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Best Antarctica Cruise – Ultimate Guide to Who & How [2024]

• Last Updated: March 28, 2024

If you’re planning on going on the world’s most epic bucket list adventure by booking an Antarctica cruise there’s a few things you need to know first. In our ultimate guide we draw on our personal experience from multiple trips to share the how, who, when and why of travelling on a cruise to Antarctica!

Whether you’re ready to book, doing more research or simply interested in the idea of visiting Antarctica, there’s some very important things you need to know before dropping your hard-earned money on an expedition to the 7th continent.

We’ve been travelling and working in Antarctica since 2017, first as photographers and content creators, then as tour guides taking our own groups to this beautiful part of the world.

One thing we’ve discovered over the years is that no two Antarctic expeditions are the same – both in experience, and in service.

A quick Google will show that there are over 100 operators registered to IAATO, the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators, to run trips down here, and then there are a handful of private enterprises and sailers that visit each year as well.

So how do you know which operator to book with? What time of year should you go? Why are some companies more expensive than others? And with so many different itineraries now available, which one should you choose?

That’s what we have set out to answer for you in this comprehensive guide.

By the end of this article you will have a great understanding of the differences between the best Antarctica cruises and which companies we recommend based on personal experience and intimate industry knowledge.

Ready to embark on the journey of a lifetime? Let’s dive into it!

READ MORE: Dive deep into our complete guide on travelling to Antarctica !

Table of Contents

Can You Travel to Antarctica in Winter?

Crossing the drake passage vs flying the drake passage, crossing the antarctic circle, the weddell sea and snow hill, falkland islands (islas malvinas), south georgia, the ‘trio’ – antarctica, south georgia and falkland islands, the ross sea from new zealand or australia, quark expeditions, aurora expeditions, hurtigruten, other operators, navigating antarctic waters, does a more expensive trip mean a better experience, 7 days – express (fly the drake), 10/11 days – classic antarctic peninsula, 14 days – crossing the antarctic circle or visit the weddell sea/snow hill, 20 days – falkland islands, south georgia island and antarctica, 21-24 days – trio and crossing the circle, 28 days – ross sea or ‘sailing’ to antarctica on a yacht, zodiac cruises, landings and hiking, onboard seminars, polar plunge, wildlife watching, sea kayaking, day paddling, mountaineering and climbing, skiing and snowboarding, scuba diving, photography workshops, citizen science programs, environmental responsibility when choosing an antarctica cruise operator, when is the best time to go on an antarctica cruise.

All commercial operators that run trips to Antarctica during the Southern Hemisphere’s spring and summer months, stretching from late October to March, with the majority being between November and February.

Each month offers travellers a very different experience.

In November, as the continent emerges from its icy slumber, voyagers are greeted with pristine and untouched snowy landscapes.

Antarctica is at its most beautiful, but it also brings challenges for expedition teams due to weather, sea ice and snow density, meaning some landings might not be possible.

December and January are the peak months of the Antarctic summer, with the warmest temperatures (sometimes never dropping below freezing except at night), very long daylight hours, and the heartwarming sight of penguins nurturing their freshly hatched chicks.

It’s also the busiest time of year though on the Peninsula.

As the season progresses into February and March, the continent witnesses the awe-inspiring migrations of thousands of humpback whales and penguins shedding their feathers in the molting season.

The Peninsula might look it’s ‘dirtiest’ though, with much of the ground snow melted.

While the scenery is mesmerising throughout, the choice of month can tailor very different wildlife encounters and unique experiences.

We’ve written another full guide on the best time to visit Antarctica , but personally we prefer to travel early season (November) for landscapes and penguins, and late season (February and March) for whales.

After our very successful tour to Antarctica this season, we are going to be running another exclusive adventure down to the Peninsula in 2025, this time crossing the Antarctic Circle! Check out the tour page if you’d like to learn more.

Unfortunately tourists cannot visit Antarctica in winter due to the extremely cold weather and huge congestion in sea ice limiting access.

Antarctic Cruise Itineraries

There are a variety of different itineraries that are available to book for cruises to Antarctica.

Depending on your style, budget, interests and length of time available you’ll find some trips that are common (for good reason), and others that are very unique and only happen once every few years.

Here are the main Antarctic cruise itineraries you can book.

Antarctic Peninsula

The most common itinerary to Antarctica is a trip to the Antarctic Peninsula, most often departing from the port of Ushuaia in Argentina, at the very southern tip of South America.

These trips usually take around 10-12 days, with 5-7 days spent on the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula (the rest of the days are travelling over the Drake Passage), and no two trips are the same.

Some of the main destinations that you might visit on an Antarctic Peninsula cruise are:

• Deception Island
• South Shetland Islands
• Vernadsky Station
• Elephant Island
• Paulet Island
• Damoy Point
• Portal Point
• Cuverville Island
• Errera Channel
• Gerlache Strait
• Lemaire Channel

Just because it’s the most common tour doesn’t mean it’s not worth doing. A Peninsula trip is truly mind-blowing, and allows you to officially step foot on the 7th continent.

When researching Antarctic Peninsula cruises you’ll probably see that the majority of the itineraries sail across the Drake Passage , the infamous stretch of sea between South America and Antarctica, while a couple fly over the Drake to King George Island.

Many people are worried about the Drake Passage, which is understandable – it has the reputation for being the roughest sea in the world.

But one thing to keep in mind is that you’re not sailing to Antarctica in a little boat. You’re on a large expedition ship which is designed to handle much worse conditions than the Drake.

Seasickness might be a concern, but there’s medication to help with that and every trip has a doctor onboard.

The alternative is to fly the Drake from Punta Arenas in Chile, and while this is very tempting (it saves 4 days of travel and no rough seas to cross), there’s one very important thing to keep in mind:

Weather at King George Island is very unpredictable, and with just one scheduled flight a day allowed, cancellations are very common.

Visibility needs to be very clear down there and the right direction of wind for the pilots to land safely. If they don’t think they can land safely, they don’t depart Chile.

If your flight to Antarctica is cancelled on one day, the company usually only has one more attempt to get their guests down there before they have to forfeit their spot for the next company’s charter.

So if you’re unlucky and just so happen to get two days of bad weather in either Punta Arenas or Antarctica during your scheduled days of departure, your entire trip can be cancelled.

For that reason we do not recommend flying over the Drake Passage to Antarctica unless you are 110% positive that you mentally cannot handle the sea crossing.

Plus if you do cross the Drake by sea you get that added sense of achievement.

If stepping foot on the Antarctic continent isn’t enough, you can become one of the 0.001% of the human population who will ever cross the fabled Antarctic Circle at 66º southern latitude.

A few companies offer Antarctica tours that aim to cross the Circle (we say aim because nothing is guaranteed down here), and these itineraries are usually around 14 days (with 7-10 days on the Peninsula).

One thing to note is that there isn’t really anything ‘different’ once you cross the circle – the landscapes and wildlife are more or less same.

But you get more time in Antarctica, and get to venture to one of the most remote places on the planet.

Some Antarctica tours go to the eastern side of the Peninsula and enter the Weddell Sea, which promises a different experience again and is not often visited by travellers.

There’s a lot of fascinating history in the Weddell Sea, especially around Sir Ernest Shackleton and his legendary tale of survival from the Endurance with his crew, so if this is of interest it’s worth looking for an itinerary that follows this path.

One unique tour that’s popped up recently, and has been pioneered by Quark Expeditions and now also offered by Ponant, is a trip to the emperor penguins of Snow Hill .

This trip is only offered once every couple of years in the early season (October) and requires either an icebreaker ship or a Class 1A ice-strengthened ship with helicopters, which allows guests to get close to the emperor penguin colony.

It’s known as one of the world’s greatest wildlife experiences, and has the price to match.

We’ve never personally done this but hope to one day.

The Falkland Islands, or Isla Malvinas, is a truly spectacular archipelago about 1.5 days cruising from Ushuaia.

You’ll find some fantastic itineraries that include Falkland Islands, either as part of the trio (below), or sometimes starting in the Falkland Islands.

If you love British history, or just want something a little different, it’s worth looking at an itinerary that includes the Falklands.

The wildlife here, while not as dense as South Georgia, is especially fascinating for birdlife like albatross.

Known as the Serengeti of the Southern Ocean, South Georgia is one of the most incredible wildlife destinations on the planet.

Boasting dramatic mountains, huge glaciers and beaches filled with hundreds of thousands of king penguins, elephant seals and fur seals, it really is a sensory overload and we’ve seen quite a few people shed a tear when they’ve seen Salisbury Plain or St Andrews Bay for the first time.

In all honesty, as amazing as Antarctica is, most people who visit South Georgia end up saying that this spectacular island is their real highlight of the trip.

There are a few itineraries that only visit South Georgia (usually after flying into Stanley in the Falkland Islands), but the majority will either include the Peninsula and possibly the Falklands.

Adding on South Georgia adds significant expense to an Antarctic trip due to how remote it is, but it is 100% worth it.

Check out our guide on the best time to visit South Georgia based on our personal experience.

Considered to be the pinnacle of best Antarctic tours is a trip that includes the Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands, often referred to as the ‘trio’.

These itineraries are usually around 20 days long, with quite a few days spent at sea navigating between each destination, so if you can find a longer itinerary that includes more days at each place it’s worth exploring.

This is the Antarctic cruise itinerary we most recommend.

Our own group tour on the trio includes the most amount of days in each location available.

An Antarctic cruise to the Ross Sea from either New Zealand or Australia is a very rare occurrence, with only a small number of companies making the journey, and is usually booked by people who have been to the Peninsula before and want to see a different side of the continent.

A trip to the Ross Sea involves a lot of sea days and can be very expensive, but they visit very important research bases, follow the explorers Mawson and Shackleton’s history and includes penguin colonies not often seen, or located on the Macquarie Islands in the Subantarctic.

Heritage Expeditions is one such operator that runs two trips a year to the Ross Sea, via the Subantarctic Islands.

As of 2025 Aurora Expeditions, the award-winning Australian polar company, will be returning to the Eastern side of Antarctica from Hobart on their newest X-Bow ship, the Douglas Mawson.

CEO Michael Heath says, “We are equally delighted to be offering passengers new itineraries departing from Australia as part of the ship’s inaugural season, including an exploration of Mawson’s Antarctica, which will visit Mawson’s Huts at Cape Denison, Commonwealth Bay, and New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands.

“AE Expeditions has pioneered expedition travel to the world’s most remote places for more than three decades, and we know that exploration is not just about what you see, but how you see it.

“That is why we are committed to delivering life changing experiences with the newest, most advanced technology available, and with the most experienced and passionate team in the industry,” he added.

Our Best Tips for Choosing the Right Antarctica Expedition for You

Choosing the right Antarctic cruise is essential for crafting an unforgettable polar experience.

This remote, icy frontier promises unparalleled adventures and sights, but the vast array of cruise options available can be overwhelming.

From the more than 100 different companies that operate down there, different ship sizes and amenities and of course the nuances of itineraries and activities, every detail plays a big part in shaping your journey.

With such a significant investment of time, money, and anticipation, it’s crucial to make informed decisions.

As you dream of gliding past enormous tabular icebergs and observing wildlife in its purest habitat, here are our best tips to ensure you select the right Antarctic cruise and best Antarctica tour company that aligns perfectly with your expectations and desires.

The Best Antarctica Cruise Company – Our Recommendations

With more than 100 operators running trips to Antarctica it’s very easy to be overwhelmed with who to go with.

And if you ask for opinions from a travel agent, they’ll just tell you the one that either a) pays them the most commission or b) is going to offer them a free trip if they sell X number of spots.

Then if you ask in one of the popular Facebook groups, the answer will almost inevitably be whichever company that particular person went with, and they have nobody else to compare them to.

We’ve travelled with a whole variety of polar operators, and here’s our top 5 recommendations and why.

Canadian company Quark Expeditions is one of the true pioneers in polar adventures.

