ucla travel policy lodging

Travel and Reimbursements

UCLA Travel Arrangements

• VC Research Travel and Working Meeting Guidelines

Direct Payment

Travel reimbursements, reimbursable expenses, working meetings, non-reimbursable expenses, travel insurance, other reimbursements, foreign travel, useful travel links.

• Travel and Other Reimbursement Request Form
• Travel and Other Reimbursement Request Form Instructions
• Working Business Meeting Expense Form

UCLA Travel

Phone: (310) 206-2639, (800) 235-UCLA (8252) Email: travel@finance.ucla.edu   Website: UCLA Travel Services

ORA Contact

Aiza Almario (310) 206-3368 Allynn Lewis (424) 259-5039

Online booking is available through the Concur portal using your UCLA Log-On ID (Single sign-on). Please contact Allynn Lewis  for instructions to update your profile in the portal. Please allow at least 2 weeks advance notice prior to your travel date to process airfare booking.

Concur is a secure, web portal with access to UC’s Systemwide Travel Program comprehensive rates and benefits for all those affiliated with UC. It is important to note, we can only do direct billing for airfare; however, Concur can also be used to book all your other travel needs (lodging, car rentals, rail).

For additional information, please refer to the following link:

• Guidelines for Infrequent Travelers

It is the policy of the University that all business travel shall be properly authorized, reported, and reimbursed in accordance with UC policy. Under no circumstances shall personal expenses be charged to, or be temporarily funded by, the University, including UCLA Corporate Card.

For additional information, please refer to the following links:

• UCLA Travel Guidelines

The following can be paid directly by UCLA to minimize employee out of pocket expenses:

• Conference Registration (3 weeks advance notice)

Contact Allynn Lewis  with any request and questions.

Travel & Entertainment (T&E) Card

With the approval of the individual’s director, ORA staff that travel on University business or for professional development at least four (4) times a year are eligible for UCLA’s T&E card.

The Travel & Entertainment (T&E) card is intended to cover most business travel related expenses, including lodging, food and transportation.

• Cardholder is personally responsible to pay balance due on time.
• T & E Card can only be used for travel and entertainment expenses that are related to University business and reimbursable under University policies. No personal expenses are allowed.
• Travel-related expenses, such as hotel deposits and conference registration, can be reimbursed in advance if they are purchased using the T&E card.
• Please submit approved requests to the business office within five (5) days after returning from travel or event.
• Late fees are not reimbursable, per University policy.
• Please visit the Travel & Entertainment Card , UC Policy and T&E Coverage & Use websites for additional information.
• Please see the T&E Cardholder Agreement with US Bank.

Please contact Aiza Almario with questions and completed application .

• Travel of Less than 24 Hours – When the entire length of a trip is less than 24 hours, meals and incidental expenses cannot be reimbursed unless the travel includes an "overnight stay” as supported by a lodging receipt.
• Per University Policy, Travel reimbursement must be completed by UCLA's Travel Accounting within 45 days from completion of trip or it will be treated as imputed income and taxable.

In order to claim reimbursement for your travel expenses, you must complete the Travel and Other Reimbursement Request ( Form , Instructions ) and submit the completed form along with the original itemized receipts to Allynn Lewis  within 5 business days of the end of a trip.

• It typically takes 5 to 12 working days for UCLA Travel Accounting to process the reimbursement check and electronic deposit to the traveler’s bank.

Please refer to the following policy if there are any additional questions:

• Travel Policy
• Travel and Other Reimbursement Request ( Form , Instructions )
• Expenditures for Business Meetings, Entertainment, and Other Occasions. BUS-79
• Direct billing of airline ticket is strongly recommended. Refer to Travel Arrangements for details.
• For reimbursement of airfare, the original receipt for the ticket is required. If traveling with an e-ticket, the email receipt/confirmation with proof of payment will suffice. All flight receipts/documentation must include the form of payment (e.g., if the airfare was paid with a credit card, it may include VISAxxxxxxxx1234).
• Travel packages that are not itemized will not be reimbursed (i.e. Expedia, Orbits, Travelocity) as they do not provide itemized receipts/folio as required by IRS regulations.

Please use UCLA's preferred car rental company (currently Hertz, National, and Enterprise) according to University policy. Please refer to the University’s Rental Car Agreements for additional information.

• Do not take the additional collision damage waiver (CDW), as the UCLA negotiated rate includes this coverage.
• Any additional insurance purchased is not reimbursable and will be at the cost of the traveler.

LAX offers parking discounts for UCLA employees through The Parking Spot, UCLA’s preferred partner. You will save 25% off the regular rates by showing your UCLA University ID.

Effective October 15, 2017, the following limit will be in effect for all Continental US travel: Continental US (CONUS) Lodging Expense NEW CAP of $275 nightly rate

• If the traveler is unable to secure lodging at $275 per night or less, the traveler must submit additional documentation such as price comparisons within reasonable proximity of the meeting location. The price comparisons should be performed at the time of booking.
• A traveler who is required to attend a conference where the prearranged conference lodging rate exceeds the $275 per night cap may stay at the conference hotel without exceptional approval.

Original, itemized receipts for all lodging expenses as well as any working meeting expenditures included in the lodging claim are required for reimbursement.

Lodging is generally not reimbursable if the lodging site is within a 40-mile radius of the traveler's residence.

Exemption from Occupancy Tax in the state of California

As a general rule, University employees traveling on official University business are exempt from payment of occupancy taxes imposed by certain California cities or counties on "transient" (or individual travelers') rental rooms. To avoid misunderstandings, travelers should identify themselves as University employees and claim exemption from the tax when checking into the hotel. However, occupancy tax ordinances in a few California cities do not authorize exemptions for University employees. The traveler may complete an exemption certificate if one is required. The form Transient Occupancy Tax Exemption Certificate for Governmental Agencies is available to be used as appropriate.

Conference Registration

Receipts must have name of the individual, name of the conference, amount paid, and method of payment. If not, please submit credit card statement showing all of the items.

Best practices require original receipts for all expenses because reimbursements are based on actual expenses. Please note maximum meal rate is not a per diem.

The meal and incidental expense maximum is $79/day and there is no exception to the maximum. If meal receipts are lost or unavailable, the traveler may provide their best estimate of the actual meal expense.

When the entire length of a trip is less than 24 hours, (meals for single-day travel will not be reimbursed unless the travel includes an overnight stay that is verified by a lodging receipt.

