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Review of La Tour d’Argent’s Wine List

When La Tour d’Argent lost its second Michelin star a few years ago, continuing its slide down the ranking of top French restaurants, television crews were camped outside for days. Its food may not be what it once was, but this Left Bank institution is as newsworthy as ever. To many people, it is the most famous eaterie in the capital, a four hundred year old restaurant that continues to attract actors, musicians, business leaders, politicians and the Parisian beau monde.

The food isn’t bad, just a little predictable and pricey at E180 for the tasting menu. No matter. There are still two things that make a visit to La Tour d’Argent unforgettable. The first is the jaw-dropping view from the sixth floor dining room, taking in Notre Dame, Sacré Coeur, the Centre Beaubourg and the quais of the Left Bank.

The second is the wine list, which can justifiably claim to be the greatest in France. So extensive is the 450,000 bottle selection that guests have been known to arrive two hours early at La Tour d’Argent, just to read a part of it before dinner. If I tell you that the full list weighs a bicep-straining 9kg, you’ll have some idea of its dimensions.

For lovers of great French wines, there is no better place to drink. To take only two examples, the warren of cellars contains thirty-five vintages of Château Cheval Blanc and ninety-five different Montrachet Grands Crus. The same strength in depth applies to virtually every top wine from Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Loire, Alsace and the Rhône, with vintages dating back to the late-19th in some cases.

La Tour d’Argent specialises in old wines. And when I say specialise, I mean it. Apart from a youthful Aligoté (used to make Kir) and the excellent non vintage house Champagne, the youngest wine on the list, red or white, is a 2003. “If I can’t keep a wine for 20 years,” says the restaurant’s wry English chef sommelier, David Ridgway, “then I don’t really want to buy it.” Maturity is not always an easy sell, mind you. “Apart from here,” he adds, “the people who like to drink older wines in restaurants are probably drinking bad older wines, and that can put them off.”

Patience, good provenance and temperature-controlled storage conditions are the key. La Tour d’Argent buys nearly all of its own wines young, storing them until Ridgway considers they are ready. The list does contain younger vintages, tantalisingly held “en vieillissement” in the cellars, but these are off limits to diners. One punter apparently offered $1000 to drink a youthful, if highly praised, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and was turned down.

Unless you know a fair bit about wine it’s hard to know where to start with such a list. It is arranged by region and appellation, starting with the youngest vintage and descending, step by venerable step, into the past, but there are no tasting notes and no indication as to the style of the wines.

That’s where Ridgway comes in. Each week he makes a personal selection of 20 or so bottles that he thinks are at their peak, which certainly cuts the choice down to a palatable size. Failing that, you can ask him to recommend something else. He’s been working at the restaurant since 1981 and estimates that he has served 700,000 bottles of wine in his twenty-eight year stay. The man arguably has a deeper knowledge of old wines, especially Burgundies, than anyone else in France.

I gave him a budget of E100 per bottle, modest by the standards of La Tour d’Argent, and asked him to choose a red and a white to partner the seven course tasting menu. His choices were as unpredictable as they were brilliant, matching the food to perfection. The 1985 Riesling Grand Cru Muenchberg, Lorentz (E95) and the 1985 Montus Prestige Madiran (E95) were delicious old wines, the first a dry Alsace Riesling of haunting restraint, the second a mature, Tannat-based red that’s as good as many a Classed Growth Bordeaux at three times the price.

It’s almost sacrilegious to say it, but the list could be improved. A few by the glass wines would help, although there are 1000 half bottles by way of compensation. I’d also like to see more information about the producers and vintages, even if you’d need a small crane to prize the resulting list off the table. Lastly, a handful of younger wines wouldn’t go amiss. Not everyone wants to drink six year old Sancerre.

But these are caveats. This is an amazing treasure trove of wines, priced fairly and sold with knowledge, passion and obvious enjoyment. If they gave Michelin stars for wine lists alone, La Tour d’Argent would have three.

La Tour d’Argent, 15 Quai de la Tournelle, 75006 Paris. Tel : 00 33 1 43 54 23 31

Number of wines: 450,000

By the glass: 2

Under E30: None

Over E100: 4000 plus wines

Best value: 1991 Volnay Pitures, Domaine Boillot at E125 per bottle

Worst value: 1982 Château Pétrus at E19,826 per bottle

Gluggability: *****

Expense account adjuster: *****

Sancerre index: Not applicable. No one else sells six year old Sancerre.

Originally published in Intelligent Life

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Restaurant La Tour d’Argent Review: Insights on its Fine Dining Experience

The restaurant’s dining room, located on the 6th floor, offers one of the most beautiful and romantic views of Paris, looking over Notre Dame. This place opened in 1582, and the King Henri the Third discovered the fork when he had dinner there. Frederic Delair, its owner under the Third Republic, created the famous “canard au sang” or “Canard Tour d’Argent” and decided that each duck would bear a number.

Nestled on the banks of the Seine River in Paris , La Tour d’Argent is a legendary French restaurant known for its sumptuous cuisine and unparalleled dining experience. With a history dating back to the 16th century, this prestigious establishment has earned its reputation through offering exceptional food, impeccable service, and an intimate atmosphere that keeps patrons returning for more.

Upon entering La Tour d’Argent, guests are immediately captivated by the stunning views of the restaurant’s location. Overlooking the Île Saint-Louis and Pont de la Tournelle , the setting provides a breathtaking backdrop for a Michelin-starred meal. As visitors settle into their seats, they are taken on a delectable culinary journey through expertly prepared French dishes, accompanied by an extensive wine list that rivals the finest cellars in the world.

The continued accolades and praise for La Tour d’Argent in reviews from reputable sources such as Condé Nast Traveler and Fodor’s stand as a testament to the restaurant’s dedication to maintaining its esteemed status. Both locals and travelers seeking a memorable dining experience will find that La Tour d’Argent truly delivers on its promise of exquisite cuisine and unparalleled service.

Table of Contents

History of La Tour d’Argent

Terrail family ownership, king henry iv and frédéric delair, world war ii and renovations, ambiance and decor, dining room and views, elevator and atmosphere, signature dishes, pressed duck, ratatouille, wine selection and sommelier, la tour d’argent’s wine cellar, menu and french cuisine, tasting menu, making a reservation, anniversary and special occasions, formal service and hospitality, reviews and accolades, frequently asked questions, what are the prices like at la tour d’argent, what is the dress code for la tour d’argent, is la tour d’argent currently open, what are the notable dishes at la tour d’argent besides pressed duck, what are some key highlights of their wine list, what is the history behind la tour d’argent’s long-standing reputation.

