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As it happened: pogacar cracks on the col de la loze as gall survives to win the stage.

AG2R rider holds off Simon Yates as Vingegaard extends GC lead to 7:35

COURCHEVEL FRANCE JULY 19 LR Marc Soler of Spain and Tadej Pogacar of Slovenia and UAE Team Emirates White Best Young Rider Jersey cross the finish line during the stage seventeen of the 110th Tour de France 2023 a 1657km at stage from SaintGervais MontBlanc to Courchevel UCIWT on July 19 2023 in Courchevel France Photo by Michael SteeleGetty Images

Tour de France - Everything you need to know Vingegaard removes all doubt, crushes Pogacar in stage 16 time trial Tour de France stage 17 preview How to watch the 2023 Tour de France – live streaming

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The top 10 on GC after stage 17

100km to go

115km to go, 120km to go, 130km to go, 135km to go, 140km to go, 152km to go, 160km to go.

Bonjour and welcome to the Cyclingnews live coverage of stage 17 of the 2023 Tour de France.

The morning storms have passed and the sun is out in Saint-Gervais as the riders sign on. 

After the superb performances and big time differences of the time trial, we are set for another dramatic day of racing in the high Alps. 

Can Tadej Pogacar somehow pull back any of the 1:38 he lost to Jonas Vingegaard? We'll find out on the mighty Col de la Loze later today.  

Cyclingnews journalists Barry Ryan, Alasdair Fotheringham and Sophie Smith are in France and will again gather all the biggest news, interviews and information.

The global Cyclingnews team will produce the best stage reports, live coverage and breaking news.

The profile of stage 17

The 165.7km stage includes three early climbs but he Col de la Loze will be decisive today. 

Alasdair Fotheringham has written the special Cyclingnews stage preview, recalling that when it was announced that the 2020 Tour de France route would include a new monster Alpine climb called the  Col de la Loze , such was its difficulty that the stage on which it featured was instantly labelled the toughest of the entire race.   

L'Equipe have named the Col de la Loze as the hardest climb in France. 

The sheer length of the Loze, 28 kilometres at 6.5%, with the final five kilometres never less than 9%, is daunting . 

The cycle path that leads to the Loze's summit via a cruelly undulating finale, includes a ramp of 24% some two kilometres from the top. Then there was the Loze's peaking out at 2,304 metres above sea level.

That altitude was more than enough to become an important consideration, in itself - and perhaps help a Colombian like Miguel Angel López take the maiden win on the climb in the autumn of 2020.

All of the above remains true for this year's ascent of the Loze. This time round, there's more to the stage itself as well: lots more.

Tthe key question now is: can  Tadej Pogačar  use such difficult terrain to bounce back after Tuesday's stinging TT defeat or will  Jonas Vingegaard  defend his lead of nearly two minutes and take another huge step towards winning the Tour again?

Pogačar remained notably upbeat despite such a major setback. If he started the Tour with the attitude that he has nothing to lose and that Vingegaard was the favourite, that is arguably even more the case at this point in the race. 

COVID-19 has not wreaked havoc amongst UAE like it did last year and Adam Yates, now third overall, represents a huge addition to their climbing firepower compared to 2022.

May the best rider win.

Pogacar is on the sign-on stage now, again wearing the best young rider's white jersey.

He is smiling and seems relaxed. 

Tadej Pogacar

Of course stage 17 is far more than just the Vingegaard-Pogacar battle.

There is also the fight for the polka-dot mountains jersey, with Ciccone trying to fight off Neilson Powless and others. 

There's also the fight for the stage victory from a breakaway. Surely Thibaut Pinot and others will try to win today.  

Jumbo-Visma are last on the sign-on stage after Vingegaard won the TT. 

Today they also ride in yellow helmets after their collective performance earned them leadership of the team classification.

The team won the stage with Vingegaard, Wout Van Aert was third and Sepp Kuss was 14th.

They now lead Ineos by 9:42 in the team classification.  

The riders are now lining up for the start of the 165.7km stage. 

They face a 3.5km neutralised ride out of Saint-Gervais and then the flag will drop. 

If you want to catch-up on all the action from the stage 16 time trial, click our full report below. Check out the photo gallery and full results. 

Tour de France: Vingegaard removes all doubt, crushes Pogacar in stage 16 time trial

Jumbo-Visma's Danish rider Jonas Vingegaard wearing the overall leader's yellow jersey cycles to the finish line during the 16th stage of the 110th edition of the Tour de France cycling race, 22 km individual time trial between Passy and Combloux, in the French Alps, on July 18, 2023. (Photo by Thomas SAMSON / AFP)

We're one minute from the start of the stage! 

10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.... 

C'est parti!

There is real tension in the peloton as riders roll along and prepare for the racing to explode.

Start Line Selfie by @adrienpetit62 👍 #TDF2023 pic.twitter.com/ncZBIYzsFn July 19, 2023

Painfully for everyone, the neutralised sector is uphill. 

The only non-starter is Alexis Renard of Cofidis. He crashed at the start of the time trial and fractured his elbow.

Stage 17 is considered the queen stage of the 2023 Tour de France, the hardest day of racing. 

It has the highest stage elevation and the highest peak with Col de la Loze at 2304 metres above sea level. 

The first rider to summit will be awarded the prestigious Souvenir Henri Desgrange prize. There are also 8,5, 2 bonus seconds up for grabs, so everything to race for.  

500m to the depart reel! 

Boom! Prudhomme waves the flag and they're off! 

French champion Valentin Madouas is the first attacker of the day, along with Magnus Cort of EF.

More riders are trying to surge across to the two. 

The road rises to Megeve and so is a perfect launch pad for attacks.

The peloton is back together. For now...

This was Madouas' first attack and shows the feeling in the race today.

🇫🇷 The race is underway and the first attacker is the French national champion @MadouasValentin!🇫🇷 La course est lancée et le premier attaquant du jour est le champion de France @MadouasValentin !#TDF2023 pic.twitter.com/Yfs1COOrdi July 19, 2023

We expect the break to form on the first real climb of the day, the Col de la Saisies, that peaks after 28km of racing.

There are no attacks off the front but there are splits in the peloton.

Race radio confirms that 30 riders have been distanced.

Adam Yates is in the second group, as more attacks go off the front. 

The 30 chasers catch the peloton but there are 5 riders up the road, including Powless and Ciccone, as they race  for the KOM points. 

Yates had several teammates as hre chased back on, Jai Hindley was also forced to make an effort to get back on.

The split  in the peloton has allowed helped the attackers go away, the gap is up to 40 seconds. 

The five attackers are: Neilson Powless, Giulio Ciccone, Luka Mezgec, Mads Pedersen and Jonas Gregaard of Uno-X.

Soudal-QuickStep are leading the chase after missing the move.

The Col de la Saisies begins. It is 13km long and so will surely change the race. 

Indeed, Julian Alaphilippe leads a trio that is trying to cross to the attack.

Crash! 

Pogacar was forced to stop and get going again. 

He is in a chase group. 

Pogacar is back in the peloton but that was an early scare. 

Pogacar semed to touch wheels and go down, he was close to Vingegaard and so almost took him down too.  

It's 10km to the summit of the Col de la Saisies but the sprinters are already suffering and being dropped.

Philipsen is dropped, even Mikel Landa and Tom Pidcock. 

There are riders spread over a kilometre of the road.

Pidcock perhaps crashed with Pogacar. His number is ripped. on his right side.

The counter-attacks have joined the leading five. There are 18 riders up front, creating a strong move. 

Even Simon Yates is in there and he's 8th overall. 

Jumbo are leading the peloton to try to keep things under control. 

#TDF2023 It's a tasty start! 💥@SimonYatess has managed to slip into a group off the front with @chrisharper94 💪 But the peloton aren't happy 👀 pic.twitter.com/tjaGQECitM July 19, 2023

Ciccone is leading the attack but the gap is only 20 seconds.

