2016 dodge journey intake manifold removal

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Intake manifolds – removal and installation

Warning: Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning this procedure.

1. If you will be removing the lower intake manifold, relieve the fuel system pressure (see Fuel and exhaust systems – gasoline engines ).

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the remote ground terminal (see Engine electrical systems ).

3. If equipped, remove the engine cover.

Upper intake manifold

4. Disconnect the IAT sensor electrical connector then remove the top half of the air filter housing (see Tune-up and routine maintenance ).

5. Remove the intake resonator (see illustration).

5.5 Loosen the resonator hose clamp, remove the attaching pin and remove the resonator

6. Disconnect the wiring harness from the MAP sensor and the Electronic Throttle Con­trol (ETC) (see illustration).

5.6 Disconnect the ETC connectors (A), the MAP sensor (B) and the electrical harness (C) retainer

7. Disconnect the PCV valve hose (see Tune-up and routine maintenance ), vapor purge hose and brake booster hoses.

8. Disconnect the wiring harness retainers from the upper intake support bracket and the retainer from the stud bolt (see illustration).

5.8 Pry the wiring harness retainer off of the bracket stud

9. Remove the nuts and stud bolt, then remove the upper intake manifold bracket (see illustration).

5.9 Remove the stud bolt (A) and bracket nuts (B), and remove the bracket

10. Remove the brake booster hose-to-sup­port bracket retainer.

11. Remove the support bracket-to-upper manifold nuts (see illustration).

5.11 Remove the support bracket upper nuts (A), loosen the lower

12. Loosen the upper intake manifold bolts and remove the upper intake manifold (see illustration).

5.12 Location of the upper intake manifold bolts

Note: The bolts are captive — don’t attempt to remove them from the manifold.

13. Discard the six upper-to-lower intake manifold seals, and cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine.

14. If required, remove the insulator from the left valve cover ( Valve covers – removal and installation ).

Lower intake manifold

15. Remove the upper intake manifold (see Steps 4 through 14).

16. Disconnect the fuel line to the fuel rail (see Fuel and exhaust systems – gasoline engines ).

17. Remove the fuel injectors and fuel rail (see Fuel and exhaust systems – gasoline engines ).

Note: The lower intake manifold can be removed with the injectors and fuel rail in place, if desired. Be careful not to damage the fuel injectors once the manifold is removed.

18. Pry the wiring harness retainer from the end of the manifold and move the harness out of the way.

19. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts (see illustration), and remove the manifold from the cylinder heads.

5.19 Lower intake manifold bolt locations

20. Discard the six manifold-to-cylinder head seals.

Installation

Note: The mating surfaces of the cylinder heads, cylinder block, and the intake manifold must be perfectly clean when the lower intake manifold is installed. Gasket removal solvents are available at most auto parts stores and may be helpful when removing old gasket material that’s stuck to the cylinder heads, cylinder block and lower intake manifold (the lower intake manifold is made of aluminum -aggressive scrapping can cause damage). Be sure to follow the instructions printed on the solvent container.

21. Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of sealant and old gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with brake system cleaner. If there’s old sealant or oil on the mat­ing surfaces when the lower intake manifold is installed, oil or vacuum leaks may develop. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove gasket material that falls into the intake ports or the lifter valley.

22. If removed, install the fuel injectors and the fuel rail (see Fuel and exhaust systems – gasoline engines ).

23. Install new intake manifold seals to the manifold.

Note: Remove any rags or towels used in the manifold ports.

24. Carefully lower the lower intake manifold into place (see illustration) and install the mounting bolts finger-tight.

5.24 Install the manifold, making sure the new intake seals do not fall out of the manifold

25. Tighten the mounting bolts in steps, fol­lowing the tightening sequence (see illustration), to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

5.25 Lower intake manifold bolt tightening sequence

26. Install the upper intake manifold.

27. Check the condition of the rubber seals that are installed into each intake runner on the upper intake manifold. If they are dam­aged, replace them.

28. Place the insulator on the mounting pins, if removed.

29. Install the upper intake manifold onto the lower intake manifold while pulling the bolts up.

Note: The bolts are specially made for the composite material and should be turned slowly to prevent damage to the upper intake manifold.

