• Black Forest Germany

Winter in the Black Forest

Winter In The Black Forest

Most people's mental image of the Black Forest is walking in the summer through wooded hills and gorges to villages with timbered houses clustered around their historic centre.

Yet for many active locals in the the home province of Baden-Württemberg, winter is equally attractive, whether it is for snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, ski touring or even trying out some of the local ski resorts.

Of course, some visitors prefer to look for a cuckoo clock to take back home or to try the mulled wine at a Christmas market but it would be a shame not to take advantage of some of the activities in the winter wonderland of Germany's Black Forest.

Skiing in the Black Forest

Skiing on the Feldberg in the Black Forest

Yes, the Black Forest is not in the Alps - they are further south and over the border in Switzerland.

But it does offer quite a number of smaller ski resorts which are popular for day trips and family outings. Especially because those ski resorts, lower in altitude though they may be, are much cheaper than those in the Alps.

The largest of these is the Feldberg ski area, which is located just off the route between Donaueschingen and Freiburg in the southern part of the Black Forest.

The 14 ski lifts are located on a mountain pass on the B317 road in the direction of Todtnau southwest of Titisee . The top elevation is at 1450m on the Seebuck. Buses run to the ski area from Titisee and from Freiburg railway station.

There are actually another seven different ski areas in the Feldberg vicinity. The next largest are those at nearby Todtnauberg, with another seven draglifts, or the ski area between Münstertal and Wieden, a little closer to Freiburg and the Rhine valley and with a total of six lifts.

Up in the northern part of the Black Forest there are quite a few individual lifts, frequently run by volunteers and sometimes only open on the weekends. There are a cluster of areas around the Schwarzwaldhochstrasse route, with the largest being the Mehliskopf area and its five lifts.

Feldberg : www.liftverbund-feldberg.de Todtnauberg : www.skilifte-todtnauberg.de Münstertal-Wieden : www.skilifte-muenstertal-wieden.de Mehliskopf : www.mehliskopf.de

Crosscountry Skiing in the Black Forest

Cross-country skiing in the Black Forest

In the northern part of the Black Forest, the cross-country tracks tend to link the smaller ski areas with one another roughly along the route of the Schwarzwaldhochstraße (the 'Black Forest High Road') linking Baden Baden to Freudenstadt.

The higher southern section has quite a wide range of options for cross country skiers, with around 700 kilometres of prepared trails in the Hochschwarzwald region.

There is even a 100-kilometre long-distance cross-country route between Schonach and Belten which is split into 13 different stages with waymarking and orientation maps at entry points to the trails.

Trail Network in the Northern Black Forest : www.loipenportal.de/nordschwarzwald (German only) Trail Network in the Southern Black Forest : www.loipenportal.de/nordschwarzwald (German only) Long Distance Trail : www.fernskiwanderweg.de (German only)

Winter Hiking in the Black Forest

Winter walking in the Black Forest

The Black Forest is a perfect starting point for those who haven't tried winter walking or snowshoe touring before. There are plenty of relatively easy cleared hiking trails through the forests or panoramic routes up to one of the peaks.

And, compared to the more dramatic alpine environment, the options are far more accessible to those who have never tried heading out for a winter hike in the snow beforehand.

More information : www.touren-schwarzwald.info (partial English translation available)

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Visiting The Black Forest In Winter?

Many people ask me if it is a good idea to visit the Black Forest in winter. Will there be snow? Will it be cold? Is there anything to do during winter? Is it safe driving in winter? The answer if you should or should not visit in winter is easy: it all depends. Official Black Forest Winter Tour Page

Within minutes you can walk in the snow, go on a snowshoeing tour, rent skies or sit in one of the hot thermal baths surrounded by snow. If you are used to drive in winter conditions you should not have a problem driving here. It is often a good idea to carry along some snow chains if you are driving in the mountains. Alternatively you can also take the train to get up into the mountains. This is the easiest and most often fastest way to get to the top of the Black Forest and its ski areas.

Do you want to visit some of the local attractions? You need to be aware that many attractions are closed in winter. For example there are several museums which are closed between November and March. Many cafes are closed on certain days as well. People here often use the winter times to do some remodeling, go on a vacation themselves, or get ready for spring, which usually starts around Easter. If you want to make sure all attractions are open during your visit I recommend visiting during spring, summer or fall, roughly from April to October.

Many visitors don’t realize that it gets dark very early in winter – often by 4 PM. That means you only have a certain amount of hours you can tour during winter. Getting on the road by 10 AM and returning to your hotel by 4 PM is probably a good plan.

Personally, winter is one of my favorite times in the Black Forest. Especially when we have sunny days, blue skies and lots of snow. There is plenty to do if you dress warm – go for a hike in the snow (or rather – a walk!), rent some snowshoes or skies, visit a Christmas Market and have a hot mulled wine to warm up (only in December). And at the end of a winter day head to one of the local restaurants and have a hearty plate of German comfort-food.

If you are still not certain if visiting the Black Forest in winter is a good idea send me an email! I am happy to make a recommendation. And if I don’t see you in winter I sure hope to see you in spring, summer or fall!

Warm Greetings from the Black Forest,

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The Ultimate Black Forest Travel Guide: What to Know Before You Visit

Situated in Germany’s southwest corner, the Black Forest, or Schwarzwald in German, is known around the world for its dark conifer forests, enchanting villages, hiking trails, and thermal spas. Steeped in mystery and myth, the Black Forest is a place in Baden-Württemberg that so many Germans choose when they vacation in their own country. I have been to Schwarzwald a number of times, so I can attest to that. There are countless things to do in the Black forest! I’ve put together Black Forest travel guide featuring everything you need to plan a trip to Schwarzwald, from help creating your own Black Forest itinerary to detailed descriptions of the region’s sights and cultural attractions.

The state of Baden-Württemberg is a perfect travel destination that has something for everyone. A lot of tourists and locals alike flock to the Black Forest to visit Schloss Hohenbaden , hike to the Triberg Waterfalls , and marvel at half-timbered houses in Schiltach . In addition, Schwarzwald is a great place to breathe fresh air, which also provides great opportunities for outdoor exploration. If you want to experience the real Black Forest and live like a local, make sure to get off the beaten track.

The best part of visiting Schwarzwald is that you can’t go wrong with any itinerary because the Black Forest is an expansive area rich in tradition. Visiting the Black Forest is an essential part of any Southern Germany road trip, and definitely one of the best things to do in Baden-Württemberg. In this travel guide, you’ll also find my recommendations and tips for planning the Black Forest itinerary, as well as a starting point for planning your trip to Schwarzwald. Let’s dive right in!

The Ultimate Black Forest Travel Guide What to Know Before You Visit

Where is the Black Forest in Germany?

The Black Forest region in Baden-Württemberg is home to the cuckoo clock, the Grimm Brothers’ fairy tales, and the highest non-Alpine Mountains in Germany . Stretching for about 100 miles along the French border from Switzerland to Baden-Baden, the Black Forest is the heart of the country’s timber and the woodworking industry. There are 11 moderate trails in Black Forest National Park ranging from 3.9 to 20.8 miles and about 250 different communities within the regional area.

Why is it Called the Black Forest?

Locally known as the Schwarzwald, the region still conjures up images of wizards, gnomes and witches, something akin to an enchanted forest in a fairy-tale. While the Black Forest is still an area abounding with myths, legends say that the slightly sinister canopy of evergreen trees here was thick and dense that sunlight struggled to reach the forest floor. Hence locals called the forest black.

A Brief History of the Black Forest Region

When the Romans arrived in the region nearly two millenniums ago, the forest was intermingled with both deciduous trees and pines. As people required more and more resources, the density that created the darkness would grow increasingly thinner. The increased use of timber turned the forest wood into an economic resource, sometimes sold, and sometimes used in mining, charcoal, and glass-making industries in other countries.

For example, timber from the Black Forest was used to build foundations for homes on the soft, sandy ground in the Netherlands . In the mid 18th and early 19th centuries, many farmers used the wood to make intricate cuckoo clocks to supplement their income during the winter months. To this day, local cuckoo clockmakers preserve the rich cultural and historical heritage.

how to travel to black forest germany

Today the Black Forest is one of the best-managed forests in Germany. Sometimes visitors don’t even realize this when they see the rolling green hills and thick woodlands. But as they venture deeper into the national park, they can see the sections where foresting is allowed, and sections where new planting is being done. In some areas, you can still see the plant seedlings in straight rows.

Another thing the Black Forest is known for is thermal spas. Romans were the first who introduced the bathing culture with Europeans who rediscovered the healing springs at the beginning of the 19th century. The natural hot springs in the northwestern corner of the Black Forest including the spa town of Baden-Baden, attract spa enthusiasts from all over the world.

How to get to the Black Forest

Flying to the black forest region.

If you’re coming from the United States or Canada, Frankfurt is the primary airport for this area. There are trains running between Freiburg (Breisgau) Hbf and Frankfurt (Main), as well as trains that connect Karlsruhe, Baden-Baden, and Offenburg to the major cities in Germany by rail.

Alternatively, if you’re already in Europe and coming from within the European Union, consider flying to Basel-Mulhouse airport. The airport sits on the borders of France , Switzerland, and Germany and is much closer to Freiburg im Breisgau. There is a frequent bus connection between Basel Airport and Freiburg.

Visiting the Black Forest by public transport requires a bit of planning. Thus if you’re flying into major cities, you may want to use regional trains to get to the smaller towns on your Black Forest itinerary. If you are opting to take a scenic train ride through the Black Forest, then investing in a Konus card may be a wise decision. This guest card is valid in the registered period of your stay on all local buses and trains. As well as on the trams and buses in Freiburg and Karlsruhe.

Driving in the Black Forest

Of course, the most convenient way to explore the Black Forest is by car. There are plenty of rental companies doing business in Germany, so you can easily pick up your own vehicle at the airport upon arrival. When traveling from Frankfurt, you may want to take Autobahn A5, which runs through Offenburg along the western edge of the Black Forest.

things to do in black forest germany

Alternatively, you can take Autobahn A81, which runs through the valley on the eastern side of the region. Both routes can be the starting points for driving to any town in the region and great options if you’re planning a self-drive tour of the Black Forest.

When is the Best Time to Visit Black Forest

Schwarzwald is a year-round jaw-dropping destination that inspires the soul with its beautiful landscape and natural scenery. Depending on your interest, the region offers excellent potential for cross-country-skiing, hiking, and biking.

If trekking is your thing, then summer is the ideal time to visit . Spring comes later to higher elevations. In early March hilltops in the Black Forest are usually covered with snow. If you want to see nature in full swing, consider going in late April or early May.

At the other end, fall is a great time for mountain biking and nordic walking. While you can get a glimpse of vibrant fall foliage in the Black Forest, Schwarzwald also has many fir and spruce trees that do not change color. If you visit in autumn, there is an amazing number of cultural festivals and other traditional festivities in fall.

In winter Schwarzwald sees a lot of snow. If you’re looking for things to do in the Black Forest in winter, the national park offers cross-country and downhill skiing. You can attend a major sporting competition (ski jumping). Or you can see a dog sled race or go snowshoeing or snowboarding. Plus, nothing beats Christmas markets in enchanting chocolate-box towns.

Where To Stay In The Black Forest, Germany

Baden-Baden: Schwarzwaldhotel Sonne Karlsruhe: Hotel Zum Ochsen Durlach Europa-Park: Hotel Bell Rock Freiburg: Hotel Schwarzwälder Hof Bad Teinach-Zavelstein: Hotel Berlins KroneLamm Triberg: Hotel Central Garni Feldberg: Hotel Schlehdorn Gengenbach: Die Reichsstadt Heidelberg: Hotel Zum Ritter St. Georg Gernsbach: Schloss Eberstein Endingen: Zollhaus Lahr: Hotel Restaurant Adler Vogtsburg: Schwarzer Adler Estate Hotel

How to Explore the Black Forest

After my last three trips to the Black Forest, I figured out that the best way to explore is to set up a home base and explore from there. On my recent trip, I stayed in Kirchzarten, which is only a 10-minute drive from Freiburg. The town a number of reasonably-priced hotels as well as vacation rentals. However, if you’re interested in a more rustic experience, the concept of farm stays is quite popular here.

If you don’t have a plan or a travel itinerary, basing yourself in one location will allow you to thoroughly explore the surrounding areas. Such a strategy can go a long way because there are a lot of things to do in the Black Forest. So if you’re short on time, you will still end up somewhere that matters.

I crisscrossed Schwarzwald on my recent trips and there are still places I haven’t seen. To create a perfect Black Forest itinerary you’ll need first to narrow down the list of places you want to visit. If you have more than a weekend, set aside some time for particular points of interest you’ll encounter along the way. But if you have set a specific time to leave the area try to plan more specifically for your days. Keep in mind that wherever you go, you will likely come across a lot of charming places that deserve a stop.

Take A Hike

Obviously, you can’t visit the Black Forest without hiking its numerous trails. The larger cities including Baden-Baden, Freiburg, and Offenburg all have local tourist offices where you can get maps and additional information about shorter routes. Longer routes like Westweg (in the western Black Forest), Ostweg (in the eastern Black Forest), or the Mittelweg (in the central Black Forest) are usually listed on most websites so you can easily plan your Black Forest itinerary.

To plan the itinerary you need first select the area you wish to explore, then choose the route. If you’re using a website planner, it will show all of the trails in that area. Some can show a particular attraction or lodging, as well as trails that lead to that location.

travel guide black forest germany

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Most routes in the Black Forest are easy enough to follow and uniformly marked with different color-coded markers. However, it’s not uncommon for one route to follow several different colored route markers. Keep in mind, there are yellow local trails (gelbe Raute), blue: regional trails (blaue Raute), and red: main trails (rote Raute). The famous trails run north-south and east-west), e.g Freiburg-Bodensee (Westweg); Kaiserstuhl–Rhine Black Forest Trail.

Multi-day hiking trails are an important part of local culture. Inns and stops are plentiful along the way. It is entirely possible to explore the Black Forest by hiking, without sleeping in a tent.

In addition, there are several theme trails. You can choose one to learn about a particular aspect of the region. Some are pilgrimages, others focus on farm life, others highlight various cultural sights and famous attractions. There is even a schnapps trail, which will guide you through the forest, passing by schnapps and wine fountains.

Here are the Most Beautiful Tourist Routes in the Black Forest:

The Schwarzwaldhocstrasse , or the Black Forest High Road, is the oldest tourist route in the Black Forest. It covers high areas in the northern Black Forest, focusing on scenery and panoramic views.

The Schwarzwald Panoramastraße , or Black Forest Scenic Road, offers a very similar experience in the southern parts of the forest. The mountains are higher in the south, so the views may be more spectacular.

The Badische Weinstrasse , or Baden Wine Route, travels through the winemaking region on the west side of the forest. The route includes numerous wineries and renowned restaurants.

The Schwarzwald-Bäderstraße , or Black Forest Spa Route, travels through some of the top spa towns in a region that is known for its phenomenal spa experiences.

The Klosterroute Nordschwarzwald , or Northern Black Forest Monastery Road, visits four spectacular historic monasteries, including the UNESCO World Heritage Maulbronn Monastery.

Other routes exclusive to the Black Forest include the Schwarzwald-Tälerstraße , and the Baden Spargelstraße, or Asparagus Route.

black forest germany best places to stay

Tour routes running through the Black Forest, but not exclusive to it are:

The German Framework Route , red line, featuring stunning half-timbered architecture across the region.

The Hohenzollern Road , which follows the path of the Prussian royalty throughout Baden-Württemberg.

Römerstraße Neckar-Alb-Aare , or Roman Road Neckar-Alb-Aare, traces Roman ruins throughout the area, with excavations and open air museums.

Things to Do in the Black Forest

Visit a castle.

While Schwarzwald is not particularly known for its castles or palaces, the region boasts some outstanding examples, ranging from functioning sites open for tours to mere ruins. Schloß Eberstein near Gernsbach, Karlsruhe Palace , Castle Hohengeroldseck just to name a few.

If you’re looking for the best castles in the Black Forest consider visiting Burg Hohenzollern. Situated in the eastern part of the national park, the Gothic Revival Burg Hohenzollern feels like something out of a fantasy novel. Once the seat of the Prussian kings and Kaisers, the castle offers daily tours in German (or another language) for an added fee.

My American readers may be interested to find within the castle museum a letter penned by George Washington to a Hohenzollern descendant thanking him for his service in the American Revolutionary War.

Go To a Spa

Friedrichsbad and Caracalla in Baden-Baden, mineral thermal bath in Bad Teinach, Paracelsus-Thermae in Bad Liebenzell, and Palais Thermal in Bad Wildbad are among the best spas in the Black Forest region.

Since the Roman era, Schwarzwald has been known for its health retreats and spas. At first, Roman soldiers were sent to recuperate and “take the waters” here. Centuries later the Black Forest was frequented by royalty, the European nobility, and the world’s elite. It was the place to see and be seen both in the summer and in the winter and that feel has permeated the region as it is today.

With more than 400 ranking criteria to determine the overall quality of a spa, there are 17 different sites in the Black Forest to visit. With this in mind, pick a town with a name starting with the word “Bad” (bath) to get a quality spa experience.

Hike To Triberg Waterfall

Located in the town of Triberg, the Triberg Fall is one of the most scenic natural wonders in Schwarzwald. The trail begins right in town. It is well marked and you will need to pay a small entry fee to access the trail. You’ll climb from the foot to the top of the waterfalls on a winding path along the cascading falls, with lookout points to enjoy the view.

black forest germany best places to visit

After a point, the trail branches off in three directions. The main trail loops back into the town. Don’t miss seeing Maria in der Tanne pilgrimage church along the route. The small baroque church is very unique to the Black Forest with an impressive altar and wonderful carved wood doors.

Enjoy The Rides At Europa Park

Europa Park sits in the town of Rust, some 50 minutes from Offenburg. This is Europe’s second most popular amusement park (after Disneyland Paris). Split into 15 country-themed areas, Europa Park features world-class rides in a setting that recreates highlights from around Europe . You can take a Poseidon Water roller coaster ride, have a lot of fun with Cassandra’s Curse – spinning-room dark ride, and check out Russia’s Mir space station. I particularly like Atlantica Super Splash that creates a refreshing spray and genuinely makes you feel like you left Germany!