We can see Pogacar in the peloton. He does not seem hurt after his tumble but he has a cut on his right leg, with some blood running down his lower leg. 

Dylan van Baarle is leading the chase for  Jumbo and he sweeps up Powless, who dropped out of the attack. 

The American wore the polka-dot jersey for much of the first two weeks but appears to be paying for his efforts in the high mountains. 

Latour is also spat out of the attack due to the high speed. 

However Jumbo refuse to let it go  and keep the gap at 25 seconds.

The gap is at 20 seconds and so Guillaume Martin (Cofidis) tries to jump across to the attack.

With 2km to climb to the summit of the Col de la Saisies, Jumbo have upped the pace. in pursuit of the break. 

Tiesj Benoot is on the front and his effort has split the peloton.

However Benoot's effort has hurt his own teammate Wout Van Aert. 

But it has hurt UAE and other teams.

Carlos Rodriguez is also struggling and so Ineos are trying to pace back to the Vingergaard group. 

Up front, Ciccone kicks away to take maximum KOM point.  

The peloton is 35 seconds behind them as they start the descent. 

The riders have climbed the Col de la Saisies but there are three more major climbs to come, including the mighty Col de la Loze. 

They're racing down the descent too, with Alaphilippe diving through the hairpins.

Alaphilippe is trying to drag a smaller group away. 

Yet Jumbo refuse to ease up and so the yellow jersey group is at just 22 seconds.

The peloton is at 50 seconds, including David Gaudu.   

Alaphilippe, Neilands and Ciccone are working together but the yellow jersey group  is also flat out in pursuit. 

Cricket has Bazball, a new, more aggressive way of playing, cycling has FullGas racing like we're seeing now.  

This fast descent is 18km long. The riders hit the  intermediate sprint point in Beaufort and then start the 19.8km Cormet de Roselend climb.  

Riders are trying to jump from the big break to the Alaphilippe move as Jumbo still lead the chase. 

We have a race within a race, within a race. 

The peloton has reformed with Gaudu back on but we could soon see gruppo compatto and as totally new race on the Cormet de Roselend climb.  

Julian Alaphilippe is first at the intermediate sprint in Beaufort.

The speed has been so high and the racing so close, that riders are unable to get fresh bidonds from their team cars. 

Mattias Skjelmose of Lidl waves a bidon to the TV camera but his car is stuck behind. He'll have to take a bidon from the drink motor bike.

The front group covered 42km in the first hour of racing and that includes a major climb! 

FullGas racing.

Much of the big early attack has almost been caught as the Cormet de Roseland  starts in earnest. 

Alaphilippe, Ciccone, Neilands, Haig, Mühlberger, O'Connor, Skjelmose, Vermaerke and Harper have come together up front to form a new break.

They lead by 1:00 now.

There is also a race for the GC unfolding 

Suddenly Benoot and Kelderman, and Soler and Majka of UAE are on the move!

UAE seem keen to place riders up front. For a big Pogacar attack later perhaps. 

The riders in the attack are: 

Julian Alaphilippe (Soudal-Quick Step), Jack Haig (Bahrain Victorious), Giulio Ciccone, Mattias Skjelmose (Lidl-Trek), Ben O’Connor (Ag2r-Citröen), Kevin Vermaerke (DSM-Firmenich), Gregor Mühlberger (Movistar), Krists Neilands (Israel-PremierTech), Chris Harper (Jayco-AlUla).

Pinot and Uran have crossed to the front group, to make 13 riders up front. 

But things are changing again. Soler, Majka, Kelderman and Benoot are also now in the attack, along with a 30 other riders.  

Simon Yates is also there, along with a lot of stage win contenders.

With 13km to climb on the Cormet de Roseland, the situations finally clearer and more controlled. 

We  an see the huge Roseland dam but the riders do not ride along the edge today. 

They continue upwards to 1968m. 

There are 33 riders in the attack. That's a fifth of the peloton!

Jumbo have Benoot and Kelderman in the attack but are also chasing with Laporte and Van Aert behind. 

That's logical because Vingegaard wants to have teammates ahead if Pogacar makes an early attack before the Col de la Loze. 

Finally, team cars can go up and across to the attackers. 

The Vingegaard group is 1:10 down on the attack, so race officials allow team cars to feed in the peloton and then jump across to the break.

During such an aggressive stage, it is also vital to have soigneur on the climbs to pass up bidons and food.

Marc Soler has been dropped from the attack. 

Sadly Phil Bauhaus has retired. 

The Bahrain was struggling all stage and off the back alone.

There 8km to climb on the Cormet de Roseland. It is a long, long climb  at 6%.

A step in the climb allows riders to feed and so UAE grab musettes and fresh drinks.

However they can see the rest of the climb ahead of  them.

There is a huge waterfall on the side of the mountain but there is no time for the riders to stop and freshen up.

Jumbo continue to lead the chase, with Nathan Van Hooydonck now on the front.

His steady pacing means the  gap is only 1:15. 

Ciccone, Alaphilippe and others continue to drive the break along but the peloton refuses to let them go.

The views from the Cormet de Roseland are stunning.

🤩 Le Lac de Roselend#TDF2023 pic.twitter.com/yopl5gkf4j July 19, 2023

These are the 33 rider in the attack:

Tiesj Benoot, Wilco Kelderman (Jumbo-Visma) Rafal Majka, Marc Soler (UAE Team Emirates), David Gaudu, Stefan Küng, Valentin Madouas, Thibaut Pinot (Groupama-FDJ), Magnus Cort, Rigoberto Urán (EF Education-EasyPost), Julian Alaphilippe, Dries Devenyns (Soudal-Quick Step), Pello Bilbao, Jack Haig (Bahrain Victorious), Giulio Ciccone, Mattias Skjelmose (Lidl-Trek), Ben O’Connor, Nans Peters, Felix Gall (Ag2r-Citröen), Rui Costa (Intermarché-Circus-Wanty), Guillaume Martin (Cofidis), Gregor Mühlberger (Movistar), Matthew Dinham, Kevin Vermaerke (DSM-Firmenich), Hugo Houle, Nick Schultz, Krists Neilands (Israel-PremierTech), Simon Yates, Lawson Craddock, Chris Harper (Jayco-AlUla), Clément Champoussin, Simon Guglielmi (Arkéa-Samsic), Alexey Lutsenko, Gianni Moscon (Astana), Tobias Johannessen, Jonas Gregaard (Uno-X).

The attackers are close to the summit of the Cormet de Roseland. 

Mattias Skjelmose is working for Ciccone, setting a high pace to the KOM point.  

Teams have more staff near the summit to pass up drinks.

Here we go! 

Ciccone kicks clear to pass the summit of the Cormet de Roseland first. Mattias Skjelmose plays the perfect teammate and is second, to take points from any rivals.

So far, nobody in the break seems keen to take on Ciccone.

Jumbo drag the GC peloton over the summit, 1:35 down on the 32 attackers.

The riders have climbed up to 1968m via the Cormet de Roseland but can now 'enjoy' a 30km descent to the valley.

In the peloton, Vingegaard has three teammates ahead of him and then Sepp Kuss covering his wheel. 

🔟+🔟 = 20 ⚪🔴@giuliocicco1 has now 83 KOM points.⚪🔴 @giuliocicco1 possède désormais 83 points au classement de la montagne.#TDF2023 pic.twitter.com/gtPaoNhwKA July 19, 2023

We're close to half way of the stage. 

The gap to the break is now 2:00, with Jumbo letting it expand very, very slowly. 

Behind, the green jersey group, the gruppetto of sprinters and survivors, is at close to 10:00. 

Up front it's an intriguing race, behind, it's a battle for survival.

Vingegaard is so well hydrated that he needs to take a natural break. Van Baarle helps him along with a push before they return to the front of the GC group.

It's 36C in the valley. Some riders will be happy to climb high in the Alps very soon.

More riders in the attack are taking on food and drink in the valley road.

They will need it, the road soon begins to climb via the Cat 2 Côte de Longefoy. It is 6.7 km but at 7.5%. It's short compared to the other climbs of the stage but it is steep.

