scotland highlands train tour

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5 Scenic Trains for Exploring Scotland's Dramatic Highlands, Sparkling Lochs, and Coastal Towns

By Marisel Salazar

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The best train rides in Scotland will have you witnessing the drama of the Scottish Highlands, exploring charming castles, and chasing some of the world's best whisky. You’ll be treated to sweeping vistas of some of the most beautiful landscapes in the United Kingdom. Imagine chugging past glittering lochs, breathtaking glens, and vast moors, all while enjoying a meal in a stately dining car or relaxing in a plush cabin. 

Around the world, train journeys are experiencing a great revival , with travelers realizing they’re a scenic, eco-friendly, and affordable mode of transportation. In Scotland, riders can also snag a  discounted rail pass from  ScotRail , which can save a third off the price of an already inexpensive journey. 

And if you would rather have your train tour planned for you, there are a growing number of companies that will book and curate a rail-based adventure in Scotland for you or a group, like  Vacations by Rail .

The most difficult part of your Scottish train travels will be selecting which of these spectacular lines you want to take. Here are five of the best train rides in Scotland—plus, where to stay and what to do along the way.

The West Highland Line takes passengers from Glasgow to either Oban or Mallaig, both picturesque coastal towns in Scotland.

The West Highland Line

Arguably one of the most visually stunning  parts of Scotland , the Highlands are filled with dramatic peaks and valleys, craggy hilltops, and glassy lochs. The West Highland Line starts in Glasgow and runs more than 180 miles to either Oban or Mallaig, two tiny picturesque fishing ports that are resort towns in their own right, as well as departure points for travel onward to the surrounding Scottish Isles. 

Along the way, you’ll cruise by charming towns and villages until the line splits at Crianlarich: One branch of the route heads by Loch Awe to Oban, the other towards the coastline through Highland forest and onto Fort William to the train route's final stop: the petite bustling port town of Mallaig.

Many travelers consider the Fort William to Mallaig portion as the nicest section of The West Highland route. The hills of Fort William, a town in Lochaber, set the scene for many iconic films and shows like Starz’s  Outlander . On this leg of the route, travelers can spot the ruins of Old Inverlochy Castle on the right just before crossing the River Lochy, the Glenfinnan Viaduct as seen in the ‘Harry Potter’ movies. Halfway between Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy stops, there is another famous looped viaduct known as the Horseshoe Curve. On the northbound routes, sit on the left-hand side of the train for the best views and on the right side on southbound trains.

For a taste of Highland hospitality, spend a night or two at the charming  Ballachulish Hotel in Glencoe along the way from Glasgow to Fort William. Pop into the Ben Nevis Distillery for a quick whisky tasting and tour. (Fort William station is only 10 minutes walk from the bottom of the tourist track up Ben Nevis, Scotland's highest peak).

Tickets for the West Highland Line start around $30.87 (£25.40) from Glasgow to Mallaig on  ScotRail for a single fare in a standard cabin but vary depending on how far they are booked in advance and length of the trip.  

The Kyle Line runs through mountain ranges and past tranquil lochs

Kyle Line from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh

The most distinctive mountain ranges in Scotland, the Torridon Peaks, loom north along the Kyle Line to Kyle of Lochalsh. Depart from Inverness to take on even more breathtaking scenery of the Highlands. Passengers glide past sleepy coastal villages and hulking mountains towering over tranquil lochs. The Kyle line draws a wide curve from Inverness along the coast south to the shores of Loch Alsh, with views of the Isle of Skye at the line's end. 

Jessica Puckett

Cassie Shortsleeve

Arati Menon

On the less than three-hour journey to Kyle of Lochalsh from Inverness, keep an eye out for the snow-capped Ben Nevis mountain, the country's tallest mountain that sits 4,411 feet above sea level, between Muir of Ord and Dingwall stops. Then glimpse the rolling Torridon Hills to the west before the Achnashellach Forest stop. Ride the line along Loch Carron to the Plockton stop, a charming town dotted with palm trees that was used for BBC series  Hamish Macbeth and  The Wicker Man .

At the end of the line at Kyle of Lochalsh, catch a quick cab ride to tour the spectacular 13th-century Eilean Donnan castle, one of Scotland’s most widely recognizable castles that sits on a small island where three sea lochs converge. 

If returning to Inverness, travelers can stay at the 19th century  Ness Walk , a five-star property on the banks of the River Ness or  Kingsmills Hotel , a four-star luxury spa hotel that mixes contemporary design with historic period features. Make sure to grab a wee dram at  The Malt Room , Inverness’ first whisky bar, followed by  Hootananny , a ceilidh cafe for live traditional Scottish folk music (even Mumford and Sons have played here). 

Kyle Line fares start around $18.48 (£15.20) from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh on  ScotRail for a single fare in a standard cabin but vary depending on how far they are booked in advance and length of the trip. 

The Royal Scotsman is a luxurious journey that begins in Edinburgh and takes passengers up into the Scottish Highlands.

The Royal Scotsman, a Belmond Train

The only true luxury train on the list, the Royal Scotsman is a sleek nine coaches, clad in Burgundy and operated by Belmond. First launched in 1985, the all-inclusive train offers exquisite accommodations reminiscent of an Edwardian country house and fine-dining cuisine. Each of the train cars are refurbished 1960s Pullman coaches. 

Tours start at the Edinburgh Waverley station, where ticket holders follow a bagpiper dressed in traditional Scottish garb from the first class lounge to the platform. Once on board, passengers can settle into plush armchairs in the observation car lounge—complete with coffee tables and a bar that serves a wide assortment of Scottish whisky —while enjoying the gorgeous scenery of the Highlands. 

Meals are cooked on board and served in mahogany-walled dining cars that feature Scottish produce, meats, and seasonal fish alongside wines, liqueurs, and malt whiskies. Private wood-paneled cabins feature beds fitted with soft Scottish wools and tartans and also include an en suite shower, toilet, desk, table, wardrobe, toiletries, bathrobes, and slippers. The train also includes two spa cabins.

Itineraries range from two to seven days long and include sightseeing stopovers and overnight hotel stays. New routes are scheduled to start from April 2023 onwards, but bookings are selling out fast. Tickets start at $4,789 (£4,000) for single occupancy on Belmond’s  site or through  Vacations by Rail.  

The Far North Line connects Inverness with the northern reaches of the Highlands

The Far North Line

Take a four-hour journey on Britain’s most rural railway through hundreds of miles of peatland bogs, tiny hamlets, golf courses, quaint train stops, and salmon rivers. The single track Far North Line connects Inverness with destinations Thurso and Wick at the northern limits of the Highlands. It’s remote, rugged, and spectacularly wild.

The route is the same as the Kyle of Lochalsh line up until Dingwall, where the lines split. Passengers shimmy up the coast until the Tain stop, where the line then plunges into the lands of Sutherland and Caithness, across peat bogs and Flow Country, whilst crossing salmon fishing rivers. Flow Country is a vast wetland blanket bog and peat habitat, an important environmental landscape for preventing climate change and a proposed UNESCO  World Heritage site . 

Passengers can spot a few castles from the train route after departing Inverness: Just after the Tain stop is the glorious and exclusive Skibo Castle (formerly frequented by Andrew Carnegie) across the sea inlet Dornoch Firth, followed by the hilltop (and supposedly haunted) Carbisdale Castle after the Culrain stop. Then cruise past the thick and mysterious Balblair Wood, midway between the Rogart and Golspie stops on the shores of Loch Fleet. And if you fancy one more castle, the train will take you to the Dunrobin Castle station, where you can stop off and show your train ticket for discounted entry to the gigantic “home” (with more than 189 rooms, this castle is one of Britain's oldest continuously inhabited houses).

For a stay along the way, the  Glenmorangie House off the Tain stop is a boutique hotel set amongst breathtaking Highland scenery, near the  Glenmorangie Distillery . The award-winning  Mackays Hotel in Wick is just a three-minute walk from Wick stop, run by the same family for over 60 years. It’s welcoming, warm, and cozy.

Tickets for the Far North Line start around $14 (£17.02) from Inverness to Thurso and Wick on  ScotRail for a single fare in a standard cabin but vary depending on how far they are booked in advance and length of the trip. 

The Borders Railway Line whisks passengers from Edinburgh to Tweedbank

The Borders Railway

Explore the “land of Sir Walter Scott” on The Borders Railway line, through former mining towns, wide open farmland, and lush valleys.

Departing from Edinburgh , take in the breathtaking landscapes of the rocky slopes and cliffs of Salisbury Crags in Holyrood Park. You can’t miss Arthur’s Seat, a massive, grass-covered hill that is the remains of an ancient extinct volcano jutting out from the crags. Then pass through the Midlothian. Time it right and you can catch beautiful sunsets between the Gorebridge and Stow stops. Then onto the hills, lochs, farmlands, and cairns (manmade stone piles) of the Scottish Borders to Tweedbank. Tweedbank is also the stop of Abbotsford House, the home of Sir Walter Scott, and the historic market town of Melrose that includes the famous abbey ruins—a quick taxi or bus ride from the station. 

Despite being the longest new domestic railway to be built in over 100 years, the line only takes an hour from Edinburgh to Tweedbank.

Start or end your journey in Edinburgh with a stay at the incredible new  Virgin Hotel Edinburgh , on colorful and curved Victoria Street in the Old Town, one of the most photographed locations in the city. If looking for something along the Borders Railway line, try the  Schloss Roxburghe at Kelso, off the Galashiels stop, the penultimate station on the route. This elegant hotel is part of a historic estate in the Scottish Borders, with a championship golf course, spas, heated swimming pool, and restaurant that offers “Scottish bistronomy.”

Fares for the Borders Railway start around $14.46 (£11.90) from Edinburgh to Tweedbank on  ScotRail for a single fare in a standard cabin but vary depending on how far they are booked in advance and length of the trip.

Recommended

Links House at Royal Dornoch

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Experience the Magic of a Scotland Train Holiday on The Royal Scotsman Train Tour

Train tours of Scotland, simply put, don’t come any more baronial or monumental by nature than onboard the spectacular Royal Scotsman. You can journey aboard this wonderful transportable traditional country house and experience the quite remarkable grandeur of the country’s Highlands on this extraordinary luxurious Scotland train tour.

View all the Royal Scotsman tours we offer to get your trip going.

Cabin Classes

Full details on the cabin classes available on the Royal Scotsman.

Life On Board

Learn about life on board the Royal Scotsman Luxury Train.

Frequently asked questions about the Royal Scotsman luxury train.

Royal Scotsman Luxury Train Tours

Below are the rail tours we offer that use the Royal Scotsman. Just click on any tour to open a PDF containing all you need to know about the trip including a detailed itinerary, dates and prices.

● Please remember that booking as far ahead as you can in advance is essential for these trains ●

2 Nights From UK £ 4,400 per person

Contact us for quotes in other currencies

Travel straight into the heart of the Scottish Highlands, visiting enchanting sites of natural beauty and making the most of the thrilling outdoor activities

3 Nights From UK £ 6,400 per person

Explore the rugged landscapes of the West coast of Scotland

Embark on a captivating journey through Scotland’s untamed beauty.