Established in 1991, this trailblazing company has spent decades perfecting the art of delivering unparalleled experiences in the planet’s most remote regions.

They were the the first to organise trips to Snow Hill and revolutionised North Pole tours, so they’re always looking for what’s next in the world of polar voyages.

Quark has an impeccable safety record and has a fleet of ice-class vessels, including the new, luxurious MV Ultramarine , which allows them to execute really unique itineraries.

All of their ships have under 200 passengers too, meeting IAATO regulations for number of people off the ship at any one time.

After lots of research, personal testing, and fielding quite a few (better) offers from competitors, we decided that Quark Expeditions is the company we trust to operate our own group tours to Antarctica.

EXCLUSIVE – We have partnered with the world’s top polar tour operator, Quark Expeditions, to offer readers of NOMADasaurus a very special deal on any trip to Antarctica or the Arctic! Contact us ( [email protected] ) if you’d like to learn more about this exclusive Quark Expeditions discount.

Australian enterprise Aurora Expeditions has carved a niche for itself in the realm of polar travel for being a bit more adventurous than the rest, without compromising safety.

Their focus leans towards a genuine and immersive experience rather than mere sightseeing, with activities such as snorkelling, scuba diving and stand-up paddleboarding available to purchase.

Aurora has a small fleet of luxury ships and a fantastic team of seasoned expedition guides, so travellers are in good hands.

They are also B Corp certified , a testament to their commitment to sustainability.

“Our pioneering spirit leads us to explore rarely visited locations and introduce unique itineraries for every season,” Hayley Peacock-Gower tells us, who is the Chief Marketing Officer of Aurora Expeditions.

“We pride ourselves on innovation and pushing the boundaries of discovery to provide unique, immersive experiences for our expeditioners while maintaining a light footprint.

“We’re constantly seeking new places to explore while on a voyage and want to share these findings with our expeditioners, so we’re comfortable adjusting our schedule to make the most of unexpected wildlife or scenic displays.”

In 2025 Aurora Expeditions will also be welcoming the brand new, 154pax X-BOW vessel, the Douglas Mawson, to their fleet, which will prove to be one of the most capable, luxury ships in the industry.

Their trips however are on the pricier side, which is something to consider. In our opinion though the quality product that you receive with Aurora is worth the price, and they are known in the industry for being one of the top operators.

For those seeking a thoughtful and authentic polar journey, Aurora Expeditions is a good choice.

One of the most famous names in polar travel, Hurtigruten , hailing from Norway and originally started as a ferry company, offers excellent budget-friendly trips to the Antarctic and Arctic.

Their itineraries are fantastic and the service for guests is excellent. They also have an excellent onboard science program.

However , their ships are very large, with between 250 and 500 passengers on each trip, meaning your actual time spent off the ship is limited.

If price is a major factor for you they are a good option and they do have a great product, but the size of their ships is something to consider. Remember, in Antarctica, bigger isn’t better.

Intrepid is famous around the world for organising amazing small group tours around the world, and as of recently have now moved into the polar regions.

They operate a large, older ship, the Ocean Endeavour, but limit passengers to 199 to skate under the 200 pax limit.

Their trips attract a younger demographic and a lower price point, but they’ve worked hard to secure some of the best expedition team members in the industry.

Jarryd travelled with Intrepid this year as an expedition photographer in partnership with Sony Australia, and absolutely loved their service.

The average age onboard an Intrepid trip is around 45, so it’s an entirely different atmosphere compared to something like Ponant or Lindblad that has an older average age.

Neither is better or worse, just something to consider based on your own style.

Scenic is an old hand in the luxury river cruise industry, they have since branched out into polar tours and are doing an amazing job at it with their beautiful ships and brilliant expedition team.

They have some pretty unique offerings, including a submarine that you can book for seeing Antarctica beneath the surface, and really fun activities.

Many of our expedition guide friends are now working at Scenic as well, and we can vouch for just how good they all are.

Of course that’s just scratching the surface and there is plenty of other operators out there. These are some others worth considering:

• Islands and Ice – Small tour company run by the legendary expedition leader David Sinclair, chartering the MV Polar Pioneer for adventurous trips of less than 50 people.
• Ponant – Uber-luxurious cruise operator. If you like your icebergs with a side of caviar underneath a chandelier, this is the company to go with.
• G Adventures – Similar to Intrepid in that they focus primarily on small group trips in other parts of the world, but their Antarctic product is quite good.
• Oceanwide Expeditions – Small groups with under 100 passengers, operating some cool itineraries.
• Albatros Expeditions – Nice, sustainable operator with great ships and decent expedition team.

Ship Size Matters on Antarctica Cruises

You might be tempted to book a tour onboard a larger cruise ship for a number of reasons.

More space and amenities, cheaper price, familiarity with a particular company such as Carnival, etc.

But trust us when we say bigger is not bigger in Antarctica!

IAATO , the body that regulates tourism in Antarctica, has strict rules around the number of passengers from any one ship that can leave the vessel at any one time.

• Less than 100 passengers – Everybody can leave the ship at the same time and step foot on the continent at the same time
• Between 101-200 passengers – Everybody can leave the ship at the same time, but only 100 people can step foot on the continent at any one time, so the rest of the guests will often do a zodiac cruise
• Between 201-500 passengers – Only 200 people can leave the ship at any one time, so 100 maximum people will land on shore, 100 people maximum will go on a zodiac cruise and the rest waits on the ship for a group to come back.
• More than 501 passengers – Nobody leaves the ship at all.

So as you can see if you are booking a trip to Antarctica on a large ship, you run the risk of not even getting off the ship.

You don’t really want to spend all that money just to get down there and look at the continent from your balcony.

For that reason we don’t recommend booking a trip on a vessel that carries any more than 200 people total, and ideally less than 100 people if you can find one.

Let us say that again;

DO NOT BOOK A TRIP WITH MORE THAN 200 PASSENGERS!

Besides that, there’s other considerations when it comes to ship size and choosing the best Antarctica expedition.

Smaller ships have much better manoeuvrability, which allows them to navigate through narrow channels and into tight bays to allow you to access Antarctica close up.

A smaller ship often means a shallower draft too, so they can get into some areas that may not be deep enough for larger vessels.

This might not be something you think about, but when you book a smaller ship you have a greater sense of intimacy with your fellow guests and expedition team.

There is often just the one dining room and one, maybe two, lounges to relax in. That means everybody congregates in the same areas and it doesn’t take long to start getting to know everybody.

The larger ships can feel like a labyrinth, and we’ve heard of people going entire expeditions and not ever finding the library for example.

Personally, we prefer smaller ships.

How Much is a Cruise to Antarctica?

Heading off on an Antarctic adventure is both a dream and a significant financial undertaking.

With such a wide variety of cruise options, ranging from small, older vessels to high-end luxury ships, it can be hard to determine what is worth spending your money on.

At the budget-friendly end, less extravagant ships may lack the luxurious amenities, but they often deliver an authentic, intimate connection with the Antarctic wilderness.

These ships focus on the adventure and Antarctica expedition with an authentic flare, where you feel encouraged to be out on deck or in the lounge areas when you’re onboard rather than sprawled out in your cabin.

On the other hand, luxury cruises offer plush accommodations, gourmet dining, spa services, and even onboard entertainment.

Some of them even have helicopters and submarines onboard, opening up a whole new world that isn’t possible with other operators.

While these amenities come at a premium, it ensures an unparalleled level of comfort amidst a wild Antarctic backdrop.

Essentially, you get what you pay for when it comes to the ship; the more you pay, the nicer the onboard experience.

So how much should you expect to pay for a cruise to Antarctica?

On average, USD$10,000 per person for the standard itinerary, and around USD$18,000 for a trip that includes the Falkland Islands and South Georgia.

Of course you can sometimes find trips for as long as USD$5,000 per person if you book it super last minute on a special deal, and ones as expensive as USD$50,000 or more.

However when you look at the individual itineraries for different operators, you might notice something interesting…

They are often the exact same, whether you’re playing $8,000 or $20,000.

A typical 10-day ‘Best of Antarctica’ itinerary, which actually only includes 4.5 days in Antarctica, has the same number of days and excursions on the continent, often doing the same thing (zodiac cruises, landings, ship exploring, etc).

Adventure activities, such as kayaking, stand-up paddle-boarding and camping, usually have an additional cost no matter which company you’re with too.

So really, in most situations you’re paying more money for a nicer ship and cabin.

There are exceptions of course, especially if your ship has helicopters.

But if the company you’re looking at doesn’t have any obvious benefits such as helicopters or more days at sea, most of the price increase is for better food and nicer rooms.

Is that worth it the difference in cost?

That’s a question only you can answer.

Either way, it’s paramount to really look into what’s included in your package. Some voyages may seem very cheap upfront but then charge extra for essentials like shore excursions, gear rentals, or even certain onboard facilities.

All of the operators we recommend though include daily excursions, all meals and gear rental included, regardless of price and itinerary.

And if you have some flexibility in your travel plans, there’s a big potential to lock in some remarkable last-minute deals.

Subscribe to the newsletters of Antarctic cruise operators or follow their social media channels to see what’s available.

Or get in touch with us for the best price possible with our current favourite operator, Quark Expeditions, even better than what they advertise to the public.

How Long Should You Book to Visit Antarctica?

The length of Antarctica cruises vary quite a bit, with options ranging from a week right up to an entire month.

The length of your voyage determines not only how much of Antarctica you get to explore but also how much time you spend on the open sea versus the continent itself.

The sweet spot is the classic 11-day itineraries, which just visits the Peninsula, but let us break down the general ones you’ll find.

One thing to keep in mind though is that the length of time the companies advertise is not how much time you get to spend in Antarctica.

For example an 11-day itinerary often means just 4-5 days in Antarctica, and the rest of the time is spent before the trip in Buenos Aires or Ushuaia and the two days each way on the Drake.

Misleading? Perhaps. But that’s just what it is.

For those that are on a super tight schedule or really, really don’t want to cross the Drake, you can fly down to join your cruise to Antarctica.

You’ll usually have one full day in Punta Arenas, Chile, then schedule to fly to King George Island the next day. Then you’ll have 4 days on the ship, before flying back for another night in Punta Arenas.

This is the trip most people do.

You’ll meet your group in Ushuaia on the first day, then jump on the ship the next day (or start in Buenos Aires and take a charter flight the next morning).

After that it’s two days sailing across the Drake Passage, 4 days to explore Antarctica, then two days back to Ushuaia.

You wake up in Ushuaia and the trip either ends there for you, or you jump on a charter flight back to Buenos Aires.

Essentially the same structure as above, but you’ll have an extra couple of days to travel the distance required to hopefully cross the Antarctic Circle, or sail around to the east side of the Peninsula to get into the Weddell Sea and maybe see the emperor penguins.

Our personal favourite length, as it ticks off all the major highlights.

Starting in Buenos Aires or Ushuaia, you then have one sea day to make it to Falkland Islands, then usually have two days exploring around the British archipelago.

Then it’s two more days at sea to get to South Georgia, with 3 to 4 days spent visiting the most spectacular place on earth.

You’ll then have a massive three sea days to get to the Peninsula for your 4 days hanging around here.

Then back across the Drake you go.

As above, but with a few extra days to cross the Antarctic Circle.

Basically the ultimate Antarctica trip.

If you have a month up your sleeve you can either take the historic Ross Sea trips from New Zealand or Tasmania, or be a real adventurer and jump on tall ship to sail down to Antarctica.

Activities and Excursions on Antarctica Trips

When you’re heading down to the Antarctic region on an expedition cruise ship there’s quite a few activities that you can do.

Some are included in the price for everybody, and others have limited availability for an additional cost.

Here’s what you can expect for what to do in Antarctica :

There are no ports in Antarctica that allows for a ship to dock, so the only way to get off the ship and explore land is on a small, inflatable boat called a Zodiac.