Expenses for meals incurred by employees who hold working business meetings while traveling on University business are reimbursable in accordance with the University's policy on Expenditures for Business Meetings, Entertainment, and Other Occasions BUS-79 . Working business meetings held while traveling require the same documentation as other business meeting expense.

MAXIMUM RATES FOR MEALS AND LIGHT REFRESHMENTS

Ground transportation

Travelers are required to use the most economical mode (i.e. taxi, shuttle, train, bus) of transportation by the most frequently traveled route. If unsure, please contact Allynn Lewis .

The current mileage reimbursement rate effective is 65.5 cents per mile for use of a personal car on business travel and will be adjusted periodically to reflect increases/decreases in the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) standard mileage rate.

Please note the following:

• Privately owned automobiles may be used if the driver has requisite insurance coverage, Additional Travel Insurance Coverage
• UCLA ORA reimburses the lesser of round-trip airfare or mileage. The amount of the actual mileage or the lowest available airfare, whichever is less, is allowed. No additional reimbursement for automobile-related expenses, such as tolls, ferries, parking, gasoline, etc. will be allowed.
• Mileage claimed to dining venues or restaurants must be within reasonable distance from place of conference or hotel.
• Mileage to local meetings/conferences should be computed between the traveler’s work location and final destination. Mileage may be allowed between the traveler’s residence and destination if the business travel originates or terminates during a regularly scheduled day off.

For addition information, please refer to the “Travel Policy” link under Useful Travel Links .

All other related business expenses, such as baggage fees, internet fees and phone, are reimbursable with receipts. Business justification(s) may be required for certain requests.

How to Claim Reimbursement

Please submit all documents including the completed ORA Working Business Meeting Expense Form and the itemized receipts to Allynn Lewis within 5 business days after the event. All working business meeting expenses must be pre-approved by the director of the individual claiming a reimbursement.

Required Information

• Type of Expense (breakfast, lunch, dinner, refreshment)
• Type of Event (workshop, conference, staff recognition, etc.)
• Purpose of the event or main agenda topic
• Attendee list to include name, title, and affiliation of participants
• Date and location of event
• Name of the official host

Maximum per Person Rates

Meeting facilities on campus.

Business or professional events (room rental, catering, etc.) may be arranged using a pre-approved departmental account number. Please submit a completed ORA Working Business Meeting Expense Form and contact Lupe Romero before finalizing any arrangements.

As outlined by UC Policy G-28, the following list includes a brief summary of non-reimbursable expenses (This list is not all inclusive):

• Airfare issued by non-U.S. carrier
• Any upgrades above coach airfare
• Personal telephone calls
• Third party expenses (e.g., buying ticket and paying hotel/airfare and other expense on behalf of others)
• Out-of-route costs (e.g., a connecting flight/deviation from direct route for a personal business) – reimbursable expenses shall not exceed the cost of hotels, meals, and other expenses that would have been incurred on a direct route to the UCLA business destination.
• Internet package deals – refer to the airfare section for details.
• T&E Card Late Fees are not reimbursable
• Others – any other costs determined to be unreasonable or which are disallowed by University guidelines.

All University travelers are covered worldwide, 24 hours a day, for a variety of accidents and incidents while on business travel status. The coverage includes:

• Accidental death and dismemberment.
• Travel assistance services when the traveler is 100+ miles from his or her home or headquarters, such as emergency medical evacuation, out-of-country medical expenses, loss of personal effects, security extraction and repatriation of remains.

Booking travel through Connexxus automatically enrolls the traveler in the insurance program for travel outside of California; otherwise the traveler must register their trip on the UC Away website before an out-of-state trip occurs. Registration is not required for travel within California as coverage is automatic.

Use of the University's purchasing system is the first choice for direct payment. Use of employee’s personal funds for purchase of goods and services is strongly discouraged. Per LVO Policy 741 , $1,000 is the reimbursement limit for purchases, other than travel, working meetings, & conference registrations.

All documentation (i.e. itinerary , receipts, agenda)  related to the trip will be needed to process the reimbursement. Itemized receipts need to be submitted except for hotel and food. Per Diem rates for food and lodging are set according to the country and city of travel. Please complete the Expense Report Form and submit all related expenses to Allynn Lewis .

• Airline Discounts & Contract Rates
• Airport Parking Discounts & Contract Rates
• Expenditures for Business Meetings, Entertainment, and Other Occasions. BUS-79
• Car Rental Contract Rates
• FlyAway Service
• Hotel Discounts & Contract Rates
• Required Reimbursement Documents
• Travel & Entertainment Card (T&E)
• Expense Reimbursement Guidelines

Travel, Entertainment & Personal Reimbursements

Business travel, travel reimbursements, non-reimbursable travel expenses, travel insurance, entertainment.

• Travel & Entertainment Reimbursement Forms
• Travel Policy & Resources

Travelers are encouraged to use the UC Travel Center to make travel arrangements for your Business Trip.  The UC Travel Center offers discounts and negotiated contract rates with several air carriers to those flying on University business. Travelers are also eligible for state rates, which apply to government travelers.

UCLA Travel Center https://www.travel.ucla.edu/ UCLA Travel Counselors: (310) 206-2639 or (800) 235-UCLA (8252) UCLA Travel Counselors: Email: [email protected]

UCLA Travel Guidelines https://travel.ucla.edu/news-events/ucla-travel-guidelines/ UCLA Travel Resources Page https://www.travel.ucla.edu/additional-resources/

Departmental Response Times:

Your dedicated fully-remote staff will respond within 48 hours from the time they receive your request.

UCLA Travel Accounting Response Times (Travel Reimbursements):

It generally takes UCLA Travel Accounting 8-12  w eeks to process payments on all orders and reimbursements.  Please plan events and notify your vendors well in advance to avoid penalties or disallowances. 

TRAVEL POLICIES

• Direct Billed Airfare
• Personal Funds
• Payment on Behalf of Others
• Internet Package Deals
• Domestic Meals & Incidental Expenses
• Transportation
• Other Travel Expenses
• Foreign Per Diem
• Travel for 30 consecutive days or longer :  Please contact your assigned fund manager to discuss your travel plans prior to planning your trip.

University travelers can request reimbursements for travel expenses after the business trip is completed. All travel reimbursement requests must be submitted to Financial Services within 21 days of the completed trip.

For travel reimbursements submitted after 60 days of the travel or event, the total amount of travel expenses may be imputed as income to the employee on the employee’s W2 unless there is a reasonable justification for the late submission. In all cases, if the submission is made more than 6 months after the end of the trip or event, income will be imputed on the employee’s W-2.

