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A Guide to Vacationing on the Orkney Islands

Quintessentially Scottish coastlines, whiskey distilleries, and Stone Age remains are just a ferry ride away.

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In the North Sea just beyond the tip of Scotland, the Orkney Islands often fail to register with tourists. Almost never are they included on any list of Europe's highlights , but why? Because, despite their "island" title, they don't offer white-sand, umbrella-clad beaches, or a balmy Mediterranean climate à la Greece and Spain?

Instead, this scattered archipelago of 70 islands — two thirds of which are uninhabited — has a time-worn, slightly mystical charm of its own. On the Orkney Islands, visitors are rewarded with storm-battered cliffs, ancient stone circles, and ominous-looking "sea stacks" rising from the churning blue water like swords.

Though the Orkney Islands are just 10 miles off the mainland and entirely accessible by ferry from the northern coast, including from Gills Bay and John O'Groats, or by plane from Aberdeen and major U.K. cities, getting there typically requires a few hours and multiple modes of transportation. The farthest-north ferry terminals (i.e., the ones that offer 40- to 60-minute rides) are at least a 2.5-hour drive from Inverness, and the perhaps more-convenient ferry from Aberdeen to Kirkwall takes six hours. The quickest way to travel to the islands is via a 45-minute flight from Inverness to Kirkwall.

Rest assured, the journey is worth it. On Orkney, you'll find a thriving capital with shops and tour operators, frequent ferry service connecting the islands, and one of Europe's highest concentrations of ancient Neolithic sites , all of which are open to visitors. So, ready to plan a trip? Here's everything you need to know before traveling to the Orkney Islands.

Visit an ancient site.

Mainland (the largest of the Orkney Islands) is packed with prehistoric treasures and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. Start off with a visit to the Ring of Brodgar , a stone circle that, at an estimated 4,500 years old, is similar in age to Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids. Somehow, 27 of its original 60 stones remain standing after all this time, and the experience of walking around these ancient monuments is nothing short of breathtaking.

Nearby Skara Brae is a preserved Stone Age settlement that was uncovered in 1850 when a particularly violent storm blew away all the sand that had concealed it for centuries. Here, you can make out walls and furnishings that were hand-laid by humans more than 5,000 years ago. And if you like the idea of sleeping alongside the prehistoric ruins, it's possible to rent an apartment inside Skaill House , a lovely 17th-century farm manor that sits 600 feet from the archeological site.

Go for a coastal hike.

With the raging North Sea beneath you and a particularly vibrant wildflower display occurring each spring, the Orkney Islands make for very memorable hiking. On western Mainland, you can walk the rugged coastline on a 10-mile path that takes you right to the edge of the cliffs. It offers fantastic views of the sea stacks, those teetering rock formations hewn from the island by the waves.

For something more guided, book a tour with the private company Orkney Uncovered , which offers themed expeditions all over the islands.

Take the world's shortest flight.

Once you've made it to the Orkney Islands from mainland Scotland, there are plenty of ways to get around. Travelers can jump on a bus, catch additional ferries, or head off in a rental car. But much like in the Faroe Islands to the north, there are also inter-island flights, these ones operated by a Scottish airline called Loganair . Among the destinations (like Eday, North Ronaldsay, Sanday, and Stronsay) is a 1.7-mile route that connects Westray to Papa Westray. At just under two minutes, it's officially the world's shortest flight .

Spend the night in Kirkwall.

The capital of Orkney, Kirkwall, is a city rich with culture and history. Records show it was an important trade center as early as the 11th century. Today, it's a bustling commercial hub, with restaurants, bars, theaters, and a nice mix of shops selling locally designed jewelry, crafts, and apparel. At St. Magnus Cathedral , a Viking-era sandstone cathedral dating back to 1137, visitors who sign up for a guided tour are permitted to climb the bell tower. Among Kirkwall's many lodging options are the family-run Ayre Hotel and the Victorian-themed Kirkwall Hotel , which both overlook the marina.

Beyond Kirkwall, it's also worth making the 20-minute drive to Stromness, the second most-populated town in Orkney. With its rows of tiny, centuries-old stone houses set against the water, it boasts one of the dreamiest harbor views in all of Europe.

Go camping in the summer.

With so much open space, it's unsurprising that many travelers want to sleep under the stars during the warmer months. Book a glamping pod or campsite at Wheems Organic Farm , an eco-lodge on a 200-year-old working farm. The property faces the sea on the island South Ronaldsay, offering unparalleled views of the surrounding cliffs and, depending on the time of year, the Northern Lights . While the property's winning feature is its remoteness, a causeway connects South Ronaldsay to Mainland, so you're never more than a half-hour drive back to Kirkwall.

Drink Scottish whiskey.

In true Scottish fashion, there are several whiskey distilleries on the Orkney Islands. Most famous of them is Highland Park , which until recently was the U.K.'s northernmost distillery. ( Kimbland Distillery , on the Orkney island of Sanday, is about 20 miles further north.) Highland Park's single malt has won numerous awards and accolades — and, because it's been making the stuff since 1798, no one is really questioning the distillery's expertise. During a tour of the facilities, visitors learn all about how the barley is steeped in water fresh from a nearby creek, then aged in Spanish oak casks seasoned with sherry. And yes, the tour ends with a tasting.

Away With Maja

The complete orkney guide: an 8-day itinerary for the orkney islands.

The ancient houses at Skara Brae on Orkney.

My trip to Orkney was one of the best of my life. There is so much to see and do on this cluster of islands, just off the north coast of Scotland . I had 8 days to explore Orkney, and packed in a lot into this short amount of time! While I loved my adventures around the Mainland, the Barrier Islands, South Ronaldsay, Hoy , Papa Westray , and Westray , there was still so much I missed out on – Rousay, Sanday, and Stronsay, to name a few.

A beautiful sunset at the Sands of Evie beach on Orkney.

I had a day each on Hoy, Papa Westray, and Westray, with the rest of my time split over the Mainland and exploring the Barrier Islands and South Ronaldsay. Having your own car will definitely open up a lot of possibilities, and it’ll mean you can see so much more of Orkney – so I do recommend driving. This trip itinerary would have looked very different if I’d been relying on public transportation to get around.

If you’re after the ultimate guide to what to see in Orkney, this is the post for you! Here’s an 8-day itinerary to see the best of the Orkney Islands.

The pretty town of Stromness, as seen from the ferry in the harbor.

Table of Contents

What to See on West Mainland, Orkney

For many people (myself included), Stromness is the first taste of Orkney – the Northlink ferry from Scrabster arrives here. You can learn about local history at Stromness Museum . I really liked the exhibits on maritime history during the World Wars, and the exhibit on John Rae, who was an Arctic explorer from Orkney. It costs £5 for adults.

Maja sat on the trig point at the summit of Brinkies Brae, overlooking Stromness.

Make sure to head up Brinkie’s Brae for incredible views. This hill isn’t very high (94 meters), but on a clear day it’s phenomenal. There is a signpost from the road to help you find the path – it does go right next to someone’s garden – and took me about 30 minutes, including lots of time taking photos at the summit.

Blue water and white sand at Sands of Evie Beach in Orkney.

Sands of Evie

This might be one of my favorite beaches on Orkney. Just outside of the village of Evie, you’ll find this expansive stretch of sand with views out to Rousay. I loved going for a quick swim here! This is a great place to catch the sunset, too.

Stone walls at the Broch of Gurness on Orkney.

Broch of Gurness

This is an ancient historic site, perched right on the coast. The Broch of Gurness is an Iron Age broch village, and one of the most impressive. You can walk around the main broch itself, and through the remains of the broch village – including a toilet. It dates back over 2,000 years and is run by Historic Scotland, so there is an admission charge.

Kirbuster Museum

Wondering what life was like in rural Orkney in the 19th and early 20th centuries? Kirbuster Museum showcases farm life in Orkeny – the farmhouse was occupied until the 1960s, and has a central hearth with a peat fire, a stone neuk bed, and very pretty gardens. Admission is free.

Maja at the road sign pointing to Twatt, on Orkney.

Of course this post wouldn’t be complete without paying homage to Twatt now, would it?! One of the main reasons I came to Orkney was to take a picture with this sign. And yes, I pre-planned my Twatt content and brought pictures of my ex-husband to have a photoshoot with here, ha! There is a Twatt sign with an arrow in Abune-the-Hill , which is a must. There is no welcome sign in Twatt itself, but I highly recommend you stop at Twatt Church, too.

Shelves of bottles in the shop at Orkney Brewery.

Orkney Brewery

A lot of Scotland is focused on whisky when it comes to producing alcohol – but there’s plenty of great beer, too. Head to Orkney Brewery and you can tour their brewery – samples included – or just stop by their Tasting Hall for lunch. Beers in the shop are very reasonably priced (£2.30 each!), and my favorite so far is the Puffin beer.

The tidal island of the Brough of Birsay at low tide, connected by a causeway.

Brough of Birsay

One of the most unique spots to visit on Orkney is the Brough of Birsay. This is an island just off the mainland, and is connected to the shore by a tidal causeway. It’s safe to cross about 2 hours either side of low tide, and make sure to check the tide times in advance so you don’t get stuck. There are remains of a Pictish settlement and church/monastery to explore, and a lighthouse. Head past the lighthouse and you might be lucky enough to spot some puffins!

The ruins of the Earl's Palace in Birsay, on Orkney.

Earl’s Palace, Birsay

Birsay is a very small village, but make sure to stop and see the remains of the Earl’s Palace. While it’s mainly in ruins now, this was once a fine castle and home to the Earl of Orkney (the half-brother of Mary Queen of Scots). It’s free to visit.

The ancient houses at Skara Brae on Orkney.

Skara Brae is one of the most famous historic sites on Orkney. It’s a top Orkney attraction and part of the UNESCO Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. This ancient settlement is the most complete Neolithic village in Europe, and was occupied from 3180 to 2500 BCE. You can walk around the individual houses, and even see some of the remaining furniture. The visitor center has an excellent exhibit on what life was like for the people living here, and how it was discovered after a storm in 1850.

This can be a busy site as it sees a lot of cruise ship/coach visitors. Visiting in the morning or late afternoon will be the quietest times. Skara Brae is run by Historic Scotland and there is an admission charge. Admission also covers entry to Skaill House , a 17th-century mansion. The house is set up to show how it functioned as a family home in the 1950s, with lots of information on the people who owned the property and lived here.

White sand and bright blue water at Skaill Beach on Orkney.

Skaill Beach

This is another incredible beach on Mainland Orkney. White sand stretches in a curved arc all around the bay. You’ll get a great view from Skara Brae, but it’s also a great place to go for a walk or even swim. There’s a car park and toilet here.

The cliffs at Marwick Head, with Kitchener's Memorial, on the Orkney coast.

Marwick Head and Kitchener Memorial

There’s a great coastal walk around Marwick Head – approximately 2.5 miles and it took me about 1 hour and 15 minutes in total. You can start at either the RSPB Marwick Head car park, or the Kitchener Memorial car park. As Marwick Head is an RSPB reserve, bring your binoculars – you’ll hopefully see lots of seabirds here!

The stone tower of the Kitchener Memorial at Marwick Head.

The Kitchener Memorial rises from the rocky cliffs, and can be seen from many different spots on the western coast. In 1916, Lord Kitchener’s ship (the HMS Hampshire ) was struck by a mine laid by a German submarine, and the ship sank with a loss of 700 lives. Only 12 people survived. Lord Kitchener was very well-known as the poster boy (literally) for army recruitment during World War I in Britain. The memorial was built in 1926, and in 2016 an additional wall, commemorating all the men who were killed, was built.

Maja at the seastack on Yesnaby Cliffs on Orkney, Scotland.

Yesnaby Cliffs

Yesnaby is another spot on the coast of West Mainland of Orkney that can’t be missed. The rocky cliffs lead you south from the car park to Yesnaby Castle, a sea stack with a notable hole in the base. It took me about 50 minutes from the car park to the best part of the coast around the sea stack – but you can certainly carry on the coast even longer here.

Islands and grass along the shore of the Loch of Harray on Orkney.

Loch of Harray

The Loch of Harray is the largest loch on Mainland Orkney, and is a very peaceful place in comparison to the busier sites along the coast. There’s a car park and picnic area with a viewpoint, and there’s a short walk on boardwalks to see more of the marshy area that juts out into the loch.

The standing stones of the Ring of Brodgar on a clear morning in Orkney.

Ring of Brodgar Stone Circle

This is one of the most unbelievable place to visit on Orkney: the Ring of Brodgar is a massive stone circle, dating back to 2500 BCE and with 36 stones left standing today. This is, quite simply, one of the most magnificent sites I’ve ever visited. The stone circle is 104 meters in diameter, and is one of the most phenomenal stone circles in Britain. It’s free to visit, and open 24/7 – I recommend coming in the early morning or late evening. I had the entire place to myself when I showed up at 8:30am! In World War II, the Ring of Bordgar was used for tank training – the tanks practiced maneuvering around the ancient stones.

The standing stones that make up the Ring of Brodgar in Orkney.

The Ring of Brodgar is part of the UNESCO Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. If you’re interested in seeing more archaeology up close, check out the Ness of Brodgar . This site has been undergoing excavation since 2004, and members of the public can sometimes visit and see the excavations on site .

Maja walking and smiling at the Standing Stones of Stenness on Orkney.

Standing Stones of Stenness

This superb stone circle only has 4 stones left standing today, but there was originally comprised of 12 stones. It was built about 5,400 years ago, and is also part of the UNESCO Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. In 1814, the farmer leasing the land started to pull the stones down. The locals were so mad that they attempted to burn his house down – twice. Like the Ring of Brodgar, the site is run by Historic Scotland but free to visit, any time of day. This is one place you can’t miss on Orkney.

Excavations of the Barnhouse Settlement at Stenness.

Just a few minutes’ walk away is the Barnhouse Settlement , where you can see the remains of a village overlooking the Loch of Stenness.

The entrance to Unstan Chambered Cairn.

Unstan Chambered Carin

A short drive from the Standing Stones of Stennes, you’ll find Unstan Chambered Cairn. Crawl into the gateway and you’ll find yourself in a rounded Neolithic tomb – there are modern windows built into the mound, so its light inside. Pottery is the most important artifacts that were found here. l To get here, follow what seems to be someone’s driveway through to a small car park. There is room for 2-3 cars.

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to visit Maeshowe on my Orkney trip. Entrance is by guided tour only, and as they had only recently reopened for the season, it was completely booked up for several weeks in advance. This is one of the finest chambered cairns in Europe, and dates back to about 2800 BCE. It’s also part of the UNESCO Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. Don’t make my mistake, make sure you book well in advance ! It’s run by Historic Scotland, and there is a charge for the tour/admission.

The grassy mound at the entrance of Cuween Chambered Cairn.

Cuween Hill Chambered Cairn

Grab the flashlight from the box and crawl on your hands and knees to enter Cuween Hill Chambered Cairn. This Neolithic tomb is 5,000 years old – when it was excavated in 1901, they found the skulls of 24 dogs buried here. It’s a steep climb up from the parking area, but the views over this part of Mainland Orkney are wonderful.

The trig point at the top of Wideford Hill on Orkney.

Wideford Hill and Chambered Cairn

Just outside of Kirkwall, Wideford Hill dominates the landscape. At 225 meters high, you’ll have an excellent view over the city from here – a trig point marks the summit. I found it impossible to find any information on parking here, so please note that there are two areas where you can park your car. At the top of Wideford Hill, there is room for about 2 cars (the spot is listed as Wideford Hill Scenic View on GoogleMaps ). Just below that, there is space for 2 or maybe 3 cars at the bend in the road. There is a small Historic Scotland sign here that says this is where you should park to visit the cairn.

The stone layers of the exterior of Wideford Hill Chambered Cairn.

Wideford Hill Chambered Cairn is on the west side of the hill – there’s a well-trodden, easy-to-follow path from where you park to get to the cairn. But it will take at least 10-15 minutes to get there, and I recommend having sturdy footwear. It’s definitely worth the trek though: you enter this cairn through a hatch in the roof of the mound!! There is a flashlight in a box, you pull open the hatch, and descend into the cairn by a short ladder. It’s a tight squeeze, so I recommend leaving any backpacks outside. Look out for the Neolithic graffiti while you’re in the cairn.

The vast sandy beach at Waulkmill Bay, Orkney.

Waulkmill Bay

Is this the best beach on Mainland Orkney? My jaw dropped when I first saw Waulkmill Bay – a huge expanse of perfect sand. It’s simply spectacular, and I loved going for a swim here! There is parking off the side of the road by the toilet, where you’ll follow the steep steps down to the sand. I could have spent the entire day here, alternating between swimming in the crystal-clear sea and lounging on the sand.

The remains of the Earl's Bu and Church in Orphir, Orkney.

There are two places of interest to visit in Orphir. The first is the Orkneyinga Saga Center , which has an exhibition about the Norse Earls of Orkney. A narrative of the political history of Orkney (and Shetland), the Orkneyinga Saga goes into great details about various events in the Viking era. The center is free to visit and there is a film you can watch, although it is a few decades old.

The other main attraction to visit in Orphir is the ruins of the Earl’s Bu and Church . This was the setting for one of the events in the Orkneyinga Saga, and is one of only two round churches in all of Scotland. The ruins are right behind the exhibition center and free to visit.

A pretty but quiet street in Kirkwall, Orkney.

What to See in Kirkwall, Orkney

As the main town in the Orkney Islands, I think Kirkwall deserves its own section!

The red brick St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall.

St. Magnus Cathedral

A beautiful red brick building in the center of Kirkwall, St. Magnus Cathedral can’t be missed. It was founded in 1137, and was named after Saint Magnus, who was killed on Orkney in the early 1100s and became a martyr. The cathedral is free to visit – the interior is just beautiful.