Zodiacs not only allow you to step food on land, but they also let you get up close to icebergs, glaciers, and wildlife.

Zodiac cruises offer an intimate and immersive experience, allowing passengers to navigate through stunning icy waterways.

The frequent Zodiac landings, integral to most Antarctic cruises, transport passengers from the ship to the very heart of the continent.

Setting foot on the Antarctic mainland, or one of its many islands, is an indescribable moment.

Zodiac excursions are included in most small ship cruises.

Once you’ve used a zodiac to get to shore you have a few other included activities – landings and hiking.

You can wander around a predetermined path, set out by the expedition guides, to visit research stations and viewpoints, or get closer to penguin colonies.

Any decent company, like the ones we recommend above, will also have daily onboard seminars from guides, scientists, biologists and historians to share information about the continent.

They fill the sea days and evenings, and you shouldn’t miss any.

If you want the ultimate bragging rights after your trip to Antarctica make sure you don’t miss the polar plunge.

What is it? Well, it’s going for a swim in Antarctica, of course.

You wander down the gangway, strap a harness and rope to you, and literally jump off a perfectly good (and warm) ship into the icy water.

It’s included in most trips, weather permitting, and you’ll get to come home with some cool photos to prove you did it.

Of course Antarctic wildlife watching is always free and included in your trip.

Some of the animals you could see are many penguin species such as gentoos, adélie penguins, Magellanic penguins, rockhoppers, chinstraps, king penguins, emperors (if you’re super lucky) and macaronis.

You can see lots of whales too such as humpback whales, minke whales and orca (killer whales), and occasionally blue or southern right whales in the Southern Ocean.

Sea birds also make part of the abundant wildlife, with albatross, skuas, petrels and terns commonly found.

And if you like seals in their natural habitat, there’s southern elephant seals, weddell seals, ross seals, leopard seals, crabeater seals and Antarctic fur seals.

Sorry, there’s polar bears down here. You’re thinking of the Arctic.

Optional Activities on your Antarctic Cruises

While almost all Antarctic cruises offer shore landings and Zodiac cruises as standard, there’s a whole bunch of optional activities for those eager to try something different down in the continent.

If you’re ready to step up the adventure, here’s a guide on what’s on offer and how to ensure you don’t miss out.

Gliding silently through the icy waters, kayakers get an intimate perspective of Antarctica’s coastlines.

As icebergs loom majestically overhead and seals laze on floating ice, you can navigate through a surreal world rarely experienced by others.

When you book a sea kayaking package you are given a dry suit and instruction from your experienced guides, and the goal is to get out as much as possible during your itinerary.

Most expedition ships that offer kayaking in Antarctica have a limited number of kayaks, so early reservation is crucial.

It’s also only suited for those with some prior sea kayaking experience.

If you love the idea of kayaking but don’t want to do it every single day on your trip, many companies now offer what’s called ‘day paddle excursions’, where you sign up for a once-off and jump in an inflatable kayak for an hour or two.

It’s absolutely beautiful and is perfect for those that just want to try it once.

Imagine sleeping under the Antarctic sky , surrounded by snow and ice, with the distant calls of penguins lulling you to sleep.

Sounds majestic doesn’t it?

Truth is it’s not comfortable at all, most people get anxious about it and there’s the fear of being too cold to sleep, but we’ll let you in on a little secret – Camping in Antarctica is nowhere near as bad as it sounds and is the ultimate experience.

You are given strict instructions on how it works and will be given your own bivvy sack to sleep in (not a tent), which is rated to the temperatures down there so you won’t freeze.

Given the stringent environmental regulations and the limited gear available, only a few spots are open per cruise. Book in advance.

If you’re a hardcore mountaineer or experienced rock climber there are a number of small expedition companies that offer these activities on certain itineraries.

With the guidance of expert mountaineers, you can ascend icy peaks or navigate glacial routes for an epic bucket list adventure.

You must be an experienced climber, and be able to prove it, before a company will accept your booking for these challenging adventures.

A couple of companies now also offer skiing and snowboarding trips to Antarctica.

As above, you need to prove you have backcountry skiing/snowboarding experience, all the right gear and avalanche rescue training before you can sign up.

Fancy doing a bit of scuba diving in Antarctica? Well you can…on the condition that you have the right tickets and experience.

Diving in Antarctica is a very unique experience where you can see marine mammals, krill and ice, but it does require advanced PADI certification, ice-diving certs and at least 20 logged ice dives.

There’s also only a couple of companies that are equipped for this and it’s quite expensive.

While most ships have an expedition photographer onboard whose job it is to document the entire trip, providing the images and videos to the guests at the end, most companies don’t have dedicated photography workshops.

There are some exceptions, Intrepid being a notable one who Jarryd worked with as a photography guide this year, where you join a small group of people to get daily workshops on photography techniques, camera settings, composition, creativity, editing and more.

For those who wish to contribute to our understanding of this remote region, some companies collaborate with research institutions to allow passengers to participate in data collection and other scientific activities.

Details are often available in cruise itineraries, and early registration ensures you’re part of these enriching experiences.

Finally, remember that it’s a privilege to visit Antarctica and you should always make sure you do so responsibly .

Only every book a trip with a company that is registered of IAATO, which is an official organisation that designates Antarctica purely for the purpose of science and research.

Newer ships produce less emissions and are more fuel efficient, so consider spending a little bit more money for a ship that wasn’t built in the 80s.

Protect the unique wildlife, stunning environment and exploration history of one of the world’s most spectacular places by selecting a reputable company to travel with, like the ones we recommended in this article.

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I'm going to do this in pieces. Here is Part 1:

I believe I've covered most of this in various other threads here, but I'll try to put together a trip report of sorts here:

Tuesday, Feb 6: Took a taxi (booked and paid at counter in the Ground Transportation area at the airport) from the curb to the hotel. They get your receipt and that's the whole transaction. Hotel was the San Cristobel Tower, which is attached to the Sheraton Santiago. Hotel gave us early check-in (we were there around noon) which was great, we got clean clothes on and signed up in the lobby for a Hop On Hop Off tour of the city, which had a stop at the hotel.

We did a complete loop of the city (very pretty, but nothing amazing -- we quickly learned why everyone told us to go to Valparaiso), then stayed on a couple extra stops to the Bellavista neighborhood where we had a very late lunch and did a little shopping. We walked back to the hotel -- looked pretty close but was uphill and about 1.5 miles on little sleep, but we made it back without issue.

Wednesday, Feb 7: We had booked a private tour to Vina Del Mar and Valparaiso through the hotel. Driver picked us up around 9AM, and took us through Santiago, pointing out things we had missed the prior day. Asked us if we wanted to stop at a winery but we had done Napa in California last year so we passed on that. Took about 2 hours to get to the coast and we drove around Vina del Mar up the coast for awhile, stopping for a look at the Sea Lions and birds and beautiful homes and exploring the hills as well. Then over to Valparaiso where our driver had an amazing knowledge of all the winding roads. Spectacular views from some of the lookouts. We enjoyed the outside areas at the museum for Pablo Neruda, and all of the amazing street art. Took a funicular down to a big square around sealevel, then had a late lunch at a very good seafood restaurant Portofino) and then back to the hotel, where we learned we had a 5AM bus the next morning to the airport

Thursday, Feb 8: Up early to find pastries in the lobby and buses lined up to take us to the airport. About 150 of us boarded a LATAM plane headed to Ushuaia. 3x3 seating with very little leg room. Spectacular views out the window as we got further south. and landed at the tiny Ushuaia airport. Long line to go thru immigration but it did keep moving and there were Silversea reps in the airport to help us along as there had been at the Santiago airport. We all got on buses at the airport and could see the folks from the prior trip on the Cloud sitting in the departure lounge, waiting to go home. Buses took us to the Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa for a really nice buffet lunch and they also provided a 45-60 minute hike in the nearby woods for amazing views of the area. Then buses took us to the ship for the cruise we'd been looking forward to for nearly a year.

And here's Part 2 (aka "the rest . . . of the story")

We had a very nice standard cabin on deck 5 with a balcony. All cabins are "suites", this one had the bed near the door, then there was a retractable curtain past the bed the separated the sleeping area from a couch, 2 comfortable chairs, a small table that folded out into a larger table and a large desk. The fridge was in the desk and had room for a few full sized bottles of water and wine, as well as a half dozen or so cans of soda. Tons of storage areas in the cabins and more than enough hangers for all our clothes. Bathroom was good sized with a shower with a clever door that wouldn't BANG shut during periods of rough seas. Would have liked a little more room for storage in the bathroom, though.

After the lifeboat drill we set sail east and south thru the Beagle channel. Saw lots of interesting birds and a few humpback whales as we headed towards the Drake Passage. We had dinner that night outside at The Grill, near the pool, where they bring you your entree raw and you cook it on a hot lava stone ("5000 degrees", I think they said). Had a great ribeye and prawns, she enjoyed her fish. It was chilly but we wore jackets and they had plenty of blankets, and a big bib to protect your clothes.

Friday, Feb 9 was spend getting to know the shop and crossing the Drake Passage. Passage wasn't too rough and we had a chance to find out how the onshore activities would be organized and to find where on the racks in the "mud room" our boots would be stored. We also had two sightings of Orca pods that day. We had an evening briefing telling us about the plans for . . .

Saturday, Feb 10: Welcome to Antarctica! We had made it across the passage and we were going to be on the ice tha day in Barientos Island! Our group (the 200 passengers were split into 4 groups of 50) had about 90 minutes on the island, with tons of penguins, both Gentoos and Chinstraps. As it was well into February the chicks were pretty big by now, but still you could identify them by their more gray colored feathers and they were generally shorter than the adults, but chubbier, as all they did was eat and chase their parents around begging for more food!

Sunday, Feb 11: We had two stops this day, first at Brown Bluff. No longer on an island, we were on the mainland of Antarctica and we were surrounded by Adelie Penguins. Holy moley, but these guys are crazy! One of them would start running down the beach and the rest would follow him/her because they must have known something important was going on. And then that same penguin would run the other way with all of them following. Definitely our favorites. The penguin chicks were molting and the feathers on top of their heads are last to go, so many of these penguins had real "rock star hairdo". Hilarious. Later that day we did a Zodiac Tour of Kinnes Cove where we watched penguins and seals at work and at play. We dodged amazing icebergs and saw whales in the distance.

Monday, Feb 12: Two more stops this day, first a landing at Mikkelson Harbor, where we learned about Penguin Highways, and saw the remnants of an old wooden whaling boat, and the bones of a very long dead whale on shore. We both tested out our boots that day and found that even shin deep in the Southern ocean our feet were warm and they were dry. In the afternoon we had a Zodiac tour of Cierva Cove. There was tons of sea ice, both big bergs and just small surface ice -- going through that was amazing. You really felt isolated in your Zodiac there, and we constantly saw seals and penguins on all the ice and small spits of land we passed

Tuesday, Feb 13: Two stops that day, first we went ashore on the glaciers at Portal Point where we saw, yep, more penguins and seals, and then a zodiac tour of Foyn Harbor where we explored an old sunken whaling ship that had two sailboats tied to it. Each of those boats had about a dozen passengers who had sailed these little (50 foot?) boats across the Drake Passage and were now exploring the same places that we were. Had another meal outdoors at the Grill. Full parka and hat for this meal as temps were about freezing (had been closer to 50 on our first night).

Wednesday, Feb 14: One stop today, followed by scenic cruising. First at Gonzalez Videla Station, in Paradise Bay, where among thousands of Gentoo penguins is a Chilean Naval base (they have 2 Zodiacs at their disposal!) with multiple buildings. They are well set up to receive visitors, and we got a nice tour of their living and working quarters. There's a small museum and a gift shop where you can buy postcards, t-shirts, hats, and mugs, and you can mail a postcard (for only $5, cash only!). It's nearly 6 weeks later and that postcard hasn't come yet . . . but the folks there were very friendly and it was a great stop. After the stop at the base we headed as far south as we would get (as expected we did not get very close to the Antarctic Circle) sailing through the beautiful Lemaire Channel. Until we got there we were unsure if we could transit the channel as it is narrow and often ice-choked, but we did get to pass through it (twice as we turned around and headed back north) and they opened up the bow of the ship for passengers to watch from. After we exited the Lemaire Channel we passed through the Neumayer Channel, another beautiful bit of sailing.