4 Nights From UK £ 8,300 per person

Discover the wild wonders and picturesque scenery that Scotland has to offer

4 Nights From UK £ 8,900 per person

Dive into Scotland’s finest estates with untold stories and guided tours

Embark on an adventure with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, our partner for this unique journey through Scotland

5 Nights From UK £11,200 per person

Discover Scotland through the ages with unique sceneries and intriguing experiences

5 Nights From UK £ 10,400 per person

Be spirited away as you retrace part of the famed West Highland Line

A combination of the traditional Highland and scenic Western journeys

7 Nights From UK £ 14,700 per person

Explore the many wonders of the Scottish Highlands at a leisurely pace

Head West and explore the many wonders of the Scottish Highlands at a leisurely pace

Royal Scotsman Luxury train Gallery

A selection of photos below give a flavour of life on board the Royal scotsman Luxury Train.

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How can we help, which royal scotsman trips are you interested in, how did you hear about us, discover scotland train tours: unveil the spirit of scotland with our inspired itineraries..

It’s fair to say that the country has rather the reputation for being home to some truly breathtaking scenery, of which you’ll be immersed fully during a Royal Scotsman train holiday in Scotland. You are promised a captivating and awe-inspiring adventure when you depart Waverley Station in Edinburgh at the opening of the Royal Scotsman trips with beautifully curated itineraries that will generate an abundance of memories that will stay with you evermore.

The Royal Scotsman tour itineraries have been designed to provide the most meaningful on-route exploits. Each of our Scotland rail tours will deliver exceptional experiences that other rail holidays in Europe or farther afield can’t offer. You get to visit the country’s most spectacular country houses, National Parks, the finest distilleries, partake in the odd dram of malt whiskey, and many more unforgettable gems that are yours to enjoy as part of the Scotsman train journey.

The Royal Scotsman Journey: From Breathtaking Landscapes to Gourmet Delights, Embark on a Cinematic Train Tour.

If there is one thing Scotland has, and has it in abundance, it’s spectacular and breathtaking landscapes. Trips on the Royal Scotsman set off from Edinburgh, the country’s capital city, and treat its passengers to some of the most wondrous panoramas anywhere in Europe. Enjoy the stunning vistas from the open observation deck along the Royal Scotsman train route or from the luxurious dining car as you are treated to the finest Scottish produce as you indulge in a magical, fine dining experience on the Royal Scotsman train journey.

Train Holidays in Scotland: Step into Luxury with the Belmond Royal Scotsman’s Grand Suites

While it can be claimed, quite rightfully, that all accommodations onboard for the Royal Scotsman train holidays are luxurious, it wouldn’t be an exaggeration to state that the edition of the Grand Suites has taken luxury train travel to the next level. Scotland rail tours enjoyed from these stunning suites would undoubtedly be a once-in-a-lifetime experience for most passengers looking to procure the Royal Scotsman tickets that come with a promise of complete luxury.

The tone of each Grand Suite is set using elaborate Edwardian wood marquetry and traditional tartan expressions to capture the mood for an incredible Scotland train tour. Inspired by conventional Highlands furniture and integrating deep blues, greens, and amber hues, these unique Grand Suites are to be savoured on the Royal Scotsman train journey as they blend into the natural landscapes of this extraordinary country as you relax on the Royal Scotsman tour.

The Royal Scotsman Route: Explore Iconic Destinations Like Kyle of Lochalsh, Fort William, and Rothiemurchus.

Train holidays in Scotland offer something distinct from other European adventures, and holidays on the Royal Scotsman train must be considered the pinnacle of luxury rail journeys. Those fortunate enough to experience the Royal Scotsman railway will be treated to a showcase of inspiring, spellbinding, and iconic destinations as part of a tour. The Royal Scotsman train price guarantees a matchless exploration of this exhilarating country.

One quintessential destination accessible through trips on the Royal Scotsman is the Rothiemurchus Estate at the centre of the Cairngorms National Park, where you could savour clay pigeon shooting or a fishing tour. The Scotsman train journey you take could also seize the incredible views of Ben Nevis as you wind your way through Fort William or experience arguably the most scenic route in Great Britain as you make your way to Kyle of Lochalsh on these prodigious Scotland train tours.

Exclusive Scotland Rail Tour Experiences: From the Dior Spa to Whisky Odysseys, Indulge in Unique Offerings.

Whichever one of the Belmond Royal Scotsman tour itineraries you choose to escape on, you’ll be spoilt for choice regarding how to spend your time, both on and off the train. While travelling along the Royal Scotsman railway, you can indulge by relaxing in your opulent cabin, taking in the stunning scenery, or enjoying the views from the open-air observation deck. And train tours of Scotland wouldn’t be complete without trying some of the 60 varieties of whiskey held on board included in the Royal Scotsman price.

The exceptional Dior Spa is a firm favourite among the Belmond Royal Scotsman passengers. As if journeying along the Royal Scotsman train route wasn’t luxurious enough, you can head to the Dior Spa Royal Scotsman and indulge and relax to your heart’s content. A shield of tranquillity awaits you at the spa as your train holiday in Scotland melts away the stresses and strains of everyday life, and you can just be at peace.

The Royal Scotsman Prices: Tailored Packages for an Unforgettable Train Holiday in Scotland.

If you have previously taken or know someone who has taken holidays on the Royal Scotsman train, you’ll unquestionably appreciate the variety of world-class experiences and luxury that await when you board the Royal Scotsman. Cost and value are different, and when you arrange tailored packages for the Royal Scotsman trips, you know you are getting incredible value for money by exploring a stunning country from the luxury of one of the world’s most joyful forms of transport.

Interested in the Royal Scotsman Tours for 2024? Speak To Our Experts Today!

The Royal Scotsman train holidays for 2024 from The Luxury Train Travel Company provide you with the perfect escape where you can luxuriate and relax. If you want to learn more about our beautifully crafted Scotland train tours and the Royal Scotsman prices, please contact us today and speak with an expert who will gladly answer any questions and guide you in arranging a dream adventure on the Belmond Royal Scotsman train.

THE MOST POPULAR QUESTIONS

The royal scotsman train holidays faqs, what makes the royal scotsman train tours unique.

There are many things that make the Royal Scotsman unique as a leading luxury train and assist in its operating along some of Europe’s most scenic routes. The train itself was first introduced in 1985, and thanks to its incredible country house-like interior and unrivalled amenities, these Scotland train tours are booked by people from all walks of life and from countries around the world. With sumptuous cabins and two incredible fine dining cars, the world’s finest whiskey, and impeccable staffing, and then you have the stunning Scottish landscape and tour destinations. It’s little wonder why these train tours in Scotland are so loved.

How does the Belmond Royal Scotsman ensure a luxurious experience?

From the second you arrive at Waverley Station in Edinburgh to board the Belmond Royal Scotsman, you’ll be welcomed by the crew and made to feel comfortable. On the train, the ambience is set. You’ll enjoy top-quality accommodation, fine dining in the two restaurant cars, where you’ll be served incredible meals using fresh local Scottish ingredients, and the most luxurious Christian Dior Spa. To the fantastic crew of 20 who care for your every wish, world-class panoramic views, tour destinations, and experiences. The Royal Scotsman tour itineraries were curated to provide passengers with the best of everything, so the Royal Scotsman train journey provided the height of luxury and indulgence.

Can you provide more details about the Royal Scotsman Train Route?

There are several Scotland rail tours aboard the Belmond Royal Scotsman. Each tour will begin in Edinburgh at Waverley Station. There is a 2-night Taste of The Highlands tour, which journeys straight into the heart of the Scottish Highlands, visiting Rothiemurchus, Boat of Garten, Culloden, Keith, and Dundee before heading back to Edinburgh. If you want something longer, you could book the northbound 7-night Grand Western Scenic Wonders adventure. Again, departing Edinburgh on day 1, these train tours of Scotland take you to Kilmarnock, Isle of Bute, Bridge of Orchy, Spean Bridge, Dundee, Boat of Garten, Kyle of Lochalsh, Keith, and finally back to Edinburgh. Ten different routes are on offer from the Royal Scotsman railway, including 2,3,4,5, and 7-night tours.

Are there different packages available for the Royal Scotsman Tours?

The Royal Scotsman train price list isn’t necessarily cast in stone. The train tours have set routes, but if you want to add an off-train excursion that fits in with the train’s scheduled stops, feel free to speak to one of our team members, who will help arrange it. Train holidays in Scotland provide a special way of viewing some of Great Britain’s most spectacular scenery and destinations. With ten unique Scotland rail tours available through us, you’ll no doubt find one that fits your schedule and budget.

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EDINBURGH AND THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS BY TRAIN

Traverse scotland’s most spectacular landscapes and discover its most enchanting towns and cities., about your trip.

Having entered Scotland in style via train, this seven-day tour kicks off in the characterful city of Glasgow. From there we’ll journey up into the Scottish Highlands, carving through the countryside from Fort William to Mallaig. We’ll adventure on, via ferry, to the Isle of Skye – before rejoining the railway the following day to Inverness. After a generous dose of art and culture, it’s south along the tracks to Aviemore, for a jaw-droppingly picturesque walk in the Cairngorms. Edinburgh – Scotland’s muscular, medieval capital – is our final stop, where we’ll visit the castle and raise a toast to an adventure to remember.

Trip Highlights

• Travel into and around Scotland in style via scenic countryside rail routes
• Get into the Scottish spirit with a whisky tasting session at Glengoyne Distillery
• Explore the isle of Skye by boat and on a guided walk
• Dive into Inverness’s art scene
• Strike out on a scenic hike in the Cairngorms
• Receive the royal treatment on a guided tour of Edinburgh

Your Itinerary

Welcome to the highlands.

You’ll make a scenic arrival into Scotland. After meeting our Local Insider at London Euston station and carving through the north of England, we’ll crossover into the magical Scottish countryside, whizzing past lochs, woodlands and craggy hilltops en route to Scotland’s charismatic second city, Glasgow, where we’ll settle for the night. It’s the perfect way to enter the country, and a thrilling tease for the natural splendour that awaits over the next week.

Accommodation

Sandman glasgow, activities included.

• Train from London Euston to Glasgow

Warm up with a whisky tasting

After breakfast at the hotel we’ll head out this morning on a walking tour of Glasgow. The city is Scotland’s most populous, with economic heft and an impressive collection of cultural institutions, as well as two iconic football clubs and an unmistakably Scottish sense of civic pride. Having learnt all about Glasgow we’ll take you for a well-earned lunch to tuck into some locally sourced delicacies, before heading to the Glengoyne Distillery on the outskirts of the city, where a warming whisky tasting awaits – the perfect introductory toast to Scotland! Cockles warmed, we’ll wind through the spectacular Trossachs National Park to reach our country hotel for the night, where we’ll also tuck into a hearty group dinner.

