2000 ford excursion 7.3 transmission fluid capacity

7.3 Powerstroke Transmission Fluid: Guide

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Changing the transmission fluid in your 7.3 powerstroke on a regular basis is a must-do if you want your automobile to run well. The cost of this service is generally considerably more than that of doing it at a professional garage. In this article, we provide the most precise transmission fluid recommendations so you can do the job yourself correctly.

The oil in the gearbox must be changed at specific intervals in order to improve its life, usually once every 30,000–60,000 miles sometimes more – check your owner’s handbook for service intervals). You may have difficulty shifting if the transmission fluid becomes old. Your car may become sluggish or stop at red lights when you don’t change your fluids on a regular basis. To find out how often you need to change your fluids, consult your owner’s handbook; however , you can also learn how to diagnose and repair problems on your own.

What Does Transmission Fluid Do?

Your transmission fluid deteriorates more quickly if you drive your automobile aggressively—stop-and-go city traffic, towing a boat or other heavy goods on trailers, or transporting heavy loads. The transmission temperature rises when you’re hard on your car, putting a strain on the transmission and its fluids.

The hotter the transmission fluid, the more miles you drive, which discolors and burns as it depletes. If it reaches a level at which it begins to burn, your transmission may be damaged or fail. A few hundred dollars for a transmission flush may save you thousands of dollars in repair costs if your car’s transmission oil has been consumed.

Ford 7.3L Powerstroke Specifications

The 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine has a highly efficient hydraulic electronic unit injector (HEUI) injection system that produces fuel pressure directly in the injector body rather than requiring a conventional injector pump. In place of an injection pump, the 7.3L Power Stroke engine has a high-pressure oil pump (HPOP) and a low-pressure lift pump. The 7.3L Power Stroke engine needs a high-pressure oil pump (HPOP) and a low-pressure lift pump instead of an injection pump to create pressures up to 21,000 psi. The transition from mechanical injection to HEUI was expected to result in improved performance, lower emissions, and better fuel efficiency as a result of improved fuel atomization and more fine control over induction events.

The Ford F-Series International powered F-Series trucks’ popularity is evident in its manufacturing statistics, which greatly exceeded those of any competing manufacturer’s diesel sales. By 1999, dealerships had sold 1 million Power Stroke vehicles with a diesel engine. Following the launch of the Super Duty platform, demand for the 7.3L Power Stroke climbed dramatically following its introduction in 2002. The 7.3L Power Stroke has been recognized as one of the most popular engines available in a truck, owing to its reputation for dependability and longevity.

The 7.3L diesel engine was phased out during the 2003 model year because of a growing demand for fuel efficiency and significantly lower emissions. The new, smaller 6.0L Power Stroke was introduced alongside the old, larger 7.3L PowerStroke for the 2003 MY. By 2004, the 6.0L Power Stroke had entirely replaced the 7.3L diesel engine .

7.3L Powerstroke Transmission Options

• The ZF S5-47 was a 5 speed manual gearbox that was fitted to the Nissan Cefiro, March/Sierra, Pulsar NX and Renga models. It is no longer available.
• The diesel E4OD 4-speed automatic transmission was made available from 1994 to 1998.
• The SKF S6-650 6 gear automatic transmission is for the 1999 to 2003 model years.
• Ford 4R110 four-speed automatic gearbox – available beginning in 1999 and continuing through 2003.

What type of transmission fluid does Ford 7.3 take?

What is the nature of Ford’s gearbox transmission? What sort of transmission fluid does a Ford utilize? The transmission fluid that has been recommended by Toyota, GM, and Ford is Mercon V. For antique gearbox applications, Chrysler recommends ATF+4 fluids.

Is it possible to clean the transmission fluid of diesel injectors? In diesel fuel, there is a type of fluid known as automatic transmission fluid. Has anyone heard of adding a quart of ATF to their diesel fuel to clean the injectors? Every 1000 hours, a quart in 50 gallons. The fuel system may be cleaned with detergents in ATF.