The GC peloton continues to lose time and is 2:50 behind the 35-rider attack.

Jumbo are clearly riding to a plan and to power but Laporte his done and so they have used up one key rider to keep the attack in check.

Jumbo-Visma's Danish rider Jonas Vingegaard (R), UAE Team Emirates' Italian rider Matteo Trentin (2nd R) and UAE Team Emirates' Slovenian rider Tadej Pogacar wearing the best young rider's white jersey (C) cycle in Cormet de Roselend during the 17th stage of the 110th edition of the Tour de France cycling race, 166 km between Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc and Courchevel, in the French Alps, on July 19, 2023. (Photo by Thomas SAMSON / AFP)

The Côte de Longwy is nearly done and so Ciccone kicks again to score more KOM points.

He is sweeping up points nicely today.

Ciccone is fully dressed in polka-dot jerseys, even with polka-dot shorts, helmet and computer. 

Lidl - Trek's Italian rider Giulio Ciccone wearing the best climber's polka dot (dotted) jersey leads a breakaway during the 17th stage of the 110th edition of the Tour de France cycling race, 166 km between Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc and Courchevel, in the French Alps, on July 19, 2023. (Photo by Marco BERTORELLO / AFP)

Ciccone has a total of 88 Mountains points. He leads Powless by 30 points, with Vingegaard third on 57. 

Ciccone needs to score some points on the Col de la Loze to hold off Vingegaard. 

COURCHEVEL FRANCE JULY 19 Giulio Ciccone of Italy and Team LidlTrek Polka Dot Mountain Jersey competes itduring the stage seventeen of the 110th Tour de France 2023 a 1657km at stage from SaintGervais MontBlanc to Courchevel UCIWT on July 19 2023 in Courchevel France Photo by Tim de WaeleGetty Images

There is a race to start the descent on the front. 

That's wise, it is a twisty, narrow road. Stay safe everyone.

We're 20km from the start of the Col de la Loze. 

The tension is rising in the attack and in the GC peloton. 

Bernal has crashed! 

He seems to have slipped out on a fast hairpin bend. 

He is on his feet but is not happy.  

Bernal gets some encouragement from an Ineos mechanic and starts riding again.

This is the profile of the Col de la Loze. 

It's scary. The black part indicates a gradient above 9%.

The profile of the Col de la Loze

Jonas Vingegaard said he did his best ever time trial on Tuesday but Pogacar promised to fight back today. 

Click below to see what Vingegaard said. 

Jonas Vingegaard: At one point I even doubted my power meter

Jonas Vingegaard (Jumbo Visma) remains in yellow after stage 14

This was Pogacar's fighting talk. 

'It's definitely not over' – Pogacar defiant amid heavy losses at Tour de France

Tadej Pogacar tries an attack

Meanwhile, this morning  before the start of the stage, both UAE and Jumbo-Visma faced blood tests, just an  hour before the start of the stage. 

Jumbo-Visma and UAE Team Emirates undergo extra anti-doping tests at the Tour de France

As we near the foot of the Col de la Loze, Ineos are leading the GC group to try to defend Rodriguez's GC position and stop Pello Bilbao and Simon Yates from jumping above Rodriguez.   

COURCHEVEL FRANCE JULY 19 LR Omar Fraile of Spain and Egan Bernal of Colombia and Team INEOS Grenadiers compete during the stage seventeen of the 110th Tour de France 2023 a 1657km at stage from SaintGervais MontBlanc to Courchevel UCIWT on July 19 2023 in Courchevel France Photo by Tim de WaeleGetty Images

Bora are also riding to protect Jai Hindley's GC ambitions. 

The gap is down to 2:50.

Lawson Craddock is leading the attack to help Yates stay away.

His speed is spitting riders out of the attacks, as other riders are dropped from the GC group.

Trentin and Nathan Van Hooydonck have been dropped, as even Vingegaard and Pogacar lose teammates.

And the Col de la Loze is about to begin.

This is the Col de la Loze.

It's time for the big showdown up Col de la Loze ⛰️28.1km of ascent, a summit at 2,304m above sea level, slopes up to 24%... It's a beautiful and nasty one 🤩#TDFdata #TDF2023 pic.twitter.com/qd96cI8y5D July 19, 2023

AG2R have taken over in the attack and Ciccone has been dropped or has cracked.

He will hope that the break can stay away and take the KOM points from Vingegaard.

Alaphilippe has also been dropped and put AG2R put down the hurt so that Ben O'Connor can work for Felix Gall in the hope the Austrian can go for the stage win and move up in the GC. 

ISSOIRE, FRANCE - JULY 11: Ben O'connor of Australia and Ag2R Citroën Team competes in the breakaway during the stage ten of the 110th Tour de France 2023 a 167.2km stage from Vulcania to Issoire / #UCIWT / on July 11, 2023 in Issoire, France. (Photo by David Ramos/Getty Images)

Simon Yates is also a threat for the stage win, as is Pello Bilbao of Bahrain.  

Hey, let's be careful out there today. 

⚠ Many, many people in the climb up the Col de la Loze. Please everyone, when the race will be there, respect the riders!⚠ Beaucoup de monde dans l'ascension au Col de la Loze. S'il vous plait, respectez les coureurs quand ils passeront devant vous !#TDF2023 pic.twitter.com/5XJn0tEpPM July 19, 2023

Ineos have two riders on the front of the GC group, with Van Aert and Van Baarle protecting Vingegaard, who Kuss in his wheel. 

Pogacar has Adam Yates and Felix Großschartner with him. 

UAE have Majka and Soler up in the break, while Jumbo have Kelderman and Benoot. 

The chess board has been set for a great tactical show down and the final moves.  

There are 16 riders  up front in the attack and only 20 or so in the GC chase group. 

COURCHEVEL FRANCE JULY 19 Jonas Vingegaard of Denmark and Team JumboVisma Yellow Leader Jersey Tadej Pogacar of Slovenia and UAE Team Emirates White Best Young Rider Jersey and a general view of the peloton passing close to the Roselend Dam 1971m during the stage seventeen of the 110th Tour de France 2023 a 1657km at stage from SaintGervais MontBlanc to Courchevel UCIWT on July 19 2023 in Courchevel France Photo by Tim de WaeleGetty Images

In the GC group, Van Aert is done for the day and eases up.

He went deep yesterday in the TT and so hasn't done a massive amount of work today.

Omar Fraile and Jonathan Castroviejo are leading the GC group to defend Rodriguez's interests. 

The gap is down to 2:35. up front O'connor and Jack Haig are riding for Gall and Bilbao's GC hopes, in a tug of strength. 

This is all before any attacks from Pogacar and Vingegaard.

Interestingly, Thibaut Pinot and David Gaudu are in the attack and could both win the stage.

SAINTGERVAIS MONTBLANC FRANCE JULY 16 Thibaut Pinot of France and Team GroupamaFDJ competes in the breakaway during the stage fifteen of the 110th Tour de France 2023 a 179km stage from Les Gets les Portes du Soleil to SaintGervais MontBlanc 1379m UCIWT on July 16 2023 in SaintGervais MontBlanc France Photo by Michael SteeleGetty Images

In the GC group, Pogacar is sat on Vingegaard's wheel. 

Both seem tired but face a huge moment very soon on the steepest, final parts of the Col de la Loze. 

COURCHEVEL FRANCE JULY 19 Jonas Vingegaard of Denmark and Team JumboVisma Yellow leader jersey competes during the stage seventeen of the 110th Tour de France 2023 a 1657km at stage from SaintGervais MontBlanc to Courchevel UCIWT on July 19 2023 in Courchevel France Photo by David RamosGetty Images

The gap is 2:30, with 25km to race and 18km to climb.  

There are just 14 riders in the attack as they try to hold off the GC chase on the road to the Meribel ski resort. 

From there, from the sweeping left hairpin, the real climbing of the Col de la Loze begins.