Thursday, Feb 15: Our final day in Antarctica saw us make two stops at Deception Island. The first was Telefon Bay, where we climbed to the edge of two calderas (not to worry, it had been a few years since either erupted) and then to Pendulum Bay, where are Polar Plunge was to take place. You could see smoke rising from the sand and we were warned to keep socks on so as to not burn our feet on the hot sand. The sand might have been hot, but the water wasn't, but my wife did the plunge while I was "Official Photographer and Next of Kin". She earned a very nice certificate of accomplishment for her deed and off we were back to Ushaia. We left a bit early as "a big storm in the Drake was coming"

Friday, Feb 16: Crossing the Drake Passage in Rough Seas. We hardly left our cabin this day. We could see the seas from our window and balcony and we had 15-20 foot seas and neither of us felt very well. There wasn't much going on on board so this was a rest day for us.

Sunday, Feb 18: Off the boat by 8AM or so, and a long and winding bus ride to the airport to avoid 200 folks all arriving at once to go through checking in and everything. Sitting in the departure lounge we saw the lucky folks going on the next cruise arriving and then we took the flight back to Santiago. Long layover in the airport there spent with new friends from our trip, then a long flight on United to Houston and a shorter one back home.

Amazing and epic trip.

Here's a link to 10 very short (under 25 seconds) videos we shot in Antarctica:

https://vimeo.com/antarcticexplorer

Thanks for the trip report!

It's always so nice to be given the chance to enjoy an extraordinary trip vicariously through others :-)

Hi, may I know what was total cost of your trip?

You can easily price the same trip for next season. Prices seem to be up about 20% or so.

All I'll say is it was Wicked Expensive

We would be flying across drake passage as I get seasick easily. Are the waters rough around Antarctica peninsula after you cross drakes? Thanks

Once we crossed the passage seas were calm, but we were in port or cruising one day in the Bransfield Strait and got hit by a big wave that knocked everything off of many surfaces, including breaking a large percentage of the ship's wineglasses

Can you tell me what boots you were wearing? I recently went to Helsinki and Iceland and had to buy uggs (as my boots bought in Australia, were not warm enough). The uggs are very warm with thick rubber soles but they are not waterproof. Regards Kim

I wore the boots the ship provided. Plenty warm, totally dry, and a good thick grippy sole kept me feeling very secure on slippery surfaces.

My wife bought a similar pair in advance as she found a good sale and needed new boots

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• Celebrity Cruises

Antarctica - is Elephant Island worth giving up 4 days of cruising the peninsula?

By Ken the cruiser , January 20, 2022 in Celebrity Cruises

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Ken the cruiser

We recently booked a B2B Antarctica cruise in Jan 2024 on the Eclipse, with each leg 14 days long. Here is the itinerary:

14 Nights Antarctica from Buenos Aires, Argentina | Celebrity Cruises

We're also waiting for Princess to release their Jan 2024 Antarctica cruises, hopefully any month now. Here is their 2023 itinerary:

Cruise Details - 16-Day Antarctica & Cape Horn - Princess Cruises

We went on a HAL Antarctica cruise back in Jan 2018 that included  4 full days cruising around the Antarctica peninsula and really enjoyed all of the wildlife we saw each day. OTOH, we noticed the Celebrity itinerary includes just 2 days  cruising around the Antarctica peninsula, with one focused on Elephant Island. However, their description gives you the feeling there is an Elephant Island excursion, maybe via zodiac?

Anyone ever cruise on this Celebrity itinerary offered every year who can possibly explain what they mean when the refer to " the truly adventurous " in the below description?

Check out the island's wildlife on your Antarctica cruise. The island is covered with elephant seals, hence the name Elephant Island. At Cape Lookout, a bluff on the southern coast where various penguins (chinstrap, gentoo, and macaroni) call home. Other birds of note include sheathbills, cape petrels, and stormy petrels; it's also a great place to spot the elephant seals and Antarctic fur seals. The truly adventurous can explore the moss colonies, which are thought to be thousands of years old. The moss bank is not terribly far from where the Shackleton party was marooned and is considered one of the oldest living things in the world. Your cruise to Antarctica will truly be an experience of a lifetime.

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• 2 yr Ken the cruiser changed the title to Antarctica - is Elephant Island worth giving up 4 days of cruising the peninsula?

FWIW, Port Stanley in The Falklands has  currently banned all cruise ships carrying more than 500 passengers. It is unknown whether the ban will be lifted in the future.

the penguins

1 hour ago, Ken the cruiser said: We recently booked a B2B Antarctica cruise in Jan 2024 on the Eclipse, with each leg 14 days long. Here is the itinerary:   14 Nights Antarctica from Buenos Aires, Argentina | Celebrity Cruises   We're also waiting for Princess to release their Jan 2024 Antarctica cruises, hopefully any month now. Here is their 2023 itinerary:   Cruise Details - 16-Day Antarctica & Cape Horn - Princess Cruises   We went on a HAL Antarctica cruise back in Jan 2018 that included  4 full days cruising around the Antarctica peninsula and really enjoyed all of the wildlife we saw each day. OTOH, we noticed the Celebrity itinerary includes just 2 days  cruising around the Antarctica peninsula, with one focused on Elephant Island. However, their description gives you the feeling there is an Elephant Island excursion, maybe via zodiac?   Anyone ever cruise on this Celebrity itinerary offered every year who can possibly explain what they mean when the refer to " the truly adventurous " in the below description?   Check out the island's wildlife on your Antarctica cruise. The island is covered with elephant seals, hence the name Elephant Island. At Cape Lookout, a bluff on the southern coast where various penguins (chinstrap, gentoo, and macaroni) call home. Other birds of note include sheathbills, cape petrels, and stormy petrels; it's also a great place to spot the elephant seals and Antarctic fur seals. The truly adventurous can explore the moss colonies, which are thought to be thousands of years old. The moss bank is not terribly far from where the Shackleton party was marooned and is considered one of the oldest living things in the world. Your cruise to Antarctica will truly be an experience of a lifetime.  

We have been twice once on Celebrity and once on Hurtigruten. The Celebrity experience is good but it is basically "sightseeing". Hurtigruten is the real expedition experience and nothing compares with landing and walking amongst the wildlife. That said if it has to be Celebrity or another traditional cruise ship go for the one that gives the longest time on the peninsular.

21 minutes ago, the penguins said: We have been twice once on Celebrity and once on Hurtigruten. The Celebrity experience is good but it is basically "sightseeing". Hurtigruten is the real expedition experience and nothing compares with landing and walking amongst the wildlife. That said if it has to be Celebrity or another traditional cruise ship go for the one that gives the longest time on the peninsular.

Thanks! I had a feeling it was just a drive by. But, you're right about expedition cruises. There's nothing better than walking amongst the wildlife. I guess we'll just have to book the appropriate Falkland Island excursions (if it has opened up by 2024) as well as those available when we stop at the southern Argentina and Chile ports if we book the Princess cruise.  😎

1 hour ago, Ken the cruiser said: However, their description gives you the feeling there is an Elephant Island excursion, maybe via zodiac?

Has anyone ever seen a Zodiac on the Eclipse (or any S-class ship for that matter)?  😉

Seriously, in terms of the question you raised about Celebrity and Elephant Island, it would be very interesting to know the answer.  Have you called Celebrity to ask?

Ken, I haven't priced out your B2B cruises, but with 28 days, I'm sure they aren't cheap.  I know an expedition cruise would be more expensive, but have you looked into it?  You've already done the drive-by.   Second time around,  in terms of Antarctica, you'd get so much more out of an expedition cruise (even though it would be shorter than your B2Bs).   I do of course realize it's not something everyone can swing, but I raise it here given the expense of 28 days on Celebrity.

Just for fun:

(photo by turtles06)

54 minutes ago, Ken the cruiser said: Thanks! I had a feeling it was just a drive by. But, you're right about expedition cruises. There's nothing better than walking amongst the wildlife. I guess we'll just have to book the appropriate Falkland Island excursions (if it has opened up by 2024) as well as those available when we stop at the southern Argentina and Chile ports if we book the Princess cruise.  😎

Our Roll Call name is another clue.

If you have the time and the budget a cruise that includes, The Peninsular, South Georgia (home of 100,000 King Penguins) with stops at Carcuss Island, New Island and West Point in the Falklands plus Stanley gives you the perfect mix. Geoff

1 hour ago, Turtles06 said:   Has anyone ever seen a Zodiac on the Eclipse (or any S-class ship for that matter)?  😉   Seriously, in terms of the question you raised about Celebrity and Elephant Island, it would be very interesting to know the answer.  Have you called Celebrity to ask?   Ken, I haven't priced out your B2B cruises, but with 28 days, I'm sure they aren't cheap.  I know an expedition cruise would be more expensive, but have you looked into it?  You've already done the drive-by.   Second time around,  in terms of Antarctica, you'd get so much more out of an expedition cruise (even though it would be shorter than your B2Bs).   I do of course realize it's not something everyone can swing, but I raise it here given the expense of 28 days on Celebrity.   Just for fun:     (photo by turtles06)

We actually had a 24 day Seabourn Quest expedition cruise booked for Nov 2021, which included South Georgia Island, that of course got cancelled. The main reason we booked that cruise was because we got a balcony cabin for around $900 pp/day. However, with the current expedition cruises running around $1,600+ pp/day for 11-13 day cruises out of Ushuaia, that's just too far out of our comfort zone. So I guess drive-by cruises will have to do, as there is just too much scenic beauty as well as wildlife to see around the Antarctica Peninsula for us not to go back again. But not to worry, there are plenty of Falkland Island as well as southern Argentina and Chile port excursions to keep us knee deep in penguins, so to speak.  😎

2 hours ago, Ken the cruiser said: We actually had a 24 day Seabourn Quest expedition cruise booked for Nov 2021, which included South Georgia Island, that of course got cancelled. The main reason we booked that cruise was because we got a balcony cabin for around $900 pp/day. However, with the current expedition cruises running around $1,600+ pp/day for 11-13 day cruises out of Ushuaia, that's just too far out of our comfort zone. So I guess drive-by cruises will have to do, as there is just too much scenic beauty as well as wildlife to see around the Antarctica Peninsula for us not to go back again. But not to worry, there are plenty of Falkland Island as well as southern Argentina and Chile port excursions to keep us knee deep in penguins, so to speak.  😎  

Hurtigruten on the Fram have had prices well below especially if you book early. Also consider the dates/seasons basically 3 choices:

1) early i.e November/December more snow so landings more difficult, lots of baby penguins and seals, good chance of seeing whales.

2) late : Feb/ March: less snow landings are easier, no baby penguins or seals, very little chance of seeing whales.

King Penguins breed all year so you will everything from eggs to adults on any dates.

3) Christmas and New Year: great for millionaires.

Gorgeous photos, the penguins!

8 hours ago, sunpsyche said: Gorgeous photos, the penguins!

Thanks, all taken by the boss (Anita) except the one where you can see her standing with the King Penguins. Geoff.

Just our opinion, but if you go to Antarctica you should do an expedition and get off the ship!  It was the trip of a lifetime for us!  Pick a line that does expedition cruising and set foot on the continent 🐧  

24 minutes ago, 81Zoomie said: Just our opinion, but if you go to Antarctica you should do an expedition and get off the ship!  It was the trip of a lifetime for us!  Pick a line that does expedition cruising and set foot on the continent 🐧  

I totally agree. But for those who can only afford a “drive by” cruise, go! Both the scenary as well as the abundant wildlife you’ll see is simply too awesome to miss if at all possible!! 😎

27 minutes ago, Ken the cruiser said: I totally agree. But for those who can only afford a “drive by” cruise, go! Both the scenary as well as the abundant wildlife you’ll see is simply too awesome to miss if at all possible!! 😎  

Except now the drive by cruises are further north and not even long the penninsula.