Knipoch House Hotel

• Glasgow City Tour
• Welcome lunch
• Whiskey Tasting at Glengoyne Distilery

Visit the Isle of Skye

Today is an epic adventure in itself. After breakfast, we’ll make our way to the small fishing town of Mallaig. After some time for lunch, we’ll ferry across the glassy waters of Loch Nevis to the Isle of Skye before transferring to the remote waterside hamlet of Elgol, where we’ll meet the Mackinnon family, who’ve lived and worked there since the 1300s. Today, their business is showing people the jaw-dropping beauty of this slice of Scotland, with a boat trip (plus a brief walk) to Loch Coruisk. Keep your eyes peeled for dolphins along the way. We’ll end the day with a transfer to our accommodation in Kyle of Lochalsh, stopping off en route to snap photos of Eilean Donan Castle – one of Scotland’s most famous, and spectacular, castles.

Plockton Inn

• Ride the Jacobite steam train to Mallaig
• Take a boat trip to Loch Coruisk on the Isle of Skye

All aboard to Inverness

After yesterday’s cross-country expedition, we’re taking things a little easier. Around midday we’ll head to Plockton station for the train to Inverness – a leisurely clop across the width of the Highlands, with plenty of gorgeous scenery thrown in. Once in the city we’ll head to the Inverness Museum and Art Gallery for an expert-led tour of its all-thing-Highlands collection. You’ll then have the rest of the day free to explore the city at your own pace – check out the castle, for city-wide views, and take a walk along the River Ness.

Craigmonie Hotel

• Train from Plockton to Inverness
• Private tour of the Inverness Museum and Art Gallery

Take in the sublime scenery of the Cairngorms National Park

We’re getting back on track today, as we take the train south from Inverness to Aviemore. This small town offers easy access to the ski slopes, glassy lochs and ancient woodland that make up the extraordinary Cairngorms National Park. We’ll spend the rest of the morning and the first half of the afternoon exploring on foot with a guided walk, before we hop back on the train to our final destination: Edinburgh. After checking into your hotel in the capital, you’ll have the evening to yourself. Catch a show, join a spooky ghost tour, gorge on a deep fried Mars bar or hole up in a classically cosy Edinburgh pub.

BW Kings Manor Hotel

• Train from Inverness to Aviemore
• Guided walk in the Cairngorms National Park
• Train from Aviemore to Edinburgh

A royal send-off

Today is our last full day, so we’re going out in style with an Insider-led tour of the Royal Mile, leading all the way to Edinburgh Castle, which overlooks the city from its lofty position on Castle Rock. The views are stupendous, and it’s not hard to see why this imposing fortress – one of the oldest in Europe – has remained standing so long, despite being the most besieged place in Britain. Tour over, you’ll have the rest of the day to see Edinburgh at your own pace – take a stroll in Princes Street Gardens, browse the Edinburgh Farmers Market and dip into the National Museum of Scotland. Just make sure you’re available to meet back up with the rest of the group in the evening for a farewell dinner – where we’ll swap highlights and toast to what we hope has been a rail-y good time!

• Guided tour of the Royal Mile
• Farewell dinner

See you later, Scotland!

Enjoy a final breakfast in the Scottish capital before checking out and making your way home, or on to other adventures.

What's Included

• Six nights accommodation
• Six breakfasts
• Two Dinners
• Whiskey tasting at Glengoyne Distillery
• Boat trip to Loch Coruisk on the Isle of Skye
• Train travel across Scotland, including a ride the Jacobite steam train
• Glasgow city tour

What's Not Included

• Travel insurance
• Hotel Transfers (unless otherwise stated in the itinerary)

Customer Reviews

This brand new hotel, found between Glasgow’s West End and the city centre, places you perfectly to explore the city’s cultural highlights and foodie gems. The hotel itself is a cosy, modern four-star establishment that also houses Chop Grill & Bar, where local Scottish ingredients are the focus from breakfast to dinner and into cocktail hour – award winning Donald Russell steaks and Haggis bon-bons await.

Knipoch House Hotel (or similar)

This west coast Highlands hotel is brimming with country charm, from the warm interiors of its restaurant and bar to the luxurious king-size bedding in your room. The house overlooks Loch Feochan, with sweeping views of nearby mountains and islands, which you can enjoy as you tuck into your locally sourced full Scottish breakfast, or perhaps over a glass of something stronger in the evening – the selection of wine, gin and, of course, whisky here is sensational.

This characterful family-run pub with rooms on the edge of Loch Carron epitomises Scottish hospitality. Rooms are simple but homely, with a nautical theme to the decor. Downstairs, the pub bar hums softly with local chit-chat, while the kitchen serves up fresh, locally-caught seafood. Please note that Plockton Inn consists of multiple buildings, so room styles may vary.

It’s hard to believe that you’re just minutes away from central Inverness when you’re in the quaint leafy surrounds of this storied old hotel, which dates back to 1880. Think country house vibes in the city, with a cosy bar to keep the cockles warm, and a free-to-use indoor pool and sauna, for that refreshing start to the day.

Our home in the capital will be a laid-back spot on the eastern suburbs of Edinburgh, near the golden sands of Portobello Beach. The building was once a convent, but now stands as a relaxing place to stay on the edge of the city. You’re just 20 minutes from Edinburgh Castle, but you also have an indoor pool and sauna to keep you invigorated, as well as a variety of spa treatments bookable at reception.

COVID Safety

The safety and wellbeing of all travellers is our top priority. To help us ensure this, please refer to this checklist:

• Please check the entry requirements for the destination you are travelling to. Our travel experts can assist you in finding this information.
• We recommend you confirm all guidance on official government sites and check that you are able to travel with your travel insurance issuer. Your travel insurance may be invalidated if you travel against government advice. Our travel experts can assist you in finding this information.

Important Info

• The Jacobite Steam Train 2024 service has been put on hold until further notice. We are reviewing this situation with the train operator directly. If the service is cancelled on any specific departure, we will look into refunding customers and find best alternative to the itinerary.
• You must be aged 18 years or over to join this trip.
• Please be sure to check whether or not you need a visa to enter the country you're travelling to. Please refer to our Booking Terms & Conditions for further information.
• If you have any pre-existing medical conditions or accessibility requirements, please notify our Customer Support team as soon as possible.
• To upgrade to a private room, or book pre- and post-trip accommodation and/or airport transfers, please contact our Customer Support team.
• Please be aware that travel insurance is compulsory for all travellers.
• Please be aware that the itinerary, activities and hotels are subject to change. While unlikely, these changes can happen due to circumstances beyond our control. We will always do our best to ensure minimal impact on your experience.
• Please be aware images on this page are for illustrative purposes and may not reflect your itinerary exactly.

Additional Info

Cancellation policy.

If you cancel 56 days or more before your scheduled departure date, you will receive a 100% refund. Otherwise, the total cost of your trip is:

• 100% payable if you cancel 29 days or less before your departure date.
• 50% payable if you cancel between 30 - 55 days before your departure date.

Please note you can only book this trip in advance up to 14 days before the departure date. After this time the trip may be booked on request.

Terms & Conditions

Please refer to our Booking Terms & Conditions .

Hassle-Free Booking

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Visiting the Highlands of Scotland

The Scottish Highlands are a dazzling force of nature that has to be seen to be believed. The setting of numerous Hollywood blockbusters, the Highlands, offers daring explorers the chance to escape the bustle of city life and reconnect with raw, rural beauty.

Why the Scottish Highlands?

From breathtaking scenery to tranquil spaces teeming with wildlife, the Scottish Highlands provides a truly unique opportunity for nature enthusiasts to escape to a beautiful wilderness untouched by time.  

For nature lovers, the Scottish Highlands are an essential visit that offers the experience of a lifetime.

Isle of Skye

Northern highlands.

Famed for its dramatic landscapes, Skye is a treasure trove of natural wonders and historic treasures. The towering Cuillins dominate the skyline, and the Trotternish peninsula is home to weird rock formations, including Kilt Rock and the Old Man of Storr.   

Portree is the main town on the island, which is set around a picturesque harbour. 

Follow the famous North Coast 500 route to experience epic scenery and spectacular coastal panoramas. Uncover fairytale castles and visit quaint fishing villages built during the herring boom of the early 1900s. At John O’Groats pose for a souvenir selfie at Britain’s most northerly village. 

History and tradition are reflected in countless castles and numerous whisky distilleries where visitors can enjoy a unique taste of Scotland. And the Highlands have their own language – Gaelic- which can be appreciated in songs, storytelling and traditional music.                                                

For the nature lover, the Highlands offer unparalleled opportunities for mountaineering, hillwalking, sailing and birdwatching. Discover ospreys, eagles, grouse and capercaillie as well as reindeer, dolphins and otters.  

Scottish Rail Tours will show you the very best of the Highlands in the company of a local guide. As expert storytellers, they bring Scotland’s history to life with enthusiasm and passion. You’ll see all the main sights, of course, but with local knowledge, they will take you to hidden gems that only a local would know about.  

Scottish Highland Attractions

Loch Ness – take to the water on a monster-spotting cruise to see the impressive ruins of Urquhart Castle  

Glen Coe – famous as “The Glen of Weeping”, the beauty of this impressive valley will simply take your breath away.  

Jacobite Steam Train – take one of the World’s great rail trips on the West Highland Line aboard the real Hogwarts Express  

Oban – discover how this attractive Victorian seaside town has become the seafood capital of Scotland and Gateway to the Isles  

Cairngorms National Park – The wilderness of the Cairngorm Mountains stretches for over 2,000 square miles and is famed for its scenic beauty and wildlife  

Fort William – explore this bustling town that sits on the banks of Loch Linnhe and in the shadow of Ben Nevis, Britain

destinations

Edinburgh Glasgow Inverness Scottish Highlands

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Scotland Rail Tours

Our rail tours of scotland.

As Britain rail travel specialists, we have put together a select number of Scotland-only rail tours to complement our selection Britain-wide rail trips; choose from our suggested Scotland rail itineraries as featured below or work with your adeo Travel vacation expert to develop your Scotland by train programme. Scotland has a simple but far-reaching rail network and is home to some of the world’s most scenic rail journeys making it a superb destination for independent travellers to explore by train.

The Heart of Scotland line, the Western Highland Line and the Northern Highland Line are just some of Scotland’s famous rail routes which regularly feature amongst the world’s greatest railway journeys in travel guide polls, surveys and articles. Experience them all yourself, on an adeo Travel Scotland rail tour when you can take in views such as the remote Northern Highlands, the desolate Rannoch Moor and cross the stunning Glenfinnan Viaduct, made famous in the Harry Potter movies. The Scottish rail network reaches far in to the Northern Highlands and Scotrail trains generally run promptly and efficiently with comfortable carriages and consistent on-board services; all this, combined with a selection of dedicated Scotland-only rail passes, makes a rail tour of Scotland an exciting, comfortable and cost-effective way to explore this nation.

