mk7 cruise control retrofit

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Adaptive Cruise Control retrofit – ACC on MQB

The latest generation of compact cars from Volkswagen-Audi Group offered quite some interesting driver’s assistant features.After having Lane Assist camera retrofitted , I came up with an idea of having Adaptive Cruise Control on my MY2013 Golf MK7. ACC system is based on Bosch radar which works thanks to the Doppler Effect and waves reflection.

This tutorial will be based on my VW Golf MK7 with manual gearbox, A5 Front Camera and ORIS OEM trailer control module. It works in speed range of 20 do 210km/h. If you are planning to use it in DSG equipped car you will get also Stop-to-Follow functionality which provides stopping capability and moving after car was stopped.

Needed parts

Front bumper guard with mount for the radar – 5G0 807 109 H
Hanger for ACC radar – 5Q0 907 461 A
ACC radar plug – 4F0 972 708
Plastic cover for the radar – 5G0 907 225 9B9 – 15,42 zł brutto w ASO
Radar LRR3 Bosch (up to 210km/h 5Q0 907 541 D, F, H, P or G up to 160km/h).
You need to check rear ABS sensors – has to be bidirectional WHT003864A
Workshop with capability of Component Protection removal (probably your dealer can do it)
Steering wheel dedicated to ACC (it’s also possible just to replace left buttons)
Harness (it’s easy to do it by yourself, 4 up to 6 wires).
Car has to be equipped with Gateway High – with Extended Can

Luckly enough Golf MK7 has Cruise Control buttons on the steering wheel. You need to replace left buttons or the whole wheel – depends on the costs:

Few words about radars

During preparation of this article I found out a lot of information noise in this topic across the internet. I’d like to shed some light to make it easy to but proper parts, there are two main types of radars which you can find on MQB platform:

LRR – Long Range Radar – (up to 250m, up to210km/h) – round shape.

MRR Gen1 – Middle Range Radar – (up to 160m, up to 160km/h or up to 210km/h in conjunction Lane Assist camera ) – flat shape.

MRR Gen2, Gen3 – Middle Range Radar – modern flat shape radars, capable of Pedestrian protection, predictive ACC, best on market.

LRR radars were mounted on early released Golf MK7 and Skoda Octavia 3 (version G, with software limitation up to 160km/h). This type of a radar is more sensitive and more precise then the MRR but it’s also much more expensive – over 900 euro. Audi A3 is still factory equipped with LRR radar as a premium segment representative. Since the middle 2013 VW started mountingt MRR radars in order to cost cuts (price of a brand new MRR unit is around 400 euros). MRR radars has shorter range and sensitivity, in order to provide 210km/h range they need to be used with A5 Front Camera.

To be more precise, you can find three types of radars:

Radar LRR – round – has only Component Protection
Radar MRRPlus – flat – has Component Protection and SWaP/FEC license
Radar MRREvo – flat – has Component Protection and SWaP/FEC license

Component Protection is fairly easy to unlock. It requires visit to your local dealer with legally bought radar and some small payment (around 50-100 euro in Poland). MRR radars has the SWaP/FEC license mechanism and it’s fairly impossible to retrofit it in an easy way. are a bit harder to retrofit.

Sum up: If you are on budget, you should buy round LRR radar. I was using 5Q0 907 541 P on my Golf MK7.

If you want best functionality, go for MRREvo Gen3.

I found some misleading information on the internet, that you need to somehow hack or modify firmware/bootloader of the radar in order to install it on your device. It’s absolute lie, the only thing is Component Protection and proper coding.

You need to change the front bumper amplifier! If you’ll buy used radar it will be factory calibrated on a car. In order to keep this calibration you have to mount in in the same exact position (there is a margin of 0.08* degree). Price of amplifier with radar mount is almost the same as regular one, you can still sell the old one and get the money back.

You will need to remove the bumper in order to change the amplifier. There are 4 screws on each side, 2 screws holding the grill from the top and 7 screws on the bottom. Fell free to check some bumper removal video available on YouTube for example this one.

Amplifier is mounted using 8 screws and 4 screws (2 on each side) which are attached to the intercooler. You don’t need to remove headlight to do it.

Harness should be prepared based on the diagram:

Pin 1 – Ground Pin 2 – Can Extended HIGH Pin 3 – Can Extended LOW Pin 4 – empty Pin 5 – Camera A5 – Lane Assist – Can HIGH – Pin 7 Pin 6 – Camera A5 – Lane Assist – Can LOW – Pin 1 Pin 7 – empty Pin 8 – +12V Terminal 15 – from the cabin fuse box

Length of the cables should be measured on the car. Two of the cables to the Can Extendes should be routed to TIUL coupling point, additional pair of can cables sould go from the radar to the A5 Front Camera (if you have one).

It’s REALLY important to use power from fuse box in the cabin not the engine bay! At the beginning I’ve used the fuse box in the engine bay and I’ve felt in constant loop of errors. I wasn’t able to start the system as module 13- ACC Radar was constantly getting error code – radar separated. Probably the current is delivered with a small delay.

01 – Engine 149 – Check Coding of ECUs on Powertrain Data Bus P1647 00 [175] – –

13 – Auto Dist. Reg 1043 — Automatic Distance Control B10E7 F0 [047] — Disconnected

After successful radar installation you need to do the coding – using VCDS, ODIS or VCP. It’s good to follow XaGiCo Dossier guide, I’ll provide few of my own comments :

01 – Engine – for manual gearbox you need to tick ACC – PR-8T5 – for DSG gearbox you need to set ACC with Front Assist (PR-8T3, PR-8T8)
03 – ABS (coding for 29 bit) you ned to edit bit 24: – for manual gearbox you need set: 14 (or 16) – for manual gearbox and Lane Assist you need to set F4 – for DSG gearbox you need to set F8
09 – Gateway – Add 13 – Auto Dist. Reg on the installation list – Under Adaptation change steering wheel type to ACC
17 – Instrument – On the cluster set all the ticks for Front Assist and Distance Regulation
5F – Radio – Set all the ticks for Front Assist, ACC and PreCrash
A5 – Front Camera – Set presence of ACC

The last module that need to be coded is the Radar itself. Here is my coding for the unit:

Address 13: Auto Dist. Reg (J428) Labels:| 5Q0-907-567.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 907 567 P HW: 5Q0 907 567 P Component: ACC3 H10 0100 Coding: 00000100FE030B

Clear all the DTC error and start using your newly equipped Adaptive Cruise Control.

May thanks to guys Trust2k , downtime and Eldar for all the help and knowledge.

adaptive cruise control
front assist

58 Comments

Hello, I will also perform this retrofit on my Golf, I am currently sourcing parts.

Can you explain how to replace steering wheels buttons?

You need to pray whole trim from the steering wheel and then unscrew the buttons,

I feel I need to add some better explanation to this 🙂 I removed the buttons yesterday so now I know better.

first of all, be aware that almost certainly you will break some pegs in the steering wheel trim. that thing is simply not meant to be removed. I was as gentle as I could but I broke two, fortunately the two middle top. I was able to glue them back with 2-component glue for plastic, and I also reinforced all the others. should be good because when I put the trim back, I will not touch it ever again.

second, it’s better that we point out that buttons are different between regular and Sport steering wheel. I surely know because I bought the wrong ones 🙁 regular buttons are 5G0 959 442 K and Sport buttons are 5G0 959 442 N.

all the rest was pretty straight forward to me, I had already removed bumper when I retrofitted Park Assist. I also had spare wires on hold that I pulled when I started all retrofits.

I have not plugged in the radar yet, I have to wait for CP removal on monday. I hope I do not need calibration. will let you know for sure.

Hi, I am planning to retrofit Lane change assist in Audi A3 8V, Is Calibration required for Used Lane Change Assist Radar?

thanks for the info.a friend already told me that the first radars did not have swap I did not believe it, now after seeing you, I already have a radar at home waiting for the rest of the pieces to arrive, everything works perfect, right?

Yep, everythings works fine since the installation.

ok,very thanks.

Adaptive cruise control + front assist works. I do not understand why on the internet they talk about that only hacked works. Thank you so much for everything.

I was also very skeptical about the round radar not having FeC and the final confirmation was this blog.

can you guys both confirm you did NOT need calibration?

Hi, I’m waiting for the buttons on the steering wheel to arrive. in 10/15 days I receive it and I can tell you, but if it does not vary 0.08 it is not necessary to calibrate.

I just finished activation and coding, and went for a test drive.

100 % FUNCTIONAL !!!

NO calibration needed 🙂

Cool, good to hear that. You went for 210km/h version?

I’m looking forward to my pieces.

I have letter G that is up to 160km.

I give it to a friend and I can not complain

Ciao Davide, lo sblocco componenti l’hai fatto in Service Volkswagen ? Avevi già la centralina Gateway High o hai sostiuito anche quella ?

everything working perfect !!

Does it work if I do not have Cruise Control but I have Highline Gateway which supports radar and spring column?

Hello, thanks for the great guide!

I have a question about the wiring harness. I do not know where to plug in Pin 2 and Pin 3, CAN EXTENDED HIGH and CAN EXTENDED LOW.

I found the TIUL coupler but there are several pins and connections there. Can anyone please explain?

Great Stuff, How can I get in touch with trust2k?

Im also traying to retrofit acc on my2015 golf 7 – my car cam from factory with FRONT ASSIST already. So i did ask VCP to make parameterisation to enable ACC on my radar unit 5Q0 907 572 D. But after seeing XaGiCo Dossier guide i notice he aslo use ODIS engennering to enable ACC on can adress 19…. Is tis step necessary or you can make coding in VCDS and voila ACC is working?

Hello, do you think it should work with a Seat Leon 5F ? i still have a MRR radar on it, is the replacement with a LRR radar is just plug and play or do i have to change the wires ? Thank you for this post, very interresting 🙂

i have a VW Passat CC V6 4WD 2014. is it possible to retrofit ACC to this car?

Hello Does the LRR with front camera support Traffic Jam Assist? (This means the Lane assist could be activated even in lower speed)

I have a Golf 7 2013 model with ACC as standard, sensor round type 5Q0 907 541 G. The sensor is broken. Do you know if I have to use round type sensor, or can I retrofit flat type? And can I also use round type with other part numbers?

Looking on RADAR Harness—>there is also wind shield camera connection, right ? Is mandatory to have camera ? ACC functionality is working also without camera ? Can I mount also RADAR in VW front logo ?

MRR radars has the SWaP/FEC license mechanism and it’s fairly impossible to retrofit it in an easy way. are a bit harder to retrofit.

Hoe do i get the mrr working?

Hi, maybe you have discord or something i would like to get more information about cabling what cables and where did you bought them

Are you guys sure that calibration isnt needed? Do you just install it and it works?