39 minutes ago, smbt1 said: Except now the drive by cruises are further north and not even long the penninsula.

That’s not what we’re seeing when we look at the Jan 2023 Princess itinerary.

https://www.princess.com/search-cruise/details/?voyageCode=H302  

Arizona Wildcat

2 minutes ago, Ken the cruiser said: That’s not what we’re seeing when we look at the Jan 2023 Princess itinerary.   https://www.princess.com/search-cruise/details/?voyageCode=H302  

Ken - have done Celebrity and Nat Geo to Antarctica.  The cruising routes are really very similar for Princess and Celebrity.  No landings on Antarctica with either line.  Only small explorer ships allowed on shore.

The variable is the weather.  On the Infinity we sat near the coast and cruised slowly for almost 2 days.  Ocean was smooth as glass.  Flatlands were magnificent.   We organized a private tour to see the penguins.  Saw lots of sealife. 

The NatGeo ship out of Ushuaia hit bad weather 2nd day out.  50' waves ended the cruise.

Thus it is a crap shoot.  Was told 2/3 of cruises that year could not tender in to the Falklands.

51 minutes ago, Arizona Wildcat said: Ken - have done Celebrity and Nat Geo to Antarctica.  The cruising routes are really very similar for Princess and Celebrity.  No landings on Antarctica with either line.  Only small explorer ships allowed on shore. The variable is the weather.  On the Infinity we sat near the coast and cruised slowly for almost 2 days.  Ocean was smooth as glass.  Flatlands were magnificent.   We organized a private tour to see the penguins.  Saw lots of sealife.  The NatGeo ship out of Ushuaia hit bad weather 2nd day out.  50' waves ended the cruise. Thus it is a crap shoot.  Was told 2/3 of cruises that year could not tender in to the Falklands.

You’re definitely right about the weather and we were also lucky on our first Antarctica cruise as the waters were smooth and the sky clear the whole time we were there. The only rough part was crossing the waterway between South America and the Peninsula. Those were quite rough, especially during the overnight hours!

However, when we were on our HAL 22 day Zaandam cruise in Jan 2018, we cruised roughly the same route over a 4 day period you see in the above Princess itinerary diagram. What’s also interesting is that we originally had the Celebrity 14 day cruise booked, with the same 2 days cruising around Antarctica like the one the Eclipse is advertising, until we cancelled and booked the HAL cruise. But, that was then. That’s why we booked the 2024 Eclipse B2B, but are waiting to see what Princess offers when they eventually post their 2024 itineraries.

8 minutes ago, Ken the cruiser said: You’re definitely right about the weather and we were also lucky on our first Antarctica cruise as the waters were smooth and the sky clear the whole time we were there. The only rough part was crossing the waterway between South America and the Peninsula. Those were quite rough, especially during the overnight hours! However, when we were on our HAL 22 day Zaandam cruise in Jan 2018, we cruised roughly the same route over a 4 day period you see in the above Princess itinerary diagram. What’s also interesting is that we originally had the Celebrity 14 day cruise booked, with the same 2 days cruising around Antarctica like the one the Eclipse is advertising, until we cancelled and booked the HAL cruise. But, that was then. That’s why we booked the 2024 Eclipse B2B, but are waiting to see what Princess offers when they eventually post their 2024 itineraries.  

What also will be interesting is what will happen at Port Stanley.  Will they open to tendering?

The other question is the agreement restricting cruise ships to both fewer and smaller ships.  A bit of research might assist you in determining the likelihood of cruising on a particular ship.

1 hour ago, Ken the cruiser said: That’s not what we’re seeing when we look at the Jan 2023 Princess itinerary.   https://www.princess.com/search-cruise/details/?voyageCode=H302  

Except Princess does not have a cruise there this year.

NCL was the first to change their itinerary since they had antarctic cruises this spring 

Now from your post Celebrity, who a couple of weeks ago still had the old description  now have the non penninsula description.

I expect Princess and Hal to also update theirs in the same way when their cruise dates gets closer.

All of them face the same restrictions with the revised Polar code.

4 minutes ago, Arizona Wildcat said: What also will be interesting is what will happen at Port Stanley.  Will they open to tendering? The other question is the agreement restricting cruise ships to both fewer and smaller ships.  A bit of research might assist you in determining the likelihood of cruising on a particular ship.

True on both. But there is plenty of time between now and Jan 2024 for the pandemic to hopefully disappear in the rearview mirror for Port Stanley to hopefully reopen their port to larger ships.

With regards to the Polar Ice Class 6 specifications, Jan 1, 2022 is also now in the rearview mirror, so we’ll just have to wait as well to see what actually happens with the drive-by cruises currently on the books of a variety of cruise lines, such as Azamara, HAL, Celebrity, NCL and Princess as well as probably a few others.

1 minute ago, smbt1 said: Except Princess does not have a cruise there this year.   NCL was the first to change their itinerary since they had antarctic cruises this spring    Now from your post Celebrity, who a couple of weeks ago still had the old description  now have the non penninsula description.   I expect Princess and Hal to also update there's in the same way when their cruise dates gets closer.   All of them face the same restrictions with the revised Polar code.

The Princess cruise I’m referencing above is in Jan 2023. Has far as what Princess does between now and then, we’ll just have to wait and see.  

With regards to Celebrity, they’ve usually offered in recent years just 2 days in Antarctica with one day cruising around Elephant Island. This diagram is still posted with theirJan 2024 itinerary.

But, whatever happens, I am going to continue to remain hopeful drive-by cruises will continue in Antarctica waters around the peninsula that are known to remain ice free during the Dec-Feb timeframes the drive-by cruises are scheduled to sail.

8 hours ago, 81Zoomie said: Just our opinion, but if you go to Antarctica you should do an expedition and get off the ship!  It was the trip of a lifetime for us!  Pick a line that does expedition cruising and set foot on the continent 🐧  

All our pics are from our Hurtigruten (Fram) expedition.

All our drive by cruise pics are of icebergs - great pics but no wildlife. 

Weather is a gamble.

On Hurtigruten seas flat and smooth as glass.

On Celebrity (Infinity) 90 mph winds, 60 foot waves and the sea came in through the doors by the Sky Lounge. Couldn’t get in at Port Stanley. Geoff

Here are some pictures from our drive by on the Zaandam. They are not only from cruising around the Peninsula, where we also saw bunches of huge icebergs, but also from some of the other ports we stopped at in the Falkland Islands, Argentina and Chile. As you can see there were no shortage of wildlife on our cruise as well. 

16 hours ago, Ken the cruiser said: Here are some pictures from our drive by on the Zaandam. They are not only from cruising around the Peninsula, where we also saw bunches of huge icebergs, but also from some of the other ports we stopped at in the Falkland Islands, Argentina and Chile. As you can see there were no shortage of wildlife on our cruise as well.   

I wasn't implying we didn't see wildlife but most of your pics and indeed the ones used by Celebrity are from Chile and Argentina on an extra cost excursion. The King's are presumably from the Falklands on an excursion from Stanley. We enjoyed both trips and if health issues didn't prevent us doing the Fram itinerary again we would book tomorrow.

Did you do a blog of you Zaamdam cruise?  Would love the link.  Thanks.

2 hours ago, vickykay said: Ken,  Did you do a blog of you Zaandam cruise?  Would love the link.  Thanks.

Unfortunately not. However, I did create a video using some of the pictures we took if that would help.

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How to get to Antarctica: The pros and cons of flying vs. cruising

Planning a trip to Antarctica ? The first thing you need to do is decide on how you want to get there.

The vast majority of people who travel to the White Continent reach it on a cruise vessel that departs from South America .

Such trips typically start with a two-day crossing of the notoriously rough Drake Passage — the waterway between South America and Antarctica — followed by five or six days of exploring the coast of the continent and then a return trip across the Drake.

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But there's a second, less common way to go.

A handful of tour companies operate so-called "fly-cruise" trips to Antarctica that use hardy airplanes to fly tourists directly to the continent — no sailing across the Drake required.

On such trips, travelers still explore the coast of Antarctica by cruise vessel. But they don't board the vessel that will take them exploring until after they land on the continent.

Related: What it's like flying to Antarctica on a chartered plane

As I saw during a test of one of the fly-cruise trips this winter, it's a very different experience from the traditional sail-across-the-Drake trip to Antarctica (one of which I also did this winter — yeah, I'm a little obsessed with polar regions).

So which is the better way to go?

The short answer: There is no short answer. There are pros and cons to both, and the type of Antarctica trip that is right for you may not be the same as the type of Antarctica trip that is right for your neighbor. It will depend on several factors including your tolerance for rough seas, the time you have to travel and your budget.

Here, a look at some of the advantages and disadvantages of the two major ways to get to Antarctica.

The all-cruise option

As noted above, most travelers to Antarctica reach the continent on a cruise vessel that departs from South America — usually from Ushuaia, Argentina, or Puntas Arenas, Chile. Both are located at the very southern tip of South America. There also are a few cruise vessels that sail to Antarctica from Australia and New Zealand, though this is less common.

In most cases, such vessels are expedition cruise ships — small, hardy vessels with their own landing craft that are specifically designed to travel to remote, hard-to-reach places.

Related: The 11 best new expedition ships that go to Antarctica

In many cases, the voyages are operated by small companies that are specifically known for expedition cruising, including Lindblad Expeditions , Hurtigruten Expeditions , Quark Expeditions and Oceanwide Expeditions. But quite a few more-traditional cruise lines — including Silversea Cruises , Viking and Hapag-Lloyd Cruises — also operate expedition ships specifically built for travel to Antarctica and other polar regions.

Advantages of an all-cruise trip

The biggest advantage of an all-cruise trip to Antarctica is also, for some, its biggest disadvantage (more on this in a moment): It gets you into the Drake Passage.

As mentioned above, the Drake can be notoriously rough. Indeed, it's known as one of the roughest waterways in the world. It's not uncommon to encounter waves of 10 or 15 feet during a Drake crossing and, as I've experienced myself, the waves can be much higher.

That may sound like nothing but a disadvantage. But to many travelers — including me — crossing to Antarctica in such seas is an integral part of the experience of a trip there. It's part of understanding the remarkable history of Antarctic exploration, for sure, as it offers a taste of what the great Antarctic explorers such as Ernest Shackleton and Roald Amundsen had to endure in their epic journeys to the continent a century ago. It's also part of understanding the true remoteness of Antarctica, as the journey covers such a massive stretch of ocean.

Related: These 8 books are must-reads before an Antarctica trip

Bird-loving travelers who cross the Drake Passage by ship have the opportunity to see such remarkable bird species as the giant albatross, which you normally won't find in Antarctica.

In addition, the two days of crossing the Drake Passage at the start of an all-cruise Antarctica trip gives the guides on such trips a chance to prepare you for what you're about to see. Typically on such trips, specialists in such topics as Antarctica wildlife, geology and history will hold introductory lectures during the crossing that will help you put things in context upon arrival.

If nothing else, the two days provide a much-needed period of transition for travelers who have just left the frantic, crowded, modern world and soon will be thrust into a land of utter emptiness and wonder.

For some, braving a possibly rough trip across the Drake Passage is also a rite of passage. If you've gotten to Antarctica by ship across the Drake Passage, you've earned it.

Disadvantage of an all-cruise trip

As noted above, the biggest disadvantage of an all-cruise trip to Antarctica is the very same thing that some see as its biggest advantage: It gets you into the Drake — not just once, but twice.

Some people, including me, love cruising in big waves. It can be thrilling to experience the power of the ocean in all its force. But even those of us who love big waves have our limits. For someone who is prone to seasickness even in relatively calm seas, a transit through the Drake Passage can be a downright miserable experience.