The tower of St. Magnus Cathedral through the ruins of the Bishop's Palace in Kirkwall, Orkney.

Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces

The Bishop’s Palace and the Earl’s Palace are right across the street from one another – both are run by Historic Scotland (who charge an admission fee). The Bishop’s Palace was built in the early 1100s, and today it’s really only the ground floor that remains. The Earl’s Palace is much larger – it was built in the early 1600s by the Earl of Orkney. There’s more to see here, such as large fireplaces, the earl’s chambers, and a beautiful large staircase.

Orkney Museum

I was completely blown away by the Orkney Museum – there is SO much to see here! I’d recommend setting aside at least 1 hour for your visit. The museum covers the history of Orkney from the prehistoric age, all the way up to the 20th century! It’s free to visit, but well worth a donation at the end.

The balls at the entrance to Orkney Library in Kirkwall.

Orkney Library

I visited Orkney Library mainly because I follow them on Twitter , and they’re hilarious. I had to see the balls for myself. No regrets.

Judith Glue Shop

This is an excellent shop with all sorts of local gifts, clothing, knitwear, and souvenirs you can pick up. I stocked up on some puffin items – there’s also a good selection of Twatt merchandise. They also have a café at the back of the shop and lots of local produce!

Archive Coffee

This café looks tiny from the outside, but it’s a huge space inside! An excellent choice for breakfast, brunch, or just coffee, Archive is my top pick in Kirkwall. Get the peanut butter cup pancakes, trust me.

If you’re after a hearty meal in a classic pub setting, head to Helgi’s by the waterfront. The food here is delicious, the service was quick and the staff were really friendly. If you’re looking for an evening meal, I recommend booking in advance.

Hot chocolate with a pattern at Orkney Distillery.

Orkney Distillery

Right on Kirkwall harbor, you’ll find the Orkney Distillery and visitor center – the home of Orkney gin. They offer distillery tours as well as gin-making classes. But the café/bar at the front is also a great choice for a drink, or whiling away a rainy afternoon.

The stone exterior and gates at Highland Park Distillery in Kirkwall.

Highland Park Distillery

This is the northernmost Scotch whisky distillery in the country – so it’s not one to miss. It’s located just outside of Kirkwall (about a mile), and access is only available if you’ve booked one of their guided tours. They have a well-stocked whisky shop on Albert Street in the center of Kirkwall.

Whisky bottles in a case in the shop at the Scapa Distillery, Orkney.

Scapa Distillery

Scapa Distillery is home to (possibly) my favorite whisky in the entire world: the Scapa Skiren. Of course I had to visit and buy a bottle at the distillery itself! They do offer distillery tours/tastings (book in advance), and I’d recommend checking the shop opening times before you visit. It’s about 2 miles from the center of Kirkwall. While you’re there, stop by Scapa Beach ! This beach looks out to Scapa Bay – check locally for any exciting recent whale or dolphin spottings.

Green seaweed and a shipwreck at Inganess Beach (Sands of Wideford).

What to See on East Mainland, Orkney

Inganess beach/sands of wideford.

This is a quiet beach, just outside of Kirkwall and down the road from Kirkwall Airport. The view is dominated by the rusting wreck of Juniata, a World War II ship. There’s a small car park here, and a few quiet walks you can do nearby.

Remains of buildings along the coast at Rerwick Head on Orkney.

Rerwick Head

The road to get here isn’t the best, but Rerwick Head is a quiet place with a fascinating history. You’ll probably have it all to yourself! There’s a small car park, from where you can head on a short walk around the old WWII gun battery. You can see what’s left of the camps and barracks, lookout posts, and the gun batteries themselves. Don’t enter any of the buildings though, as they might not be safe.

Dingieshowe

This is a spectacular beach, connecting Mainland Orkney with Deerness. There is a car park here with toilets, and you can then head over the dunes and onto the sand for spectacular views across the isthmus. There are signs up about erosion here, so please stick to the paths and I’d discourage camping here.

Deerness Distillery

This small gin and vodka distillery is on the Deerness peninsula in Orkney. The distillery can offer short tours/samples (no charge!!) when they’re open. If you can’t visit in person, they do have an online shop!

The sandy beach at Newark Bay beach on the Deerness peninsula, Orkney.

This is a beautiful, quiet stretch of sand, with great views out over to other islands. You can do a short coastal walk along the Point of Ayre here – I also saw a few windsurfers in the evening when I went!

Coastal scenery and the Brough of Deerness around Mull Head on Orkney.

One of the best places to see on the Deerness Peninsula is Mull Head. I loved hiking here – it’s an RSPB reserve, so I saw quite a few seabirds including puffins! The walk starts off in the car park by the visitor center, and passes the Gloup , a dramatic collapsed sea cave. It then heads along the coast to the Broch of Deerness – you can usually explore the ruins yourself, but unfortunately the path was closed due to a landslide when I was there.

The Covenanter's Memorial, near Mull Head, on Orkney.

Carry on around Mull Head and down the western coast, where you’ll find the Covenanter’s Memorial . In 1679, a ship of Covenanters, who were prisoners being transported, was wrecked off the coast. Over 200 of them died as they were trapped inside and unable to escape the sinking ship. There is a small car park close to the memorial, but the hike takes you back to Mull Head.

The hike is about 6.5 miles and took me around 2.5 hours.

The Totem Pole at St. Mary's near the Churchill Barriers on Orkney.

St. Mary’s Totem Pole

At the very tip of Mainland Orkney, just before you go over the Churchill Barriers, you can find an intricately carved totem pole. This totem pole was placed here as part of a community project between locals and members of the Squamish First Nations people of Canada. It seems a bit random, but it’s worth stopping!

A road going across one of the Churchill Barriers in Orkney.

What to See on the Barrier Islands and South Ronaldsay, Orkney

I decided to combine this group of islands in one, as they’re all connected to each other and the Mainland thanks to the barriers!

Churchill Barriers

A marvel of engineering, the Churchill Barriers were built during World War II in an effort to close off Scapa Flow to enemy submarines. Much of the work constructing the barriers was actually carried out by Italian prisoners of war. The barriers serve as road links between the Mainland, Lamb Holm, Glimps Holm, Burray, and South Ronaldsay. There are quite a few shipwrecks around the bridges, which are meant to be excellent for diving. Driving over the barriers is so cool – it is such a unique Orkney experience, and can’t be missed.

The ornate white and red exterior of the Italian Chapel on Orkney.

Italian Chapel

On the side of the road on the island of Lamb Holm, you’ll find this poignant and ornate little Catholic chapel. It was built by the Italian POWs during World War II, and was transformed from two Nissen huts into this beautiful chapel by Domenico Chiocchetti. The interior is stunning – you’d never expect it!! In 2014, unfortunately three of the Station of the Cross were stolen from the Italian Chapel. This shocked the local community – CCTV was installed, and there’s now an admission charge to enter (£3.50 for adults). This is one of the top attractions in Orkney, and with good reason.

Orkney Wine Company

Did you know Orkney had it’s own winery?! Right next to the Italian Chapel, you’ll find the Orkney Wine Company. They make red, white, and rosé fruit wines – along with J. Gow rum. The staff in the shop are happy to offer a few samples so you can do a taste test.

Orkney Fossil and Heritage Center

Located on Burray, you can take a trip back in time at the Orkney Fossil and Heritage Center. This is probably one of the best museums on Orkney for geology and fossils – they also have exhibitions focused on heritage, such as Scapa Flow and the Churchill Barriers. The admission charge is about £5 for adults.

One of the Churchill Barrier bridges connecting the islands of Orkney.

Just north of the museum, make sure to stop in the layby on the A961 road for a great view over the Barrier Islands. It’s listed as “free car park” on Google Maps , but you might want to save the pin.

A costume display at the Smiddy Museum in St. Mary's, Orkney.

St. Margaret’s Hope

St. Margaret’s Hope is the main town on South Ronaldsay, and it’s where the Pentland Ferries boat arrives from Gills Bay. While you’re here, stop into the Smiddy Museum – it’s a small place, but it’s full of local history. I loved seeing the costumes and photo archives of the Festival of the Horse and Boys’ Ploughing Match, which takes place on South Ronaldsay. The museum is only open from 2-4:30pm, and costs £2 for adults.

Sands o'Wright beach on South Ronaldsay, Orkney.

Sands of Wright

This is one of the most spectacular beaches on the Orkney islands. A curved bay with picturesque white sand, it’s just outside of St. Margaret’s Hope and has plenty of parking and toilets. Unfortunately I visited it on an overcast and cloudy afternoon, but the water looks just stunning in the sunlight! This is where the Festival of the Horse and Boys’ Ploughing Match takes places each year. There’s also a short walk here to see a small lake and the Dam of Hoxa.

Former WWII buildings at Hoxa Head.

This is a fantastic short walk, where you can see the World War II-era batteries and defenses, as well as great views of the coastline. Head along the coast to see the Hoxa Battery and the Balfour Battery – the buildings are very unsafe, so please don’t enter them. I loved the coastal views here, plus I got to see Pentland Ferries making the journey between St. Margaret’s Hope and the Scottish Mainland! The walk took me 40 minutes and is under 2 miles.

St. Peter’s Church

This is a small church, but it’s really the coastal access that counts. There’s a great view here to the Pool of Cletts, and you can start the coastal walk down the east coast of South Ronaldsay. The walk is about 9 miles, and there is space for parking at the church.

Olav’s Wood

On the small road to St. Peter’s Church, you’ll see a small parking area for two cars and a path leading into woodland. There aren’t that many trees on Orkney, so this little space is a rarity – there’s a burn that runs through the woods. It’s a peaceful place for a stop.

The dramatic cliffs along Windwick Bay on Orkney.

Windwick Bay

Windwick Bay is another incredible beach on Orkney. While it’s a pebble beach and not as good as others for swimming, it’s certainly worth a stop for the dramatic cliffs and seastacks here. It’s meant to be a great place to spot seals! There is a memorial here to the Navy men that lost their lives in a double shipwreck here in 1918.

The entrance to the Tomb of the Otters (Banks Chambered Cairn) on Orkney.

Tomb of the Otters (Banks Chambered Cairn)

This tomb was recently discovered in a car park in 2010 – several thousand human bones were found, as well as otter droppings. Access is only by a guided tour, which is definitely worth it. The tour guide I had told me all about the site, the history, how it was found, and lots of general local information about Orkney. It costs £7.50 for adults. The tomb is located in the car park next to Skerries Bistro, which I would also definitely recommend. Don’t miss their Orkney fudge cheesecake!

One of the best attractions on South Ronaldsay is the Tomb of the Eagles. Unfortuantely, this is permanently closed until further notice. Check their website for any updates.

Maja standing on a cliff above the Old Man of Hoy in Orkney.

What to See on Hoy, Orkney

You can read my full guide to visiting Hoy here . But I also thought I’d share some of the best spots on the island in this post. I spent one day here and stayed overnight, which I really recommend. A daytrip is just so short!

Hoy Heritage Center (Hoy Kirk)

This small local heritage center is in a converted church, just outside Moaness. They have a few exhibitons on the history of the island and the community, as well as housing the community archive. There’s no entrance charge.

The Dwarfie Stane rock on Hoy, Orkney.

Dwarfie Stane

This is a prehistoric tomb, located about 500 meters (across boardwalks) from the road. The stone is big enough that you can crawl into it! Keep an eye out for some historic graffiti inside, too.

The Old Man of Hoy seastack on Orkney.

Old Man of Hoy

Of course, the main reason people come to Hoy is to see the Old Man of Hoy itself. This impressive seastack is the highest in Europe, and one of the top attractions on the Orkney islands. It was one of the main reasons I wanted to visit Orkney and Hoy!

Rugged scenery in Rackwick Glen on the way to Rackwick Bay, Hoy.

You have to hike to the Old Man of Hoy from Rackwick Bay, which is about 3 miles each way. It’s a steep climb up from the bay, but the views are phenomenal. The Old Man of Hoy, which is really popular with climbers (!), is a sight to behold. It’s also an RSPB reserve, and you can spot seabirds (including puffins!) here. You absolutely cannot miss this when visiting Hoy and Orkney.

Rocks leading to the sandy beach at Rackwick Bay on Hoy, Orkney.

Rackwick Bay

This is a beautiful sandy beach on Hoy – it has a dramatic backdrop of steep cliffs behind it. On a clear day, you can see Dunnet Head on the Scottish mainland! There is a bothy here, which I highly recommend staying in. Rackwick Bay is accessible by a good single-track road that connects to the rest of Hoy, or by hiking from Moaness through Rackwick Glen.

The Scapa Flow Museum in Lyness is the main attraction on Hoy. It recently reopened after an extensive renovation, and is meant to be excellent – with exhibitions covering Orkney’s history during World War II, and the history of Scapa Flow itself. If you’re in Longhope, stop by the RNLI Longhope Lifeboat Museum .

A white sand beach with bright blue water on Westray, near Noup Head.

What to See on Westray, Orkney

A trip to the North Isles is definitely worth a few days in your Orkney itinerary! I only spent a day on Westray, but I’m so glad I visited here. Read my Westray guide here !

Bright blue water on the harbor in Pierowall, Westray, Orkney.

Pierowall is the main village on Westray, with two shops and the most options for food. Stop by the Lady Kirk , admire the views from the harbor, and make sure you visit the Westray Heritage Center. This local museum is home to the Westray Wife, a Neolithic figurine that is the oldest carving of a human in the country!! It’s tiny in real life, but so cool to see. There’s an admission charge of £3 here.

The stone building with defensive arrow holes on Westray.

Noltland Castle

Just outside of Pierowall, you can visit this castle that dates back to the 1500s. A lot of it is in ruins now, but there’s still several parts you can explore – keep your eyes peeled for the gun holes dotted along the walls. It’s free to visit.

The white sands of Grobust Beach on Westray, Orkney.

This is possibly the best beach on Westray – long stretches of fine white sand. I was blown away by how beautiful it was, and how quiet it was! The Links of Noltland archaeological site is next ot the beach.

Noup Head Lighthouse and the coast of Westray, Orkney.

This is an RSPB reserve, and home to one of the biggest colonies of gannets in the country! I also saw plenty of puffins here, as well as other seabirds. I did a great 4.5-mile hike along the coast to the lighthouse and back, starting and ending at Backarass Farm.

Puffins on the cliff at the Castle O'Burrian on Westray.

Castle o’Burrian

This is one of the best places to see puffins in the UK! I did a sunset puffin tour here with Andy and Karen of Westraak Tours , which was one of the best experiences I had on Orkney. It was so special to see so many puffins, and see them up close! Even if you’re not visiting in puffin season, this is a great place for a short coastal walk.

What to See on Papa Westray, Orkney

I visited Papa Westray for the day, mainly as I wanted to do the shortest commercial flight in the world ! Here’s what to do on the island. Check out my Papa Westray guide , too.

Knap of Howar

This is the oldest preserved Neolithic settlement in Northern Europe – it’s 500 years older than Skara Brae! It’s simply incredible, and is a must-see on the island. It’s free to visit, and you’re able to walk in the stone houses, too.

St. Boniface Church and the graveyard on Papa Westray.

St. Boniface Kirk

This church dates back to the 8th century, and you can see a 12th-century Norse hogback grave in the cemetery. It underwent a restoration in the 1990s, and is still used for events and services today.

The ruins of St. Tredwell's Chapel next to the loch on Papa Westray.

Loch of St. Tredwell

This loch is the largest body of water on Papa Westray. It also has the ruins of a small chapel on a peninsula, which juts out into the loch. St. Tredwell’s Chapel is really just heaps of stone ruins now, but it used to be a pilgrimage center in Orkney.

Maja at the northernmost point of Papa Westray, Orkney.

Coastal Walk

I definitely recommend hiking along the northern part of the island – Papa Westray is small enough that you can walk around most of the island in a day. I started from the Knap of Howar and hiked up the western coast, past the RSPB North Hill reserve, before reaching the northernmost point and continuing down the eastern coast to the Kelp Store. If you want to see puffins, I recommend going to the Head of Moclett, by the ferry terminal.

A puffin next to grass around the Head of Moclett on Papa Westray, Orkney.

My best puffin sightings on Papa Westray were at the Head of Moclett, so don’t miss it!

Holm of Papay

A boat trip out to the Holm of Papay is a must if you’re visiting Papa Westray. This was a real highlight from my Orkney trip! Jonathan, the Papay Ranger , will organize a boat trip over to the Holm of Papay for you. There’s a large cairn with graffiti inside – I had about 2 hours to explore the Holm of Papay, and it was a perfect amount of time. This excursion cost £25.

The back end of a North Link ferry going to Orkney.

Planning Your Trip to Orkney

The Orkney Islands are located just north of the Scottish mainland, and accessible by ferry or by flying into Kirkwall Airport. Loganair has direct flights from several cities in the UK. There are four options for ferries: Scrabster to Stromness (North Link Ferries), Gills Bay to St. Margaret’s Hope (Pentland Ferries), Aberdeen to Kirkwall (North Link Ferries), and the foot-passenger ferry from John o’Groats to Burwick (Jog Ferry). Make sure to check out my post on what to know before visiting Orkney to help plan logistics of your trip.

There are no trains here, although the Mainland has a network of buses that aim to link up with the various ferry schedules. For other islands, check locally if they have any buses and when they run. I highly recommend having a car, at least on the Mainland, to make jam-packed itineraries like this possible. I didn’t have a car on Hoy, Papa Westray, or Westray, and managed just fine – although I did miss a few things on Hoy, and I did rent a bike for the day on Westray. But I drove everywhere on the Mainland, so I absolutely suggest having your own set of wheels.

A green tent camping on the coast of Orkney.

I wild camped for the majority of my Orkney trip. Wild camping is legal in Scotland provided you follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code . This includes leaving no trace (including fires), camping only in small groups, and only spending a short number of nights in one place. I only ever camped for one night at each location.