30. Tighten the mounting bolts in sequence (see illustration) to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

5.30 Upper intake manifold bolt tightening sequence

31. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

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Dodge Journey With 3.6L Losing Coolant (Look HERE first)

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Here is a list of tools I use every day at the shop. Let me know if you use them too in the comments!

The 3.6-liter engine from Chrysler has become notorious for leaks, especially coolant. Coolant leaks can cause overheating, loss of heat in the cabin, and irreversible damage to the engine. In this article, we will look at a common coolant leak in the 3.6-liter engine.

Which model of Dodge Journey has the 3.6-liter engine?

The 3.6-liter engine was introduced in the 2011 Dodge Journey models and is available through the present models.

Frequently Asked Question:

Where do I find wiring diagrams and step-by-step repair procedures for Dodges?

The best online resource I use is Alldatadiy.com.

I used it for this case study to find the correct procedure for this Dodge Journey.

What is the cooling system?

A vehicle uses coolant to keep the engine from overheating. It flows through passages in the engine and disperses the heat. This keeps the temperature of the engine in a specific range.

There are many parts of the cooling system, including the radiator and thermostat, that have coolant flowing through it.

What is a coolant leak?

If a part of the cooling system becomes weak, coolant can leak out.

O-rings and gaskets are the most common issues with coolant leaks, but components of the cooling system can also become cracked and leak.

Why is my Dodge Journey leaking coolant?

Dodge Journey and the 3.6-liter engines have issues with leaks coming from the oil cooler/oil filter housing .

The oil cooler/oil filter housing is part of the cooling system and has coolant flowing through it.

The oil cooler/oil filter housing is designed to cool the engine oil to a certain temperature. It does this by dispersing heat throughout the oil cooler.

A common symptom of this leak is coolant running down the back of the engine onto the transmission.

Here is a link to the oil cooler/ oil filter housing. Before ordering, make sure it is the correct one for your Dodge Journey.

What can happen if I lose coolant?

Here is a list of things that can happen if you lose all of your coolant.

You will lose heat inside your vehicle

A “low coolant” message may pop-up

Your vehicle will overheat

Where is the oil cooler/oil filter housing located?

The oil cooler/oil filter housing is located in the “V” of the 3.6-liter engine. It is below the lower intake manifold.

How do I stop my Dodge Journey from leaking coolant?

The only way to truly solve this coolant leak is to replace the oil cooler/oil filter housing .

Can you still drive with a coolant leak?

Driving with little to no coolant is bad for the engine.

The reason is that the coolant keeps the engine from overheating.

If an engine overheats, it can potentially be destroyed.

Check out this other article about an oil leak from the oil cooler/oil filter housing in the 3.6-liter engine.

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Due to factors beyond the control of DiagnosticMechanic.com, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. DiagnosticMechanic.com assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this website. DiagnosticMechanic.com recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this website. Due to factors beyond the control of DiagnosticMechanic.com, no information contained in this website shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this website is the sole responsibility of the user and not DiagnosticMechanic.com.

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Dodge grand caravan with 3.6l losing coolant (look here first).

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• Engine & Transmission

Engine removal - leave trans in

By Borjawil June 2, 2020 in Engine & Transmission

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Swapping a 3.5 in an 09 journey fwd. Got everything unbolted to remove engine. Using a wooden dolly to hold engine. Saw a couple YouTube videos that don't explain it too well. Basically they say to remove the trans mounts. But what holds the trans then? Another jack? 

I've started lifting the vehicle and the trans and engine have separated approx 1/2-1". But the engine can't slide to the pass side any further as the block where the top mount goes hits the frame/wheel well area. 

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Figured it out and pulled from the top. Actually on of the easiest pulls ive done. Ill try to do a write up and video for youtbue as well. But for now the main points are

1) dont disconnect AC or power steering pump  and lines.  leave it hanging. 

2) I removed both axles but Ive seen that only the driver side needs to be removed. Slides right out, pass side the support needs to be removed and then itll come out. 

3) catch all the trans fluid when pulling axles and separating from engine. Apparently there is no fill plug, but I havent confirmed this yet. Major design flaw if so. 

4) rear trans and top trans mount need to be removed. Easiest done by unbolting top one from vehicle, dropping the cross bar under the trans, and then access to the 3 bolts facing the wheel well can be gotten to. Oh and remove the top engine mount. Either use a jack or your engine hoist to support everything. Once the mount is removed from the trans and vehicle, raise it back up, bolt the cross member, and pull the engine. Use a leveler so the engine slips away from the trans. Dont forget to remove your flywheel to torque converter bolts. 4 of them, theres an access panel underneath. 