La Tour d’Argent is considered one of the oldest restaurants in Paris , claiming to have been founded in 1582. It was originally built as an inn in the 16th century and later became a renowned restaurant. Throughout its long history, the establishment has been under the ownership of the Terrail family.

The restaurant boasted having had King Henri IV among its frequent patrons. However, the documentation to support this claim is lacking. In the late 19th century, under the management of Frédéric Delair, La Tour d’Argent gained further prominence and prestige in the culinary world.

During World War II, the restaurant’s business was affected, but it persevered. Post-war renovations helped to modernize and improve the establishment, maintaining its prestigious reputation. Today, La Tour d’Argent serves its guests with a breathtaking panorama of Paris, overlooking the Seine, Notre-Dame, and Ile Saint-Louis.

La Tour d’Argent has a rich and storied history as a Parisian institution, captivating the imaginations of diners and visitors for centuries.

La Tour d’Argent is a truly captivating dining experience offering an elegant ambiance and remarkable views. The dining room, located on the 6th floor, boasts a sophisticated and classic French luxury design. From here, diners can enjoy an exquisite view of the city, including the iconic Notre Dame , the stunning Île Saint-Louis, and the beautiful Seine. The atmosphere in the dining room is refined, with well-spaced tables and good lighting, enabling guests to comfortably take in the breathtaking scenery.

Upon arrival at La Tour d’Argent, guests are greeted by a unique and impressive elevator that transports them to the 6th floor dining room. This historical touch adds a sense of grandeur to the overall experience. The restaurant’s atmosphere is enhanced by its rich culinary heritage, which dates back to 1582, and the attentive, knowledgeable staff that adds to the overall prestigious dining experience. The blend of tradition and contemporary charm found at La Tour d’Argent creates a memorable ambiance that perfectly complements its location along the Quai de la Tournelle.

See Related: Restaurant Le Djurdjura Nanterre

La Tour d’Argent is acclaimed for its signature dish, Pressed Duck . This exceptional dish offers guests a unique culinary experience and is steeped in history. The duck is roasted to perfection, imparting a rich, tender flavor to the meat. The highlight of this dish is the elaborate pressing technique used to extract juices from the carcass, which forms the base for a rich sauce. The restaurant has a long-standing tradition of presenting guests with a numbered certificate to commemorate their meal.

Another standout feature on La Tour d’Argent’s menu is the Fish . They offer a variety of expertly prepared fish dishes, showcasing the freshest, high-quality ingredients. The selection may vary depending on seasonality and availability, but guests can expect well-crafted dishes with exceptional flavors and textures. The restaurant’s chef presents a creative spin on traditional fish dishes, resulting in an unforgettable culinary experience that speaks to the establishment’s culinary heritage.

Lastly, the Ratatouille at La Tour d’Argent is a dish worth mentioning. This classic French dish is elevated by the skilled preparation and thoughtful presentation that the restaurant is known for. The dish combines fresh, seasonal vegetables in a perfectly seasoned and balanced manner, making it a delightful accompaniment to other dishes on the menu.

In conclusion, the signature dishes at La Tour d’Argent demonstrate the restaurant’s dedication to providing guests with a memorable dining experience that is both rooted in tradition and elevated by modern culinary expertise. The Pressed Duck, various Fish dishes, and Ratatouille stand out as exceptional offerings on their menu, each deserving of the praise they have received.

See Related: Le Tsuba Hotel

La Tour d’Argent’s wine list is highly renowned and an essential component of the overall dining experience. The restaurant’s wine cellar is a treasure trove for wine enthusiasts, boasting an astounding collection of 450,000 bottles . This extensive selection caters to a diverse range of tastes and preferences, offering something for everyone.

The sommelier at La Tour d’Argent plays a vital role in guiding guests through their wine journey. Offering expert advice and detailed explanations of each wine’s characteristics, the sommelier ensures that every diner finds the perfect bottle to complement their meal. Whether a guest prefers a complex red or a crisp white, the sommelier has the knowledge and expertise necessary to make an informed recommendation.

The wines stored in La Tour d’Argent’s wine cellar originate from various regions, allowing diners to enjoy vintages from famous wine-producing areas. With a particular focus on French wines, the cellar provides a delightful opportunity to explore the rich and nuanced flavors that have become synonymous with France’s esteemed wine culture.

In conclusion, the Wine Selection and Sommelier section of La Tour d’Argent is an integral aspect of the restaurant’s identity and success. With an exceptional wine list, an impressive wine cellar, and knowledgeable sommeliers to guide diners through their sensory experience, guests at La Tour d’Argent can expect a truly memorable and enjoyable evening.

See Related: Hôtel Acacias Etoile

The renowned restaurant La Tour d’Argent serves some of the finest French cuisine in the heart of Paris. The establishment has a rich history, and its culinary offerings showcase the best of French gastronomy, prepared by their talented chefs. The dining experience at La Tour d’Argent is made all the more memorable by its enchanting views of the Seine and Notre-Dame.

A highlight of La Tour d’Argent’s menu is their Tasting Menu, allowing guests to indulge in an extraordinary selection of dishes, showcasing the chef’s culinary prowess and the inn’s commitment to using high-quality ingredients. Each dish is meticulously presented, reflecting its elegance and impeccable taste. The Tasting Menu is ever-changing, designed to delight both regular patrons and newcomers by offering new and exquisite flavors.

On the Tasting Menu, you may find an array of beautifully crafted dishes, such as pan-seared foie gras, confit or roasted duck prepared in various ways, and delicate seafood masterpieces. The skillful use of seasonal produce ensures the freshness and vibrancy of each dish. The meal is further elevated by being accompanied by expertly chosen wines, perfectly complementing the flavors of each course.

At La Tour d’Argent, the French cuisine goes beyond just the Tasting Menu. They are also known for their classic pressed duck (canard à la presse), a signature dish that has helped define the restaurant’s reputation for excellence. This unique delicacy, which involves pressing the duck’s carcass to extract its rich juices, exemplifies the high level of skill and dedication that the chefs at La Tour d’Argent possess, ensuring a truly memorable dining experience for all who visit.

La Tour d’Argent, a prestigious restaurant in Paris, is an excellent choice for those celebrating an anniversary or any special occasion. To secure a table at this iconic establishment, making a reservation in advance is highly advisable. Reservations can be made through their website, ensuring a smooth process for guests.

The opulent setting of La Tour d’Argent offers an ideal backdrop for commemorating life’s significant milestones. Patrons can admire breathtaking city views while indulging in exquisite French cuisine expertly crafted by talented chefs. With its rich culinary history and distinguished wine list of over 300,000 bottles, this restaurant sets the stage for an unforgettable experience .

While making a reservation for your special celebration, be sure to inform the staff of any specific requests or considerations related to the nature of the occasion. This will enable them to accommodate your needs best and enhance your experience at La Tour d’Argent.