I Find that hard to believe its that easy.

Do you know if this can be performed on a JETTA 2019 SE ? (it came without ACC, but the wheel button’s are there already.. when I press the car gives a message “Function unavaible” or something like it)

Hello I have a Passat B8 highline with Front Assist but without ACC. Do you know if I will buy the buttons on the steering wheel, will the ACC work? Or I’ll need something else. Thanks

Great job! Just build in side assist in my A3 8V. This will be my new project. Did you cut your grill or replaced it? Thanks for your reply.

Will it need calibration? And if so, how can i do it on my own ?

Golf 7 before facelift

Thanks for the detailed info, verys useful specially for the LRR. I am looking to retrofit LRR to my Skoda Karoq MY19 just for automatic braking. Any advice on parts and cables needed along with coding?

It should go the same as described here for MRR, yet you will need to clone/activate FEC/SWaP licence.

Wasn’t the LRR easier, without FEC license or I misunderstood it with MRR ?

I have all the equipment necessary to get ACC up to 210 km/h.Though, right now it is set to 160 km/h. Is it possible to change this with VCDS? Golf 7 2013 with LRR and lane assist.

I am looking to retrofit this to a 2019 Audi A3, will any round radar be suitable (and only need component protection removing) or do I need to stick to the part numbers in your above post?

I’m trying to clear if i can retrofit my Golf TSi DSG with VIN: WVWZZZAUZFW189030 My ABS Pump partno is 3Q0907379F I’m not clear if this ABS pump supports ACC, Follow-to-Go, Emergency Break (City Break)

I have a Skoda Karoq , Recently i installed the Levers for acc into the steering wheel , and i had to code the front radar for ACC

A coder abroad , coded my car remotly with ODIS, He flashed the Front radar 13 did some adaptations. And ACC works just fine , tested and is perfect.

BUT i scanned the car and i saw Front Radar 13 Error 762560 – Component Protection U1114 00 [009] – GFA key

He said that the job is done he got nothing else to do

Can you share how much did you pay for the coding?

Hi Piotr, I’ve bought 5q0907541 L radar, and by ETKA P is a replacement for L radar, it was installed only on Audi A3 from the factory as P radar you’ve installed. Question: How you parametrized your radar? It was new or used? Because mine was new, and there is no parametrization inside, but I can’t upload the file via ODIS-e for L radar: it shows an error.

I had used radar with parametrisation already inside, maybe try via VCP?

I do not have a VCP unfortunately, original is too expensive for me, I’m not sure if with a Chinese clone I will be able to upload parametrization. Have you tried parametrization with a Chinese clone? I’m pretty sure that the error which ODIS are returning is ODIS-E validation – because the file is 100% correct and is extracted from online session

Hi, thanks for this tutorial. I am trying to login my radar 5q0907572g but unfortunately the component reject my code. if any one have Idea how do it?

what error you get?

Hi there Thank you very much for the detailed guidance. Can radar 5q0 907 541 L be used for retrofitting on Vw golf WVWZZZAUZGW090700, how with software, is it installed in the new radar and it is ready for coding with vcds? I am considering this: https://allegro.pl/oferta/vw-golf-7-radar-5q0907541l-nowy-acc-9915873274 Sincerely, Lars

It will work, but you’ll have to do parametrisation as it’s brand new – that requires Vag Can Pro or proper data set for ODIS. If you’ll go with preowned from Golf you’ll only need to remove Component Protection and coding.

Hi Piotr Thanks for reply. If the used radar 5Q0 907 541 H comes from an A3 / S3 can it be used after the component protection has been removed and coding has been performed as it came from a golf 7?

A5 camera has no component protection. It can be used, but parametrisation will be required

Dear mqb specialist

You are my last hope for help with my Volkswagen Polo problem. I bought this car a few months ago under the assumption that it would have adaptive cruise control. The polo is from the year 2019 highline version and has front assist incl. City-ANB without ACC as standard. I am not a specialist myself, but I strongly suspect that most components to add Adaptive cruise control afterwards are present. If I send you a list with the PR codes, it is then possible for you to see if it is possible to retrofit the adaptive cruise control. I have already had contact with the factory and the dealer here in the Netherlands, but they are not willing or unable to help me. Hopefully you can do something for me or help me get it right myself. I would like to hear from you in advance thanks for your help and effort.

Sincerely Ron

I’m having trouble rebuilding my ACC, my car was accident damaged but had ACC from factory.

I’m trying to put the bits back together and can’t find a wiring diagram for my front acc… where did you get yours from?

As the fec code is not available on your vin, the dealer cannot upload the fec to the radar.

Find a good website about fec upload /pacc and youll find your answers. long story short:

tools: odis e and s and pacc files.

Need radar in CP (possble with odis s, remove cp manually, as it is already removed… During process, remove odis dongle during process will trigger cp. flash with x firmware remove cp (jup again, but now finish the process) upload swap code (read pacc file carefuly) Code replace sw buttons for acc ones..

Hi good evening, I need to code Byte 24 for DSG and Lane Assist do you have the correct code by any chance? F8 is giving me errors as it is looking for ACC that I don’t have at the moment. My actual ABS byte 24 is 00 Best regards Daniele

Thanks for tutorial!

I have a VW EGOLF 2019 with Front Assist but without ACC and CCS. If I will buy the buttons on the steering wheel and make some coding, will the ACC work? Thanks

Bonjour, quel serait le codage pour une rs3 8v2 de 2018 avec front assit ? Merci par avance de votre retour. Cordialement.

Hi, is A5 camera required for pedestrian protection, or does a newer radar suffice? Thanks

03. ABS CODING: First you need to check what coding you have. You can have: 29bit or 30bit coding in ABS Switching from WHT003864 to WHT003864A – will give you an error WHT003864 – one directional WHT003864A – bi-directional You need to change byte:

03 – ABS (coding for 30 bit) you need to edit bit 25: – for manual gearbox you need set: 14 (or 16) – for manual gearbox and Lane Assist you need to set F4 – for DSG gearbox you need to set F8

03 – ABS (coding for 30 bit) you need to edit bit 27: 00: Standard Wheel Speed Sensor 50: Bi-directional Wheel Speed Sensor ( Multi-Link Suspension) F0: Bi-directional Wheel Speed Sensor ( Torsion Bar Rear Suspension ) Here you need to check what type or rear suspension you have and type correct coding 50 or F0

03 – ABS (coding for 29 bit) you need to edit bit 24: – for manual gearbox you need set: 14 (or 16) – for manual gearbox and Lane Assist you need to set F4 – for DSG gearbox you need to set F8

03 – ABS (coding for 29 bit) you need to edit bit 24: 00: Standard Wheel Speed Sensor 50: Bi-directional Wheel Speed Sensor ( Multi-Link Suspension) F0: Bi-directional Wheel Speed Sensor ( Torsion Bar Rear Suspension ) Here you need to check what type or rear suspension you have and type correct coding 50 or F0

SWAP/FEC I can help with SWaP codes and Transferring the unlock code for the SWaP function with ODIS Engineering. To generate SWaP codes you will need VCRN (Vehicle Component Registration Number). This code can be extracted from the measured values of block 13 + VIN number. You will also need to share what FEC codes are active.

2Q0907572 / 3QF_5QF907572 / 3Q0907572 / 5Q0907572

Retrofitting Adaptive Cruise Control to Mk7 (oh the fun you shall have!)

Add to quote
The car: 2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI, Highline (SEL) trim, that already had "Front Assist" (a radar sensor that would not work for this retrofit) installed in the front bumper below the license plate holder. So, no need to figure out installing hardware and wiring back to the interior.
LRR (round radar) - found for $150 on eBay (component protection will need to be removed by dealer; figure at least an hour for that, maybe 1.5hrs) (the mqb.pl buy has a good overview of the difference between the MRR that was in my car and the LRR I needed )
rear wheel ABS sensors (part#: WHT003864A) - ~$90ea for OEM; $15 from China)
ABS module (with 46pins) part # recommended to me was 3Q0 907 379 AB- similar price point of ~$150 (if you can get the wiring pigtail for the ABS module, GRAB THAT!)
Assuming not, a new 46-pin connector (part # 4M0 998 046) - $30
15 wires have to swap over; 12 of them are 0.5mm (three are actually 0.35mm, but you use the same repair wire) so you need 6 repair wires - part number 000 979 046E ($7each, or if you're in Canada, $30 each (?!!?) [*]Three of the wires moving over are larger (2 x 4.0mm and one 2.5mm), and you also need to fill an additional ground spot in the wiring harness, so you need a 4.0mm repair wire (000 979 308 E) - one end will be for the extra ground, the other will be to replace the female end of the 2.5mm wire; the third "large" wire (red/yellow) can simply be moved without alteration
Steering wheel with ACC buttons (I already had those as they came with a MFSW I'd purchased from Europe for the paddle shifters (Canadian models did not come with paddle shifters)
1.5-2.0L of brake fluid. Remember that the Mk7 specs the DOT4 "LV" (low viscosity). I went with OEM from dealer just to be sure I got the right stuff
Prevent LOTS of hydraulic fluid from oozing out: Set something to press the brake pedal (a 2x4 jammed between seat and pedal works), open the LR and LF bleed screws, press the brake pedal at least another 60mm, then close the LR and LF bleed screws; leave the brake pedal in that position (i.e., do not remove the 2x4 or whatever you have holding the pedal down)
Disconnect negative terminal of battery
Lift up the front end and take off the front wheels (you don't strictly need to, but it'll make life so much easier).
If you at all can, lift up the rear of the car, too, just to give yourself easier access to everything because...
On the TDI ...because the DPF blocks access out the top, you have to disconnect the front exhaust pipe, part of which involves undoing an exhaust clamp that's about ⅔ of the way to the back of the car.
Front exhaust pipe comes off fairly easily: Two 16mm nuts on that exhaust clamp; two 13mm bolts on the front exhaust hanger, one 5mm bolt that secures a T-bolt-type clamp which attaches the front exhaust pipe to the DPF outlet.
Slide the exhaust pipe back a bit. You need to do all of this because the DPF is blocking any chance of getting the ABS module out through the top of the engine
Cap all of the lines and plug all of the holes best you can; I used vacuum caps on the hydraulic lines and they seemed to do the trick
Wiggle, rotate, twist, push the ABS module down against the firewall. It fits, but it is tight. Then get under the car and pull it out through the exhaust tunnel beside the exhaust pipe; it won't come out from where the drive shaft inserts into the tranny
Same thing with getting the new one in there - start it from below, then grab from above.
If you thought it was a PITA getting the old ABS pump off the posts, it's even more fun getting the new one on (remember "do not bend the hydraulic lines" - again, let me know how you make out with that)
Once you're secure on the three posts, start inserting the hydraulic lines. Pro tip: Undo the right-front hydraulic line inside the wheel well; I fought for literally hours trying to get the hydraulic lines inserted squarely and not cross-threaded; then removed that line and within 20 minutes had all six lines snugged up
Start with the hydraulic lined nearest to the firewall. It is by far the most cumbersome to work with. DO NOT USE A WRENCH until you are absolutely 110% sure it is threaded straight. I was cross-threaded on that one line at least six times before I got it square
Once that line against the firewall is in, get that RF hydraulic line into the ABS module; and THEN re-attach it inside the wheel well. Trust me.
Once those two are in, the next four aren't too much of an issue.