• How to Claim Reimbursement (January 2022)
• Required Documentation for Travel Reimbursements (May 2023)

Concur/New Express (May 2021):

• UCLA Concur QRG – Adding Delegates
• UCLA Concur QRG – Acting as a Delegate
• UCLA Concur QRG – Creating a New Expense Report
• UCLA Concur QRG – Creating a Report for a Guest
• UCLA Concur QRG – Creating a Report from a Request
• UCLA Concur QRG – Creating and Submitting a Request
• UCLA Concur QRG – Updating Your Expense Profile
• UCLA Guest Profile Creation

As outlined by UC Policy G-28, the following list includes a brief summary of non-reimbursable expenses:

• Airfare issued by non-U.S. carrier
• First class airfare
• Personal telephone calls
• Tipping over 20%
• Rentals: GPS navigator charges
• Rentals: Vehicle upgrades
• Rentals: Renting large cars need strong justification (only rent compact or intermediate sized vehicles)
• Third party expenses (e.g., buying ticket and paying hotel/airfare and other expense on behalf of others)
• Out-of-route costs (e.g., a connecting flight/deviation from direct route for a personal business) – reimbursable expenses shall not exceed the cost of hotels, meals, and other expenses that would have been incurred on a direct route to the UCLA business destination.
• Internet package deals- see section in Business Travel section above
• T&E Card Late Fees are not reimbursable
• Others – any other costs determined to be unreasonable or which are disallowed by University guidelines.
• Meals when travel is less than 24 hours and does not involve hotel stay.

Travel Insurance & Emergencies :  UCLA Office of Insurance and Risk Management

• Safe Travels – Includes Emergency Number & Policy Numbers
• Student Travel Safety Passport – Includes Emergency Number & Policy Numbers

All University travelers, including employees, faculty and students, are covered worldwide, 24 hours a day, for a variety of accidents and incidents while on business travel status. The coverage includes accidental death and dismemberment. The coverage also includes travel assistance services when the traveler is 100+ miles from his or her home or headquarters, such as emergency medical evacuation, out-of-country medical expenses, loss of personal effects, security extraction and repatriation of remains.

The carrier, ACE USA, is highly rated and provides insurance products and services throughout the U.S. and around the world. In addition, ACE works with iJet Intelligent Risk Systems to provide travelers with practical destination intelligence and real-time travel alerts.

Booking travel through Connexxus automatically enrolls the traveler in the insurance program for travel outside of California; otherwise the traveler must register their trip on the  UC Trips  website and complete the  Traveler Insurance form  before an out-of-state trip occurs. Registration is not required for travel within California as coverage is automatic.

Business meals and entertainment expenditures in all instances must clearly identify the benefit to the University even when unrestricted funds are being used. University policy requires that documentation for entertainment should include a business purpose, cost, attendee list, and itemized receipts for reimbursement. In addition, the expenditure of funds for entertainment should be cost effective and in accordance with the best use of public funds.

• How to Place Entertainment Food Orders
• How-to-Claim-an-Entertainment-Reimbursement
• Entertainment Payment Process
• Approval of Advance Payment for Events
• Luskin Travel, Entertainment, & Reimbursement Form (v. 03.06.23)
• Travel Advance Request Template May 2023
• UCLA Travel Advance Form May 2023
• Travel Voucher May 2023
• Missing Receipt Affidavit May 2023

Travel Policy & Resources

G-28, Policy and Regulations Governing Travel BUS-79, Expenditures for Entertainment, Business Meetings & Other Occasions BUS-81, Insurance Programs Travel Security & Health Coverage Benefits

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Travel Guidelines

Travel Guidelines for Faculty, Postdocs, Staff, and Students. We want to take a moment to share with you some helpful tips to facilitate your travel arrangements and reimbursements.  Below, please find a few of these items:

• Travel reimbursement requests will need to be submitted through the department’s online order system (via Create New Travel / Entertainment Reimbursement ) within 30 days after the end of the trip  to allow our staff time to prepare the reimbursement report in Concur for submission to Travel Accounting before the 45-day University deadline.

Complex Travel Arrangements:

• Please consult with the department staff  before any trips, including foreign travel, travel longer than 30 days, or travel incorporating mixed business and personal itineraries.

Travel Reimbursements :

• Request and retain itemized receipts for all expenses, including registration fees, economy airfare without upgrades, car rental, and lodging.  Many funders require documentation, and if there is an audit after the fact, charges may be deemed unallowable, and faculty would be responsible for all of these charges.    More information can be found here.
• Additional insurance and collision damage waiver for rental cars is not reimbursable.   More rental information can be found here.
• Daily meals and incidental expenses (M&IE) are capped at $74 per day.  Lodging expenses must not exceed the allowable federal rate for the city or region.  More info can be found here.
• Alcohol is  not  a reimbursable travel expense. Similarly, reimbursement for purchases made on behalf of other individuals is not allowable.
• Tips are limited to 20% or less.
• Discounted travel packages through fare aggregators such as Expedia and Kayak require itemized receipts with a detailed breakdown of all expenses for University reimbursement.  More information can be found here.

UCLA Travel Accounting Resources :

• More detail can be found in the condensed  UCLA Travel Guidelines  and the definitive  UC Policy G-28 Travel Regulations . In addition, the department’s faculty assistants are experienced travel arrangers and knowledgeable regarding travel reimbursement policies. If you need help planning your trip, you can find  more information here .

• Open Search box

Hotel Booking : The University has negotiated special rates at several nationwide hotel chains:  Marriot, Starwood, and Wyndham.  Discount codes and additional information can be found here .  Additionally, the UCLA Travel Center has negotiated rates at individual properties.  Lodging reservations can be made by contacting the Travel Center via email or phone.

Reimbursement : Travelers seeking domestic lodging reimbursement must submit the request using the Travel Express reimbursement system .  All of the following documentation must be provided:

• Original, itemized receipt showing a zero balance due
• Proof of payment
• Business purpose of the travel

Additional Notes :

• The University cannot reimburse for travel package deals purchased from internet vendors (e.g. Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz) unless an itemization of each expense type can be provided.
• Different guidelines apply for lodging expenses relating to foreign travel.  Please see our Foreign Travel section for more information.
• Several cities in California allow exemption from occupancy taxes for University employees on business travel.  Details can be found at the UCLA Travel website .