La Tour d’Argent is renowned for its formal service and hospitality. The experience begins as soon as guests step inside the establishment. The restaurant’s staff ensures that guests feel at home from the moment they arrive, making every effort to create a sense of comfort and belonging.

The waitstaff at La Tour d’Argent is professionally trained, offering impeccable service throughout the course of the meal. They are knowledgeable about the menu items and the restaurant’s extensive wine list, which includes a jaw-dropping collection of 300,000 bottles. Their expertise enables them to confidently guide diners in pairing the perfect wine with their chosen dishes.

In addition to ensuring that every detail of the dining experience meets the highest standards, the staff at La Tour d’Argent is skilled in the art of creating a personal connection with each guest. Their warm hospitality creates an atmosphere that allows diners to feel at ease while enjoying the exquisite dining experience.

The formal service at La Tour d’Argent is not only about providing the utmost in fine dining but also about preserving the restaurant’s storied history. The establishment dates back to 1582 and has hosted illustrious guests such as Edward VII, Charlie Chaplin, and Grace of Monaco. The staff’s dedication to upholding the restaurant’s legacy is evident in both their world-class service and their commitment to maintaining the timeless ambiance of the dining room.

Overall, the combination of elegant formality and welcoming hospitality that La Tour d’Argent offers makes dining at this Parisian institution a truly remarkable experience. The staff’s attention to detail, knowledge, and professionalism ensure that guests leave the restaurant with memories that will last a lifetime.

La Tour d’Argent, a renowned French restaurant located in Paris , has received numerous accolades and rave reviews from both experts and travelers. Offering a stunning view of the Seine, Pont de la Tournelle , and Île Saint-Louis, the restaurant has maintained a reputation for its superb cuisine and impeccable service.

Although the Michelin Star count of La Tour d’Argent currently stands at one, the prestigious culinary institution has held three stars in the past. The drop in stars has not, however, diminished guests’ enjoyment of the exquisite dishes served at this historic establishment.

The restaurant has become iconic for its specialty in canard à la presse (pressed duck), with the dish often mentioned in positive TripAdvisor reviews. Satisfied guests appreciate not only the culinary mastery of the chefs but also the historic ambience of the establishment while they feast on the sumptuous offerings.

Famous personalities, both in France and beyond, have frequented La Tour d’Argent throughout the years. Celebrities seeking an elite French dining experience have made this restaurant a preferred choice, further solidifying its status among the best establishments in Paris.

In summary, La Tour d’Argent continues to be celebrated for its outstanding French cuisine, excellent service, and rich history. Its one Michelin Star serves as a testament to the restaurant’s unwavering dedication to quality dining experiences, attracting both travelers and celebrities alike.

See Related: Restaurant Les Ambassadeurs

La Tour d’Argent is a high-end dining establishment whose prices reflect its Michelin-starred status. Expect to pay premium prices for a dining experience that combines culinary heritage, a vast wine selection, and unforgettable views of Paris.

Although there is no strict dress code at La Tour d’Argent, guests are encouraged to dress smartly for the sophisticated ambiance of the restaurant. Formal attire is not required, but it is recommended to wear smart-casual clothing to match the elegant surroundings.

As of June 24, 2023, La Tour d’Argent is open. The restaurant operates from 12:00 to 2:00 PM and 7:00 PM to 10:30 PM. It is always best to check their website or contact them directly for the most up-to-date information on their hours of operation.

While the pressed duck is the iconic dish at La Tour d’Argent, the restaurant offers a range of creative and sophisticated dishes that showcase French culinary techniques. Some other notable dishes include their pan-seared foie gras and lobster dishes and seasonal and locally sourced ingredients incorporated into the menu.

La Tour d’Argent is known for its extensive wine list, boasting a collection of over 300,000 bottles. The selection includes rare vintages and a broad spectrum of price points, catering to wine connoisseurs and those seeking an unforgettable dining experience.

La Tour d’Argent’s reputation as a culinary institution in Paris dates back to its founding in 1582. Over the centuries, the restaurant has maintained its high standards and innovative approach to French cuisine, resulting in a unique dining experience that combines history, culinary expertise, and breathtaking views of the city.

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La Tour d’Argent

• by Meg Zimbeck
• August 30, 2023 October 20, 2023

La Tour d’Argent is a 400 year-old restaurant with an exceptional view overlooking the Seine and Notre Dame. It reopened in 2023 after a long renovation, and we recently returned four our fourth visit and loved the experience. We’ve included La Tour d’Argent among our 50 favorite restaurants in Paris.

LA TOUR D’ARGENT

15, Quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Open Tuesday- Saturday for lunch & dinner Closed Sunday & Monday Reservations online or at +33 1 43 54 10 08

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OUR PHOTOS OF LA TOUR D’ARGENT

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• Wine Spectator (2016) a profile of the history of La Tour d’Argent and its young leader André Terrail

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the wine list!! - Tour d'Argent

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“the wine list!!” Review of Tour d'Argent

Came for lunch. Wine list is about 6 inches thick! Found portions to big. Could not finish the 2 scoops of foie gras as a starter. Then had the sole in a lobster bisque sauce. Shared a crepe for dessert. Nothing that memorable.Service and ambiance is commensurate to the price! Enjoy the Notre Dame view.

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In comparison to other top Paris restaurants we visited last month, La Tour d'Argent was the least impressive both in food and service. We ordered a pressed duck asked for it medium rare and it came out gamey and chewy at a very high cost. The staff were very stiff and seemed either unhappy and nervous based on how management interact with them -- or simply stuffy and pretentious. The views of the Seine and Notre Dame were certainly a sight to behold - but in comparison to restaurants such as Taillevent, Lasserre and Grand Vefour, they simply did not compare in service or food quality.

We went to La Tour d'Argent on March 31th this year for lunch, with my niece and my husband's two kids (aged from 18 to 25) to give them an experience of a life time! And we don't regret spending so much on the most amazing food and wine. We admit to being foodies and we love great wine. In this restaurant you can afford to choose the best wine! The "kids" were impressed from the very beginning entering the restaurant to the end. Impeccable and friendly service, and the greatest view! A place to go for the once in a life time experience!!