So now you, too, can experience the warning triangle and the icon in the bottom right of the center display that warns you that both front assist *and* ACC are not available because you decided to drive in a decent rainstorm. Which happened to me yesterday. Twice. Cycling power resolved it the first time; the second time, it went away all on its own as I drove down the freeway. Electrical glitch? Something obscuring the radar sensor, something that eventually got washed away by the rain? Don't know.

Would like to add something to this that may save a lot of time. You may not need to replace your ABS module. I did this retrofit in a 15 GTI Base and did not change my pump and ACC works. I think as long as it has 29 or 30byte coding it will work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This was my initial coding for my OEM ABS: 04 FA 6A A1 24 20 09 6C 00 79 02 09 81 CC 25 20 56 24 90 00 40 81 A4 B2 10 63 00 50 C0 02 So, 30 bytes in total (numbered 0 to 29) - wouldn't work. I have heard from someone else, too, that if you have a manual transmission, it might have the requisite ABS pump. Trying to nail down the details and will update if I get something definitive.

What I head before I started is 3q0 and 5q0 will work. Mine is a 5g0. My advice to you it don’t change unless you do everything else and it doesn’t work. If you run into problems with coding shoot me a dm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you post the part number of your ABS module here? Do you have any kind of autonomous braking features? Like parking control or crash avoidance (whatever VW calls it)?

5q0614517j And as far as drivers assistance features, I had nothing before retrofitting Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's really interesting - and great news for others looking at this retrofit. One last question: Is your car manual or automatic?

It’s a manual. I wasn’t looking forward to splicing in the 46pin abs connector so I was just taking a chance. I’m glad I didn’t just do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wonder if that's the deal-maker on this (?). Like I mentioned earlier, with my DSG, I must've tried 100 different coding combinations to no avail. It'd come on and seem to work, but once I hit like 50km/h (I'm guessing this was the speed at which I could SET cruise speed), I'd get ACC ERROR (or wording to that effect). Do you mind posting what your before / after ABS coding looks like? And maybe what your other coding changes in other modules was - just so future readers of this thread have some reference.

On mobile now, I know I have after don’t know about before. I’ll try to post tomorrow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found before and after for ABS, or did you want complete scan? Before Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels: 5Q0-907-379-ESP-V1.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 907 379 K HW: 5Q0 907 379 F Component: ESC H31 0371 Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 52324000000085 Coding: 01FA6BA1342309720077020581C92980D62C9000408194B400430050C009 Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316 ASAM Dataset: EV_Brake1UDSContiMK100ESP 033001 ROD: EV_Brake1UDSContiMK100ESP_033.rod VCID: 4487F917CF9BD6A66F-8010 No fault code found. After: Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels: 5Q0-907-379-ESP-V1.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 907 379 K HW: 5Q0 907 379 F Component: ESC H31 0371 Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 52324000000085 Coding: 01FA6BA1342309720077020581C92980D62C9000408194B4F4435050C089 Shop #: WSC 00046 123 12345 ASAM Dataset: EV_Brake1UDSContiMK100ESP 033001 ROD: EV_Brake1UDSContiMK100ESP_033.rod VCID: 4487F917CF9BD6A66F-8010 No fault code found.

Did you post your ABS coding?

Ahhh - and my OEM ABS module was a 3Q0: Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels: None Part No SW: 3Q0 907 379 P HW: 3Q0 907 379 C Maybe that's the difference (?). My 3Q0 907 379 AB In any event, for anyone interested, here's a coding comparison: 04 FA 6A A1 24 20 09 6C 00 79 02 09 81 CC 25 20 56 24 90 00 40 81 A4 B2 10 63 00 50 C0 02 - Nuje's OEM (w. 3Q0...P module) 04 FA 6A A1 24 20 09 6C 00 79 02 09 81 CC 25 20 56 24 90 00 40 81 A4 B2 16 60 F0 50 C0 02 - Nuje's ACC (w. 3Q0...AB module) 01 FA 6B A1 34 23 09 72 00 77 02 05 81 C9 29 80 D6 2C 90 00 40 81 94 B4 00 43 00 50 C0 09 - Xabhax's OEM 01 FA 6B A1 34 23 09 72 00 77 02 05 81 C9 29 80 D6 2C 90 00 40 81 94 B4 F4 43 50 50 C0 89 - Xabhax's ACC

Isn’t byte 26 supposed to be 50 for bidirectional abs sensors. That could be your problem Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is according to Xagico's .pdf. Trust me - I tried 50 there, with numerous other permutations as well; this was the only one that worked.

Try changing the first byte to 01 and then 26 to F0 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found coding for a 3q0 p module and it starts with 01 also. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And byte 2 to 6B Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you get it working? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh - I had it working for months and thousands of km with that "ACC" coding you see a couple posts back. It's only since I removed the Lane Assist camera that I was trying to retrofit that things have gone askew (might be related to another issue, though, so I'm currently working on that).

They work together, my lane assist stopped working when i first put acc in but before I got it working. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to update: once I got the "bulb out" error addressed, ACC came back - all good.

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Enable/Retrofit Adaptive Cruise Control Mk7 Golf Wolfsburg