5) youll need to remove the crank dampener, alternator can stay on, belt tensioner  can stay as well. 

6) make sure to drain coolant from radiator, big hose on pass side underneath, and the smaller hose on the front lower that connects to the plastic barb that clips on to the block (weird  plastic square block thing)

7) rear manifold can stay on but easier if its removed. I pulled with it off, and installed with it on. wasnt a huge hassel, but the cat and o2 sensors tend to catch on the heater core  hoses. Easily remove manifold with engine in. Not sure why a lot of people make a stink about on bolting it. Remove the heat shield and climb on top of your engine bay. Knees on header panel above radiator and bend over. 

8) remove wipers to remove plastic on firewall to windshield. Theres a plastic box under that. Youll want to remove plastic box if you remove or install with manifold on. super easy to remove. 

9) I did not remove the radiator, fan, front clip, fenders, etc. that ive seen the 2 or 3 videos do on youtube. Unecessary. 

10) there are bolts from the engine to trans and trans to engine. 4 18mm on trans to engine, and 6 or 7 from engine side to trans. Starter needs to be removed. 

thats really about it. besides the upper intake and wiring harness , airbox, etc. 

• jkeaton , 2late4u and OhareFred

Adding to this. You can fill trans from top. Plus says for dealer use only. Its under the airbox

To add to the above for transfluid. 3.5l 6 speed trans take 4qts of fluid unless it's a new or completely dry trans. Theres no dipstick unfortunately. 

But I have another question if anyone knows. Looking at the torque converter  and flywheel or flex plate there are four raised points on converter. Usually ive seen flex plates and converters only matching up one way, but looks like it could go together at any 90degree point for the bolts holes. However, mine is binding with the block and trans bolted together. Can't turn the flywheel. If I loosen bolts so there's a 1/4-1/2" gap I can turn. But hard to tell if converter is doing free like I believe it should. 

I've roasted fly wheel 90 and 180 and 270 degrees from where I started and same thing. Before I pull apart any advice or anyone know if it mates a specific way? I know the fly wheel bolts get tightened after the block and trans are bolts. Manual says to tightened the bottom two bolts on engine first then do the converter bolts. Still binding. 

Well swapped flywheels out. Can't get things to line up up correctly. Not sure if anyone knows but the extra "ridge" on the fly wheel with the square cut outs is for a sensor to read. Does that go over the torque converter or just touches it? It looks to be about 1.5" wide, where as the torque converter raised bolt holes are only about .5" 

The trans is basically loose in the engine any resting in the cross member, as you have to undo all mounts. At this point I'm going to lift the engine out of the vehicle and see how the other flex plate fits on the converter. Then I'll likely remove the trans and mate it to the block, then see if I can get them in through the top. There looks to be enough room if you go at an angle with the trans pointed downward.

• 1 year later...

How did you get the very back engine to trans bolt out. I just can’t find a way to get to it from the top or bottom.

John/Horace

Mitchel on line login for a month not that pricy. All torque specs and assembly instructions  for pretty much all cars.

Lots of shops have a subscription.

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2009 - 2020 Dodge Journey 3.6L Engine Torque Specs

• Torque Spec

2016 Dodge Journey 3.6L Complete Torque Specs List

Click the area you are looking for!

Dodge Journey 3.6L Pentastar Repair Information

Dodge journey 3.6l pentastar engine repair information.

Here you can find information regarding the assembly of the Dodge 3.6L Pentastar engine. In this guide we will start from the inside of the engine including the crankshaft, connecting rods, and piston ring installation and then move outwards all the way to the pulley belt system. Along the way correct procedures and torque specs will be given to aid in the assembly of the engine. Feel free to start from the beggining and work your way outwards or skip ahead to your current position in the engine for what you may need.

Crankshaft Main Caps Installation

Dodge Journey 3.6L Main Cap Inner Bolts Torque Specs : 15 ft-lbs + 90°

Dodge journey 3.6l main cap outer bolts torque specs : 16 ft-lbs + 90°, dodge journey 3.6l main cap side bolts torque specs : 20 ft-lbs, piston and connecting rod installation.

Dodge Journey 3.6L Pentastar Connecting Rod Torque Specs : 15 ft-lbs + 90°

Oil pump installation.