Updated 5/4/11

• Useful Links
• Travel Accounting
• Corporate Accounting
• UCLA Business & Finance Policies
• UCOP Business & Finance Policies

Useful Guides

• Anderson 101 - Travel & Entertainment (PDF)
• Travel Policy Reference Guide
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Use the resources on this page for information on special rates and services available to UCLA travelers.

The UCLA Travel Center offers discounts and negotiated contract rates with several air carriers to those flying on University business. Click the links below to obtain more information. In addition to airline tickets, Amtrak Rail is available for booking through Connexxus . 

Hotels listed are properties that have served university travelers in the past. UCLA Travel also offers a full range of ground transportation options, including discounted rates for rental vehicles.

General Travel Information

Transportation Guidelines Discounts & Contract Rates How to Plan Your Trip New to UCLA Travel? Frequent Traveler Travel Reservations by Campus All About Connexxus Trip Insurance Registration

 Ground Travel

Car Rental Contract Rates Mileage & Fuel Expenses Car Service Discounts Airport Parking Discounts & Contract Rates Guidelines for Renting Campus Vehicles Amtrak California Thruway Service to Westwood FlyAway Bus Service from UCLA to LAX

Airline Discounts & Contract Rates Service Fees for Airline Tickets Pre-Trip Authorization for Direct-Billed Airfare Online Airline Check-In

Hotel Discounts & Contract Rates Meals & Lodging Expenses Foreign Lodging Per Diem Rates

10920 Wilshire Blvd., 5th Floor Los Angeles, CA 90024-6541 Mail Code: 143348 Phone: (310) 206-2639 or (800) 235-UCLA (8252)

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• How To Process Payments for Non-Citizens
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Alien - Travel Overview

Under University of California Travel Policy, reimbursement of expenses for lodging, meals, transportation and related expenses are allowed to an individual travelling for business purposes on behalf of the University.

Whether or not a nonresident may receive reimbursement for travel expenses and subsistence expenses is governed by the Immigration and Nationality Act and regulations promulgated by the U.S. Citizenship and Immigration and Services (USCIS). As a result, it is essential to determine the immigration status of any alien receiving payment from UCLA in order to comply with USCIS regulations.

Failure to comply with these rules and regulations can result in the imposition of substantial fines and penalties by the USCIS. In addition, an institution which knowingly violates the provisions of the Immigration and Nationality Act may be debarred from receiving Federal contracts pursuant to President Clinton’s Executive Order 12989, dated February 13, 1996.

At UCLA, Travel Services is responsible for reviewing and processing all reimbursements for travel expenses as well as the moving costs associated with relocation of new hired employees. Questions related to UC Travel Policy and allowable reimbursement of expenses should be directed to Travel Services (310) 20 6-2639  or (800) 235-UCLA (8252). More information regarding UC Travel requirements can be found in the Travel Policies & Resources link in Related Information.

Tax Implications 

Payments made to, or on behalf of, nonresident alien individuals for the purpose of defraying or reimbursing the deductible travel and lodging expenses and are not reportable to the Internal Revenue Service as long as the requirements of the Accountable Plan rules are met. Please see Accountable Plan Rules link in Related Information.

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AASC Supervisors can use this form to submit all HR/Payroll related requests for their employees to the CM Unit for processing and approval.

FINANCIAL FORMS

Travel Reimbursement Form

Use this form to request reimbursement of travel expenses (i.e., travel expenses incurred from traveling on official business trips).

• Benefits include direct billing, discounted pricing, trip insurance, policy compliance, etc.
• Business Justification of the trip
• Flight Details , i.e., airline name, airport locations, flight times, flight numbers, etc.
• Fund Sources , e.g., fund/account number, project name, grant name, etc.
• ✔ Update/review your profile in the UCLA Concur System to ensure accuracy of your personal information (see Update Your Profile for instructions).
• ✔ Add Roland Fang as your expense delegate in the UCLA Concur System (see Update Your Profile for instructions).
• ✔ Legal Name (First, Middle, Last), as appeared on government photo ID
• ✔ Date of Birth
• ✔ Gender
• ✔ Email Address
• ✔ Phone Number
• ✔ U.S. Mailing Address
• This is how you will receive travel reimbursement, if any, from UCLA.
• If Zelle, must also indicate the email address or phone number linked to your Zelle account.
• ✔ Frequent Flyer Number (if any)
• Package deals purchased through internet booking agencies rarely provide an itemized breakdown of all expenses and applicable taxes.
• If an itemized breakdown of expenses cannot be provided, UCLA cannot reimburse the expenses.
• Business class and first-class airfares are not reimbursable unless you have obtained advance approval with an approved justification, such as a doctor's note.
• For example, when traveling for business from UCLA to NorCal, the traveler should travel by air, not by driving a personal car and claiming mileage unless an exception approval has been obtained prior to travel.
• The current mileage reimbursement rate , as of January 1, 2023 , is 65.5 cents per mile .
• Do not accept additional collision, accidental death, or medical insurance when renting a car for business travel, as these expenses are not reimbursable.
• For more details regarding transportation, visit Transportation Guidelines .
• Consult with AASC prior to traveling if your trips involve foreign or long-term (30 days or more) travel.
• Expenses cannot be reimbursed prior to the completion of trips or events.
• Expenses paid with travel credit, prepaid balance, vouchers, gift cards, and/or rewards redemption are not reimbursable.
• Travel expenses paid on behalf of others are not reimbursable.
• Tips should not exceed 20% of the transaction costs.
• Maximum meal and incidental expenses (M&IE) allowed are actual up to $79 per day .
• When the entire length of a trip is less than 24 hours , M&IE cannot be reimbursed unless the travel includes an "overnight stay" as supported by a lodging receipt.
• Maximum lodging expenses allowed are actual up to $275 per night , before taxes and mandatory hotel fees.
• Regardless of the length of travel, the traveler must be at least 40 miles away from UCLA or home, whichever is closer , to be reimbursed for overnight lodging expenses.
• For Non-Continental US Travel , i.e., travel within Alaska, Hawaii, and U.S. territories, consult with AASC prior to traveling for the latest M&IE and lodging rates allowed.
• UCLA employees will receive their travel reimbursement via the same method they normally receive their UCLA paychecks.
• Travel reimbursement requests must be submitted to AASC for processing within 21 days upon the conclusion of the trips.
• Exception: Those traveling on UC business for 30 days or more are required to report multiple and periodic expense reports.
• Airfare receipts must also show the traveler names and the flight details .
• Registration receipts for events, such as conferences, seminars, workshops, etc., must also show the event names, dates, and locations .
• Tip: You can save an email or a webpage via Print->Save as PDF .
• For more detailed information and guidelines regarding Travel, visit UCLA Travel Services , UCLA Travel Guidelines , UCLA Travel Resources , Reimbursement Allowances , and UC Policy G-28 Travel Regulations .