Thread starter dgoodell
Start date Aug 20, 2017

Verified VCDS User

I have a lot of traffic on my way to work so regular cruise control is basically useless for my commute. I bought a new 2017 Golf Wolfsburg a little a while ago and thought that it might be possible to enable ACC since the car already had the radar for the front braking assistance. I noticed that the car didn't have the ACC button on the steering wheel so I figured the 1st order of business was to get new steering wheel buttons and install them. The original P/N was 5G0 959 442 P. I noticed that the 2017 Golf SEL Alltrack used 5G0 959 442 R. Unfortunately, I couldn't find that P/N used (new is way too expensive) so I found 5G0 959 442 K online. I installed the button relatively easily and started the car up. Unfortunately, none of the buttons seemed to work properly and it was not clear what I had to change. I modified the coding of a few modules and ACC shows up as on option under the instrument cluster however the cruise control buttons still do nothing. If I remember correctly I modified the coding in the Engine ECU to change from regular cruise control to adaptive with front assist and the adaptation channel on the CAN Gateway to change the multifunction steering wheel from GRA-High to ACC -High. There may have been a few other small things I changed but I can't recall them right now. There are a few faults showing up currently: 01: Engine: No communications with cruise control front distance sensor 13: Auto Dist. Reg: Implausible message 17: Instruments: Missing message Does anyone have any experience with this? Is the problem that I am using the wrong part number steering wheel buttons. Is what I'm trying to do even possible? Would it be possible to get the regular cruise control with these buttons or do I have to change it back to the original buttons? Thanks for any assistance anyone may be able to provide. The original autoscan log of my car and adaptation channel maps for a few modules are here: ftp://batdan.uk.to Here is my current autoscan file: Code: Sunday,20,August,2017,13:39:31:62507 VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 8 x64 VCDS Version: 17.8.0.1 (x64) HEX-V2 CB: 0.4401.4 Data version: 20170721 DS276.2 www.Ross-Tech.com VIN: License Plate: Mileage: 2829km-1757mi Repair Order: Chassis Type: AU-VW37 (3Q0) Scan: 01 02 03 05 08 09 13 15 16 17 19 2B 3C 42 44 52 5F 75 VIN: 3VW217AU6HM050391 Mileage: 2829km-1757miles 01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010 02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000 05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: OK 0000 08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000 09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000 13-Auto Dist. Reg -- Status: Malfunction 0010 15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000 16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000 17-Instruments -- Status: Malfunction 0010 19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000 2B-Steer. Col. Lock -- Status: OK 0000 3C-Lane Change -- Status: OK 0000 42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000 44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000 52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000 5F-Information Electr. -- Status: OK 0000 75-Telematics -- Status: OK 0000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine (J623-CXBB) Labels:. 06K-907-425-V1.clb Part No SW: 8V0 906 264 K HW: 06K 907 425 B Component: 1.8l R4 TFSI H13 0003 Revision: --H13--- Coding: 091A00122444042F1000 Shop #: WSC 00066 790 00221 ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM18TFS0208V0906264K 001004 ROD: EV_ECM18TFS0208V0906264K.rod VCID: 44D244805E149D973F2-8010 1 Fault Found: 22008 - No Communications with Cruise Control (Front) Distance Sensor U0235 00 [039] - - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 2829 km Date: 2017.08.20 Time: 13:34:57 Engine speed: 0.00 /min Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 0 km/h Coolant temperature: 66 °C Intake air temperature: 39 °C Ambient air pressure: 980 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 12.128 V Dynamic environmental data: 00 Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Engine: operating status: ES ECU_STATE: ENG_STOP Engine oil temperature: 30.0 °C Time since engine start: 0.0 s T_ES: 4 min Cruise control switch actuation-Main switch: not activated Cruise control switch actuation-Setting: not activated Cruise control switch actuation-Activation: not activated Cruise control switch actuation-Status: OK Cruise control switch actuation-Accelerate: not activated Cruise control switch actuation-Decelerate: not activated Cruise control switch actuation-Cancel: not activated Cruise control switch actuation-Main switch hardware: not activated Cruise control switch actuation-Coding: plausible Cruise control switch actuation-Limit function: not selected Cruise control switch actuation-Limit button: not activated Cruise control switch actuation-Main switch CAN: not activated Cruise control switch actuation-Large increment: not activated Cruise control switch actuation-Control component verified: Yes T_AST_SAE: 0 s Readiness: 1110 1101 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 02: Auto Trans (J217) Labels: None Part No SW: 09G 927 158 AR HW: 09G 927 158 Component: AISIN AG6 G3 202 3198 Coding: 010200000C000000000000000000000000000000 Shop #: WSC 00066 790 00221 ASAM Dataset: EV_TCMAQ250031 002009 ROD: EV_TCMAQ250031_002_VW25.rod VCID: 0350879C1B9A5AAF468-8056 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels:| 5Q0-907-379-ESP-V1.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 614 517 AQ HW: 5Q0 614 517 AF Component: ESC H62 0400 Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 50027000000143 Coding: 01FA6AA12425096C407A020980C42980562490024001943410405050C082430000000012121212B835351919323200 Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316 ASAM Dataset: EV_Brake1UDSContiMK100ESP 036010 ROD: EV_Brake1UDSContiMK100ESP_036_VW37.rod VCID: 005A88900A8C41B75BA-8054 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. (J518) Labels:| 5Q0-959-435.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 959 435 B HW: 5Q0 959 435 Component: VWKESSYMQB 021 0710 Revision: 00021000 Serial number: 0426439587 Coding: 032C0C Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316 ASAM Dataset: EV_KessyHellaMQBAB 002019 ROD: EV_KessyHellaMQBAB_002_VW37.rod VCID: 3B203F7C23EAE26F4E8-806E No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC (J301) Labels:| 5G0-907-426.clb Part No SW: 5GM 907 426 E HW: 5GM 907 426 E Component: AC Manuell H03 1801 Revision: 00001K04 Coding: 00020004200100000000000000000002 Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316 ASAM Dataset: EV_ACManueBHBVW37X 004134 ROD: EV_ACManueBHBVW37X_004_VW37.rod VCID: 4ACE6AB87C304BE7C5E-801E Fresh Air Blower Front: Refrigerant Pressure And Temperature Sender: No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:. 5Q0-937-08X-V2.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 937 087 AN HW: 5Q0 937 087 AN Component: BCM PQ37BOSCH 032 0223 Revision: -------- Serial number: C86402021701R5 Shop #: WSC 00066 790 00195 ASAM Dataset: EV_BodyContrModul1UDSBosc 017002 ROD: EV_BCMBOSCH_017_VW27.rod VCID: 0748938C2FA2768F1A0-8052 Control Unit For Wiper Motor: Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 5G1 955 119 A HW: 5G1 955 119 Labels: 5QX-955-119-V1.CLB Component: WWS 161105 043 0551 Serial number: 97022066161121064916 Coding: 0E4DDD Rain Light Recognition Sensor: Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 5Q0 955 559 B HW: 5Q0 955 559 B Labels: 5Q0-955-547.CLB Component: RLS 042 0105 Serial number: S7Y16M12D23H05M07S57 Coding: 06A8DD Sun Roof: Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 5GD 959 591 A HW: 5GD 959 591 A Component: J245 PS60.006 H07 0170 Serial number: 03691623530111161752 Coding: 181803 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 13: Auto Dist. Reg (J428) Labels:| 3Q0-907-572.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 907 572 H HW: 5Q0 907 572 H Component: ACC BOSCH MQB H10 0620 Coding: 3500000101FFC428949C810500301600000000000000000000 Shop #: WSC 00066 790 00221 ASAM Dataset: EV_ACCBOSCHVW416 002005 ROD: EV_ACCBOSCHVW416.rod VCID: 3C223C6026E4E557472-8068 1 Fault Found: 1116 - Databus U1122 00 [009] - Implausible Message Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 88 Mileage: 2829 km Date: 2017.08.20 Time: 13:34:55 Dynamic environmental data: 00 Control Module temperature: 55 °C Voltage terminal 15: 12.0 V Velocity_vehicle_reference: 0.00 m/s Longitudinal_acceleration_vehicle_reference: -0.00 m/s² Status_ACC_System: ACC_reversible_error ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 15: Airbags (J234) Labels:| 5Q0-959-655.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 959 655 J HW: 5Q0 959 655 J Component: AirbagVW20 010 0830 Serial number: 003GCR070NY- Coding: 8CCCFC00000000005000001AC24800000065 Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316 ASAM Dataset: EV_AirbaVW20SMEVW37X 002144 ROD: EV_AirbaVW20SMEVW37X_VW37.rod VCID: 47C8538C6F22B68FDA0-8012 Occupant Detection: Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 4M0 959 339 B HW: 4M0 959 339 B Component: BF-Gewichtss. H13 0022 Serial number: IBH000000000006MVJTO Coding: 303135 Side Sensor Driver Front: Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: ----------- HW: 480 001 712 16 Component: SideSensor_Df 001 0887 Serial number: 3570000000015DF48F1Y Coding: 2D2D2D Side Sensor Passenger Front: Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: ----------- HW: 480 001 712 16 Component: SideSensor_Pf 001 0887 Serial number: 358000000002A83D3D1Q Coding: 2D2D2D Side Sensor Driver Rear: Subsystem 4 - Part No SW: ----------- HW: 480 402 012 16 Component: SideSensor_Dr 000 6149 Serial number: 3510001C3237EE369625 Coding: 2D2D2D Side Sensor Passenger Rear: Subsystem 5 - Part No SW: ----------- HW: 480 402 012 16 Component: SideSensor_Pr 000 6149 Serial number: 3520001AF237EE33A48I Coding: 2D2D2D Front Sensor Driver: Subsystem 6 - Part No SW: ----------- HW: 480 403 101 17 Component: FrontSensor_D 001 6149 Serial number: 3550002AF23C4E427305 Coding: 2D2D2D Front Sensor Passenger: Subsystem 7 - Part No SW: ----------- HW: 480 403 101 17 Component: FrontSensor_P 001 6149 Serial number: 3560002A5234FA3611F5 Coding: 2D2D2D No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 16: Steering wheel (J527) Labels:. 5Q0-953-549.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 953 507 HL HW: 5Q0 953 549 E Component: Lenks. Modul 003 0140 Revision: -------- Serial number: 12011708490023 Coding: 0410 Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316 ASAM Dataset: EV_SMLSKLOMQB 020002 ROD: EV_SMLSKLOMQB_020_VW37.rod VCID: 0748938C2FA2768F1A0-8052 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 17: Instruments (J285) Labels:| 5G0-920-XXX-17.clb Part No SW: 5G1 920 840 B HW: 5G1 920 840 B Component: KOMBI 244 8311 Coding: 0BA4191AA588CF0502886A295000000000000000 Shop #: WSC 00066 790 00221 ASAM Dataset: EV_DashBoardVDDMQBAB 009051 ROD: EV_DashBoardVDDMQBAB_009_VW26.rod VCID: 2616FE08C8684F87016-8072 1 Fault Found: 16776996 - Databus U1121 00 [009] - Missing Message Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 88 Mileage: 2829 km Date: 2017.08.20 Time: 13:34:54 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels: None Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 C HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 515 5286 Serial number: 17021700840178 Coding: 0101000870085900FA0000181C0F00000001050000000000000000000000 Shop #: WSC 00066 790 00215 ASAM Dataset: EV_GatewNF 013020 ROD: EV_GatewNF_VW37.rod VCID: 2F381B2CE7920ECFF20-807A Alternator: Multi Function Steering Wheel Control Module: Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 5G0 959 442 K HW: 5G0 959 442 K Labels: 3C8-959-537.CLB Component: E221__MFL-DC1 H17 0040 Serial number: 29170001392130067255 Coding: 2C0000 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 2B: Steer. Col. Lock (J764) Labels:| 5Q0-905-861.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 905 861 A HW: 5Q0 905 861 A Component: ELV-MQBA H01 0120 Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 16000226222007 Coding: 5D00000000000000 Shop #: WSC 00066 790 00215 ASAM Dataset: EV_ELVMarquMQB 004111 ROD: EV_ELVMarquMQB_004_VW37.rod VCID: 343214400EB42D178F2-8060 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 3C: Lane Change (J1086) Labels:* None Part No SW: 5Q0 907 686 B HW: 5Q0 907 686 B Component: HRE_Master H12 0071 Serial number: 0414373429 Coding: 01011103 Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316 ASAM Dataset: EV_HREntryHella 001028 ROD: EV_HREntryHella_VW32.rod VCID: 3C223C6026E4E557472-8068 Lane Change Assistant 2: No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 42: Door Elect, Driver (J386) Labels:| 5QX-959-X93-42.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 959 393 E HW: 5Q0 959 393 B Component: TSG FS 020 0041 Serial number: 2301170605015S Coding: 003013200000020000000000 Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316 ASAM Dataset: EV_DCUDriveSideEWMINKLO 006003 ROD: EV_DCUDriveSideEWMAXCONT_VW37.rod VCID: 41DC4D94410688BF144-8014 Drivers Door Rear Control Module: Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 5Q4 959 811 D HW: 5Q4 959 811 D Labels: 5QX-959-81X-V1.CLB Component: Fond FHSG DRV 007 0002 Serial number: 00000000000005476759 Coding: 011000 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 44: Steering Assist (J500) Labels:| 5Q0-909-144.clb Part No SW: 5QM 909 144 A HW: 5QM 909 144 A Component: EPS_MQB_ZFLS 171 1072 Coding: 0102 Shop #: WSC 00066 790 00221 ASAM Dataset: EV_SteerAssisMQB 013144 ROD: EV_SteerAssisMQB_013_VW37.rod VCID: 4FF87BAC87526ECF920-801A No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. (J387) Labels:| 5QX-959-X92-52.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 959 392 E HW: 5Q0 959 392 B Component: TSG BFS 020 0041 Serial number: 1701170605037F Coding: 003013200000020000000000 Shop #: WSC 01383 790 50316 ASAM Dataset: EV_DCUPasseSideEWMINKLO 006003 ROD: EV_DCUPasseSideEWMAXCONT_VW37.rod VCID: 40DA48904A0C81B71BA-8014 Passengers Rear Door Control Module: Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 5Q4 959 812 D HW: 5Q4 959 812 D Labels: 5QX-959-81X-V1.CLB Component: Fond FHSG PSG 007 0002 Serial number: 00000000000005235870 Coding: 091000 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 5F: Information Electr. (J794) Labels:| 5G0-035-MIB-STD2.clb Part No SW: 3Q0 035 844 A HW: 3Q0 035 844 A Component: MU-S-S-US 710 0751 Serial number: Coding: 02730000FF00000051220001001808009F0100D40120010002 Shop #: WSC 00066 790 00215 ASAM Dataset: EV_MUStd4CDELP 001001 ROD: EV_MUStd4CDELP_VW26.rod VCID: 2D040124ED9E7CDFC0C-8078 Operating And Display Unit 1: Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 3G0 919 605 H HW: 3G0 919 605 H Component: ABT_Std-2 H53 1031 Serial number: VWZ8Z9TJW025JE No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 75: Telematics (J949) Labels:| 5QE-035-285.clb Part No SW: 5QE 035 285 A HW: 5QE 035 285 A Component: OCULowMQBUS 007 0570 Coding: 02730002C2823A017F1E06000000 Shop #: WSC 00066 790 00215 ASAM Dataset: EV_OCULowMQB 001006 ROD: EV_OCULowMQB_VW37.rod VCID: 43D0479C5B1A9AAF068-8016 No fault code found. End----------(Elapsed Time: 01:28, VBatt start/end: 12.1V/12.1V)-----------

Benevolent Dictator

Have you checked whether the radar sensor is really the same one as used in cars that have ACC ? I wouldn't put it past VW to do something different, even if it's only different software in the sensor, to prevent a "premium" feature like ACC from being enabled. -Uwe-

needs enabling via geko online

hmm............... your autoscan doesn't appear to have a module @ address A5 - Frt Sens. Drv. Assist. I had thought that ACC needed one of these. Don

ACC uses the auto distance radar at address 13 which is present. A5 is the front camera module which is used for lane keeping assist and sign recognition.