Vingegaard has Van Baarle riding ahead of him, with Kuss a little bit further back in the group. 

Pogacar has Adam Yates, Großschartner and also Marc Soler, who has dropped back from the attack. 

Majka remains up front for when the attacks come, but so are Kelderman and Benoot.

UAE Team Emirates' Slovenian rider Tadej Pogacar wearing the best young rider's white jersey (C) cycles in the pursuing group in the ascent of Col de la Loze during the 17th stage of the 110th edition of the Tour de France cycling race, 166 km between Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc and Courchevel, in the French Alps, on July 19, 2023. (Photo by Thomas SAMSON / AFP)

Haig and O'Connor are doing a massive job up front, working together to keep the attack away.

They're swapping turns in the valley road up to Meribel, forcing Ineos to work hard to chase them and making everyone suffer.

Van Baarle has sat up. Vingegaard now only has Kuss in the GC group. 

The way the Col de la Loze plays out tactically will be fascinating.

The riders are 9km from the summit. Ben O'Connor continues to ride hard and so the attacks is 2:30 ahead of  the GC group. 

Is that gap too big to close for Vingegaard and Pogacar? Perhaps not if they attack very soon.

The attackers exit Meribel and begin the final 8.5km of the Col de la Loze. 

O'Connor is done and can hardly keep riding after his huge effort. 

Now Chris Harper is riding to set-up Simon Yates.

Pogacar has cracked! 

Pogacar had looked tired and simply can't hold the pace with 7.5km to climb.

Pogacar has opened his jersey and trying to hold his teammates wheel.  

Can he limit his losses and hold onto second overall?  His tour could unravel massively now.  

Tadej Pogacar in action on the Puy de Dome

Pogacar's suffering must be a huge relief for Vingegaard. He and Jumbo can ride a more paced race now. 

Pogacar is 20 seconds down on Vingegaard. 

Up front Gall surges away. Yates still has Harper to help the chase. 

Pinot and Bilbao are further back.  

UAE clearly knew that Pogacar was not on a good day, Adam Yates did not wait for him and is trying to defend his own podium place. 

This was the historic moment when Pogacar was dropped. 

😱 @TamauPogi is dropped!😱 @TamauPogi est distancé du groupe des favoris !#TDF2023 pic.twitter.com/deAl0ozvuH July 19, 2023

The Col de la Loze is hurting everyone. 

Carlos Rodriquez and Sepp Kuss have been dropped.

Benoot has dropped back to pace Vingegaard, with only Adam Yates on his wheel. 

Pogacar is already 1:00 behind and losing time rapidly.  

There are 4km to climb, the hardest 4km of this year's Tour de France. 

Gall is still clear alone, with Simon Yates chasing him. 

Adam Yates has been dropped and so Vingegaard is clear and alone. 

Vingegaard is 2:25 with 4km to race, can he close it on the steepest sections and even win the stage?

The riders are on the bike path section of the climb. The gradient changes often and so hurts more when combined with the high altitude.

Wow! Pogacar is 4:00 down on Simon Yates and 2:00 down on Vingegaard.

💛 Jonas Vingegaard goes solo on the Col de la Loze with 4 km to go!💛 Jonas Vingegaard s'en va seul dans l'ascension au Col de la Loze à plus de 4 kilomètres du sommet !#TDF2023 pic.twitter.com/BU56Vnrcs5 July 19, 2023

Gall leads Simon Yates by 24 seconds, with Vingegaard at 2:10.

Vingegaard joins teammate Kelderman and he gives him a pull. 

They're chopping seconds off Gall's lead with every pedal stroke.  

Yates and Majka are chasing Gall at 24 seconds.

Majka could win the stage but it'll be of little comfort to UAE and Pogacar. 

Gall starts the crowd-packed final section of the Col de la Loze.

His lead is down to 20 seconds on Simon Yates and Majka.

Motorbikes have stalled on a corner and partially blocked the road.

Yates is chasing Gall alone. He can see him now.

The motorbikes and crowds block the race directors car and so block Vingegaard. 

Yates is dancing on the pedals to try to catch Gall. He can also use the descent to the Courchevel Altiport to pull back the final seconds.

There is the final, hardest kilometre of the Col de la Loze to climb. 

Gall leads Yates by 20 seconds, with Vingegaard at 1:45 and closing.

Yates can see Gall ahead of him. 

This was the chaos on the corner when the motorbikes and race car blocked the riders.

Absolute chaos! 💛🇩🇰Vingegaard is forced around the race director's car as it's blocked by a stalled moto 🏍️#TDF2023 #ITVCycling pic.twitter.com/SJMPuvJHwM July 19, 2023

Whatever happens no, Gall has won the Prix de la Combativité for his solo attack. 

Meanwhile Pogacar has cracked massively. He is 4:00 down on Vingegaard.

Gall is near the summit. He is holding off Yates. 

Yates went over the summit at 20 seconds.  

Vingegaard is at 1:25, with other riders from the break.

Gall is diving down the descent to Courchevel. 

Gaudu and Bilbao are with Vingegaard. 

Gall needs to stay calm and collected for the final. 

Yates is at 15 seconds, Vingegaard at 1:25.

Behind Hindley is suffering, so is Rodriguez. 

We will rewrite the GC standing tonight.

We could see a sprint to the line between Galla and Yates on the climb to the Altiport finish.

This is a thriller. 

Then there's to understand what happened to Pogacar.

Gall can see the finish. It's 1km to go.  

Pogacar is 5:00 down on Vingegaard now.

Felix Gall (AG2R) reaches the uphill finish on the Altiport finish and wins the stage.

AG2R Citroen Team's Austrian rider Felix Gall cycles in a lone breakaway in the ascent of Col de la Loze in the final kilometres of the 17th stage of the 110th edition of the Tour de France cycling race, 166 km between Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc and Courchevel, in the French Alps, on July 19, 2023. (Photo by Marco BERTORELLO / AFP)

Simon Yates finishes just 34 seconds down on Gall.

The climb to the finish line is steep and so Vingegaard  suffers and Bilbao finishes ahead of him.

Bilbao is third at 1:38

Vingegaard is fourth at 1: 53. 

Vingegaard again kisses his ring as he crosses the line. He didn't win the stage but he and Jumbo cracked Pogacar to massively increase his GC lead.

It seems impossible for him to lose the 2023 Tour de France now.

COURCHEVEL FRANCE JULY 19 Jonas Vingegaard of Denmark and Team JumboVisma Yellow Leader Jersey competes during the stage seventeen of the 110th Tour de France 2023 a 1657km at stage from SaintGervais MontBlanc to Courchevel UCIWT on July 19 2023 in Courchevel France Photo by Tim de WaeleGetty Images

Majka and Adam Yates finish but it's a bad day for UAE. 

Hindley comes home as he fights for hids GC place, as other riders from the break finish.  

Carlos Rodriguez also finishes as he fights to hang to his top three hopes.

We'll need to count every second carefully to understand who sits where.

Tadej Pogacar suffers but reaches the finish, a massive 7:38 behind Gall

He stays second overall but has lost 6:00 to Vingegaard.

Pogacar crashed early in the stage and it'll be interesting to see how much impact that had. There was also his wrist fracture in the spring that impacted his return to training. 

Pogacar has stopped in the road and tries to recover ands understand what has happened. 

The new GC sees Pogacar 2nd at 7:35, with Adam Yates third at 10:45 and Carlos Rodriguez at  12:01. 

This is the new top ten on GC.

GC after Stage 17 #TDF2023 pic.twitter.com/MID7pNw5kx July 19, 2023
🇫🇷 #TDF2023 Family first. 🥰 pic.twitter.com/cMBQVSdNNL July 19, 2023

Simon Yates made a huge effort to try to win the stage. He is now slumped against the barriers on the road.

He eats a handful of haribo to try to kick-start his recovery and boost his energy levels.

Here's the moment when Gall won the stage.