Our independent Scotland rail tours come with a host of inclusions as standard; we’ll always provide your flexible Scotland Britrail passes for your daily rail travel, all overnight accommodation and our comprehensive travel documents pack – not to mention ferry crossings and small-group day excursions on selected tours. Your hotels will be conveniently located for the railway station in each destination, we’ll always select the rail pass which best suits your travel needs and your adeo Travel documents contain plenty of practical information such as rail schedules dedicated to your specific itinerary, not to mention our additional hints and tips.

The rugged terrain of the north of Scotland means that the rail network in the Highlands is limited, but your rail tour itinerary itself remains completely flexible within the confines of this network. Your adeo Travel vacation expert will be happy to offer their advice to help you tailor your trip to suit you by extending your stays or adding destinations as preferred. The remote regions in the Highlands are best explored by locally operated day-tours, so be sure to ask us about integrating these in to your itinerary in certain destinations!

An adeo Travel rail tour of Scotland offers the independent traveller an ideal alternative to driving through Scotland; a flexible itinerary, carefully planned travel plan and a relaxing, stress-free means of transport await, not to mention some of the most breath-taking rail journeys found anywhere in the world.

  Key features

• Customizable itineraries
• Fully flexible rail travel throughout Scotland via the official Britrail system
• All overnight accommodation to suit your preferences and budget
• Full cooked Scottish breakfast each morning
• Easy-to-understand rail schedules specific to your itinerary
• Expert advice from your adeo Travel Britain Expert during the planning of your trip
• A dedicated out-of-hours contact number for use during travel
• Full travel documents pack including suggested sightseeing outline Britain map travel vouchers and our local rail hints and tips.

  Tour benefits

• Excellent value rail travel with rates exclusively available to overseas visitors to Britain
• Britrail rail Scotland-only and regional passes selected to suit your specific tour itinerary
• Relaxing travel – sit back and enjoy the views
• Travel independently but with the support of adeo Travel’s local expertise
• Travel at your own pace and choose how long you spend in each destination
• Travel when you want
• you’re not tied to set departure dates
• Decide on your level of accommodation and we’ll propose the specifics
• Hassle-free planning with your own dedicated expert.

Scotland Rail Tour – Experience some of Britain’s most spectacular and scenic rail journeys as you explore Scotland and the Scottish Highlands by train.  Your epic Scottish rail trip will take you from the vibrant cities of Edinburgh and Glasgow to Scotland’s scenic West Coast, through the dramatic Scottish Highlands and over the sea to the remote Isle of Skye. A hand-picked selection of small-group day tours will allow you to discover the remote landscapes and sites of the Highlands and Skye which cannot be reached by rail alone.

A Scottish Rail Tour – Traverse the rails of central Scotland and the Eastern Highlands on this train trip to experience the heart of Scotland.  This rail journey takes you from the bright lights of Edinburgh through the historic highland towns of Stirling, Inverness, Aberdeen and the lesser-known gem of Pitlochry. You’ll enjoy Scenic rail journeys through the Cairngorm Mountains and over the Grampian Highlands whilst selected day-tours from Inverness and Aberdeen will enable you to experience the mysteries of Loch Ness and Royal Deeside.

Scottish Highlands Rail Tour – Enjoy some of the world’s most beautiful rail journeys as you tour the scenic Western Highlands and the West Coast of Scotland by train. Experience the famous West Highland Line, cross the iconic Glenfinnan Viaduct and travel over the sea to the tranquil Isle of Skye. You’ll experience the best of both worlds with overnight stays in the cultural cities of Glasgow, Inverness and Edinburgh and day trips to the remote landscapes of Glencoe, Skye’s northern peninsula and the shores of Loch Ness.

A Scotrail 156 Sprinter crossing Loch Awe near Dalmally

© Scotrail / Tony Hardley

4-Day West Highland Railway Line Itinerary

The West Highland Line is  one of the most scenic rail journeys in the world.

This train line runs from Glasgow north to Crianlarich. One route then goes west past Loch Awe to Oban, or north through Rannoch Moor to Fort William and Mallaig. Or you can do both!

This itinerary gives you ideas for things to do in the four main locations - Glasgow, Oban, Fort William and Mallaig.

Get the  Spirit of Scotland Travelpass  for your train travel, which gives you 4 days unlimited travel for £149 or 8 days unlimited travel (over 15 days) for £189.

• Distance 134 Miles 214 km
• Transport Train
• Main theme Landscapes

Day 1 Glasgow

Glasgow makes a perfect starting point with its great travel links to the rest of Scotland, the United Kingdom and indeed the world. It's tempting to hop straight on the train and head to the West Highlands but then you'd miss all the wonders of Glasgow! Take a day to see some of the city's highlights before you start your rail adventure. Consider taking the  City Sightseeing Bus , which links these great attractions.

The city also has a public cycle hire scheme provided by Nextbike . The scheme offers 500 bikes for   public hire at 67 locations across the city.

Plan a longer trip to Glasgow

Riverside Museum and Tall Ship Glasgow City Centre

Riverside Museum

The Riverside Museum is a visual feast - the building itself is one of the most striking modern buildings in Scotland. Inside, the museum houses all kinds of exhibits related to transport. Vehicles, bikes, and locomotives dating from different periods can be found. In addition, you can also explore the Clyde-built Tall Ship, which is berthed alongside the museum.

• Accessible Parking Or Drop-off Point
• Hearing Loop
• Level Access
• Accessible toilets

Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum Glasgow West End

Exterior of the Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery

© VisitScotland / Kenny Lam

Glasgow's trendy West End is home to Kelvingrove, a free museum packed with over 8,000 intriguing objects and artefacts. The museum houses an extraordinary collection of art, from the Dutch Old Masters and the French Impressionists, to perhaps its most famous piece, Christ of St John of the Cross by Salvador Dali.

• On Public Transport Route

UNESCO City of Music Glasgow

Glasgow Music City Tours showcase, King Tut's Wah Wah Hut

© VisitScotland / Luigi Di Pasquale

Glasgow's reputation for live music is legendary; so much so that the city has been given UNESCO City of Music status.

Why not catch a gig or a concert in one of its amazing venues? The OVO Hydro hosts all the big-name stars. You can experience roots, classical and world sounds at the Glasgow Royal Concert Hall, or see up-and-coming indie artists at the small but perfectly formed King Tut's Wah Wah Hu t .

Board an early train and take the West Highland Line to Oban, a journey which reveals Scotland's great geographic contrasts. Along the way you'll travel alongside the River Clyde, through Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park, passing the hills and glens of Argyll, before finally ending up at this cheery seaside town where the train terminates.

McCaig's Tower Oban

McCaig's Tower, Oban

Stretch your legs by taking the short climb from Oban town centre up to McCaig's Tower to admire the views across the bay and towards the isles. 

Oban Distillery Oban

Oban Distillery & Visitor Centre

Situated in the heart of Oban, take a tour and discover the history of entrepreneurial brothers Hugh and John Stevenson who founded the distillery. Choose from two tours, and let the knowledgeable tour guides tell you about the seven men who make the Oban Single Malt. 'Old Teddy' is exclusive to the distillery and was inspired by the unique and personal stories of the Maclean family, who have served the distillery on Scotland's west coast for three generations.

Gateway to the isles Oban

Oban Harbour and Pulpit Hill seen from McCaigs Tower at dawn

From Oban you can visit Colonsay, Islay, Mull, Lismore, Coll, Tiree and Barra. Once you're on the islands, enjoy a variety of outdoor activities from cycling to hillwalking, or stay out on the water with boat tours or kayaking. There are ferries between the islands, and day trips and tours to choose from.

Day 3 Fort William

If you want to do both routes of the West Highland Line, you can use the Spirit of Scotland Travelpass to take the Citylink bus directly from Oban to Fort William. This Highland town sits in the shadow of the mighty Ben Nevis, the UK's highest mountain.

Nevis Range Mountain Gondola Fort William

Nevis Range Mountain Gondola

Get a better view of Britain’s highest peak, Ben Nevis, on a gentle ride in a suspended mountain gondola up the side of Aonach Mor, one of Ben Nevis’ lofty neighbours.

Soak up the far reaching views towards Ben Nevis, Fort William, the Great Glen and the surrounding Highlands and hop off at the top station to visit the Snowgoose Restaurant & Bar, where you can have a hot drink, a tasty snack or a meal.

• Pets Welcome
• Cafe or Restaurant

West Highland Museum Fort William

West Highland Museum building

Explore the history of the west Highlands and see archaeological finds and treasures from throughout the area. The museum also has a great Jacobite exhibition with plenty of lesser-known stories to uncover.

Some of the fascinating items you can see include:

• Bonnie Prince Charlie's death mask
• A fine silk waistcoat belonging to the Prince
• A fan created for a grand ball at the Palace of Holyroodhouse
• A secret portrait of Bonnie Prince Charlie

Day 4 Mallaig

Board the train at Fort William and enjoy what is arguably the most spectacular section of the West Highland Line as you venture to Mallaig. The train tracks skirt the A830, fondly known as the Road to the Isles. The views from the train include a mix of rugged landscape and undulating coastline, and the train will traverse the impressive Glenfinnan Viaduct at the head of Loch Shiel.

Fort William to Mallaig on the Jacobite Steam Train Fort William

Glenfinnan Viaduct

© VisitScotland / Airborne Lens

The steam train had a starring role as the Hogwarts Express taking Harry from platform 9 ¾ all the way to Hogwarts.

Some say that the West Highland Line is the greatest rail journey in the world. In the summer, the Jacobite Steam Train* travels along the route in addition to the regular trains. Take the journey over the magnificent Glenfinnan Viaduct, whilst enjoying views of Loch Shiel from your window, a key location in the Harry Potter films.

* Please note that the Jacobite is only running the morning service at this time. There is no Harry Potter coach and reduced First-Class capacity.

Mallaig Heritage Centre Mallaig

Mallaig Heritage Centre

Mallaig is a small but bustling harbour village, once the busiest herring port in Europe. You could easily while away an hour watching boats and ferries come and go at the port. Pop into the Mallaig Heritage Centre and learn about the surrounding landscape and the fishing community. Feeling peckish afterwards? Then head to a café and order something tasty. For a really delicious treat, order a pint of local prawns or Mallaig kippers, if they are on the menu.

Extend Your Trip Skye

Elgol, Isle of Skye

Hop aboard a ferry to the Isle of Skye and explore the stunning island landscapes, or sail to one of the Small Isles and experience the tranquil remoteness of a rural Scottish island community.

After enjoying Skye, cross the Skye Bridge to Kyle of Lochalsh and take the  Kyle Line to Inverness .

Find out more about the West Highland Line .

Plan your onward journey with the Calmac ferry timetables.

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How to Take a Castle and Whisky Tasting Train Through the Scottish Highlands

E xperienced travelers are supposed to be pros at three things: planes, trains , and automobiles. I’ve mastered the art of finagling extra dinners on airplanes and successfully doctored a bent license plate on a rental car to avoid the damage fees I clearly deserved. The sight of train timetables, however, made my palms sweat. Crowded train cars with the inevitable soundtrack of crying babies evoked fantasies of Murder on the Orient Express , but with me as the murderer. Trains, to me, were a novelty to be watched in Harry Potter or taken to work if you didn’t have a car — not a viable way of exploring a country.