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This page explains the policies related to travel and reimbursements. If you are a speaker or funded participant for an IPAM program, please review your invitation letter for terms of your funding and review the travel and reimbursement information below.

TRAVEL AND REIMBURSEMENTS

Our primary funding is from the National Science Foundation (NSF). We conform to University and Federal guidelines for the processing of payments and reimbursements. The following summarizes IPAM travel and reimbursement policies. These guidelines are for your information, and actual reimbursements are based on the allowable amounts pre-approved by IPAM for each individual.

If IPAM offered to reimburse your travel expenses, this offer is contingent on you obtaining appropriate immigration status from the U.S. Citizenship and Immigration Services (USCIS). Please note that travel, visa, and reimbursement rules may change. While every effort is made to keep this web site current, please carefully read all email communication from IPAM, as it may contain updated guidance. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.

Short-term visits (9 days or less)

The majority of our foreign participants travel on a business visa (B-1, or WB if using the ESTA/visa-waiver program). If you travel on a tourist visa (B-2, or WT if using the ESTA/visa waiver program), we will not be able to reimburse your expenses if you received reimbursements from more than 5 US institutions in the previous 6-month period, or if your stay ends up exceeding 9 days.

Medium-term stays (over 9 days, and 28 days or less)

If you are traveling under the ESTA/visa waiver program, please make sure to obtain a WB (business) visa. Upon entry to the US, please inform the US Customs and Border Patrol agent that the purpose of your visit is business.

If you will be traveling on an B visa that you obtained previously, please make sure that your visa is B-1 (business). Expenses for stays beyond 9 days cannot be reimbursed if traveling on a B-2 (tourist) visa, and there are additional limitations.

If you are not traveling under an ESTA/visa wavier program, and require a new paper visa from a US consulate, it is recommended that you obtain a J visa, which IPAM can sponsor. Please contact us for more information.

Special rule for graduate students: all visits to IPAM of over 21 days in duration require that you obtain the Visiting Graduate Researcher (VGR) status from UCLA, and travel on a J visa. Please contact us for more information to initiate this process.

Longer term stays (over 28 days)

For all of our longer-term visitors, we recommend that you obtain a J visa, which IPAM will sponsor. Please contact us for more information.

Due to complex US regulations, in case of longer stays we discourage travel on the ESTA/visa waiver program, as this may affect our ability to reimburse your expenses. Please note that all visits under the visa waiver program are limited to 90 days, which is less than the duration of our semester-long programs.

Special rule for graduate students: all long-term visits require that you obtain the Visiting Graduate Researcher (VGR) status from UCLA, and travel on a J visa. Please contact us for more information to initiate this process.

Undergraduate students participating in RIPS: please see the RIPS web page for visa information, since special rules apply to your situation.

If you work or study in the US

In most cases, no further paperwork is needed for your visit. Please consult your universities foreign scholars office for more information. Special rule for graduate students: to visit IPAM for more than 21 days, you need to obtain a Visiting Graduate Student (VGR) status from UCLA. Students at other UC campuses qualify for a different status. Please contact us for more information and to initiate the process.

Undocumented aliens/DACA

Please contact us to discuss your situation.

If you have additional visa related questions, please email IPAM’s Visa Coordinator .

Reimbursement Process:

Reimbursements are based on offer letters unless alternate arrangements have been made and prior approval has been granted. Reimbursements will reflect actual costs and are reimbursed after trip completion. Information on UCLA policies on business travel can be found on their website at  UCLA Travel Department .

Travel receipts, with proof of payment (ex. Paid VISA XXXX), should be submitted during your visit to IPAM. IPAM must submit receipts and documents to UCLA Travel Accounting within  45 days from completion of the trip. Receipts and documents must be submitted promptly. We will require justifications for late submissions. The reimbursement may be treated as imputed income and become taxable. Two additional forms will be required that request general information such as legal name, mailing address and immigration status, if applicable. There are currently two methods of payments available, Check or Zelle. Check payments will be sent via U.S. Postal Services to the mailing address provided. Zelle payments are the fastest way to receive reimbursements, we will require confirmation that your bank account is equipped to receive Zelle payments.

For international participants: Please confirm with your banking institute that they can process US dollar checks. If your banking institute confirms that they cannot deposit a US dollar check, please contact us right away for further consultation [email protected] .

After all relevant documents are received, they are reviewed and submitted to the UCLA Central Offices (Travel Accounting/Accounts Payable). Once received by the Central Offices, it will take approximately 21 business days for processing. Reimbursements may take longer for international participants. The process can be delayed if the documentation does not pass audit based on University and Federal Guidelines.

• OTHER TRAVEL
• OTHER EXPENSES

The Federal Travel Regulation requires U.S. carriers except as authorized under the Open Skies Agreement.   Travelers must purchase coach/economy or equivalent fares and are encouraged to take advantage of discounts on air tickets purchased in advance. Please email the  IPAM Finance Department  with questions.

International Travel:  In order to receive reimbursement for your airline ticket from IPAM funds, your flight must be in compliance with the Fly America Act and the Open Skies Agreement. Your trip must be ticketed by a U.S. airline or authorized under the  Open Skies Agreement  or we cannot reimburse you for the flight.

Code Sharing:  Code sharing occurs when two or more airlines “code” the same flight as if it was their own. For example, a U.S. airline may sell a seat on the plane of a foreign air carrier. The flight numbers must have the code from a U.S. airline (e.g., “UA” for United Airlines, “DL” for Delta, etc.). As long as the flight is ticketed by the U.S. carrier, it does not matter which airline operates the flight. The ticket or documentation for an electronic ticket must identify the U.S. carrier’s designator code and flight number.

Please note – There are over 100 Open Skies Agreements, but only 4 meet Fly America conditions:

• European Union (28 countries: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Iceland and Norway)
• Switzerland

Common FAQs:

• EU:  If you are traveling from the EU, you may use either a US carrier or an EU carrier as long as they land in an EU country.
• CANADA:  Canada is not part of the Open Skies Agreement, so flights on Air Canada, WestJet and Porter Airlines are unallowable on federal awards.