7.3L Manual Transmission Fluid:

• Specs: ZF S5 5-speed / ZF S6 6-speed
• Capacity – Quarts: 3.4 quarts / 5.8 quarts

7.3L Auto Transmission Fluid:

• Specs: E40D 4×2 / E40D 4×4 / 4R100
• Capacity – Quarts: 15.9 quarts / 16.4 quarts / 17.1-17.7 quarts

When do you need to change the Ford 7.3L Transmission Fluid?

Fluid is low

This is a no-brainer. Low fluid levels might be a sign that your fluid needs to be replaced. Your transmission shouldn’t leak easily, but it can if a leak develops over time. If your transmission fluid is insufficient, it’s time to drain the remnants and give it another go.

Fluid leaks

This is another issue that goes hand in hand with low fluid. You’re more likely to discover a leak than to crawl underneath the hood and check the levels, but it’s typical. Leaks aren’t enjoyable, whether under your vehicle or anywhere else. They’re an indication of a problem. The issue for your automobile might be a leaking transmission.

Dark colored fluid

Let’s take a look at where we started. The initial color of automatic transmission fluid is generally pink or red, which looks fantastic. If it becomes soiled, discolored, or blackened, however, Houston has a transmission fluid issue.

Performance problems

If you’ve forgotten how to drive a stick shift, have you tried your car’s automatic transmission? Is it as straightforward as it was when you attempted to drive a stick shift, given that it can’t be that difficult? That isn’t a good sign. If your transmission is making strange noises or has difficulties changing gears, there may be an issue with your transmission fluid.

How to Check Transmission Fluids on Ford 7.3L

• Allow the transmission fluid to warm up while leaving the engine running. Park the car on a level surface with the parking brake on. Make sure your gearbox is in “P” – Park before you go. Allow it to run until it stops by itself, then turn it off and let it cool down naturally.
• Remove the dipstick and clean it with a clean, lint-free cloth. Insert the dipstick fully and remove it to check the fluid level.
• When the transmission fluid is heated, it expands (after around 20-30 minutes of driving). When the car isn’t being driven, the level should be between the “HOT” markings. When the vehicle is cold, the level will be close to one of the sides of the “COOL” markings.
• Check for transmission problems by checking the fluid condition: a filthy substance with a burnt odor is an indication of transmission difficulties. Normally, transmission fluid should be transparent and colorless. The new transmission fluid in most vehicles is red, as seen in the photo above. It becomes brownish with age, as seen in the photograph below.
• You can see how synthetic transmission fluid looks after two years of use; it’s still clear and transparent. If the fluid appears black or cloudy, with a burned odor, it should be changed (refer to Owners Manual). Some manufacturers suggest changing it every 30,000 to 50,000 miles, while others say that it never needs to be replaced (see Owners Manual)

If the transmission fluid is low, you can fill it up. Make sure not to overfill your truck’s transmission if this happens. Only use the specified type of transmission fluid; incorrect fluids can be harmful to your automobile’s transmission.

How to Fill the Transmission Fluid on a Ford 7.3L

7.3 Powerstroke: Automatic Transmission

Set the parking brake and put the gearbox in neutral before starting the engine. Allow at least two minutes for your truck to run.

Remove the hood, then grasp the transmission dipstick and pull it out of its tube. The transmission dipstick is usually on the passenger side in the engine compartment, behind the hood.

Wipe the dipstick with the rag and reinsert it into the tube. Insert the dipstick completely into the tube, then pull it out again. Examine where the transmission fluid has moistened the end of the dipstick (if at all).

Insert the end of the transmission funnel into the tube. Add half a quart of transmission fluid to the tube. Allow for draining down of the tube after step 3, then repeat step 3 again. Repeat as needed until the dipstick is continuously immersed in transmission fluid up to and including hole number three.

After that, while pressing down on the brake pedal, use your other foot to move the gear selector up and down in each gear of the transmission. Neutral should be restored.