It's the same part number as the one that is in cars that have ACC . I would think that if there was anything permanently different they would give it a different part number. I am sure it's possible but I don't know how I would be able to tell that or if it is something that the dealer can do online. Here's the scan for address 13 from a 2017 Alltrack SEL & my car. There are some coding differences, I'll have to check and see if those are related or not later. Code: 2017 Alltrack SEL: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 13: Auto Dist. Reg (J428) Labels: 3Q0-907-572.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 907 572 H HW: 5Q0 907 572 H Component: ACC BOSCH MQB H10 0620 Coding: 350000C141FFC428949C810520301600000000000000000000 Coding: 3500000101FFC428949C810500301600000000000000000000 Shop #: WSC 00066 790 00218 ASAM Dataset: EV_ACCBOSCHVW416 002005 ROD: EV_ACCBOSCHVW48X.rod VCID: 3C59E5AAB7652BA1F5-8068 No fault code found. My 2017 Golf Wolfsburg: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 13: Auto Dist. Reg (J428) Labels:| 3Q0-907-572.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 907 572 H HW: 5Q0 907 572 H Component: ACC BOSCH MQB H10 0620 Coding: 3500000101FFC428949C810500301600000000000000000000 Shop #: WSC 00066 790 00221 ASAM Dataset: EV_ACCBOSCHVW416 002005 ROD: EV_ACCBOSCHVW416.rod VCID: 3C223C6026E4E557472-8068

jimmyq said: needs enabling via geko online Click to expand...

No easy way at moment. Hardware is same, but FEC codes for SWAP functions are different. Without correct FEC codes the feature is useless. MQB is totally a platform wherd You need to order the features You want and can't retrofit them. At least for now. If i look how VCDS has planned their business, and for legal reasons also, this wont be ever possible with VCDS .

golfi_vend said: No easy way at moment. Hardware is same, but FEC codes for SWAP functions are different. Without correct FEC codes the feature is useless. MQB is totally a platform wherd You need to order the features You want and can't retrofit them. At least for now. If i look how VCDS has planned their business, and for legal reasons also, this wont be ever possible with VCDS . Click to expand...

You will have to get an ABS module/pump that is compatible with ACC , (pr. code 8T8 if you have an automatic or DSG , and 8T5 if its a manual, ABS module 3Q0907379AB, new 46 pin connector, plus new wire pins, new ACC compatible rear ABS sensors, steering wheel button for ACC ). and that's probably why you're not getting communications between controllers. I'm referencing from 15'-16 models, for 17's it's a different story (I think).

I'm pretty sure you have messed the pr codes there. My understanding is that 8T3 is for manual + acc , 8T5 is automatic as it incorporates stop&go and 8T8 is for newer generation acc and is for both manual and automatic. I've done quite a bit of research on the matter and this is my understanding of ABS pr codes. Earlier MQB cars did not have 46pin ABS . And they still support 8T3 and 8T5.

downtime said: I'm pretty sure you have messed the pr codes there. My understanding is that 8T3 is for manual + acc , 8T5 is automatic as it incorporates stop&go and 8T8 is for newer generation acc and is for both manual and automatic. I've done quite a bit of research on the matter and this is my understanding of ABS pr codes. Earlier MQB cars did not have 46pin ABS . And they still support 8T3 and 8T5. Click to expand...

A more professional van tuning & speed limiter removal service

Retrofit & activating Cruise Control on a Mk7, MK8 & Custom Ford Transit

( for MK7 Transit just scroll down ).

MK8 & Transit Custom Cruise Control Activation

Vantuner offers mk8 transit & transit custom euro 5/6 cruise control activation on mk8 or custom , essentially , on 2014+ van’s , it’s a case of fitting or bringing along a cruise button equipped wheel & having me activate it. tested so far up to all versions up to & including facelift model’s up to 2023. same wheel is used on mk8 & customs, & other ford models so just find an identical styled wheel that has cruise buttons & you are good to go parts wise. .

Some wheel info – this Euro 5/6 ( up to 2018) one has part number BK21-3600- JA 35B8) part number’s dont really matter as long as the wheel look’s physically identical apart from the extra cruise controls ), but for reference another tested suitable steering wheel part number is BK21-3600- FD 35B8

You’ll see that the visual difference in the right-hand D-pad buttons from your old wheel. If you can match the right hand stereo controls great, otherwise you will lose radio control via the new wheel , in this case, the trim pops off & the switch pad can be swapped, using your old one from your old wheel. In most cases , the right hand pand will now control the radio as before.

Spanish ebay seems to be a good source for wheels with the correct d-pad but its not an issue as the d-pads are swappable as i said.

Some of these “good ” wheels (with just the added cruise buttons) , also need rewiring to get the right hand D-Pad working & customer Ian Hartley kindly sent these pix. He changed green/white tracer from position 2 to position 11 & the yellow from position 5 to position 12. There are other colours on some , but as long as have your old wheel , this can be worked out.

Another suitable wheel has phone controls, in the same style as the cruise controls, just on the lower right side. These wheels have different wiring for the right hand side controls so you’ll lose steering wheel control of your ( basic) radio unless you’re up for rewiring the connectors yourself ( as well as fitting right hand D-Pad from your existing wheel) i’ll update here if I can verify the wiring changes needed.

December 2022 update – some wheels have a 3 part paddle instead of a single control for CAN/RES, behind the main cruise controls – these are untested as yet, compare the pix above to the one your thinking of buying & avoid these for now.

Jan 2023 update – Wheel Part number DT11-3600-GA35B8 – seems to be a Transit Connect part number but is found on the odd Customs & works fine for cruise & basic radio control once right hand D-Pad is swapped. 1st pic is the cruise switch & second is the actual wheel part#.

Alternative steering wheel for transit custom cruise control

2019+ Facelift Models

On facelift 2019 model + just get a matching style cruise button equipped wheel from a Transit or Custom, like the one below , so far all seem OK, with full cruise & dash menu controls working after coding – will update with part numbers etc if that changes. Can you just fit a left hand cruise switch instead of a whole wheel ? maybe (if wiring is compatible ) – switch part number is H1BT-9E740-AB / 2127976.

MK7 Transit

Vantuner offers a full range of optional extra activation like switching on factory cruise control, & enabling outside air temperature function on so called “high level” clocks etc. In most cases, as connectors are usually in place already, its a case of fit the required parts & possibly add wires ,then arrange for activation.. Vantuner only activates options / installs BCM’s /Wheel’s rather than offering a turn-key service including wiring however in the case of cruise control, if you don’t already have the wiring in place ( many do ) only 2 wires have to be added & there are online guides to help specifically with this , see below…

Popular Mods –

Cruise Control
Exterior Temperature Sensor
Trip Computer High Spec Clocks
Rain Sensor
Auto lights
Bluetooth Via the Ford Stereo
Axle Ratio & Tyre Size correction after diff change
New engine or gearbox type after swap or upgrade
Vin change after ECU kit swaps
Cloning of your BCM here or by post to save expensive on-site options( not for van’s that have cruise)
Tacho removal to restore dash mileage

Some activation’s or cloning can also be carried out by post by sending in Your BCM or “Body” Computer.

There are few different wiring looms specs & body control modules fitted so firstly identify which you have to see if a module swap or additional wiring is needed .If the help below isn’t conclusive, please get in touch to confirm what’s involved on your van..If you have an Ex Rac van or a GLX or Limited model you are in luck from the off as a high spec dash wiring & body control module are already fitted to them from the factory, ditto if you have a low spec model but an optional extra like heated screen or cat1 alarm , heated mirrors or bluetooth already fitted…

Body Control Module Identification –

See video here

Drop down glove box, at far back & up is the module & on a white label, look for the ID in the format of 6C1T-14A073-CB, CJ etc, the C in that example denotes the high level version , if yours has a B in the 2nd from last digit , EG: 6C1T-14A073- B K that’s a so called lower level module, which cant support cruise or trip computer clocks etc..If you’ve only a B series body control module you will need to get a C ( or D ) series . C & D have extra components & one more IC ( chip ). Do you have a 2012 -2014 (Euro 5) Van ? then you if you dont already have a C or D you will need a C or D with the prefix CC1T or CC11 as accelerator pedal circuit handling differs on Euro 5 vans compared to those on the Euro 4 – Here is a picture of a B Series –

Wiring Requirements –

See video here

Some dash wiring looms already have the wiring in place for the cruise. The 2 wires required wiring run from the BCM to the squib connector near the ignition switch , remove the plastic cowling around the lower part of the steering column & look at the lower of the 2 connector plugs, if you’ve 2 orange wires ( 1 orange , 1 orange w/yellow tracer ) in position 4 & 5 of that connector you have the wiring needed. A video to help identify them is here . Usually if you find you have the cruise wires the other wiring for high spec clocks & most other optional extras is fitted also.

If you need to fit the wires yourself, locate the ” squib connector” under steering column lower cowling, nearest IGN switch, you ‘ll see the connector has nothing in pin’s 4 & 5 & wires in all other 4 pins, (1,2,3 & 6).

Pin outs are:- Squib Connector pin 4 (scm return) ( original is orange /yellow ) to BCM C6 pin 40 (speed control ground)

Squib Connector Pin 5 (scm signal) ( original is orange) to BCM C6 pin 26 (speed control signal).

You’ll need to pull the tab on the side of the connector away slightly to be able to remove the cables but you should be able to push the 2 terminals straight in.

On the BCM itself, it’s plug’s inputs are clearly marked C6, C5 etc, you only need to work on C6. unplug connector C6, lift flap at the side and slide out green connector, & you can then insert your 2 new wires. The 2 wires you create must be terminated with Ford tip’s & these must be harvested from a scrap loom, grab yourself a BCM connector from position 3, 4 or 6 with a few inches of wire tails from a scrap yard & you ‘ll have plenty as both ends of cruise wiring require the same tip. Amazon also sell the tips described as ” 10 x Wiring Crimp Repair Terminals Pins 000979009E Fits Audi VW Skoda Seat Porsche” or just search for “ 000979009E” – (thanks to Woolly Luke for this part# info)

For high level clocks you need 3 wires from the indicator stalk connector to the connector plug at the back of the new clocks, this allows control of the high level clocks menu.. its an easy job with the right metal wiring connector ends, ideally donated from a scrap loom .the type & size of connector you need are used all over the dash loom.. a great wiring guide for cruise & other mods penned by Welsh Transit guru “Loot” can be found here . If you are looking for the steering wheel with cruise buttons , search also for C-Max 2003-2007 or some Kuga as the part is compatible. Some Focus wheels are also compatible as long as they are identical in style ( Keep in mind some non transit ones have only 3 airbag locater lugs, rather than the usual 4 so you would need a matching 3 lug airbag in this case) ) Try Breakerlink for parts if you are stuck.