Dodge Journey 3.6L Oil Pump Mounting Bolt Torque Specs : 8 ft-lbs

Dodge journey 3.6l oil pump sprocket bolt torque specs : 18 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l oil pump pickup tube torque specs : 8 ft-lbs, cylinder head installation.

Dodge Journey 3.6L Cylinder Head Main Bolt Torque Specs : 22 ft-lbs + 33 ft-lbs + 130°

Timing chain and camshaft installation.

Dodge Journey 3.6L Camshaft Sprocket Bolts Torque Spec: 111 ft-lbs

Dodge journey 3.6l camshaft bearing cap bolts torque spec : 8 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l camshaft timing chain guides torque spec : 8 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l timing chain tensioners torque spec : 8 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l crankshaft position sensor torque spec: 8 ft-lbs, timing cover installation.

Dodge Journey 3.6L Timing Cover Bolts Torque Specs (M6): 8 ft-lbs

Dodge journey 3.6l timing cover bolts torque specs (m6): 18 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l timing cover bolts torque specs (m10): 41 ft-lbs, oil pan installation.

Dodge Journey 3.6L Lower Oil Pan Torque Specs (M6): 8 ft-lbs

Dodge journey 3.6l upper oil pan torque specs (m8): 18 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l oil drain plug torque specs : 20 ft-lbs, valve covers installation.

Dodge Journey 3.6L Valve Cover Torque Specs : 8 ft-lbs

Intake manifold and fuel rail installation.

Dodge Journey 3.6L Intake Manifold Torque Specs : 8 ft-lbs

Dodge journey 3.6l ignition coil assembly torque spec : 8 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l spark plug torque specs : 13 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l throttle body torque specs : 8 ft-lbs, exhaust manifold installation.

Dodge Journey 3.6L Exhaust Manifold Torque Spec : 18 ft-lbs

Dodge journey 3.6l exhaust pipe torque specs : 30 ft-lbs, water pump and thermostat installation.

Dodge Journey 3.6L Water Pump to Case Torque Specs : 8 ft-lbs

Front dress and pulley belt installation.

Dodge Journey 3.6L Crankshaft Pulley Torque Specs : 30 ft-lbs + 105°

Dodge journey 3.6l idler pulley bolt torque spec : 18 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l drive belt tensioner torque specs : 41 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l motor mount to engine torque specs : 45 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l motor mount to frame torque specs : 45 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l alternator to block torque specs : 18 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l power steering pulley torque specs : 18 ft-lbs, dodge journey 3.6l a/c compressor to block torque specs : 18 ft-lbs, other makes, top 10 dodges ever.

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3.6L Engine Oil Cooler + Intake Manifold Issues

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So a few weeks ago on a confusingly cold day here in Phoenix, I used my heat for the first time in a while and found the PAX side heat to be frigid cold, and immediately knew this was related to the dreaded heater core problems. Went through the paces and checked the coolant to make sure and lo and behold there is a nice buildup of pudding and visible engine oil in the overflow tank. However, there is no coolant in the oil or ATF, so no blown head gasket or trans cooler. Further investigation proved that there was a nice accumulation of oil at the base of the oil filter/oil cooler in the cylinder valley, and these 3.6s are prone to this part cracking (plastic part on top of the head with a filter that requires 25nm torque, lol?) I plan on ripping the engine apart this weekend to replace the cooler. This requires removal of the upper and lower intake manifolds, so I'm going to replace the gaskets while I'm in there. I have had symptoms of leaking intake manifold too. Audible hissing coming from above the right head, loss of engine power under heavy acceleration, rough shifts (is the 62te affected by vacuum in this car at all? I know I have fluid issues too, see other post). No lean engine codes though. Hopefully this solves both problems, but is there anything else I should change out while I have the intake manifold off? I know I'm due for plugs at like 100k or so, is there much benefit in me replacing them early? Coolant flush is automatic since coolant has to be drained anyways, will flush the heater core too. The Arizona sun is a harsh mistress to gaskets and seals.  

I would change out the plugs while you have everything apart. While you're replacing the oil filter housing assembly check the intake for any cracks. The coolant flush won't do much to help a plugged heater core if that's the problem but it's worth a try after you reassemble everything.  