  What are the allowable exceptions under the Fly America Act? The exceptions are:

• When a U.S. air carrier is not available.
• When the use of a U.S. carrier would extend travel time by 24 hours or more.
• Increases the number of aircraft changes outside the United States by two or more.
• Extends travel time by at least six hours or more.
• Requires a connecting time of four hours or more at an overseas interchange point.
• Short Distance Travel – When the flight time from origin to destination is less than 3 hours and the use of a U.S. flag carrier doubles the time en-route.
• When there is an applicable Open Skies Agreement in effect which the Department of Transportation states meets the requirements of the FAA.

Travelers should check the  GSA sites  for the most up-to-date information.

Please email the  IPAM Finance Department  with further questions.

Lodging expenses are reimbursed based on the amount actually incurred within the allowable amount stated in the invitation letter. Generally lodging is not reimbursable if the lodging site is within a 40-mile radius of the traveler’s residence or office.

Hotels : We reimburse for room and tax charges only. For a list of local hotels and their rates, please visit IPAM Hotels . For participants not electing to stay at one of our designated hotels, IPAM covers up to $245.00 per night including taxes. For a five-day workshop, IPAM generally offers six nights of hotel expenses to funded participants. For international participants, staying in Los Angeles on a Saturday night will often reduce airfares. If this is the case, send an email to the IPAM Finance Department before your visit and explain the situation.

Apartment Rental : Most Long Program participants arrange for a monthly apartment/housing rental. Generally we cannot process the reimbursement until after the first 30 days has elapsed; allow approximately 14 business days for processing after we receive all receipts. You can expect payment approximately 6 weeks after the day you arrive at IPAM. The final rent reimbursement payment will be mailed to the address you provide.

For housing reimbursement, you must submit a copy of your rental agreement, along with a copy of your rental check or credit card statement. You must also include documentation of proof of payment – that is, proof that your rental check has been cashed. If you are given a paper receipt, the issuer should indicate the form of payment. A copy of the front and back of the check of the cancelled check is sufficient.

Other Travel

Ground Transportation: For taxi, shuttle, train, bus, and all other ground transportation expenses, receipts are required. Travelers are required to use the most economical mode of transportation by the most frequently traveled route.

Automobiles: Privately owned automobiles may be used if the driver has requisite insurance coverage. IPAM reimburses the lesser of round-trip air fare or mileage. When used on routes served by a common carrier, the amount of the actual mileage or the lowest available airfare, whichever is less, is allowed. The mileage reimbursement rate we offer conforms to Internal Revenue Service (IRS) guidelines .  No additional reimbursement for automobile-related expenses, such as tolls, ferries, parking, gasoline, etc. are allowed.

Rental Car: IPAM does not reimburse for car rentals. An exception to this policy must be pre-approved by IPAM with appropriate justification.

Other Expenses

Our website includes general information about common expenses; individual cases may include other reimbursable expenditures. Please contact the IPAM Finance Department with any questions or special circumstance.

Non-Reimbursable Expenses: IPAM cannot reimburse participants for the following expenses.

• Airfare issued by non-U.S. carrier except as authorized under the Open Skies Agreement
• First class or business class airfare
• 3rd party (e.g., buying ticket and paying hotel/air fare and other expenses on behalf of others)
• Per diem and meals unless authorized in advance
• Out-of-route costs involving personal business, leave or convenience. Where there is an interruption of travel or deviation from direct route, reimbursable expenses shall not exceed the cost that would have been incurred on a direct route to the destination
• Expenses incurred when not conducting IPAM business, such as extra days taken as leave before or after scheduled business and personal telephone calls
• Any other costs determined to be unreasonable or which are disallowed by Federal Travel Regulations or University guidelines

If you are a long program participant receiving a stipend, your paperwork will be processed once you arrive at IPAM. You can expect the first payment from 25-30 days after the paperwork is submitted to accounting. It is important that you have either a social security number or a tax ID number. Otherwise, an automatic 30% will be withheld from your stipends.

If you are a non U.S. citizen, your taxes will be processed through a software program called Glacier, a nonresident tax compliance system that was adopted by UCLA. You must be on the appropriate visa to receive a stipend.

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Coordinates: 55.7574,37.6133

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The Slate Hotel Denver Downtown, Tapestry by Hilton

Rating: 4.5 out of 5.0

Arrival Time

A vibrant location in downtown Denver

Formerly the Emily Griffith Opportunity School, our hotel is across the street from the Colorado Convention Center. We’re less than a mile from 16th Street Mall, Larimer Square, and the theatre district. Our dedicated event team, hybrid technology, and naturally lit space make us perfect for meetings. Our restaurant offers patio seating and private dining.

Our amenities

Connecting Rooms

Non-smoking rooms

Digital Key

Streaming TV

On-site restaurant

Fitness center

Pet-friendly rooms

Room service

Meeting rooms

Rooms and suites

Hilton Honors member benefits

Hilton Honors Discount rate

Points toward free nights and more

Choose Your Room

Digital Check-In

Hilton Honors Experiences

Hotel policies

Not available

100% non smoking

Free in-room and lobby WiFi

Dining and drinks

Teachers' Lounge Food + Drink

Just off the great room of the historic Emily Griffith schoolhouse, the Teachers' Lounge Food + Drink offers the chef's contemporary take on classic dishes, along with a distinctly curated wine offering, craft cocktails, and local brews. The Teachers' Lounge also offers relaxing patio seating or private salon space for our guests.

Monday – Friday

6 am – 11 pm

Monday through Friday 6 am through 11 pm

Saturday – Sunday

7 am – 11 pm

Saturday through Sunday 7 am through 11 pm

Group travel and events

Location and transportation.

Airport shuttle

Moscow hotels

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Search by review score, search by price, search by freebies, good to know, when to book a hotel in moscow, top tips for finding moscow hotel deals.

• If you’re looking for a cheap hotel in Moscow, you should consider visiting during the low season. You'll find cheaper hotels in Moscow in October and January.
• Hotel room prices vary depending on many factors but you’ll most likely find the best hotel deals in Moscow if you stay on a Saturday. The opposite is true for, Wednesday, which is usually the most expensive day.
• How long should you stay? KAYAK users usually book their hotel in Moscow for 3 days.
• Moscow is a vast city. If you would like to be within walking distance of key attractions, look for hotels near Red Square and the Kremlin, such as the Assambleya Nikitskaya Hotel.
• For cheap accommodation in Moscow, consider the Partizanskaya area, which features a good choice of budget hotels near a metro station, including Vega Hotel & Convention Center.
• There are many 5-star luxury hotels in the cultural heart of Moscow. The Four Seasons Hotel Moscow and The St. Regis Moscow Nikolskaya are two excellent examples.
• Stylish boutique hotels are also in abundance in the city centre. Hotels such as the Golden Apple Boutique Hotel and Assambleya Nikitskaya Hotel put you near Red Square and The Kremlin.
• Arbat Street forms the heart of Moscow’s Arbat District, the oldest part of the city, and is home to myriad affordable accommodation, such as Karlov Most Hostel.
• A great area for nightlife is Kitay-Gorod, where an array of bars, restaurants, and nightclubs join a wide selection of hotels to suit all budgets, such as the cheap Good Mood Hostel or boutique Golden Apple Boutique Hotel.