AG2R Citroen Team's Austrian rider Felix Gall cycles to the finish line to win the 17th stage of the 110th edition of the Tour de France cycling race, 166 km between Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc and Courchevel, in the French Alps, on July 19, 2023. (Photo by Anne-Christine POUJOULAT / AFP)

This is when Vingegaard finishes and massively extends his GC race lead.

Jumbo-Visma's Danish rider Jonas Vingegaard cycles to the finish line the 17th stage of the 110th edition of the Tour de France cycling race, 166 km between Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc and Courchevel, in the French Alps, on July 19, 2023. (Photo by Anne-Christine POUJOULAT / AFP)

Almost seven minutes later, Pogacar finished. 

UAE team radio captured the moment Pogacar cracked. 

"I'm gone. I'm dead," he said to his team car and teammates. 

Felix Gall gave Austria a big win.

🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥🟥#TDF2023 | @Continental_fr | @AG2RCITROENTEAM pic.twitter.com/olr5gJXpm2 July 19, 2023

Giulio Ciccone finishes 20 minutes down but did enough early in the stage to keep the polka-dot jersey. 

Felix Gall was happy when he stepped on the podium and was emotional when he spoke for the first time.

Pogacar suffered hugely on the Col de la Loze and was quiet and subdued as he waited to go on the podium as the best young rider in the white jersey.

He rightly gets a cheer from the crowd for his bravery. 

UAE Team Emirates' Slovenian rider Tadej Pogacar wearing the best young rider's white jersey cycles in the ascent of Col de la Loze in the final kilometres of the 17th stage of the 110th edition of the Tour de France cycling race, 166 km between Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc and Courchevel, in the French Alps, on July 19, 2023. (Photo by Marco BERTORELLO / AFP)

“It’s incredible. I don’t know what to say. This whole year has been incredible and now to do so well in the Tour de France and to win the queen stage, it’s incredible. I just want to say thank you to the team. They have given me so much," Gall said.

AG2R Citroen Team's Austrian rider Felix Gall cycles to the finish line to win the 17th stage of the 110th edition of the Tour de France cycling race, 166 km between Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc and Courchevel, in the French Alps, on July 19, 2023. (Photo by Anne-Christine POUJOULAT / AFP)

“It’s not easy to do a three-week stage race and I also had the role of leader after a few days, so we slowly focussed on that. I was stressing myself about that also. It’s not easy but in the last few days I’ve been more and more comfortable. 

“I was feeling really great. Actually I was feeling great all day. I didn’t think the break would have a big chance to go for the victory. Before the last climb I was feeling super good and just looking by the numbers I knew that if we did this pace all day, I’d be in a good spot to give it a try. Ben did a great job on the last climb and I was just waiting for the steep part to attack.”

The gruppetto reaches the finish ten or so minutes inside the 46:16 time limit.  

There were a lot of  suffering and mixed emotions at the finish as riders understood if they had moved up in the GC or lost a chance of stage victory. 

"I don't know what happened, I came to the bottom of the climb really empty, all the food that I eat today didn't go to my legs. A super big disappointment," Pello Bilbao said after finishing third on the stage while moving up to sixth overall at 12:50.  

Bahrain - Victorious' Spanish rider Pello Bilbao cycles to the finish line of the 17th stage of the 110th edition of the Tour de France cycling race, 166 km between Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc and Courchevel, in the French Alps, on July 19, 2023. (Photo by Anne-Christine POUJOULAT / AFP)

For two weeks the 2023 Tour de France looked to be decided by seconds but it all changed in Tuesday's time  trial and then exploded on the Col de la Loze on stage 17.

Vingegaard hardly needed to attack as the Slovenian cracked and lost contact with 14.5km remaining in the stage.

By the finish line, Pogačar had ceded 5:45 to the maillot jaune. He managed to hold onto second place overall but without any hopes of overtaking Vingegaard, who is now 7:35 ahead in the overall standings.

COURCHEVEL FRANCE JULY 19 Tadej Pogacar of Slovenia and UAE Team Emirates White Best Young Rider Jersey reacts after the stage seventeen of the 110th Tour de France 2023 a 1657km at stage from SaintGervais MontBlanc to Courchevel UCIWT on July 19 2023 in Courchevel France Photo by Thibault Camus PoolGetty Images

Fortunately for Pogacar, his teammate Adam Yates is third overall at 10:45, with Carlos Rodriguez fourth at 12:01. 

Pogacar can perhaps recover in the next two transfer stages north to the Vosges but will have to fight in the final mountain stage on Saturday if he wants to finish on the final podium in Paris.   

Vingeggard hugged his wife and child and his teammates after the stage. He can now see Paris from the high Alps.

"Of course we are super happy - it's hard to describe. Now to have more than seven minutes is really incredible," he said before climbing onto the podium to shoe off a fresh yellow jersey. 

"Of course the Tour de France isn't over yet and I'm sure Tadej will try something on the last three stages. So we have to keep fighting, we're not in Paris yet." 

COURCHEVEL FRANCE JULY 19 Jonas Vingegaard of Denmark and Team JumboVisma Yellow Leader Jersey reacts after the stage seventeen of the 110th Tour de France 2023 a 1657km at stage from SaintGervais MontBlanc to Courchevel UCIWT on July 19 2023 in Courchevel France Photo by Michael SteeleGetty Images

Vingegaard also spoke about Pogacar's early crash. 

"I was just behind him, actually. One guy was going to the right and overlapped the wheel for Tadej, and Tadej couldn't do anything," he said. 

"That's very unfortunate for Tadej. We didn't sit up but we waited and we didn't push to get him out. We were just really doing defensively in the bunch not to profit from it. We wanted him to come back."

He spoke about the moment on the Col de la Loze when the race director's car blocked the road.

"It was definitely crazy, there was a lot of people - at one point I had to stand still because the car - that was unfortunate - but I guess that's what can happen when you put 20% gradients in the end of the Tour," he said, staying focused on overall victory. 

"Saturday is still a very hard stage, we have to keep the focus, we're not there yet."

🧹45 minutes after Felix Gall, and within the time limits, @simongeschke draws the curtain on what has been an exceptional Queen Stage. 🧹45 minutes après Felix Gall, et dans les délais, @simongeschke tire le rideau sur ce qui a été une étape reine hors du commun. #TDF2023 pic.twitter.com/PlMXS8jmM7 July 19, 2023

Tadej Pogacar spoke in the podium area, revealing he had struggled to take onboard energy. 

"I tried to eat as much as possible but it was like nothing goes in my legs, everything just stays in my stomach," he said. 

"I became really empty after three and a half hours. I was really empty at the bottom of the climb. If I don't have such great support around me, I was already thinking to lose the podium today. I kept fighting with Marc Soler till the finish. I'm grateful for all my teammates and the fans." 

Pogacar admitted the early crash could have affected him but it was just a terrible day in the saddle.  

"It hurts a little, maybe it affected my body. I just couldn't go today. It was not a good day," he said. 

"Today was one of the worst days on the bike but I had to keep fighting. In the end, Marc Soler really pushed me through my limit and we fought to the finish." 

Yet Pogacar stayed optimistic about a recovery, while quietly admitting defeat in the 2023 Tour.

"I hope to recover and we can go for another stage on stage 20. I think it will be a good stage if we have good legs. The team was super strong today, I think if we can aim for a stage win inside the team and keep the podium with me and Adam, that's a good finish." 

Well, what a stage. 

To full understand everything that happened, click below to read our full stage report  by Daniel Ostanek and see our growing photo gallery of all the action.

Tour de France: Vingegaard dashes Pogacar's GC hopes on stage 17 across Col de la Loze

COURCHEVEL FRANCE JULY 19 Jack Haig of Australia and Team Bahrain Victorious competes in the breakaway during the stage seventeen of the 110th Tour de France 2023 a 1657km at stage from SaintGervais MontBlanc to Courchevel UCIWT on July 19 2023 in Courchevel France Photo by Tim de WaeleGetty Images

Barry Ryan, Alasdair Fotheringham and Sophie Smith are on the ground in France and have witness close-up all the dramatic events of the stage.