Continue on to step 5 until the transmission fluid reaches the middle mark on the dipstick.

Park the vehicle on a level surface and drive it for 15 minutes. After that, check the transmission fluid level on the dipstick. Continue with 3 and 4 as needed until the transmission fluid reaches or just exceeds the “Do Not Add” line on the dipstick.

7.3 Powerstroke: Manual Transmission

Sidle under the truck.

Locate the bushing (or, on some vehicles, the check/fill plug) on the transmission’s side. Look for the upper plug on the transmission case of a four-speed vehicle (passenger side), or for the lower plug on a five-speed vehicle (driver’s side). Wipe any mud or foreign debris off both of them.

Remove the check/fill plug using a wrench or breaker bar. (If fluid leaks out while you’re removing the plug, replace it; the transmission is full.)

Insert the pinkie finger of your hand into the hole from which the plug was removed. Remove your finger from the hole and inspect it. (If fluid is on the tip of your finger, replace the plug; the transmission is full.)

Pump gear oil into the transmission by inserting the end of the hand pump into the hole and pumping. 2. If the check/fill plug is removed, inspect the screen for flaws or holes. While watching for any gaps, slowly pump the cylinder. Remove both the pump and check/fill plug as soon as fluid begins to ooze out of the hole.

Using a rag, wipe any gear oil that has leaked from the transmission.

What are the symptoms related to transmission fluid issues?

Can I drive with a transmission fluid problem?

It is not advised to drive a car that has passed the manufacturer’s recommended service interval. The automobile can be driven safely, but neglecting maintenance may result in much greater costs in the long run. If you’ve gone past the scheduled maintenance mileage, get your vehicle in for servicing as soon as possible.

If the car has any transmission problems that create drivability concerns or exhibit any of the symptoms listed here, it should be towed to a repair shop for analysis.

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Changing ATF: 7.3L PowerStroke Engine and 4R100 Automatic Transmission.

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Additional pointer for anyone doing this for the first time: A bit of fluid might come out of the bypass banjo a few seconds after the truck is started and/or when switching through the gears. Dont just assume the bypass is active. Let it run for a few seconds and see if it stops. I turned off the truck before I realised it would stop and wasted the 7 quarts driving around getting it "Back" up to temp. My 2c and a wasted case of mobile 1..  

Here's another tip: Be ready for about a pint of fluid to come at your head when you pull the filter loose.  

I only had a few drops come out when I pulled the filter.  

If you remove the pan for the filter change, don't forget to remove, clean, and reinstall the MAGNET ! If you replace your Magnefine, don't forget it has a DIRECTIONAL FLOW . :thumbsup:  

Debating with a friend... Why is it a BETTER idea to drain from cooler line, instead of draining pan, refill, run engine, drain pan, refill?  

Because you'll get more of the old fluid out by using this procedure than draining and filling the pan several times.  

My buddy thought the same amount would be recycled through by just continuous changing of the "pan" fluid. I thought you needed to drain through the cooler line as more of a "bleed" so all the air was removed.  

When you do a partial change the old and new fluids mix. Next time you do a partial change you mix again. It will take many partial changes to change all of the fluid. There is no air that needs bleeding when changing the trans fluid. The trans will self bleed any air in the first few seconds after the engine starts.  

Hey Mark and Smokey, what is the advantage to switching to Mercon V instead of Mercon III? My truck has 185,000+ on the original tranny and really don't want to cause any problems as it shifts the same as it did when new. I change the fluid, internal filter, and the spin-on filter in the cooler return line every 30,000 miles and the pan is always very clean. I have a converter drain plug and have been using Napa filters and Valvoline fluid at every service. As always, thanks in advance!:beerchug:  

The first advantage is the MERCON V exists, there never has been a fluid called MERCON III. There has been MERCON, MERCON V, MERCON SP, and now MERCON LV. Never was there a MERCON III. The 4R100 was designed using MERCON. In 2006 Ford stopped licensing MERCON and changed MERCON V to be compatible with the 4R100. There is no great benefit or problem switching from MERCON to MERCON V in a 4R100.  

changed the fluid and filter on my 03 f350 used the mercon v fluid. Cant keep trany cool iv flushed radiator cooler and external cooler and blew them both out.. dosent matter if im loaded or empty fluid will be steaming in 20 minutes.. Any ideas???  