Sometimes, we hate something simply because we don’t understand it. Trains intimidated me. That’s why, when I got the opportunity to travel the Scottish Highlands by train, I said to a coworker, “It sounds like an incredible trip. You know, except for the trains.” 

In 2015 I went to grad school in Scotland and did a Scottish Highlands tour three times — all via rental car driven by a qualified left-side-of-the-road driver. I thought cars represented ultimate freedom. Trains were for an older generation, the stubborn travelers of yesterday. Trains were Charles Dickens. Cars were Jack Kerouac. 

Seven years later I skeptically stepped on a train in Scotland for the first time, and spent the next week crisscrossing on a Scottish Highlands tour through landscapes hidden from the highways. Two castles, countless whisky tastings, and 20,000 Highland cows later, I conceded: maybe Dickens isn’t so bad.

Start your Scottish Highlands tour in Edinburgh

Anyone thinking about exploring Scotland — by train or otherwise — should start in Edinburgh. Defined by its cobbled, hilly streets that could easily replace your StairMaster, a 12th-century castle, and labyrinthine alleyways (or “closes”), Edinburgh feels like a mix of London and a small Scottish village. Though I had lived in Edinburgh for a year, I got lost multiple times wandering closes I never knew existed before, and which seemed to open up around the city like portals to miniature Diagon Alleys. 

Photo: Richie Chan /Shutterstock

The city is also the best place to experience all the Scottish cliches you dreamed about on your flight over. You can take a photo with a bagpiper, try haggis and blood pudding at a hole-in-the-wall pub, shop at a kilt store, visit the Writer’s Museum dedicated to Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns, and end the night with a deep-fried Mars Bar (arguably the most Scottish thing on this list). And of course, what visit to Scotland’s capital would be complete without hitting a whisky distillery?  

The Johnnie Walker Distillery on Princes Street was a refreshing new sight for me. Opened in 2021, the distillery has several tasting rooms, a gift shop where you can craft your own whisky, a rooftop bar, and one of the most immersive tours I’ve ever taken. I’m a big whisky fan, but distillery tours almost never interest me. Not because I’m a snob. Quite the opposite. Because I don’t want to sniff or swish my drinks, learn about the density of wood in the casks, or pretend to taste complex notes when I don’t. My palate isn’t refined enough for all that. But the Johnnie Walker tour is different. 

It didn’t feel like a middle school field trip to a science museum, but a combination of Disneyland and Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. There was a live-action theatrical performance of Johnnie Walker’s history, a “scent room” where the guide shot bubbles from a gun, which burst into an aromatic mist, and a tasting room that looked like a private nightclub, with a buffet of ingredients for guests to experiment with. It sets the bar pretty high, but it’s the perfect way to kick off your Scotland whisky experience. 

The Johnnie Walker distillery isn’t the only welcome new addition to the city. Virgin Hotels on Victoria Street opened this past summer, bringing unconventional luxury to Edinburgh’s Old Town. With Virgin’s patented blend of edgy, adult-oriented decor and quirky opulence, the hotel at first feels more like a museum. A glittering, nightclub-esque entryway leads to a lobby filled with bookshelves, artwork, a fireplace, plush couches, and an old record player. In the spacious guest rooms, you’ll find a welcome note scrawled on your mirror in red lipstick, and the best-stocked minibar I’ve ever seen. One of my colleagues was lucky enough to have an attic-like bonus room, equipped with a massive divan that looked like something from Eyes Wide Shut . 

Photo: Virgin Hotels

Virgin Hotels are designed to make you never want to leave the hotel. That’d be fine if this were a remote wellness resort in the mountains. But this is Scotland, and you’ve got places to be. 

To Fort William on the West Highland Line

I understand highways. I can look at a GPS and figure out where I’m supposed to go. Train routes, however, are like long division. It’s supposed to be easy, but carry the six when you’re supposed to carry the four, and you wind up in no-man’s-land. Turns out, there’s a reason they teach long division in elementary school: It’s really not that hard. 

Photo: Eben Diskin

We took a quick train from Edinburgh to Glasgow, then the famously scenic West Highland Line from Glasgow up to Fort William. It didn’t take long before we had cleared the city limits, and the Outlander -esque landscapes started scrolling past the window. Spanning the wild west coast of Scotland, the West Highland Line brings you through the glens and lakes of Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park, the boggy Rannoch Moor, and the mountains of Glencoe, on your way to Fort William. We passed some of the tiniest rail stations I’ve ever seen, many of which looked more like tollbooths, seemingly miles from the nearest paved road. 

Photo: Joe Dunckley /Shutterstock

At one such station, two men in their mid-20s boarded and sat across from me. They looked like classic backpackers, with dusty oversized backpacks and beards that clearly hadn’t been trimmed in weeks.

“Going to Fort William?” I asked. Fort William was the only town on the line with over 1,000 people. Pretty much every passenger was going there.

“Eventually, maybe,” said one, shrugging at the other. “Not for a couple days though.”

“So you’re just winging it?” 

“Basically. Been here about two weeks now, just going around on the train. These little villages are pretty cool.”

“The one you just came from — what’d you do there?”

“Hiked a bit,” the other backpacker said. “Drank a bit. Just bummed around. There’s not much to do, I guess.”

“…but the not-doing is more fun than the doing, sometimes,” his friend chimed in. “Especially in a place like this.” 

“And getting around on the train’s been easy? Why not just drive?”

The guy laughed and nudged his friend. “I don’t trust him to drive on the left side. Or myself, either. Besides, now we don’t have to worry about gas, or getting lost, or staying awake. We just get on and off wherever looks good.”

It made perfect sense, I just didn’t expect to meet two Kerouacs on a train. 

Photo: travellight /Shutterstock

They got off a few stops later, at another station that looked like a tollbooth, while we continued to Fort William. The home base for a Scottish Highlands tour, Fort William is close to the geographically dramatic Glencoe, hill walking and bike paths, and Ben Nevis — the tallest mountain in the UK. It’s also home to the Crannog Seafood Restaurant , where I had the best oysters I’ve ever eaten in my life (coming from a New England guy, that’s saying something). From our hotel, the stately Ballachulish just outside town, it was just a few minutes’ cab to the Ben Nevis Distillery , our first whisky-tasting experience in the Highlands. 

Unlike Johnnie Walker, Ben Nevis wows not with technological flair, but by sheer natural beauty. In the shadow of Ben Nevis mountain, and surrounded by towering peaks and rolling hills, the distillery feels like it grew out of the land itself. Indeed, the tree bark in the surrounding forest has been imbued with whisky due to the evaporation process in the nearby casks. 

Still buzzing from the distillery, we boarded the West Highland Line yet again to Mallaig, the line’s terminus. While the fishing village itself is picturesque, sitting on the edge of the sea, and there was a sense of achievement in reaching the remote end of the line, this leg of the trip had one real purpose: seeing the “ Harry Potter bridge.”

An hour from Fort William, the conductor’s voice came on the speaker system for a special announcement: “We’ll be over the Glenfinnan Viaduct in just a minute now. You might recognize it as the stone bridge from Harry Potter . Best view’ll be on your right.”

Like the seatbelt sign on a plane being switched off upon landing, everyone immediately shot up from their seats. Toddlers, octogenarians, and everyone in between glued their faces to the window for a look at the famous bridge, where the Hogwarts Express scenes of the movies had been filmed. I’d always wondered why a bunch of wizards took a train to school instead of, you know, using magic to conjure a faster mode of transportation. Now I know: the views.

Take the Kyle Line from Inverness

To see another side of the Highlands, take the Kyle Line from Inverness, the capital and largest city of the Highlands. Like Fort William on the western side of the Highlands, Inverness is the perfect east coast base, with proximity to Culloden battlefield ( Outlander , anyone?) and the storied Loch Ness, where you can cruise across the lake while learning about the monster that may or may not dwell there. The cruise also brings you right alongside Urquhart Castle, a fortress dating back to the 13th century that overlooks the loch.

Photo: pql89 /Shutterstock

The Kyle Line runs across the Highlands from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh, a village on the northwest coast known as the home of Eilean Donan Castle — one of Scotland’s most dramatic medieval landmarks. 

“Is this the train to the castle?” asked a woman who had just boarded in Inverness. She was American and dressed stylishly as if she had just come from a shopping spree on Fifth Avenue.

“Yeah,” I answered. She sat in front of me. 

“Sorry, I should not have asked. I told myself I’d be more independent since the divorce. That I didn’t need a man’s help for anything. No offense.”

“Uhh, no problem.”

“That’s why I’m on this trip, I guess. To prove I can do it. Not to him…to myself.”

I could tell I was officially in the conversation, whether or not I wanted to be. 

“So you’re going around Scotland by train?” 

“A little bit of everything. He refused to travel with me, you know. He thought I was high maintenance or something. Well, look at me now, on a train to God-knows-where with hardly any luggage.”

She had two massive suitcases — each two-thirds her size — stowed in the luggage car. I wondered how she carried it all.

“Where are you going after the castle?” I asked, now interested in the woman as a character study. 

“I think I’ll spend a few days on the Isle of Skye. It’s not far from the castle.”

“The train doesn’t go to Skye. How’re you getting there?”

“I’ll figure it out,” she shrugged. “I always figure it out. I don’t need anyone’s help.”

She faced forward in her seat, signaling that the conversation was over. When we disembarked, I imagined her in a little rowboat with those two giant suitcases, determinedly paddling her way to the Isle of Skye.  

Photo: Phill Beale /Shutterstock

I completely forgot about the woman during our tour of Eilean Donan Castle , the conversation being quickly overshadowed by the location’s otherworldly beauty. On a little island in Loch Duich, Loch Long, and Loch Alsh, and connected to the mainland only by footbridge, the 13th-century castle is one of the most striking landmarks in the Highlands. The former stronghold of Clan Mackenzie, the castle was destroyed during the Jacobite rebellions of the 1700s before being reconstructed and turned into a museum. 

Back in Inverness, I quickly learned that this “Capital of the Highlands” wasn’t merely a city to rest up during your Scottish Highlands tour. We settled in for dinner at The Mustard Seed , a local favorite right on the banks of the River Ness. While Scotland is undeniably known for its seafood, I had a delicious braised duck, and one of my colleagues called the seared ribeye the “best steak they ever had.” 

Photo: Sergii Figurnyi /Shutterstock

The evening ended with a nightcap at The Malt Room , a small, stylish whisky bar tucked away in an alley. Serendipitously, we ran into one of the bar’s owners while ordering our drinks — a friendly guy in his early-30s, whose passion for Highlands whisky was immediately obvious. I had been longing for Jameson, my drink of choice back home, but realized drinking an Irish whiskey in a Highlands whisky bar would be like wearing a Red Sox hat in Yankee Stadium, and went with a Craigellachie 12 instead. 