But definitely worth it ,.I started vising Paris backs in the fifties and have probably been there at least 30 times since. My father who was a Pairsian by birth always talked about La Tour in rather histhed and reverential terms. It was somewhere i always wantedt to visit and could never really afford , then on my 70th birthday my wonderful wife said she would treat me. From the moment we arrived at the front door, we new this was something special. After the doorman opened the door a major domo character greeted us personally, by name and passed us on to another" flunky"- who guided us to the lift. The resturant on the sixth floor is straight out of the belle epoque- exactly as you've seen in a dozen french moves is-ornate, to just this side of ostentatious. With enormous windows looking out on to the River Seine and probably themost romantic view in city-the floodlit Notre Dame cathederal- You couldnt be anywhere but Paris The service as you would expect was faultless, but extremely friendly and not the least bit patronising or aloof. The head waiter carefully took us through the menu . The speciality of the house is duck,cooked and served in the traditonal 19th century way - comes as two courses . We chose the fixed price menu at "only"190 euros a head- and evrything that we eat was truly wonderful. When the sommeleir approaches with the wine list , it is the size of an old fashioned telephone directory- with prices ranging from 100 euros upwards- we had a modest bottle of 1952 Puligny Montrachet at around 200 euros- It was like nectar! When booking they asked for any notes and had mentioned this was a birthday treat and to my surprise the meal ended with a tiny birthdaycake- and dont worry no one sang "happy birthday" But it was a fantatsic treat and highly recommended- Tips -ask for a window table -go for lunch when the fixed price is only 90euros!-before leaving spend a few minutes looking round the ground floor slaon, which is full of history. You wont regret this, once in a lifetime experience.

My husband and I had lunch at this restaurant a few days a go and we haven't stopped talking about the culinary experience because it exceeded our expectation. We travel and dine out a lot and this restaurant was on our list. From the minute we stepped into the building until we left, We felt special, service is impeccable, the restaurant is beautiful and the view is breathtaking. Everything we tasted was cooked to perfection, Totally refined. Sometimes you go to this type of restaurants and the service is excellent but the food is average or the other way round. At this restaurant, you definitely get what you pay for, this is traditional french cooking at its best, I don't think you can go wrong with whatever you order. We started we a glass of champagne and then ordered half a bottle of wine, We probably should have just ordered a bottle of champagne, the wine list is incredible My husband ordered duck and I had Noix de Saint-Jacques rôties (scallops). Both were excellent..... It was a great afternoon. No regrets, worth every penny and We will definitely return.

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La Tour D'Argent

Chris Stang

December 12, 2016

According to a good friend and wine expert - a real one, not just a person who drinks a lot of wine - La Tour d’Argent has the best wine cellar in the world. As in almost 500,000 bottles. They’re also famous for their pressed duck, which comes with a certificate if you buy it, like a vintage watch, or a house. This certainly won’t be a cheap meal in Paris, but if you want to go big and drink some incredible wines for the money, there’s no better place to do it.

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Tour d'Argent

• 15 quai de la Tournelle, Paris, 75005, France
• €€€€ · Modern Cuisine

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Michelin guide’s point of view.

Established in 1582, this elegant restaurant on the banks of the Seine gained a new floor in the early 20C, and with it one of the best views of Paris's emblematic river and Notre Dame! Tour d'Argent has continued to move with the times: on the ground floor is the Bar des Maillets d'Argent – which harks back to 1930s Britain – with its snack menu and daily specials. The restaurant menu, revamped by chef and Meilleur Ouvrier de France Yannick Franques, draws on the neo-Classical heritage of several decades of French haute cuisine (with a particular emphasis on sauces); the perfectly honed service is as spectacular as ever. As for the extraordinary wine cellar, it is home to over 300 000 bottles. Above the restaurant, a new roof terrace is the ideal spot for a cocktail on a weekday evening or weekend afternoon.

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• Air conditioning
• Interesting wine list
• Restaurant offering vegetarian menus
• Valet parking
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WINE FOR SOUL

Tagged: la tour d’argent wine cellar, wine cellars, part 2 – the big boys.

After my intro with two modest private wine cellars from the previous post, a visit with the big guns.  My three top wine cellars around the world. One from Paris France, the other in London, England and the last one representing The Americas a wine cellar in the Bahamas with close ties to Italy (the owner’s Homeland)

  E’ videmment we start with Good old PARIS

La Tour D’argent cellar

You cannot select a wine from such a comprehensive list just by a quick glance at the list. Careful reading would literally take HOURS! It details a wine selection from the 18th and 19th centuries to date and is the best wine list I have had the chance to lay my eyes upon in France, or anywhere else in the world. If you look carefully you can also find inexpensive gems such as the 2 wines we chose for our Lunch (before visiting the cellar), but we had the chance and time to select the wines well in advance at Yair’s flat which lies one floor beneath the restaurant, how convenient! They were 1986 Domaine Francois Raveneau Butteaux, Chablis Premier Cru, a 25 year old Chablis with all the fruit and acidity to keep the wine afresh yet with complexity that has developed within the wine, to equal white wines from grand cru lots around Bourgogne in the south.

The Red was:  1990 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas: Medium bodied brownish red, brick color, with notes of sweet red and black fruits, some sweet dried plums and figs and a wonderful earthy smell of wet mushrooms, still retaining nice acidity, vigor and a long finish. We were told it was the very last bottle of its kind in the cellar, mixed feelings from the sommelier of happiness for us a “sad” moment for a 21 year old chapter closed as the bottle was opened… Incidently I had The Quenelles de brochet “Andre’ Terrail” (Pike dumplings) baked (gratine’) in sauce Mornay, and grated cheese, fluffy light sublime. and the legendary Roasted Duckling for main course, The two Flag dishes of the restaurant.

After our perfect Lunch with my good friend Yair Haidu (who lives one floor under the restaurant) arranges a tour for us in the cellar, and the photos speak for themselves.

  La tour d’argent : 

Berry Bros. & Rudd Wine cellar

BBR are the oldest wine and spirit merchant in England, having traded from the same shop for over 300 years. The business was officially established in 1698 by the Widow Bourne at 3 St James’s Street in London, opposite St James’s Palace. At first the company was selling mainly overseas provisions: exotic spices, tea and coffee, around 1760 after entering the business of fines wines and quality Scotch whisky, Berrys are appointed ast suppliers of wine to the British Royal Family during the reign of King George III (1760-1820) and has continued to do so to the present day. The first Royal Warrant (seal) was awarded in 1903 by King Edward 7 th and today they hold two Royal Warrants for H.M. The Queen and H.R.H. The Prince of Wales.

In addition to the Finest Reserves Room, hidden beneath Berry Bros. & Rudd’s historic wine shop are the Georgian vaulted cellars which date back over 300 years, and hold around 20,000 bottles of wine, Simon Berry believes there’s a passage, (now blocked by wine racks and plastered brick work), that leads from this room to St James’ Palace (southbound across the Mall).

The company holds in their wine cellars rare wines for sale and export.  Red Bordeaux wines, dating back to 1860, Tokaji Essencia dating from 1870 and later, fine wines and port and spirits dating back to the turn of the 19 th century 1820 to date including all the “Important” Vintages of the 20 th century of all existing wine, all tucked in behind iron gates to all the underground nooks and crannies.