Visit The Black Forest Open Air Museum

Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum Vogtsbauernhof sits between Hausach and Gutach and provides valuable insights into German life in the Black Forest. It’s one of my favorite museums in Germany and I’ve visited it four or five times now and enjoyed every visit. I usually visit with a companion, and it never fails to impress. If you’d like a taste of the history of the region, don’t miss out on visiting this place. Family visitors and adults-only groups will both enjoy this fascinating open-air museum that focuses on different aspects of farm life and different generations.

You can easily spend one full day there because the museum features an extensive collection of farmhouses ranging from 16th to the 18th centuries. In order to understand local life better, you can join guided tours both in German and English. From March to November there are activities and workshops like traditional baking and cooking, folklore, and craft demonstrations. This will be a fun-filled learning experience for kids. Check the timings before you go, so that you won’t miss anything.

Go To a Historic Mine

Did you know that there are amazing medieval mines beneath the Black Forest? In Schwarzwald extensive mining activities took place during the Middle Ages but today nearly all of the mines are closed to production. Several former mine sites have re-opened their doors to visitors after refurbishment. So if you’re into the history of mining technology, you can choose any of the 12 mines in the Black Forest that offer tours ranging from 45 minutes to two and a half hours. Museums-Bergwerk Schauinsland, Mine ‘Frischglück’ in Neuenbürg, Mine ‘Finstergrund’ in Wieden, Mine ‘Teufelsgrund’ in Münstertal and some others offer scheduled tours.

Beautiful Places to Visit in the Black Forest

First things first, there are endless beautiful places to visit in the Black Forest. Every village and town here has unique aspects and something special to see. Wherever you go, you will always find something worthwhile along the way. However, when it comes to planning your own Black Forest travel itinerary, there are some extraordinary locations that you may want to visit in the first place.

Freiburg im Breisgau

This university town is one of the largest in the Black Forest that makes a great base to explore the rest of the region. Freiburg im Breisgau has beautiful historic buildings, picturesque narrow streets, interesting history, the famous Freiburg Munster , and lots of places to eat hearty German cuisine. The best part about Freiburg is that you don’t need longer than a day to see it all. Consider taking a free walking tour or a culinary tour to better understand this adorable town.

why is it called the black forest

With a charming medieval old town and dynamic café culture, Freiburg harmoniously combines the old and the new. The Munsterplatz , or cathedral square, is where the lively open-air market takes place on working days, great for people-watching. The atmospheric Freiburg Munster with its frightening and grotesque gargoyles is worth a visit too. The cathedral is home to the 750-year-old Hosanna bell , as well as the 116-m-high tower that offers scenic panoramic views of the town.

Another great thing to check out in Freiburg, especially for kids, is the Bächle ! These little cobbled water-filled gutters run through the city center. In the summer, waterways attract barefoot kids of all ages to play, splash and have a blast.

Set in the pine-forested Nagold valley, Calw has a reputation for being one of the forest’s prettiest towns. As the birthplace of German novelist, and Nobel Prize recipient Herman Hesse, there’s a museum dedicated to his works. Calw is another stop on the Timber Frame Road so you can expect to enjoy the peaceful and tranquil countryside.

Start exploring Calw with the picturesque market square. Surrounded by 18th-century half-timbered houses, Calw’s square offers a quintessential German experience – think cobbled streets, towering Gothic churches, and of course, delicious beer. The city owes its growth to tourism. Many flock here to see the ruins of Hirsau Monastery , stop by the Tannery Museum, the Monastery Hirsau Museum, and the Farmhouse Museum.

Bad Wildbad

Situated in the north of the forest, Bad Wildbad is a lovely riverfront town where you can take a river walk to try the Palais Thermal baths. The thing I love about Bad Wildbad is that the spa town is much cheaper than Baden-Baden. At the same time if offers amazing spa facilities, a wide range of treatments for health, entertaining cultural events, and cross-country trails on the Sommerberg and around. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a ride on the Sommerberg Funicular Railway, then take the Schwarzwald Treetop Walk .

Breisach am Rhein

The tiny town of Breisach sits on the German side of the Upper Rhine River in the immediate vicinity of Alsace. You can reach Breisach by rail from Freiburg in 30 minutes. Alternatively, there are trains to Breisach from Riegel am Kaiserstuhl, north of Freiburg. To the west, there is Colmar in France. Catch a bus at Breisach Bahnhof bus station to enjoy a 30-minute bus ride.

black forest national park

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This charming town was almost totally destroyed in WWII and scrupulously rebuilt in the old style. Breisach is one of the most beautiful places to visit in the Black Forest, and one that deserves to be visited way more often. It is a good idea to start exploring Breisach with St. Stephen’s Cathedral , which towers over the city. Then pay the Blue House a visit – a memorial site dedicated to the history of the Jews of the Upper Rhine. Learn the mysteries of the Radbrunnen Tower (Radbrunnenturm), once a town hall and medieval court torture chamber. If you have time, cross the river into France to see the incredible UNESCO World Heritage Site, the star-shaped Neuf-Brisach Citadel of the Sun King.

Baiersbronn

This idyllic mountain resort consists of nine scenic hamlets that are famous as a center of haute cuisine in Germany. It gained fame in culinary circles for the astounding number of Michelin stars awarded to three local restaurants.

Between meals in Schwarzwaldstube (Hotel Traube Tonbach), Restaurant Bareiss, and Restaurant Schlossberg, there are a number of attractions and things to do to keep you entertained.

The impressive ruins of the All Saints’ Abbey (Kloster Allerheiligen), are made even more haunting by their secluded setting and unfortunate history. Since its founding in 1192, parts of the premises have been destroyed repeatedly by fires — in 1470, in 1555, and finally by lightning in 1804. Southwest of Baiersbronn a scenic path leads to the 40-meter tall Sankenbach Waterfalls (Sankenbach-Wasserfälle). Play around with a long wooden lever, which allows visitors to regulate the volume of the waterfall.

Nestled just about 20 minutes away from Offenburg by train, the town of Gengenbach is filled with narrow cobblestone streets, stone fountains, and half-timbered houses. Every street in this chocolate box town seems postcard-worthy. Many buildings here are decorated with brightly painted shutters, flower boxes, and bronze lanterns.

Gengenbach is part of the German Framework Road and definitely looks like a scene out of a fairy tale. If you’re looking for a fantastic Christmas experience, make sure to head to Gengenbach in December. For twenty-four days before Christmas, the town hall becomes a giant Advent calendar, with each of its 24 large windows opening in turn to reveal an elaborate scene.

black forest germany by train

In fact, Baden-Württemberg was one of the first areas in Europe to host Christmas markets. Gengenbach is a unique place to enjoy a traditional Christkindlesmarkt that isn’t ruined by commercialization or overrun by crowds. Also, don’t miss out on visiting Narrenmuseum Niggelturm, Löwenberg Museum in the former Patrician’s house, and the Rafting and Transport Museum in the former Warden’s House.

There is a number of vineyards surround much of Gengenbach, while hikes in the area range from about 1-13 miles. Shorter walks are available along some of the vineyards close to town. The paths won’t be actually winding through forests, but you’ll have incredible views of the area, as well as the town itself.

The Bottom Line

I hope my Black Forest travel guide has inspired you to visit Schwarzwald one day soon. If you’re still looking for options to add to your itinerary, there are just too many places to include in one post. With so many castles, trails, museums, and postcard-worthy towns, you really can’t go wrong in the Black Forest.

If you’re planning your own fun adventure through a dense and mysterious land, the Schwarzwald Tourism page gives accurate information on literally every town and attraction in the region. Whether you’re obsessed with trip planning or you just want a loose plan, the Black Forest has the rolling hills, thick evergreen forests, and fields dotted with cute guesthouses, farmhouses that won’t disappoint.

Schwarzwald is one of my favorite places in Germany, and I will definitely return. The question is, how many times.

Still have doubts about how to arrange a trip to the Black Forest, what to do, and where to stay? Don’t be shy, leave a question in the comments below. And don’t forget to book your hotels and tour through my links, doing that you help me with running MindTheTravel and writing great travel tips!

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visit black forest in winter

Helen Reynolds

My husband and I lived in Germany many years ago and this took me back. Thank you.

visit black forest in winter

I would love to visit The Black Forest. Your article makes it look like a very interesting place to visit. Thanks for this.

visit black forest in winter

Never knew it was known by Schwarzwald. Seems very exciting! Would love to visit it!

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visit black forest in winter

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Winter in the Black Forest

Glittering mountain peaks, snow-covered forests, and crystal-clear air: skiers, snowboarders, cross-country skiers, and winter hikers have long known that the Black Forest holiday region in southwest Germany becomes a fairy tale dreamland in winter. More than 140 ski lifts, 2,000 kilometres of well-kept cross-country ski trails, and around 250km of downhill slopes guarantee fun in the snow. But what would a winter holiday be without the aroma of mulled wine and regional delicacies? More than 180 Christmas markets invite you to stroll, peruse, and enjoy.

The smell of roasted almonds, the flavour of hot mulled wine, and the crunch of fresh snow - wonderful.  

Manuela Richter, Christmas market lover.

Out and about in the snow

Active against the cold.

Skiing, tobogganing, winter hiking, cross-country skiing… in the following we have put together various activities for your winter holiday.

Langlauf Skating eine Person Feldberg

Cross-country skiing

Cross-country skiing trails through forests and on the heights

Kandelplatte

Winter hiking

Well prepared trails

Rodeln im Schwarzwald

Tobogganing

Fun for the whole family

Schneeschuhwandern

That special crunch under feet

Icon Schneeschuh

Winter experiences

Ice rink • Baiersbronn Wilhelm-Münster-Straße 8

Baiersbronn - Ice Skating Hall

Stokinger skilift.

Winter hiking trail

On winter tracks to the Rankmühle

Icon App

Always up to date

Tour planner & app.

With our Black Forest tour planner, you have all the Black Forest routes in one place. With our Black Forest App, you even have them on your mobile phone.

Ibach Alpenblick

Schwarzwald Tourenplaner

Ihr idealer Reiseplaner zeigt Ihnen die nächstgelegenen Touren oder Pisten und Loipen zum gewählten Standort an. Oder Sie stellen sich selbst Ihre eigenen Touren zusammen.

alle Wintertouren

SchwarzwaldApp Tourenvorschläge

Schwarzwald App

Die kostenlose SchwarzwaldApp ist der ideale Begleiter, auch im Winter. Sie können die App auf Ihr Smartphone downloaden, Tourenvorschläge oder weitere Infos zu Skigebieten, Loipen und mehr anzeigen lassen.

Ihr mobiler Begleiter auf über 4000 Touren

visit black forest in winter

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Black Forest Guide: Planning Your Trip

visit black forest in winter

Britus / Getty Images

The Black Forest, or Schwarzwald , is where German fairy tales are born. This länder (state) of Baden-Württemberg was the home of the Brothers Grimm and its fantastical forest (the largest nature reserve in Germany) and charming half-timbered villages are a top destination .

Get inspired to star in your very own storybook adventure with our guide to planning a trip to the Black Forest.

Planning Your Trip

  • Best Time to Visit: The Black Forest is a year-round destination with distinct seasons . It gets the most sunshine in Germany and late summer the ideal time to visit with its many wine festivals. In winter , there is also a lot of Christmas cheer with the many markets like Gengenbach with the world's largest advent calendar house.
  • Language: German
  • Currency: Euro
  • Getting Around: Whether you experience the area by car or by train, with a hiking stick, or on cross-country skis, the journey is half the attraction of the Black Forest. It has renowned scenic routes like portions of the Wine Road , Fairy Tale Road , and the German Clock Road.
  • Travel Tip: For many visitors, quintessential elements of a trip to the Black Forest are a souvenir cuckoo clock and the decadent Black Forest cake.

Top Destinations in the Black Forest

This region is full of charming destinations from small medieval towns to bustling student cities. Popular locations within the region include: Gengenbach, Wutach Gorge, Pforzheim, Haslach, Staufen, Schiltach, Schwäbische Alb, Titisee, and Triberg Waterfalls. Here are our top Black Forest highlights:

  • Schwarzwald Nationalpark : If you want the forest, the Black Forest National Park includes 40 square miles of trees, lakes, and picture-perfect views.
  • Freiburg : A delightful university town built around the münster (cathedral), this town largely survived WWII. Buildings look like they are ripped straight out of the fairy tales like the 16th-century Kaufhaus and medieval village life still rules with a vibrant daily market.
  • Baden-Baden : One of the oldest spa towns in Europe , Baden-Baden has been a luxury destination since Roman times with its casino, horse racing, and fine restaurants.
  • Europa-Park : Germany’s largest theme park is brimming with mini-foreign lands filled with dozens of hair-raising roller coasters, water rides, live entertainment, and accommodations for the whole family.

What to Eat and Drink in the Black Forest

You can expect German classics like sausage and potatoes piled high, but there are also local specialties you shouldn't miss out on.

The plentiful lakes mean trout is popular, while the forest promises bountiful schwein (pork). Maultaschen , similar to large ravioli, can be filled with almost anything and are served simply with butter and onions or in a soup. Spätzle (egg noodles usually topped with cheese and onions) is another delicious option.

On the wine route, a strausswirtschaft (owner-run wine tavern) is the ideal place for a rustic lunch or dinner. They are only open in the high season of late summer and early fall and offer their own wines with simple, local cuisine. As for the wines, expect rieslings, traminers, spätburgunders, and pinot gris.

Finish a meal with a decadent slice of Schwarzwalder kirschtorte , known in English as Black Forest cake. Sponge layers are moistened with kirsch (cherry schnapps), inter-laid with cream and cherries, then topped with dark chocolate shavings.

Where to Stay in the Black Forest

The Black Forest is filled with quaint pensions (B&Bs). Staying at one will save you money and provide beautiful country settings, but are best if you are driving a car .

If you are in search of luxury, Baden-Baden is where you should look. Its many spas are often located in an equally high-service hotel. Pforzheim and Freudenstadt are also luxurious spa towns.

Student-friendly Freiburg is a great destination for budget travelers. Or along with a great meal, some strausswirtschaft may offer a few rooms. Wherever you go, look for signs mentioning " Zimmer Frei " (free room).

Getting to the Black Forest

The Black Forest is tucked into the southwest corner of the country and is well-connected by roadways and train rails. Cities like Baden-Baden and Freiburg are easily reached by public transport, but to get off the beaten path or travel in the off-season, traveling by car is much easier.

The biggest airport is the Frankfurt International Airport , located about 2 hours north (90 minutes by train) of the Black Forest on A5. The smaller airport at Karlsruhe-Baden Baden, Stuttgart, or international airports at Basel-Mulhouse and Zurich may be closer, depending on your destination.

Once within the region, the Schwarzwaldhochstrasse (Black Forest High Road) is one of the best known themed drives in Germany with well-marked stops. It is on the B500 federal highway and continues for 60km from Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt. The A5/E35 motorway is the quickest way to cut through the Black Forest.

There are also some old-world tourist railway lines with traditional and chugging steam engines. The Waldenburg-Liestal route takes a hair-raising path through a narrow gorge, while the Ettlingen-Bad Herrenalb meanders through the forest.

Money-Saving Tips for the Black Forest

  • In Germany, it pays to plan ahead. The farther in advance you can book flights, train tickets, rental cars, bus tickets, and accommodations, the cheaper they will be.
  • The SchwarzwaldCard provides free admission to more than 100 attractions in the Black Forest. Museums, tourist transport like cruises, and spas are all discounted. The card is valid for three days from early April to November . It can be purchased at most tourist offices.
  • The Upper Rhine Museums Pass offers discounts to more than 150 museums, castles, and gardens. It is valid for four days in a month or can be purchased as an annual pass.
  • Deutsche Bahn's Baden-Württemberg-Ticket is the best way to travel around the area by train. It is just 21 euros for up to five people to travel in the region in one day (from 9 a.m. to 3 a.m, Monday to Friday, or at any time on weekends).
  • Many of the cities offer their own discount cards, so if you are spending time in places like Freiburg consider offers like the 3-day WelcomeKarte which provides free transport and discounts.

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  • Route planner

Snowy winter hikes in the Black Forest

© Hochschwarzwald Tourismus GmbH

Winter in the Black Forest offers snow-covered natural experiences in a class of their own. Whether you climb up to the Herzogenhorn on snowshoes, explore winter spruce forests on forest paths, enjoy the view over snow-covered mountain meadows or warm up in a cozy mountain hut with a cup of mulled wine — in Germany's highest low mountain range, you will experience a winter like in a fairy tale. We have selected five exciting snowshoe hikes and three wonderful winter hikes on which you can discover the sleepy nature of the Black Forest. The two two-day snowshoe hikes are a special Highlight because, with an overnight stay in the Krunkelbachhütte or a bivouac night on the summit of the Blößlings, you can get even closer to nature. If you want to take it easier, then stroll on the winter hikes on cleared paths, wander through snow-covered mountain forests and visit cozy huts. On your snowshoe hikes, be sure to consider the following: The hikes take you off the beaten track across dense snow-covered mountain meadows and through deep forests. In addition to winterproof clothing, good orientation and weather knowledge are mandatory in any case. In addition, a charged mobile phone with offline maps and a GPS navigation device belong in your rucksack. Keep in mind that in winter, accumulators and batteries run out faster. Therefore, it is best to pack a power bank or sufficient spare batteries. If you're not an experienced snowshoe hiker but are still interested in this unique outdoor experience, you can also take part in a guided hike. Together with the experienced hiking guides, you can learn more about the nature and landscape of the Black Forest. Just browse through our hikes and let yourself be inspired for your personal winter experience in the Black Forest. You can find even more winter hikes and snowshoe hikes at hochschwarzwald.de .

Auf Schneeschuhen hinauf zum Feldberg-Gipfel – Winterwandern im Hochschwarzwald

This tour is the dream of every snowshoe hiker: parallel to the ski slope you climb over snowy mountain meadows up to the Feldberg plateau. Above you will not only find a breathtaking view over the highest peaks of the Black Forest, but also two warm huts for a stop.

Panorama-Schneeschuhtour rund um Breitnau – Winterwandern im Hochschwarzwald

This cozy snowshoe tour takes you with fantastic views over the snowy mountain pastures around the village of Breitnau. Perfect stopover is the Naturfreundehaus Breitnau, which welcomes hikers and skiers in its warm dining room even in the dead of winter.