Two twin beds in a room at the hostel on Papa Westray.

On Papa Westray, I stayed at the hostel, Beltane House . This was a fantastic place to stay, connected to the village shop, and also a community hub. I’d absolutely stay here again! On Westray, I stayed at Chalmersquoy Hostel , which was excellent.

Rackwick Bay Bothy (Burnmouth) on Hoy, Orkney.

I stayed at Burnmouth bothy (at Rackwick Bay) for my night on Hoy. Find out everything you need to know about bothies in my guide !

A sea view from the window of the hostel in Chalmersquoy, Westray.

There are so many unique accommodation options on Mainland Orkney. If you’re relying on public transportation, I’d recommend basing yourself in Kirkwall (or maybe Stromness). I met several people who stayed at one of the hostels in Kirkwall. You can search for Kirkwall accommodation here , and Stromness accommodation here . Use the map below for all the options available!

orkney travel to

Orkney is one of the best places I’ve ever visited. It is so unique, with so much to see and do – from wild coastal walks to ancient sites and amazing wildlife. I easily could have spent another week here, it really is incredible. I hope this blog post helps you in planning your trip to Orkney!

Have you ever visited Orkney before? Is it on your bucket list?

You might also like my posts:

Orkney: What You Need to Know Before You Go

How Much Does it Cost to Visit Orkney on a Budget?

What to Pack For a Trip to Orkney, Scotland

Where to See Puffins on Orkney

What to See and Do on Westray, Orkney

A Travel Guide For Papa Westray, Orkney

Hoy, Orkney: Visiting the Old Man of Hoy and Rackwick Bay

The World’s Shortest Commercial Flight: Papa Westray to Westray With Loganair

A 7-Day Itinerary for Scotland’s North Coast 500 Road Trip

All of my Scotland posts!

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The World’s Shortest Commercial Flight: Papa Westray to Westray With Loganair

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17 thoughts on “ the complete orkney guide: an 8-day itinerary for the orkney islands ”.

[…] is one of the small North Isles that make up the Orkney archipelago, off the north coast of Scotland. So many people skip these islands or don’t have […]

[…] Westray is one of the smallest inhabited islands in Orkney, the incredible archipelago off the north coast of Scotland. It’s only about 4 miles long, and 1 […]

[…] so many others, I visited Orkney in the hopes of seeing the Old Man of Hoy. At 449ft (137m), this is the tallest sea stack in […]

[…] trip to Orkney in June was one of the top highlights of my year, my (nearly) 6 years living in the UK, and […]

[…] of the top reasons I was obsessed with visiting Orkney? I wanted to take the shortest commercial flight in the world, which is between two of the small […]

[…] much things cost. I tally up every meal, every beer – everything I spend money on. My trip to Orkney was no different! I planned my trip to be a budget trip – I wild camped for the vast majority of […]

[…] trip to Orkney in June was the adventure of a lifetime. I had so many bucket list experiences and got to see and […]

[…] This was one of the most exciting, fascinating, and rewarding destinations I have ever been to. Orkney is one of those places where you have to want to go there – you don’t just end up there by […]

[…] place: Orkney, an archipelago of islands off the northern coast of Scotland, is an unimaginable […]

Thanks for all your posts on the Orkneys! I’m just starting my research for a trip in August (my 3rd to Scotland) and you’ve provided so much useful information.

Thanks so much for your comment, I love hearing that! I hope you have an amazing trip to Orkney, it really is such a special destination 🙂

Hi Maja! This post is amazing. We are going to be on Orkney for a week in September. Then we have another week to see some other parts of Scotland. Your post is by far the most helpful one I’ve seen on Orkney. THANK YOU. Did you buy that Historic Scotland pass?? Was it worthwhile?

Hi Mike, thanks for reading and I’m so glad you found the post useful! I didn’t buy the Historic Scotland pass as I already had an English Heritage membership, which does reciprocal free entry for members 🙂 I’d say if you’re going to be going to all the big sites on Orkney (Skara Brae, Maeshowe, etc) and one or two other Historic Scotland sites in the country (like Stirling Castle), you’d probably save money. Assuming you like historic sites that is, haha! You can always check the entry fees for all the sites you’re planning to visit and total them up to compare with the membership price. Orkney is incredible, hope you have a fab trip! 🙂

[…] a lot of money on attractions and sightseeing. I also would have loved to extend the trip and visit Orkney – I ended up going here for over a week on another trip! You can visit as a daytrip, but I really […]

[…] days doing the NC500. If you’re wanting a bit of a detour, definitely make the trip over to Orkney! A lot of people visit as a daytrip, but I recommend at least 3 days – ideally, you should have […]

[…] loads of photos on Instagram, I decided to break up the drive down south (on my way back from Orkney) with a walk out to Loch Glass, to see the pretty pink house located on the shore of the loch near […]

[…] wrote nine different posts about my trip to Orkney – and in the last year, they have started ranking and pulling in the good numbers. I’ve […]

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Midhowe cairn and broch, Rousay.

Justin Foulkes

There’s a magic to Orkney that you begin to feel as soon as the Scottish mainland slips astern. Only a few short miles of ocean separate the chain of islands from Scotland's north coast, but the Pentland Firth is one of Europe’s most dangerous waterways, a graveyard of ships that adds an extra mystique to these islands shimmering in the sea mists.

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Viking settlement at Skara Brae, Orkney islands, Scotland, Uk

Predating Stonehenge and the pyramids of Giza, extraordinary Skara Brae is one of the world's most evocative prehistoric sites, and northern Europe’s best…

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Constructed about 5000 years ago, Maeshowe is an extraordinary place, a Stone Age tomb built from enormous sandstone blocks, some of which weighed many…

Tomb of the Eagles

Tomb of the Eagles

Two significant archaeological sites were found here by a farmer on his land. The first is a Bronze Age stone building with a firepit, indoor well and…

St Magnus Cathedral

St Magnus Cathedral

Constructed from local red sandstone, Kirkwall's centrepiece, dating from the early 12th century, is among Scotland's most interesting cathedrals. The…

Midhowe Cairn & Broch

Midhowe Cairn & Broch

Six miles from the ferry on Rousay, mighty Midhowe Cairn has been dubbed the 'Great Ship of Death'. Built around 3500 BC and enormous, it's divided into…

Knap of Howar

Knap of Howar

By the seashore, this sturdy stone-built farmhouse and storeroom are solidly built testimony to crofting life on Papa Westray island…5500 years ago. An…

Highland Park Distillery

Highland Park Distillery

This distillery, South of Kirkwall's centre, is great to visit. Despite a dodgy Viking rebrand, it's a serious distillery that malts its own barley; see…

Stromness Museum

Stromness Museum

This superb museum, run with great passion, is full of knick-knacks from maritime and natural-history exhibitions covering whaling, the Hudson's Bay…

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Northern Isles , Orkney , Travel Guides

Orkney travel guide: 32+ things to do in orkney.

With its unique landscapes, culture and history, Orkney is a dream destination in the Scottish Isles. Here are some of my favourite things to do in Orkney to experience this northern archipelago to the fullest. You’ll love this travel guide for Orkney, whether it’s your first visit and you’re interested in the highlights, or you’re a return visit on the lookout for hidden gems.

This post contains affiliate links from which I may make a commission. Find out more here . All opinions are my own.

Orkney – you can also say Orkney Isles or Orkney Islands (but never “the Orkneys”!) – lies just 10 miles off the north coast of Scotland, but with its distinct history, culture and landscapes it feels like you’ve travelled much further to a new destination.

There are about 70 islands in Orkney, although many are inhabited. 22,000 people live on just 20 islands – and they are well outnumbered by sheep and seabirds.

The islands offer stunning landscapes ranging from beaches to seacliffs. Nature thrives here, including rare flowers like the Scottish primrose and nesting seabirds like puffins. But what Orkney is probably best known for is its people, history and culture.

Before Orkney became part of the Kingdom of Scotland, it was colonised by Norwegians during the Viking period. As such, there was never really a Gaelic culture on the islands and the Norse influence shows until today in Orkney placenames, local dialects and traditions.

Looking further back, Orkney has been settled for 8,000 years and many traces remain from these pre-historic, Neolithic and Iron Age Orcadians. The most famous sites are the village Skara Brae, the Stones of Stenness, the Ring of Brodgar and the chambered tomb of Maeshowe, which form the Heart of Neolithic Orkney UNESCO World Heritage Site .

But Orkney won’t just charm you with its historic sites. Expect to find bustling seaside towns and meet lots of welcoming locals, whether it’s on a coastal walk or at a trad music session down the pub. Orkney has a lot to offer. This post covers:

  • Over 32 things to do in Orkney , especially on Orkney Mainland and the southern isles
  • Day trip ideas to other Orkney islands, including Hoy
  • A practical travel guide for Orkney: how much time to spend there, how to get to the islands, how to get around, where to stay & recommended places to eat, and
  • Useful travel tips for Orkney sprinkled throughout

Without further ado, let’s dive into my Orkney travel guide.

The Stones of Stenness in Orkney

A Map of Orkney Highlights

Orkney Practical Travel Guide

How much time to spend in orkney.

I recommend spending at least 2 nights in Orkney, even if you’re planning to visit Orkney as a detour from the North Coast 500 .

However, there is so much to do, you could easily fill a week or two with historic sites, fun activities and interesting events.

On my first trip to Orkney, we spent a week there, and for our upcoming second trip, we even added an additional night to have more time on the islands.

Can you do a day trip to Orkney?

Theoretically, you can – the ferry from Scrabster to Stromness only takes 1 hour and 15 minutes, so you’d have plenty of time to tour some of Orkney’s highlights on a day trip before taking the ferry back in the evening (from Stromness or St Margaret’s Hope – see below for travel info). However, you’d have to be very picky and make some tough decisions about which of the many interesting sites to visit.

Personally, I find the price of the ferry too high for a day trip. The crossing can easily cost £200 for two adults and one car (return ticket), which is a lot for a day trip.

How to get to Orkney

If you’re short on time, you can fly to Orkney. Loganair operates flights to Kirkwall from Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness, Aberdeen, Dundee, Shetland and Birmingham.

If you’re visiting Orkney as part of a wider Scotland trip, you are more likely to take the ferry.

Join a guided tour to Orkney! Rabbie’s runs a 5-day tour to Orkney and the north coast from Edinburgh and a 3-day Orkney tour from Inverness. Both include 2 nights in Kirkwall.

There are three ferries from the Scottish mainland to Orkney Mainland – that’s what the main island is called. Whenever I refer to this island I’ll capitalise “Mainland” in this blog post.

Northlink Ferries operates a car ferry from Scrabster near Thurso to Stromness on Mainland. The crossing takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes. During the summer there are 3 crossings per day, in off-season this is reduced to 2 sailings. Northlink Ferries also runs overnight connections from Kirkwall to Aberdeen and from Kirkwall to Lerwick on Shetland.

Scrabster is about 2.5 miles from Thurso train station, with trains arriving from Inverness up to four times a day. Stagecoach buses 80 and X99 run to the ferry pier in Scrabster three to four times a day – but you may want to pre-book a taxi for more flexibility.

A couple taking photos of Hoy aboard the Ferry to Orkney

Pentland Ferry operates a car ferry from Gills Bay in Caithness to St Margaret’s Hope in South Ronaldsay, one of the southern Orkney Islands. South Ronaldsay is connected to Orkney Mainland by a series of causeways, making this an easy alternative port of arrival. There are three crossings per day and they tend to be a little cheaper than Northlink Ferries.

Stagecoach bus 80 also runs from Thurso to Gill’s Bay a few times a day.

There is also a passenger ferry to Orkney which is the most popular option for organised day trips by bus. The John o’Groats Ferry sails from John o’Groats to Burwick on the southern edge of South Ronaldsay. There, you board a bus and explore the highlights of Orkney before returning in the evening. Please note that this ferry and the associated day tours are not operating in 2024!

If you plan to travel to any of the other Orkney Isles, you can do so aboard an Orkey Ferries crossing (see more info below) or a Loganair flight.

How to get around Orkney

As anywhere in Scotland, travelling by car gives you the greatest flexibility when you’re exploring Orkney. Driving allows you to explore off the beaten path and reach rural destinations away from the main sites.

Travelling by bike is a great alternative which gives you just as much flexibility. Just remember that Orkney has a lot of wind, so you’ll need strong legs. Bicycles travel for free with Northlink Ferries and Pentland Ferries. On Orkney, bike hire is available in Stromness and Kirkwall, and many of the smaller islands too.

By Public Transport

If you travel to Orkney without a car, you can explore much of the island’s main attractions and towns by bus. All bus routes on Orkney are operated by Stagecoach.

  • The T11 hop-on, hop-off service runs from the end of April until late September. It is a special bus for visitors and stops in Kirkwall, St Margaret’s Hope, Stromness, the Ring of Brodgar and the Stones of Stenness.
  • The X1 runs from St Margaret’s Hope to Kirkwall and on to Stromness. It stops at the Italian Chapel, the Churchill Barriers, Highland Park Distillery, Kirkwall, Maeshowe and near the Stones of Stenness (10 minutes walk along a small road).

Other routes run from Kirkwall to Skara Brae (past the Ring of Brodgar), from Kirkwall to Evie Sands and the Tingwall ferry for Rousay, to Houton for the car ferry to Hoy, to Deerness in East Mainland, and from Stromness to Birsay.

You can get single tickets or Day Rider passes that are valid on all regular buses. Note that the T11 requires its own ticket.

You might also like: My full guide to travelling Scotland by Public Transport

By Ferry or Plane

If you want to visit other Orkney Isles besides Mainland Orkney, you can reach them by ferry or plane.

Orkney Ferries operates crossings to all the inhabited islands that aren’t connected by causeways, including Hoy, Rousay, Shapinsay, Stronsay, Sanday, Westray, Papa Westray and North Ronaldsay.

Tickets should generally be booked in advance, especially if you plan to travel with a vehicle. As a foot passenger, you can be more flexible. Bikes travel for free.

Inter-island flights from Kirkwall (Mainland) to Eday, Stronsay, Westray, Sanday and North Ronaldsay are operated by Loganair .

View from the ferry from Kirkwall to Westray

Where to stay in Orkney

If you travel by public transport, I recommend staying in one of Orkney’s two main towns – Kirkwall or Stromness. This gives you easier access to public transport (especially Kirkwall), inter-island ferries for day trips, shops, pubs and restaurants.

If you have a car, you have more flexibility and can book accommodation in rural Orkney.

On our first and second trips, we booked a self-catering apartment at Summerdale near Orphir, approx. 7 miles from Kirkwall. The accommodation contains the upper floor of the cottage – the hosts live right underneath and they are the sweetest couple. The apartment sleeps up to 4 adults in two bedrooms and there is a spacious lounge, a separate dining area and a fully-equipped kitchen.

From the windows facing out front, you can see the golden sands of Waulkmill Bay. The house is surrounded by fields with sheep in a tranquil setting. I can’t recommend it enough for your home base in Orkney.

Our bedroom at Summerdale in Orkney

Other options I’d consider, in no particular order:

  • Kirkwall Youth Hostel run by Hostelling Scotland: I’ve enjoyed all their hostels and I’m sure this one is no different
  • Murray Arms Hotel in St Margaret’s Hope: The food there is delicious and I’m sure the rooms are lovely too
  • The Ferry Inn in Stromness, which is also a popular live music venue for trad players
  • Lindisfarne B&B in Stromness: I’ve often recommended this to my itinerary clients
  • Orkney Lux Lodges in Stromness: These come with a private hot tub!

My favourite restaurants in Orkney

We had a lot of fantastic food in Orkney. To be honest, finding vegan options was a little tricky, so from time to time I had to make do with veggie options containing dairy, or freshly landed seafood from local fishing boats. If you’re now willing (or able) to make such exceptions, it helps to book accommodation where you can prepare your own meals.

Here are some of my favourite eateries from our trips:

  • The Polly Kettle in Burray serves finger-licking Orcadian-Egyptian fare like homemade falafel, fresh butter bean stew with tahini dip, irresistible desserts and cakes. This was one of my favourite places to eat on our trip and a great vegan-friendly find.
  • The Murray Arms Hotel in St Margaret’s Hope is a seafood restaurant through and through – although they also have one meat option on the menu. They get their fish and shellfish from local fishing boats and make many of the condiments in-house, including their butter. We had the seafood platter and the furthest ingredient was monkfish caught near John o’Groats, a mere 15 miles away. What a great way to minimise your food miles!
  • The Ferry Inn in Stromness is a gastro pub with rooms and lots of atmosphere. Since it’s one of the main venues at the Orkney Folk Festival we didn’t have a chance to eat in the formal restaurant, but we enjoyed the storm they cooked up at their food truck during the festival. Think burgers and lobster mac & cheese.
  • Another nice option in Stromness is Adam’s Place which serves seafood, meat and vegetarian options. I had a chowder here and it was delicious.
  • Most days we picked up cakes from Argos Bakery in Kirkwall or Stromness.
  • Harbour Fry in Kirkwall is a traditional fish & chip shop. This is where Thomas tried the famous Orkney Pattie – a local delicacy: mince, potaties and onion mixed together, battered and deep-fried.
  • We enjoyed another seafood platter at Kirkwall Hotel – it wasn’t as amazing as the one in St Margaret’s Hope, but still really good.
  • St Ola’s Hotel in Kirkwall is a good option for no-frills pub food.
  • We were quite keen on trying Helgi’s in Kirkwall, but couldn’t get a table.
  • We also tried our luck at Birsay Tearoom but it was closed on the day we visited the area – next time!

No matter where you plan to eat, I highly recommend booking a table for dinner – or at least calling ahead to avoid disappointment.