Related: Discovering the wild dreamscape of Antarctica

Note that contrary to what you may hear, the Drake Passage isn't always fraught. While waves up to 25 or even 35 feet high at times are not uncommon, it can also be almost perfectly calm, a phenomenon known as the Drake Lake.

I experienced these calm conditions myself during my outbound crossing to Antarctica on a Lindblad Expeditions trip in January. On the way back, in contrast, we hit nearly 20-foot-high seas.

The 'fly-cruise' option

Fly-cruise tours to Antarctica typically start with a two-hour flight from Punta Arenas, Chile, to a Chilean research base on Antarctica's King George Island, thus skipping a ship crossing of the Drake Passage. The Presidente Eduardo Frei Montalva base, as it's known, has a gravel runway that is just long enough to handle some relatively small, hardy jets.

After landing at King George Island, passengers on fly-cruise trips walk to a nearby bay for a Zodiac boat transfer to an awaiting expedition cruise vessel. From there, they are quickly off on a five- or six-night exploration of the nearby Antarctic Peninsula and its environs.

At the end of the exploration, they fly back to Punta Arenas from the same base on King George Island at which they arrived.

Related: This new luxury tour gets you to Antarctica faster than most

The number of tour companies offering such trips is much more limited. They include Silversea Cruises (which just began such trips in December), Antarctica 21 and Quark Expeditions.

Such fly-cruise trips are still relatively rare. About 90% of travelers to Antarctica still arrive at the continent by ship.

Advantages of a fly-cruise trip

There are two big advantages to a fly-cruise trip to Antarctica. First, you get to skip the Drake Passage. As I already suggested above, that can be a very big deal to someone who is prone to seasickness. For people who are particularly sensitive to motion, flying there really is the only viable option for a trip to Antarctica, unless you want to risk being miserable for up to four days (don't forget you'll have to cross the Drake twice on an all-cruise trip).

For the record, these post-flight sailings don't entirely remove the possibility of experiencing rough seas. After leaving King George Island, expedition ships must cross the 60-mile-wide Bransfield Strait to reach the Antarctic Peninsula — and the strait is a body of water that can be choppy, as I saw for myself on the first night of my fly-cruise trip this past winter with Silversea. We hit seas around 10 feet high in the strait, leaving many passengers feeling queasy or worse.

Related: I just spent the night in an 'igloo' in Antarctica — here's how you can, too

But the good news is that the Bransfield Strait crossing is relatively quick. We entered it in the evening and were through it by wake-up time the next day. Once at the Antarctic Peninsula, the seas are relatively calm.

The second big advantage of fly-cruise trips to Antarctica is that they are shorter than what is typical for an Antarctica trip — something that should appeal to would-be Antarctica visitors who are limited in the number of days they can get away from work.

Antarctica trips that include ship crossings of the Drake Passage usually are at least 10 nights in length, not including the time it takes to get to and from the southern tip of South America. By cutting out the days crossing the Drake Passage, fly-cruise tour operators are able to offer an equal amount of time exploring Antarctica on a trip lasting just eight nights, including two nights in a Punta Arenas hotel — one before the flight to Antarctica and one afterward.

Disadvantages of a fly-cruise trip

The big knock on fly-cruise sailings to Antarctica over the years has been that there is a risk that poor weather at the landing site at King George Island could cause flights to and from the island to be delayed. The landings on the rough airstrip at the Chilean base require that pilots have a visual sighting of the runway.

Some companies, such as Silversea, have taken this into account in their itinerary planning. To allow for delays caused by shifting weather, Silversea has built a wide "weather window" for the charter flights to and from Antarctica into its itinerary. Silversea's trips begin and end with a night at a hotel in Punta Arenas, with downtime there built into the itinerary that creates a significant amount of wiggle room for when the flights can occur.

Related: I just went kayaking in Antarctica -- it was the most calm I've felt all year

If the weather is right, the flights to Antarctica will take place the morning after passengers arrive in Punta Arenas. But they can also shift earlier or later if the weather isn't cooperating. The flights back to Punta Arenas from King George Island can be similarly adjusted.

In addition, Silversea has booked extra nights at the hotel it uses in Punta Arenas, at its expense, just in case the flights are significantly delayed and passengers have to spend an extra night in Punta Arenas either on the way in or the way out, though such an occurrence would be rare.

I saw this weather-window strategy in action myself during my fly-cruise trip to Antarctica this past winter. The day before we were supposed to fly back from King George Island, a large storm front moved in over it with low-lying clouds and fierce winds. The storm not only made it difficult for the charter planes that were supposed to take us back to Chile to land at the island, but also made it difficult to operate the Zodiac boats that would be shuttling us from the ship to shore.

As per the plan, we arrived back at the bay at King George Island early and waited for a clearing in the weather that would allow our flights home to take place. Such a window finally appeared in the late evening of the last day of the trip. We took off for Chile at around 11 p.m., about nine hours later than we would have if the weather had been ideal.

Another possible downside to the fly-cruise trips to Antarctica is that they are typically more expensive, on a per-day basis, than all-cruise trips.

Related: The ultimate Antarctica packing guide

At Silversea, which offers both types of Antarctica trips, eight-night fly-cruise itineraries start at $16,600 per person, including flights — more than $2,000 per day.

Fares for Silversea's traditional Antarctica sailings that involve a crossing of the Drake Passage start at $11,900 per person, about 40% less.

In both cases, the fares above are highly-inclusive "door-to-door" pricing that comes with private executive transfers between your home and departure airport, international flights to South America and regional flights, airport transfers in South America, pre-cruise hotel stays, all shore tours, drinks and gratuities. Silversea also offers less expensive "port-to-port" pricing that strips out the international portion of the flights and transfers.

Bottom line

There's no right answer to the question of how to get to Antarctica, whether by ship or plane. I know which way I lean. I prefer to go by ship, as I relish the experience of following in the footsteps of the great explorers in crossing the sometimes rough Drake Passage. But other travelers will be better off, for sure, going the fly-cruise route, whether because they are prone to seasickness even in moderate seas or just can't take all that many days off for travel.

Planning an Antarctica cruise expedition? Start with these stories:

• Dreaming of Antarctica: How to book the trip of a lifetime
• Skip the Drake Passage: What it's like flying to Antarctica on a chartered plane
• 7 tips for visiting Antarctica before it's too late
• The ultimate packing list for an Antarctica trip
• These 8 books are must reads before any Antarctica trip

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Everyone, it seems, is cruising to Antarctica

By Megan Spurrell

“I love telling people that Antarctica will be the trip of their lifetime , and they kind of roll their eyes. And then they come back, and they say, ‘You were absolutely right. Antarctica wasn’t just the seventh continent – it was the most amazing experience of my life.’”

James B. McClintock , professor of polar and marine biology at the University of Alabama at Birmingham, has experienced the wonder of the White Continent repeatedly over the past 30 years, on more than 15 research expeditions. But even after three-month stints on the dramatic tundra, at bases like the McMurdo and Palmer stations, McClintock struggles to put the magic of Antarctica into words. It’s the unimaginable scale of the landscape. The huddles of penguins, with no innate fear of humans – it’s ethereal, otherworldly, and yet none of that is enough to describe just how special Antarctica is.

McClintock is far from the only one who feels its pull. Despite the unattainable allure the destination has held for much of the world, Antarctica has, in recent years, hit the mainstream. Travel magazines like ours, house glossy spreads of the imposing blue-and-white landscape. Instagram is flooded with reels and photo dumps of wide-eyed civilians getting their first glimpse of ‘The Ice,’ and wading ashore in borrowed boots. Youtube’s biggest content creators are posting their dispatches (a video from the tireless Mr. Beast of his landing, shared  last month , has nearly 100 million views). Everyone, it seems, is going to Antarctica.

Hurtigruten travellers visit a penguin colony on Cuverville Island in Antarctica, one of many stops on the popular Antarctic peninsula.

Okay, maybe not everyone. The final count of visitors to Antarctica during the 2021-2022 tourism season – Antarctica’s austral summer, from October to March – was 23,527 according to the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO). (I was one of those travellers.) That number represents an infinitesimal 0.00029 percent of the world’s population. And it’s notably less than pre-pandemic figures reported by IAATO, with nearly 75,000 travellers landing in Antarctica in the 2019-2020 season . That pre-pandemic number, though, was the greatest in an overall steady rise from 1991 when IAATO was formed – a year in which a total of 6,400 visitors were reported – only stilted by world events like the 2008 financial crisis and, most recently, the COVID-19 pandemic (just two private yachts are said to have made the journey during the 2020-2021 season). The vast majority of this travel is done by cruise ship.

Travel specialists say, that even as tourism rebounds after the pandemic,  interest  in Antarctica cruising is at an all-time high – and they expect bookings to continue to rise. “Interest in Antarctic cruising has been increasing year over year for the past decade,” says  Ashton Palmer , president of Expedition Trips . “We have seen a steady increase as more companies operate trips to Antarctica, and therefore do more marketing to raise awareness – and the desire to travel farther and to more remote locations has become ever more popular.”

Mary Jean Tully , who books guests on luxury lines like Seabourn has seen the same pattern off the back of growing, and ever-more-fabulous industry offerings. “The curiosity has been there for a while, however with more new luxury expedition ships entering the marketplace, the inquiries and bookings we’re receiving are amazing. There is so much interest, now more than ever.” Just this season, Seabourn Cruise Line, Atlas Ocean Voyages, and Silversea Cruises have all put new expedition ships in Antarctic waters (the Seabourn Venture , Atlas World Traveller , and Silversea's Silver Endeavor , respectively).

Noah Brodsky, the chief commercial officer at Lindblad Expeditions – the company started by Lars Eric Lindblad, who lead the first civilian expedition to the continent in 1966 – says the outfitter had their biggest-ever booking day for Antarctica sailings at the start of January 2023, with reservations up 14 percent over their previous record. “We have an unprecedented 20 Antarctica departures in the 2023-2024 season, and five of them are already full,” Brodsky says. He expects 2023 to be a “record-breaking year” for bookings.

Many in the industry attribute this swelling curiosity to COVID-19, even if Antarctica travel was of growing interest prior. “After the pandemic, many people decided to finally tackle their bucket lists,” says biologist Dr. Verena Meraldi, chief scientist for Hurtigruten Expeditions.

Many, like Palmer, hear from guests who have been to every other continent and are ready for number seven. The tick of climate change’s clock adds an undeniable pressure. “Climate change and fear of its effects on these regions has heightened the urgency – travellers are prioritising the destination now, before it is too late,” says Torstein Gaustad, an expedition leader on Hurtigruten’s hybrid-powered  MS Fridtjof Nansen .

This reality is undeniable: Antarctica, a place so many travellers dream of seeing during their lifetimes, is changing quickly.  Studies led by NASA researchers published in August 2023 found that the edge of the Antarctic ice sheet is “shedding icebergs faster than the ice can be replaced,” with estimates of 12 trillion metric tons of ice loss from the continent’s floating ice shelves since 1997. The  British Antarctic Study reports that the mean annual temperature of the Antarctic Peninsula – where the bulk of tourism is focused – rose by more than 37 degrees Fahrenheit (3.2 degrees Celsius) in the second half of the 20th century. Trey Byus, chief expedition officer with Lindblad Expeditions, has personally observed penguin colonies that are “completely re-colonising elsewhere” due to their changing home.

What does it mean, then, for thousands of visitors to arrive in ever-increasing numbers by cruise ships? Is this last-chance tourism only speeding up the process?

“The simple answer is that wherever human activity exists in the world, there will always be impacts of some degree, some positive, some negative,” says Amy Berquist, vice president, conservation, education, and sustainability at Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic voyages. “If operators are not careful, increasing tourism numbers could also mean greater threat, which is why it’s imperative that everyone bold enough to travel there is also bold enough to educate travellers and share knowledge and experience across the industry, to increase safety and a broad-based commitment to responsible travel.”