Back in 1998, when I asked the Simon Berry direct descendent to the founders of the store, what are the special bottles he would select from the vast collection in the company cellars, he found it hard to answer, but gave me  two stories he believes would give a fitting image to his special and wise approach to his fine wine collection : ” I believe that in most cases, it is not the wine itself but rather the event and company for which a certain wine is opened. To celebrate our 300 Jubilee we invited for lunch eighty Chateaux Owners, with whom BBR had working relations relations for centuries, here at No. 3 St. James’s we served:

Chateau Langoa Barton Saint Julien 1982 , Chateau Cos d’Estournel Saint Estephe  1970, Chateau Haut Brion Pessac Leognan  1961, and Porto Quinta do Noval Nacional.1954 (“the last 2 receiving prolonged applauses from the all attending”).

The second story Yesterday we invited for lunch one of our most veteran of Berry customer (since 1935) enabling us to give him the first wine ordeal from us In 1935, the Chateau Margaux 1926 we have it now only in half bottles, and  although the wine is already old and tired, it was still a great way to celebrate our long-lasting relations .

The building of the palace laid the foundations for the development of the entire area and by 1662 Henry Jermyn had begun his ambitious building programme, starting with St James’s Square. A small row of houses had been built along the eastern side of what is now St James’s Street and it was in number three that a lady we know as ‘the Widow Bourne’ lived. (from BBR site)

In 1698 the Widow Bourne she set up business at number three, buying the famous coffee scales and the mill – that are still in the shop today. There’s a leather bound book complete with records of customers’ weights spanning three centuries.

  Berry Bros & Rudd : ADDRESS: 3 St James’s Street, St James’s, London SW1A 1EG. TELEPHONE: 0870 900 4300

Graycliff Hotel , Restaurant

Graycliff’s Wine Cellar is world renowned. The wine list has won the Wine Spectator’s best wine list, Grand Award since 1988. The wine cellar has an inventory of over 250,000 bottles of fine wine from 15 different countries.

Graycliff’s wine list and cellar receives The Grand Award Restaurant Wine List since1988. This award is given to restaurants that show an uncompromising, passionate devotion to the quality of their wine list and inventory.

There is a Vertical collection of most of Chateau D’Yquem wines from the 1875 vintage on to the present days. (A somehow “must” for a cellar of this caliber)

It was New Years Eve of 1996 as we sat down we were served a champagne cocktail made from 1976 Dom Perignon champagne and 50 years old cognac. On New year’s eve they stop at nothing to make this occasion / Bahamas Junkanoo a feast to remember. We take the 80 page wine list (it’s 125 pages long now) and sit by the pool to choose our wines. With list like that this is not an ordinary matter.

There are Chateau Latour 1911, Haut Brion 1924 50 vintages of Lafite, 1858 Chateau Gruaud Larose and others all at thousands of $ a bottle. We opted for white we chose the Francois Raveneau Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 1976 which was so delicious and fresh at 20 years of age. The color is golden yellow, without its greenish hints of youth Refined nose with flavours of ripe peach and apricots, preserved lemon or orange peel and honey, with floral touch of lily and freesia  On the day, a wine of incomparable quality and finess. A great wine, perhaps the one most able to express what the terroir of Chablis really is.

The Foie gras came with a glass of Chateau Rieussec Sauternes 1975 which was a divine, Nectar of Botrytized honey and iced orange peel.

To wrap it all up we celebrated the countdown to the new year with a glass of 1976 Dom Perignon champagne .

We did not go out for the Jankanoo (Local fancy dress Carnival) it came in to us and with it each and every guest was rolled on site his very own cigar different cigars and flavours for different guests, this certainly called for our very last lavish move we ordered Armagnac’s from 4 different Vintages 1896,1918,1928 1934 what a joy of smoothness and subtlety.

Thanks Enrico, the Garzaroli Family, Husdon Clarke, Willie Armstrong, and all at Graycliff.

Graycliff Hotel , Restaurant & Cigar Company   8-12 West Hill Street Nassau Bahamas  West Hill St, Nassau N 10246, Bahamas (242) 302-9150

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Interview: David Ridgway, La Tour d’Argent

Words by Barnaby Eales

Photography by Thomas Renaut

David Ridgway, head sommelier and wine buyer at La Tour d’Argent in Paris, has spent more than 35 years transforming the legendary restaurant’s cellar into a veritable library of the finest French wines.

Home to 300,000 bottles, the cellar includes up to 40 vintages of the greatest wines of France. Prices range from €60 for entry-level wines to €20,000 for wines like 1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and 1982 Pétrus. The rarest and most expensive wines, held on the cellar’s first floor, are protected by wrought iron gates and walls reinforced with battleship-grade steel.

The cellar temperature is controlled to within half a degree: 13 ° C in summer and 11.5 ° C in winter, allowing wines to mature at the optimal rate, and providing Ridgway (whose office is in the centre of the cellar) with the cool head he needs for making decisions on his annual wine buying budget of €1m.

You once described La Tour d’Argent’s cellar as a paradise of wine, saying you would never wish to work elsewhere. What have you enjoyed most about your 38 years there?

There is the beauty of tasting the finest wines on earth, of tasting the wines that you have laid down for 15 or 20 years. I have tasted the last 40 vintages of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti . They imbue you with a unique feeling of wellbeing; they transport you to a higher plain. At vineyards in Burgundy and elsewhere, I have developed relationships with three generations of vintners.

Earning the respect of customers and winemakers is very rewarding, as is the constant sharing of opinions with chefs at the restaurant. This combination, together with the exceptional view of the Seine and Notre Dame, has created a unique atmosphere at La Tour d’Argent.

You expanded La Tour d’Argent’s wine list from 100 pages with 1,000 wines in 1981, to today’s 400 pages with 15,000 wines. How have buying decisions changed of late?

I like to spend money. It is always been a bit of a problem, discussing budgets with the accountants and the restaurant owner, but now we are buying less as customers are drinking less. In Paris, we sell a maximum of 15,000 bottles a year in the restaurant, which, on average, represents close to a quarter of a bottle per person per meal. 75% of reservations are now for two people, many of whom order wine by the glass.

Customers now have a tendency to drink younger wines. We buy up to five or ten cases directly from about 40 to 50 producers. Buying wine on allocation from producers now means that if you don’t buy one year, the wines may not be available to buy the following year. The very high prices of the most recent Burgundy and Bordeaux vintages make buying them more difficult, but you can still find a Bruno Clair for €180 a bottle, for example, which shows how some red Burgundy can be relatively cheap, considering its rareness and quality.