Auto Lights

The wiring for the auto light switch is in every MK7, but you’ll need to fit the light/rain sensor in the windscreen as well as the actual auto light switch. Also the light / rain sensor requires a different loom part which connects from the driver A post to the sensor & central locking pick up sensor. The basic loom just connects the central locking pick up receiver, located in the roof, behind the lining, near the centre.

Outside Temperature Sensor

The sensor fits on the front of the chassis leg, driver side, if you’ve no connector there already fitted ( look for a blanking plug) you need to run a wire to the BCM for this to work. Also a high level clock set & menu stalk & wiring are needed. The high level clocks have no buttons on the plastic screen & a menu / indicator stalk is required as well if you want the trip computer function along with it’s wiring.

Steering Wheel Suitable Types

For the simplest fit specifically use the wheel pictured from a Transit, C-Max or Kuga – & also Focus MK2 ones work but i haven’t verified that myself. Carry out a steering angle sensor calibration ( with IDS or Forscan etc ) if you do fit a non transit one. There are some minor wiring differences on non Transit wheels as well but amount to an extra earth , just unscrew & discard it.

Q- I just want cruise – what do I need ?

Q- if you have a C or D series BCM ( body control module) already just fit the right steering wheel & book in for activation.. ( all van’s i have seen with C /D series BCM’s do not require any additional wiring) if you’ve a B series BCM, buy a used C or D series BCM, fit if needed the 2 cruise control wires & book in for BCM fitting & activation. Bring any spare keys as all keys get cleared & re-added as part of the new BCM installation.

Q- Can it be done by post ? A – Yes, but only if the van came with a C or D series originally.

Q-I’ve fitted trip computer clocks & the functions all work apart from the outside temp?

A- A temperature sensor is needed & the function needs activating . Many Mk7’s have the plug ( with a blanking plug fitted ) for the temp sensor near the off side fog lamp on the chassis leg – The sensor just plugs in there & is the same part on many Mondeo’s also. To wire one in Pin 1 at Sensor (GN/BU) connects to BCM C4-33 / Pin 2 at sensor (YE/GN) connects to BCM C4-24.

Q- Its activated but isn’t working? nothing happens on transits when you press ON, you have to press plus ( +) & then lamp will light & speed is held & can be adjusted up & down using +/- as normal. Over 1500 rpm & 3rd gear or higher approximately is the minimum speed required but some onoly work at highway speeds due to differing axle & gear ratios. Tried that & still not working ? There’s a clutch position switch (part number 1143409 for £15) which has to be functional, ( read highlighted section at end of the paragraph 1st ) the switches themselves fail or the tang coming from the clutch pedal arm can bend, so not switching correctly. The tang when set correctly is at a right angle to its parent more or less . You can test the function of the switch with the FORD IDS diagnostic tool or similar in the data logging section for the BCM where you can also monitor the cruise control ( buttons) function ( the ability to do this is sketchy, sometimes it just doesn’t not show up despite cruise being active) Look for 200k ohm’s with an instant change if OFF, + or – are pressed. If you have that cruise is activated & the buttons are working. Sometimes the clutch switch circuit will fault after activation but this will self correct after a a few drives & cruise will then start working.

Q- The clocks I have fitted seem to work on the trip computer side of things but they reset randomly?

A- 2010 made clocks have a firmware bug which can be banished by a update.

Q – I’m worried my VIN or Vehicle spec ID will change by fitting used parts ?

A -Vantuners service modifies only whats needed so all ID & VIN numbers still match if Ford plug in all info spec & VIN etc is correct for the spec of van & module updates or replacements can be carried out as normal.

Q- I am having trouble finding C/D series BCM on ebay.

A – Try the Breakerlink used parts search utility for hard to find parts.

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TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas
VW MKVII-Mk7 Golf family including Golf Wagon (~ 2

Retrofitting ACC to Mk7 TDI

Thread starter Nuje
Start date Oct 1, 2019

JM Popaleetus

Veteran member.

The flat radar works up to 160KMH (99MPH). The round radar is good for 210KMH (130MPH). Source here. Frankly, there is no way in hell I’d ever use ACC at those speeds. So your stock radar should work fine. Here is a thread if you want to get real adventurous and install Lane Keeping Assist: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46696 And here is a guy that can enable ACC remotely: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49365

JM Popaleetus said: And here is a guy that can enable ACC remotely: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49365 Click to expand...

sounds like after all this work you'll need to zone out with ACC on the highway.

LRR (round radar) - found for $150 on eBay (component protection will need to be removed by dealer; figure at least an hour for that, maybe 1.5hrs)
15 wires have to swap over; 12 of them are 0.5mm (three are actually 0.35mm, but you use the same repair wire) so you need 6 repair wires - part number 000 979 046E ($7each, or if you're in Canada, $30 each (?!!?) [*]Three of the wires moving over are larger (2 x 4.0mm and one 2.5mm), and you also need to fill an additional ground spot in the wiring harness, so you need a 4.0mm repair wire (000 979 308 E) - one end will be for the extra ground, the other will be to replace the female end of the 2.5mm wire; the third "large" wire (red/yellow) can simply be moved without alteration
1.5-2.0L of brake fluid. Remember that the Mk7 specs the DOT4 "LV" (low viscosity). I went with OEM from dealer just to be sure I got the right stuff
Prevent LOTS of hydraulic fluid from oozing out: Set something to press the brake pedal (a 2x4 jammed between seat and pedal works), open the LR and LF bleed screws, press the brake pedal at least another 60mm, then close the LR and LF bleed screws; leave the brake pedal in that position (i.e., do not remove the 2x4 or whatever you have holding the pedal down)
Disconnect negative terminal of battery
Lift up the front end and take off the front wheels (you don't strictly need to, but it'll make life so much easier).
If you at all can, lift up the rear of the car, too, just to give yourself easier access to everything because...
...you have to disconnect the front exhaust pipe, part of which involves undoing an exhaust clamp that's about ⅔ of the way to the back of the car.
Front exhaust pipe comes off fairly easily: Two 16mm nuts on that exhaust clamp; two 13mm bolts on the front exhaust hanger, one 5mm bolt that secures a T-bolt-type clamp which attaches the front exhaust pipe to the DPF outlet.
Slide the exhaust pipe back a bit. You need to do all of this because the DPF is blocking any chance of getting the ABS module out through the top of the engine

Cap all of the lines and plug all of the holes best you can; I used vacuum caps on the hydraulic lines and they seemed to do the trick
Wiggle, rotate, twist, push the ABS module down against the firewall. It fits, but it is tight. Then get under the car and pull it out through the exhaust tunnel beside the exhaust pipe; it won't come out from where the drive shaft inserts into the tranny
Same thing with getting the new one in there - start it from below, then grab from above.
If you thought it was a PITA getting the old ABS pump off the posts, it's even more fun getting the new one on (remember "do not bend the hydraulic lines" - again, let me know how you make out with that)
Once you're secure on the three posts, start inserting the hydraulic lines. Pro tip: Undo the right-front hydraulic line inside the wheel well; I fought for literally hours trying to get the hydraulic lines inserted squarely and not cross-threaded; then removed that line and within 20 minutes had all six lines snugged up
Start with the hydraulic lined nearest to the firewall. It is by far the most cumbersome to work with. DO NOT USE A WRENCH until you are absolutely 110% sure it is threaded straight. I was cross-threaded on that one line at least six times before I got it square
Once that line against the firewall is in, get that RF hydraulic line into the ABS module; and THEN re-attach it inside the wheel well. Trust me.
Once those two are in, the next four aren't too much of an issue.

I'm very upset by the lack of responses to this thread, haha. In about a month, if you don't mind, I will add my experience to this thread. I will be retrofitting ACC to a Golf S TDI though. I think all the hard parts are covered here already, thankfully. In addition to what is here I will be buying the support bracket and front grill to allow installation of the LRR, running all harnesses, and replacing both BCM and Gateway with the "highline" versions.

DivineChaos

yeahhhh. cool but way to involved for me. good job figuring it all out

Looking forward to the car yelling at me to downshift [emoji16]. BCM will be installed and coded by dealer on Tuesday. I'm hesitant about having them do the Gateway (as opposed to asking Jack do it remotely) due to the added FECs I have for MIB II and Nav. What the dealer quotes mean I may have them give it a shot anyway oh, I suppose I could always ask Jack to fix it, haha. Now I'm waiting for parts to come do this retrofit and the lane assist camera. Question, minimally related to this retrofit... any idea for getting the existing mirror mount off of the windshield? I'm thinking heat, but not sure how much. I do have a heat gun with digital temp control (from 120°-1200°F) so I can go up slowly until it loosens. Then it's just a matter of removing the remaining adhesive. And ordering that Sugru you mentioned. Any better ideas before I give mine a shot? Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

Well now... if the window cracks then I will replace it with the proper glass, which will be necessary if I can't get the existing mount off anyway. I won't be attempting this until all parts are on hand. Got things coming in from all over the world via Ebay/Ali/VW/etc. I'm hoping to get lucky and find the LRR at a decent price. Been searching Ebay daily but can't find them for under $350ish USD. Looks like you found quite the deal at around $150. I'll either save some money if I can get the mount off or I will make absolutely sure I have to spend the money to replace the windshield, haha.

thundershorts

If you crack your golf s w/shield replace it with a far superior one made by st gobain with a grey rather than green tint. You will notice immediately all the side distortion goes away and color rendition is greatly improved. One of my best upgrades.

I'll keep that in mind, couldn't remember what manufacturer people always recommended but that's the one. My front windshield has had 50% tint since a week after I bought the car, didn't even know it had a green tint from factory, haha. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

The windshield I ended up with - which doesn't fit the camera I was planning to install (long story; assumptions and errors made by me and the glass place) - is made by Fuyao; I didn't know my previous windshield was so bad until I got this one installed. I was shocked at how much clearer everything looked. Side note: Turns out, Fuyao is the subject of the Netflix (Academy Award-winning) documentary, American Factory .

Finished ordering parts this weekend. Got absolutely hooked up by KyACRASH over on GolfMk7. Now I just have to wait for everything to get here. And I still need to contact Jack about replacing my Gateway. Do I dare have the dealership do it? The car is there right now, and the new (used) gateway is in fact boxed up in the back. I ordered connector 4M0 998 046 for $8 which is great. The 20 pins for repair wire 000 979 046E (I will need one more than you, for clutch position sensor) and 10 pins for repair wire 000 979 308 E cost me another $35. Curiously I also see connector 4M0 998 046 A but it was about $40 everywhere I looked... any idea what could be different? Or just VAG with a random revision/price bump?