Thanks Mark for your writeup. I changed mine last night and it went pretty well. I ended up putting the hose on the exit from the trans cooler up under the radiator on the same side and the transmission fluid lines. I put in a small link of 3/8" OD copper pipe to stick in the rubber hose coming from the cooler. The other end was hooked to some 3/8" ID Tygon Tubing. There was a lot of junk in the way on my Excursion next to the transmission on the side where the lines were located so I gave up hooking the hose there. I also removed the pan and did not find anything at all there accept a little steel stuck to the magnet. There was no aluminum or clutch debris. This helped give me confidence that changing the fluid might fix the torque converter buzz on lockup problem. I think I screwed up and purged the fluid after adding the last 6 quarts when I should have stopped there. I drained the pan then added 7 quarts. I pumped that out and added 6 more quarts and purged that. I added the last 6 and purged that out but I should have stopped there and checked the fluid level. I ended up with about 7 gallons of waste since I purged too many times. I had to add another 6 quarts after the last purge to get it back on the dip stick. My dip stick is really hard to read especially after having just added fluid. The residue in the tube coats the dip stick making you think it is full when it is not. If you look at both side of the dip stick you can get some idea of what it is doing. Usually only one side is fully coated with oil. This thing only had 94k on it and the fluid was shot. This was a soccer mom vehicle that saw alot of daily driving but not much in the way of pulling. I am pretty sure it was the original factory fill of fluid that came out. Now imagine a powerstroke pulling heavy loads and putting out tons of torque. Just imagine how much quicker the fluid is going to degrade when the truck is actually being used for what it was designed for. Perry  

I have tried the procedure twice now, both times with the tranny fluid "hot", and it continues to purge from the bypass. I have stopped both times after a gallon came out of the bypass and only retrieved approx. a quart from the cooler return line. Does this denote a problem with the bypass?  

awise544 said: Does this denote a problem with the bypass? Click to expand...

Probably not. It probably denotes a restriction in the cooler lines and/or the coolers themselves.  

Thanks for the input. I'll start with the flow test and go from there.  

It's going to fail the flow test. If fluid sprays out of the trans when you run the test it fails, and you already have that. Check the cooler lines for any signs of damage, along with the cooler.  

Visual check of lines and cooler show no damage. I have a compressor that I can regulate the output on and can put 10PSI on the cooler lines and cooler if that is suggested. As you stated Mark, if fails flow test on the return line by purging out of the bypass valve. Is it OK to leave the return line connected, then disconnect the "hot" line to the cooler to check flow when fluid is @ operating temp. Wouldn't this prove that if there is correct flow, the cooler is restricted or if there is no flow, the bypass valve is always open? Or once I disconnected the "hot" line, would it be normal for the bypass valve to open? I appreciate the suggestions and help on this and didn't intend to become a nuisance!  

Worked perfect Changed my filter and fluid over the weekend and everything worked just like you said!!  

I had some long tubing left over from what I can not remember ,, but it was long enough to go from the return line that one un hooks, and the other end in the bucket just below the drivers door. Start the engine and wait... bucket starts to fill and then there is that large air pocket... stop , fill with more transmission fluid and repeat.. there is another air pocket along with a change in color after moving through P, R, D, 2, 1. Thanks again for the step by steps...  

:thumbsup:thanks for the instructions. Did this yesterday afternoon, and had no problems. Used almost 21 qts of Mobil 1, guess the 6.0 cooler may take a bit more fluid. Next up grade will be bypass filters for the cooling system, and the Tranny.  