What are customers at La Tour d’Argent drinking?

We are selling more red Burgundy than ever, but less white Burgundy. In the restaurant, most people ask for Burgundy, the Rhône and the Loire Valley.

Which celebrities or heads of state have you served there?

Mick Jagger, Prince, Robert De Niro and Dustin Hoffman, to name but a few. Woody Allen has a keen interest and knowledge in wine; his taste has evolved from Bordeaux to Burgundy over time. Elton John, who ordered a bottle of Louis Roederer’s Cristal , was extremely charming. In just one week, we had a visit from Bill Clinton, who drank a 1988 Château Margaux, and from Boris Yeltsin, who drank a 1990 Chambertin Clos de Beze. Of the two, Yeltsin drank the most.

In just one week, we had a visit from Bill Clinton and from Boris Yeltsin. Of the two, Yeltsin drank the most

Some French sommeliers complain that restaurants in Paris mark up wine by as much as five or six times the buying price…

Managing prices is a difficult daily task. We try to keep prices down, but it’s hard to explain why we are selling wine cheaper than they could be sold at auction. Some customers ask to buy a case of wine to take home with them, but I know it’s not to drink themselves – it’s to sell them on at higher prices.

I gather there was an accident with an 1811 Chateau Lafite Rothschild, which was once the oldest wine in La Tour d’Argent cellar. What happened?

A cellar assistant was up a stepladder and knocked the bottle to the ground, smashing it. He didn’t  have to pay for the wine, but I had great difficulty explaining the damage to Claude Terrail [Tour d’Argent’s then owner]. The 1811 vintage from the Year of the Great Comet was known to be a wine of exceptional quality. I daren’t think what it was worth [so-called Comet Vintages occur after comets are seen and in winemaking lore are reckoned always to be exceptional: 1811 is one of the most legendary. In 2007 a bottle of 1811 Lafite fetched €36,000 at Christie’s Los Angeles].

You joined La Tour d’Argent in 1981 after moving to France from Britain .  The management initially kept it quiet that you were British. Having now lived in France longer than in Britain, do you feel more French or British?

Until now, I never really wanted to obtain French nationality. There was no need. But now [with Brexit] I am dying to do so, but it has become a very lengthy process because so many people are applying for French nationality.

The word is that you are about to retire. Is this true?

I no longer do the restaurant service – I am rather bored of people spending the whole evening on their smartphones rather than talking to each other – however, there is no date set for my retirement.

If you had to choose five favourite wines and their vintages what would they be?

The pleasure of wine lies in its diversity. Choosing wines depends on what you are eating, your mood, where you are, how you feel and the atmosphere. If I had to, I would choose reds or whites from my go-to region, such as the 1985 vintage Côte de Beaune in Burgundy. Any Champagne from the Grand Cru villages of Chouilly and Cramant, aged 10 years in the bottle, would be marvellous. As Claude Terrail always said: ‘There is no party without Champagne.’

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La Tour d'Argent Paris

Many diners visit the restaurant just for its wine list. What is impressive is the way in which the wines are kept. The cellar has the best temperature regulation in the whole of Paris. Stéphane Trapier, a second assistant head sommelier said: “ We keep the wines under a very low temperature so they age slower than is usual. Therefore, the vintages you get here have a unique taste.”

Misleading reviews

The signature dish

Famous diners

Historical bottles

The bible of wine lists

Once the wine list was in front of my eyes I couldn’t get my hands off of it. Nervous sommeliers must have been thinking that I found a new religion as I turned page by page of this massive book and studied all of its contents. It is strong on Burgundies. Treasures like Chambertin 1865 and Romanée 1874 may be well pass their peak, but they have an enormous value if you imagine that these vintages could have been drunk by Alexander II, Czar of All the Russias, or by F. D. Roosevelt, who both wined and dined here. The choice of Bordeaux doesn’t stand behind as you can find the strongest vintages such as 1982 or 1990 in most of the best Chateaux found there. 

It is not just about wines

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Mystery surrounds disappearance of £1.3m of wine from paris restaurant.

The latest inventory of the cellar of Paris’ historic La Tour d’Argent has revealed that 83 bottles of wine, including Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, have inexplicably vanished.

La Tour d’Argent’s history supposedly stretches back to the 1582 and the reign of Henry III of France when an inn was opened with a tower made from silvery-hued stone from the Champagne region (hence the name). In the years prior to the French Revolution it would become one of the country’s first fine dining spots. In 1911 it would be bought by André Terrail, whose grandson, also called André, is in charge today.

When the historic eatery Café Anglais closed in 1913, the following year its contents were relocated to La Tour d’Argent. Today the latter holds some incredibly precious wines, including 1870 vintages of Château Gruaud-Larose and Clos de Vougeot , saved from the German invasion in 1940 when Claude Terrail, the current owner’s father, walled up the cellar. There are also supposedly bottles from the 18th century, pre-dating the Revolution.

Now under head sommelier Victor Gonzalez, today the cellar contains approximately 320,000 bottles (the list is so heavy, around 8 kilograms, that it is wheeled out to diners on a trolley). However, a small but noticeable dent has been made in that number, and no one seems to know how.

Some of the most valuable ones have gone missing since the last inventory was taken in January 2020, as reported by local media outlet Le Parisien – and no break-in was reported in the intervening four years. On 25 January this year a complaint was lodged by the restaurant manager concerning the absence of what is estimated to be €1.5 million (£1.3m) worth of rare wine, and the Third Division of the Paris Judicial Police is now investigating what could have happened to the bottles.

As well as the disappearing Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, other Burgundy Grands Crus were also reported missing, though a full list of what bottles and vintages have actually gone is yet to be revealed.

Related reading:

Mexican beauty queen arrested in connection with wine ‘theft of the century’

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Paris restaurant La Tour d’Argent ‘loses’ more than £1.25m worth of wine

The one-star Michelin restaurant sits on the banks of the Seine and boasts sweeping views of Notre-Dame Cathedral.

La Tour d’Argent, which provided the inspiration for the film Ratatouille , is renowned for having one of the world’s greatest wine cellars.

The tightly-guarded cellar is home to more than 300,000 bottles, and the collection’s worth has been conservatively estimated at £24m.

Staff recently conducted their first inventory since January 2020, and they discovered that 83 bottles had vanished.

They could have gone missing at any time during the past four years, a sommelier at the 422-year-old restaurant told Le Parisien .

Prestigious wines from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti are among those missing, according to the sommelier.

La Tour d’Argent has filed a complaint to the French police. No evidence of a break-in was discovered but the Third Division of the Paris Judicial Police is investigating the disappearance of the wines.

The restaurant has been an icon of Paris ever since it was founded in 1582. It was frequented by King Henry IV, and it has gone on to welcome famous diners from around the world.