Starting point of the snowshoe hike is the trail … read more

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Winterwanderung von Hinterzarten rund um den Windeckkopf – Winterwandern im Hochschwarzwald

Hinterzarten is famous for its diverse ski slopes - but in the woods around the summit of the Windeckkopf it is also wonderful to hike. In winter, you are almost alone on the road here, and while most skate down the slopes on skis and snowboards, you can enjoy the sleeping winter forest. You do not need … read more

Rundwanderung über verschneite Weiden und durch Wälder rund um Hinterzarten – Winterwandern im Hochschwarzwald

If you want to hike through the snow-covered forests around Hinterzarten for even longer than on the previous 12-kilometer winter hike, then this hike is just right for you. From the winter sports resort of Hinterzarten, the tour takes you through snowy mountain meadows and through dormant winter forests … read more

Schneeschuhwanderung von Bernau zur Krunkelbachhütte – Winterwandern im Hochschwarzwald

What is more beautiful than a snowshoe hike in the Black Forest? Right, a snowshoe hike with hut retreat. If you think so too, then you should take a closer look at this round trip. From the tiny mountain village of Hof you can enjoy magnificent views over snow-covered fields and wintry forests up to … read more

Kleine Schneeschuhtour von Hütte zu Hütte rund um den Rinkenpass – Winterwandern im Hochschwarzwald

On this snowshoe tour, "hut retreat" is very important. Three huts await you in the woods and on the mountain meadows below the Feldberg summit. From the hiking car park at the Rinkenpass, the tour takes you in a round trip to the Naturfreundehaus, the Zastler Haus and the Baldenweger Hütte.

The starting … read more

Zweitägiges Schneeschuhabenteuer mit Winterbiwak auf dem Blößling – Winterwandern im Schwarzwald

This hike is an adventure for hard-boiled and experienced snowshoe hikers, but it also promises a terrific nature experience. In two hiking days, you will stomp your snow shoes across the mountain range around the Bernauer Hochtal, wander through snow-covered forests and cross white glittering mountain … read more

Zweitägige Schneeschuhtour mit Übernachtung auf der Krunkelbachhütte – Winterwandern im Hochschwarzwald

If you fancy a two-day snowshoe hike, but a tent night on the Blößling is just too adventurous, then we have just the thing for you: On this tour, it goes from Menzenschwand on the Geissen path up to Krunkelbachhütte. After your overnight stay, you will hike back to Menzenschwand with a magnificent view … read more

Wanderung vom Schluchsee nach Lenzkirch – Winterwandern im Hochschwarzwald

This comfortable winter hike leads you on cleared paths from the Schluchsee up to Lenzkirch. On your way you can enjoy winter forests and snow-covered mountain pastures - including views of the surrounding mountain landscape.

Starting point of your winter hike is the station Schluchsee. It is located … read more

Schneeschuhtour rund um den Gießbacher Kopf – Winterwandern im Hochschwarzwald

The Gießbacher head is a nearly 1,100 meter high, densely wooded ridge above the mountain village houses. A signposted snowshoe trail leads you from the trail parking lot on the outskirts of the village in a round through the enchanted winter forest. Halfway there is the sawmill hut waiting for you … read more

Schneeschuhtour zur Sattelwasenhütte – Winterwandern im Hochschwarzwald

This short snowshoe hike leads you through snowy mountain meadows and through small woodland up to the saddlewatch hut. The uncultivated hut stands on a clearing at the summit and is suitable for an extended break with panoramic qualities. Just pack a thermos of tea and a tasty snack in your backpack … read more

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  • Distance 74.8 mi
  • Duration 36:12 h
  • Elevation 14,125 ft

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The World Was Here First

The Perfect 3-Day Black Forest Itinerary

Last Updated on February 1, 2024

by Paola Drexler

Disclaimer: This article contains affiliate links. That means if you click a link and make a purchase, we may make a small commission. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. For more information, see our privacy policy.

visit black forest in winter

Even if you only have time for a 3-day Black Forest itinerary, there is no doubt that visiting this gorgeous corner of southwestern Germany is 100% worth it.

In German, the forest is called der Schwarzwald, which references the pine trees’ deep dark green colour, making the forest look almost black.

If you are a fan of the Brothers Grimm fairytales, Harry Potter or just love traditional German towns, this destination will deliver in making your wildest dreams come true.

Table of Contents

How Many Days in the Black Forest?

Since the forest’s region is so massive, you might be contemplating how many days to spend in the Black Forest.

Some people only take a day trip to get a quick feel for the area, but I would recommend spending at least 2 days in the Black Forest and even then you can expect your days to be packed and might not get to experience all of the attractions.

However, if you do have an extra day, you will find that 3 days in the Black Forest does give you more time to breathe and enjoy the scenic forest to the fullest. You can even venture outside the area to explore other nearby cities.

As you may well know, the Black Forest is located in Germany’s southwestern state of Baden-Württemberg, spanning the cities of Baden-Baden, Freiburg, Offenburg and Pforzheim. You will also find the Rhine River, which reaches other popular cities like Frankfurt and Heidelberg , in the south and west of the forest.

Although the forest is magical all year round, the best time to visit the Black Forest is during the warmer seasons to ensure you can do all the outdoor activities.

View of the Black Forest

Getting To & Around the Black Forest

You will be happy to hear that it is quite easy to get to and around the Black Forest, whether your preferred mode of transportation is by car, train or other methods.

If you are flying in, you will find that the closest airport depends on where you start your journey. For example, near the French/Swiss/German three-way border, you will have the Basel Airport which has great access from big cities like Frankfurt , Amsterdam and London .

You can also find the smaller Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden Airport on the western side of the forest. The third and probably best option is the Stuttgart Airport, which is the largest of the three and also serves some discount airline carriers.  

For those who wish to plan your Black Forest travel itinerary by car, you can rent one at the airport or other available locations, just be sure to reserve in advance.

It’s also a great idea if you want to go beyond the Black Forest and embark on a greater Germany road trip. You can browse rental car options here .

Although exploring by car might be a convenient option, you can also complete your Black Forest trip by train. You can take a direct train from many of Germany’s major cities and it’s also quite accessible from neighbouring countries.

With train routes running alongside the forest, you can explore the different areas on foot and hop on The Black Forest Railway or other railway links to get around the grand forest. You can view schedules here.

Travellers on holiday can receive a free KONUS Guest Card at most resorts, just be sure to register with your host beforehand. This card allows for unlimited access to public transportation in the area.

If you are not eligible for a KONUS card, you can also purchase a SchwarzwaldCard that not only provides bus and train rides but also gives you access to 200 attractions. With this card, you can choose any three days to use it which is perfect for your 3 days in the Black Forest.

Lake Titisee

3-Day Black Forest Itinerary

Often, when people imagine a traditional German trip, they might think of the wooden half-timbered houses, giant cuckoo clocks and neverending lush green forest.

All of that, including cute red hats, delicious meat cuts, Black Forest cake and so much more can be found in this incredible area. If you are in search of something mystical, you will be sure to find it – whether it be through the magical food or sights.

Day 1 – Klotser Maulbronn, Calw & Baden-Baden

You will begin your journey just outside of Pforzheim, the city that is nicknamed “Goldstadt” or “Golden City.” Should a start in the south be more convenient (e.g. by flying into Basel airport), you can simply reverse the order of the days. Should you have more time at the beginning, consider a visit to Schloss Karlsruhe before beginning, especially if you love grand baroque palaces.

Kloster Maulbronn and Calw

Just a twenty-minute drive from Pforzheim, you will come across Maulbronn where you can visit a historic UNESCO World Heritage Site and well-preserved monastery from 1147 known as Kloster Maulbronn or Maulbronn Monastery.

Over the years it has seen its fair share of success and hardship, but today you can find the town’s police station, town hall and other offices on the grounds. 

Make your way down to Pforzheim, where its watchmaking and jewellery history is rich since these businesses date back to 1767.

Now that you are officially in the Black Forest, you will travel deeper into the forest until you reach Calw, which is a tiny town in the northern part of the forest. Here you can see some of the most beautiful medieval houses framed with timber that look just like what you would imagine a typical Black Forest village to look like.

Maulbronn Monastery

Treetop Walk

Your next stop, at the Treetop Walk, will give you a lovely walkway where you will have the tops of the evergreen trees at eye level and you will see the forest from above. This is more than a typical hiking trail, it’s truly an experience.

The walkway will lead you to the observation tower where you will have a great view of the Black Forest and feel closer to nature than ever.

Baden-Baden Spas and Wine Route

After your treetop adventures, it’s time to head to Baden-Baden where you will get a chance to enjoy the calm side of the forest. If you have ever wondered what it was like to pamper yourself with a relaxing day at a spa during your trip to the Black Forest, well then you can find that out here.

You will also see that although Baden is the name of the region, the word also translates to bathing and the area takes its name seriously.

Baden-Baden is a great place to end your first day. You can check with your accommodations whether they have a spa you can enjoy or you can book a time with a spa nearby, like Caracalla Therme, to take a drink from the Fountain of Youth and enjoy a thermal bath. The town is famous for its thermal water springs which have attracted visitors for centuries.

However, before calling it a day you can indulge a bit more at the Baden Wine Route. Here you can learn all about the vineyards and delicious wine growing in the area. With most vineyards offering wine tastings, you can find out what wine in this part of Germany is all about.

Alternatively, you can end your day exploring more nature in the area, including the lovely Lake Mummelsee and the nearby Allerheiligen Waterfalls.

The Kurhaus in Baden Baden

Day 2 – Freiburg & Titisee

On the second day of your Black Forest road trip itinerary , you will drive south, passing the town of Gengenbach. Depending on the time of year you are visiting the area, you might be able to catch the town’s Fasnacht or carnival festivities where people celebrate with parades and wear costumes.

Black Forest Open Air Museum

The next stop is the Black Forest Open Air Museum in Gutach, where you will learn the history of the town’s iconic wooden farmhouses dating back to the 16th century.

In the immersive experience, you will also get a taste of what life was like in the Black Forest. When you are done at the museum, get back into your car or get the next train towards Freiburg am Breisgau.

Freiburg Cathedral

Once you reach Freiburg, you will follow the alluring church bell chimes beaconing you to the Freiburg Cathedral. To match the mystical and gothic atmosphere enjoy a great view of the city and forest from the top of the cathedral.

During the winter in December, you can find joyous Christmas markets to add some extra magic to your trip. If you are visiting in February you can enjoy the town’s carnival or if you go a few months later you can experience the fun wine festivals.

Just outside of Freiburg, you can also find the Schauinsland cable car which will give you incredible views of the mountains and the forest.

Freiburg

Titisee-Neustadt and Lake

After Freiburg, you will head southeast to discover the stunning Titisee-Neustadt area. On the way to Titisee, you will drive by the Ravenna Gorge, which is a valley carved by the Ravenna River where you will see an extraordinary bridge.

You will continue down the Black Forest route until you come across a charming town with all the authentic Cuckoo clocks you have heard of, along with the region’s most mouthwatering cheese and meat cuts in the shops lining the lake in the city centre of Titisee-Neustadt.

No matter the time of year, you can enjoy the glorious Lake Titisee and the various activities surrounding it. In the warm times, you can swim in it, picnic near the shore or stroll around. In colder times, if the lake freezes, you can even ice skate on it.

You will end your second day strolling the street of Titisee-Neustadt, exploring the region’s delicacies and perhaps enjoying some local schnapps. Or, if you’re still keen to see more incredible nature, head to the nearby Feldberg to enjoy some gorgeous mountain scenery.

Bridge over Ravenna Gorge

Day 3 – Triberg Waterfalls, Burg Huhenzollern, Europa Park & More

To end your 3 days in this enchanted forest with a bang, you will have a few options to choose from. There are plenty of activities to do in the forest for those who enjoy hiking, roaming the wildlife park and outdoor fun things but there are also many day trip adventures nearby.

Triberg Waterfalls

For travellers looking to spend more time in nature, you can head north from Titisee to Triberg to continue your Black Forest road trip.

In the middle of the forest, after a leisurely hike, you will come across the Triberg Waterfalls. If the weather allows it when you reach the falls, you can reward yourself with a refreshing dip into the water and enjoy the impressive waterfalls.

Triberg Waterfall

Burg Huhenzollern

After Triberg, just about an hour northeast you will find the magnificent Huhenzollern Castle which comes straight out of a fairytale and is a fantastic place to visit when planning to explore the Black Forest.

While this castle is extremely impressive, you will find it interesting to learn that there were actually two other castles built on Mount Huhenzollern before the current castle. The construction of the first castle dates back to the 11th century and reconstruction for the third castle started around 1850.

Visitors can now tour the castle and imagine themselves as royalty when strolling the rooms and grounds.

Danube River Source

From Titisee, you can travel 30 minutes east to the Danube River in Donaueschingen. The river flows through 10 countries and has become a significant landmark in European history.

If you wish to continue exploring Germany or other countries, you can easily do so on a river cruise on the Danube.

In Donaueschingen, you will also find what is known as the source of the Danube as well as the Fürstenberg brewery.

Donaueschingen

Europa Park

For those with kids or who are young at heart, you can spend the day in Rust at the amusement park Europa Park.

The theme park is the largest in Germany and after Disneyland Paris the second most popular in Europe. The diverse themes within the park are meant to give most European countries a representation.

No matter where your third day takes you, you will be sure to have a great last day in German’s wonderful Black Forest.

If you’re not interested in the theme park, then consider heading to the gorgeous town of Schiltach, located on the Kinzig River. This is a charming medieval town to visit in the Black Forest.

Where to Stay in the Black Forest

Huber’s Hotel – This 3-star hotel in Baden-Baden is an excellent base for mid-range travellers in the Black Forest. They have single and double rooms on offer, parking is included on-site and there is breakfast available in the mornings.

Hotel Rebenhof – Located about 10 kilometres from the centre of Baden-Baden and overlooking the beautiful wine region, this luxe hotel is an excellent base for those looking for a high-end escape in the Black Forest. They have countless lovely rooms on offer and a number of wonderful amenities to ensure you have the perfect stay.

limehome Baden-Baden Bäderstraße – If you’d like to return to your own apartment after a long day of exploring the Black Forest region, then you’re sure to love this aparthotel in Baden-Baden. They have a range of flats on offer that are fully furnished with everything you may need.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Black Forest hotels!

The Black Forest is sure to enchant all those who get to visit. Now that you’ve planned out what to do in this beautiful area, you can sit back and enjoy the soothing sounds of the Cuckoo clocks while digging into a delicious cherry torte in the mystifying forest.

Are you planning to visit the Black Forest? Have any questions about this itinerary? Let us know in the comments!

visit black forest in winter

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Paola

About Paola Drexler

Paola is a writer for The World Was Here First. Originally from the state of Arizona in the USA, she lived in Germany before moving to the United Kingdom. Paola loves spending her free time travelling in Europe and sometimes ever further afield.

hello Paola, we will be in Vishofen and have 4 days to explore on our own after that. We would like to see picturesque scenery and small towns, not really interested in large cities. The romantic road? the Black Forest? someplace else? Are either of those possible in 4 days by car? Should we take a train to get closer, then rent a car? We need to end up near an international airport to fly to or towards the USA on the 5th day. I wish we knew someone personally that has been to this part of the world, but we do not. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Betsy

Hi Paola, Could you tell us the best place to stay in the black forest where they make cookoo clocks, we would like to get one for our 50th anniversary, l have checked the clocks on line but would prefer to see them working. l can not walk very far at a time so would prefer to be in the area and check out all the stores

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Sunset Obsession

Sunset Obsession

Love photography. Travel the world. Capture the moments.

Black Forest in Winter: All Saints’ Abbey and Waterfalls

Germany , Sunset Obsession Blog , Travelling / Last modified on February 20, 2021 by Alex / Leave a Comment

What makes the Black Forest so great is how many little secrets and unexpected discoveries it holds. There is always something to explore, photograph, and stumble upon. This is especially true in winter. Wrapped in a soft snow blanket, the woods and hills look festive and beautiful. In this second installment of my mini-series about the Black Forest in winter I would like to invite you to a place where history, legend, and natural beauty blend together into something unique and charming. Join me on a tour of Lierbachtal valley to learn all about the ruins of All Saints’ Abbey and the incredible All Saints Waterfalls.

All Saints Abbey in winter, Black Forest, Germany

All Saints’ Abbey

Our today’s journey starts on an inconspicuous parking lot deep within the Black Forest. Like with so many others in Schwarzwald, it’s a place you would otherwise probably just drive by without taking much notice. By the way, let me briefly mention here that just driving through this part of Black Forest is pure pleasure. Curly roads with numerous uphill and downhill sections are insanely picturesque.

Sign to the All Saints Abbey, Schwarzwald

Let’s get back to the parking, however. If you’re like me and into all things medieval, you’ll definitely want to stop here. Even if history doesn’t interest you, trust me, it’s still a cool area well worth exploring. What we’re about to encounter is an impressive ruin of an early-gothic monastery that withstood the test of ages. The site is well-preserved and even though much of it is gone, what remains is still awe-inspiring.

The parking is free, but space is limited. During high season you might need to wait a bit or try your luck further down the road. From here, just follow the signs to the monastery ruins (Kloster-Ruine). You won’t need to go too far. The abbey is literally five minutes walk away from where you left the car. It’s massive, too, so you definitely won’t miss it.

All Saints Abbey in winter, Black Forest, Germany

What you’re looking at is all that remains of the All Saints’ Abbey (Kloster Allerheiligen), a medieval monastery founded in the late 12th century. The ruins are open to everyone, and there is no entry charge, so feel free to come in and examine the ancient walls and towers from up close. It’s pretty fascinating. And while you’re busy with that, let me bring you back in time.

The history of All Saints’ Abbey

Like any proper medieval church, All Saints’ Abbey has its legend. Around 1191-1192 the Dutchess Uta von Schauenburg was looking to build a monastery after her husband passed away. Since she couldn’t decide on a location, she did the obvious – attached a bag of gold to a mule and let the animal roam around. When the donkey got tired, it threw off the bag that then rolled down into the valley. The exact spot where it finally stopped was chosen to construct the chapel.

The ruins of the medieval tower in Black Forest, Germany

Even though I’m a little skeptical about this tale, it sure is an entertaining story. Either way, the chapel grew and expanded, and soon the original wooden structure was replaced with stone. The building survived two big fires in 1470 and 1555 that destroyed most of the structure, causing extensive repairs. At some point, there was even talk of moving the monastery to a less remote and climate-friendly location. However, by 1484 the canons swore an oath to never do that.