They will provide rider interviews, reaction and analysis later today. 

Thanks for joining us for today's full live coverage of stage 17.

It was arguably a historic day at the Tour de France, which shaped the result of this year's race massively and perhaps the future of the sport for years to come. 

Join us on Thursday for full live coverage of stage 18 from Moutiers to Bourg-en-Bresse. It is a transfer stage north and suits the sprinters but they have to try to control the attacks and pull back any breakaways. 

We expect another day of action and fast racing. 

Jumbo-Visma's Danish rider Jonas Vingegaard celebrates on the podium with the overall leader's yellow jersey after the 16th stage of the 110th edition of the Tour de France cycling race, 22 km individual time trial between Passy and Combloux, in the French Alps, on July 18, 2023. (Photo by Thomas SAMSON / AFP)

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The best images from the 2023 Tour de France Stage 6

Tadej pogačar strikes back.

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! >","name":"in-content-cta","type":"link"}}'>Download the app .

I was a big day for the GC riders. The yellow jersey changed hands. A surprise attack by Tadej Pogačar caught Jonas Vingegaard off-guard making the race for the overall exciting and unpredictable.

Photographers Ashley and Jered Gruber and Chris Auld were jumping around the course finding the best shots all day long. Here are some of the best images from stage 6 of the 2023 Tour de France.

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Texas Children's Houston Open

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Houston, Texas • USA

Mar 28 - 31, 2024

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Salt Cathedral & Andrés D.C Tour

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Description

During this tour, you will enjoy a combination of culture, religion and gastronomy.At the first stop of the trip, you will discover the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá, known as one of the only underground temples in the world and the first wonder of Colombia.

When you leave there, you will visit one of the most famous restaurant in Bogotá and its surroundings: Andrés Carne de Res. Specializing in typical Colombian food, this place mixes a variety of rustic styles with the incredible cheerful spirit that characterizes our beloved city.

Tour Details

Availability.

Wednesday to Sunday

8 or 9 hours

Departure & Return

Departure time.

Flexible until 1:00 pm

Private tour

Biosecurity

Personal Kit

Driver & Local guide

Free Cancellation

Up to 24 hours in advance

Places to visit

*Top version includes one hour in Andrés D.C.

**Includes one drink per person.

***The workshop consists of an explanation and carving a piece of salt you will take you as a souvenir.

Price per person

* For group reservations (more than 6) and tours in other languages, please use GET A QUOTE .

* If you want a top night version, please contact us to quote

As a tourism company we want you to travel safely in Colombia. We comply with the biosecurity protocols established by the National Government and we have the Check in certificated and Safe Travels Stamp by the World Travel & Tourism Council.

To cancel or change the date of a tour, it must be done 24 hours before. Otherwise the money will not be refounded.

During the service you will be covered with a medical assistance card. Click to review the scope of coverage .

We have arranged several forms of payment. You will not have to worry about anything, your data will be safe.

  • Wear comfortable clothes and shoes.
  • Use sunscreen to avoid possible burns
  • Try to bring your own bottle of water and avoid the use of plastic bottles to help the planet.
  • Bring extra money in case you want to buy souvenirs or additional food
  • During the tour you must permanently wear the mask and remember to wash your hands or apply sanitizer constantly.

For other languages or more than 6 people

Related tours

Airport transfer, salt cathedral tour, ciudad bolivar colorful - daily departure, the tayrona lost city trek, araracuara "closer to chiribiquete" tour, local driver, frequently asked questions.

Children under 4 years do not pay

Yes, all our tours have insurance. To provide you confidence and security during activities whether by tourism, business or other type of events. We offer medical assistance to our travellers by ensuring your stay will be protected

The capacity of our vehicles is 70% 

If one of the attractions is closed we’ll change it for another

Now we implement biosecurity protocols approved by the institutions authorized of our country and we have de CHECK-IN STAMP and Safe Travels.

Some of our Covid-19 precautions: 

  • Use of face masks is mandatory for travelers and guides
  • Constant use of hand sanitizer
  • Social distancing throughout experience

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Neva Travels Co. Travel in Colombia with us and be part of this amazing idea. Excellent services, responsability and innovation. Our goal: your happiness.

Information

  • Calle 16 # 4 – 67 local 11 Edificio Continental, Bogotá
  • +57 744 3897
  • +57 321 482 0537

[email protected]

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  • Schedule at office: Monday to Friday: 9:00 to 17:30 Saturday: 9 to 12, Sundays and Holidays Closed
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In furtherance of the provisions of Article 17 of Law 679 of 2001, the agency warns to the tourist that exploitation and sexual abuse of minors in the country are sanctioned criminal and administrative according to the laws Privacy Policy Neva Travels SAS in compliance with the provisions of Law 1581 of 2012 which regulates the collection and processing of personal data, and establishes the legal guarantees to which all persons in Colombia for the proper treatment of such information

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Andrés Carne de Res Night Tour

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Andrés Carne de Res Night Tour

*Campos Obrigatórios

Available: Yes

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Days & Hours:

No trip to Bogotá is complete without a trip to Colombia’s most famous bar-restaurant-nightclub . Andres Carne de Res is a truly one-of-a-kind experience! You can’t say you’ve experienced Bogotá’s nightlife without joining the crowds at Andres Carne de Res , whether you stay for a drink, a meal or to dance the night away!

The New York Times described the Andrés Carne de Res experience as “representative of what the world misses out on by not going to Colombia: it manages to be profound, spellbinding, beautiful, tumultuous, confusing and fattening all at once.” Book this tour and you’ll get the chance to experience that for yourself. Your night will begin by being picked up and driven to the sprawling venue on the outskirts of the city that seats up to 2000 people, with 5 kitchens, 2 dance floors and a kids area! You have the option here to dine, drink and enjoy an unforgettable night of fun and dancing.

Don’t miss out on this quintessential night out in Bogotá! Whether you’re a young traveller looking for a party, or a family on vacation in Colombia, Andrés Carne de Res caters to everyone. Book your evening tour to Andrés Carne de Res now and see for yourself why this venue is so famous!

  • This tour departs with a minimum of 2 persons . If there are no other passengers, a single booking is treated as a private tour and carries an extra cost. Should you wish to make an individual reservation, please contact our support team to enquire about availability.

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Amazing Experience

It's one of the best experiences in Colombia. Since it's on the outskirts of the city, taking the...

It's one of the best experiences in Colombia. Since it's on the outskirts of the city, taking the tour is the easier way to do it. Worth the trip!

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2024 Houston Open: Live stream, watch online, TV schedule, channel, tee times, golf coverage, radio

The pga tour travels to the lone star state as some players make final preparations for the first major of the year.

PGA: Houston Open - Third Round

A dramatic Florida swing has come and gone, giving way for the return of the 2024 Houston Open. Not on the PGA Tour schedule in 2023, the Houston Open has found its way back on the calendar and will welcome a number of heavy hitters to Memorial Park Golf Course for the fourth time.

Leading the way is the man who owned the Florida swing: Scottie Scheffler. A winner at the Arnold Palmer Invitational and the Players Championship in his last two starts, the world No. 1 has eyes on his third straight victory this week. Scheffler was unable to rattle off three in a row in 2022 but hopes to join players like Dustin Johnson, Rory McIlroy and Tiger Woods by winning three consecutive starts.

Scheffler has performed well at Memorial Park in his career and is the heavy favorite to claim the title, but Wyndham Clark may have something to say. A runner-up to Scheffler at both Bay Hill and TPC Sawgrass, the reigning U.S. Open champion has entered the conversation of being a top-five player in the world.

Clark eyes his second win of the season after claiming the AT&T Pebble Beach Pro-Am. His fellow Americans Tony Finau, Sahith Theegala and Will Zalatoris all hope to enter the winner's circle for the first time in 2024, with Finau being the last man to win at Memorial Park in the Fall of 2022.

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Round 2 - Friday

Round starts:  8:15 a.m.

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Round starts:  11 a.m.