“Have you been in Inverness long?” he asked, once we all had our drinks.

“A few days,” another journalist answered. “We’ve been going all around the Highlands, seeing distilleries, castles, little towns.” 

“Oh, wonderful. And how’re you getting around? Car?”

“Train,” I said, with more pride than I would have thought possible five days ago. 

“Well that’s a special trip, isn’t it? You see all kinds of things, meet all kinds of people — you know, colorful people — on a train that you never would otherwise.”

Only then did I remember the American woman. Even if she was a little unhinged, I admired her sense of independence, and her ability to just go and figure out the details later. To her, to those two backpackers, and now to me, the train meant freedom. 

In defense of trains

Cars are like novels. Trains are poems. They’re tough to appreciate at first, but once you understand the weight of the words, once you get it, the beauty is obvious.

Before Scotland, you could look up “rental cars” in an encyclopedia and see my smiling face leaning against one. Didn’t matter where I was going, or for how long — I’d always drive myself. Unbridled freedom, however, means reading road signs in other languages, hoping your GPS has a signal, worrying about parking on narrow European streets, and (in Scotland) driving on the opposite side of the road. On the train, I found myself actually able to switch off my brain. Relieved of the pressure of “figuring it out” every step of the way, I could actually relax and recharge. 

It’s embarrassing to admit, but it never occurred to me that train views would be any different from car views. Scotland’s railroads cut through parts of the country untouched by paved roads. We’d go hours with no glimpse of a car or highway. Indeed, as we plunged deeper into the green wilds of the countryside, it felt more like plunging into the past, into a time when castles were actually inhabited by clan leaders, and whispers of a Loch Ness Monster were just circulating. Whatever the view might be, on a train, you’re actually free to enjoy it; to press your face against the window and look at a stone bridge without crashing the car; to watch the green hills, scroll by and imagine you’re on the Hogwarts Express; or, if you so wish, to sleep. 

And perhaps the biggest benefit? The ability to get away from your friends. When you spend days traveling with people in close quarters — no matter how much you like them — you get sick of them. I genuinely enjoyed the company of the other journalists on my trip, but by day three, I couldn’t wait to put a few rows between us on the train (and I’m sure they felt the same about me). Many of us still keep in touch. Had we all been crammed into a rental car, that might not be the case. 

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This Epic Train Journey Through Scotland Is the Best Way to Experience the Country's Stunning Landscapes, Rich History, and Tasty Whisky

The best way to experience Scotland may be by rail.

There’s something I love about train travel : Even while sitting still, you don’t miss a moment. And when it comes to Scotland , the best way to experience the country is by rail. Picture undisrupted rolling hills, rivers, and highland cows for your viewing pleasure as you dunk your customary shortbread into a cup of tea. This trip is about the journey, not just the destination.

I traveled with Vacations By Rail , a rail travel and tour operator that offers memorable adventures through Scotland, whether you're traveling as a group or solo.

Holly-Marie Cato

I began my tour of Scotland in Edinburgh. From London, you can catch the train from King's Cross St. Pancras, bringing you right into the heart of Edinburgh in under five hours. I checked into the spacious Apex Waterloo Place Hotel , complete with beautiful views of the city that enticed me to go out and explore.

The sound of bagpipes followed me around the city center, with men dressed in traditional Scottish kilts. It didn't matter what plans I had made in advance, I couldn’t help but stop and enjoy the music.

Having hiked Arthur’s Seat on my first visit, I chose the family-friendly walk up Calton Hill, which offers a great view of the city and the chance to explore one of Edinburgh’s UNESCO World Heritage sites. There, you'll find the Nelson Monument — built in 1816 and with 147 steps to the top, you can experience an epic panorama looking out over Edinburgh. You'll also see National Monument, a semi-complete Greek Parthenon-like structure that even in it’s undress is altogether beautiful.

I also went on a walking tour of the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle with Mercat Tours , learning about the medieval alleyways, why the town crier still reads important news three days after an event, and how the Stone of Destiny — used to inaugurate Scottish kings — was stolen by university students.

My favorite meal in Edinburgh was at Luckenbooths . I I tried the haggis and beef shin bon bons, Cullen skink, a traditional Scottish smoked haddock and cream soup, and whisky-glazed smoke salmon. (Don't worry, I was sharing.) Even better, I learned all the food is locally sourced.

A stone's throw from the Apex Waterloo is the Waverley train station, where I caught the train to Fort William, via Glasgow, organized by Vacations By Rail.

A short drive later, I checked into Ballachulish Hotel in Glen Coe and was greeted by complimentary chocolates and the hotel's small-batch production of gin.

The best thing about Glen Coe is the landscape. I woke up early to savor the crisp autumn air. It's worth hiring a local tour guide to show you the lay of the land. Most locals have a deep and prevalent knowledge of their history, as well as where Harry Potter scenes were filmed (we went to the location of Dumbledore's house).

A 30-minute drive from Ballachulish Hotel is Ben Nevis Distillery, a must-visit during any visit. This award-winning small-batch distillery has created some of the smoothest whisky from the waters of the Ben Nevis mountain. My favorite was the 10-year-old, peat-smoked single malt, though I also liked their sherry casked Scotch — all descriptors and flavors I learned during a whisky-tasting tour.

If you're looking for an adventure, take the train down to Mallaig, a small, sleepy port with the best local fish and chips and a pleasant hiking trail. It's worth stopping here for lunch before catching a ferry over to the Isle of Skye . (I'm making it my mission to visit the island on my next Scottish venture.)

The Isle of Skye is clearly visible from the Mallaig train station. I boarded the West Highland line to Fort William, and then headed back to Glen Coe for one more night.

I traveled in style on the West Coast Railways steam train, resting against classic upholstered seats in first class and enjoying an onboard service of afternoon tea with scones, jam, and clotted cream while taking in the spectacular Highland landscape. For Harry Potter fans, listen for when the train conductor announces the Glenfinnan Viaduct is approaching, as it's seen in the Hogwarts Express.

I joined the famous Jacobite cruise and voyaged along the legendary waters of Loch Ness. The boat’s audio guide shared details about the mythical legend of the monster in the loch, as well as offered a deep dive into the Jacobite uprising and Bonnie Prince Charlie, who escaped the English army searching for him and traveled to the Isle of Skye, all with the help of a woman named Flora MacDonald in the 1700s.

From the Loch Ness to Eilean Donan Castle, there are plenty of beautiful historic sites to experience in the Highlands. Situated on a small tidal island, in the Western Highlands of Scotland and only accessible by a footbridge, Eilean Donan Castle stands proudly against the rugged landscape. 

Roaming the castle walls, you can learn how this fortified stronghold of the Clan Mackenzie was blown up by the English government in 1719 during the Jacobite rebellion. It was left in ruins for 200 years, until it was painstakingly restored in the early 1900s by their allies Clan MacRae and friends.

You'd be hard-pressed to make it to the Highlands without learning about the Jacobite uprising. Scottish history is seared into the minds of every countryman.

I ended my Scotland trip in Inverness. Even toward the final leg of the journey, I struggled to sleep in late while traveling, so I took the opportunity to walk through the city's quaint streets in the early morning. I stopped at Cup & Cone with a friend to enjoy one of the best oat cappuccinos and pastries.

As someone who doesn’t drive, I thought Scotland would be largely inaccessible to me, especially the Highlands, which is why traveling with Vacations By Rail has been so transformative. Suddenly, nothing about visiting Scotland feels daunting. I’ve sailed breezy costal waters, sipped drams of whisky in local distilleries, indulged in haggis and neeps and tatties, danced to bagpipes, bundled up in Highland wool, and strolled around a castle. The best part? Knowing I'll be back to Scotland soon.

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North Highlands & Orkney Guided Rail Tour

Orkney's Italian chapel, crafted from Nissen huts by prisoners of war.

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From Britain's oldest human imprints to Scotland’s geographical extremities, this small group tour mixes breathtaking vistas with great rail trips

This exclusive week-long small group rail tour  has been carefully designed to curate the best of Scotland’s North Coast and Orkney . Spectacular yet relaxing rail trips paired with short ferry crossings and guided tours will help you reach far-flung corners and uncover fascinating history, culture and local stories. Learn about the infamous Highland Clearances when once-thriving communities were evicted in favour of sheep. Visit – and stay on the estate of – the Queen Mother’s castle. Imagine pagan ceremonies and Neolithic everyday life while surrounded by mighty stones pre-dating the pyramids. You will be accompanied throughout by McKinlay Kidd’s knowledgeable tour leader plus spend a day with an expert local guide on Orkney.

With a maximum of 15 passengers per group, you can be sure of highly personal service from your knowledgeable tour leader on a McKinlay Kidd small group rail tour. Early booking is strongly advised as places are strictly limited.

Do not hesitate to let us know if we can assist with tailor-made arrangements for you pre or post this scheduled tour.

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Holiday Details

Day one – meet and greet in inverness.

Make your way to Inverness, where the River Ness meets the Moray Firth. Consider arriving a day or two early as there’s plenty to see – check out Britain’s first post-Reformation Cathedral, the stately 1830s castle or the fine modern art gallery and museum. You could venture just outside the city to evocative Culloden Battlefield: discover tales of warring clans which may be more complex than you realise! Or just stroll along the river or Caledonian Canal, taking in Highland views. Let us know, and we can help with arrangements.

Meet your tour leader and travelling companions for an early evening drink before a welcome dinner and hints of what to expect over the coming week.

Your accommodation in Inverness

Nestled in the heart of the capital of the Highlands, where the River Ness meets the Moray Firth, this hotel offers modern, thoughtfully designed rooms in which to relax and unwind. Situated near to shops, restaurants and the key sights to see, it’s the ideal location to explore the area. However, with a lounge bar producing hand-crafted cocktails and a tapas style-restaurant that features iconic river views, you could be excused for wanting to just enjoy its hospitality.

Day Two – Venture north by rail to a castle of grandeur

Start the day with a rail journey north. Over a hundred and fifty years old and twelve years in the making, the single track of the Far North Line meanders its way past villages and townships, by castles and across firths. Sit back and absorb the abandoned beauty of Sutherland’s Flow Country; discover the areas fascinating history from Scotland’s ill-fated goldrush to the heart-racing tale of Scotland’s last wolf. Disembark at Thurso and take a private coach to the grandest castle in the North. Castle of Mey has a rich history linking the 16 th Century Earls of Caithness to the Queen Mother & Prince Charles. Spend the afternoon wandering through the time-capsule displays of pomp and grandeur, then take a turn in the lush gardens and forest.

It’s only a short walk to your next base, looking over the Pentland Firth.

Your accommodation on Scotland’s North Coast

In the peaceful grounds of a royal residence on Scotland’s wild and windswept north coast, your accommodation in Caithness is a guest house of rare quality and fascinating history.

Set right on the shoreline, the house couldn’t be more dramatically located. The relaxing drawing room with roaring open fire presents a fine spot from which to take in the scene stretching towards Orkney, perhaps while enjoying a dram from the bar.