Ruins of an old abbey chapel, Schwarzwald, Germany

In 1657 All Saints was granted the status of an abbey. The next century saw the peak of its prosperity and influence. Unfortunately, it all ended in 1802 when Karl Friedrich von Baden claimed the ownership of the grounds and disbanded the abbey. Just two years later, lightning struck the monastery, causing another fire. With no one to rebuild it now, the abbey slowly fell into disarray.

Aincient Passages in All Saints Abbey, Schwarzwald, Germany

It crumbled away for a few decades but started gaining attention in the second half of the nineteenth century as a tourist attraction. A fun fact to wrap up this section: Mark Twain paid a visit to the ruins in 1878 during his trip to Europe. He even mentioned them in his book “A Tramp Abroad”.

All Saints Waterfalls

I hope you enjoyed this little dive into history. But the ruins aren’t the only thing of interest around here. After touring the abbey, let’s follow the river Lierbach further south. An easy well-marked path follows the stream for around 800 meters before descending into a lovely gorge. Here, you will find a ton of cascades and rapids that create some excellent photo opportunities.

The entrance to All Saints gorge

What follows is a series of stairs and wooden pathways leading to the bottom of the gorge. The area is called All Saints Waterfalls (Allerheilig Wasserfälle) and is definitely true to the name. The larger waterfalls are closer to the bottom, but you will discover all sorts of smaller rapids along the way. These are equally, if not more, picturesque, so don’t go rushing for the big payoff in the end.

Waterfall and water basin in Black Forest, Germany

And while we’re on the subject of rushing, an important warning. In winter, snow and ice make the descent rather challenging and even dangerous at times. There might even be a sign saying that All Saints waterfalls are off-limits due to safety reasons. While I don’t suggest you ignore it, be aware that many people do just that. If that’s what you decide on, proceed at your own risk. Expect slippery and treacherous terrain, so have good shoes and be careful. That said, there are rails and stairs to help you, and unless you do anything silly, you should be ok.

Waterfall in winter Schwarzwald (Black Forest), Germany

If you’re a photographer, make sure to have plenty of time. With the water rushing all around, you will find yourself snapping one image after another. The next thing you notice is two hours have gone by. Yep – been there, done that.

A Splendid Winter Day

If you look at the map, the entire stretch from the abbey to the All Saints Waterfalls is hardly 1.5 kilometers long. That might not feel like much, but let me assure you, it’s a lot of ground to cover. We spent several hours walking around the abbey, strolling down to the gorge, stopping for photos every step of the way, and enjoying a fantastic winter day outside.

Heading down the All Saints gorge yields a lot of lovely views

Everything I told about Schwarzwald previously still holds in this location. It’s absolutely stunning in winter. Snow turns the surroundings into a gorgeous white dream. If you’re anything like me, you’ll be in no rush to leave such a marvelous setting behind. I guess all I’m saying is this. If you’re heading to the area, don’t plan too much on top of it. It can even be enough for a day trip in its own right. As a photographer, you’ll have plenty of opportunities here and will probably not leave disappointed.

River Cascade in the Black Forest, Germany

A quick note to my fellow photographers. I highly recommend a wide-angle zoom lens for this location. In fact, that’s pretty much the only lens I used for all my images. Unless you’re also doing some winter portraiture here, there’s not too much to zoom in on. But I do suggest bringing a tripod to capture the smooth water motion at the All Saints Waterfalls.

In Conclusion

Visiting All Saints’ Abbey was one of my favorite outings in the Black Forest so far. It’s such a fascinating spot that if you live nearby I really can’t recommend it enough. And if you want more out of your journey, you can easily combine it with other beautiful sites nearby. But I’ll talk more about those in the next article.

For now, let’s sum it all up. Here are some quick facts you might want to know about the All Saints’ Abbey and the waterfalls to plan the visit:

  • Length of the hike: 1.5 km
  • Total elevation gain: 110 meters when climbing out of the ravine
  • Duration: 2-4 hours depending on your exploration style
  • Difficulty: easy around the ruins, moderate for the waterfalls
  • What to bring: something to drink, light snacks, warm clothes, and moisture-resistant shoes
  • Photo gear: camera, wide-angle lens, tripod for the water motion
  • Doable with a dog: yes

Winter days in the Black Forest are just gorgeous

If you enjoyed this tour of the All Saints’ Abbey and the waterfalls, be sure to also check out other parts of this Schwarzwald mini-series. There, I explore a more challenging but immensely picturesque hike around Karlsruher Grat and other little hidden gems of the northern Black Forest. Other than that, have a look around the blog and follow us on Instagram and Facebook to always know what we’re up to. Hope to see you there.

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Winter hikes in the Black Forest

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The 10 most beautiful winter hikes in the Black Forest

Bernau im Schwarzwald: Schneeschuhtour aufs 1415 Meter hohe Herzogenhorn. Belohnt wird der steile Anstieg mit wunderbaren Ausblicken bis auf die 140 Kilometer entfernten Alpen.

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  • Winter Hiking
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Forecast for Black Forest

The Black Forest is renowned for its breathtaking scenery, dense forests, and rolling hills. Located in southwestern Germany, it spans over 6,000 square miles and encompasses several towns and cities.

Best Winter Hiking Tours

If you're looking for the best winter hiking tours in the Black Forest, there are a few places that should be at the top of your list:

  • Schwarzwald Hochstrasse: This scenic route stretches across one of the highest ridges in the Black Forest. The trail offers panoramic views of snow-covered mountains and peaceful valleys.
  • Feldberg Mountain: As one of Germany's highest peaks outside of the Alps, Feldberg Mountain provides excellent opportunities for winter hiking. Its well-marked trails cater to hikers of all levels.
  • Todtnau Waterfalls: These magnificent waterfalls freeze during winter, creating a magical atmosphere. A hike through this area allows you to witness nature's frozen wonderland up close.

Recommended Tours

If you're seeking particularly recommended tours for your winter hikes in the Black Forest:

  • Ravenna Gorge Trail: This popular trail takes you through Ravenna Gorge with its towering cliffs and icy streams. It's an enchanting journey that showcases some of nature's most captivating wonders during wintertime.
  • Mummelsee Lake Loop: This circular trail around the picturesque Mummelsee Lake offers stunning views of snow-covered landscapes. The frozen lake adds an extra touch of magic to your winter hike.
  • Schauinsland Mountain Trail: Ascend Schauinsland Mountain and be rewarded with breathtaking vistas over the Black Forest region. The snowy scenery makes this hike even more memorable during winter.

The best time for winter hikes in the Black Forest is from December to February when the landscape is blanketed in pristine white snow. However, it's essential to check weather conditions and trail accessibility before embarking on any hiking adventure.

Similar activities in the Black Forest

Best Winter Fun in the Black Forest

Article By: Kyle McCarthy

visit black forest in winter

For families with toddlers and school-age children –- or snowsports novices of any age — Germany’s Black Forest is a magical place to fall in love with alpine sports and the outdoors. Having toured the mountains of southern Bavaria in summer, we are dreaming of returning in winter, when the region’s towering evergreens have a dusting of snow. We will re-sample the region’s cultural icons: cuckoo clocks, Black Forest cake, and Black Forest Ham, and have an excuse to wear the Bollenhut , the local hat adorned with 14 wool pompoms — in red or black depending on your marital status!

Thanks to our Schwarzwald experience planned by Black Forest Tourism , we’re all set with a plan for the very best things to do in winter.

Feldberg, Black Forest Winter Capital

The Black Forest is better known for other seasons, when fresh mountain air, spring water and wellness spas bring relief to travelers from Stuttgart, Basel, Strasbourg and several Austrian cities. Many are attracted to Mount Feldberg because, at 4,900 feet (1,493 meters), it is the highest mountain in the state of Baden-Wurttemberg, much cooler, and one of the few with lifts to provide forest views. Ride the Feldbergbahn chairlift to the summit and, on a clear day from the Feldberg observation tower, you can see the Alps.

Feldberg is a very novice-friendly ski resort, with just a few lifts and a rope tow. And, you may get to sit with an adorable life-size stuffed pig that rides gondolas to pose in visitor selfies.

Hotel Feldberger Hof is non stop Fun

Off slope activity is centered around Hotel Feldberger Hof , a very popular family resort with an indoor recreation center. The hotel features supervised, well stocked kids clubs known as Happy’s Kinderwelt , with tireless counsellors. As an award-winning familotel they have staff led programs for ages 6 months to 1 year, 1-2 years, 3-6 years and 7-11 years every day, as well as the best gear for all ages in rooms, restaurants, and on the ski slopes.

Restaurants decorated like carousels or country inns, a chocolate bar, and many lounges are part of the resort’s all-inclusive price concept. In winter, families crowd the recreation areas, small bowling alley, and several playrooms stocked with games they can play together. There’s an indoor pool with water play features, where swimming lessons are given weekdays. There’s even an on-site medical clinic.

Accommodations ranging from large, fully furnished, ski in/ski out apartments sleeping 8 to compact double rooms in a lodge are clustered around the mountain’s base. Their winter pricing for a family of two adults and two kids starts at 400€ for a 5-day package that includes a skipass and lift tickets, snowtubing, all meals and free entry to many local attractions.

Play and Get Fit at the Fundorena

At the Feldberger Hof’s Fundorena recreation center, rain or shine, families can ride ponies, ice skate on a synthetic rink, or learn the trampoline, high ropes course and climbing gym. The ski resort base has rolling meadows with 120 kms of cross country ski trails plus snowshoeing, and a Haus der Natur nature center, where you can warm up while learning about indigenous animals and their habitat.

A Day of Sightseeing in the Hoch Schwarzwald

You’ll want to see more, of course. Two-lane roads on the mountainsides of Hoch Schwarzwald, the Black Forest Highlands, lead to a few very old cities such as St. Margen (celebrating its 900th anniversary) and St. Peter — connected by the Black Forest Panorama Road.

The clock museum in the St. Margen monastery just off the Rathausplatz, or town hall square, celebrates the skilled woodcarvers and local artisans of the Black Forest. History buffs will be fascinated by the variety of export clocks these artisans developed, making porcelain shields for the French, ornately carved cuckoo clocks with hunting scenes for the US market, and painted animal portraits for the Chinese. Kids will love the constant chiming and chirping of displays. Thanks to the deep knowledge of tour guide Mrs. Lydia Schwär (+ 49 (0)7669-939078) we had a very up close look at the Black Forest clock industry since its inception in 1660.

If you expect another small village, the enormous church of St. Peter, which dominates the town of the same name, will surprise you.

The region is best known for the lake town of Titisee , whose emerald green alpine lake is encased in towering pines like the finest wedding ring. Within the town are several hotels and souvenir shops, a lakefront promenade called Seestrasse, boat rentals, a 25-minute sightseeing cruise, and plenty of parking for the Asian bus tours attracted to this quintessentially German mountain town.

Whiteness of St. Blasius

Even more impressive than St. Peter is the Dom St. Blasius in St. Blasien, a town whose leading monk was so friendly with the pope that the Vatican supported the building of a cathedral to rival the Pantheon for this small congregation. The former monks’ quarters are now used by the elite boarding school, Kolleg St. Blasien. The  180-foot-tall (62-meter) dome and huge girth (36-meter) of the main chamber impress; but the wow factor is that it’s all white. Known as the White Cathedral, it’s supported by marble coated columns and filled with white wood pews. Across the street we had a delicious St. Blasien pizza at the Klosterhof Hotel – not a white pizza, but made with Black Forest ham and local mushrooms and tomatoes.

Escorted Hiking in the Black Forest

Within the Black Forest Highlands, there are more than 600 miles of sign-posted hiking trails, providing wonderful views over the dark pine forest and sparkling mountain lakes year round. In the Zweitaelerland region , hikers have two off-slope musts: #1 is go “Goat to go” hiking and #2, visit the Elztalmuseum in Waldkirch.

The Ziege to Go (Goat to Go) hikes are run by Andrea and her daughter Leonie. These goat lovers take guests on a delightful hour-long walk up and down the hills of the Kurz property, where the family’s six pet goats lead the way and people follow. It’s fun for all ages, rain, snow or shine, by appointment only. If you’ve worked up an appetite, the nearby hamlet of Freiamt is home to Gasthaus zum Gscheid , a very cozy, local Black Forest restaurant where a chef’s plate of pork schnitzel, fresh salad, roast potatoes and fresh farmer’s cheese is the specialty.

Culture, Heritage and Tradition on Rainy Days

Waldkirch is a picture-perfect Bavarian mountain town with many shops, restaurants and traditional organ factories.  Elztalmuseum celebrates these imaginative, melodic wind-up and mechanical fairground organs invented by local woodworker Ignasz Bruder. Don’t miss the large music boxes and drehliers , which played perforated sheets of music with amazing tones – the twice weekly guided tours are a must, especially if you can meet our guide Katja Russhardt , a local music lover, who shared an unforgettable hour of anecdotes about the organ makers in her town, their history, her favorite mechanical instruments and tunes. Delightful.

Live Like a Local in the Black Forest

Not into all-inclusive resorts? The Hoch Schwarzwald tourist office has built 18  Kuckucknester Design Apartments around the region, which make great home bases for families who like to explore. In a market full of small, family-run pensions, there are about 1,000 private apartments and these, priced from 89€ per night for two, are among the best. They showcase the region in a sustainable way, with craftsmen-made wood dining tables, woven straw cushions, Duravit bathroom fixtures, down comforters and a fridge stocked with locally sourced Black Forest breakfast items.

Guests who stay two or more nights receive a Red Inclusive Card (Hochschwarzwaldcard) that makes more than 100 attractions free of charge, including the cable car at the Feldberg ski resort, several museums, and 3 hour’s use of an all-electric BMWi3 car share. (The electric car sharing program is also available, for a modest fee, to non-card holders if you enquire at the tourist office.) The Red Card is a huge value and helps prolong your stay by days.

Red Card Lets You Swim and Sip

This discount program is great if you are traveling with younger children or grandparents, because you can drop into so many places and leave if anyone is tired, cranky or disinterested, without worrying about what you paid. Teens, of course, will love the choice of activity when they tire of skiing.

Our first pick for winter is Badeparadies Schwarzwald , the huge, glass-domed indoor waterpark that would have cost a minimum of 16€ each to try without the card. The Palm Oasis pool and swimup bar; the Galaxy zone with 22 waterslides and active water play; and an all-nude wellness spa with saunas and water therapy treatments; provide something for everyone.

The Red Card works for a guided tour at the Brewery Rothaus , famous among beer lovers for its traditional brewing style using Black Forest spring water and locally sourced grains. The monks of St. Blasien began brewing Rothaus in 1791 and, although no one claims to know their original recipe, the current brewery has been making the distinctive Tannenzapfle bottled beer for 60 years. Check out the latest energy efficient equipment used to recycle waste and gray water, new bottling techniques and Rothaus’ investment in sustainable production. Since 16 is the drinking age in Germany for beer and wine, a brewery visit offers many teachable moments with teens.

The Real Black Forest Culture

Why does dessert always come last?

Café-Pension Endehof in the tiny village of Elzach-Oberprechtal is run by Jans Joachim Burger, his wife and their two soccer-playing sons. When we toured the 300-year-old Culture Olmuhl , a  historic oil press and grain mill in the town of Simonswald. several locals exclaimed „Go, Hans is such a wonderful baker!“ Overnight guests can watch him make his famous traditional Black Forest cake, and anyone can drop into their restaurant, which serves Black Forest cake daily and prix fixe surprise dinners each week in winter.

In a food coma? Bed and breakfast rates start at 34€ for a double room, with reduced kids rates.

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16 Top-Rated Attractions & Places to Visit in the Black Forest

Written by Barbara Radcliffe Rogers Updated Mar 30, 2022 We may earn a commission from affiliate links ( )

The very name Black Forest conjures up images of deep woodlands, traditional deep-roofed farmhouses, cuckoo clocks, and half-timbered villages that look as though they'd stepped out of a book of fairy tales. And, of course the famous Black Forest cherry cake. And you'll find all of these in the rolling landscapes of Baden-Württemberg in Germany's southwestern corner.

The heart of the Black Forest extends southward from Pfortzheim and Baden-Baden, roughly paralleling the Rhine Valley to the lakes near the Swiss border, and its rural farmland, forests, and picturesque villages are connected by roads that climb and curve through a never-ending series of photo-worthy views. Amid these appealing landscapes, you'll find lots to see and do in the Black Forest.

The region itself, with its traditions and unique way of life, is a major tourist attraction. The area most popular with tourists, and where you'll find some of the most beautiful places to visit in the Black Forest, is the stretch along the 150-kilometer-long Black Forest Railway (Schwarzwaldbahn), and Triberg with its famous waterfalls. The southern Black Forest is dominated by the 1,493-meter-high Feldberg, and to the south are the lakes of Titisee and Schulsee, popular family holiday areas with swimming and water sports.

Plan your trip to this beautiful region with our list of the top attractions and places to visit in the Black Forest.

1. Exploring the Black Forest by Car

2. freiburg im breisgau münster and old town, 3. baden-baden spas and gardens, 4. triberg waterfalls, 5. schiltach, 6. black forest open air museum, 7. kloster maulbronn, 8. gengenbach, 9. lake titisee, 10. the augustinermuseum, freiburg, 11. fine dining in baiersbronn, 12. ravenna gorge, 13. black forest christmas markets, 14. black forest cuckoo clocks, 15. europapark, 16. donaueschingen and the source of the danube, organized black forest tours, map of attractions & places to visit in the black forest.

The Black Forest

To find some of the best places to visit in the Black Forest, you should explore its countryside by car, following one of the several designated tourism routes. The most popular of these is the Black Forest Ridgeway (Schwarzwald-Hochstrasse), a spectacular route following hill crests through magnificent coniferous forests from Baden-Baden along the Hornisgrinde to the Kniebis plateau at Freudenstadt. The route continues southward from Triberg to Waldshut .

The Black Forest Valley Road (Schwarzwald-Tälerstrasse) begins farther north at Rastatt, home to the sumptuous Schloss Favorite, a former summer residence and pleasure palace for Margravine Sibylla Augusta of Baden-Baden, with the largest collection of early Meissen porcelain in the world. The road follows the Murg valley, past the imposing Schwarzenbach Dam and continuing to Freudenstadt, where it meets the Black Forest Ridgeway. Spa-goers should follow the Black Forest Spa Route (Schwarzwald-Bäderstrasse), a 270-kilometer-long loop of spas, including Baden-Baden, between Pforzheim and Freudenstadt.