Where did you pick up repair wires? And if you don't mind, about how much did they run you? I had ordered on eBay from a seller in Europe... Seller reached out and said their country is suspending flights even for postage, so no definite timetable for when they would ship. Everything else except for the ABS pump has already shipped, tracked a lot of it today and it's already here in Los Angeles, should have it by end of week. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

I got the repair wires from Aaron and the boys over at CascadeGerman.com . They didn't list them on the site so I called; they didn't have them in stock (not surprising), but they got a 10-pack in about a day and shipped them out to me (same price, IIRC - like $35USD; like I'd mentioned above, my dealer - who sells me stuff at barely above their cost - couldn't get them under $30 PER WIRE for me(!?)). I received them - in Canada - in just under a week, which is pretty good cross-border shipping speed. No idea on the revision to the ABS wiring harness housing - why one costs $8 and the revision/update is 5x the price.... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

What version of ODIS did you use? I am digging out whatever came with my VAS 5054 but I'm not sure what version it is, purchased a couple years ago. I also got the new ABS Module connector yesterday. Does this connector have one of those purple "rails" to hold the small pins in?

Got it, there is a purple something I can see through a hole on one side of the connector, but as describe for the old connector it looks like it will move a couple millimeters at most in each direction. There is a hole on the other side that could be used to push it back but it certainly won't come out. The version I have is 4.x.x so I'll be good I hope. Have an appointment with Jack in a few hours for the highline gateway... might ask him about performance monitor and driving profiles. Performance monitor still may not work due to the ECU firmware but it would be cool to see in a TDI. One of the other outfits that does remote programming said they could activate driving profiles on this car. I don't know but I wonder if the GTD had them. Edit: I'm referring to driving modes, which I guess are also referred to as profiles; eco, normal, sport, individual... not to be confused with Driver Personalization (which I have the option for in my infotainment right now due to dealer not programming my new BCM properly) Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

Yeah - couldn't remember if there was that purple thing in the new one or not. But it certainly makes sense that there would be. And like I said, you just "click" it over 1-2mm at most. If you look through the empty holes, you can see the purple locking "fingers" slide in/out of view as you move that purple lock-bar. Given that you have the MIB2 and (soon) Highline gateway, no reason you shouldn't be able to have the Performance monitor, ThinkBlue, and "Offroad" settings as well. I didn't explicitly ask for them, but once I got my MIB2 installed and working, I have them. Performance Monitor: Three gauges that can show turbo boost, oil temp, coolant temp, and g-force. ThinkBlue: Basically shows you have efficiently you're driving - I've only ever glanced at it. Can't remember everything it shows besides fuel economy. Offroad: Three gauges which you can choose to view (don't quote me - doing this from memory and I don't look at this one often)...steering angle, coolant temp, oil temp, ambient temp (?).

Nice... I got Think Blue when I first went MIB II (non nav) and then got Off-road when I upgraded to nav, but maybe I could have enabled it before. Think Blue is no longer allowed, per my wife. She thinks it's bad enough when driving my car flatout as compared to her car, let alone driving my car with efficiency in mind. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

I'll have a look at that link when I get home... But I actually have 20m of can wiring on the way already, ordered along with LRR harness... As anticipated that harness only has 4 wires in it so I was already intending to add the twisted pair that goes to the Lane assist camera. The real issue is that I now need various pins that I was not considering. Still need to order the repair wires, the cheapest I found them online is just over $4 each so it'll cost me about $55 total... Was quoted over $100 to get them from Cascade German, roughly the same price as my local dealership. Found this, it won't be OEM but it looks like a pretty clean way to add things on the can bus... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000334862080.html? Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

Active member

Great Write-up lots of information gathered enough to start doing the retrofit on my vehicle after few failed attempts. In process of getting the parts procured, Round LRR Radar, ABS Module, etc. One Question I had about the radar is, these ones are quite hard to find used online and/or quite expensive., its all in 350+ range (USD). Is there any particular versions/indexes of the radar - 5Q0907541 to avoid ? Eg. This thread and mqb.pl blog calls for a 5Q0907541P ., would it be okay if i order the radar with index L or G ?

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Who are you?

I’m Nath. IT Professional, self-proclaimed geek & Ford enthusiast.

What do you do?

Many things, but if you’re reading this page you’re probably more interested in the cruise control I can retrofit to certain Fiestas.

Can I have cruise control?

Well that depends, you have to answer 1 very simple question, and 1 not so simple question.

Question #1

Do you have a 2008-2012 Fiesta commonly referred to as MK7 or pre-facelift? They look a bit like the one on the left:

If yes continue on to Question #2.

Question #2

Do you have a white and green/brown wire inside your steering column? It’s as easy as removing 3 screws and 2 bits of plastic to check, click here for the instructions.

But I have a 2012+ MK7.5/facelift model – why can’t I have cruise control?

Ford changed the way the ECU is programmed and unfortunately that stops me accessing the area I need to modify to activate cruise control. There are stories online of MK7.5 owners successfully retrofitting cruise control by a helpful dealership.

I’ve got the 2 wires on a MK7 Fiesta – what else do I need?

You’re going to need some parts. These include: the silver ‘V’ trim on your steering wheel, the radio & cruise buttons, and the wires that links them together. Ford won’t sell those parts individually, only as a complete wheel (last time I checked it was several hundred pounds) so your best bet is to get the steering wheel from a Titanium model from a breakers yard (that’s the only UK model that came with cruise control as standard).

Please note that it’s really important that the wires be in one piece for everything to work. Sounds obvious when you say it but if you’re buying online always message the seller first to confirm. I have seen some in the past from heavy handed breakers who ripped them apart when taking out the airbag. Here’s a photo showing the important parts. Make sure the white plug, 2 spades and metal O ring as all firmly attached. A good target price is around £50. If you get really stuck trying to find one, ask me and I’ll do my best. I recharge part at cost + 10%.

And how much is all this going to cost me?

There’s 2 options depending on where you are, geographically speaking.

Option #1 – Lets Meet

I’m in Milton Keynes and can visit you if you’re within 20 miles of here (MK, Northampton, Bedford, Luton, Aylesbury). Of course you’re more than welcome to come and see me in sunny* MK.

*may not actually be sunny during your visit.

For me to complete a full installation (removal of airbag & steering wheel trim, installation of new trim with radio & cruise control buttons, reinstall airbag), reprogram the ECU to activate cruise control, all whilst making pleasant small talk you’re looking at £100.

If you know a super-dooper mechanic or feel you can complete the installation yourself and just need me to perform the activation with my IT wizardry, it’s £50. Remember though, airbags are dangerous and only attempt this if you know what you’re doing.

Option #2 – Install/Activation by a Local Mechanic

If you’re too far from Milton Keynes, are good friends with a mechanic, or just can’t face seeing me don’t worry, I don’t hold a grudge. As long as you know someone with the Ford IDS software and VCM cable they should be able to perform the activation for you with a little guidance from yours truly. You may be asking what they would need my help for. Well you see, Ford very kindly disabled the option of enabling cruise control through their official diagnostic software. You can see the option but it’s greyed out. This is where my IT skills come in and by following my simple instructions along with an activation file you purchase from me for the very reasonable price of £25, your mechanic should be able to perform the same magic as me and get cruise control activated.

Click here if you’d like to purchase a file for your vehicle.

And how long is all this going to take?

Approximately 45-60 minutes.

When can you do it?

Usually weekends, contact me to check availability.

I have more questions!

No problem, just drop me an email and I’ll do my best to answer them.

Fiesta MK7 Cruise Control

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Adaptive Cruise Control Retrofit ACC

£ 440.00 (excluding VAT)

Please Contact us for Prices

Description

Some cars like Golf MK7, Seat Leon, Seat Ateca, Skoda Octavia, Skoda Kodiaq, Transporter T6.1 and others comes with Front Assist Radar but without ACC. We can retrofit and Adaptive Cruise Control Retrofit in our workshop.

Unfortunately price depends of car, model and year and will be calculated individually. Price above is estimate and its based on Seat Leon up to 2019 with Front Assist. Please contact us before ordering to check your car compatibility.

Please note: Picture for illustration purposes only and may vary on different models, depends of spec of the car.

Fitting in our workshop in Redditch.

Please visit our Facebook page for some examples.

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Retrofitting Cruise Control - MK7.5

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Hi guys, I wanted to introduce having recently purchased a Fiesta ST-1 just over a week ago. It's a 2014 in Frozen White with just over 20,000 miles on it. The car is pretty standard, with the style pack being the only upgrade I have noticed that has been fitted. I'm really happy with the car so far and am having a lot of fun in it. One thing I would like to fit in the car is cruise control, as I do a lot of motorway driving. I've done quite a lot of reading across different forums and sites around the topic, but can't find a definite answer on whether it's possible to retrofit cruise control on the MK7.5 as it seems to be on the MK7. From what I have read, the issue is being able to activate the feature. Has anyone been able to do this, or advise if it is possible or not? I am keen to buy the parts in (I have sourced the replacement silver fascia with switches), but would rather not only to find out it can't be done. Thanks, Harry

yes you can

All Fiesta STs are MK 7.5 as the ST came in along with the facelift to the rest of the Fiesta line-up. I retrofitted cruise control on my ST-2, and activating it is no real issue - a laptop, ForScan software and a modified ELM module is all you need. The instructions I successfully followed are here: http://www.fiestastoc.com/forums/topic/212906-st-2-cruise-control-retrofit-success/page-10 You'll need to be a paid up member to view, but considering the various discount codes you also get access to, membership pays itself back!

Great, thanks, guys. I will give it a go.

hallum said: I am keen to buy the parts in (I have sourced the replacement silver fascia with switches) Click to expand...

Darran said: Hi Harry, make sure you get the fascia with the correct buttons, more info here: http://www.fiestastoc.com/forums/topic/256082-cruise-control-retro-fitted/?p=3537698 Click to expand...

John Nicholl said: Correct wheel Bargain price too! Click to expand...

Yes the loom is correct. The white plug on your current wheel will be the same, it just wont have as many wires coming from it

Have you got the buttons with the m in the middle of the volume buttons or with the voice icon the m button is no good you need the one with the voice icon

Got the steering wheel in the post yesterday, and so had a look at getting the switches fitted this evening. I removed the top and bottom trims for the steering column to get access to the 2 holes on the back of the steering wheel to remove the airbag. I tried using a flat head screwdriver to press the black airbag clips in toward the centre of the wheel, whilst pulling quite firmly on the airbag but it wouldn't show any sign of budging. I've read quite a few articles on removing it this way but had no luck. I don't really want to pierce holes in the wheel to use to use the other airbag extraction method. Anyone got any tips/tricks on how you removed it?