Berquist, like many in the industry, believes that Antarctica is well protected by the  Antarctic Treaty and IAATO oversight, among regulations from other bodies. The treaty, first signed in the U.S. in 1959 and now counting 56 nations as signatories, includes  environmental stipulations for travel to the continent. It’s why, on my Viking   Octantis cruise in March 2022, we had all of our clothing aggressively vacuumed before going ashore, to avoid the possibility of introducing foreign specimen; it’s also why only 100 of us, from our ship with over 200 guests onboard, could make a landing at one time.

On a Silversea expedition in Antarctica, guests get a firsthand look at calving glaciers.

Zodiac expeditions take Silversea guests closer to the continent itself.

IAATO, meanwhile, is an organisation of tour operators, agents, and others in the space who have committed to abiding by environmental protocol outlined by the treaty, and then some. “We began observing the trend of increasing interest in the region long ago,” says Lindblad’s Byus. “It’s why, in 1991 we joined with six other private tour operators to found IAATO, establishing the guiding principles for safe and environmentally-friendly private-sector travel to Antarctica.”

Today, the organisation is arguably unlike anything else in the industry. “There’s this whole network set up to keep an eye on each other, and to record things,” says McClintock, “and as far as I can tell, from an outside observer on that system, there’s a lot of peer pressure and it seems to work very well.”

New rules and regulations are coming from organisations like the Antarctic Treaty committee and IAATO all the time. McClintock played a role in having Zodiacs on all ships going to Antarctica switch from two cycle engines to four cycle, which are cleaner and quieter. “You do not want to see an oily sheen on the water down there, and that was happening with two cycle engines,” he says. In 2010, the International Maritime Organisation  banned cruise ships from burning heavy fuel oil in Antarctic waters. “That required a higher quality fuel to be burned, and really knocked out some of the big 2,000 passenger ships that were heading down – and those ships did not have reinforced hulls.” (In other words, a spill possibly waiting to happen, he says.) Dynamic positioning technology allows ships to avoid dropping anchors on the seafloor, preventing damage to sea life; ships have reduced underwater noise pollution, with Viking’s Octantis and Polaris recently receiving SILENT-E notations; Lindblad-NatGeo’s operations are entirely carbon neutral, and single-use plastics have been eliminated onboard.

Sophie Heawood

Arati Menon

Lauren Burvill

CNT Editors

A Hurtigruten ship is docked off of Peterman Island, as guests go ashore in smaller groups. Only 100 travellers from a single ship can be on land at one time, according to rules set out by the Antarctic Treaty.

IAATO is a self-governing body, to be clear. And most of the environmental initiatives taking place on cruise ships are at the behest of private companies. But McClintock is among a number of scientists I spoke to who feel confident in the rules and regulations set out, and the efforts made by the industry to get ahead of the impact of tourism. “My sense is that there's a lot of looking over the shoulder of that cruise industry,” says McClintock.

Others are bolstered in their optimism for Antarctic cruising by the fact that there's actual science happening aboard a number of these ships – citizen science, like tracking humpback whales and counting bioplastics in water samples, sure, but also full-on white coat-donning scientists conducting critical research aboard vessels from Viking and Ponant, to name a couple. It’s easy to be skeptical about the value of this work, as a guest – it sounds too easy – but one scientist after another asserts its value. “We’ve sponsored researchers to go along on Ponant trips and do actual frontline scientific research,” says Richard Garriott, president of The Explorer’s Club , which is partnering with Ponant on onboard programming for a series of sailings from 2024-2026. “There's incredible science being brought back that is important for all of us living around the earth right now.”

With a greatly compromised (read:  rapidly melting ) ice pack in the Arctic, Antarctica’s nearly three mile-deep ice sheet provides a unique environment for  studies on everything from astronomy to wildlife, to systems that could enable humans to survive on Mars, says Garriott, and the landscape allows the use of devices impossible to set up anywhere else on the planet. “The tourists who ride on these expeditions are, in many ways, subsidising that research,” says Garriott. “This public-private partnership, in the modern era, is almost the only way to get science done.”

When it comes to weighing the pros and cons of leisure tourism, Garriott strongly believes the scale tips in favour of responsible travel. “I wouldn't put tourism as Antarctica’s biggest threat,” says Garriott. “The number one is climate change itself. That is going to deteriorate the ice sheet that covers Antarctica. Tourism is a risk that needs to be managed well, but it absolutely can be done in a way that is non-threatening and non-harmful. We just have to make sure people choose to do that.”

These are a few of the reasons why McClintock, a lifelong Antarctic research biologist, became a “reluctant cruise naturalist lecturer” who now does one sailing to Antarctica per year with Abercrombie & Kent . After 15 years, he is no longer iffy about cruising to the continent. “My trepidations to tourism in Antarctica were largely unfounded,” he says. “I gave it a shot because I’m very focused on outreach, as it relates to global climate change. Now, I’m sold.” Part of what won McClintock over was not only being able to discuss the subject of our changing planet with guests, but the chance to speak to travellers who, having also seen the fragility of Antarctica in person, are often driven to become ambassadors for the continent when they return home. It’s another sounds-too-good scenario that he says he’s seen in action.

Guests aboard ships like the Silver Endeavor are often called Antarctica ambassadors – after firsthand seeing the continent, and the impact of climate change, they may be moved to advocate for protection of the fragile environment long after their trip.

“There’s this element of Antarctic ambassadorship that comes out of this experience, and it’s hard to put an exact metric on it, but I think it’s happening,” says McClintock. “I had somebody who said, ‘I’m going to go back and talk to my congressman who lives down the street.’ Many of them know their senators and congressmen and go back and advocate issues related to climate and conservation. These folks on Antarctica cruises are doers. To me, that’s a big positive.”

Some, of course, hold on to their reservations about tourism – more is more, they say. More people, more pollution, more damage. “While I love the fact that tourism allows a glimpse into this incredible environment resulting in many tourists then becoming a passionate voice for its protection, I do worry about, at least the Peninsula, being overrun with tourism and with that, presenting numerous dangers,” says Maggie Amsler, a biology researcher currently based at Palmer Station on Anvers Island. “Garbage, like plastic water bottles, are increasingly washing up on outer island shores. Smaller, private charters aboard yachts are on the increase, and there seems to be little oversight of their activities. There have been incidents over recent years wherein vessel passengers have been put ashore to explore on islands that are protected or the area has sensitive habitats or wildlife. If the vessel’s crew is not familiar with the local restrictions, what other regulatory aspects of Antarctic cruising are being overlooked?”

Amsler doesn't think the jury is completely out on cruising – she says she “absolutely” sees some value in the ambassadorship – but she is adamant that it is every traveller's responsibility to thoroughly research who they travel with, and to continue to push the industry in the right direction. “Choose wisely when selecting the cruise or tour company,” says Amsler. “Scrutinise how green and sustainable the itineraries and shipboard practices are. When onboard, be sure to hold them accountable for actions and make public any shortcomings experienced.”

Fortunately, several companies are leading the way on sustainable innovation in the space. "I am very impressed with the advances in sustainability incorporated into the newest wave of expedition vessels," says Palmer. "Standouts include Quark Expeditions’ Ultramarine , Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic Resolution and Endurance , and Seabourn’s Venture and Pursuit . These state-of-the-art vessels are pushing the envelope with their innovative and environmentally friendly design and offer travellers the most sustainable approach to remote exploration."

Travellers shouldn't make any sacrifices on their expectations for thoughtful Antarctic cruises. And if a company falls short on sustainable policies, passengers should be vocal. “There needs to be increasing pressure to make sure that the regulations are being followed,” adds McClintock.

All of this puts an enormous responsibility – and power – in the hands of leisure travellers to Antarctica. It's about not being the person using a plastic water bottle on board, for starters – but that type of thinking has to continue well before and after the trip. It's as simple as carbon offsets for flights , and reducing single-use plastics, and even rethinking our relationship to driving, which according to Garriott, is responsible for a carbon footprint greater than aviation and Antarctic cruising combined. Amsler agrees: “Antarctica can be protected by everyone by developing sustainable, earth-friendly practices at home."

A version of this article originally appeared on Condé Nast Traveler US .

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Wildlife rules the operations in Antarctica, where penguins, seals, and whales are at the top of travelers’ checklists. Therefore, the ship is run more like an adventure safari in Africa than a cruise. The ship’s expedition team consists of 26 Antarctic experts, each specializing in a different fauna. Like Masai trackers, they are on constant lookout.

“When you do a zodiac cruise, it’s the equivalent of sitting in a safari jeep,” says Patrick Demus, the behavioral ecologist onboard Pursuit. “You never know what you’re going to see when you come around the corner.”

“It’s an ancient, alien world where it’s possible we’re seeing species new to science,” says Merel Dalebout, the vessel’s submersible pilot. “Essentially, this is a time machine, seeing the ocean as it was 500 million years ago.”

Although guests won’t see penguins or whales from the submersible, they’ll see cases of polar gigantism, where starfish, sea spiders, and ancient seaweed are larger than creatures in other warmer oceans.

For guests more interested in the feather-filled, squawking variety of animals, there’ll be dozens of opportunities for sightings. Each morning, the expedition takes zodiacs out to scout for a safe landing where guests may witness a giant elephant seal yawn or a skua attacking a penguin rookery. In the afternoon, another zodiac takes you for an hour-long cruise around glaciers and alongside porpoising chinstrap penguins. You might as well call them what they are: game drives.

“You can see the brutality of animal life a lot clearer here; it’s right in your face,” says Demus. “If you watch a wildlife documentary about certain animals, it takes the filmmakers months to get the footage. It feels like what you see in a documentary about Antarctica, you can actually see that when you spend two hours at a colony.”

When you’re back onboard, there’s still plenty of opportunity for animal sightings. Weddell seals, humpback whales, Adélie penguins, and storm petrels are known to make an appearance whether you’re soaking in the ship’s hot tub or sipping TWG Earl Grey during afternoon tea in the Constellation Lounge.

“There’s nothing like the feeling of looking out from the back of a ship and seeing one whale, two whales, three or four,” says marine mammal scientist Rachel Cartwright. “It reassures us that there is a place where all is well, and eco-systems are intact, and whales still swim leisurely by without fear of nets or fishing.”

From expedition leaders who have climbed all seven of the world’s highest peaks to kayak guides who have recreated Ernest Shackleton’s historic journey to Antarctica, Seabourn’s crew are arguably some of the world’s most interesting.

Apart from the cozier aspects of the ship, including fur-backed lounge chairs near a bar where glacier ice is chipped for Old Fashioneds, these safari guides at sea shine like an iceberg on a sunny day.

“Our team is there sharing the experiences with you on the mobile classrooms onshore, then back on board in the Discovery Center and in the Expedition Lounge,” says Shaun Powell, director of expedition operations. “Over those shared experiences and the knowledge, it allows guests to continue learning about the wildlife, and it fosters friendships that often continue beyond the voyages.”

Seabourn Pursuit’s all-inclusive 11-day expeditions to Antarctica start at $8,624 per person for a Veranda Suite based on double occupancy.

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It's not for everyone: 3 things to know about Antarctica expedition cruises

W hen James Rameson stepped on land in Antarctica during an expedition cruise last month, it’s possible it was the first time anyone had ever set foot on that part of the ice-covered continent.

When the Zodiac boat arrived at the rocky shore, the expedition leader told the Santa Barbara, California, 13-year-old and his fellow passengers – of which I was one – that our group on board Aurora Expeditions’ Sylvia Earle ship may have been the first to visit that particular spot.

Rameson, who took the cruise as a birthday gift with his father, Tyler, 49, made the most of his sudden pioneer status. “I walked over to this random spot, and I'm like, ‘Look, dad, no one has ever been here,’ ” he told USA TODAY. “It's like, ‘I’m the first person to set foot right here,’ which I thought was pretty cool.”