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Beyoncé’s ‘Cowboy Carter’ Is a Sprawling, Endlessly Entertaining Tour de Force: Album Review

By Chris Willman

Chris Willman

Senior Music Writer and Chief Music Critic

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Beyoncé beyonce cowboy carter album cover review

It sounds pretty magnificent, if a short answer is required. But if it’s genre we all really want to get into, “Cowboy Carter” sounds kinda country, and kinda not — in a way that feels wholly country. Because what is modern country music if not a cornucopia that’s a long way past being defined by a single sound? “Act II” feels a lot like a 27-course meal, difficult to describe in whole, but endlessly easy to digest, serving by serving. There are moments throughout where she’s embracing the tropes and traditions of country as we’ve known it, and just as many where you’re thinking she decided to abandon the concept, until suddenly Willie Nelson or Dolly Parton pop up for one of their intermittent spoken cameos, or there’s a fleeting Patsy Cline interpolation, and suddenly she’s veered back into C&W mode again. No one will mistake this sprawling set for ever following a straight path, or having a remotely dull moment.

It’s almost as if Beyoncé was watching some of the evolutionary leaps and hiccups country has been experiencing as it redefines its boundaries — as the music always has — and said, “Hold my Armand de Brignac. I’ve got this.”  But it’s not just a matter of what Beyoncé can do for country music; it’s what her concept of country can do for her, in expanding her musical empire and even her already well-honed sense of self. It’s a lot.

As a whole, “Cowboy Carter” is a masterpiece of sophisticated vocal arranging, laid out on top of mostly fairly stark band tracks. It’s not as if she ever laid off that great trick of her trade, even in a dance-based album like “Renaissance.” But here her brilliance at rendering self-harmonies is pushed up to the forefront in a way that might not have been as easy to focus on for a listener since Destiny’s Child covered “Carol of the Bells” for a Christmas record. It’s bliss.

Apart from these mostly common elements, the tracks almost couldn’t be more different from one another. Who knew that her exploration of Black Country would seem so much like her White Album? Or like a countrified version of Side 2 of “Abbey Road,” once the second half of this album turns into a series of short, sometimes weirder songs that have more strength as part of a dizzying medley than they might as Spotify singles. In its own fashion, “Cowboy Carter” plays as well as a smartly sequenced album as “Renaissance” did, even though that felt like a DJ club set and the new one goes harder on eclectic songcraft.

Her decision to issue “Texas Hold ‘Em” and “16 Carriages” as the two teaser tracks two months in advance of the album turns out to have been ideal for setting expectations for two very different sides of the record. “Texas” wasn’t shy about invoking country tropes, like line-dancing; it, along with some of the attendent pre-release imagery, made some suspicious souls wonder if this album would end up feeling like country cosplay. But then there was “Carriages,” a deeply personal ballad about her misspent youth as a budding starlet, sounding nothing like either old or new country, but married to the genre somehow just by the sound of its intricately plucked strings and storytelling.

There aren’t many moments that sell the lifestyle-branding side of country as hard as “Texas Hold ‘Em” does. (That song did its job; it’s still rising on the country airplay charts, upending some people’s initial expectations.) But of course she’s tying herself to mainstream country’s coolest elders, bringing in Willie Nelson, who does a couple of faux-DJ skits, and Dolly Parton, who brings a chuckle to a spoken introduction to Bey’s “Jolene” cover by pointing out the correlation between that classic’s auburn-haired temptress and the fabled Becky-with-the-good-hair. The Dolly homage is unquestionably the most pure country number on the album, but it’s not a completely straight take, as Beyoncé has rewritten almost all of the lyrics (and added a bridge) to make the song a fiercely protective warning instead of an endangered housewife’s plea. Taking out all the vulnerability lessens the tune a little, but it’s still a kick to hear “Jolene” with a serious infusion of “Lemonade.”

Did we mention that this murder fantasy — which starts off with a classical-sounding guitar that sounds almost fit for a Marty Robbins song — eventually winds up with Beyoncé flawlessly singing an aria from the 1700s, “Caro Mio Ben,” in Italian? It’s that kind of unpredictable album, although this at least counts as probably the strangest turn on it. Unless you count “Oh Louisiana,” a much goofier number that has Beyoncé covering a Chuck Berry oldie in a sped-up voice for a mere 52 seconds.

In evangelizing for this album, it’s hard to know whether to emphasize its weirder choices or its more conventional pleasures. There are more than enough of both of them to give “Cowboy Carter” a real sense of dynamics. But when it comes to the most straightforward material, the average listener may gravitate immediately to Beyoncé’s crowd-pleasing duet with Miley Cyrus , “II Most Wanted,” which has producer Ryan Tedder building a breezy buddyship anthem over an interpolation of Fleetwood Mac’s “Landslide.” “I’ll be your shotgun rider ’til the day I die / Smoke out the window flyin’ down the 405,” they sing, putting the western back in country & Western. “II Most Wanted” is not the most interesting song here, but Bey harmonizes with Cyrus just as effectively as she does with herself. It’d be no surprise if their duet finds its way onto and sticks around the adult contemporary chart for about 18 months.

Sexy-time is a big thing on this album, too. Another superstar duet, “Levii’s Jeans,” has Post Malone in the role of Jay-Z. (Or at least we can surmise from other lyrics on the album that Beyoncé considers herself to have a very healthy marital relationship, physically and otherwise.) “Baby, let me rattle that snake with my venom / Denim on denim on denim on denim,” she sings, although it’s actually more lilting and gentle in tone than any saucy lyric excerpt is going to make it sound.

There are theories that “Act III” in her promised musical triptych will be a rock ‘n’ roll album. It could be wishful thinking; maybe she is saving an all-arias album for last in the trilogy. But if she is planning to rock, she gets a slight head start on it here with a couple of numbers here. “Bodyguard” is a strummed soft-rock number with a straight-up backbeat, sounding almost like a demo, in its sweet minimalism.

Later, she seriously ramps up the energy with “Ya Ya,” which brings out her Tina Turner side, and/or sounds like a “TAMI Show” outtake. “Ya Ya” risks extending itself an interpolation too far, as some iconic bass riffing from “These Boots Are Made for Walkin’” is succeeded by Bey twice throwing in the hook from that famous country classic, “Good Vibrations.” On paper, “Ya Ya” is overstuffed with references, but that doesn’t really matter when you can feel the wind coming off the fringe of her miniskirt.

It takes until the 12 th song on the album — at which point, remember, we’re not halfway through — till we get the first and only real hip-hop song on the album, “Spaghetti,” which has Beyoncé rapping, ever so briefly. But it does have, yes, the barest trace of a spaghetti Western feel, which is just enough to technically tie it back to the overriding concept. It also has an introducion from Linda Martell, the first Black female star in country music (circa 1970), who gives a short homily: “Genres are a funny little concept, aren’t they? … In theory, they have a simple definition, but in practice, well, some may feel confined.”

And then, after a few more essentially acoustic-based songs that pick up the tempo, there’s the final stretch of the album, where things finally get a lot looser and loopier. It may be at this late point in the album when Beyoncé loses some people. After the bonkers “Oh Louisiana” and the 1:13 paean to oral sex that is “Desert Eagle,” a few listeners might be going: What the hell was that we just heard? Suddenly, after that, it begins turning into a club album, with “II Hands to Heaven,” which has an electronic pulse we haven’t heard much of, and “Tyrant,” which flirts with trap, even though Bey is keeping the rodeo underpinnings alive with a “Giddy-up, giddy-up.”

Hearing the album finally turn into something that feels a bit closer to 2022’s “Renaissance” toward the very end could be seen as a reward for some of her faithful fans who are more into dance music for sticking through the Texas two-stepping. But in country terms, it also feels a bit like going to California’s Stagecoach Festival, where the headliner is now always followed at the end of the final night by a late-night DJ set from Diplo, since the line between line-dancing and EDM culture is being further erased these days.