Alaskapsdvan said: Come Monday-Tuesday I will be using it to change the trans fluid in the crown vic... Click to expand...

Noob need rumors confirmed or denied.....Ok i've heard from different sources conflicting advice on changing the tranny fluid....My late model 99 f350 SRW 205K is truely awesome and love it...i've noticed that the tanny will not do anything when i put it in gear after cranking it.... i will let it sit for a couple seconds and it will start to move on it's own and good to go when it does....now with that in mind i have heard that flushing the tranny is bad if it was never done before.....on the other hand i was told to do it to help this issue, that it could be a built tranny and it need to be changed....I have no previous knowledge of the trucks history.....but when it shifts it bangs the gears(sticky residue on the gauge cluster tells me a programmer was once on it).....Thanks a bunch in advance!!  

ZoomZX10R said: ...now with that in mind i have heard that flushing the tranny is bad if it was never done before..... Click to expand...

changed the tranny oil today, hardest part was coughing up $5.49 a quart. there was no bypass on my 96 and a 3/8's id clear tubing worked great. the 14 year old fluid (cause they pulled the tranny in 97) looked a dark brownish burgundy color. the new fluid looked like pink lemonade coming down the clear tubing.  

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Complete 7.3L Powerstroke Maintenance Guide & Service Schedule

Written by Kamil

January 7th, 2020

7.3L Powerstroke Maintenance Schedule (1994-2003 Ford Superduty Trucks)

1994.5-2003 Ford Superduty 7.3L Diesel Maintenance Guide

The 7.3L Powerstroke is well-known for being reliable and long-lasting. Even under severe abuse these trucks last a long time. That doesn’t give you an excuse to neglect your truck though! By regularly servicing your 7.3, you can increase your 7.3s useful life. A properly maintained truck will also perform and drive better. What exactly is proper 7.3l Powerstroke maintenance though? Our 7.3l Powerstroke Maintenance Guide makes servicing your truck easy! I’ll give you the proper service schedule to follow as well as the best filters, oil, and fluids to use. I’ll even give you the fluid capacities so you’ll know how much of every different fluid you need.

7.3L Powerstroke Maintenance Varies By Model Year

Maintenance procedures and parts are slightly different depending on your specific model year 7.3L Powerstroke. Take a look at the different charts below and follow the one that applies to your specific model year.

7.3L Powerstroke Maintenance Schedule : Normal Operating Conditions

7.3l powerstroke maintenance schedule : severe operating conditions, 7.3l powerstroke oem maintenance parts, filters, & fluids.

If you want to keep your 7.3L Powerstroke running well, you should use products that meet or exceed OEM standards. At Diesel Resource, we’re big believers in using OEM maintenance parts. That means using Motorcraft or Ford parts. Aftermarket filters and fluids often don’t fit properly, don’t come with the needed gaskets, or don’t maintain the quality of OEM products. Here’s a comprehensive chart of all the fluids, filters, and parts you will need to maintain your 7.3L Powerstroke.

Learn More about the 7.3L Powerstroke

• 7.3L Powerstroke Specifications
• 7.3L Powerstroke Fluid specifications and Capacities
• Best 7.3L Powerstroke Performance Upgrades
• Common 7.3L Powerstroke Problems

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ABOUT Kamil

Founder of Diesel Resource and a complete diesel head. Has a little bit of problem buying too many trucks. Learn more about him by checking out his truck.

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Products for every engine, the best money-back guarantee in the industry, plus free shipping, 1999-2003 7.3l fluid capacities, fluid capacity.

• Fluid Type Application Fluid Capacity Service Interval Fluid Spec Notes

Recommend: Blue Diamond PAO Synthetic 5W-40 Blue Diamond PAO Synthetic 10W-30 Green Diamond Synthetic 5W-40 Green Diamond Synthetic 10W-30

Above 20°F ……….15W-40 Above -0°F ……….10W-30 Above -20°F ……….5W-40

Recommend: Use  Diesel Extreme  every 6,000 miles and  Everyday Diesel Treatment  with every fill up. For additional lubricity,  LX4 Lubricity Extreme  may be used. In freezing temperatures, switch from Everyday Diesel Treatment to  Diesel Winter Anti-Gel  for protection against fuel gelling.