Seafood platter at Murray Arms Hotel in St Margaret's Hope, Orkney

32+ Things to do in Orkney

In this section I focus on things to do on the Mainland of Orkney – that’s the main island where Kirkwall and Stromness are located. Scroll down for things to do on the southern islands, and day trip ideas to other islands. It would be impossible to write one blog post about things to do on all the Orkney islands – you’d be reading for weeks.

Now, that’s out the way – let’s go.

Explore Kirkwall

Kirkwall is the capital of Orkney and with about 10,000 people it’s largest town. The town was founded by the Vikings and its name comes from the Norse word for “Church Bay”.

Start by visiting the Orkney Museum at Tankerness House to learn more about these islands. During the summer, the gardens are a treat for the senses.

Cross the street to beautiful St Magnus Cathedra l It. was founded in 1137 and took around 300 years to complete. It’s still used as a church, but there are also regular events, concerts and exhibitions.

Explore the bustling streets of the town centre – which are even more bustling when a large cruise ship is anchored nearby. Judith Glue is a great shop to pick up locally-made knitwear, crafts and souvenirs. There are many other little shops and cafes along Albert Street.

Top Tip: Check the cruise schedule to see when the biggest cruise ships dock in Kirkwall or Stromness (3,000+ passengers). Avoid the most popular sites on Mainland Orkney on those days – they will be busy! Day-tripping to another Orkney island on cruise shop days is a great way to escape the crowds.

Albert Street in Kirkwall

Do a whisky tour

There are two whisky distilleries in Orkney open for tours. Both of them are located in or near Kirkwall.

  • Highland Park Distillery – The distillery is in Kirkwall. They also have a whisky shop in town if you want to pick up a bottle of whisky or some whisky-themed gifts.
  • Scapa Distillery – unlike Highland Park, this is an unpeated whisky. The distillery is just outside Kirkwall.

Highland Park Distillery in Orkney

Do a gin tour

Whisky isn’t your thing? Try Scottish gin made in Orkney! There are a handful of gin distilleries in Orkney that are open for tours and tastings:

  • Deerness Distillery on East Mainland: They also make whisky, but it’s not ready yet!
  • The Orkney Distillery produce Kirkjuvagr Gin but they are also working on establishing a whisky distillery in the future
  • There is also the Orkney Gin Company, but they don’t have a visitor centre.

Explore Stromness

Stromness is Kirkwall’s quaint little sister. The town is much smaller (about 2,500 inhabitants) and the centre is clustered around the picturesque main street that runs parallel to the waterfront.

You can learn more about this little town at the Stromness Museum . The Piers Arts Centre is another nice place to visit, especially if you’re interested in art from Orkney.

A great local hike is the short but steep ascent of Brinkie’s Brae , a wee hill above Stromness. It offers fantastic views of the town, the coastline and nearby islands like Hoy and Graemsay.

Stromness in Orkney

Skara Brae Neolithic Settlement

The stone settlement Skara Brae on the west coast of Mainland Orkney is Europe’s best preserved Neolithic village. It is older than Stonehenge or the Pyramids of Giza. People lived here from 3,180 BC to about 2,500 BC.

It then lay silent beneath layers of soil for thousands of years until a storm started uncovering it in 1850. It was excavated by a local man, later plundered and finally properly excavated and recorded in 1927.

The main site of the village contains around 10 houses which are connected by once-covered walkways. Each house has a primitive sewer system with flushing toilets. Due to its fragile nature, visitors must remain on the paths and walkways above the structures, but there is also a replica to get a sense of what these buildings once looked like from the inside.

Skara Brae in Orkney

Ring of Brodgar

The Ring of Brodgar is one of the most spectacular stone circles in the UK. It contains 36 standing stones, although there were nearly twice as many when it was built 5,000 years ago. The site also includes burial mounds and a large ditch around the stone circle.

It is believed that the site was used for ceremonial purposes and to observe the moon – but there is little evidence that tells us for sure why this stone circle was erected.

It’s free to visit the Ring of Brodgar and from mid-May to mid-September, local rangers lead free guided walks every day at 1 pm. Meet them at the car park.

Ring of Brodgar, Orkney

Stones of Stenness

The Stones of Stenness were once a great stone circle, built approx. 5,400 years ago. Only four of the 12 stones remain today – but they are good ones! The tallest stone is nearly 6 metres (19 ft) tall.

It’s free to visit the Stones of Stenness and from mid-May to mid-September, local rangers lead free guided walks every day at 10 am. Meet them at the gate to the stones.

Kathi standing in front of a standing stone in Stenness, Orkney

Maeshowe Chambered Cairn

Maeshowe Chambered Cairn is an incredibly well-preserved Neolithic chambered tomb which was built 5,000 years ago. It’s one of those places where it’s hard to imagine how people managed to lift such huge stones into place.

Maeshowe Chambered Cairn can only be accessed with a guided tour and capacity is very limited – you must book this attraction well in advance to avoid disappointment.

There are many other chambered cairns in Orkney – for example, the Unstan Chambered Cairn – but none of them are as spectacular.

Top Tip for Maeshowe Chambered Cairn: Roughly from the end of November through to the middle of January (weather dependent) the setting sun aligns with the central chamber of the cairn. Visitors wishing to see the setting sun should book for the 2 pm tour.

A walk to the Brough of Birsay

The tidal island Brough of Birsay is linked to Mainland Orkney by a causeway. Twice a day, you can walk across to explore the island and its many historic sites.

Highlights on the Brough of Birsay include the replica of a Pictish stone (the original was found here), remains of a Norse settlement and a medieval monastery. Walk to the lighthouse at the other end of the island to see seabirds and breathtaking cliffs.

Timing is of the essence to visit the Brough of Birsay. Check the tide tables at Skara Brae or call them on 01856 841 815. The tide times can also be found on the  Met Office website . You get a few hours on either side of low tide to walk there and back. Allow 2-3 hours to visit the island.

The causeway to the Brough of Birsay in Orkney

Marwick Head

The headland of Marwick Head is a favourite among bird watchers. You might have already spotted it from the Brough of Birsay – the Kitchener Memorial (commemorating WWI Minister for War, Lord Kitchener) is hard to overlook.

During the summer, seabirds nest in the majestic cliffs of Marwick Head. You can spot fulmars, guillemots, razorbills, cormorants and kittiwakes – just take care of the edge!

Cliffs of Yesnaby

Looking for a coastal walk on the West Mainland? Look no further than the cliffs of Yesnaby! Spot sea birds, walk through flower meadows (including that rare Scottish primrose) and marvel at the stunning sea views.

One of the highlights here is the sea stac Yesnaby Castle – castle often refers to natural sea stacs in Orkney – with its natural stone arch. On your way from the car park, you’ll pass the headland Brough of Bigging. Allow 1-2 hours for this walk.

yesnaby castle, orkney

Visit Barony Mill

Barony Mill is Orkney’s only water mill, but what’s even more special is the kind of grain that is milled here. Bere is an ancient type of barley which was found in Neolithic tombs. It is only grown in Orkney and while it isn’t as productive as modern types of grain, it is incredibly well-adapted to the rough climate here.

You can join a tour at the mill and taste traditional bread, bannocks and biscuits made from beremeal milled here.

Visit the Woolshed

Here’s another uniquely Orcadian product: wool from the seaweed-eating sheep on North Ronaldsay! At the Woolshed near Evie, you can learn about this rare variety of Orkney sheep and shop hand-knitted items like jumpers, cardigans and more. You can also pick up balls or skeins of yarn to take home for your own knitting projects.

Top Tip for Knitters: Read Jane Cooper’s The Lost Flock about her efforts to raise the profile of the rare sheep breed Orkney Borerary.

Orkney Folklore & Storytelling Centre

If you’re looking for something different to do, visit the Orkney Folklore & Storytelling Centre . They offer events for all ages including family-friendly afternoon sessions and storytelling evenings by a peatfire.

Sands of Evie & Brouch of Gurness

Located on the northeast of Orkney’s Mainland and therefore sheltered from the sheer force of the Atlantic, the Sands of Evie are a beautiful, sandy beach with shallow, turquoise waters.

The water here can still be wild, but on a calm day, this is a popular spot for swimmers. There are often seals in the bay and lots of birds.

On the far eastern side of the bay, find the Broch of Gurness , the remains of an Iron Age settlement. It features what’s left of a large broch tower and several stone buildings scattered around it.

Sands of Evie, Orkney

Waulkmill Bay

Waulkmill Bay is a brilliant sandy beach, especially at low tide when a huge expanse of sand is revealed.

At the back of the beach, there is a salt marsh with trails and the nearby Hobbister Nature Reserve is a great spot to see moorland birds like short-eared owls and hen harriers. Even from the road, you can hear the characteristic songs of curlews.

Even though we stayed so close to this beach, I have yet to visit. It’s on my list of things to do in Orkney on my next trip.

Dingieshowe & Newark Beach, East Mainland

The East Mainland lies southeast of Kirkwall and is a little more off the beaten path than the West Mainland. The beaches at Dingishowe and Newark are just some of the highlights of this area.

Both bays offer sandy beaches, beautiful views, coastal walks, dunes and wildlife.

The Gloup & Mull Head, East Mainland

The Mull Head Nature Reserve offers large stretches of coastal grassland, sea cliffs and heath moorland. There is a network of trails and you can spend a few hours exploring the area.

If you only have a short amount of time, visit the Gloup – a collapsed sea cave near the car park. It’s a dramatic site to see the ocean roar into the cave some 80 ft below.

Brough of Deerness, East Mainland

Continue on your coastal walk from the Gloup until you reach the Brough of Deerness, a rocky outcrop detached from the mainland. There are steps leading down to the base of the outcrop and more steps back up to the Brough. You’ll need a head for heights!

Note that the Brough of Deerness is currently inaccessible due to a landslip. Hopefully, it will reopen soon.

Follow the Creative Orkney Trail

Orcadians are a creative people! The Creative Orkney Trail lists artists, designers and makers all over the islands who open their workshops and studios to visitors. These include jewellery, homewares, clothing & textiles and art & photography.

Orkney Folk Festival

Established in 1982, the Orkney Folk Festival has long celebrated the best of traditional music from Orkney, Scotland and further afield.

The festival takes place over four days at the end of May in Stromness, although there are also events at venues in Kirkwall, other towns on the Mainland and a few other islands. You can buy tickets for individual events, each with a line-up of 4-5 bands, and/or attend free pub sessions across venues in Stromness.

My first trip to Orkney was for the 40th Orkney Folk Festival, and we’re returning for another visit this year. Here are my top tips for the Orkney Folk Festival and how to make the most of it!

The next Orkney Folk Festival takes place from 23-26 May 2024.

A pub session at the Ferry Inn during the Orkney Folk Festival

Orkney Nature Festival

The Orkney Nature Festival happens just before the folk festival in the middle of May. It features a diverse programme including boat trips to see the cliffs, nature photography classes with local experts, guided walks and much more.

The next Orkney Nature Festival takes from from 13-19 May 2024.

Things to do in Orkney’s South Isles

The South Isles of Lambholm, Glimps Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay are connected to Orkney’s Mainland by causeways, making them an easy place to visit without having to worry about ferry schedules. You can just drive there. The bus goes as far as St Margaret’s Hope.

Visit the Italian Chapel

The Italian Chapel was built by Italian Prisoners of War held in Orkney from 1942 to 1945. They were brought to the islands to construct the Churchill Barriers (see below).

The chapel is small and unassuming from the outside. It was constructed from two simple Nissen huts upon the request of camp priest, Fr Giacobazzi. It’s on the inside where this chapel shines. Domenico Chiocchetti, an artist among the prisoners, along with other tradesmen transformed the simple interior into a stunning place of worship.

I have to admit I was quite surprised by how beautiful the interior of the chapel is! It’s well worth a visit.

The Italian Chapel in Orkney

Drive across the Churchill Barriers

The causeways between the southern Orkney Isles are known as the Churchill Barriers. They were constructed during WWII to block German U-boats and protect the British naval anchorage at Scapa Flow.

Additionally, block ships were sunk in these shallow bays and you can still see the wrecks sticking out of the sea, especially at low tide. Beaches have formed along the barriers too, making for a fascinating road trip to see them all.

The Churchill Barriers in Orkney

Snorkelling at the Churchill Barriers or diving at Scapa Flow

There are countless shipwrecks in the waters of Scapa Flow and surrounding the Churchill Barriers. There are sunken British ships, scuttled German ships (both from WWI) and some blockade ships sunken on purpose during WWII.

Since these ships sunk, they’ve transformed into artificial reefs offering shelter and habitat to countless marine species. Exploring these underwater worlds is an incredible bucket list item.

Local company Kraken Diving offers diving excursions to see the wrecks and more gentle snorkelling sessions at the Churchill Barriers. Of course, you can also go snorkelling without a guide – just make sure you take the necessary precautions to stay safe. You can find my top snorkelling tips here .

Forest Bathing at Olav’s Wood

Orkney isn’t known for its trees – the near-constant wind makes it hard for large plants to grow high and much of the original woodlands that existed here were destroyed a long time ago. There is however one place to go forest bathing in Orkney.

Olav’s Wood is a tranquil mixed woodland in a gorge on the east coast of South Ronaldsay. Here the trees can grow relatively sheltered from the storms. It’s a tranquil spot with a bubbling burn running through the middle. There are several trails through the woodland and its surrounding grass- and wetlands.

A path in Olav's Wood in Orkney

A coastal walk in Burwick

I love coastal wildflowers like sea pinks (also called sea thrift) and the southern tip of South Ronaldsay is the perfect place to see them. During the summer, the coastline around Burwick is carpeted in a sea of pink. Add to that the magnificent views across to the mainland of Scotland and the towering seacliffs with nesting cormorants, and you’ve got yourself a winning combination.

Burwick is a wonderful location for a coastal walk in Orkney’s south isles – our walk here is among my favourite things to do in Orkney.

Birdwatching on the coast of Burwick, Orkney

Seafood in St Margaret’s Hope

Finish your day with a delicious meal at the Murray Arms Hotel in St Margaret’s Hope. They specialise in locally sourced seafood and make much of the condiments in-house, including their butter.

Since this is a small restaurant, book ahead to make sure get a table.

Other Orkney Islands

There are many other islands to visit in Orkney and they all warrant a few nights to explore in depth. Some are also easy to reach for day trips – here’s a selection of Orkney day trip ideas. Hopefully, I’ll be able to add more after visiting them in the future.

Day trip to Hoy

Hoy is Orkney’s second largest island (after Mainland) and lies just south of Stromness. Most people travel to Hoy to visit the beautiful beach at Rackwick Bay, take on the 3-hour hike to the sea stac Old Man of Hoy, and visit the Scapa Flow Museum in Lyness.

This island is on my list of things to do in Orkney.

Getting to Hoy

There are two ferries to Hoy. A passenger ferry runs from Stromness to Moaness in north Hoy. A car ferry runs from Houton near Orphir to Lyness in south Hoy. Note that there is no bus connection between Moaness and Rackwick – if you want to hike to the Old Man of Hoy, you have to travel by car or pre-book taxi transfers with a local company.

The Old Man of Hoy, Orkney

Day trip to Westray

Westray is one of Orkney’s North Isles. We did a day trip here on our first trip to Orkney and brought our bikes – it was challenging, but it was one of my favourite things to do in Orkney.

Most of the highlights are in the north of the island – only 7 miles from the ferry port. But with strong headwinds, the journey was quite the challenge. We didn’t manage to see everything on our wish list.

Highlights on Westray include the puffin colony at Castle o’Burrian (another one of these sea stacs called castle ), Noltland Castle in Pierowall, the beach at Links of Noltland, and the lighthouse and seacliffs at Loup Head Lighthouse. Local company Westraak offer guided tours. If you stay overnight, their evening tours sound delightful.

Getting to Westray

Orkney Ferries runs regular ferries from Kirkwall to Rapness in south Westray. Note that there are no buses on Westray – you need your own transport (car or bike) or book a guided tour to reach the highlights in the north of the island.

Kathi cycling on Westray, Orkney

Take the shortest scheduled flight in the world

The Scottish airline Loganair operates the shortest scheduled passenger flight in the world. The flight from Westray to Papa Westray lasts only 90 seconds, with about one minute spent in the air. The flight primarily serves the local community (students, researchers, medical visits), but as a tourist, it’s a fun activity to add to your bucket list.

It makes sense to spend a few days on Westray and Papa Westray to make time for the flight in addition to other sites and activities on these islands.

Day trip to Rousay

Rousay is an island for history buffs. There are more than 150 ancient sites, including several brochs and chambered cairns. I first came across the island because some of my itinerary clients were raving about their guided day tour with Patrick from Rousay Tours .

Highlights include the Iron Age Midhowe Broch, the 5,000-year-old Midhowe Chambered Cairn, the excavations at Swandro and the chambered cairn Taversoe Tuick.

Getting to Rousay

The ferry from Tingwall on Mainland Orkney to Rousay runs several times a day, sometimes with routes stopping in Egilsay and/or Wyre along the way. You can bring your car on this ferry or hire bikes from Trumland Farm near the ferry port on Rousay. Here’s a suggested bike route around the island.

Phew, you’ve made it to the end of my detailed Orkney travel guide. Packed with things to do in Orkney, day trip ideas and practical travel info, you know have what it takes to plan a wonderful trip to these northern Scottish Isles.

I’m sure I will have many places to add after my second trip to Orkney. Stay tuned!

Add your favourite things to do in Orkney in the comments!

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  • Scottish Isles

Orkney, otherwise known as the Orkney Islands, is a stunning archipelago in Scotland. This collection of islands is located off the North Coast of the Scottish Mainland. The islands hold sights and experiences you can’t find anywhere else in Scotland, so believe us when we say there are many things to do in Orkney.

The Orkney archipelago is only 10 miles north of the Caithness coast. It consists of 70 islands, only 20 of which are inhabited, making exploring the uninhabited islands in the North Sea quite an adventure! The largest island is the Orkney Mainland, with 523 square kilometres for you to explore, making it the sixth-largest Scottish island and the tenth-largest island in the British Isles.