If you haven't already, when all that stuff is off, I'd swap out your oil pressure sensor while you have stuff off (if you're over 50k miles). They are a high failure item and are almost impossible to get to without taking off both upper and lower manifolds. Will be a few more bucks now, but it's cheaper than replacing the manifold gaskets down the road.  

Does anyone have the torque specs for the upper and lower manifolds for the 3.6l?  

Nevermind...picked up a Haynes.  

So swapped out the oil cooler/oil filter housing on my car (2013 3.6l SXT) today. Was a fairly lengthy progress but not too difficult. The odd thing was the condition of the oil pressure sensor (which was the main reason for taking everything off). The top, near the connector, was broken, almost as if it was being wiggled back and forth. No idea how a part doesn't move can have that type of stress.  

Good to hear all went well. I have to do the same thing with mine soon. Any recommendations or things to look out for and did you find the torque specs?  

Yeah, I found the torque specs. Picked up a Haynes manual. I had to do the entire oil cooler...that was 36 in/lb...the lower manifold is 62 in/lb and the upper is 86 in/lb. Other than that, not much too it...the screws on the oil cooler, if you have to do that, are reverse torx (female), but we were able to use a 6 mm with a little tapping.  

Ok, thank you!  

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2016 intake manifold removal. Need help

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Hi Victor: Welcome to the DDN. The 3.6L was updated in 2016, so videos might be a little different for '15, 14, etc, but should still give you the general idea. Ar you already at or over 100K? Your oem plugs should get you that far. I don't know of that upper manifold is dry or wet as far as coolant goes. There is always another less obvious bolt, bracket, hose, etc that you won't see at first. Don  

There should be a side bracket w/2 bolts on the driver side you need to remove in addition to the rear bracket.  

Thanks for the reply mr G. I cant find the bracket you are referencing to. Do you think you could mark on the pictures i posted where that is? I removed the 2 bolts by the yellow deepstick on the picture  

Victor: I agree those plugs look pretty nasty. Are you having some kind of issue, or just getting an early start on preventative maintenance? Don  

Just getting an early start. I put some cleaner on my last tank of gas prior to removing my spark plugs to free out some of the carbon so that may have added to the spark plugs. (Or it should have cleaned them, i dont know) but it looks like this intake is going to be too big of a job for me.  

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Intake Manifold fit your 2015 Dodge Journey

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• Balance Shaft / Oil Pump Assembly
• Camshaft & Valvetrain
• Crankcase Ventilation
• Crankshaft , Crankshaft Bearings , Damper And Flywheel
• Cylinder Block & Hardware
• Cylinder Head & Cover / Camshaft Carrier
• Engine Assembly & Service
• Engine Cover & Related Parts
• Engine Cylinder Block Heater
• Engine Gasket / Install Kits
• Engine Mounting Left Side
• Engine Mounting Rear
• Engine Mounting Right Side
• Engine Mounting, Front
• Engine Oil , Filter , Adapter And Housing / Oil Cooler & Hoses / Tubes
• Engine Oil Pan & Engine Oil Level Indicator & Related Parts
• Exhaust Manifold & Heat Shield
• Intake Manifold
• Pistons , Piston Rings , Connecting Rods & Connecting Rod Bearing
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• Require Quantity : 6
• Package Quantity : 1

• Fitting Vehicle Options : 49 - HATCHBACK TYPE #2, D - DODGE, DFF - 4-Speed Automatic Transmission VLP, DG2 - 6-Speed Automatic Transmission 62TE, E - DODGE AWD, ED3 - 4 Cyl 2.4L DOHC Dual VVT, ED7
• Replaced By : 4593915AB

• Fitting Vehicle Options : 49 - HATCHBACK TYPE #2, D - DODGE, DE1, DG2 - 6-Speed Automatic Transmission 62TE, E - DODGE AWD, EBT
• Replaced By : 68532037AA

• Require Quantity : 7
• Replaced By : 6512338AA

• Fitting Vehicle Options : 49 - HATCHBACK TYPE #2, D - DODGE, E - DODGE AWD, ERB - 6 Cyl 3.6L VVT
• Replaced By : 68371847AB

• Replaced By : 5281822AA

• Require Quantity : 2

• Require Quantity : 8

• Require Quantity : 4

• Replaced By : 5184349AF

• Require Quantity : 9

• Replaced By : 5281882AA

• Require Quantity : 3

• Replaced By : 5281884AB