Freiburg im Breisgau Münster

One of the great masterpieces of Gothic architecture in Germany, Freiburg im Breisgau Münster was built between the 13th and 16th centuries and is known for its beautiful interior and artworks. Highlights are the 14th-century stained glass in the aisles and the early 16 th -century altarpieces, the one in the University Chapel by Hans Holbein the Younger. The stiff climb up the 116-meter-high tower, built in 1330, is rewarded with sweeping views across the rooftops of the old town center.

Surrounding Münsterplatz , well-preserved old buildings include the arcaded red Merchants' Hall (Kaufhaus) dating from 1532, with stepped gables and oriel windows. Other highlights of the old town include the old Martinstor (St. Martin's Gate); the 13th-century Schwabentor , with its wall paintings and dioramas; the Late Gothic House of the Whale (Haus zum Walfisch); and the Gothic St. Martin's Church , with a beautifully restored interior and cloister. For a bird's-eye view of the Munster and old town, ride the Schlossbergbahn funicular railway to the 456-meter Schlossberg to look down from the Kanonenplatz.

Address: Münsterplatz, 79098 Freiburg im Breisgau

The Josephine Fountain in the Rose Garden, Baden-Baden

The mineral spas that have made Baden-Baden a popular place to visit since Roman times are the focal point of this beautiful old city at the edge of the Rhine Valley. The elegant 19th-century Friedrichsbad and the modern Caracalla Baths sit side by side, and from the beautifully groomed Kurpark (Spa Gardens) the lovely Lichtentaler Allee follows the Oos river for more than two kilometers of arboretum and gardens. The highlight is a rose garden with 400 different varieties, along with pools, fountains, and an Art Nouveau pavilion. Baden-Baden is at the start of the Schwarzwald-Hochstrasse tourist route.

Badenweiler , another spa town farther south in the Black Forest, is not as well known, but is also very beautiful, sitting on a terrace more than 200 meters above the Rhine. Its Kurpark is filled with subtropical plants, and the 11 th -century Schlossberg castle ruins command views across the Rhine valley.

  • Read More: Top-Rated Tourist Attractions in Baden-Baden

Triberg Waterfalls

A walking path climbs through the steep Triberg forest, stopping at seven different viewpoints overlooking the river as it plunges down 163 meters from pool to pool in a constant white froth. The succession of cascades and waterfalls creates an ever-changing set of views as you climb, and it's worth going all the way to the wooden bridge at the top for the views down into the rocky ravine. The falls are lighted at night, accessible all year, and are a spectacular cascade of ice in the depth of winter.

Another of the interesting places to visit in Triberg is the Black Forest Museum (Schwarzwaldmuseum), with displays focusing on the region's unique traditions and handcrafts.

Picturesque houses and flowers in Schiltach

Without doubt one of the prettiest towns in the Black Forest, Schiltach has been the home of craftsmen and tanners since at least the 13 th century. Surrounded by woodlands and located at the junction of three rivers, it was a natural to become the Black Forest's center for timber rafting. The riverside location was well-suited to tanning hides, and the oldest part of Schiltach, outside the town walls, is made up of closely set timber-framed houses of tanners.

The sloping triangular Marktplatz is surrounded by more half-timbered houses, and it's here that you'll find two of the town's free museums, Museum am Markt and the Apothecary Museum. The Schüttesäge Museum centers on the work at the former sawmill, in operation from 1491 until 1931, with an undershot water wheel more than seven meters in diameter. But the biggest attraction for tourists is the town itself, so be sure to spend some time here on a walking tour.

Black Forest Open Air Museum

As you travel through the region, you are sure to see a number of the typical multi-storied farmhouses, with their giant sloping roofs and overhanging eves. To learn more about these, as well as to tour one from its ground-floor barn to its rows of food drying under the attic rafters, stop at the Black Forest Open Air Museum. The focal point of the Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum is the Vogtsbauernhof , a traditional self-contained farmstead dating from the 1600s.

The farmhouse and its cottages and outbuildings were brought here from their original sites, and together form a typical Black Forest farming hamlet. Here, you can get a close-up view of farming and building techniques, such as thatching a roof and making cheese, as well as home skills such as weaving and wood-fire cooking. Many of the hands-on programs are suitable for children, and free guided tours in the summer are in English. The on-site café serves traditional Black Forest specialties.

Address: Wählerbrücke 1, Gutach

Kloster Maulbronn

At the northern edge of the Black Forest in the little town of Maulbronn, stands the Cistercian abbey of Kloster Maulbronn, which was founded in 1147. Its stone and half-timbered buildings comprise one of the most beautiful and best preserved of the surviving German monasteries, and Kloster Maulbronn has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The most outstanding of its many highlights is the porch of the church, known as the Paradise, a masterpiece of the early Gothic style, with cross-ribbed vaults; the beautiful pine and wrought-iron doors are the oldest known in Germany. Be sure to also see the delicate fountain house, with its three-tiered fountain, and the richly carved stalls in the monks' choir.

Address: Klosterhof 5, Maulbronn

Official site: https://www.kloster-maulbronn.de/en/home

Gengenbach

The town of Gengenbach sits at the western edge of the Black Forest, its charming Altstadt of stone towers and half-timbered houses gathered around a market square. Forming one side of the square is the 200-year-old façade of the town hall, which is best known for it important role in Gengenbach's Christmas Market .

For 24 days in December, the town hall becomes a giant Advent calendar, with each of its 24 large windows opening in turn to reveal an elaborate scene. Beyond the usual Christmas motifs, these are based on annual themes often suggested by works of great artists or by literature. At 6pm each afternoon, it seems as though the entire town population is in the square to see the window revealed.

You may notice whimsical statues throughout the town, portraying jesters and fanciful figures; you can learn more about these at the Fools Museum Niggelturm , located in a historic tower. Here, you'll see Fasnacht figures, masks, and costumes used during the pre-Lenten carnival celebrations. These Fasnacht hijinks are traditional in other parts of Germany as well but are particularly strong in this region and reach their highlight here. Climb to the top floor of the 136-meter tower for views of the town and surrounding fruit orchards.

Lake Titisee

The highest lake in the Black Forest, Titisee is one of the most popular places for families, with a wide range of entertainment possibilities. Its shores are a pleasant mix of forests and lodgings, so while there are plenty of places to stay, the lake retains its natural landscape. The Seestraße in Titisee-Neustadt is a promenade, where you can stroll between the shore and a selection of shops and cafes (a good place to stop and sample Black Forest cherry cake). Or take a 90-minute hike on the trail around the lake.

You can bike along the Bähnle-Radweg path or rent nearly any kind of small boat from motorboats to kayaks, stand up paddleboards, and pedal boats. The lake is a bit chilly for most swimmers, but the Badeparadies Schwarzwald is a water park with themed saunas, a spa, waterslides, and 18 pools surrounded by live palm trees.

The Augustinermuseum, Freiburg

Housed in the former monastery of Augustinian Hermits, the Augustinermuseum is a bright and lively place filled with artistic and historical treasures of the Black Forest and Upper Rhine regions. No dim showcases here; the building was brilliantly adapted by architect Christoph Mäckler, so the collections are displayed in well-lighted galleries that encourage viewing from different angles.

Specialties are works from the Middle Ages through the Baroque period, along with 19 th -century paintings. Medieval wood sculptures, panel paintings, and original stone figures and stained glass windows from the Munster are highlights.

Address: Augustinerplatz, 79098 Freiburg im Breisgau

Official site: www.freiburg.de/pb/,Len/237748.html

View of Baiersbronn with the Hotel Traube Tonbach in the distance

The nine scenic hamlets that make up the little town of Baiersbronn have gained fame in culinary circles for the remarkable number of Michelin stars awarded to three local restaurants. These three restaurants account for a total of eight stars: three to the Schwarzwaldstube in Hotel Traube Tonbach , three to the Restaurant Bareiss , and two to the Restaurant Schlossberg .

Between meals in these bastions of fine dining, tourists will find other attractions and things to do. The atmospheric ruins of the Kloster Allerheiligen , the Monastery of All Saints, are made even more haunting by their secluded setting and unfortunate history. Since its founding in 1192, the monastery has been destroyed repeatedly by fires — in 1470, in 1555, and finally by lightning in 1804. Southwest of Baiersbronn a wooded path leads to the 60-meter Sankenbach Waterfalls .

Ravenna Bridge

Also known as Devil's Valley, the nine-kilometer stretch of road between Freiburg and Hinterzarten descends precipitously into a narrow gorge surrounded by thickly forested and very steep hillsides. The scene is rendered all the more foreboding by the soaring stone arches of a viaduct that hovers 190 feet overhead, carrying the Devil's Valley Railway .

At the bottom of the winding road is the welcoming sight of the Hofgut Sternen , a historic hotel whose former guests included Marie Antoinette as she traveled through here on her way to become Queen of France. In the complex of traditional Black Forest buildings surrounding the inn are a glassblowing studio and a cuckoo clock shop ; you can watch craftsmen working in both of these.

A path leads farther down the valley to the historic St. Oswald's Chapel , the area's first church, built in 1148. For four weekends in December, the steep hillside beneath the stone arches of the viaduct is the site of the Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market , one of the hidden gems of the Black Forest.

Christmas decorations in Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany

December is magical in the Black Forest, when most larger towns have a Christmas market aglow with twinkling lights, and filled with booths selling gifts, holiday decorations, and an array of tempting foods. Some have carousels or other rides for children, and some have kiosks where they can make candles or cookies for gifts.

In Gengenbach , already a fairy-tale village of half-timbered houses, the town hall becomes a giant Advent calendar, a new window opening each evening at 6 to reveal a magical scene. The streets of Freiburg's old center are festooned with tiny twinkling lights, under which cabins sell spicy gingerbread, loaves of fruit-filled stollen, candied fruits, and jelly-filled doughnuts.

Esslingen's medieval center of tall half-timbered houses are the setting for an authentic medieval market, the Mittelaltermarkt . Torches and lanterns light the tents, bread and other foods are cooked over wood fires, jugglers and flame-walkers perform, and craftspeople work with hand tools. Everyone is in period costume, and only crafts and foods authentic to the Middle Ages are sold. It's like stepping back seven centuries.

Read More: Top-Rated Christmas Markets in Germany

Cuckoo Clock at Hofgut Sternen in the Ravenna Gorge

The most enduring — and endearing — example of Black Forest folk art carries a long tradition of fine craftsmanship as well. Their story begins in the 1600s, when poor farmers made additional income by creating woodcarvings from the readily abundant local trees. They carved elaborate clocks with moving figures, and as metal clockworks were expensive, they made these from wood, too. The region soon became known for its meticulously crafted and beautifully carved clocks, and their signature feature, whatever their size or complexity, was the little bird that popped out and said "cuckoo" on the hour.

Among the most popular things to do in the Black Forest is visit a shop where they make the famous cuckoo clocks . Even if you don't plan to bring one home as a souvenir, it is fascinating to see the variety and complexity of these animated clocks, and watch as skilled craftsmen create them. You can see them being made in workshops at Hofgut Sternen in the Ravenna Gorge, in the village of Triberg, and at several other shops.

Not far from Triberg, in Schonach, clockmaker Josef Dold created the World's Largest Cuckoo Clock , which was listed in the Guinness Book of World Records . Its face covers the front of a typical Black Forest house, and inside you can watch the operation of the giant works, which are all carved from wood. A shop in Triberg has since created an even larger one, but you shouldn't miss the opportunity to step inside a house that's a real cuckoo clock!

EuropaPark

More than 100 shows and attractions, including themed areas representing 15 different European countries make up Germany's largest theme park . Costumed characters engage with visitors throughout these and the three fantasy-themed areas.

Kids love the Elf Ride, and in Pirates of Batavia, they can search for the mystical Dagger of Batavia on an underground boat ride through an exotic fantasy city. Thrill-seekers can test their courage on a progression of 13 roller coasters. The most hair-raising is the Blue Fire Megacoaster , accelerating from 0 to 100 kilometers per hour in only 2.5 seconds and whirring within inches of cliff edges.

Address: Europa-Park-Straße 2, Rust, Germany

Official site: https://www.europapark.de/en

The source of the Danube River in Donaueschingen

The exact source of the Danube River still gives rise to controversy, although it has been "officially" decided by the government of the state of Baden-Württemberg that only the Donabauch spring in Donaueschingen, where the Brigach River begins, can claim to be the source. Previously, the town of Furtwangen claimed it, based on the fact that the Breg, the larger of the two streams that join to form the Danube, begins there at the Bregtal spring.

You can visit the Donabauch spring, suitably enshrined in elaborate iron grill and stonework in the Schlosspark in Donaueschingen, on the eastern fringe of the Black Forest. Schloss Donaueschingen features sumptuous state apartments full of tapestries and period furniture, a Court Library of medieval manuscripts, and a collection of works by 15 th- and 16 th -century Swabian painters.

If you are staying in Frankfurt or Zurich, you can easily visit the Black Forest on an organized day tour. These tours focus on particular highlights of the region and include an expert guide and driver, saving you the time and stress of finding your way between the top sites.

From Frankfurt

  • The 10-hour Black Forest and Strasbourg Day Trip from Frankfurt visits two beautiful countries in one day. Travel via air-conditioned coach to the famous spa town of Baden-Baden, at the edge of the Black Forest. Once you arrive, you can explore the top attractions on a guided walking tour and learn about the thermal baths. Then cross over the border to France to visit the Alsatian city of Strasbourg, with its UNESCO-listed old town and magnificent cathedral. The tour also includes a ride along the city's picturesque canals.
  • On the 11-hour Black Forest and Baden-Baden Day Trip from Frankfurt , you'll visit all the same attractions in Baden-Baden before continuing on your comfortable air-conditioned coach for a scenic ride through the Black Forest to the lovely Mummelsee, a popular lake near Seebach.

From Zurich:

  • The seven-hour Black Forest and Rhine Falls Day Trip from Zurich includes regional culinary and cultural delights, as well as plenty of natural beauty. Hop aboard a luxury coach to visit the town of Titisee-Neustadt, in Germany's Black Forest. Here, you can see how cuckoo clocks are made and try some of the region's famous Black Forest cake. A boat ride on picturesque Lake Titisee is optional. On the return trip, you can admire the tumultuous Rhine Falls, thundering 23 meters into the river below, with plenty of free time for photos.

More Related Articles on PlanetWare.com

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Places to Visit near the Black Forest: Several exciting cities surround the Black Forest. The closest is Stuttgart with its excellent art and automobile museums. It's only a short trip to the north to visit the attractions of historic Heidelberg , and just on the other side of the Rhine River Valley from the spa town of Baden-Baden, you can visit the tourist attractions of Strasbourg, in France.

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Places to Visit in Switzerland : The southern Black Forest lies almost on the Swiss border. Our pages on the top-rated tourist attractions in Zürich and top-rated day trips from Zurich can help you navigate the city and discover more places to visit in Switzerland .

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The Black Forest Of Germany

Published: October 8, 2023

Modified: December 27, 2023

by Olwen Aitken

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Introduction

The Black Forest, known as Schwarzwald in German, is a picturesque region located in southwestern Germany. Famous for its dense forests, rolling hills, and charming villages, the Black Forest has captivated visitors for centuries. This enchanting region is not only renowned for its natural beauty but also its rich history, unique culture, and delicious cuisine.

The Black Forest covers an area of approximately 6,009 square miles (15,567 square kilometers) and stretches across the states of Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria. Its name originates from the dark, densely-packed evergreen trees that blanket the landscape, creating an atmosphere of mystery and allure.

Surrounded by the Rhine River to the west and the Danube River to the east, the Black Forest is characterized by its rugged terrain, deep valleys, and stunning mountain peaks. From the imposing Feldberg, the highest peak in the region at 4,898 feet (1,493 meters), to the tranquil lakes nestled amidst the hills, the natural beauty of the Black Forest is truly captivating.

The region is also home to a diverse array of wildlife, including deer, boar, foxes, and a variety of bird species. It boasts a unique ecosystem with a plethora of plant life, including spruces, firs, and beech trees. The scent of fresh pine fills the air, creating an immersive experience for visitors.

Beyond its natural beauty, the Black Forest is steeped in history and folklore. The area has been inhabited since prehistoric times and has witnessed numerous civilizations, from the Celts and Romans to medieval knights and modern-day communities.

In addition to its historical significance, the Black Forest is also renowned for its cultural traditions. Traditional craftsmanship, such as clock-making, woodcarving, and glassblowing, are deeply embedded in the region’s heritage. Visitors can explore charming villages, each with its own unique character and traditional customs. The Black Forest is also famous for its cuckoo clocks, a symbol of German craftsmanship worldwide.

Whether you are seeking a relaxing getaway in nature, an exploration of history and culture, or a gastronomic adventure, the Black Forest offers a truly immersive experience. From hiking and cycling through scenic trails to indulging in hearty cuisine and exploring charming towns, this region has something for everyone.

Join us as we embark on a journey through the Black Forest, uncovering its hidden gems, and immersing ourselves in its natural wonders and cultural delights.

Location and Geography of the Black Forest

The Black Forest is nestled in the southwestern part of Germany, extending from the southwest corner of the state of Baden-Württemberg to the eastern fringe of the state of Bavaria. Its location makes it easily accessible from major cities such as Stuttgart, Freiburg, and Karlsruhe.

This enchanting region is bordered by the Rhine River to the west and the Danube River to the east, creating a natural boundary that adds to its charm. The Black Forest itself is a mountainous region, with its highest peak, Feldberg, standing at an impressive 4,898 feet (1,493 meters) above sea level.

The landscape of the Black Forest is diverse and offers a combination of dense forests, rolling hills, deep valleys, and sparkling lakes. Spruce, fir, and beech trees dominate the forested areas, providing a stunning contrast against the blue skies above and the vibrant greenery underfoot. The dense vegetation also contributes to the region’s fresh and invigorating air.

The Black Forest is home to several natural parks and conservation areas, including the Southern Black Forest Nature Park, Central/North Black Forest Nature Park, and Northern Black Forest Nature Park. These protected areas are havens for wildlife and provide ample opportunities for hiking, cycling, and wildlife spotting.