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Not every trip can offer that. “One of the most incredible things about visiting Antarctica is the feeling of exploration and being somewhere very few people have been before,” said Kristin Winkaffe, a luxury travel designer and founder of Winkaffe Global Travel.

But the continent has become an increasingly popular destination. More than 71,200 people visited the ice during the 2022-2023 season, up from around 24,000 in 2021-2022 in the wake of COVID-19 and just under 56,000 in 2019-2020, according to the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators. There has been a surge in inventory , too, with new ships and itineraries from a range of expedition lines.

Here are three things to know about taking an Antarctica cruise:

I did a polar plunge in Antarctica. It meant more than I expected.

1. You’ll have to cross the Drake Passage – maybe

Most expedition cruises to Antarctica depart from Ushuaia, Argentina, and cross the infamous Drake Passage . The waterway is notoriously treacherous, and travelers could experience a rough “Drake Shake” or calm “Drake Lake” during the journey, which takes about two days to complete each way (you may have seen videos of it on TikTok ).

My trip fell somewhere in the middle on the way down with waves as high as about 13 feet. “A lot of people, even if they haven't experienced seasickness before, tend to experience seasickness on the Drake Passage,” Winkaffe said.

Expedition ships tend to be small, but larger cruise ships visit Antarctica as well and guests may feel the impact of the waves less thanks to their size. However, travelers should note that ships carrying more than 500 passengers are not permitted to take them on land , according to the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators. 

Some cruise operators offer flights over the Drake Passage. But Winkaffe warned that those trips are not only “exponentially more expensive” – Antarctica cruises can range from around $5,000 per person to more than $20,000 and those flights could add between $5,000 and $10,000 – but also less reliable since weather in the area can be unpredictable.

“There is the possibility that (ships will) get canceled or delayed due to weather but they're able to cross during worse weather than the flights are,” she said.

Lindblad Expeditions is the latest operator to add the option, allowing guests to skip potentially rough waters and shave time off their trip. CEO and founder Sven-Olof Lindblad said last month at the luxury travel trade show ILTM Cannes that the brand had long held off due to concerns passengers wouldn’t take off and land as scheduled, but that technology has made the flights more predictable, Travel + Leisure reported .

2. You have to be flexible

Given the extreme climate, Antarctica cruises may not always go as planned. 

During my trip with Aurora, the expedition team shared an intended itinerary for the next day each night with guests, with the caveat that it was only a Plan A. After they assessed the conditions upon arrival, we sometimes explored by Zodiac rather than attempting to go on land or relocated altogether.

That may be an adjustment for travelers who have been on other types of cruises with detailed itineraries from start to finish. “Antarctica is a totally different beast in that you basically just have to accept that you’re going on a tour to Antarctica and not get attached to any specific place,” Winkaffe said.

She recommended going into the trip with a “sense of adventure,” and that travelers avoid Googling specific locations ahead of time to minimize disappointment if they don’t make it there. Destinations may also look different from their photos, particularly because the environment changes throughout the year (the Antarctica cruise season runs from October through March , encompassing its summer).

“Everybody has FOMO ( fear of missing out ) and everything, but everybody’s experience is different,” said Jeff Nagel, the assistant expedition leader on my trip.

3. Keep the environment in mind

As harrowing as the Antarctic environment can seem, it’s also vulnerable. Scientists have already warned of dire impacts due to climate change.

That makes visiting with care especially important. On board the expedition with Aurora, we received information on the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators guidelines and followed biosecurity protocols , like cleaning and having our gear inspected to avoid transporting nonnative species and scrubbing our boots after landings (the ship even played songs like Taylor Swift’s “Shake It Off” while we twisted our feet against rubber mats to remove debris).

“We are aware that, of course, in spite of all the work we do to make it as sustainable … as possible, we do have an impact,” said Mario Placidi Spring, the expedition leader on my trip.

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Winkaffe recommended doing research before booking and choosing a cruise operator that is putting effort and money toward operating sustainably.

“I'd like to believe that through our educational programs and (other programming) on board that we are creating ambassadors, and people are going home and maybe thinking about those small changes they can make in their life that will protect these areas and protect the world as a whole,” Nagel added.

Editor’s note: The reporter on this story received access to this expedition from Aurora Expeditions. USA TODAY maintains editorial control of reviews.

Nathan Diller is a consumer travel reporter for USA TODAY based in Nashville. You can reach him at [email protected].

This article originally appeared on USA TODAY: It's not for everyone: 3 things to know about Antarctica expedition cruises

Scientists went on a hunt for the elusive colossal squid — and brought cruise ship tourists with them

• Kolossal hopes to film a colossal squid in its natural habitat, the waters around Antarctica.
• The squid is large but elusive and difficult to study since it lives thousands of feet underwater.
• Using Antarctic tourist boats made searching for the squid far more cost-effective.

Over the course of four trips, tourists on an Antarctic cruise ship watched researchers lower a camera into the frigid, icy waters of the Southern Ocean. They had the same question every day: "Did you find it yet?"

The scientists were searching for the colossal squid, an evasive cephalopod that can weigh 1,100 pounds. Though fishing boats have found a handful of complete and partial specimens, researchers have had difficulty finding one in the wild.

Matthew Mulrennan hopes to change that with Kolossal, the nonprofit he founded to film a colossal squid in its natural habitat. The goal is to learn basic information about the sea animal , like how it hunts and looks in different life stages.

"I always like to say that it's an oversize poster species for how little we know about the ocean and how little we've explored it," he told Business Insider.

In 2022 and 2023, Mulrennan assembled a team of scientists to attempt to get footage of the squid aboard the Antarctic tourist cruises. Though he estimates the endeavors cost $500,000 in total, it was far cheaper than hiring a research vessel.

The cruise ship holds 200 passengers, each paying upwards of $6,720. While they expected lectures from geologists, marine biologists, and other experts, they didn't necessarily know there would be a full research station aboard.

The team's underwater camera filmed dozens of Antarctic species, including one squid resembling a young colossal.

The enigmatic colossal squid

Measuring about 46 feet with its tentacles spread out, the colossal squid is nevertheless hard to spot.

Adults live over 3,000 feet deep in the waters around Antarctica, putting them beyond the reach of even the most skilled technical divers. Submersible vehicles may scare them off.

Many of the known specimens were found in the stomach of sperm whales, whose diets may be 77 percent colossal squid. Only 12 complete specimens have been found, according to a 2015 study .

"There isn't that much that's known about it because it's so elusive," according to Myrah Graham, a master's student at Memorial University's Marine Institute who accompanied Mulrennan on one of the expeditions.

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They're also difficult to preserve for long-term study, and so a lot of the fundamentals about them aren't known, including how old they get, details of their reproduction , and the population size, Graham said.

"The bottom line is we just need to film it, and we can learn a lot off of just brief interactions," he said.

Combining science and tourism

Mulrennan first became interested in colossal squids in 2007 when he was studying abroad at the University of Auckland. Researchers dissected what he called a "monster specimen" captured by a fishing vessel.

Though Mulrennan wasn't involved in the dissection, he was hooked on learning more about the sea animal. In 2015, he made a goal to film the colossal squid within 10 years.

Chartering research vessels can cost tens of thousands of dollars a day. Similar expeditions have cost as much as $8 million, Mulrennan said.

Eventually, Mulrennan hit on the idea of getting on Intrepid Travel's Ocean Endeavor, a cruise ship that would already be traveling to Antarctica .

Once aboard, curious cruise-goers would stop by and watch brittle stars and other deep-sea life captured by an underwater camera . The passengers started referring to the researchers as the "squid heads," Mulrennan said.

"You're getting this kind of privileged access immediately on board, Graham said. "One of the comments I got the most was, 'Oh, I wish I had gone to school for marine biology .'"

In order to accommodate the cruise passengers' itineraries of seeing penguins and seals — what Mulrennan called "air-breathing cuties" — the researchers had to pull all-nighters when the ship was in the deep ocean .

Sometimes the passengers would complain about the smelly toothfish bait the scientists used to lure the squid. The researchers had to be flexible about lowering the underwater camera, especially when the waves churned ice nearby.

Once, the researchers had to take down their whole research station so passengers could use the nearby door for a polar plunge.

"You get 150 half-naked guests walking out doing vodka shots in your research station," Mulrennan said. "It's like bizarre stuff that can't happen on a normal vessel."

The future of the colossal squid search

During 58 days at sea, Kolossal's camera captured over 80 marine species , including giant volcano sponges, dragonfish, icefish, Antarctic sun stars, and — maybe — a colossal squid.

"We're not claiming this is the colossal squid, but it's also not not a colossal squid," Mulrennan said of footage of a translucent squid that the camera filmed.

Based on assessments of experts who have seen the footage, it's impossible to tell whether the animal is a young colossal squid or a full-grown glass squid.

Graham said she thinks it shows they're on the right track.

Mulrennan hopes to return to Antarctica during the next season, just in time for his self-imposed deadline of finding the colossal squid by 2025.

"We're closing in on a hundred years of our interaction with the species," Mulrennan said, "and we still know so little about it."

Watch: Dumbo octopus 'wows' researchers during deep-sea expedition

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Father of florida cruise passenger, 20, who jumped off royal caribbean ship after argument believes his son is still alive: report.

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The father of the 20-year-old passenger who jumped off a Royal Caribbean cruise ship last Thursday in a reportedly drunken, impulsive leap believes his son is still alive nearly a week later.

Francel Parker, dad of missing Levion Parker, told the Daily Sun that he believes his child — whom he called a master diver — is still alive in the waters off the Bahamas.

“As soon as he went off the side, I prayed over him. I was confident the prayers I said over my son were heard. I stand on the word of God. I believe he is alive,” Francel Parker said to the local Florida paper Wednesday.

The US Coast Guard called off its search for the North Port man a day earlier.

The younger Parker allegedly jumped off the 18-story Liberty of the Seas around 4 a.m. in front of his helpless dad and younger brother after getting into an argument with his father, witnesses previously told The Post.

But Francel, who runs an AC business in Port Charlotte, told the local newspaper that he wasn’t arguing with Levion and that his son wasn’t trying to take his own life.

He said Levion is a skilled diver who works on a commercial fishing boat, and he is demanding to know how his underage son was given alcohol on the four-day cruise to Cuba and the Bahamas’ Grand Inagua Island.

“We don’t drink,” Francel said. “I’d like to know how my son was served so much alcohol.”

Another passenger onboard the cruise who witnessed Levion’s heart-stopping jump said Francel was “fussing at him for being drunk.”

Bryan Sims told The Post that he was hanging out with Levion and his 18-year-old brother, Seth, in the hotel tub of the ship in the early hours of April 4 before they went their separate ways.

After Sims had used the restroom and dried off, he bumped into the brothers and their father near the elevators.

“As we were walking from the hot tub back to the elevators, his dad and brother were walking towards us. His dad was fussing at him for being drunk, I guess,” Sims said of the moment before Parker jumped.  

“When we got to them, he said to his dad, ‘I’ll fix this right now.’ And he jumped out the window in front of us all,” Sims said, calling what he witnessed “surreal.”

Another cruise guest described the frantic chaos that followed.

“There was a lot of yelling, and the crew was alerted immediately,” Deborah Morrison told The Post.

“His family was horrified. Just beside themselves. I can’t even begin to imagine what they’re going through.”

Francel told the Daily Sun that he threw six life rings off the ship in hopes of saving his son before the massive vessel was able to come to a stop about 20 minutes later.

Royal Caribbean said it “immediately” launched search boats to look for the 20-year-old and alerted the Coast Guard, which later took over the search.

At least 406 people on major cruise lines and ferries have gone overboard between 2000 and 2024, according to data collected by retired professor and cruise industry researcher Ross Klein.

Death rates among overboard passengers and crew members vary significantly among cruise lines, but even the safest cruise companies were only able to rescue about 40% of people who fall or jump off the ship, Klein told the Washington Post in July.

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