@ hallum Appears to be some tips here http://www.fiestastoc.com/forums/topic/212906-st-2-cruise-control-retrofit-success/page-6?

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Fiesta Mk7 - Retro Fit "cruise Control"

By BHeart, April 9, 2011 in Ford Fiesta Club

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It's already been discussed on the forum here .

Also written to Ford Technical who would not assist.

Just have a more symmetrical steering wheel now...

It's already been discussed on the forum here . I have got as far as fitting the steering wheels controls and had a mechanic hook up his laptop with Ford IDS software but alas there was not option to activate it Also written to Ford Technical who would not assist. Just have a more symmetrical steering wheel now...

Thanks for your reply.

So it seems that it's not at all possible then?

From your experience when trying to get it fitted, was the wiring already in place and, other that the 'steering controls', did you have to have anything else fitted?

The company listed, carfi.co.uk, actually list the Fiesta Mk7 as a model that it could be fitted to?

I have no doubt carfi can do it for you - but they are installing a totally new system (AP300, AP500, AP800, AP900)

I am trying to get the official Ford system working that comes as standard on a Titanium - would not pay £550 for the system above!

I have taken the steering wheel controls and wiring loom from a Titanium but I have no idea what else is required - no dealers or Ford are willing to assist. Someone who claims to have had it done (and uses it) on another forum just seems to be a wind up as they won't say where they got it done. (See: here )

For this project i bought a Titanium under dash wiring loom

So now i need find it out how the wires goes from the cruise control, and of course for the electric folding mirrors :D

Just need some days :(

Nath - has that guy stumped up the facts yet?

I keep meaning to get in touch with you about your progress, now I know in quite depressed :(

Mike - nah, think he's a wind up merchant :(

3 weeks later...

Not a good news :(

I checked the cruse control wiring... I have not a cruse control on my car, but the wiring is there until the air bag rotary thing

i bought the silver wheel cover with the cruse control switch and the wire to the rotary thing...

After every thing connected and back to the place, nothing happened, when i turn the lights on the cruse control switch light up as the radio control, but not working :(

i asked the Ford to add the cruise control to my car, but they said: unfortunately not possible. The control computer (ECU is one) can be programmed once and can not be overwritten.

I hope they was wrong, i do not think it is true...

I`ll not give up! i need it

You're still at the same stage as me then - got a pretty button on your steering wheel that lights up :)

I like mine now as it's more symmetrical :)

kevin lancelott

I was using cruise control tonight on my way home from work.Sorry just thought I would rub it in for you. :P

iNath you right! Look better symmetrical :D

Kevin, no worry's i use manual cruise control on my :D stand my feet on the side wall

I find this LINK

but i do not like that stick!

That's for the US Fiesta though - not sure it would fit and don't want another stick like you said!

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Volkswagen GTI / Golf MK7 General Topics
GTI & Golf MK7 General Discussions

Vw Golf MK7 retrofitting ACC + Lane assist + OPS, R clocks coding

Thread starter esco_993
Start date Mar 10, 2017

Passed Driver's Ed

Mar 10, 2017

Hello there guys, Posting in regards to retrofit's I've been considering a few and was hoping you could let me know the prices or what's needed or if anyone can help me retrofit message me prices please First is MK7 Golf R clocks to my 1.4 TSI, what would be the things I'd have to look out for in regards to numbers etc and what's the price for fitting (want these because I want a coloured MFD) Secondly I want lane assist, what would be the parts required and also would it be easier for me to add ACC if I add this as I do what to install that too and what's the extra parts needed, I was looking for raders and found the ACC one to be different that the lane assist one but isn't it supposed to go in the bumper... I have also been considering Kessey keyless start retrofit as I've been offered most the parts to retro fit it cheap, found a module + wiring + door handles and button is that all that's needed alongside coding and wiring obv And lastly I've got a pair of park pilot OPS kit that needs to be fitted got it for us model from Ali express but I'm sure I just need a new rhd switch can anyone fit this and a Discover pro system that needs to be coded so what's the prices for that... And lastly guys I've noticed hardly anyone has got TPMS advanced one, anyone considered it.... Also has anyone got blind spot assist seems easy to fit but what parts are required?... Sorry about this being quite long lol but hopefully some of you guys can help, p.s car wasn't new hence why I could get it with desired options and the ones with these options were £3,000 more! Considering half these parts can be located really cheap from the right places thought I'd give this a try, if most can't be done that's fine but worth trying to find out thanks once again for any help, much appreciated

Old Guys Rule

Mar 11, 2017

My opinion is, it's not practical. It would be cheaper to just buy an R with them. I believe you will need at least the following: I don't recognize your term "clocks" since I'm not a Brit. If you're referring to the Infotainment system, someone else will need to answer. Lane Assist requires the front camera hardware, a new windshield, and the A5 driver assist module. ACC requires the front radar emitter/receiver, and grille. KESSY may seem, simple but in addition to the components you mentioned, you need the two transceivers that send/receive RF signals to the keys, and the steering column and sensor parts. The only relatively easy thing to retrofit is Park Pilot. I don't know what TPMS Advanced is. Blind Spot Assist requires the two radar emitter/detectors that mount under the rear bumper cover on each corner, in addition to the outside rear view mirror glass with the indicators. You also might need to strip the paint from the bumper and repaint with radar transparent paint. And the wiring harnesses for all. You would need to remove the seats, rugs, bumpers, mirrors, steering column plastic, probably the lower dash, and hatch trim. This would be a nightmare to get everything working correctly, and probably no dealer will touch a car with this many owner-installed components. They will instantly know your car did come with this equipment. Changing wiring means a dealer won't know if a problem was caused by you or VW.

Mar 12, 2017

The Fed said: My opinion is, it's not practical. It would be cheaper to just buy an R with them. I believe you will need at least the following: I don't recognize your term "clocks" since I'm not a Brit. If you're referring to the Infotainment system, someone else will need to answer. Lane Assist requires the front camera hardware, a new windshield, and the A5 driver assist module. ACC requires the front radar emitter/receiver, and grille. KESSY may seem, simple but in addition to the components you mentioned, you need the two transceivers that send/receive RF signals to the keys, and the steering column and sensor parts. The only relatively easy thing to retrofit is Park Pilot. I don't know what TPMS Advanced is. Blind Spot Assist requires the two radar emitter/detectors that mount under the rear bumper cover on each corner, in addition to the outside rear view mirror glass with the indicators. You also might need to strip the paint from the bumper and repaint with radar transparent paint. And the wiring harnesses for all. You would need to remove the seats, rugs, bumpers, mirrors, steering column plastic, probably the lower dash, and hatch trim. This would be a nightmare to get everything working correctly, and probably no dealer will touch a car with this many owner-installed components. They will instantly know your car did come with this equipment. Changing wiring means a dealer won't know if a problem was caused by you or VW. Click to expand...

Drag Racing Champion

esco_993 said: By the clocks I ment speedo, where the speed is etc, Click to expand...

Mar 13, 2017

DV52 said: esco: By all means fit a new dashboard panel if you want, but you need to understand that the new unit will come with it's own control module which you will need to integrate into your existing CAN network. This process isn't difficult - you will need to find a code-string from another R model as well as a complete set of adaptation channel settings (there will be around 300 channels in the new unit). However, your biggest problem will be what VW call Component Protection . Not sure if you have heard of CP, but it's touted as being VW's answer to the back market for thieved spare parts. Personally, I think it's another process that VW uses to force owners to go to the dealer. So, CP works like this: every time that you switch-on the ignition, the CAN Gateway module in your car checks the identity of a number of key control modules. If these identities are not ALL the same as at the previous ignition switch-on, the Gateway module generates a CP error. The instrument control module is one of these key control modules. What will happen if the CAN Gateway sees a new instrument module is that it will immediately put the dashboard clocks and the dashboard lights into an alarm state: Every light in the dashboard will start to blink and the center display (MFD) will flash the words "Safe CP". You will also get a sequence of audible alarms at ignition switch-on. The ONLY way to remove the CP error is to connect the car (via the OBD port and internet) to VW's FAZIT system back in Germany to check if the part is stolen. Only registered dealers have this capability - VCDS and OBD11 and VCP cables won't work to clear CP errors. So - anticipate a journey to your local stealer and go see the bank manger for a loan (I suspect, equivalent to the annual budget of a small African nation) to remove CP. Don Click to expand...

Talk-torque

Ready to race.

Some really good advice here, from people who know just how much is involved in the changes you want. My thoughts are that, even if you were to succeed, the result would be an oddball car that would have a trade in value less than a standard car, mostly because of the R dash, but also because the car will be obviously messed with. Not good on the forecourt. IMO you would be much better off saving your cash towards a proper R, or whatever, with the bits already fitted and working. If you get too far into this, you could end up with a money pit.

esco_993 said: By the clocks I ment speedo, where the speed is etc, and so if I did fit Lane assist I'd still need a different rader for ACC, I think if ACC only requires grill and rader and wiring and coding obv doesn't seem to complicated lol! I think I'm defo not fitting Kessy then, and TPMS advanced was the one with the button and I'm sure it messures more pressure? And would I need to remove all the Trim listed for OPS Park assist and ACC as I think the 2 I could still defo consider, thank you for the reply Click to expand...

Talk-torque said: Some really good advice here, from people who know just how much is involved in the changes you want. My thoughts are that, even if you were to succeed, the result would be an oddball car that would have a trade in value less than a standard car, mostly because of the R dash, but also because the car will be obviously messed with. Not good on the forecourt. IMO you would be much better off saving your cash towards a proper R, or whatever, with the bits already fitted and working. If you get too far into this, you could end up with a money pit. Click to expand...

The Fed said: If it's Park Pilot, the sensors that beep when you get too close to an object when parking, then I did see the kit for it. As you know, you'll need to drill 8 holes total in your bumpers and run the wiring for them. Perhaps the company selling the kit knows if your car already has the connectors installed or if you need to remove the seats and carpeting and other trim to run the wiring. I don't believe you can get the sensors already painted the color of your car so you would need to do that too. I don't think it's worth the trouble because they don't work that well when parking in a parking lot with curbs or those cement things that stop your tires. If I relied solely on them I would have needed to replace my front bumper many times. And you need to drive at a certain pace when parking for them to activate soon enough to make a difference. Click to expand...

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The instrument control module is one of these key control modules. What will happen if the CAN Gateway sees a new instrument module is that it will immediately put the dashboard clocks and the dashboard lights into an alarm state: Every light in the dashboard will start to blink and the center display (MFD) will flash the words "Safe CP".

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