Running through the heart of the Black Forest is the famous Black Forest Railway. This historic railway line winds its way through breathtaking landscapes, offering panoramic views of mountains, valleys, and charming villages along the way. It is a popular mode of transportation for tourists as it allows them to explore the region at a leisurely pace.

Overall, the location and unique geography of the Black Forest make it a nature lover’s paradise. The combination of lush forests, majestic mountains, and picturesque valleys creates a breathtaking backdrop for exploration and adventure.

Climate and Weather in the Black Forest

The climate in the Black Forest is characterized by its moderate temperatures and abundant rainfall throughout the year. Due to its diverse topography, the weather can vary significantly depending on the altitude and location within the region.

In general, the Black Forest experiences a typical Central European climate with mild summers and cool winters. Summers are usually pleasant, with average temperatures ranging from 20°C to 25°C (68°F to 77°F). However, higher elevations and mountainous areas can be slightly cooler, offering relief from the hot summer temperatures.

Winters in the Black Forest are mild to cold, with average temperatures ranging from -2°C to 5°C (28°F to 41°F). Higher mountain peaks may experience sub-zero temperatures and snowfall, creating a winter wonderland for visitors. This makes the region an ideal destination for winter sports enthusiasts, with opportunities for skiing, snowboarding, and cross-country skiing.

Precipitation is fairly evenly distributed throughout the year in the Black Forest, contributing to its lush and verdant landscape. Rainfall is particularly abundant during the spring and autumn months, with occasional thunderstorms adding to the dramatic atmosphere of the region.

Overall, the climate in the Black Forest is conducive to outdoor activities and exploration throughout the year. Spring and autumn offer mild temperatures and beautiful foliage, making it an ideal time for hiking and cycling. Summer provides ample opportunities for outdoor adventures, while winter offers a chance to embrace the frosty charm of the region.

It is important to note that weather conditions can change quickly in the mountains and higher elevations of the Black Forest. It is advisable to check weather forecasts and be prepared for variations in temperature, especially if engaging in outdoor activities.

Whether you visit the Black Forest in spring, summer, autumn, or winter, you are sure to be greeted by stunning landscapes and a climate that invites exploration and appreciation of nature’s wonders.

Flora and Fauna in the Black Forest

The Black Forest is a haven for biodiversity, boasting a rich variety of flora and fauna. Its diverse landscapes, including dense forests, rolling hills, and meandering rivers, provide habitats for a wide range of plant and animal species.

When it comes to flora, the Black Forest is characterized by its dense evergreen forests and a variety of tree species. Spruce, fir, and beech trees dominate the landscape, creating a lush and verdant environment. These towering trees provide shelter and food for a plethora of wildlife and contribute to the region’s fresh air and scenic beauty.

In addition to the dominant tree species, the Black Forest is also home to a wide array of plants and flowers. Wildflowers such as primroses, violets, and orchids dot the forest floor, adding bursts of color to the surroundings. Edible mushrooms, such as morels and chanterelles, also thrive in the damp and fertile forest soil.

The Black Forest is teeming with animal life, making it a paradise for wildlife enthusiasts. The dense forests provide an ideal habitat for diverse species, including deer, roe deer, wild boar, and foxes. Visitors may also spot smaller mammals such as rabbits, squirrels, and hares darting through the undergrowth.

The birdlife in the Black Forest is equally impressive. Various bird species can be found here, including blackbirds, woodpeckers, jays, and owls. Birdwatchers will have a field day as they observe the feathered residents and listen to their melodious songs echoing through the forest canopy.

For nature lovers, the Black Forest offers a chance to encounter more elusive creatures. Lynx, wild cats, and even the occasional wolf have been sighted in the region, although they are more reclusive and not commonly encountered.

With its vast network of rivers and streams, the Black Forest is also home to a variety of aquatic life. Trout, eels, and crayfish populate the clear waters, providing an opportunity for fishing enthusiasts to try their hand at angling.

Exploring the Black Forest’s flora and fauna is an integral part of experiencing the region’s natural wonders. Whether you choose to hike through the forest, go birdwatching, or simply immerse yourself in the tranquility of the environment, the Black Forest promises encounters with fascinating wildlife and a deep appreciation for its ecological diversity.

History and Cultural Significance of the Black Forest

The Black Forest is steeped in rich history and cultural significance, dating back to ancient times. The region has witnessed the rise and fall of civilizations, the emergence of cultural traditions, and the development of unique customs that are still celebrated today.

Archaeological evidence suggests that the Black Forest has been inhabited since the Stone Age, with evidence of early settlements dating back thousands of years. The Celts are believed to be one of the earliest known tribes to have settled in the region, followed by the Romans who established trade routes and fortifications.

During the Middle Ages, the Black Forest played a crucial role as a center of mining, manufacturing, and trade. The abundance of natural resources, including timber, minerals, and water, fueled the growth of towns and villages in the region. The development of the clock-making industry in the Black Forest during this time laid the foundation for its renowned craftsmanship, which is still celebrated today.

One of the most fascinating aspects of the Black Forest’s history is its folklore and legends. Tales of witches, spirits, and enchanted creatures are deeply ingrained in the cultural fabric of the region. The Brothers Grimm, famous for their collection of fairy tales, drew inspiration from the mythical stories that originated in the Black Forest.

The cultural significance of the Black Forest is also evident in its traditional festivals, music, and culinary heritage. The region is known for its vibrant folk festivals and events, where locals and visitors come together to celebrate with music, dance, and traditional costumes.

Music is an integral part of the Black Forest’s cultural heritage. The region is famous for its traditional folk music, featuring instruments such as the accordion and the zither. These melodic tunes can often be heard at local festivals, in taverns, and even during traditional weddings.

When it comes to cuisine, the Black Forest is renowned for its hearty and flavorsome dishes. Black Forest ham, a smoked cured ham, and Black Forest cake, a delicious chocolate and cherry dessert, are internationally recognized delicacies originating from the region.

Today, the Black Forest continues to preserve its cultural traditions and share them with visitors from all over the world. Whether it’s exploring the ancient ruins, participating in traditional folk festivals, or indulging in the local cuisine, immersing oneself in the history and culture of the Black Forest is a truly captivating experience.

Tourism in the Black Forest

The Black Forest is a popular tourist destination, attracting visitors from around the world with its stunning natural landscapes, charming towns, and rich cultural heritage. With a range of activities, attractions, and experiences, there is something for everyone in this enchanting region.

Outdoor enthusiasts will find an abundance of opportunities for adventure in the Black Forest. The region is crisscrossed with a network of hiking and cycling trails, offering breathtaking views of mountains, forests, and lakes. From leisurely strolls through picturesque villages to challenging hikes up majestic peaks, there are routes catering to all skill levels.

The Black Forest is also a paradise for nature lovers. Its many nature parks and conservation areas provide opportunities to observe diverse wildlife, explore tranquil lakes, and immerse oneself in the serenity of the forest. Visitors can engage in birdwatching, wildlife spotting, or simply bask in the natural beauty that surrounds them.

For those seeking cultural immersion, the Black Forest offers a glimpse into its rich heritage. Traditional craftsmanship, such as clock-making, woodcarving, and glassblowing, can be witnessed in workshops and museums. Exploring picturesque towns and villages, with their half-timbered houses, flower-bedecked balconies, and lively markets, is like stepping back in time.

In addition, the Black Forest is home to a number of captivating attractions. From the stunning Triberg Waterfalls, one of Germany’s highest waterfalls, to the majestic Hohenzollern Castle, perched atop a hill and offering panoramic views, there is no shortage of sights to behold. The Black Forest Open Air Museum showcases the region’s rural heritage, while the Black Forest Railway takes visitors on a scenic journey through breathtaking landscapes.

Families will also find plenty to do in the Black Forest. Theme parks, wildlife parks, and adventure parks offer entertainment for children and adults alike. The region’s natural beauty provides a backdrop for countless outdoor activities, from boat rides on pristine lakes to wildlife encounters in nature reserves.

When it comes to gastronomy, the Black Forest is a culinary delight. Traditional dishes such as Black Forest ham, hearty stews, and delicious pastries tempt the taste buds. Visitors can also indulge in wine tasting, sampling the region’s excellent wines produced in vineyards along the Rhine River.

Whether you are seeking an active outdoor adventure, a cultural exploration, or simply a relaxing break in nature, the Black Forest offers a diverse range of experiences to satisfy every traveler’s interests. With its captivating beauty, rich history, and warm hospitality, it is no wonder that the Black Forest continues to be a cherished destination for tourists.

Outdoor Activities in the Black Forest

The Black Forest is a playground for outdoor enthusiasts, offering a wide array of activities that allow visitors to immerse themselves in the breathtaking natural beauty of the region. From thrilling adventures to peaceful nature walks, there is something for everyone to enjoy in this picturesque destination.

Hiking is one of the most popular activities in the Black Forest, thanks to its extensive network of well-marked trails. With trails ranging from leisurely walks to challenging treks, hikers of all levels can explore the region’s dense forests, meandering rivers, and scenic mountain peaks. The Westweg Trail, a long-distance hiking route that stretches for 280 kilometers (174 miles) through the Black Forest, is a must-do for avid hikers.

Cycling enthusiasts can also indulge in the beauty of the Black Forest on its numerous cycling routes. From leisurely rides alongside tranquil lakes to more challenging mountain biking trails, there are options for riders of all abilities. Cyclists can admire the stunning landscapes, picturesque villages, and charming vineyards as they pedal through the region.

The Black Forest is also a paradise for water sports enthusiasts. The region boasts several lakes and rivers, providing opportunities for activities such as swimming, canoeing, and paddleboarding. The crystal-clear waters of Lake Titisee and the Schluchsee reservoir are perfect for a refreshing dip or a leisurely boat ride.

Adrenaline junkies will find plenty to satisfy their thirst for excitement in the Black Forest. Paragliding, zip-lining, and rock climbing are just a few of the thrilling activities available. The region’s rugged terrain and stunning vistas offer the ideal backdrop for these heart-pumping adventures.

Nature lovers will appreciate the abundance of wildlife and birdwatching opportunities in the Black Forest. Birdwatchers can spot a variety of species, including woodpeckers, owls, and jays, while wildlife enthusiasts can encounter deer, boars, and other indigenous animals. Several nature reserves and national parks provide protected habitats for these creatures.

In winter, the Black Forest transforms into a winter wonderland, attracting snow sports enthusiasts from near and far. Skiing, snowboarding, and cross-country skiing are popular activities in the region, thanks to its excellent ski resorts and well-groomed slopes. The snowy landscapes and cozy mountain lodges offer a magical winter experience.

For those seeking a more leisurely outdoor experience, the Black Forest offers ample opportunities for picnics, nature walks, and scenic drives. Visitors can relax in the shade of towering trees, stroll along the banks of bubbling streams, or take in panoramic views along the region’s winding mountain roads.

With its diverse range of outdoor activities, the Black Forest caters to every adventurer’s preferences. Whether you are seeking an adrenaline rush, a peaceful nature retreat, or a mix of both, this region promises unforgettable experiences in the great outdoors.

Attractions in the Black Forest

The Black Forest is home to a plethora of attractions that are bound to captivate visitors with their beauty, history, and cultural significance. From natural wonders to architectural marvels, there is something for everyone to explore and discover in this enchanting region.

One of the most iconic attractions in the Black Forest is the Triberg Waterfalls, one of Germany’s highest waterfalls. Located in the heart of the Black Forest, the cascading water, surrounded by lush greenery, creates a breathtaking sight. Visitors can hike along well-maintained trails to various lookout points, where they can marvel at the impressive power and beauty of the falls.

The Hohenzollern Castle is another must-visit attraction in the Black Forest. Perched atop a hill, this majestic castle offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The castle, with its fairytale-like architecture, transports visitors back in time to the era of knights and princesses. Take a guided tour to explore the castle’s opulent interiors and learn about its fascinating history.

The Black Forest Open Air Museum is a unique attraction that provides a glimpse into the region’s rural heritage. Spread over 160 acres of land, the museum features traditional farmhouses, workshops, and mills that have been carefully restored and preserved. Visitors can explore the different exhibits, which showcase the daily life, craftsmanship, and traditions of the Black Forest’s past.

A visit to the Black Forest would not be complete without a scenic journey on the Black Forest Railway. This historic railway line winds its way through picturesque landscapes, passing through deep valleys, charming villages, and lush forests. Sit back, relax, and enjoy the panoramic views from the comfort of a vintage train carriage.

The region is also known for its charming towns and villages, each with its own distinct character and attractions. In Freiburg, visitors can explore the historic old town, with its cobblestone streets, medieval buildings, and the stunning Freiburg Minster. For those interested in the art of clock-making, a visit to the town of Triberg is a must, where you can learn about the intricate craftsmanship behind the world-famous Black Forest cuckoo clocks.

The Titisee, a natural lake nestled in the heart of the Black Forest, is a popular destination for relaxation and outdoor activities. Visitors can take boat rides on the lake, walk along the shore, or indulge in delicious local cuisine at the lakeside cafes and restaurants.

These are just a few examples of the many attractions that the Black Forest has to offer. Whether you are seeking natural beauty, architectural marvels, or cultural experiences, this region promises a myriad of captivating attractions that will leave you with lasting memories.

Traditional Cuisine and Local Products of the Black Forest

The Black Forest is not only a feast for the eyes but also a culinary delight. The region’s traditional cuisine is known for its hearty flavors and use of locally sourced ingredients. From savory dishes to decadent desserts, the Black Forest offers a tantalizing taste of its rich culinary heritage.

One of the most famous culinary delights from the Black Forest is the Black Forest ham, a smoked cured ham with a distinct flavor. It is made from locally raised pigs and is seasoned with a blend of spices before being smoked over fir branches. The result is a tender and flavorful ham that is often enjoyed thinly sliced as a cold cut or incorporated into traditional dishes.

Another beloved specialty of the region is the Black Forest cake, or Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte. This decadent dessert features layers of chocolate cake, whipped cream, and cherries, all topped with chocolate shavings. The cake takes its name from the region’s cherries and the famous Black Forest cherry liqueur, known as kirsch, which is often used as an ingredient.

The Black Forest cuisine also features hearty stews and soups, often made with locally sourced ingredients. One such example is the Black Forest potato soup, a comforting dish made with potatoes, bacon, and herbs. It is perfect for warming up on chilly days and showcases the region’s use of earthy and flavorful ingredients.

When it comes to beverages, the Black Forest is known for its production of high-quality wines, particularly white wines. The region’s vineyards, situated along the banks of the Rhine River, produce a variety of wines, including Riesling and Müller-Thurgau. Wine enthusiasts can explore the vineyards, indulge in wine tastings, and learn about the winemaking traditions of the Black Forest.

In addition to its culinary delights, the Black Forest is also renowned for its traditional crafts and local products. Woodworking has a long-standing tradition in the region, with woodcarving being a prominent craft. Intricately carved cuckoo clocks, wooden figurines, and decorative items are among the unique products that showcase the craftsmanship of the Black Forest.

The region is also known for its production of high-quality glass and crystal products. Glassblowing workshops offer demonstrations, allowing visitors to witness the skilled artisans create delicate glassware and ornamental pieces.

When visiting the Black Forest, be sure to explore the local markets and shops to discover the region’s culinary delights and local crafts. From fresh produce and regional specialties to handmade crafts and souvenirs, there is something for everyone to take home and enjoy a piece of the Black Forest’s rich heritage.

The Black Forest is a truly captivating destination, offering a harmonious blend of natural beauty, rich history, and cultural traditions. From its dense forests and rolling hills to its charming towns and breathtaking attractions, this region in southwestern Germany has something to offer every visitor.

With its extensive network of hiking trails, cycling routes, and opportunities for water sports, outdoor enthusiasts will find their paradise in the Black Forest. The region’s diverse flora and fauna add to the allure, providing ample opportunities for wildlife spotting and birdwatching.

But the Black Forest isn’t just about nature. Its history and cultural significance are embedded in every aspect of the region. From ancient ruins and magnificent castles to traditional crafts and local festivals, the Black Forest offers a glimpse into the past and a chance to immerse oneself in its rich heritage.

Indulging in the traditional cuisine of the Black Forest is a delight for the senses. From the renowned Black Forest ham and Black Forest cake to hearty stews and local wines, the region’s gastronomy reflects its vibrant flavors and use of locally sourced ingredients.

As you explore the Black Forest, you’ll encounter picturesque towns and villages, each with its own charm and character. Whether it’s admiring the architectural beauty of Freiburg, getting lost in the world of clock-making in Triberg, or enjoying the tranquility of the Titisee, the region’s attractions offer a diverse range of experiences.

Whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, or cultural immersion, the Black Forest provides a remarkable journey. The region’s natural wonders, rich history, and warm hospitality make it a destination that will leave a lasting impression.

So come, immerse yourself in the beauty of the Black Forest, breathe in the fresh air, indulge in its culinary delights, and create memories that will last a lifetime.

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The Triberg Waterfalls are the highest waterfalls in Germany and one of the most famous places to visit in the Black Forest

4. September 2021 - Anika Semmer

10 Must-See Places to Visit in Black Forest – An Insider’s Tips

visit black forest in winter

Black Forest ham, cuckoo clock and Bollenhut, these are the first things that most people think of the Black Forest. I come from the “Ländle”, from a small village at the foot of the northern Black Forest and the Black Forest is for me local recreation area, escape from everyday life, epicurean and longing place – and not least home. With an area of around 6000 square kilometers, the Black Forest is Germany’s largest and highest low mountain range and quite rightly one of Germany’s most popular vacation destinations ! From north to south it stretches over 150 km, so all places to visit in Black Forest are within reach for a day trip!

Some of the most beautiful places to visit in Black Forest are legendary and offer the perfect scenery for fairy tales of the Brothers Grimm. For example, even my home village has a small dilapidated castle that was split by lightning and from whose tower you have a magnificent view over the northern Black Forest and the Rhine plain all the way to Strasbourg Cathedral on nice days. Beware! Not far from the castle, it is said that a headless horseman challenges unsuspecting hikers to a game of skittles. And if you’re lucky, you might find the fabled blue flower on the shores of Lake Mummel that can make you invisible. So it’s no wonder that famous romantics such as Eichendorff and Robert Schumann lost their hearts to the mystical Black Forest. And it wasn’t just the famous Russian author Dostoevsky who played his heart out in the Baden-Baden casino, once making the rich spa town one of the top addresses for the nobility and the rich.