Who cares if any or all of it is country or not, you might ask? Well, lots of people do — especially fellow Black artists who have a stake in how this album is received and how it might affect their futures. Martell, 82, is on board for a couple of spoken-word interludes to serve as a reminder Black country’s largely swept-under-the-rug past. But Beyoncé has brought on board here several young singers who are part of the music’s past and future, including Willie Jones, on “Just for Fun,” and Shaboozey, on “Spaghetti” and again on “Sweet Honey Buckin’,” where their interplay is as randy as the title suggests.

“You were only waiting for this moment to arrive” — that’s a key line for an album that lives up to its event status as an inherent piece of agitprop and socially significant performance art, reflecting and affecting the history of Black music and country. It obviously has been compared to Ray Charles’ landmark 1962 “Modern Sounds in Country and Western Music,” but this feels different than someone coming in and adopting the existing country songbook for their own purposes, vital as that was. Beyoncé expanding this historic catalog with her own crucial additions to it is a never-to-be-forgotten signpost, however much it does or doesn’t immediately affect the fortunes of those still trying to get a basic foothold in the genre.

And she’s not pulling this off either by unduly ingratiating herself into a scene with country customs or ignoring those hallmarks entirely. With this endlessly entertaining project, she gets to be a warrior of female and Black pride and a sweetheart of the radio. Because being Beyoncé means never having to pretend to be just one thing.

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Red Square & Moscow City Tour

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Description

Highlights:.

  • Experience medieval Kitay Gorod (China town).
  • Wander picturesque Red Square and Alexander Garden.
  • Explore grand Christ the Savior Cathedral on our Red Square tour.
  • Breathtaking panoramic views from Patriarch bridge.
  • Enjoy a hearty lunch on the large open verandah and marvel at the stunning views of the Kremlin.
  • Learn about Russian culture from the local through relaxed cultural discussions.

Tour Itinerary:

Red square:.

Russia and Moscow are synonymous with Red Square and the Kremlin and that's hardly surprising as you'll find these places absolutely stunning!

  • - Walk-through the Resurrection Gate and don’t forget to flip a coin so you’ll be sure to come back one day!
  • - Visit the world's famous Kazan Cathedral .
  • - See the State Department Store (GUM), once the Upper Trading Stalls, which were built over a century ago and still operating!
  • - Admire the lovely St. Basil's Cathedral! The French diplomat Marquis de Custine commented that it combined "the scales of a golden fish, the enamelled skin of a serpent, the changeful hues of the lizard, the glossy rose and azure of the pigeon's neck" and wondered at "the men who go to worship God in this box of confectionery work".
  • - Walk by Lobnoye Mesto (literally meaning "Execution Place", or "Place of Skulls"), once Ivan the Terrible's stage for religious ceremonies, speeches, and important events.
  • - Entering the Alexander Garden , you’ll take in spectacular views of Russian architecture from ancient to Soviet times, as well as the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier with an eternal flame. Watch Changing of the Guard Ceremony every hour in summer and every half an hour in winter.

Kitai-gorod:

Stroll along medieval Kitai-gorod with its strong ancient Russia feel, known for its bohemian lifestyle, markets and arts.

  • - Nikolskaya Street. Here you will find the Russia's first publishing house, the second oldest monastery, and Ferryn Pharmacy, known as the number one pharmacy back in Soviet times and famous for its Empire-style architecture.
  • - Ilinka Street. The financial street of the Kitaigorod (China Town) district, where you’ll find the Gostiny Dvor (Merchant’s Yard), which is now a showroom for Ferraris and Maseratis. The street was designed in the 1790s by Catherine the Great.
  • - Varvarka street. The oldest street in Moscow, which dates back to the 14th century, and still has remnants of early Muscovite architecture, such as the Old English Court and the Palace of the Romanov’s.
  • - Kamergersky Lane. Only a small road of about 250 meters, it is home to some of the oldest artifacts of the city, as each building holds a fascinating story. Some of Russia's most famous writers, poets, and composers from as far back as the Golden Age of Russian culture, have lived or worked on this lane.

Historic City Center

Walk the historical old center of Moscow with its cool local vibe, including the main Tverskaya street , and indulge in desserts in the first grocery “Eliseev's store” , housed in an 18th century neoclassical building, famous for its baroque interior and decoration.

From our tour. Impressions of our American tourist:

At 3:30, as energy flagged, lunch was on the agenda at a Ukrainian restaurant.  Just in time!  We asked our guide to order for us.  We all had the same thing....borscht (the Ukrainian version has beans and more tomatoes than the Russian version, which has more beets and includes beef). 

The special high bread served is called galushki.  Our main course was golubtsy...a dish of minced meat rolled in braised cabbage leaves.  Both dishes called for optional sour cream as a topping....of course, yes, please....I recommend it. 

Full, satisfied, and completely refreshed, it was off to Red Square and St. Basil's and GUM department store.  Red Square is not so named because of the color of the brick walls of the Kremlin.  Rather the word for 'red' and the word for 'beautiful' are similar in pronunciation....and, there you have it. 

As we made the turn by the National Museum in front of which is the mounted sculpture of the "Marshall of Victory," Giorgy Zhukov from WWII and caught our first view of St. Basil's, my friend and I simultaneously emitted "Oooohhhhh!"  There it was....the iconic onion domes of St. Basil's!  Hooray....it was open until 7....we had about 30 minutes and were allowed in, AND we could take photos with no flash. 

Now, I can give you a taste of what we saw in the other cathedrals in Cathedral Square.  What we learned is that St. Vasily and St. Basil are one in the same....Russian/English.  He was a common man who wandered Moscow unclothed and barefoot.  But, all, even Ivan the Terrible, heeded his opinions derived from his visions.  Ivan had this cathedral built over his tomb. 

As we exited and took photos up close of the onion domes, Inna presented us with chocolate (how did she know we were ready for another energy boost, and we each got a big piece of chocolate.  The baby's name pictured on the wrapper of this famous Russian chocolate is Alyonka....the Russian Gerber baby, don't you think? 

One could wear out the credit card in GUM's (capitalized because it is actually a government abbreviation), but the 'kitty' and my credit card stayed in my pocket as we strolled through the glass-topped arcade. 

We then strolled through some of Moscow's lovely pedestrian streets; paused to listen as a wonderful quartet performed Vivaldi's "Four Seasons" in an underground passage to cross the busy street (hooray!....we DID have our 'classical concert' experience after all; a request Alina tried in vain to fill because none was scheduled those days), saw the Bolshoi, which means 'big' (my friend has yet to recover that their performance schedule did not coincide with our cruise), saw the Central Telegraph Building, dating from the 1930's, and made our way to the Ritz-Carlton to see the night view of Moscow from the rooftop bar, called O2. 

There were fleece blankets to wrap yourself in....yes, it got that cold when the sun set.  We each ordered something hot to drink...the ginger, mint, lemon tea served to me in a parfait glass (for 600 rubles...about $9....you pay for the view here!) was delightful and hit the spot perfectly.  It was time to call it a night....

What you get:

  • + A friend in Moscow.
  • + Private & customized Moscow tour.
  • + An exciting city tour, not just boring history lessons.
  • + An authentic experience of local life.
  • + Flexibility during the tour: changes can be made at any time to suit individual preferences.
  • + Amazing deals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the very best cafes & restaurants. Discounts on weekdays (Mon-Fri).
  • + A photo session amongst spectacular Moscow scenery that can be treasured for a lifetime.
  • + Good value for souvenirs, taxis, and hotels.
  • + Expert advice on what to do, where to go, and how to make the most of your time.

*This Moscow city tour can be modified to meet your requirements.

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Marisa Abela in Back to Black (2024)

The life and music of Amy Winehouse, through the journey of adolescence to adulthood and the creation of one of the best-selling albums of our time. The life and music of Amy Winehouse, through the journey of adolescence to adulthood and the creation of one of the best-selling albums of our time. The life and music of Amy Winehouse, through the journey of adolescence to adulthood and the creation of one of the best-selling albums of our time.

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