The Orkney Islands Council, situated in the administrative Centre of Kirkwall, have ensured that the council area which contains many of the historic sites and stunning natural scenery of Orkney is preserved for travellers to see for many generations.

In This Post

Things to Do in Orkney

The expansive archipelago of Orkney is perfect for any holiday you’re planning year-round. It’s best known for its history of fertile farmland, jaw-dropping coastlines, an abundance of ancient historical sites, and many more incredible attractions.

One day in Orkney can have you visiting Viking cathedrals in the morning, having lunch overlooking the magnificent Old Man of Hoy sea stack, and then finishing the day off with tasting fine Orcadian whisky!

Many sights and hidden gems are scattered across the island, making it one of Scotland’s most popular island destinations. People are drawn to the untameable atmosphere and wilds of Orkney – what more could you want from a holiday?

From its southern tip at South Ronaldsay, through the Mainland, to the top of North Ronaldsay, we’ve covered the best things to do in Orkney.

Highland Park Distillery

The northern archipelago of the Orkney Mainland holds the Highland Park Distillery, where some of the finest whiskey in the Orkney Islands are distilled.

The Highland Park Distillery has been creating its incredible single malt whisky blend the same way for over 220 years – because why change perfection? With a paid booking, Highland Park provides visitors with a unique tour of its facilities.

The Distillery’s passionate tour guides offer in-depth insight into the specific and meticulate steps that need to be taken for each and every bottle of single malt whisky they make.

You can cap off your Distillery tour by having one of Highland Park’s incredible whisky tasting experiences. You won’t want to miss an opportunity to sample some of their best.

St Magnus Cathedral

St Magnus Cathedral is Scotland’s most northerly cathedral and a fantastic location that you can’t miss out on while visiting Orkney.

The Cathedral is known as the ‘Light in the North’ and was founded by a Viking, Earl Rognvald, in 1137. The exterior of the Cathedral is imposing and has stunning Viking-inspired architecture. But within the interior, you’ll find an atmosphere of tranquillity and warmth that exudes history.

This beautiful cathedral is an essential location for the people who live in the royal burgh of Kirkwall and will welcome everyone who visits this immense attraction.

The Orkney Museum

The Orkney Museum is the custodian of all historical knowledge in Orkney, an essential visit if you want to dive deep into the Northern Isles’ past.

The Museum has exhibits and collections documenting Orkney’s history from the Neolithic Stone Age, the Picts and Vikings, and up until today. There are even pictures and activities throughout the Museum to entertain younger visitors.

Do yourself a favour and pay a visit to the Orkney Museum; your journey through the Orkney archipelago will be better for it!

The Old Man of Hoy

Travel to the Isle of Hoy Orkney, and you’ll find something astonishing – a towering sea stack that stands 137-metres tall!

The Old Man of Hoy is a sight you can only believe when you see it in person. It’s one of the main tourist attractions in Hoy, and some experience climbers have even chosen to climb the behemoth of a sea stack. We won’t blame you for just admiring its impressive height, though.

You can have some of the most incredible views of the Old Man of Hoy and the coastline from a trail path that starts at Raywick Bay. These trails put you right on the stalwart sea cliffs and are one of the most life-changing sights you can have in Orkney – make sure to take care when there are strong winds!

The Brough of Birsay

The Brough of Birsay is one of the unique attractions on Orkney Mainland, Scotland, and is located on a small island near Birsay.

This tidal island is only accessible for about 4 hours a day before submerging when the high tide arrives. If you’re lucky enough to access the island’s shore during low tide, you’ll be treated to one of the most well-preserved Pictish settlements, with the remains of ancient Viking ruined buildings still present.

The Brough of Birsay is one of your only chances in Orkney to come and see the relics of a Viking village firsthand, an opportunity that shouldn’t be squandered while you still have it. Race the tides and explore the remnants of the Vikings who once lived in Orkney!

The island also grants brilliant views of the west coast of Orkney and is one of the best places to see puffins during the summer months.

Marwick Head Nature Reserve

Spanning nearly 20 acres, the Marwick Head Nature Reserve is a stunning habitat for the many types of seabirds of Mainland Orkney.

From kittiwakes and guillemots to purple sandpipers, this Nature Reserve will have any budding birdwatcher’s head-turning and make them almost forget about the spectacular coastline and ocean views. The seasonal carpet of colourful flowers makes this Reserve look like heaven on earth in May.

Multiple trails lead you through the Reserve and highlight the abundance of animal life here, so make some time to tour this beautiful point in Orkney.

Journey to Orkney’s First Tomb

Orkney is home to many of the oldest ritual sites and burial cairns in the UK, but none were discovered before Maeshowe!

The grassy mound is in the centre of a Neolithic hub of historic sites and monuments, undoubtedly one of the densest in the UK. Maeshowe is a chambered burial cairn said to have been constructed over 5000 years ago, a number you’ll hear quite often while in Orkney.

The cairn is also home to one of the richest collections of runic markings, a byproduct of Viking graffiti over 3000 years ago when they first broke into the tomb. You can’t forget that Orkney was ruled by Vikings long ago; there’s always a fantastic attraction around every corner to remind you!

Deerness Distillery

Want a highlight in your distillery tours? The Deerness Distillery will tempt you with its impressive handcrafted gins, vodkas, and coffee liquors!

The eye-catching bottles from Deerness Distillery are instantly recognisable, and they pride themselves on being a self-made distillery, with the owners living right next door! You may be lucky enough to catch them when you visit and have the chance to chat with some of the most passionate distillers in the region.

Anyone who loves mixed drinks or mixology will be a big fan of the Deerness Distillery, so make sure to pop on by the next time you’re in Orkney.

Cuween Hill Chambered Cairn

Just past the town of Grimbister is the Cuween Hill Chambered Cairn, one of the most ancient monuments to Neolithic Orkney you can find on the Northern Isles.

You can immerse yourself in the fascinating history of this great cairn, which held the bones of man, dog, and oxen for over 5000 years! Nowhere else in Orkney evokes the mysterious and mystical images of burial rites and ancient architecture quite like the Cuween Hill Chambered Cairn.

As you pass through Orkney, these chambered cairns are well worth visiting.

Bishop’s & Earl’s Palaces

At the heart of Kirkwall sits the Bishop’s & Earl’s Palaces, one of the last remaining remnants of Medieval Orkney!

These Palaces are the perfect way to explore the Orkney’s past, especially how close they are to the St Magnus Cathedral. Explore the ruins of these big households which were built for prominent individuals like the great Haakon IV, and you’ll be able to capture a glimpse into the 16th-century world they lived in.

This Palace complex is quite unlike anything else you can see in Scotland and is undoubtedly one of the best attractions in Kirkwall.

Cubbie Roo’s Castle

The Orkney islands are just brimming with Old Norse culture and heritage, and nowhere is this more evident than in this Castle.

You can find the ruins of Roo’s Castle on the quaint island of Wyre and be awestruck at the thought of what an immense fortress this site once was. What remains are 2-metre walls of ancient stoneworks that tell the Castle’s chronicles of sieges and battles fought over the Garisay Sound.

The gorgeous views from Wyre are also a great reason to check out this prime destination filled with the presence of Vikings.

Ring of Brodgar

The Ring of Brodgar is as mysterious as it is beautiful and one of the most spectacular prehistoric monuments you can find in the British Isles.

The Ring of Brodgar is packed with outstanding Neolithic sites, from the 36 surviving stones that make up the massive stone Ring of Brodgar, and the ancient burial grounds, to the large circular cut into the stone around the Ring – all of which was done 5000 years ago!

The atmosphere and presence of these particular stones make it easy to reimagine the old rituals here and are one more reason to visit the Orkney isles.

NorthLink Ferries

They say that the journey is sometimes more important than the destination, and Northlink Ferries makes travelling to Orkney a treat.

Catch one of these frequent trips from the ferry terminal at Scrabster or Aberdeen if you’re interested in seeing more of Scotland’s stunning coastline and wildlife. You may spot pods of dolphins and whales and even more of the immense variety of ocean animals that the Northern isles hold along your journey.

These ferries are also one of the best ways to see the Old Man of Hoy amidst the rugged cliffs of the North Sea.

Kirkwall Marina

The Kirkwall Marina is not only a place to relax and enjoy the gentle rocking of ships as the day slowly rolls by but an excellent place to spend a day exploring Kirkwall’s shops, restaurants, and cafes!

You can enjoy some of the Orcadian hospitality that Orkney is known for as you sample excellent fresh food and drinks and maybe even sample the traditional foods like seaweed-fed lamb, shellfish, beers, and more. Orkney maintains its heritage as a farming and livestock culture, and nowhere else is this more evident than the food you can savour here!

The Orkney Sailing Club can also be found at the Kirkwall Marina and welcomes all tourists, regardless if you’re interested in yachting or just admiring the beauty of the Marina.

Churchill Barriers

Born from the need to protect the Orkney Isles during the second world war, the Churchill Barriers now offer travellers an excellent way to traverse the smaller islands of Orkney.

This narrow strip of road provides visitors with an accessible way to reach the southern tip of Orkney’s South Ronaldsay from the Mainland. This is an easy way to explore these islands, but it also provides splendid views of the surrounding landscapes.

Many people who holiday in Orkney say that island hopping is one of the most fun parts of the trip, and there’s always something interesting around every corner.

So take a trip down the Churchill Barriers, and you’ll be treated to incredible beaches, a plethora of sea life and birdlife, and even an opportunity to enjoy the shallower waters of the archipelago.

Standing Stones of Stenness

The Standing Stones of Stenness tower amongst the flat hearth between Loch Stenness and Loch Harray, providing a gateway to an Orkney 5000 years ago.

These stones could be the oldest in the British Isles and were once used in rituals and other important events during their time. And although there were once 12 of these mighty structures, the remaining four impose a sense of size and scope and evoke imagery of ancient burial rites and rituals.

The Stones of Stenness may be one of the most popular attractions in Orkney, especially with their proximity to the Ring of Brodgar.

The waters of Scapa Flow are rich with crucial naval history and contain some of the most exciting places for scuba diving exploration.

This expanse of brilliant blue water tied to Viking invasions, and was once a base for the British Grand Fleet built by the Scottish Government. It holds the wreckage of German ships from the Scuttling of the German Fleet during the Second World War.

The Scapa Flow Visitor Centre, located in Hoy, also gives those who visit an in-depth insight into the many significant events at this attraction – the perfect destination for a budding historian to take advantage of!

Skara Brae Prehistoric Village

Unearth the thousands of years old Neolithic village the next time you go to Stromness in Orkney, and you can look into the remarkable lives of the ancestors who lived here long ago.

The Skara Brae Prehistoric Village was discovered during a winter storm in the 1850s, which sounds like something out of a fiction novel! You can wander and see the fascinating artefacts left behind and entertain yourself with touch-screen presentations and fact-find quizzes that make learning about this site even more fun.

The stone beds, dressers, and seats of Neolithic Orkney remind us that some things weren’t so different 5000 years ago.

Eday is often described as ‘Orkney in miniature’ because it condenses so many attractions into one place – the perfect attraction if you’re only in Orkney for a short time!

You’ll find eye-catching archaeological monuments, sublime white-sand beaches, and a wide array of sea life and birdlife. There’s ample accommodation to enjoy this island’s serenity for however long you want.

Eday Island is one small island that offers many things to do, and well worth your time to book a trip to!

Yesnaby Cliffs

Orkney is undoubtedly known for its beautiful and expansive coastline, and there is no better place to see this than the Yesnaby Cliffs!

These Cliffs are a paradise for anyone who wants to see more of Orkney’s fantastic natural beauty. On particularly windy days, the sea waves bash against the cliffside. On calmer ones, the Cliffs come alive with the sounds of birdsong.

Many walking paths take you right up to the breathtaking views, but always take care when navigating the rocky cliffside.

Gill’s Bay

Gill’s Bay is the destination most travellers use to reach Orkney, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t things to do here!

You can find Gill’s Bay next to John o’Groats, the northmost point of Mainland Scotland and one of the most popular places to visit while exploring the northern regions of the country.

It’s the best place to gather local information or news about the Orkney islands before catching the ferry up to South Ronaldsay or Mainland Orkney! You’ll get to navigate the Pentland Firth, home to dolphins, seals, and whales; a special treat to see as you begin your voyage.

If you are not in the mood to catch a plane to Kirkwall Airport, a quick ferry ride from Gill’s Bay along the Pentland Firth is just what you need to start exploring Orkney.

Papa Westray

Known locally as Papay, Papa Westray is one of the northernmost islands of Orkney. This hidden gem of the Orkney Islands contains numerous attractions that make it perfect for a day trip.

To reach Papa Westray, you can catch the world’s shortest flight. This quick journey takes you from Westray and Papa Westray in an astonishing 90 seconds! This leaves you plenty of time to fully discover the must-see sights of the island, including spectacular wildlife, ancient stone houses, coastal views, and Papa Westray’s cultural events like art galleries and music performances.

Papa Westray is also known for its fertile land, and farms are a common sight as you travel through the island. Check out the farm of Holland, a historic complex filled with information about the culture of farming on the island.

Visit the Italian Chapel

As you make your way up to Orkney Mainland from the smaller islands like South Ronaldsay, don’t forget to come and see Lamb Holm and the Italian Chapel.

This beautiful Chapel has an incredible story; Italian prisoners were brought from North Africa to Lamb Holm during WWII. Here, they built the Italian Chapel with permission from the camp priest, and soon they had constructed one of the most unique chapels on the island.

Travellers from all over have fallen in love with the Italian Chapel, and it regularly sees over 100,000 guests yearly! The Chapel has also strengthened the relationship between Orkney and Italy, making it a proud monument for both cultures.

Broch of Gurness

There are many impressive Neolithic monuments in Orkney, and the Broch of Gurness is undoubtedly one of the most staggering.

This Iron Age attraction boasts the ruins of an ancient village, with 14 stone buildings collected near a giant broch tower. The Broch of Gurness is over 2000 years old, a unique period to explore while on Orkney.

The Broch also offers unparalleled access to those coming to see it, and you can freely explore the Iron Age ruins, immersing yourself in what it would’ve been like walking through this village 2000 years ago!

Corrigall Farm Museum

Spend some time exploring this 19th-century Victorian-style Orkney farmhouse and you’ll gain an insight into the way of agricultural life that is slowly shrinking in Orkney.

The Farm Museum has many interesting exhibits that were once part of the farming lifestyle, such as a kiln, horse-drawn machinery and wagons, and even a working barn. As you enjoy these olden-age artefacts, you’ll also likely smell the distinct peat-fueled fire that still keeps the Farm Museum warm.

Orkney’s history is intrinsically tied to farming, so a trip to the Corrigall Farm Museum is necessary for anyone who wants a deeper knowledge of the islands.

Orkney Folk Festival

If you’re lucky enough to find yourself in Stromness, Orkney, during the end of May, then treat yourself with a ticket or two to the Folk Festival!

The Festival takes place over a weekend and holds some of the best local and international artists and performers of the Orkney Isles. Highlights include the Blazin’ Fiddles, Belt Hid Oot, Bruce Mainland, and the Driftwood Cowboys! You can mingle and chat with the friendly locals while absorbing the incredible atmosphere and music of the Festival.

One of the best ways to experience Orkney is through the great culture and people, so definitely consider buying a ticket to this lively Festival.

Orkney Wireless Museum

Founded by the late Jim MacDonald, the Orkney Wireless Museum contains an expansive collection of electronics from radios, maps, and other transmission devices.

The Wireless Museum is a great way to learn about the fascinating history of how electronics and transmission technology boomed during WWII, focusing on its impact on events in and around Orkney, like at Scapa Flow.

It’s a great place to take your family and children, with activities and electronic games scattered throughout the exhibits of the Museum.

Orkney Fossil & Heritage Centre

Travel back millions of years ago and experience the evolution of Orkney at the Fossil & Heritage Centre, complete with a massive collection of artefacts!

The Fossil & Heritage Centre introduces you to how Orkney was 350 million years ago and presents fossils and a remarkable geological collection, which then takes you through the many significant historical and heritage events of Orkney. There’s no better way to gather a complete view of the islands than a trip down to the Orkney Fossil & Heritage Centre!

Noup Head Lighthouse

In the Northwest corner of Westray is the beautiful Noup Head Lighthouse, a lighthouse that practically sits on the world’s edge.

The Noup Head Lighthouse is a stunning attraction because of its prominent white-and-gold look and the out-of-this-world views from the 85-metre tall cliffside that the Lighthouse sits on.

Taking a trip to the Lighthouse is not for the faint of heart, however, as the trail takes you close to the cliffside and has a few more challenging portions. The view more than makes up for this, though, but tread carefully when you consider this fantastic journey to the world’s edge.

You can find one of the fascinating natural sights you can see on Orkney in the Mull Head Nature Reserve – The Gloup.

This collapsed sea cave is named after the Old Norse word for chasm, “gluppa”, and makes for some of the most dramatic scenery on the island. The ocean waves still crash through the Gloup, and the sounds of these crashing waves ethereally echo up the 80-foot drop.

For an even closer look, you can hire a small boat to take you into the sea cave, where you can see this peculiar attraction from an entirely new perspective.

Loch of Stenness

The Loch of Stenness and Loch of Harray dominates the middle of Orkney and is crammed full of things to do and see.

Loch Stenness is connected to the ocean and hosts fantastic wildlife on full display. When you visit this serene Loch, you can see birdlife, otters, seals, and much more as you explore the perimeter.

Historical sites are also abundant throughout the immediate surroundings of Loch Stenness and include incredible attractions that take you back 5000 years into Orkney’s history.

Fernvalley Wildlife Centre

On the northern end of the Orkney Mainland sits the Fernvalley Wildlife Centre, the perfect destination if you’re interested in seeing exotic animals while in Orkney.