My absolute highlights are a colorful mix of very different excursion destinations in the Black Forest and ideal for romantic weekends, an exciting family trip or weekend getaway to relax and enjoy. Excursion tips for Black Forest connoisseurs and insiders I have firmly plan to put together in further articles. By the way, on Abenteuer Freundschaft you can find even more tips for magical excursions in Baden Württemberg !

The 10 Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Black Forest

All Saints' Monastery Ruins is one of the best places to visit in the Black Forest

Wildly romantic in the middle of the Black Forest: Monastry All Saints’

One thing in advance: The journey by bus and train is well possible for all excursion destinations. However, the journey by car via the Black Forest High Road is very worthwhile, because it offers breathtaking panoramas and some attractions such as the world’s largest cuckoo clock are located directly on the road.

For all nature lovers, the Black Forest National Park , located between the Black Forest High Road and the Murg Valley, is a hot tip for hiking and discovery tours. There you can once again discover free-roaming lynxes on the lynx trail, and the Lothar Trail leads through the Black Forest, which has been untouched by humans since the storm, via footbridges, stairs, ladders and a viewing platform.

1. Ravenna Gorge: High Black Forest Cultural Monuments and Magnificent Nature

Ravenna Bridge

The Ravenna Bridge for 1885-87 built and leads over the Höllental

Grand gorge hike meets cultural monuments in the Upper Black Forest ! In a side valley of the Höllental lies the Ravennaschlucht. The Ravenna torrent meanders through the gorge with several small waterfalls and cascades.

One of the most beautiful circular hiking trails is the Heimatpfad Hochschwarzwald, which leads through the Ravennaschlucht past old mills, saws and a rope factory. The gorge is crossed by the 37 m high Ravenna bridge, the viaduct of the Höllentalbahn, which is worth seeing, in the back part of the gorge.

There you pass the small St. Oswald Chapel (built in 1148) and the famous Hofgut Sternen, where Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and Marie Antoinette stayed in the 18th century. There is also a glassblowing workshop to visit here and you can enjoy local dishes on the sun terrace or in a Black Forest style room.

Travel: By car, you take the B31 towards Freiburg at the Triberg / Furtwangen / Hinterzarten exit and drive to Hinterzarten. There you can park at the Kurhaus Hinterzarten. By public transport, you travel by bus 7257 Neustadt Titisee Freiburg and get off at the bus stop Hinterzarten.

2. Feldberg Summit Tour: On the Highest Elevation of Baden Württemberg

Hiking on the Feldberg in summer, in winter it is a popular destination and one of the best places in the Black Forest for skiing

If you don’t want to hike you can get to the Feldberg quite comfortably with the Feldbergbahn

Most of the Feldberg is a nature reserve and offers hiking trails of various degrees of difficulty. The Feldbergsteig is a beautiful, highly recommended hiking trail on narrow paths that leads from the village of Feldberg to the summit and offers breathtaking views over the Black Forest. The hike is challenging and you should plan at least 5 hours for the 12.47 km. On the hike, you pass several huts with places to stop for refreshments (including the 300-year-old Raimartihof with delicious regional dishes) and pass the idyllically located Feldsee lake. The walk around the picturesque Feldsee, which is surrounded on three sides by mighty 300m high steep walls, is also worthwhile!

If you don’t want to hike, you can also take the Feldbergbahn and ride it to the mountain station. From there you can walk past the Feldberg tower to the summit at 1493m or in about 30 minutes to the Feldsee. In the Feldberg tower, curiously enough, there is a Black Forest ham museum.

From the summit, with good visibility, you have a wonderful view as far as the Vosges and the Swiss Alps.

Journey: From Freiburg and Donaueschigen B31 direction Hinterzarten / Titisee-Neustadt and take the B500 direction Basel/Feldberg and drive to the House of Nature. From Lörrach take the B 317 direction Feldberg and exit at Haus der Natur. By public transport, take the bus to the Feldberger Hof stop.

3. Triberg Waterfalls: One of the Most Impressive Places to Visit in Black Forest

The Triberg Waterfalls are the highest waterfalls in Germany and one of the most famous places to visit in Black Forest

The Triberg Waterfalls near Triberg in the Upper Black Forest

The Triberg Waterfalls are one of the most impressive places to visit in Black Forest. Over 7 cascades, the water plunges 163 m into the depths, making them one of the highest waterfalls in Germany. In total, you can explore the area on three easily accessible, natural trails: the Nature Trail, the Culture Trail and the Cascade Trail. From the main entrance you should plan about 3.5 hours for the 9.8 km. From a wooden footbridge, you have a perfect view of the water cascading down into the basin, and at the same time you get to see fine drops of water. The paths are equipped with information boards about fauna, flora and history of the waterfalls and if you are lucky, you will meet one of the trusting squirrels, which do not feel shy of the visitors.

The most impressive visit is during the melting season or after heavy rain or in the late evening hours: until 10 p.m. the waterfalls are illuminated and there is a special atmosphere. A special highlight is a visit in the icy winter, when the icicles and solidified masses of water in the snow offer a fairy-tale experience.

Getting there: Parking is available in Triberg and then walk towards the waterfalls. The main entrance can be reached from Triberg, you can also enter the area through four other entrances.

Admission: Adults 8 euros, youth and students (6-17 years) 7.50 euros, family ticket 20 euros.

4. Mill Hike Ottenhöfen: Pleasure and Historic Mills

The Mill hike in Ottenhöfen, with its 9 historic mills and plenty of Black Forest flair, is one of the secret tips for places to visit in the black forest in southern Germany.

There are 9 historic mills to discover on the mill hike

You pass 9 historic, mostly restored mills on the varied Mühlenweg near Ottenhöfen in the northern Black Forest. It goes through beautiful side valleys and again and again you have a wonderful view of Ottenhöfen. For me, this about 12 km long hike is one of the most varied in the northern Black Forest. You should plan about 3.5 hours pure running time for it. Apart from the picturesque mills, which are great photo motifs and can also be partially visited inside by arrangement, the Ortenau is very scenic and one of the most beautiful unknown places to visit in Black Forest.

During the hike on the beautiful circular trail, the thirsty hiker is always awaited by schnapps fountains (also with non-alcoholic beverages) and there are several places to stop for a snack.

The circular trail starts at the spa gardens right next to the Ottenhöfen train station – it is best to start the circular trail in the direction of Hammerschmiede at around 10 am. So you can stop at about 12 o’clock in the Benz mill.

Arrival: Free parking is available at the Ottenhöfen train station and at the Protestant and Catholic churches. By car, take the L87 to the center of Ottenhöfen and there to the train station. By public transport, get off at Achern station and take the S-Bahn from there to Ottenhöfen station.

5. Enchanted Monastery Ruins Allerheiligen and Allerheiligen Waterfalls

The Allerheiligen monastery ruins, together with the Allerheilign waterfalls, are a beautiful destination also for families

The monastery ruins in Lierbachtal is one of the most popular places to visit in Black Forest

The wildly romantic All Saints Monastery Ruins (founded in the 12th century) are located in the Lierbach Valley, above the thundering All Saints Waterfalls. Since the monastery was struck by lightning and destroyed in 1804, it now enchants visitors with its Gothic arches amidst the picturesque landscape. From the monastery ruins via the Angel’s Pulpit to the waterfall and back, a beautiful circular hiking trail with panels with legends about Allerheiligen Monastery and the waterfalls cascading 83 meters over 7 cascades leads. The easy hike leads along the waterfalls over wooden bridges and is about 3.6 km long and you should plan 1.5 hours. It is suitable for families with children!

Many romantics visited the monastery ruins in the 18th century and even Mark Twain was here and commented on this lovely spot.

Both at the monastery ruins and at the All Saints Waterfalls there is a large free parking lot and the excursion destination is well visited. In vacation periods, it is therefore worth to be early!

Travel: Coming from the A5 freeway, take the Appenweier exit (B 28) and drive to Oppenau to the district of Lierbach. Alternatively, from the exit Achern (L87) direction Ottenhöfen on the Schwarzwaldhochstraße to Ottenhöfen and there turn to Allerheiligen. From Baden-Baden, take the Schwarzwaldhochstraße to Ruhestein and turn off here to Allerheiligen.  By public transport, it is best to travel from Oppenau train station (bus line 7125).

6. Freiburg – Germany’s Charming Sunny City

Freiburg im Breisgau is a destination that anyone exploring Baden-Württemberg will love

Freiburg is famous for its pretty alleys

Charming alleys, historic old town, lively university city, Freiburg is one of the most beautiful cities in Germany. No city in Germany has more hours of sunshine a year and the pearl in Breisgau is perfect for a culinary or cultural discovery trip or simply for strolling.

The beautiful Minster Market in front of the famous Cathedral of Freiburg and many imposing buildings from the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and modern times merge into a charming city that is really worth exploring for a longer day trip or short trip.

7. Feasting and Hiking at Sasbachwalden

Sasbachwalden is a quaint wine village in the Ortenau region and one of the places to visit in the northern Black Forest that is particularly worthwhile for gourmets

The flower and wine village of Sasbachwalden is surrounded by vineyards and the Black Forest

Locals appreciate it more than almost any other Baden wine: the Pinot Noir of the Alde Gott Black Forest vintners. This wine grows in the foothill area near Sasbachwalden, and there is a varied, highly recommended connoisseur’s Panormamaweg trail there, which offers not only the great view over the vineyards to the Rhine plain but much more. In the village you can feast wonderfully: besides the Alde Gott wine there are many local specialties like good Black Forest ham and delicious products from vineyard peaches grown here!

The Alde Gott Panorama Trail begins in the flower and wine village of Sasbachwalden with its many half-timbered houses and typical Black Forest village flair. There are several places to stop and schnapps fountains along the way. It leads over 13 bridges through the idyllic Gaishöll waterfalls, past llamas and the historic Straubenhöfmühle mill along scattered fruit meadows, chestnut forests and vineyards. Here is also a Bildstöckle of the Alde Gott, which tells the legend of the Alde Gott. Again and again there is a wonderful panoramic view of the Rhine plain, the Black Forest and the Hornisgrinde, and on a clear day you can see the Vosges Mountains.

The Alde Gott Panoramaweg starts at the Gaishöll waterfalls, the access path starts at the Kurhaus. You should plan 3.5 hours for the trail, which is about 10 km long.

Getting there : By public transport, take bus 7123 from Achern to Sasbachwalden and get off at the Gaishölle, Hörchenberg or Bischernberg stop.

8. Europapark Rust – One of the Places to Visit in Black Forest for Adrenaline Fans

Europa-Park Rust is the largest amusement park in Germany

Adrenaline, action and shows: the Europa-Park in Rust

Spectacle, adrenaline and more than 100 attractions and shows are now offered by the Europa Park Rust. For families with children, this amusement park is one of the places to visit in Black Forest, where no way should pass Germany’s largest theme park. 🙂

The name says it all here and you can experience and experience all of Europe in one day, because the park comes up with 15 European themed areas, which are designed by replicas and scenery of typical national architecture and vegetation.

The highlights of Europapark are the 13 roller coasters – also with VR (virtual reality) and the 23 hours of show program that the park offers.

Getting there: Parking in the visitor parking lot costs 7 euros. Coming from the A5, take exit 57b to Rust and follow the signs. The Eurocity Express Frankfurt-Milan stops recently twice a day at the stop Ringsheim and from there with the Europa Park bus directly to the main entrance.

Admission: Adults from 12 years: from 55 euros, children (4-11): 47 euros, seniors (from 60): 47 euros.

9. Baden-Baden, the Sophisticated Bathing City

Baden-Baden is a destination in the Black Forest that's perfect for rainy days and one of the secret tips for places to visit in the Black forest

The Kurhaus Baden-Baden also houses the famous casino

World-renowned spa town, famous casino, grand festival house, international gallop races: Baden-Baden is a town that has an incredible amount to offer. The small town has a beautiful pedestrian zone with buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries when the town was popular and famous among the rich and noble. They came to Baden-Baden to gamble in the sumptuously appointed casino, to drink the healing waters in the drinking hall (and to be seen), and to convalesce in one of the spas.

Today, Baden-Baden still exudes the flair of the rich and you can spot a celebrity or two during a carriage ride in the (blooming) Lichtentaler Allee under redwood trees or during the Great Week at the racecourse.

Even in rainy weather, Baden-Baden is one of the best places to visit in Black Forest: healing thermal water bubbles up here from 12 springs and even the Romans built a spa here. A visit to the traditional beautiful Friedrichsbad with soap brush massage, which already inspired Mark Twain, or in the sauna area of the Caracalla Therme in the middle of the city are a relaxing, special experience.

10. Mummelsee – Fabulous Excursion Destination in the Black Forest

Mummelsee is one of the places to visit in Black Forest, around which many legends entwine.

Mytstical Mummelsee in the morning mist

In the morning, the fog hangs mystically over the legendary Mummelsee. The small cirque lake is fantastically situated directly at the foot of the 1164m high Hornisgrinde with its original high moor landscape.

There is a lot of Black Forest idyll at the Mummelsee: myths and legends that provide entertainment on a hiking trail around the lake, cuckoo clocks and really recommendable wood oven bread with Black Forest sausages and a view of the fir trees. On weekends, all hell breaks loose here – it’s worth setting out early in the morning and preferably on weekdays!

Besides the short hike around the lake, I can recommend the Mummelsee-Hornisgrinde trail. This circular trail, about 6.7 km long, leads to the Hornisgrinde plateau with its high moorland landscape and exciting geological information boards and the Hornisgrinde and Bismarck towers on the summit of the Hornisgrinde. In 2.5 hours you can walk it relaxed.

Arrival: Parking is free at the Seibelseckle. The Mummelsee is located directly on the Black Forest high road B500 between Freudenstadt and Baden-Baden. By public transport, you can travel by bus 7123 from Achern to the stop Mummelsee.

Beautiful places to visit in Black Forest there are many more – here I have limited myself to my absolute best of and put together the destinations as different as possible. But there is much more to discover, not only in the mystical, legendary Black Forest. We are always discovering new things – everywhere in Germany. On Abenteuer Freundschaft you will find many leisure activities and and excursion tips and all kinds of activities with friends , activities for two or with the family.

You don’t want to miss any more excursion tips? Then just follow us on Facebook and Instagram and subscribe to our newsletter ! 😉

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The Black Forest Travel Guide

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As the setting of countless Grimm Brothers’ fairy tales, the Black Forest happily plays up to its image as a land of cuckoo clocks, cherry gâteaux, outlandish traditional garb, hefty half-timbered farmhouses and hill upon hill of dark evergreen forest. But even brief exploration soon reveals more of the character of a region that’s part of the state of Baden-Württemburg but was shaped as much by its history as a long-disputed borderland between Germany, France and Switzerland – and where something of each is in evidence.

Baden-Baden

The kinzig and gutach valleys, the northern black forest, the southern black forest, the cuckoo clock.

Since Roman times this series of rounded granite summits, which topographically forms a counterpart to France’s Vosges on the other, western, side of the Rhine Valley, has been a border region. The Romans found it harsh and rather impenetrable and the region took centuries to populate and even then was considered an oddly backward part of Germany.

Inevitably the Black Forest first rose to commercial prominence for its timber, and forestry naturally spawned woodwork – giving farmers something to do in the winter – and so the famous cuckoo-clock industry, the associated precision engineering, and the manufacture of musical instruments followed. All these continue to provide jobs, though the regional mainstay is now tourism, which continues year-round thanks to skiing and spa facilities. So you won’t find yourself alone exploring this attractive region, but escaping the crowds at the various hotspots is easy, particularly if you’re keen to explore on foot or by bike.

Relative to its fame, the Black Forest region is not terribly big – about 150km long and maybe 50km wide – and so easily explored by car in just a few days, though of course that rather misses the chance to drop down a gear in one of Germany’s most treasured regions where good scenery is matched by many time-honoured traditions.

Dozens of attractive slow-paced small towns and villages make touring a delight, but perhaps the best way to explore is to base yourself in one of the two largest towns and strike out from there. The most genteel base is Baden-Baden , a grand old nineteenth-century spa town in the north that specializes in dignified recuperation and pampering.

Bad Wildbad, is another smaller, less expensive alternative in the Northern Black Forest , which is otherwise known for its attractive marked drives, particularly the scenic Schwarzwaldhochstrasse , or the Badische Weinstrasse , which travels the range’s foothills through wine country. Both drives can be used to access the attractive Kinzig Valley which, along with the adjoining Gutach Valley , is considered the most quintessential and traditional Black Forest area. South of here, the attractive and upbeat university town of Freiburg dominates. Exploring its usually sun-soaked narrow streets is fun, but its main attraction is as a handy base from which to explore the entire Southern Black Forest . Deep valleys are flanked by rounded peaks like the Feldberg that tops out at 1493m, and include many minor ski and lake resorts.

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The smart and dignified grande dame of German spas, BADEN-BADEN lies cradled in the palm of idyllic and gentle wooded hills, 42km south of Karlsruhe. In the nineteenth century this was the St Tropez of high society and something of this era’s privilege survives in the dusty elegance of its villas, hotels and boutiques and in the manicured gardens where well-groomed socialites promenade. The absence of any heavyweight sights, moreover, helps make it a near perfect setting for a recuperative weekend.

Brief history

Baden margraves built today’s thermal baths in 1810 around the same springs that once lured Roman bathers – in particular Emperor Caracalla – nearly two millennia earlier. The baths were a hit in nineteenth-century Germany, so architect Friedrich Weinbrenner designed a complementary Neoclassical spa quarter. Some thirty years later, dapper Parisian impresario Jacques Bénazet added a casino, catapulting Baden-Baden to an elite playground that lured an international who’s-who to play, promenade and soothe their rheumatic joints: Tolstoy, Strauss, Queen Victoria, Kaiser Wilhelm I, Dostoyevsky, Bismarck, Tchaikovsky, Brahms and the Vanderbilts all visited. More recent visitors have included Bill Clinton, Barack Obama and Victoria Beckham. Mark Twain came too, but had mixed feelings, describing it as “an inane town, filled with sham and petty fraud and snobbery”. The town emerged unscathed from World War II and now effortlessly blends its halcyon days with modern-day pampering.

