and great service.

I ordered the bike 4 days ago and today it arrived. Now my first impressions: it is easy to assemble, looks great, is cleanly finished and after a first short driving test I have to say, the hammer. It's totally easy to drive. If it stays that way, I can only say thank you Leon Cycle. Now I can cycle again, despite knee problems. Price-performance top

Great bike, this is my second e bike and by far the best. Watching e bikes over the last 10 years I think the Moscow 29er is fantastic. I live in the Dandenongs outside Melbourne with big steep hills and the Moscow takes them all on with great pulling power and gear range. 48v with 16 amps means over 750 watts of power. The bike is big and serious so getting on and off can be tricky but you do get used to it. With the previous bike (36v at 8amps) I was scared of running out of battery on a big hill and having to push the bike home but not with the Moscow. Also if you take the front wheel off you can get it in a hatchback like my Mazda 3 Which is nice. At $2200 it is a great buy.

Purchased two Moscow 27.5. One for my wife, one for me. Fast delivery, well boxed and easy assembly. Absolutely FANTASTIC to ride and use. Great range, and enough power for steep hills and tough terrain. I highly recommend them. Exactly as advertised and brochure. Looked at many options from other suppliers but these are the best value for money. If anyone wants a little extra range and a few more features then a Moscow Plus may suit. 48 Volt is the way to go. Great support and assistance from the team at Leon to make the right purchase decision. Hope other people may enjoy the ride and quality product. Harry G

trek bike lock

Highlighted Features

trek bike lock

Das-Kit 500W Motor

trek bike lock

Ergonomic handlebar grips

trek bike lock

Moscow 48V disc brake

Product specifications.

Battery: Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16Ah, 768Wh

Hub Motor Rated / Peak Power: Das-Kit, X15, 48V 500W / 750W

Display: Das-Kit, C7

trek bike lock

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