The Wildlife Centre is home to a wide variety of different animal species like lizards, lemurs, meerkats, and many more for you to come and see! The Wildlife Centre also allows you to be a keeper for a day for a fee, where you can learn how they aim to conserve and take care of the inhabitants so that they live long and prosperous lives.

End a fantastic tour of this Centre by stopping by the Tea Room and sampling some of the excellent teas and cakes they offer.

Kitchener Memorial

The Kitchener Memorial is quite a remarkable attraction that holds brilliant views of the seascape that it overlooks.

This Memorial was built in honour of Lord Kitchener, who passed in June 1916 aboard the sinking HMS Hampshire. It’s an incredible monument to his memory and commands your attention amongst a vibrant and scenic area of Orkney.

You’ll undoubtedly be impressed by the Kitchener Memorial’s setting, and the walk to reach this monument is worth it.

Betty’s Reading Room

If the weather is dampening your travel plans in Orkney, consider a trip to the cosy attraction that is Betty’s Reading Room!

This is undoubtedly one of the hidden gems of Orkney and is easily missed as you travel through Tingwall, but eagle-eyed travellers will spot the welcoming signs that guide you into the Reading Room. This attraction is in honour of a woman named Betty, who was a dear friend to the community and known for her love of reading.

The room is packed with books and sofas, perfect for anyone who has had a stressful day and wants to unwind with a good book as they enjoy the rainy days of Orkney.

Scapa Distillery

Keen to try some of the delicious whisky in Orkney, then Scapa Distillery is one place you should have on your to-do list.

Each sip grants you a taste of the untameable wilds that the windswept Orkney is known for, making it the perfect souvenir to accompany you home after you finish your travels. You’ll find the Scapa Distillery is influenced by its island heritage and the incredible history in the waters of Scapa Flow.

This Distillery is also one of the very few that still create their whisky by hand, offering a more traditional and practised finish to their fine blends. Stopping by the Scapa Distillery is a must if you want to expand your whisky palate!

Hoxa Tapestry Gallery

Handcrafted by a mother and daughter, the Hoxa Tapestry Gallery is one attraction that stuns you with incredibly detailed and meticulous art unlike anywhere else in Orkney.

The Gallery offers the opportunity to take home replicas and originals of some of the beautiful tapestries on show. A portion of the proceeds goes to supporting the continued art and crafts culture of Orkney. You’ll be sorely tempted to grab one of them to take home – that much is certain.

Stop by the Hoxa Tapestry Gallery if you find yourself on the island of South Ronaldsay in Orkney – you won’t regret it!

Other Things To Do in Scottish Isles

  • Things to do in Arran
  • Things to do in Brodick
  • Things to do in Harris
  • Things to do in Islay
  • Things to do in Isle of Lewis
  • Things to do in Isle of Mull
  • Things to do in Isle of Skye
  • Things to do in Kirkwall
  • Things to do in North & South Uist
  • Things to do in Portree
  • Things to do in Shetland
  • Things to do in Stornoway

Graham Grieve

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How to get to Orkney (And 10 best things to do when you’re there!)

Want to visit the Orkney Islands? How do you even get to the Orkneys? What is there to do on Orkney? Is it worth it? Here's everything you need to know! #orkney #orkneyislands #trip #travel #roadtrip #scotland #orkney #islands

Want to visit the islands of Orkney? Wondering how to get to Orkney for a day trip or longer? Here’s everything you need to know to plan your Orkney visit by ferry, whether you’re visiting by car, motorhome or organised tour.

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How to get to Orkney (and is it worth visiting?)

If you’re heading to Scotland, and especially if you’re driving the North Coast 500 or heading all the way up to John o’Groats, you should really consider adding a visit to Orkney to your Scotland itinerary .

When we were there, we hadn’t planned a visit to the islands at ALL.

We arrived at John o’Groats, took the obligatory picture next to the famous post… and then wondered what to do next.

It seemed like an awfully long way to drive, only to then turn around and go all the way back home again.

Luckily, the campsite we were staying at (Dunnet Bay- one of the best motorhome campsites on the NC500 ) had some great information about how to get to Orkney and the Orkney ferries, as well as places to visit and what to do when you’re there!

So we planned a last minute day trip and had a fantastic time. Here’s how you can do the same (only with slightly more planning! 😉 )

Orkney, or the Orkney Islands?

Firstly, (and this is very important ) it’s how to visit ORKNEY, not how to visit the ORKNEY ISLANDS.

The entire group of islands is called Orkney, not ‘The Orkneys’. Yes, I know, it’s confusing. It confused us too.

The people who live on Orkney are called Orcadians and they’re not afraid to correct you if you get it wrong!

Orkney Islands Map

So where exactly IS Orkney?

Orkney is just off the North-East tip of mainland Scotland. You can see on the map how close it is to John o’Groats.

Although there are several islands, the largest, (cunningly titled ‘Mainland’) , is just about the right size for a day trip- which is exactly what we did.

Orkney map of islands Planning a trip to Orkney? Wondering how to get to Orkney by ferry with a car, motorhome or motorbike? Here's everything you need- and a map to help!

How to get to Orkney – Ferry routes

So, how do you get to Orkney? There are a couple of options- fly or by boat. You can’t drive as there’s no bridge or tunnel.

The easiest way is definitely by ferry, especially if you want to take your own vehicle with you.

There are two ferries from the north coast of Scotland, which in summer run several times a day.

We chose to go outbound from Scrabster to Stromness via Northlink ferries and return from St Margaret’s Hope to Gills Bay with Pentland Ferries.

Ferry routes to and from Orkney and mainland Scotland

How long is the ferry to Orkney?

There are several ferries to Orkney. If you take the foot passenger only ferry from John o’Groats, it takes about 40 minutes.

If you want to take a vehicle, you need to go either from Scrabster- Stromness, which takes just over 2 hours, or from St Margaret’s Bay to Gills Hope which takes about an hour.

How much is the ferry to Orkney?

When we travelled, it cost us:

Here’s how much the ferries to Orkney cost us. Remember we went for a day trip and took our motorbikes. (For reference, this was in July 2018)

Yes, it was a little bit more expensive doing two single ferry trips from different locations instead of a return, but it allowed us to get the maximum exploring time by going from one end of the Mainland to the other instead of doubling back on ourselves.

There is also a longer ferry which goes from Aberdeen to Kirkwall (this ferry then goes on to the Shetland Islands- it runs 3/4 times a week in summer.)

Don’t forget, this was an unplanned addition to our North Coast 500 itinerary and route , so we didn’t save any money by booking in advance and we bought all our food over there.

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Watch the video of our trip & ferry crossing to Orkney

If you’d like to see a video of our day trip to Orkney, including the ferry crossings and what to expect onboard, here it is:

We hope you found the video useful. If you did, we’d love it if you followed us on Youtube . New videos with tips for motorhoming and campervanning in the UK and Europe are released weekly.

How to get to Orkney by ferry- step by step

If you’re adding a trip to Orkney into your NC500 road trip itinerary , or have come all the way up north just to go to Orkney, here’s how to get there, whether for a day trip or longer.

Scrabster to Stromness Ferry to Orkney

We caught the early morning ferry (0630!!!!) from Scrabster which arrives in Stromness at 0845.

Once onboard, we did what most people do and headed for the canteen, where they were serving breakfast. We were pleased to find breakfast was a buffet and it was delicious- much better standard than other ferries we’ve eaten on.

In the middle of breakfast, we were excited to see Dolphins jumping around the bow. With my exceptional camera skills, I managed to miss EVERY SINGLE ONE…. but I have an awful lot of pictures of the splashes they made- as you can see in the video!

I was amazed at how smooth the water was- this is the dreaded North Sea for goodness sake. It was like a millpond.

On the ferry to Orkney- from Scrabster to Stromness

It was warm and calm, so our daughter Jade settled down in a corner of the deck and went to sleep. She also missed all the dolphins.

Ferry past the Old Man of Hoy

One of the main tourist attractions in Orkney is the Old Man of Hoy- a rock formation which funnily enough is on the Isle of Hoy. We weren’t going to Hoy but we were pleased to find the ferry sailed straight past it and we got a fabulous view!

How to get to Orkney by ferry- Sailing past the Old Man of Hoy on the ferry to Orkney

Ferry to Orkney- Arriving at Stromness

The approach to Stromness was absolutely breathtaking. Yes, we were lucky with the weather, but sailing around the top of Hoy and seeing Mainland and the other islands appear before us was like entering a magical wonderland.

As sailors ourselves, we’ve always loved approaching new lands and exploring harbours- this place was absolute heaven for us.

We both wished we had a small sailboat to explore all the little creeks and inlets which we passed. Just a shame it’s in Scotland and the weather is not like this very often!!

Arriving into Stromness Harbour on the ferry to Orkney

Things to do in Orkney- One day trip itinerary

When we docked, we dutifully headed off the ship and set off on our whistle-stop day trip.

We used a tourist map to plan our itinerary and followed the road signs, which were very good and exactly as you would expect on British roads.

The first place we headed for was Skara Brae, which is apparently one of the best-preserved Stone Age villages in Europe. However, just as we got off the bikes in the car parks we saw seven- yes, SEVEN- large coaches pull up and unload their passengers.

That’s roughly 500 people queueing and waiting to get into the same small exhibit! Not at all what we had in mind.

We thought about launching the drone to see the village from the air, but there wasn’t anywhere suitable that was away from roads and people, so we decided to head on to the next attraction and hopefully beat all the other tourists there.

Ring of Brodgar

orkney travel to

This strategy actually worked out really well. When we arrived at the Ring of Brodgar (a ring of huge standing stones, similar to Stonehenge ), there were very few people around and we were able to wander among the stones almost by ourselves for about 20 minutes.

It was really cool how you could actually touch the stones and imagine just how many people had done that over the previous years.

It’s a UNESCO world heritage site and was built around 2500-2000BC. As with other stone rings, there is some debate about what it was used for- religion, astronomy, social gatherings, burials- but not knowing adds to the mystique!

Whatever you believe, I totally recommend a visit. It was free as well, which was incredible.

We also took the opportunity to send up our favourite travel drone and got these incredible photos!

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The next place we wanted to visit was Maeshowe- a massive burial chamber under a mound.

The pictures looked really cool and of course Jade was excited about the prospect of seeing dead bodies. (NOTE- we have no idea if there are dead bodies to see- she just assumed there would be!)

HOWEVER- you can only enter Maeshowe as part of a guided tour…. and in Summer these sell out really quickly.

We were disappointed to find that we couldn’t get in at all that day- something to learn for the future should we ever go back. If you want to book tickets, you can buy them from Visit Orkney

Kirkwall is the capital city of Orkney- and by capital I mean largest village. Or perhaps a small town.

There are lots of cafes and restaurants and some gorgeous boutique shops with all sorts of beautiful things you don’t need but really want.

One of the main attractions of Kirkwall, apart from the food & shopping, is St Magnus’ Cathedral.

This imposing and beautiful building was built by the Vikings in 1137 and took over 300 years to build! I believe it’s possible to climb up the steeple and experience the views (and see the old Hangman’s ladder) but we didn’t get a chance to do this.

Instead, we enjoyed the beautiful stained glass inside the Cathedral, and then sat on the grass eating our lunch and enjoying the sunshine.

Day trip to Orkney itinerary- South Ronaldsway

After a relaxing lunch in the sunshine, we headed off on the last leg of our journey to catch the ferry back to mainland Scotland.

Italian Chapel on Orkney

We stopped at the Italian Chapel. In WWII, a lot of Italian POWs were sent to Orkney to build barricades against German submarines.

orkney travel to

Whilst they were here, they built this beautiful white chapel, which stands as a complete contrast against the fairly bleak landscape.

The Orcadians are very proud of this chapel and work hard to keep it in excellent condition as a memorial to the war and a hope for future peace.

The weather on Orkney

The Italian Chapel is right by the start of a series of bridges which connects the small islands of Burray & South Ronaldsay to Mainland. Just as we were crossing the first of these bridges, we suddenly found ourselves in the middle of a deluge!

Seriously, it rained so hard we couldn’t see the road in front of us- which was extra fun considering we were on motorbikes.

We skidded into the next turn-off and gratefully saw the sign ‘cafe’. The poor staff probably didn’t know what to think when we appeared in the doorway, soaked through and looking very sorry for ourselves!

Luckily they provided us with hot drinks and cake- and our misery passed as quickly as the storm (about 10 minutes.)

It turns out that heavy downpours like that are very common in Orkney and don’t give much warning, even on days when it is warm and sunny earlier in the day.

So, the moral of the story is to take rain gear, even on beautiful warm sunny days in the middle of July!

Having thoroughly dried out, we set off to get to the end of South Ronaldsay- just so we could feel we’d done the island ‘properly’. In truth, it was just a lot of farmland and some pretty views of the sea, but not much else.

This sea is actually the famous Scapa Flow, which played host to the British Naval fleet during both World Wars.

It was from here that the Great Fleet set out for the Battle of Jutland in 1916 and also where the German fleet was bought to after the 1918 Armistice before it was scuttled.

In WW2, HMS Royal Oak was anchored in Scapa Flow when she was torpedoed by a German U-Boat, which caused Churchill to order the building of the ‘Churchill Barriers’ to protect our ships.

The barriers can still be seen today. We actually really enjoyed learning about this period of history. As an ex-Naval Officer, I’d heard lots of the stories- but seeing it for ourselves made it a lot more real.

orkney travel to

Gills Bay Ferry from St Margarets Hope- ferry back to mainland Scotland

The ferry back went from St Margarets Hope back to Gills Bay (nr John o’Groats). This was with Pentland ferries.

This ferry was slightly quicker than our journey out and only took about an hour. We sailed out over Scapa Flow and luckily the sea was as calm as before- although the bikes were still strapped down well.

orkney travel to

We arrived back in Gills Bay without incident and even made it to the chip shop in Castletown before it closed- a perfect end to a day of adventure!

Here are some of the most frequently asked questions about visiting Orkney:

Do I need a passport to visit Orkney?

Nope. Not at all. You might need photo ID if you have to collect tickets or if you have applied for some sort of discount on the ferry, but that’s it. Easy peasy!

Can you take a car or motorhome to Orkney?

Yes! The main ferries to Orkney are more than big enough to accommodate cars, motorhomes, campers or motorbikes (which is what we took!)

Do you NEED a car or vehicle on Orkney?

Yes. Unless you’re going on a coach tour, you need some form of transport on Orkney. There is public transport, but it’s not as frequent as you might hope.

Having your own vehicle will allow you the freedom to go where you wish, beat the coach crowds and explore at your leisure.

We enjoyed riding our motorbikes, but having a car or even better the motorhome with a toilet and kettle would have been even easier!

We might even have spent the night motorhome wild camping in Orkney, which would have been fun!

Driving/ riding a motorbike in Orkney

Driving in Orkney is very easy. The roads are signposted and the traffic is not very busy at all. It’s mainly single track ‘A’ roads- I don’t think we had any dual carriageways and certainly no motorways, so there is plenty of time to look around you and enjoy the incredible views.

There is a lot of farmland and green open spaces, with peeks of the sea beyond. For some reason, I expected there to be more mountains- like the Scottish Highlands, but it was relatively flat with a few moderate hills at best.

How long should you spend visiting Orkney?

If you’re just doing Mainland, a day trip is doable, but a bit rushed, especially in Summer if you want to do all the attractions.

If we went back, we’d take the motorhome and stay for a night or two, giving us time to really explore and learn more about the history of the Islands.

How to visit Orkney- final thoughts

All in all, our visit to Orkney was a great day trip- even with the downpour and a tired and slightly grumpy teenager.

It was an excellent way to spend our time once we’d reached the north of Scotland and we recommend it to anyone.

Have you ever visited Orkney? Did you have a good or bad experience? Let me know in the comments below.

How else can I help you today??

Planning a trip to Orkney or Scotland? These posts might help:

  • 5 of the best scenic road trips in Scotland
  • The ULTIMATE 7-10 day Scotland Itinerary
  • Isle of Skye itinerary – everything you need to plan your perfect visit
  • Scotland- Complete travel Guide

See all our Scotland tips and ideas

See all our UK travel itineraries and tips

Kathryn Bird

Kat never planned to buy a motorhome. She also never planned to quit her job as an air traffic controller, go touring around Europe in said motorhome, start one of the UK’s largest motorhome travel websites… or get a cocker spaniel.

Find out how she went from stuck in the rat race to being a digital nomad and inspiring thousands of people to have their own epic adventures here.

If you’d like to connect with Kat, send her an email or follow her adventures on social media.

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What a cool day trip – I never thought it would be worth to go to Orkney for just one day, but it sounds like you fit in a lot! We’re doing the NC50 next year, so hopefully we can hop over for a day too!

Hope you can make it- Orkney is a beautiful place to explore 🙂

I’m definitely going to do just that, looked amazing ?

You definitely should- visiting Orkney was a lot of fun

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Orkney & Shetland Island Hopping - Itinerary

So, what awaits you in Orkney and Shetland? For starters, each has a distinctive culture, natural wonders and a number of fascinating geological sites. Lying off Scotland's north coast, surrounded by crystal-clear waters, these two archipelagos are rather special places indeed.

Take a 12-day trip through this charming scattering of islands where you'll discover some of the most stunning coastal scenery in the world, remarkable wildlife, ancient archaeological sites, pristine beaches and much more.

You can fly directly to Orkney and Shetland with  Loganair .

  • Distance 398 Miles 637 km
  • Transport Car
  • Main theme Islands

Day 1 Orkney - Kirkwall & Stromness

It's the first day of your adventure and it's going to be a good one! Get your bearings on Orkney's Mainland, the largest of the islands in Orkney, and explore town, coastline and the famous Skara Brae.