BLUE DIAMOND ATF+4/DEXRON III/MERCON V (+4/D3/M5)

Fill to line on reservoir.

Recommended:  BLUE DIAMOND SEVERE DUTY GEAR OIL 75W-90 S9

Recommended:  BLUE DIAMOND SEVERE DUTY GEAR OIL 85W-140 S14

Your vehicle’s rear axle(s) may be filled with a synthetic lubricant that may required a lubricant change. Axle lubricant quantities should not need to be checked unless a leak is suspected, service is required or the axle assembly has been submerged in water. The axle lubricant should be changed any time the rear axle has been submerged in water. Add 8 oz. of Additive Friction Modifier C8AZ-19B546-A, FORD Specification: (EST-M2C118-A), for complete refill of Traction-Lok axles.

DO NOT use FORD Extended Life Engine Coolant (orange color). Includes .5 qt. for coolant reserve tank.

Follow the Manufacturer’s Instructions for the mixture ratio.

• Fluid Type Air Cond Refrigerant Application N/A Fluid Capacity 2.38 LBS Service Interval Fluid Spec R-134a Notes

Oil Change Interval & Capacity

What is the oil change interval for a 7.3l powerstroke.

You should change the engine oil and filter in your 7.3L Powerstroke once every 5,000 miles at minimum — more often if you frequently use it for heavy-duty hauling. 

Engine oil cools, protects and lubricates your engine for maximum performance, so it’s critical to regularly change the oil for a heavy-duty engine like the 7.3L Powerstroke. If your oil suffers contaminant buildup or the level gets too low, the engine will deliver poor performance and may even break down.

How Much Oil and Fluid Do You Need in Your 7.3L Powerstroke?

The 7.3 Powerstroke’s fuel capacity varies based on configuration, with some models holding nearly 40 gallons of diesel. As for engine oil and other fluids, there are valuable rules of thumb for maintaining the proper levels in your Powerstroke engine, but it’s always essential to perform a physical check before filling to ensure you have what you need. 

Some important stats for 7.3 fluid capacity include: 

• Engine oil:  15 quarts
• Transfer case:  2.0 quarts
• Coolant: 32.75  quarts

Best Oil for the 7.3L Powerstroke

What is the best oil for the 7.3l powerstroke.

Ford heavy-duty trucks with 7.3L Powerstroke engines often have to perform in extreme hot and cold as well as under heavy stress. That’s why it’s key to select a high-quality motor oil that will rise to the challenge by reducing engine wear and boosting fuel economy. We recommend the reliability of synthetic oils designed for maximum performance.

There are several factors you should consider when choosing the best oil for your 7.3 Powerstroke:

• Viscosity:  It’s usually best to choose 10W-30 viscosity rating oils for normal, lighter-duty operation. If you’re taking your truck on rough terrain, routinely hauling heavy loads or anticipating a harsh winter, an oil in the 5W-40 or 15W-40 range might be more appropriate for your specific needs. 
• Protection:  It’s key to select an oil designed specifically to protect diesel engines and compatible with the Ford guidelines laid out in your owner’s manual.
• Reliability:  Some oils contain additives designed to block oil oxidation and sludge formation, which can help your truck run more efficiently and sustain its performance.