Queen Elizabeth II was the guest of honour in 1948. Other famous visitors include Theodore Roosevelt, Charlie Chaplin and Bill Clinton.

Guests will see pictures of the famous diners when riding the elevator up to the restaurant, which is located on the sixth floor of the Quai de la Tournelle in Paris’ 5th arrondissement.

The wine list is an enormous book, which is so heavy that it needs to be wheeled out on a cart to each table. It specialises in old wines, with vintages dating back to the late 19th century, and it houses back vintages of almost every top wine from Burgundy , Bordeaux , the Rhône , Alsace and the Loire .

La Tour d’Argent is also famous for late owner Claude Terrail’s quick thinking in 1940, when he hid his most prized bottles behind a fake wall as the Nazis prepared to seize the restaurant.

Yet for many people around the world, the restaurant is primarily known as the inspiration for the hit Pixar animated film Ratatouille , in which a young rat with heightened senses of taste and smell takes over the kitchen and wows Parisian society with his culinary creations.

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Srn member links, thieves steal $1.63 million in wines from legendary paris restaurant la tour d’argent.

More than 80 rare bottles went missing from the Grand Award winner’s cellar, perhaps during recent renovations

• Suzanne Mustacich

The owners of La Tour d'Argent , the legendary Parisian restaurant and Wine Spectator Grand Award winner, filed a complaint with police last week following an inventory taken of their extensive wine collection. More than 80 bottles, worth $1.63 million (€1.5 million), are missing from the cellar, including bottles from Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanée-Conti . There were no signs of forced entry.

The theft came to light following an extensive renovation, when the restaurant was closed, between April 2022 and September 2023. The 83 missing wines were taken sometime between 2020 and January 2024, when the most recent audit of the cellar was conducted.

La Tour d'Argent is synonymous with French gastronomy. Located on the Seine at 15 Quai de la Tournelle, the restaurant is known for a stupendous view of the river and Notre Dame Cathedral from the sixth-floor dining room. The atmospheric wine cellar, two floors underground, houses some 300,000 bottles totaling an estimated $27 million.

La Tour d'Argent’s long history begins in 1582, when it first opened as an inn where King Henry III's nobility could dine. The restaurant soon was among the most fashionable places to eat in Europe.

It was rebuilt after the French Revolution. During the Paris Universal Exhibition of 1867, when countries showcased their finest inventions and products, Russian Czar Alexander II, the future Czar Alexander III, King Wilhelm I of Prussia and Prince Otto von Bismarck dined at the same table. In the 1930s, the building took the shape it has today, when the owners moved the kitchen and dining room upstairs to take advantage of the breathtaking views. During the Nazi occupation of Paris in 1940, the restaurant's then-owner hid his most prized wines behind a fake wall.

Normally, the wine cellar is under tight security. The bottles are numbered, making resale on the open market difficult. In recent years, though, several top restaurants have been struck by knowledgeable wine thieves , who are suspected of selling to private collectors.

Stay on top of important wine stories with Wine Spectator s free Breaking News Alerts .

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The Paris institution has reopened after a wide-ranging renovation led by André Terrail, whose family has owned the restaurant for more than a century.

Paris Bureau Chief

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La Tour d’Argent, the Paris institution known for its pressed duck and spectacular views of the Seine, has had a makeover.

The restaurant, which traces its roots back to the 16th century, reopened on Aug. 29 after a 17-month renovation, marking its most wide-ranging overhaul since the dining room was moved to the sixth floor of the building in 1936.

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In an effort to make the venerable eatery more welcoming to locals, Terrail has added a ground-floor bar and a rooftop terrace, while out-of-town guests can rent a full apartment on the fifth floor.

“The Tour d’Argent before it closed was already a great experience, but now we’re taking it to the next level,” he says during an interview in his office as workers put the finishing touches to the building.

Tweaking an icon is always a delicate exercise. For Terrail, who was only 26 when he took over in 2006 from his father Claude, it means honoring the family legacy while taking bold steps to propel the restaurant into the 21st century. Chief among them: opening the kitchen headed by chef Yannick Franques.

“It’s a very big decision, but it’s consistent with who we are, because La Tour d’Argent has always been a theater. That’s how my father saw it. It was his stage. He always wanted to be an actor, so opening the kitchen to show the cooks perform makes sense,” he says.

Indeed, with its breathtaking panorama of Paris, ballet of waiters, 400-page wine list and elaborate duck carving ceremony — which involves lifting the bird with a fork without allowing it to touch the platter — the main dining room already provides plenty of entertainment.     

But with a lunch menu at 150 euros, and dinner menus starting at 360 euros, the Michelin-starred restaurant has always been reserved for the happy few. In the spirit of opening its doors to a broader crowd, the family acquired the nearby Rôtisserie d’Argent in 1989 and also runs an adjoining bakery, gourmet grocery and even an ice cream truck in summer.

With the new downstairs bar, named Maillets d’Argent after his father’s former polo team, and Le Toit de la Tour, serving Champagne and cocktails on the roof, Terrail hopes to create a neighborhood haunt with a laid-back, festive atmosphere.

Terrail has decorated the downstairs bar with wood paneling and opened its windows onto the street. On a sweltering afternoon, he personally hauled an armchair into its cozy annex, which features a chimneyplace and an array of vintage or specially commissioned furniture.

“This is my idea of a dream bar,” he enthuses. “To have a little club sandwich in the afternoon and to sit in front of a roaring fire with a glass of white wine specially selected by our head sommelier Victor González — that’s paradise on earth.”

Still, exclusivity remains at the core of the offering. The 1,600-square-foot guest suite is named after Terrail’s grandmother Augusta Burdel, who used to live on the premises, and features a dining table for private entertaining, a bedroom and a sauna — the latter a nod to Tarja Räsänen, the owner’s Finnish mother.  

As might be expected, the price is available on demand. Terrail notes that his grandfather, also named André, was a famed hotelier who founded the Georges V in Paris and headed an empire that also included the Bellman and San Régis hotels, as well as caterer Potel et Chabot.

“So in a way, it’s a return to the family roots,” he says. “It’s a way of broadening the experience well beyond the gastronomic event.”

Terrail has been paving the way for the transformation for the last decade.

In 2016, he raised more than 725,000 euros by selling off some of the contents of the restaurant and its legendary wine cellar at auction house Artcurial. A silver-plated duck press, used to prepare the signature Caneton Frédéric Delair, named after the 19th century chef who invented the recipe, went for more than 40,000 euros, more than six times its high estimate.

Terrail sees himself as a custodian of the family’s heritage.