Kirkwall Kirkwall

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Four brightly coloured fishing boats in the harbour at Kirkwall, decked with buoys and nets, with the stone buildings of the town lining the water

© Iain Sarjeant, all rights reserved.

Immerse yourself in the Orcadian capital of Kirkwall and learn about the island's fascinating history on a visit to its many historic sites including St Magnus Cathedral, a magnificent red sandstone building that dominates the skyline for miles around.

Stromness Stromness

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Looking across the bay to Stromness harbour. The small houses sit right on the edge of the sea, each with a steep private jetty down to the water

© Daniel J Allen, all rights reserved.

The captivating old town of Stromness is located on the shore of Hamnavoe, an inlet of Scapa Flow, and is the main ferry port on Orkney. Stroll around the pretty town and pop into Stromness Museum to learn about Orkney's natural and maritime history. Feeling peckish? Then grab a bite to eat at one of the town's excellent cafés and bistros.

Yesnaby Orkney

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Yesnaby Castle sea stack on the west coast of Orkney

Gaze out at the remarkable rock formation of Yesnaby Castle, a two-legged sea stack popular with climbers. Bring along binoculars and see how many different kinds of bird species you can spot while enjoying a revitalising coastal walk.

Yesnaby is also one of the few places where the rare and delicate flowering plant primula Scotica - more commonly known as Scottish primrose - grows. Visit in the summer when the clifftops are dotted with these vivid magenta flowers.

Skara Brae Prehistoric Village Sandwick

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Skara Brae Prehistoric Village

Visit Skara Brae, one of the most remarkable prehistoric sites in the world. Older than the Egyptian pyramids, the Neolithic settlement is located on the Bay of Skaill. Uncovered by a sandstorm in 1850, it offers an unparalleled insight into how life was lived by Orkney's earliest inhabitants between 3200 and 2200 BC.

  • On Public Transport Route
  • Accessible Parking Or Drop-off Point
  • Hearing Loop
  • Cafe or Restaurant

Day 2 The Heart of Neolithic Orkney

Dedicate your second day in Orkney to unearthing the other archaeological treasures which form the Heart of Neolithic Orkney, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You might feel like you're Indiana Jones by the end of today!

Brough of Birsay Birsay

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Looking Across To The Brough Of Birsay Across Skipi Geo From From The Whalebone On the Mainland.

© VisitScotland / Paul Tomkins

Make a stop at the Brough of Birsay, the remnants of Pictish and Viking settlements which are believed to date from the 7th -13th century. Here, you'll find traces of Viking and even older Pictish homes, the remains of a Viking monastery, an 11th century sauna, and the cast of a Pictish standing stone with its engravings still visible (the original is on display at the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh).

Maeshowe Chambered Cairn Orkney

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Maeshowe Chambered Cairn

Maeshowe is the finest chambered tomb in north west Europe and is more than 5,000 years old.

Viking crusaders broke into the cairn in the 12th century and carved graffiti runes on the walls of the main chamber. Maeshowe is part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site, along with Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar and the Stones of Stenness.

Ring of Brodgar Stromness

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Ring of Brodgar

One of the finest stone circles in the world. Dating back from 2,500 to 2,000 BC, the stone ring was built in a true circle, 104 metres wide and originally contained sixty megaliths; today only twenty-seven of these stones remain.

Day 3 Isle of Hoy

Set off by ferry from Houton and head to the Isle of Hoy. Today you'll explore the second largest island in Orkney and enjoy its coastal delights.

Old Man of Hoy Hoy

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Picnic At The Old Man Of Hoy, Orkney

© VisitScotland / Colin Keldie

Enjoy a bracing walk to the Old Man of Hoy, a dramatic sea stack which is the tallest in Britain and considered one of the most challenging ascents in the UK by climbers.

For detailed information about this walk, please visit the Walk Highlands website .

Scapa Flow Orkney

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Why not explore the southern end of Hoy? At Scapa Flow Visitor Centre & Museum you can discover the major role Orkney played during both World Wars when the natural harbour of Scapa Flow served as a vital base for the British Royal Navy.

Day 4 Lamb Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay

Today you'll cross back to Orkney Mainland, before heading to other islands via the causeways known as the Churchill Barriers and getting a further insight into two very different eras of Orkney's history.

The Italian Chapel Orkney

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The Italian Chapel

Visit the Italian Chapel, a beautiful Roman Catholic chapel in Lamb Holm which was constructed by Italian POWs during the Second World War.

  • Level Access

Day 5 Westray

Take a ferry from Kirkwall to the Isle of Westray, where you can discover this island's natural beauty and unique heritage.

Westray Heritage Centre Westray

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Westray Heritage Centre

Westray is famed for being the site of the discovery of the Orkney Venus. Also known as the Westray Wife, it's a small Neolithic figurine which is the oldest representation of a human form ever found in Scotland, and the oldest depiction of a human face ever uncovered in the UK. At the Westray Heritage Centre in Pierowall , you can even pick up scrumptious shortbread biscuits in the shape of the Orkney Venus. Never has archaeology tasted so scrumptious!

Westray Orkney

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Pure white sand in the foreground in the bay of Pierowall gives way to turquoise water with green fields over the sea

© Iain Sarjeant / VisitScotland

One of the first places in Orkney to be settled by the Vikings, Westray is small enough to explore by bike or car over the course of a day. On the coastline, you might spot puffins or other seabirds. Pop into one of the island's art galleries and see artworks and crafts inspired by Westray's beautiful blend of coastline and landscape.

Day 6 Kirkwall

It's been a busy few days in Orkney, but your last day on these islands has finally arrived. Before you set off for Shetland, explore more of Kirkwall's cultural offerings.

Arts and crafts Kirkwall

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St Magnus Cathedral

© Orkney.com

Uncover more of Orkney's flourishing arts and crafts scene, where everything from jewellery to furniture is made. Explore the town's many galleries and shops and keep your eyes peeled for unique items.

The Orkney Museum Kirkwall

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The Orkney Museum

Enjoy a wander around the Orkney Museum. Housed inside a beautifully restored merchant's residence, the museum offers a fascinating insight into Orkney's rich archaeological heritage. 

Day 7 Lerwick

You are now 100 miles from the Scottish mainland on the most northerly of the British Isles! Wake up and disembark from the ferry in Lerwick, the main port and bustling capital of Shetland. Spend today getting to know this harbour town and see its sights.

Shetland Museum & Archives Lerwick

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Shetland Museum and Archives

Set on the waterfront within a restored 19th century dock in Lerwick, this fascinating museum tells the story of Shetland’s heritage and culture. 

  • Accessible toilets

Clickimin Broch Near Lerwick

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Clickimin Broch in Lerwick at night

Make the most of the fresh air and head to Clickimin Broch, the remnants of an Iron Age defensive tower located just outside Lerwick.

Fort Charlotte Lerwick

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A NorthLink ferry sails from Aberdeen to Lerwick

© NorthLink Ferries

In the heart of Lerwick you'll find Fort Charlotte, an 18th century five-sided artillery fort which was named after the wife of George III. Originally built to protect the Sound of Bressay from the Dutch, Fort Charlotte is now a training base of the Territorial Army.

Pubs and bars Lerwick

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Fjarå Café Bar, Lerwick

© Promote Shetland / Euan Myles

Find a cosy watering hole in Lerwick where you can sit back and relax with a locally brewed ale. If you're lucky, you might even stumble upon a lively jam session held by local musicians. Shetland boasts a thriving local music scene and you'll find that many of its musicians gather in pubs and bars during the evenings.

Day 8 South Mainland

We suggest an early start today - there's a lot to fit in! Today you'll be heading south to experience remarkable heritage sites. Soak up the history and imagine life in eras gone by!

Shetland Crofthouse Museum Lerwick

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Historical Shetland Crofthouse Museum

Step back in time at this restored 19th century thatched cottage and see how Shetlanders would have lived in the 1870s.

Jarlshof Prehistoric & Norse Settlement South Mainland

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Jarlshof Prehistoric & Norse Settlement, Sumburgh

The Jarlshof Prehistoric and Norse settlements in Shetland are one of the most important and inspirational archaeological sites in Scotland.

Old Scatness Broch South Mainland

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Old Scatness

Another amazingly well-preserved archaeological site is Old Scatness Broch, the remnants of an ancient village which lay buried for almost 2,000 years before being unearthed by archaeologists. Find out about the Neolithic, Pictish and Viking people who lived here at the site's excellent interpretive centre, and on guided tours which are available through the summer months.

Please note that Old Scatness is only open on Fridays. 

Sumburgh Head Nature Reserve South Mainland

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Waves crashing into a large rock in the sea.

Sumburgh Head is located at the southern tip of mainland Shetland with the majestic 100 metre cliffs offering a fantastic, unobstructed view of the seabird colonies and marine life surrounding it.

  • Pets Welcome

Mousa Broch Sandwick

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A couple exploring Mousa Broch

You can take a boat out to see one of Europe's finest archaeological marvels. Standing at a height of more than 13 m, Mousa Broch is the most impressive and best preserved Iron Age tower in Scotland. After a short boat crossing from Sandwick, you can climb the narrow steps to the top of the broch and take in breathtaking views across Mousa Sound.  If you take the boat trip in the evening, you might witness a thrilling natural spectacle, when swarms of storm petrels seek the cover of darkness and return to their nests inside the broch.

St Ninian's Isle South Mainland

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St Ninian's Isle, joined to Mainland by a tombolo of sand at Bigton, Shetland.

© VisitScotland / Paul Tomkins, all rights reserved.

St. Ninians Isle beach is a large natural sand causeway with sea on either side. On the west coast of Shetland, it links the South Mainland with the Isle. This is the location where a horde of silver Viking treasure was discovered hidden beneath the island's chapel in 1958.

Day 9 Central Mainland

Explore the central mainland of Shetland, including the sheltered seaport of Scalloway, only 6 miles from Lerwick. It was known as the capital of the islands till 1708 and has had its fair share of history.

Scalloway Museum Shetland

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Scalloway Museum

Visit the Scalloway Museum and discover the fascinating story of the Shetland Bus, the name given to a covert wartime operation. Conducted between the Royal Navy and the Norwegian Resistance, it involved Shetland fishing vessels helping to transport supplies, weapons and Allied agents out of Nazi-occupied Norway. The Museum also has exhibits covering Ancient Scalloway, The Boom Years and Scalloway’s people.

Central Mainland Shetland

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Central Mainland

Make your way to Whiteness and Weisdale, passing through the Tingwall Valley, where the Vikings are said to have held their annual parliament. Whiteness and Weisadale are popular walking spots. There's an abundance of indigenous flora and fauna, pretty bays and some of the loveliest views in all of Shetland.

Day 10 North West Mainland

Today, explore the north west part of the Shetland Mainland, known as the Northmavine peninsula, and discover local history and stretch your legs and see the best of Shetland's landscape on a rejuvenating walk!

Tangwick Haa Museum North Mainland

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Tangwick Haa Museum

Originally built in the late 17th century for the Cheyne family, owners of the Tangwick estate, Tangwick Haa was converted into a local history museum in the late 1980s which displays exhibits relating to the development of Northmavine and its people.

Eshaness Eshaness

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The Eshaness Cliffs

Soak up the area's natural beauty on the picturesque circular walking route and discover some of Shetland's wildest and most breathtaking coastline.

Day 11 Unst

Cross from the Mainland to the island of Yell, and then catch the 10 minute ferry crossing to neighbouring Unst, Britain's most northerly island to uncover the remnants of the Vikings, see incredible geology and admire the island's natural heritage.

Viking Heritage on Unst Unst

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Jarl Squad March with their replica Viking galley

Explore the excavated Viking longhouse sites of Unst. Highlights of which include the reconstructed longhouse at Hamar and the nearby Skidbladner, an impressive replica Gokstad ship. Managed by the Shetland Amenity Trust, you can find out just what the digs revealed about the Norse Vikings who settled on the islands.

Unst Heritage Centre Unst

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Unst Heritage Centre

The island has the distinction of being home to the highest number of Viking longhouse remnants in the world. At Unst Heritage Museum and Unst Boat Haven in Haroldswick, find out more about the archaeological digs and Shetland's maritime history.

Hermaness National Nature Reserve Shetland

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Hermaness National Nature Reserve

Unst is a bit of a nature lover's paradise, and a visit to one of its beautiful National Nature Reserves is a must. Explore the sweeping hillsides of Keen of Hamar or at Hermaness, walk to the dramatic cliff and see thousands of breeding seabirds, such a puffins, kittiwakes and fulmars.

Day 12 Yell

It's the final day! Depart Unst and start to make your way back to Shetland Mainland. Before you leave Shetland and catch the evening ferry departure from Lerwick, you might just have time to catch some of Yell's natural highlights. You'll find some of the best beaches in the UK!

Sands of Breckon Yell

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The Sands Of Breckon (An Award Winning White Sand Beach And Arguably Shetland's Finest), On The Island Of Yell, Shetland

In the very north of the island, you can discover the Sands of Breckon, where shell sand dunes are bordered by crystal clear waters and dune grass lands.

West Sandwick Yell

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West Sandwick

Visit West Sandwick on Yell's western coastline, close to the villages of Shandwick and Balintore and enjoy a stroll along unspoilt white sands.

Old Haa Yell

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At Burravore in the south of the island, discover the story of Yell's folklore and history at the Old Haa, a museum set in the house of a 17th century laird. You can also see artworks by local creative talents, or tuck into some home-baking in the tearoom.

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How To Get To The Orkney Islands

Find out how to get to the orkney islands by ferry, plane and how to take your car to the beautiful isles..

Orkney Islands cliffs

When it comes to unique places to travel to in Britain, the Orkney Islands are one of the UK’s best-kept secrets. This small archipelago in the North Sea offers amazing landscapes, lots of wildlife, prehistoric and Viking-era ruins, and a fantastic food scene.

Yesnaby Cliffs

Nature, history, and cuisine aside, Orkney is also home to some of the world’s best diving locations, so if you’re looking for an action-packed adventure holiday, don’t miss our guide to the best things to do in the Orkney Islands .

If you’ve got your heart set on visiting, it’s time to plan your route there. This guide is full of tips on how to get to the Orkney Islands, whether you want to fly, catch a ferry or take your car.

Isle of Hoy, Orkney Islands

How to Get To The Orkney Islands

Getting to the Orkney islands is surprisingly easy. Despite their remote location, there are several excellent options to reach the islands, including flying, driving, or hopping on board a local ferry.

How to Get to the Orkney Islands by Air

If you plan to hop on a plane, your best bet is Loganair airlines, which operate between mainland UK and Orkney.

Flights run from Glasgow, Aberdeen, Inverness, Edinburgh, and Shetland to Kirkwall, and take between 35 to 60 minutes. This is a great option if you’re pressed for time – fly in, explore the islands, and fly out again!

Orkney Islands view

Once in Orkney, you can rent a car in Kirkwall to get around the islands or enjoy island hopping using the archipelago’s network of local ferries.

How to Get to the Orkney Islands by Bus

Fancy backpacking around the islands? Citylink has easy routes from Aberdeen, Thurso, and Gills Bay. Between May and September, there is also the Orkney Bus option which goes all the way from Inverness to Kirkwall using the John O’Groats crossing. Traveling by bus tends to be one of the cheapest ways to get to Orkney, so is perfect if you’re on a budget.

How to Get to the Orkney Islands by Ferry

A more adventurous option to get to Orkney is by sea. There are several passenger ferry options from northern Scotland taking passengers to either Kirkwall or Stromness on the main island of Orkney.

northlink ferry

For Kirkwall, check out NorthLink Ferries which sail from Aberdeen, or Pentland Ferries sailing from Gill’s Bay to St Margaret’s Hope.

For Stromness, the best ferry option is NorthLink from Scrabster to Stromness but bear in mind that this particular crossing can often be choppy! During the summer months, there is also the John O’Groats ferry to Burwick, which usually runs from May to September.

Stromness town in Orkney

Ferry passage to Orkney costs from £21-£33 one way from Aberdeen to Kirkwall, whereas the Scrabster – Stromness passage is £17-£20. If you’re travelling with family, fares for children are usually around 50% of an adult ticket.

For more information on fares and the ferry schedule, be sure to check the NorthLink ferries website .

How to Get to the Orkney Islands by Car

Exploring the Orkney Islands by car is a fantastic way to travel, as you’ll have more freedom and flexibility during your trip. To get to Orkney by car you have a few options. You could head to Aberdeen and take the ferry to Kirkwall or drive to Scrabster and jump on the Stromness ferry.

Orkney Islands road trip

The Kirkwall ferry takes six hours, while the passage from Scrabster is a mere 90 minutes.

Fares from Aberdeen to Kirkwall vary from £86-£112 for a vehicle, and £57-£63 from Scrabster to Stromness. You’ll need to pay for accommodation and passengers separately.

Orkney Islands view

We hope this helps you plan your trip to the Orkney Islands. Don’t forget to read our guide to the best things to do on the islands too . Have a great trip!

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Why it's never been easier to visit the Orkney archipelago

A fter slumbering through the winter, the darkest depths of which feature just six hours of daylight, it’s about now that the Orkney Islands begin to lure visitors to their shores once more. And from this spring, a new kind of traveller will be heading north: Londoners. 

Until now, connections to the islands from England have been fiddly, requiring a stop in Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Inverness or Glasgow. Earlier this month, though, LoganAir began flying passengers direct from London City Airport (planes land to refuel in Glasgow but passengers stay onboard). Direct flights from Manchester are arriving soon, too. What was previously a five-hour journey becomes a more manageable three hours and 10 minutes. 

Some say the 70-island archipelago technically belongs to Norway – the coast of which is closer than London – after being given as a deposit in 1468 for the dowry of a princess, whose father never paid. A third of present-day locals can trace their lineage back to Viking stock. Indeed Orkney offers the ideal escape for those looking for a trip to Scandinavia but don’t fancy visiting the bureau de change. Viking villages, whale-watching, even the Northern lights: if you can find it in Norway, you can probably also find it here. 