The high life: hot-air ballooning in Baden-Baden

As a premier magnet for the well-heeled, it’s maybe no surprise that Baden-Baden has Europe’s largest fleet of hot-air balloons. So if you’ve struck it lucky at the casino, you might like to splurge on a two-hour champagne breakfast flight along the Rhine Valley between the Black Forest and the Vosges for €253 per person with Ballooning 2000 (07223 600 02, ballooning2000.de ).

When to choose your hat carefully

Baden-Baden’s social highlight of the year is the August Iffezheim races , Germany’s Ascot, which has been going strong since 1858 and encompasses two events: the Frühjahrsmeeting over the last week of May; and the grander Grosse Woche in the last week in August, when the country’s elite dress to the nines and don flamboyant hats.

The Kinzig and Gutach valleys are quintessential Black Forest landscapes; they’re also the birthplace of many of its most eccentric folk costumes, and cuckoo clocks are sold here by the tonne. From Baden-Baden the region is most attractively accessed along the twisty and scenic Schwarzwaldhochstrasse , which leads to the northeastern end of the steep-sided and densely forested Kinzig Valley , the horseshoe-shaped hub of the Black Forest’s largest valley system, dotted with a series of picturesque small towns. Particularly appealing are the monastery and brewery town of Alpirsbach , and the quaint gathering of half-timbered houses at Schiltach . For generations this remote valley made its money logging and farming, and its modest and fairly sleepy communities celebrate this heritage with various evocative museums, including the open-air Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum , one of the region’s premier sights, just up the feeder valley of the River Gutach . This small stream is responsible for the broad 25km-long Gutach Valley, famous for its Bollenhut , a black hat with red pompoms worn as a traditional folk costume by women and reproduced in tourist literature throughout the region. Close to the head of the valley lies Triberg , the Black Forest’s most touristy town, packed with cuckoo-clock shops and coach parties and probably worth avoiding unless you’re after a chirping time-piece – in which case you’ll certainly want to visit the good, nearby clock museum at Furtwangen too.

The Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum

Just over 1km south of the Gutach’s confluence with the Kinzig lies the Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum , an open-air museum focused on an old farm – the Vogtsbauernhof – that has been here since 1570. Its huge roof is typical of the local traditional building style and the sort of place that caused Jerome K. Jerome to comment: “The great charm about a Black Forest house is its sociability: the cows are in the next room, the horses are upstairs, the geese and ducks in the kitchen, while the pigs, children and chickens live all over the place.”

The 26 other buildings in the complex – which include a sawmill, granary, bakery, distillery, smithy and chapel – have been moved here from elsewhere to create a rather phoney little village. But great effort has gone into authentically furnishing them all and costumed guides doing craft demonstrations help bring the place alive and broaden the appeal.

From where it meets the Kinzig Valley, the Gutach Valley progressively narrows then climbs to a point some 1000m above sea level after 20km, where the air is so pure it once made the town of TRIBERG a health resort. But this was long ago, and today the town is obsessed with only one thing: the cuckoo clock. Thousands are on sale here and the tourist traffic the industry spawns can be nightmarish; but if you embrace the kitsch and are in the market for a clock, it can be fun.

The long, thin Marktplatz that follows the main road through town is its natural focus, with a large pilgrimage church, or Wallfahrtskirche, looming over it decked out in florid Baroque. But the busiest end of town is uphill from here at a bend in the main road, where clock shops are squeezed together. They’re an attraction in themselves (see The cuckoo clock), and certainly as well visited as the town’s two other main attractions nearby.

Though plenty of small towns and villages dot the Northern Black Forest, most are of little specific interest, though Bad Wildbad does offer an alternative spa town to Baden-Baden. Instead this region is best known for its scenic drives, including the Badische Weinstrasse , which travels through the strip of vineyards that line the Rhine Valley and is home to Europa-Park , Germany’s largest amusement-park. Just east, above the valley, another waymarked drive, the Schwarzwaldhochstrasse is considered the classic scenic drive in the Black Forest.

Europa-Park

Though not that well-known beyond Germany’s borders, the Europa-Park is one of Europe’s premier theme-parks and a sure-fire kid-pleaser, with about fifty rides in an area around the size of eighty football pitches and set amid a number of villages themed by European country. Located 35km north of Frieburg near the village of Rust, it’s particularly convenient for drivers heading between Strasbourg or Karlsruhe and the Swiss Alps.

The Badische Weinstrasse

The Badische Weinstrasse (Badische Wine Road), a 160km-long waymarked route that winds through the foothills of the Black Forest, cuts through vineyards and past ruined castles on its way from Baden-Baden to Freiburg. It’s an attractive alternative to the motorway corridor along the Rhine Valley for north- or south-bound travellers with time on their hands, and particularly those with an interest in sampling and buying fine wines.

The tiny town of Durbach , some 50km south of Baden-Baden along the Badische Weinstrasse , amid rolling vineyards and overlooked by the impressive Schloss Staufenberg , is a perfect stop and of particular interest to wine lovers for its excellent Durbacher Winzergenossenschaft (wine co-operative; Mon–Fri 8am–noon, Sat 9am–12.30pm), a shop with a great selection of distinguished and well-priced local wines that’s liberal with its samples. It’s signposted and just off the main road at the centre of Durbach.

The Schwarzwaldhochstrasse

There are various routes from Baden-Baden into the heart of the Black Forest, but the most attractive is probably the magnificent Schwarzwaldhochstrasse – the Black Forest Highway or B500 – which climbs from Baden-Baden through an idyllic combination of pines and meadows, valleys and peaks to Freudenstadt. The route may only be 60km long but it’s worth taking about half a day over the drive, allowing for time to break the journey at the various car parks, viewpoints and belvederes which dot the route to take in fine views of the Upper Rhine Valley and France’s Vosges. Allow time too for a couple of short worthwhile hikes, particularly the easy 1.5km loop around the touristy but pretty Mummelsee and a hike from the Allerheiligen monastery – signposted off the B500 6km to the south. From this impressive ruin of a Gothic Premonstratensian abbey, signs point along a path to an attractive waterfall a twenty-minute walk south.

South of Freiburg the Southern Black Forest gradually rises into a series of rounded and densely forested mountains that begins with the Schauinsland peak and includes the ski resorts of Todtnau and the Feldberg , the highest peak in the area. Only smaller settlements dot their slopes or huddle at the valley bottoms. The more densely wooded hills just south of here are also thinly populated, with the modest lakeside resort towns of Titisee , Schluchsee and small spa resort of St Blasien among the few exceptions. To the east of the area on the fringes of the Black Forest lies the Wutachschlucht , a deep overgrown gorge that’s popular for hiking; while to the west, where the land flattens around the Rhine and the French border, the prim spa-town of Badenweiler is a draw, as is the idyllic cluster of vineyard-draped hills called the Kaiserstuhl , sticking out in what’s an otherwise clear run up to the impressive Vosges mountains on the horizon.

At 1493m the Feldberg is the Black Forest’s highest summit, but it’s hardly a soaring peak. Instead its huge bulk rears into a bald, rather flat, treeless dome. Nevertheless, the area is protected as a nature reserve where wild flowers flourish as do unusual fauna like mountain hens and goat-like chamois. The scattered presence of traditional Black Forest farmhouses and the occasional alpine hut add to the charm. But most villages in the area exist to provide for the major regional downhill-skiing centre . The most convenient is the slope-side village of FELDBERG , little more than a group of roadside houses on a 1234m-high pass, but given its general lack of services and nightlife you might prefer to stay in the more well-rounded village of Altglashütten, in the valley 8km away.

Haus der Natur

In summer the main focus on the Feldberg is on the Haus der Natur visitor centre, which has various displays on natural history in German and is the start point for various hikes including the Feldberg-Steig , a highly recommended 12km loop that links five alpine huts around the upper reaches of the Feldberg. Much of it passes over open ground, offering open vistas which many other Black Forest hikes lack. In winter a good portion of this and other local trails form popular cross-country skiing routes.

Feldbergbahn

A short walk from the Haus der Natur lies the Feldbergbahn which, in winter, is part of a network of 28 ski lifts and covered by a day-pass. In summer it offers the chance of great views over the Alps without any legwork.

The Wutachschlucht

On the southeastern fringes of the Black Forest and hidden from view in the rolling landscape of farms and pastures lies the 33km-long Wutachschlucht , a deep gorge that’s been fed and shaped by the waters of the Titisee. The thickly forested and overgrown chasm with its stretches of craggy cliffs, churning waters and unspoilt, ancient forests has become a popular hike. Given that the walk is too long to do in a day, local buses operate to pick up and drop off hikers along the gorge route for a flat rate of €3 per day.

Several communities act as gateways to the valley, with the most practical being Löffingen – which is on the railway network (from Freiburg hourly; 1hr) – to the north of the Wutachschlucht and Bonndorf – an easy bus ride from Schluchsee – to the south. A popular quick taster of the canyon landscape is the feeder valley of the Lotenbachklamm, along which an easy and attractive hour-long, round-trip walk runs to the Schattenmühle , an old watermill and inn in the Wutach Valley. The Shattenmühle is also the ideal place to start a hike of the most stunning stretch of the Wutachschlucht. Take bus #7259 from Löffingen or #7344 from Bonndorf, to the Schattenmühle , or park there, then walk five hours east along the gorge to Wutachmühle, and take bus #7344 back to the start (9am–6pm hourly; 25min) or to Bonndorf.

The quiet little mountain town of TODTNAU , 32km southeast of Freiburg and 25km beyond the Schauinslandbahn, bustles with activity in winter when it becomes a gateway to a network of ski lifts around the Feldberg.

A ski lift up the Hasenhorn carries toboggans in winter and continues to attract a steady trickle of visitors in summer thanks to the presence of a 2.9km roller-coaster-cum-bobsleigh track and a couple of excellent downhill mountain-bike trails aimed at experienced riders who can buy or rent any equipment they need at the base-station shop.

Aside from skiing, Todtnau’s other great draw is a 97m-tall waterfall that cascades over several craggy rocks on the opposite (northern) side of the valley. To get there from town hike the signposted 2km trail from the church at the centre of Todtnau, or simply follow the much shorter trail from the car park on the hairpin of the L126 en route to Freiburg and Kirchzarten. The falls freeze in the winter to magical effect, but beware the slippery trails.

The origins of the cuckoo clock are uncertain. Though the first known description comes from Saxony in the mid-sixteenth century, it’s thought they were probably first made in Bohemia. Certainly it was only about a hundred years later – in the 1730s – that cuckoo clocks began to be made in the Black Forest, with Schönwald near Triberg being the site of the earliest workshops.

The quality of the craftsmanship and engineering quickly captured the imagination and the European market, and the cuckoo clock has roosted here ever since. Local shops sell a bewildering array, but as the over-eager shop assistants will inform you, it all boils down to three designs – the chalet , the hunting theme and the simple carved cuckoo . The technology in each is much the same, clocks with small pine cones dangling below them require daily winding while those with larger cones need only weekly attention.

There’s more labour-saving on hand, thanks to the digital revolution which hasn’t been allowed to bypass this traditional craft: some models are battery- and quartz-driven, and play recordings of an actual cuckoo on the hour; others are even light sensitive so both you and the bird can get some sleep. Prices vary according to the size of the clock. Good-sized clocks can be bought for under €100, but for a real talking-piece you’ll need to pay almost twice that – and some creations fetch thousands. The choice is overwhelming, competition keen and almost all shops offer shipping services. See also the Deutsches Uhrenmuseum.

One shop you might want to visit Uhren-Park (Schonachbach 27; uhren-park.de) on the main road 2.7km south of Triberg, which charges a €1.50 fee to see what it claims is the largest cuckoo clock in the world – though there’s a rival claimant on the other side of town. Easter to Oct Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 10am–6pm; Nov to Easter Mon–Sat 9am–5.30pm, Sun 11am–5pm.

Top image: The Black Forest, Schwarzwald, Germany © Funny Solution Studio/Shutterstock

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Winter's morning in the Hoellental Train, Black Forest

A Black Forest fairytale: riding Germany’s ‘hell valley’ railway in winter

The Höllentalbahn is a spectacular line through south-west Germany’s forests and magical towns. Enchanting stop-offs en route include gothic Freiburg and pretty Titisee lake

I n the tucked away Black Forest town of Donaueschingen, the mighty River Danube begins. It rises as a clear, three metre-deep wellspring in the town centre, encircled by a stone basin sculpted with zodiac symbols. From there, the Danube – Donau in German – flows full tilt onwards for 1,771 miles to its mouth on the Black Sea, passing through the great cities of Vienna, Budapest and Belgrade.

There’s so much poetry in that journey from dark woodland to dark water. But while my trip started at this blessed pool, where the Danube begins its course east, I was heading in the opposite direction – into a part of Germany’s south-west with which I was unfamiliar.

Though the Black Forest is feted for its wild spaces, sense of remoteness and sweeping mountains – green in summer, top to bottom with snow-white thickets in the colder months – the region is easy to traverse year-round by boot, bike and Deutsche Bahn national rail. That’s good news for those who love discovering a new place by train, because the most compelling railway line here – the Höllentalbahn – begins in Donaueschingen, before rising 50 miles later in Freiburg, on the Black Forest’s western fringe. One of the steepest routes in the country, the Höllentalbahn has an equally gripping translation: the Hell Valley Railway. And I knew I was going to love it.

Source of the Danube in Donaueschingen.

It’s a good time for rail travel in Germany. Last summer, Deutsche Bahn launched a monthly subscription ticket for nationwide travel on local and regional routes for €49 , while super saver fares for short distances were priced at €9.90 – and this is set to continue. Car emissions charges have since been increased and passenger numbers on local services have shot up by a quarter, according to Deutsche Bahn. That sense of sustainable value was also apparent on the Höllentalbahn. My entire ride cost €16, but I broke up the 90-minute journey with multiple stops along the way.

Before I boarded, there was time to discover more of Donaueschingen. From the train station, I followed the road to Haus Fürstenberg , walking in the footsteps of the last emperor of Germany, Wilhelm II, a regular visitor to the princely residence. The grounds are filled with oak and birch, and, beyond the tree line, the palace rises like a Loire Valley chateau, its yellow facade crested with a top-hat dome. Inside, there is a stately but fun museum, home to a gilded travelling potty once owned by Napoleon.

Next door, taking over several town blocks, is Fürstenberg Brauerei , a baroque palace of a brewery from the 18th century . It was a touch too early for a pilsner, but Kaiser Wilhelm II loved it so much, the beer became his majesty’s official beverage.

My journey on the Höllentalbahn began shortly after, and following a quick transition from factories to farmland, the railway was soon in the thick of the Black Forest. To forge a straight route through the undulating highlands was impossible in 1901, when the line was completed, so the Höllentalbahn ducks and weaves like a heavyweight boxer. Slow at first, then landing punches as it passes several worthy stops.

Titisee lake at dusk.

The first of these is Titisee, a glacial lake from which, according to legend, newborn babies entered the world. Nowadays, it’s a popular escape for spa tourism from spring to autumn, when visitors come to get their skin buffed baby pink. But as the darkening days segue into the snows of winter, Titisee comes into its own. The lake basin takes time to freeze, but when it does, the style and pace of life on the water accelerate, from leisurely boat cruises that run until late October to ice skating at Christmas and new year, when conditions are just right.

The atmosphere on the lakefront is fiesta-like, with timber-framed cuckoo clock shops, pub landlords proffering foamy steins, and restaurant menus filled with the trappings of the season.

With the lake yet to freeze, I made do with a shoreline stroll, then settled in at Seehotel Wiesler hotel. As I sat on the terrace facing the water, the owner’s son-in-law, Fabian Isele, stopped by to offer wine and local wisdom.

“The best thing to learn about the Black Forest is, nature rules,” he told me. “ Auerhahn [western capercaillie] live on Feldberg mountain. Wolves have returned, just like in a Grimm’s fairytale. So much is still untouched by our hands.”

Walkers in Hinterzarten.

Reverence for the forest and the creatures within was also apparent the next day in neighbouring Hinterzarten, a short hop away on the train. The highest point on the Höllentalbahn (885m), Hinterzarten is the sort of village best suited to winter. Chimney smoke swirled from old-fashioned farmsteads. Byres stood ready with long-hipped roofs to withstand the wind and snow.

A short walk from the train station, along a broad farm track, lies Ospelehof , one of the oldest steadings in these woods. Martin Braun is a wiry, fourth-generation farmer, dressed in lederhosen, who looks after a butchery, cheese shop, guesthouse and restaurant offering farm tours and raclette feasts in the dairy beneath his house.

The restaurant’s warm basement setting offered respite from the cold and dry chill. Next to a copper kettle for churning out cheese, log benches sported woollen fleeces, and walls were draped with cow hides and framed portraits of Martin’s herd of Highland cattle. “I’ve always been a fan, but the topography is a challenge for them – and for me,” he said. “This is a world of forests, after all.” Together, we ate a platter of cheese intense with garlic from the surrounding wild lands, and claret-red beef salami and ham produced in Martin’s barn smokery. It was terrific.

Munsterplatz Square in Freiburg.

The most memorable part of the journey arrived that same afternoon, when the rail line crossed a landscape of banded hills scythed by gorges and bridges. From Hinterzarten’s saddle, the train nosedived past waterfall hollows, sweeping us over the stone arches of the Ravenna viaduct, with views over the narrow, deepening Höllental valley – hell, as early German visitors once called it, or Val d’enfer to the French. Contrary to this sense of moving into the Underworld, we hadn’t tumbled out of heaven or Earth. We’d merely plunged 400m.

As the sun started to fade, the Höllentalbahn began its final descent through tunnels and twilight-lit trees, making its final stop at Freiburg station on the edge of the Black Forest. Passengers lurched off into the twinkling lights of the Altstadt, the old town, beneath gothic spires and stone gargoyles, and I happily joined the throng on showpiece Münsterplatz, or Minster Square, enjoying a pilsner and plate of roast goose and dumplings – a Black Forest dream. For many new arrivals, Freiburg is a reverie of a town, and, at this magical time of day, the culmination of my rail journey felt – almost – like a fairytale ending.

Trip provided by Visit Germany . Double rooms at Seehotel Wiesler in Titisee from € 98 B&B and Park Hotel Post in Freiburg from € 149 B&B . Tickets for the Höllentalbahn can be bought online ( bahn.de ). Trains operated by Eurostar , TGV Lyria and Deutsche Bahn connect Donaueschingen and Freiburg to London in under seven hours (from £72, each way) .

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