Day Three – Discover Britain’s true top spot

After breakfast, you’ll delve into the breathtaking vistas and wild ambience of mainland Scotland’s far north. First stop is the unique Nucleus Archives for a talk with the head archivist before the group has free reign to look through the fascinating papers and records donated over the centuries. Then it’s on to the iconic John O’Groats for lunch and a wander before stopping at a local success story. Hear tales of marauding Vikings and pirate smugglers while sipping on a selection of award-winning gins. Dunnet Bay Distillers offers an especially engaging tour and tasting event. Finish the day with a visit to mainland Britain’s genuine – and unspoilt – most northerly spot. Several miles further north than John O’Groats, Dunnet Head is a place of towering sea cliffs and lonely splendour. There’s mysterious history throughout the peninsula too – ask your guide about its abandoned harbours and hush-hush WW2 sites.

Day Four – Over the sea to Orkney

Catch the morning ferry over to St Margaret’s Hope as the group begins its exploration of this unique place. Orkney consists of around 70 islands in an archipelago whose central core is linked by the unique Churchill Barriers. These causeways were hastily built in 1940 not so much to join islands together but as impassable naval defences, after the night in October 1939 when German U-boat U-47 navigated through tiny island channels into the vast Royal Navy anchorage at Scapa Flow to wreak deadly havoc. Ask your guide too about the incredible events involving the German war fleet at Scapa Flow in 1919.

On the island of Lamb Holm, meanwhile, the Italian Chapel is a poignant leftover from WW2 when thousands of Italian POWs were held on Orkney. Wishing for their own place of worship, they threw together this wonderful structure from corrugated Nissen huts and cast-off timbers, before decorating its interior with lasting panache.

A short road transfer will bring you to Kirkwall in the afternoon. You’ll have time to explore this attractive harbour town in your own time. St Magnus Cathedral provides a breath-taking landmark – a soaring red sandstone edifice founded by Vikings as Britain’s most northerly cathedral.

Alternatively, you could choose to visit the renowned Highland Park Distillery, next door to your accommodation. Orkney’s most famous whisky maker has plied its spiritual trade for over 220 years in historic buildings on a rise above Kirkwall. Its 18-year-old is a former winner of the ‘Best Spirit in the World’ accolade, uniting distilling skill with Orcadian heather peat, pristine spring water and cool sea salt air. Do advise if you wish to visit Highland Park at the time of reserving your place on the tour so that we can secure this well in advance for you. Please be advised that the distillery tour is not included in the price of this holiday. 

Dinner this evening is at leisure – you could choose to stay in the hotel or try one of Kirkwall’s local restaurants. Your tour leader will assist with options and recommendations.

Your accommodation on Orkney

Located in Kirkwall, Orkney’s largest town, your hotel is a traditional building that inside offers stylish, comfortable rooms to provide a tranquil, welcoming haven. It boasts a highly regarded restaurant, where you can indulge in the freshest of local seafood and an abundance of fabulous ingredients from around the area.

Located on the outskirts of Kirkwall, the hotel is traditionally furnished creating a genuine feel throughout. All rooms are individually styled to great effect. With an excellent reputation as a destination for locals, the restaurant features menus packed with local produce. The hotel has ample lounge areas and a whisky snug, where you will be tempted to try a dram or two from a very large range.

Day Five – A Day of Orcadian wonders

Tuck into a hearty island breakfast before embarking on a full-day tour across Orkney’s patchwork of lush fields, peaty hillocks and stirring ocean views, with a locally born-and-bred guide filling in the backstories of splendid sights along the way.

You will stop at the visitor centre for Maeshowe, one of Europe’s finest chambered tombs. Dating back a staggering 5000 years, it shows the ancient understanding of the heavens with an entrance aligned so the setting midwinter sun illuminates its eerie depths. The cairn contains Viking runes carved inside by 12th century Norse visitors on their own tour of these parts – who says graffiti was a modern invention?

For an unforgettable glimpse of ancient domesticity, you’ll visit Europe’s most complete Neolithic village at Skara Brae – a cluster of houses older than the Pyramids, which lay preserved beneath sand until a wild storm in 1850 revealed it once more. There’s a real and humbling sense of the ordinary folk who lived here five millennia before, with moving echoes of the design of homes today.

Prehistoric encounters continue with the chance to walk amid Orkney’s incredible stone circles – the staggering red-tinged monoliths of the Ring of Brodgar and the quartet of coastal stones at Stenness which claim to be the oldest henge in the British Isles.

Return at the end of the day to Kirkwall for dinner at leisure.

Day Six – South on the North Line

Travel to Stromness and catch a different ferry back to the mainland. You’ll cruise past the sentinel sea stack of the Old Man of Hoy, the group’s final Orcadian sight. Board the train at Thurso and travel South on the Far North Line, meandering through the vast expanse of Sutherland’s Flow Country towards the big-ticket sight for the day. Dunrobin Castle and Gardens, this most northerly of Scotland’s great houses, boasts nearly 200 historic rooms in a building styled like an ornate French chateau transported to a forest-ringed North Highlands bay. The idyllic spot, well-tended formal gardens and standout architecture contrast sharply with turbulent tales of the Highland Clearances of the 18 th  and 19 th  centuries overseen from this place of power.

Wend your way further southwards towards the wonderful town of Dornoch. Here your tour leader will bring to life centuries of history on a guided walk. Be prepared for yarns of witches and religion, through to more modern tales of celebrity weddings at nearby Skibo Castle.

In the evening you’ll enjoy a farewell dinner with your tour companions, an opportunity to cement future friendships.

Your accommodation in Dornoch

Steeped in Scottish history and fascinating legends, this 15th-century Castle is well-established as a comfortable base in this attractive historic town. It firmly stands its ground opposite the inspiring 12th-century Cathedral. Rooms are mainly in the tasteful modern extension, which enjoys views to the garden.

Day Seven – Return to Inverness and farewells 

After a leisurely breakfast, you’ll return to Inverness by coach. The journey of just over an hour gives you a relaxing chance to reflect on the highlights of your unforgettable northern odyssey.

After fond farewells in Inverness, begin your homeward journey or perhaps we can help to extend your Scottish adventure? You may even choose to stay on longer in Dornoch – just let us know your thoughts at the time of enquiry.

The tour begins in Inverness then onward to Scotland’s North Coast by train on the Far North Line, before hopping over to Orkney for two nights, finishing with one night in Dornoch before a final coach journey returns you to Inverness.

From £2345 per person in May to September. Single supplement is £600.

The price per person includes:

• Six nights in hand-picked three and four star-standard accommodation.
• Breakfast throughout.
• Dinner on four evenings.
• Rail travel from Inverness to Thurso & from Thurso to Dunrobin.
• Entry to Castle of Mey.
• Day tour around the North East including tour and tasting at Dunnet Bay Distillery.
• Ferry from Gills Bay to St Margaret’s Hope.
• Sightseeing tour from St Margaret’s Hope to Kirkwall including admission to the Italian Chapel.
• Full-day tour of Orkney with an expert local guide, including admission to all sites visited.
• Ferry from Stromness to Scrabster.
• Entry to Dunrobin Castle.
• Walking tour of Dornoch.
• The services of McKinlay Kidd’s tour leader, accompanying the group and providing guiding and assistance throughout.
• Transfers as described.

From time to time we may need to make minor changes to the itinerary, such as the specific places visited, but will always replace with alternatives of equivalent or higher standard.

Not included:

• Dinner on two nights and lunch throughout
• Visit to the Highland Park Distillery (optional visit – please advise at time of enquiry to secure your booking as availability is limited)
• Gratuities and tips

All accommodation is carefully-selected and researched by us, predominantly featuring small, family-owned hotels – contact us for more detailed information. We will do our best to accommodate room preferences subject to availability at individual properties.

This tour will operate with a maximum of 15 passengers on each departure date. 

Simply complete the form below to reserve your place(s). We guarantee to hold your place(s) for 48 hours to provide time for you to pay the deposit of 25% per person.

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All our holiday prices include a service charge of £9 per person per night towards the costs we incur in researching, planning and designing your holiday.

We guarantee to refund this service charge if you believe that arranging your holiday through McKinlay Kidd has not met your expectations for value. All we ask is that you write to us within 7 days of your return and explain your reason for claiming the refund. This will ensure that we can improve the experience for all our future guests.

Tips for UK & Ireland Rail Touring

Leaving the car behind is an increasingly popular way to travel around Great Britain and Ireland. It’s a responsible, lower carbon way to go and thu...

The guides were fun, flexible and knowledgeable…the group size was just right. I appreciated the free time we had to explore on our own.

The whole holiday was organised flawlessly. We saw a variety of places and things without feeling hurried.

We had a brilliant holiday in all aspects. The travel and accommodation arrangements were all excellent, as I had come to expect from McKinlay Kidd!

Reserve your place(s) for North Highlands & Orkney Guided Rail Tour

To reserve your place(s) on this tour, please call us or complete the form below, making sure to select your departure date from the dropdown menu and advise of any special requirements. We will hold your place(s) for 48 hours and contact you with details of how to confirm your booking by payment of the per person deposit.

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A car-free trip in the Scottish Highlands: I’d have missed so much if I’d driven

A popular circuit round Scotland’s wild north coast draws thousands of drivers – but there’s so much more to experience by public transport and on foot

T here’s a party atmosphere round the lighthouse on Chanonry Point near Inverness, the UK’s best place to see dolphins from land. It’s an hour after low tide and there are pipers, picnics and kids running barefoot over long, evening sands. Already in late spring, the sun barely seems to set in the Highlands. The kelp-strewn pebbles are glowing as I walk from the bus stop near Fortrose cathedral ( bus 26/26A from Inverness) along one side of the promontory. The dolphins don’t show up. But, somehow, it’s fine – the first of many reasons to return. It’s still light as I walk back along the beach for a 9pm bus, past wild lupins and views of Fort George and pink clouds over the Moray Firth. I’m in Inverness at the start of a week exploring Scotland’s wild north coast by train and bus.

The North Coast 500 is a victim of its own success. Devised in 2015, in the style of America’s Route 66, this 516-mile circular road trip round northern Scotland draws thousands of drivers and motor homers every year to narrow roads with bottleneck passing places. Locals complain that the route’s popularity has driven up house prices and talk in terms of pre- and post-NC500. A few cyclists cover all or part of the route by bike. I’m exploring some of it by public transport and on foot. It takes a bit of planning. I’m used to the mild frustration of missing an hourly bus; missing a weekly one is another matter. But first, there’s an epic railway journey to enjoy.

The Far North Line winds past coast and woodland, moor and mountain on its four-hour journey from Inverness up to Thurso (advance tickets £16 each way, scotrail.co.uk ). One end of Cromarty Firth, one of three huge estuaries, is all reedbeds, waterbirds and hares in the long grass. The far end is studded with disused oil rigs, towed here when they’re not needed in the North Sea. Across the wide blue of Dornoch Firth, I can just make out Skibo Castle , a huge baronial mansion that was the Scottish home of steel tycoon Andrew Carnegie. Later, there’s a half-timbered station house and a glimpse of turrets above the trees as we pass Dunrobin Castle . The railway runs beside the sea between Brora and Helmsdale, past miles of deserted sand and rocks bristling with cormorants.