Arriving at Orkney’s Kirkwall airport is an adventure in itself. Orkney is bedevilled by winds which whip up and whoosh away foul weather in moments. Not half-an-hour before landing I’d been gazing down to clear views of the snow capped peaks of the Cairngorms, but as the sun set, a sea of thick clouds enveloped us. We skidded onto the tiny runway in a grim drizzle. By the time my taxi dropped me off at the recently renovated Kirkwall Hotel the skies over the harbour were clear, yet when I set out to dinner, the rain was back. All within the space of 30 minutes. 

Happily, the seafood will take your mind off the forecast. Platefuls of palm-sized scallops greeted me everywhere I went, along with fresh lobster and meaty fillets of cod and salmon. At Hamnavoe, a cosy restaurant tucked into a side-street in Stromness, the second largest town (after Kirkwall) on Orkney Mainland my waiter informed me that free-divers and local fishermen collect most of this produce by hand. 

The islands are also home to a winery, three gin makers, a rumery, two brewers, and, of course, three whisky distilleries: Kimbland, Highland Park and Scapa. I visited the last on this list, on the shores of Scapa Flow, one of the world’s largest natural harbours. The distillery has been operating since 1885, and ferments its spirit for more than six days, longer than any other Scottish distillery. It apparently makes the resulting alcohol smoother and adds a fruity profile. 

I can vouch for this because I had the opportunity to try it at Scapa Noust, a new tasting room designed by Orcadian architect Mark Freston. Heated by a wood-burning stove, the tasting room is shaped like a traditional Viking hall, complete with a ceiling designed to resemble an upturned boat. 

In spite of the gales, I could have stood for hours on the clifftops at Yesnaby, on Orkney Main’s west coast, watching the violent swirl of the sea below. My guide, Paul, an affable Merseysider who moved to Kirkwall to set up a food business called JP Orkney with his wife six years ago, orders me to squint. “See if you can see Canada,” he shouts over the gusts. “That’s the next landmass on the horizon.” 

Wildlife watchers love Orkney. The only predators are airbourne – sea and golden eagles nest on the isles – so the place abounds with hares, rabbits, and otters which show precious little fear of humans. In summer seals bob about in the bright water below, and you can spot pods of orca which come to hunt them. Paul points out a short-eared owl sitting on a fencepost beside the road. 

“You see them all the time,” he explains, “humans cut down most of the trees and with the constant wind it’s quite hard to grow new ones, so the owls sit there.” 

The islands’ Viking heritage is shown in all its splendour at St Magnus’s, the huge red-brick cathedral which dominates the centre of Kirkwall. Founded in 1137 by Earl Rognvald, construction took 300 years, by which point two of the ruddy brick trunks were bending backwards towards the shoreline, which is now the high street. Even the stained glass windows show Viking histories rather than traditional Bible stories, while high windows make Britain’s most Northern cathedral more foreboding than its southerly counterparts. 

Of course, history goes back even further than Vikings around here. In the grounds of Skaill House, the windswept ancestral manor of the Lairds Of Breckness (now a museum) I visited the neolithic village of Skara Brae, occupied around 3,200 years ago. That’s roughly five centuries before the Egyptians laid the first bricks of the Great Pyramid at Giza. Down the road stand the Ring Of Brodgar and the Standing Stones Of Stenness, two neolithic circles of vast stone monoliths erected hundreds of years before Stonehenge. According to Paul, the “henge trend” began here and made its way southwards, eventually culminating in Wiltshire’s famed example. 

Despite being part of the UK, a visit to Orkney feels like a window into a different world – a place that's older, wiser and wilder. As average tourists spend three hours getting most-of-the-way to Windermere or half-way to Cornwall from London, the true trailfinders looking for a real adventure could do worse than exploring this brilliant British archipelago.

The essentials 

Getting there.

Jack travelled as a guest of LoganAir ( loganair.co.uk ), which operates flights to Kirkwall, Orkney’s main airport, from Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Inverness, Dundee, and Glasgow. Flights from London City Airport cost from £118 each way, inclusive of 15kg luggage.

Staying there

Right in the harbourside in the centre of Orkney’s main town, Kirkwall, is The Kirkwall Hotel , which offers doubles from £130 including breakfast. 

Getting around 

Avis, Europcar and Orkney Car Hire offer hire cars from £70 per day, but most of the local guides including JP Orkney , have their own vehicles and offer tailor-made tours from anywhere on Orkney Main (prices on enquiry.)

Eating there

The Storehouse Restaurant in Kirkwall is a cosy spot offering traditional Orcadian cuisine, and a full drinks list of Orkney-made beers and spirits at reasonable prices.

Those seeking fine-dining might prefer Hamnavoe in Stromness which offers a seasonal menu that fuses European and Asian flavours, with nods to the Korean heritage of the chef.

Drinking there

Scapa Distillery’s ‘Scapa Noust’ tasting room is a cosy spot to sample the distillery’s unique whiskies, with stunning views onto Scapa Flow. Tastings start at £40. 

Seeing there

Entrance to the neolithic village of Skara Brae costs £11, including access to the visitor centre, Skaill House, and the archaeological site itself. 

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The Yesnaby cliffs and the Yesnaby Sea Stack on the west coast of Mainland Orkney - getty

Rapist jailed for 'abhorrent' sex attacks spanning three decades in Orkney and Shetland

Sean Casey, 69, repeatedly raped one woman and twice and indecently assaulted another. A court heard he continues to deny any wrongdoing.

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Scotland reporter @Jenster13

Thursday 11 April 2024 13:45, UK

Sean Casey. Pic: Police Scotland

A rapist whose campaign of sexual violence spanned three decades has been jailed for 11 years. 

Sean Casey, 69, repeatedly raped one woman and twice and indecently assaulted another.

His offending, going back to the 1990s, occurred in the Orkney and Shetland areas.

Judge William Summers stated: "Your crimes are abhorrent.

"The nature of your offending is such that it will inevitably have caused serious psychological harm to the complainers. That much is clear from the victim impact statements."

Casey was last month found guilty of multiple rapes and indecent assault following a trial at the High Court in Aberdeen . He was sentenced on Wednesday.

Judge Summers said Casey continued to deny any wrongdoing.

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He said: "You do not accept any responsibility for your sexual offending. In consequence, you show no remorse or victim empathy."

Judge Summers noted Casey only had one previous conviction.

He added: "You have never previously served a custodial sentence but it is clear, given the gravity of your offending, that there is no alternative to the imposition of a lengthy custodial sentence."

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Along with the 11-year jail-term, Casey was also placed on the sex offenders' register indefinitely.

Judge Summers added: "It is to be hoped that the two courageous women who survived your sexual abuse will be able to put it behind them and that it does not come to define them."

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Following the court case, Detective Constable Emma Ellis said Casey was now facing the consequences of his actions.

"I hope these women will take some form of justice from the outcome in court as they continue to move forward with their lives," she said.

"I'd urge anyone who has been the victim of a sexual crime, regardless of when it happened, to come forward and report it to us.

"Police Scotland is committed to tackling sexual crimes and bringing those responsible before the courts. We have specially trained officers and partner agencies who will support you throughout the process."

Related Topics

Orkney Travel | Private Guided Tours Orkney | Group Guided Tours Orkney | Orkney Highlights Tours

Orkney Travel | Private Guided Tours Orkney | Group Guided Tours Orkney | Orkney Highlights Tours

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Orkney West Mainland Tour - Kirkwall Departure

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West Mainland Tour

(1st May 2024 until 27th September 2024) Every Monday, Wednesday and Friday - 10.30am Start at Kirkwall Travel Centre The West Mainland Tour is a semi private tour that takes you to some of the most fabulous spots on the West Mainland of Orkney. The tour starts at Kirkwall Travel Centre in the centre of Kirkwall and takes a scenic drive looking at the magnificent Scapa Flow, which was the main British naval base during both World Wars. Your guide will tell you about some of the major events that happened in the waters of Scapa Flow. The first stop is Unstan Tomb, a 5,300 year old burial chamber situated on the edge of Stenness Loch. The next stop is a photo stop at the Cliffs of Yesnaby, some of the most stunning coastal scenery on the Orkney Islands. Next on the agenda is a guided tour of Skara Brae, discovered in 1850, it is considered the best-preserved Neolithic Village in Northern Europe. Your guide will tell you all about this magnificent 5000-year-old village. After the guided tour, you will get free time to have a look at the 400-year-old Skaill House or have a look around the Skara Brae visitor centre. The tour then goes on to the Ring of Brodgar. A spectacular henge monument dating back 4500 years. This stone circle has been part of the Orkney landscape for thousands of years. Finally, we will stop at the Standing Stones of Stenness, which is believed to be the oldest stone circle in the UK. All this for only £89 per person

Orkney West Mainland Tour - Kirkwall Departure

Our Itinerary

  • Scapa Flow - Stunning scenic views across this famous stretch of water used by the Royal Navy during both World Wars.
  • Unstan Tomb - 5,300 year old burial chamber.
  • Cliffs of Yesnaby - dramatic cliffs and stunning scenery.
  • Skara Brae - 5000 year old stone-age village, discovered in 1850 when a great storm blew away a sand dune to reveal the village beneath. (optional visit of Skaill House, one of Orkney's finest manor houses)
  • Ring of Brodgar - Stone circle and henge monument estimated to be around 4500 years old. Originally made up of 60 standing stones 27 remain standing today.
  • Standing Stones of Stenness - The smaller of two stone circles we will visit today, a beautiful monument built around 3100BC.

Frequently Asked Questions

When does the west mainland tour run.

We run the West Mainland Tour on a Monday, Wednesday and Friday from the start of May until the end of September. If you are looking for a tour outwith of these times or out of season, this may be possible subject to availability. We normally require at least 2 people to run an extra tour outwith of normal time.

Where do you depart from?

We depart from and return to the Kirkwall Travel Centre (normally Stand 5). If you are docking with a cruise ship from Hatston Pier, there are free shuttle buses that run from Hatston Pier to Kirkwall Travel Centre. Here is a pin for google maps. https://maps.app.goo.gl/E3fw7vMsCB8HM3QB7

What time does the West Mainland Tour depart and how long does it take?

The West Mainland tour departs Kirkwall Travel Centre at 10.30am and lasts for approximately 4.5 hours. Please arrive 10 minutes early however so we can depart on time. We aim to return to Kirkwall Travel Centre at 3pm. If you are in Kirkwall on a cruise ship then the driver may be able to drop you off at the cruise port.

Are you able to pick up from the cruise port?

We are unable to offer pick ups from the cruise port.

Tour Information

Meeting Point: Kirkwall Travel Centre When: Monday, Wednesday, Friday Start Time: 10.30am Duration: 4.5 hours Please bring snacks as there is no lunch stop on this tour, there is a cafe at Skara Brae where you may be able to buy lunch.

Transportation

8 seat minibus

What's Included

  • Driver Commentary
  • Guided Tour of Skara Brae and Ring of Brodgar
  • Admission Tickets
  • Complimentary Water

We modified this tour to roughly 5 hours. So we saw the Stones, Skara Brae ruins, The Tomb, and Hilltop view of Kirkwall. Garry provided a history of Orkney, was very accommodating and was willing to spend as much time as we wanted on the tour. Garry has a thick…

JEFFREY DODGE

Garry provided a day long tour of Orkney to our party of four through a largely wet and blustery day. The tour was superb. Garry was an excellent host & guide adapting the tour to our interests and the circumstances. He is very knowledgable on the history of the Orkney…

MICHAEL JEFFERY

This tour was fabulous. Garry was a terrific tour guide. Very sincere and also very proud of the Orkney Islands. We enjoyed him very much.

ROBERT BARROWS

We had a wonderful 5 hour tour with Garry. He was organized, extremely knowledgeable, and very engaging. We learned a great deal and gained insight into the history, nature, and character of the Orkneys. We couldn't have discovered the amazing sights he showed us on our own. Our needs and…

Garry was a terrific tour guide and made my two daughters and I fell very comfortable.He was very flexible with our schedule, very knowledgeable about the area and just an all round superb tour guide . We would highly recommend him!

WILLIAM CONSTANTINE

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Orkney hosts major marine renewable energy conference with the University of the Highlands and Islands and Heriot-Watt University

Published: 15 Apr 2024

EMEC deploys a tidal device in Orkney

Marine scientists from around the world are gathering in Orkney this week for a five-day international conference about marine renewable energy and the environment.

The event is co-hosted by University of the Highlands and Islands (UHI) and Heriot-Watt University and explores how marine renewable energy such as offshore wind and tidal energy interacts with marine wildlife, communities and the environment.

More than 100 delegates from destinations including the United States, the UK and Europe have signed up to join the event, which is called the Environmental Interactions of Marine Renewables (EIMR) International Conference 2024 .

We need to find a balance between the ecosystem effects of marine renewable energy developments and reducing carbon-emissions. Dr Karen Alexander, Heriot-Watt University

Conference co-chair Dr Karen Alexander is an Assistant Professor at Heriot-Watt University’s School of Energy, Geoscience, Infrastructure and Society and is a marine social scientist – a scientist who specialises in researching human interactions with the marine environment.

She said: “The aim of this conference is to bring together marine renewable experts from around the world to present latest findings in this space and to facilitate new ideas and directions.”

Rapid growth in the renewable energy sector inevitably brings areas of conflict, Dr Alexander added. For example, concerns about the potential impact of growth on communities and the environment. That’s why the theme of the EIMR conference is ‘Balance.’

“We need to find a balance between the ecosystem effects of marine renewable energy developments and reducing carbon-emissions,” Dr Alexander said. “We also need to find a balance between the societal impacts of renewable energy and economic growth – and between national goals to cut emissions – while making sure our coastal communities are resilient.”

Also co-chairing the conference is Joe Onoufriou, a Senior Marine Mammal Scientist at Marine Scotland, part of the Scottish Government responsible for managing Scotland’s seas.

He said: “To cut carbon emissions and tackle climate change, we need to generate renewable energy from the sea in ways that also support and benefit the environment and communities.

“There’s a wealth of expert science behind this, and it’s vital that we collaborate and share this knowledge across different disciplines, industries and geographies. Our conference in Orkney provides that platform.”

On behalf of UHI, Professor Ben Wilson, chair of the EIMR 2024 Scientific Advisory Committee, added:  "The offshore renewables market is global, yet the actual infrastructure has the potential for major consequences for the local people and wildlife where it is placed. This conference series was born in 2012 in recognition that it is important that local issues are not missed as energy supplies are decarbonised.

“Having been involved in this conference series since the start, I am now delighted that Karen and Joe are once again bringing this global community to the highlands and islands of Scotland to share the latest research results on best-practice and so to help make offshore renewable energy truly sustainable.” 

Research areas to be discussed at the event include how to create value for communities that interact with marine renewable sites and how developments such as offshore wind farms can affect marine wildlife. Delegates will also discuss research around the risks of animals colliding with renewable infrastructure such as wind turbine blades and how to address this. Other topics include how climate change can affect the ecosystems around marine energy sites.

Keynote speakers at the event include Kristopher Leask, an elected councillor at Orkney Islands Council and the policy manager for renewable energy charity Community Energy Scotland; Brian Polagye, an expert on marine renewable energy systems at the University of Washington in the United States and Alexander Gilliland, an ecosystem specialist at the Scottish Government’s Offshore Wind Directorate.

Also delivering keynote speeches are Neil Kermode, Managing Director of the Orkney-based European Marine Energy Centre, the world’s leading test facility for wave and tidal energy converters and Professor Richard A. Williams, Principal and Vice-Chancellor of Heriot-Watt University.

The Environmental Interactions of Marine Renewables Conference takes place in-person and online from 15-19 April 2024 at the Pickaquoy Centre (locally known as ‘the Picky’) in Kirkwall, Orkney, Scotland.

  • Journey Planner
  • Plan Your Trip

Finding your way to Orkney is easy with the orkney.com Journey Planner.

Our interactive tool can help you plan your trip to the islands from any location in the UK. All you have to do is choose your starting point and how you’d like to travel, then we’ll do the rest. The Journey Planner will provide options for travel, including road, rail and ferry connections, with all the links you need to help you book your tickets.

In some cases, we won’t be able to provide a comprehensive list of travel options, but once your dates and times are firmed up, you should be able to pick your perfect route.

Ready to get started? Simply type your UK starting location in the box below, or click the compass to use your current location. If you are outside the UK, remember to search for flights to get you to the UK first.

You can click the ‘More Info’ button at each stage for additional information too.

Our Journey Planner provides only land and ferry route information. We apologise that there is no flight information but you can find this out at Loganair . You can also find out more about travelling to Orkney with our Getting Here page , and please contact [email protected] if you have any further questions.

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Which UK ferry port would you prefer to sail from?

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The search field will automatically show results as you type.

Car & Ferry – drive from your start location to either Aberdeen, Scrabster or Gills Bay.

Car & Plane – drive to your preferred airport then fly to Orkney.

Public Transport & Ferry – check public transport routes and then sail from Aberdeen, Scrabster, Gills Bay or John O'Groats (summer only).

Public Transport & Plane – check public transport routes to your preferred airport then fly to Orkney.

Ferry Options

  • Aberdeen – enjoy an evening sail through the Moray Firth to Orkney – approx. 6hrs
  • Scrabster – sail from the very north of Scotland to Stromness – approx. 1hr30min
  • Gills Bay – take the short sea crossing to Orkney – approx. 1hr

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Direct flights are available from Glasgow (60 minutes), Edinburgh (60 minutes), Inverness (45 minutes), Aberdeen (50 minutes) and Shetland (35 minutes).

There are also excellent connections to other UK airports. Pick your preferred airport from the options (you can change this at the next step).

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