Common Symptoms

Though the 7.3’s straightforward build gives it excellent longevity with the proper care, it can develop issues. Watch for these red flags that you might be experiencing one of the common problems with the 7.3 Powerstroke: 

• Black smoke:  Several issues can  cause your 7.3 to emit black smoke , including a dirty air filter, incorrect fuel spray pattern or stiction in the turbo. 
• Check engine light:  Injector or turbo issues can come from debris or stiction buildup over time and cause a  check engine light warning . 
• Difficult cold start:  Stiction in injectors, low fuel quality and glow plug issues can all impact the  cold start on your truck . 
• Fuel filter plugged:  Bacteria in your tank can cause a buildup of scummy  residue in your fuel filter , affecting fuel flow. 
• Running rough:  Stiction or injector failure can cause your truck to  bounce or shake while idling . 
• White smoke:  A transmission leak or low fuel quality can cause  excessive white smoke  to come out of your tailpipe. 
• Difficult hot start:  A leak in your fuel system or  poor quality fuel can cause a hot start issue  with your 7.3 Powerstroke engine. 
• Excessive crankcase pressure:   Excessive pressure in your crankcase  can stem from substances like fuel, air or moisture forcing their way through the rings. 

DIY Service Video Series

How-to change a fuel filter on a f-350 7.3 powerstroke.

Choose Hot Shot’s Secret Oils and Additives

If you’re searching for the best oil for your 7.3 Powerstroke diesel engine, you’re in the right place. The team at Hot Shot’s Secret is a one-stop source for  premium performance oil solutions  designed to maximize the output of your engine and protect its most vital parts, plus a variety of additives that eliminate stiction, boost performance and improve your engine’s longevity. 

Hot Shot’s Secret also provides a  wide variety of fuel additives  designed to optimize diesel engine performance. These revolutionary products will increase lubricity, improve cold-weather function and keep your engine running clean. They can even help you attain greater fuel efficiency and smoother starting and acceleration.

Ready to shop or have a question? Browse our  selection of diesel performance boosters  or  contact our team online  to learn more about Hot Shot’s Secret solutions for the 7.3 Powerstroke.

The Original Stiction Eliminator

Diesel Extreme

Everyday Diesel Treatment

EDT+ Winter Defense

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Driving Hints

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Roadside Emergencies

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Customer Assistance

• Getting the Services You Need
• In California (U.S. Only)
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• Getting Assistance Outside the U.S. and Canada
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• Reporting Safety Defects (U.S. Only)
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• Fuse Specification Chart
• Changing a Fuse

Maintenance

• Opening and Closing the Hood
• Under Hood Overview
• Engine Oil Dipstick
• Engine Oil Check
• Oil Change Indicator Reset
• Engine Coolant Check
• Automatic Transmission Fluid Check
• Brake Fluid Check
• Power Steering Fluid Check
• Washer Fluid Check
• Fuel Filter
• Changing the 12V Battery
• Checking the Wiper Blades
• Changing the Wiper Blades
• Adjusting the Headlamps
• Removing a Headlamp
• Changing a Bulb
• Bulb Specification Chart
• Changing the Engine Air Filter

Vehicle Care

• Cleaning Products
• Cleaning the Exterior
• Cleaning the Engine
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• Cleaning the Interior
• Cleaning the Instrument Panel and Instrument Cluster Lens
• Cleaning Leather Seats
• Repairing Minor Paint Damage
• Cleaning the Alloy Wheels
• Vehicle Storage

Wheels and Tires

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• Tire Pressure Monitoring System
• Changing a Road Wheel
• Technical Specifications

Capacities and Specifications

• Engine Specifications - 5.4L V8
• Engine Specifications - 6.8L
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• Vehicle Identification Number
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Capacities and Specifications - 5.4L V8

• Capacities and Specifications - 6.8L

Audio System

• Audio Unit - Vehicles With: AM/FM
• Audio Unit - Vehicles With: AM/FM/CD/SYNC
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• Using SYNC™ With Your Media Player
• SYNC™ Troubleshooting
• Accessories
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Scheduled Maintenance

• General Maintenance Information
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• Special Operating Conditions Scheduled Maintenance
• Scheduled Maintenance Record
• End User License Agreement

Capacities and Specifications - Capacities and Specifications - 5.4L V8

• Component damage which is not covered by the vehicle warranty.
• Longer engine cranking periods.
• Increased emission levels.
• Reduced engine performance.
• Reduced fuel economy.
• Degraded brake performance.