In the middle of blanket-bogged Flow Country , we stop at Forsinard, where the old station house is an RSPB visitor centre and a surfaced trail leads through bird-rich lochans. Some kids on the path wave cheerfully at the train and a deer runs past the window. Broch, broch, hut circle, cairn insists the map in gothic lettering. I can usually see only the more recently ruined circular sheepfolds, but it’s clear this is a huge and ancient landscape. There are intricately carved Pictish stones and Viking shield bosses at the North Coast visitor centre in Thurso.

After half an hour’s onward journey, through cotton-grassed moorland dotted with glittering lochs, I arrive on bus 803 in Melvich. I walk through dunes to the beach, where oystercatchers are flying over peat-tinged waves. In neighbouring Portskerra, there are purple orchids, columbines and carpets of squill with starry sky-blue flowers beside a clifftop path and the clear, sheltered waters of the harbour are perfect for a bracing high-tide dip. Warming up in the Coastline Coffee Shop , I tell a fellow swimmer I’m worried about missing the twice-daily weekday bus along the coast tomorrow and she laughs and says someone would probably give me a lift.

Very early next morning, I do catch bus 274 to Bettyhill , where the Strathnaver Museum reopened in April 2023 after a big refurbishment. In an old church near the white sand beaches of Farr Bay, the museum houses all kinds of curios from a bronze age beaker to a dog-skin buoy. There’s plenty of info about Clan Mackay and the Highland clearances that still feel freshly tragic to some people living locally. “I hate sheep,” says one woman, whose grandfather was forced to move. Later, rambling along quiet lanes near Tongue, I pass a roadside memorial to the local Gaelic poet Ewen Robertson. He wrote poignantly about the clearances, which evicted crofting communities from the land they had farmed. Some of Robertson’s best-known lines curse the sheep and the perfidious duke for making Sutherland a desert.

From Tongue, it’s a four-mile walk to Kinloch Lodge , where a group of us are meeting for a hike, through blue milkwort flowers and aromatic bog myrtle, to remote Loch an Dithreibh. It’s organised by the team from Feragaia , a distinctive alcohol-free Scottish spirit, distilled in Fife from a bunch of plants like west coast sugar kelp, lemon verbena, and blackcurrant leaves from a farm in Perthshire. The hike is led by a ranger from Wildland , a long-term conservation project that featured in David Attenborough’s Wild Isles. Their work includes re-establishing woods and restoring wetlands.

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Kinloch Lodge, where we’re staying, is one of Wildland’s portfolio of posh properties. Outside, the many peaks of Ben Loyal are crowned with cloud or lit by a coppery sunset. Other places to stay locally include the Tongue hotel , a Victorian lodge with wood panels, open fires and mountain views, recently revamped by the Highland Coast Hotels group (doubles from £158 B&B). There’s a hostel too, right on the coast near the wide Kyle of Tongue (doubles from £70, room-only).

Next day, I follow a signed path over the rust-red Rhian Burn, through streamside bluebells and bright yellow broom flowers, up to Castle Varrich . The steel viewing platform, added by Wildland in 2017, looks out over mountains and sea loch. Back down in the village, there are gnarled beech trees, duck eggs for sale, a lone fisher on the crumbling pier, and Tongue House, another former seat of Clan Mackay. The Norse Bakehouse serves up home-cooked Italian food, and the blue-and-gold view from the garden is one of many postcard-ready seascapes.

I’m leaving tomorrow via Inverness, where the Caledonian Sleeper , taken over last year by the Scottish government, sets off six nights a week (seats from £55 Inverness to Crewe and London Euston). Walking to the bus stop in Tongue next morning, past heather-sunk rocks with strange markings, the sunshine is bright enough to keep the midges at bay. There are so many things I might have missed if I drove along this road instead of walking: a marbled white butterfly on the coconut-smelling gorse, wood sorrel under lime-green birches, the sound of mountain streams, and the cuckoo calling hoarsely over the valley.

This trip was supported by Feragaia and Visit Scotland

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Good Housekeeping UK

Scotland's 10 most scenic railways will make you want to book a staycation

Posted: 2 January 2024 | Last updated: 2 January 2024

Scotland : a country of glens, fells, lakes and islands beyond your wildest dreams. It's where white-sand beaches and snowy peaks sit side by side, and tiny coastal towns and world-class cultural cities sit just a few hours from each other - the ideal backdrop for the most scenic railways in Scotland.

The landscapes of Scotland are rugged and magical and the best way to take them in is with an unforgettable train holiday . During a Scottish rail adventure, you can see multiple destinations and enjoy the changing landscapes as you travel, worrying less about your carbon footprint, keeping comfortable and relaxed, and without the need to lift a finger!

Scotland is home to some of the UK’s most spectacular rail routes too, whether you want to explore the coasts or the Highlands, by steam train or narrow gauge railway, travelling overnight or on a day trip with the kids.

So read on to get to know the most scenic railways of Scotland and start planning your trip for 2024...

1) West Highland Line

Known for the resident mythical monster ‘Nessie’, the dramatic, remote John o' Groats and whisky distilleries dotted between mountains and lochs, the Scottish Highlands are a wild and wondrous region.

The West Highlands have their own unique feel, famed for their fresh seafood, Highland hospitality and beloved Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK.

Fittingly, the West Highland Line is considered by many to be the most scenic rail journey in the world.

Heading north through the wilds of the west coast, you can see parts of the country only visible by train as you pass through Loch Lomond and the stunning Trossachs National Park.

The line then splits at Crianlarich, and you can either travel past Loch Awe to Oban, or high up to Rannoch Moor, through remote wilderness, and on to Fort William and Mallaig.

Travel with Good Housekeeping on the West Highland Line during a four-day Scotland by steam holiday. You'll get to experience the Jacobite, from the Harry Potter films, as you make your way across the breathtaking Glenfinnan Viaduct.

FIND OUT MORE

Alternatively, travel part of the Line during an exclusive cruise with TV presenter Kirsty Wark as you explore the lochs of Scotland on a boutique ship and sail the Caledonian Canal.

2) Fort William to Mallaig on the Jacobite steam train

An off-shoot of the West Highland Line, this section is world-famous for the stunning Glenfinnan Viaduct, which the Hogwarts Express soars over in the Harry Potter films.

Undoubtedly the best way to travel this route is, like Harry, by classic steam train.

The iconic Jacobite, or the Harry Potter train , as it's known to many, offers the perfect way to travel through the Highland scenery, occasionally pausing on the 21-arched viaduct, allowing you time to take in breathtaking views of the mountainous, mossy terrain and glistening Loch Shiel in the distance.

Good Housekeeping has an excellent four-day staycation, where you'll not only experience this epic train journey, but enjoy a cruise on Loch Katrine in the Trossachs and have time to discover the pretty town of Mallaig, where you can stop for fish and chips.

3) Royal Scotsman

Operated by Belmond, purveyors of sumptuous train experiences, the Royal Scotsman transports you into the Scottish wilderness in style, to see iconic landmarks including Loch Lomond, Ben Nevis, the Isle of Bute and Mount Stuart.

But this is a train like no other. Edwardian elegance meets country-house comforts in the Royal Scotsman’s 10 carriages. On top of the en suite double cabins, this palace on wheels also features a dining room, observation car and the Dior Spa, a new tranquil way to experience the train.

Fine wines, malt whiskies, entertainment and a first-class menu celebrating Scottish produce, is all yours, as you snake through sky-high peaks and dramatic valleys.

The Royal Scotsman has various journeys throughout 2023, including a whisky-themed journey, the castles and isles and a taste of the Highlands tour.

4) Strathspey Railway

Home to the Cairngorm quartz, these mystical mountains are often snow-topped and Tundra-like, popular with climbers, walkers and even skiers.

We find that the best way to admire the majestic peaks is from the comfort of a plush carriage on a journey along the Strathspey Steam Railway.

Lasting just an hour and a half, the line connects snowsports base Aviemore with Broomhill, along the River Spey and western edge of the National Park. Many travellers hop off at the RSPB reserve in Boat of Garten - also known as 'Osprey village'.

It makes for a perfect day out, with afternoon tea and Sunday lunch both served on board the train, and the flexibility to take the dogs with you - provided they are well-behaved.

BROWSE HOTELS IN AVIEMORE

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Harry Potter Jacobite steam train breaks down on first day back in service

The breakdown on Monday, on the route made famous in the Harry Potter And The Chamber Of Secrets film, affected the rail network, with ScotRail unable to run trains between Fort William and Mallaig.

Scotland reporter @Jenster13

Tuesday 16 April 2024 16:16, UK

A steam train made famous by the Harry Potter films has broken down on its first day back in service.

The Jacobite train service through the Highlands was brought to a halt just outside of Glenfinnan on Monday due to poor weather conditions.

Operator West Coast Railways (WCR) said the team on board "did their best" to restart the service, but the train had to be rescued by another diesel engine.

The breakdown affected the rail network, with ScotRail unable to run trains between Fort William and Mallaig.

Services resumed later following the recovery of the Jacobite.

WCR apologised to the customers affected and said compensation would be offered.

Services are running as scheduled on Tuesday.

Train operating after earlier suspension

The Jacobite had only just kickstarted its 2024 season after being suspended pending a safety ruling last month.

WCR is currently awaiting a ruling from the Office of Rail and Road (ORR) on whether it can continue to run with hinged-door carriages.

The service had operated for more than 30 years under an exemption but in 2023, following an accident, rail authorities issued further safety advice to operators of carriages which are not centrally controlled or locked by train crew.

WCR has applied to renew the exemption, and made a request for temporary permission to operate its full heritage carriages while the ORR decided whether the Jacobite is safe.

Keep up with all the latest news from the UK and around the world by following Sky News

Train now 'slightly shorter' and 'reduced capacity'

While it awaits a decision, a fleet of carriages which complies with the safety rules will be used to allow the service to continue .

However, the train will be "slightly shorter" and will run at a "reduced capacity", which could affect passengers who previously booked tickets on the famous service.

WCR previously said customers affected by the change will be contacted with available options, including the opportunity to re-book their trip.

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ORR had 'justifiable' approach

WCR lost a High Court challenge against the ORR over the safety of doors on its carriages in December.

The company had complained that the multimillion-pound cost of having to retrofit central locking could "destroy" its business and argued its door systems were just as safe.

However, a judge dismissed the operator's case and concluded the ORR had taken a "justifiable" approach.

The service takes tourists from Fort William to Mallaig, including over the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct.

The Jacobite train featured in the 2002 film Harry Potter And The Chamber Of Secrets as the Hogwarts Express.

The film was the second in the movie franchise inspired by JK Rowling's books about a young wizard and his years at a magical school in Scotland.

Related Topics

• harry potter