FAQs when booking a hotel in Moscow

Are there good hotels near moscow airport.

There are three major international airports serving Moscow: Sheremetyevo International Airport, Moscow Domodedovo Airport, and Vnukovo International Airport. Several hotels are located within the vicinity of each airport. Good choices include Novotel Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport, Ramada Moscow Domodedovo, and Vnukovo Green Palace Hotel.

Which hotels in Moscow offer especially good views?

A number of luxury hotels in the city centre boast spectacular views. Two excellent choices are the Ararat Park Hyatt Moscow and the Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow, which both offer breathtaking vistas of the Kremlin, Red Square and St. Basil's Cathedral from guest rooms and restaurants.

What hotels in Moscow offer especially good breakfast?

The sophisticated and excellently-rated Villa Kadashi Boutique Hotel situated in the Yakimanka district, across the river from Red Square, offers an excellent continental breakfast with fresh pastries and juice to complement hearty egg and sausage dishes. Meanwhile, Warsaw Hotel, situated a 10-minute walk from Gorky Park, offers a free breakfast buffet.

Which neighbourhoods are close to Moscow’s central station?

Travellers departing for St. Petersburg will be voyaging out of Leningradsky Station in northeast Moscow. The city’s oldest railway terminal, the station is surrounded by a wide selection of accommodation. Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya is a top-rated option with a swimming pool, sauna, and fitness room.

What hotel area is especially good for shopping in Moscow?

Moscow’s Arbat District or Old Arbat features a network of historic streets that are lined with shops selling local souvenirs and handicrafts. There are many hotels in this area, such as the 4-star Mercure Arbat Moscow, and the city centre is only a short metro ride away. Alternatively, GUM is an iconic shopping arcade situated directly on Red Square.

Where to stay in Moscow?

Those looking for a hotel in Moscow on KAYAK tend to search in Tverskoy District , Arbat District and in close proximity to Luzhniki Stadium.

What are the best hotels near Luzhniki Stadium?

If you are looking for a hotel close to Luzhniki Stadium, you should consider staying at Hills Hotel , Luzhniki and ibis Moscow Kievskaya , as they are the most recommended by KAYAK users.

Which freebies do KAYAK users look for when booking a hotel in Moscow?

KAYAK users look for a hotel in Moscow with free breakfast.

How do I find a hotel in central Moscow?

After you launch a hotel search on KAYAK, you can refine your research by neighborhood, which allows you to pick the central Moscow districts. You can also do a search using the city map to choose a specific location, like Moscow city center.

How can I find hotels near me?

Take a look at our extensive hotel map to find the best hotels near you.

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Landmarks in Moscow

• Hotels near Solovetsky Stone, Moscow
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• Hotels near Red Square, Moscow
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• Hotels near Dormition Cathedral, Moscow
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Neighborhoods in Moscow

• Hotels in Arbat District, Moscow
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• Hotels in Eastern Administrative Okrug, Moscow
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• Hotels in Northern Administrative Okrug, Moscow
• Hotels in Presnensky District, Moscow
• Hotels in South-Eastern Administrative Okrug, Moscow
• Hotels in South-Western Administrative, Moscow
• Hotels in Southern Administrative Okrug, Moscow
• Hotels in Tagansky District, Moscow
• Hotels in Tverskoy District, Moscow
• Hotels in Western Administrative Okrug, Moscow
• Hotels in Yakimanka District, Moscow
• Hotels in Zamoskvorechye District, Moscow

Moscow, city of fire and ice

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MOSCOW — Once I came to Moscow to cover an urban ballooning expedition. In winter. But when the balloonists came face to frigid, wind-lashed face with the winter here — well, we never got off the ground.

And so, as icy gales scoured the city, I strolled near the Moskva River until I faced a vast, low-hovering cloud, lighted from within, scented with chlorine and cigarettes. Occasionally, a near-naked Muscovite would emerge, dripping, and wander off to look for a towel and his pants.

This, I learned, was central Moscow’s only heated outdoor public swimming pool, full of sloshing Russians. Later, I heard it had once been the site of a church, and there were rumors of some kind of curse. But to me, in early 1990, with the Soviet Union on the verge of collapse and Moscow full of features that I couldn’t begin to understand, this one made me smile. I wanted to jump in — another idea that never got off the ground.

Then last winter, on my way to a pre-Olympics assignment in Sochi, Russia, I landed again in Moscow, pelted by snow, numbed by wind. It was different. It was better.

For a tourist, anyway. Moscow, draped in snow and twinkling with unevenly distributed material wealth, is an amazing spectacle, whether or not you came of age during the Cold War. Besides all the new money, the westward cultural tilt and the wacky theme restaurants that have turned up in post-Soviet days, the city remains rich with architecture and art that go back centuries. And the Muscovites are so good at winter! One afternoon I watched a woman in a fur hat cross an icy sidewalk, hop over a slushy gutter and hail a taxi with all the elegance of a figure skater on a freshly prepped rink.

This is not to say that Russia is easy in any season. Many travelers are repelled by the anti-gay “propaganda” law adopted by the country’s legislators in 2013. Others are wary of terrorism in the run-up to the Olympics. More on the law and terrorism at https://www.lat.ms/1hFpU3u .

Then there’s the red tape. In trip planning, I heard nyet so often that I had to visit San Francisco (to get my journalist visa in time from the Russian Consulate there) and Beverly Hills (because Aeroflot would let me change my ticket only if I came to its office).

And then, once you arrive, you confront some of Europe’s stiffest prices and a legion of cashiers and waiters who want nothing to do with your American Express card.

Still, if you go, wintry Moscow will open your eyes. Before I update you on the swimming pool (yes, I went back) and before the Olympics begin in Sochi on Friday (and run through Feb. 23), here are a few questions and answers about a city where no snow-making equipment has ever been necessary. As we go, bear in mind what my translator and guide, Svetlana Gaikovich, told me on our first day:

“Moscow is not Russia. Moscow is a small country within Russia. A showcase.”