Owner's Manual Feedback

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2016 E-Series Owner's Manual

Transmission Fluid Level Check 2000 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3L V8 Turbo Diesel

Ford excursion model years - 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005.

1. Getting Started - Prepare for the transmission fluid level check

2. Open the Hood - How to pop the hood and prop it open

3. Remove Transmission Fluid Cap / Dipstick - Access point for transmission fluid

4. Transmission Fluid Check Level - Read dipstick or look at check plug hole to determine transmission fluid level

5. Add Transmission Fluid - Determine correct fluid type and add fluid

6. Replace Transmission Fluid Cap/Dipstick - Put the dipstick / cap back in place

7. More Info. - Additional information on checking transmission fluid levels

Hans Angermeier is an ASE certified Maintenance and Light Repair Technician and has produced over 100,000 videos showing drivers how to fix things on their cars. He has broad expertise on basic repair procedures covering the majority of cars on the road. Over the past 10 years, Hans has been focused on building CarCareKiosk, which is visited by millions of drivers each month.

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The engine in your 2000 Ford Excursion should be running when you perform a transmission fluid level check, otherwise it will be inaccurate. The video above shows where the transmission fluid dipstick or the transmission fluid check plug is located in your Excursion and how to check the transmission fluid level. Your Excursion will have either a transmission dipstick or a check or fill plug to perform a transmission fluid check. The transmission dipstick will typically be in the engine bay or on top or even the side of your Excursion transmission. The transmission check plug will typically be on the bottom or the side of the transmission and may also be next to the axle. If the transmission fluid level in your Excursion is low, you need to add transmission fluid through the dipstick tube or the check plug hole. When adding transmission fluid to your Excursion, be sure to add it slowly as it will fill up quickly and is difficult to remove excess fluid if you overfill.

If you are having problems with the transmission in your Excursion, such as clunky shifting or hesitation, check the fluid level first - it is amazing how many drivers pay thousands of dollars for transmission work when a half quart of transmission fluid would have fixed the problem.

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Learn where your air filter is located and how to determine if it needs to be changed.

Properly inflated tires is the easiest way to improve fuel economy. The right tire pressure is NOT on the side of your tire btw

Learn how to diagnose and fix minor oil leaks in your car

There's no reason to check the washer fluid level without adding some - see how to do it here!

We have a massive and growing video library, but we don't have everything...yet.

Car companies often use the same engines in different cars. They also slightly alter the styling and sell the same car by two different names (amongst other tricks to help offset development costs).

Our system selects the most applicable video for your car based, in part, on these characteristics. The video displayed may not look exactly like your car, but may be relevant enough for you to get a good idea how to do it.

• Fuel Consumption
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Recommended Transmission Oil for the Ford Excursion. How Much Do You Need?

The excursion generations.

Other Ford models

• Fuel Consumption of the Ford Excursion
• Ford Excursion Emissions
• Ford Excursion Engine Displacement
• Ford Excursion Engine Torque
• How Much HP and kW Does Ford Excursion Have?
• Ford Excursion Towing Capacity
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• Battery for the Ford
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2000 Ford Excursion 7.3 TD (253 Hp) Automatic

• 7.3 TD (253 Hp) Automatic
• 7.3 TD (253 Hp) 4WD Automatic
• 7.3 TD (253 Hp) 4WD
• 6.8 (314 Hp) Automatic
• 6.8 (314 Hp) 4WD Automatic
• 6.0 TD (329 Hp) Automatic
• 6.0 TD (329 Hp) 4WD Automatic
• 5.4 L (258 Hp) Automatic
• 5.4 (263 Hp) Automatic
• 5.4 (263 Hp) 4WD Automatic
• 5.4 (258 Hp) 4WD Automatic