“I was thrust into the business by my father,” he says. “In the beginning, I felt it was important to be humble toward this house. I needed some time to understand it and to make it my own, even if I’ve lived here my whole life. My 40s felt like the right age, the right moment, to start to shake things up and take some risks.”   

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Ready, Set, Garçon! Paris Waiters Race as Storied Contest Returns

Contestants rushed through the streets with croissant-laden trays in a moment for the French capital to showcase its cafe culture ahead of the Summer Olympics.

By Aurelien Breeden

Aurelien Breeden reported from the waiters’ race in Paris. Although he carried only a notepad and pen, he struggled to keep pace.

The contestants warmed up with stretches and squats in front of City Hall, carefully repositioned croissants and glasses on their trays and tightened their aprons as pop music blared from loudspeakers.

Then, they were off.

On Sunday, for the first time in over a decade, Paris revived a tradition: an annual race of cafe and restaurant waiters. About 200 men and women swerved, jostled and jogged 1.2 miles through the city streets, which were lined with cheering crowds. The rules were simple: No running, and reach the finish line with laden trays intact with a croissant, a glass of tap water and a small coffee cup.

The race, which was first held in the early 20th century, had been on hiatus since 2012 because of a lack of funding. But Paris officials saw an opportunity for the city to shine before hosting the Summer Olympics, which kick off in July. It was also a moment to illustrate that sipping coffee at a cafe or wine in a bistro was as integral to the capital’s cultural heritage as its most famous landmarks.

“When foreigners come to Paris, they don’t just come for the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower,” said Nicolas Bonnet-Oulaldj, the deputy mayor in charge of commerce. “They also come to eat in our cafes, at the Bouillon Chartier, the Brasserie Lipp or the Procope.”

Paris was home to more than 15,000 bars, cafes and restaurants last year, according to city statistics , fueling a lively, sit-down-and-take-in-the-scene kind of culture that has held strong despite the coronavirus pandemic and concerns over inflation and worker shortages .

“It’s a French way of life, and a Parisian way of life,” Mr. Bonnet-Oulaldj said.

Ahead of the race, waiters used safety pins to fasten numbered bibs to their clothes. Those from the city’s best known establishments were treated almost like star athletes before a big game.

Cameras and onlookers converged on No. 207, representing Les Deux Magots, the iconic cafe frequented by intellectuals and writers like Simone de Beauvoir and James Baldwin ; and No. 182, representing La Tour d’Argent , a renowned restaurant with stunning views of the Seine River.

Others were just happy to be there.

“It’s great to all run together,” said Fabrice Di Folco, 50, a waiter at Chez Savy, near the Champs-Élysées, who was racing for the first time. Like many others, Mr. Di Folco said he had not trained specifically for the competition — his day job was preparation enough.

Apprentices raced separately from veterans, and men and women competed together but were ranked separately. The top three contestants in each category won prizes such as four-star hotel stays and fancy restaurant meals. The first finishers in each category also clinched coveted tickets to the Olympics opening ceremony.

While the race is nominally for waiters, it was open to almost anyone who works in the service industry: cafes, restaurants, hotels, even the British ambassador’s residence.

Adam David, 22, an under butler at the residence, was wearing a green tartan vest as he waited for the race to start. “I keep saying I’m going to win,” he said jokingly. But, he added, “I’m trying not to create a diplomatic incident.”

Starting at Paris City Hall, the competitors headed to the Centre Pompidou, then wound their way through the narrow streets of the Marais, the capital’s old Jewish quarter, before looping back to the starting point. Television crews and fans ran alongside them, like at the Tour de France, as onlookers clapped and shouted encouragement.

The more competitive waiters forged ahead with an intense, almost harried power walk. Most finished in 13 to 20 minutes.

“It felt long,” said Anne-Sophie Jelic, 40. “But the crowd was great.”

She wore bright red lipstick and laced-up shoes that matched the color of her cafe’s awning. The daughter of a cook and pastry chef, Ms. Jelic said she remembered hearing about the waiters’ race when she was growing up in the rural Eure-et-Loir area, west of Paris.

Ms. Jelic moved to Paris to earn a master’s degree in art history and archaeology and waited tables on the side. She said she loved it so much that she switched tracks. She and her husband, who own Café Dalayrac, in the Second Arrondissement, competed on Sunday.

“We aren’t in it for the prizes,” Ms. Jelic said before the race. But she came in second in her category, winning a meal at the Tour d’Argent.

At the finish line, judges checked the “integrity” of the contestants’ trays. Any glass of water below a 10-centimeter gauge line inflicted a 30-second penalty. Empty glass? That’ll be one minute. Broken dishes? Two minutes. Something missing? Three. Lost your platter? Disqualified.

Carrying the tray with both hands was also banned, but not switching from left to right.

“The problem is that I can’t switch out my legs,” said Théo Roscian, a young apprentice waiter at Francette, a restaurant on a barge near the Eiffel Tower, as he huffed along the racecourse.

A bit of water that was sloshing precariously in Mr. Roscian’s glass spilled out. He swore.

While it is unclear exactly when the tradition started, most date the first “ course des garçons de cafe ” to 1914. For decades, it was sponsored by L’Auvergnat de Paris, a weekly newspaper named after migrants from the Auvergne region in central France who came to the capital, many of them becoming bistro and cafe owners.

This year’s competition was sponsored by the city’s public water utility, which said that cafe habits like serving coffee with a glass or carafe of tap water with a meal made those establishments key allies in the effort to reduce plastic consumption.

The cafe and restaurant industry welcomed the revival.

Marcel Bénézet, the president of the cafe, bar and restaurant branch of the Groupement des Hôtelleries et Restaurations de France, a service industry trade group, said Paris had faced a string of crises over the past decade that harmed businesses: terrorist attacks, violent protests , Covid-19 lockdowns and rising inflation.

“It’s important to showcase our profession,” said Mr. Bénézet, who competed in the race. “A lot goes on in Parisian cafes,” he said, citing love, friendships, business deals and revolutions as examples.

Historically, waiters competed in classic attire: white jacket, black bow tie and formal dress shoes. The contestants on Sunday had a dress code that included a traditional apron, but modern concessions were made, such as the ability to traverse Paris cobblestones in sneakers.

André Duval, 75, a retired maître d’hôtel who wore a big red bow tie, said he remembered the days when waiters ferried wine — not water — across the finish line. “It’s too bad that it wasn’t as long as it used to be,” he added. Some of the previous waiters’ races extended over five miles.

One onlooker, Renée Ozburn, 72, a writer and retired judge, said the contest embodied the French capital’s unique energy.

“It’s one of those ‘only in Paris’ kind of things,” she said.

Aurelien Breeden is a reporter for The Times in Paris, covering news from France. More about Aurelien Breeden