Do I have to start in Red Square like every other tourist?

Yes. Stand out front and gawk at the domes and turrets and statues of St. Basil’s Cathedral, which dates to the 16th century. Pay for a tour behind the walls of the Kremlin next door, where three more cathedrals wait, including the 15th century Assumption Cathedral, whose interior — martyrs on the pillars, Christ on the iconostasis — makes St. Basil’s gaudy exterior look like a blank slate.

Across the square from the Kremlin you have GUM, an arcade-style, three-level, 1890s department store formerly run by the government. Now GUM is a retail fantasy land, privately owned since 2005 by a group led by the ubiquitous luxury retailer Bosco di Ciliegi.

Only an oligarch could pay the prices at the GUM Tiffany and Burberry shops, but that’s not so different from Fifth Avenue in New York. And the holiday lights and displays are about as remarkable. What you won’t find on Fifth Avenue is GUM’s Stolovaya 57, a bustling restaurant that mimics a 1957 Soviet factory cafeteria all the way down to its plates of “herring in a fur coat.” (That’s herring and potatoes with beets and carrots. Better than it sounds.)

If you can afford it, sleep in one of the new or redone hotels near the square. Since 2007, Ritz-Carlton has been on a site once dominated by a grim Intourist hotel. In late 2011, the Intercontinental Hotel Tverskaya replaced the former Minsk Hotel. The old Hotel Moskva, a landmark that was built in the 1930s and razed in about 2004, has been replaced by a new Hotel Moskva, run by Four Seasons, due to open in mid-2014.

I stayed at the Hotel Metropol, an Art Nouveau landmark built in 1901. Every day, heading down to fortify myself at the breakfast buffet, I passed pictures of previous guests such as Vladimir Lenin, George Bernard Shaw, Bertolt Brecht and Michael Jackson.

Why am I hearing Louis Armstrong?

That’s the sound of the Red Square winter skating rink, a block from the Metropol. “What a Wonderful World” was playing as I stepped up. In the center of the ice, a couple was kissing. (All this, by the way, is two snowball tosses from Lenin’s Mausoleum.)

But don’t do all your skating in Red Square. Head instead to Gorky Park, which is so much more than a 1981 detective novel by Martin Cruz Smith. It’s 300 acres along the river, redesigned in 2011 to banish that bedraggled-old-fairgrounds feeling. In winter there are ice sculptures, light displays, playfully decorated Georgian food huts, hockey games, art installations, wedding parties and mini-slopes for snowboarders. The skating rink and linked paths cover more than 4 acres. If there’s a better place to insinuate yourself among hordes of happy Russians, I haven’t found it yet.

Will they keep me warm?

No. Your warmest option in Moscow is the ornately appointed Sanduny Baths, the oldest bathhouse in the city, about a mile from Red Square, where I half-melted a pair of glasses. (It would have been wiser to leave them outside the sauna.)

Another option is an 18th century mansion now known as Café Pushkin. It used to be a pharmacist’s home and office. The upstairs “library” area, appointed with bookshelves, globes and waiters who hover, is where plutocrats break bread with politicians. My lunch there was the biggest splurge of my trip (almost $150 for two people), but the mushroom soup and salmon-stuffed dumplings were terrific.

You said something about art. It’s not all icons, is it?

Well, icons are basically all Russian artists did from the 11th to 18th centuries, so you’ll see plenty at the State Tretyakov Gallery, along with brilliant later portraits and landscapes. In the New Tretyakov, at a separate location, there’s a statue garden of cast-off Soviet heroes (many Lenins, one Brezhnev, no Stalins).

But the surprise, art-wise, is Red October, a bohemian neighborhood that has arisen since 2006 in a former Red October chocolate factory across the river from the Kremlin. Tenants include the Lumière Brothers Center for Photography (opened 2010); Red October Gallery (opened 2012); Strelka Institute for Media, Architecture and Design; and several nightclubs and restaurants, including a hipster café called Produkti, whose tattooed and perforated patrons could slouch into any coffeehouse in Eagle Rock.

Look up. What’s that enormous metal thing rising over Red October and the river?

It’s a sculpture of Peter the Great, father of the Russian navy and czar of Russia from 1682 to 1725. It’s taller than the Statue of Liberty (more than 300 feet) and was unveiled in 1997. The nicest thing I can say is that it’s really big.

And across the river ... . Wait. What happened to the big, round pool?

Remember how we used to hear of Soviet big shots appearing and disappearing from official photos as their fortunes rose and fell? Well, before it ever held a swimming pool, that plot of land held the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, completed in 1883 to commemorate Russia’s resilience during Napoleon’s attack and retreat in the early 19th century. It was a central figure in the Moscow skyline, the exterior topped by five golden domes, the interior walls crowded with frescoes.

Then came the revolution. Russia’s atheist government blew up the cathedral on Dec. 5, 1931 — leveled it — and started laying plans to raise a statue of Vladimir Lenin 1,600 feet tall — big enough to make today’s Peter the Great look like a Disney dwarf.

But then came the Great Patriotic War (World War II), which killed more than 20 million Russians. By the time it was over, nobody was ready to put up a 1,600-foot Lenin. And so in 1958, that massive pre-construction hole in the ground was converted into a big, round swimming pool — the pool I saw in 1990.

The end. Right?

Wrong. In the early 1990s, as the Soviet Union was falling apart, church leaders started lobbying to have the pool filled in and the church rebuilt. Finally the government said yes. Donations poured in. Construction went up. By 2000 the cathedral was born again, 338 feet tall.

The snow was falling hard and fast when I arrived at the site last winter. I spent a minute outside, sniffing for chlorine, before stepping inside under the vibrant frescoes and those five golden domes.

Clearly, Russia’s leaders and the Russian Orthodox Church are getting along better these days. In fact, that’s why the women of Pussy Riot staged their protest/prayer/performance in this church on Feb. 21, 2012 — to decry Vladimir Putin’s power.

I’m staying out of that conversation. For a stranger who drops by every 24 years or so, the cathedral is striking enough as a 338-foot-high reminder of how far a society can shift in a single generation — and then shift again. Who can be sure what this real estate will stand for, spiritually, culturally, politically, in another generation?

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Born and raised in California, Christopher Reynolds has written about travel, the outdoors, arts and culture for the Los Angeles Times since 1990.

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